Part 16

As an article of luxury for the table the Edible frogs are in great request in France, Germany, and other countries of the Continent. They are generally caught, in the autumn, by rakes with long close-set teeth, by nets, and in numerous other ways. Some persons amuse themselves by catching them with lines and hooks baited with insects or worms. At this season they are collected in thousands, and sold to the wholesale dealers, who have large conservatories for them. These are holes dug in the ground, to the depth of four or five feet, covered at the mouth with a board, and over this, in winter, with straw. We are informed, by Dr. Townson that at Vienna, in the year 1793, there were only three great dealers in frogs; by whom most of those persons were supplied who carried them to the markets for sale.

The parts that are eaten are chiefly the hind quarters.

196. In America the species called _BULL-FROGS_, which sometimes measure eighteen inches and upwards in length, from the nose to the hind feet, are not unfrequently adopted as food.

197. _The CROCODILE and ALLIGATOR_ (Lacerta crocodilus _and_ alligator) _are two immense animals of the lizard tribe, the principal distinction between which is founded on the head and part of the neck of the former being more smooth than those of the latter; and in the snout being proportionally more wide and flat, as well as more rounded at the extremity._

_The length of the crocodile, when full grown, is from eighteen to about twenty-five feet; and that of the alligator somewhat less. Crocodiles are chiefly found in the river Nile; and alligators in rivers and lakes of some parts of America._

The _flesh_ of both these animals has a strong, unpleasant, and somewhat musky flavour; yet it is eaten by the natives of most of the countries in which they are found. It is white and juicy; and the parts that are preferred are those about the belly and tail. The flesh of the young ones is, however, said to be devoid of any unpleasant taste, and to be sufficiently palatable even to Europeans. The _eggs_ also are eaten. Of the _teeth_ of the alligator, which are as white as ivory, the Americans make snuff-boxes, charges for guns, and several kinds of toys.

There is an unfounded opinion that the upper jaws of these animals are moveable; and that they have no tongue. They swim with great velocity, and sometimes float asleep on the rivers, like immense logs of wood. Their voracity is excessive; springing in a very surprising manner upon animals on which they prey, they instantly drag them into the water, sink to the bottom, and there devour them. The females deposit their eggs, from eighty to a hundred in number, in the sand, and leave them to be hatched by the heat of the sun.

198. _The GUANA_ (Lacerta iguana, Fig. 55) _is a species of lizard, four or five feet in length, which has a round and long tail; the back with an elevated ridge of scales; and the throat with a pouch that is capable of being inflated to a large size._

_These animals are found among rocks, or in woods, in several parts of India and America. In Surinam, Guiana, and Cayenne, they are very numerous: and they are occasionally caught in the West Indian islands._

Scarcely any species of animal food is so much admired by epicures in hot climates as the _flesh_ of the guana. It is preferred even to that of the turtle, and is cooked in various ways, being roasted, boiled, or converted into soup. The fat of these animals, after having been melted and clarified, is applicable to many uses. The flesh is sometimes salted, and exported for sale to distant countries.

There are several modes of catching guanas. In many parts of America they are chased by dogs, which are trained purposely to this pursuit. Frequently they are caught with snares placed near their haunts, and sometimes by a noose of cord affixed to the end of a long rod.

The _eggs_ of the guana, which are generally found in the sand near the sea-shore, are said to be preferable for sauces and other purposes of cookery to the eggs of poultry; but, when eaten alone, they are viscid in the mouth, and to an European palate have at first a very disagreeable taste.

199. _SERPENTS._--Several kinds of serpents are adopted as food by the inhabitants of countries in which they are found. The American Indians often regale themselves on _RATTLE-SNAKES_ (_Crotalus horridus_), skinning and eating them as we do eels. The _GREAT BOA_ (_Boa constrictor_), which sometimes measures more than thirty feet in length, is a favourite food with the negroes of some countries. The flesh of the _COMMON VIPER_ (_Coluber berus_) has been strongly recommended as a medicine in several complaints, such as leprosy, scurvy, rheumatism, and consumptions, but its virtues have been much exaggerated.

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CLASS IV.--FISHES.

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ORDER I.--APODAL FISH.

200. _The ROMAN EEL_ (Muræna helena, Fig. 56) _is a long and slimy fish, of serpentine form, variously marked and spotted, and destitute of pectoral fins._

_It is an inhabitant both of fresh and salt waters, and is chiefly found in the Mediterranean sea, and the rivers that run into that sea._

By the Romans this fish was regarded one of the greatest delicacies which could be introduced at their tables; and instances have been recorded of wealthy persons having even fed them with the flesh of slaves that had been condemned to die, believing that they were thereby rendered still more delicious.

On many parts of the coast of Italy reservoirs were made in the sea for storing and fattening these fish in; and the luxurious Sybarites exempted from every kind of tribute the persons who sold them. Representations of them were made into ear-rings, and into other ornaments for female attire. Pliny tells us, that one of the Roman punishments for youths under the age of seventeen years was to flog them with whips made of eel-skin.

201. _The COMMON EEL_ (Muræna anguilla, Fig. 55) _is distinguishable by its lower jaw being somewhat longer than the upper, and the body being of an uniform colour._

_It is an inhabitant of rivers and ponds in almost every country of Europe; and sometimes grows to the weight of fifteen or twenty pounds._

The _flesh_ of the eel affords a very rich and delicious food; and, were it not for groundless prejudices, arising from its serpent-like shape, this fish would be in much greater request for the table than it now is.

So abundant are eels, in many of the rivers adjacent to the sea, that, in the first autumnal floods several tons' weight have sometimes been caught in a day; and, in the river Ban, near Coleraine, in Ireland, there is an eel-fishery of such extent as to be let for 1000l. per annum. The modes of taking eels are various; but these are chiefly by traps or engines of different kinds, so contrived as to admit of their entering, but to prevent their return.

In the river Nyne, Northamptonshire, a small kind of eels are caught, with small head and narrow mouths, which have the name _bed-eels_. What are called, in the south of England, _grigs_, _gluts_, or _snigs_, are a variety of the common eel with larger head, blunter nose, and thicker skin. _Silver eels_ owe probably their distinction of colour to the clear and gravelly streams in which they feed.

Eels are considered in highest perfection for the table from the commencement of spring till about the end of July; yet they continue good till the end of September. The modes of cooking them are numerous and well known. In some parts of the Continent the _skins_ are made into a kind of ropes, which have great strength and durability. The inhabitants of several of the districts of Tartary use them, in place of glass, for windows; and, in the Orkney Islands, they are worn as a remedy for the cramp. Bits of eel-skin are not unfrequently put into coffee to clarify it. In many parts of the North of Europe the _scales_, which are extremely minute, are mixed with cement to give a silvery lustre to the houses.

202. _The CONGER, or SEA EEL_ (Muræna conger), _is chiefly distinguished from the common eel by the lower jaw being shorter than the upper, and the lateral or side line being white._

_It is found in all the European seas; and, when at its full growth, measures from six to twelve feet in length, and from twelve to twenty inches in circumference._

So numerous are congers on some of the British shores, that, from Mount's Bay, in Cornwall, there have, in some years, been more than ten tons' weight of dried congers exported to different parts of Spain and Portugal. These fish are also peculiarly abundant in the neighbourhood of the Orkneys and Hebrides. They are chiefly caught with strong lines, each about 500 feet in length, and having sixty hooks placed about eight feet asunder. The lines are sunk in the sea, and sometimes so many of them are fastened together that they extend nearly a mile in length.

The _flesh_ of the conger is white, but coarse and greasy; and, though frequently eaten, is to some persons extremely disgusting. In the salting and drying of these fish they shrink to less than one-fourth part of their original weight, and the process is attended by the most nauseous stench. By the Spaniards and Portuguese dried congers are ground or beaten into powder, to thicken and give a relish to soups.

203. _SAND-LAUNCE, SAND EEL, or WRECKLE_ (Ammodytes tobianus), _is a small fish, distinguished by its eel-shape, its head being narrower than the body, the lower jaw much longer than the upper, and the upper lip being doubled._

_There is only one ascertained species of launce: this is found on sandy sea-shores in the Northern Ocean, and seldom exceeds the length of six or eight inches._

From about the end of June to the middle of October these brilliant little fish are caught in great numbers on the southern coasts of England. They are sometimes fished for with seine nets, which have small meshes, and sometimes are dug out of the sand, at low water, with a kind of fork that has three or four short and flat prongs.

When eaten perfectly fresh, these are among the richest and most delicious fish that are known. But, to have them in perfection, they should be cooked almost immediately after they are caught. They so soon become putrid that it would be impossible to convey them to any distant market. The inhabitants of some parts of the Continent salt and dry them, and, in this state, they are considered a great delicacy.

204. _The EUROPEAN SWORD-FISH_ (Xiphias gladius, Fig. 57) _is known by having its upper jaw lengthened into a hard and sword-shaped blade; and its dorsal fin long, and lowest in the middle._

_These fish are of steel-blue colour, and measure from fifteen to twenty feet in length._

_They are found in most parts of the European seas._

By the ancient Romans sword-fish were highly esteemed as food; and were killed, with harpoons, by persons stationed in boats for that purpose. They were not only eaten fresh, but were also cut into pieces and salted. The inhabitants of Sicily are, at this day, extremely partial to them, and purchase them, particularly the smaller ones, at very high prices. The parts chiefly in request are those about the belly and tail. In several places, near the Mediterranean, the fins are salted and sold under the name of _callo_.

ORDER II.--JUGULAR FISH.

205. _The COMMON COD_ (Gadus morhua, Fig. 58) _is distinguished by having three fins upon its back, a small fleshy beard on the under jaw, the tail fin nearly even at the extremity, and the first ray of the anal fin spinous._

_The average weight of these fish is from ten to twenty, or thirty pounds._

To the inhabitants of many countries, but more especially to those of our own, the cod fishery is a very essential source of wealth. It affords occupation to many thousand persons, and employment for several hundred sail of shipping. The fishery on the great bank near the island of Newfoundland is by far the most important of any that has hitherto been discovered in the world, and the resort of fish to this spot is beyond all imagination numerous. In the year 1791 there were caught more than 750,000,000 pounds weight.

This immense bank is a vast mountain in the sea, more than 400 miles long, 150 miles broad, and, in depth of water, from twenty to sixty fathoms. It was first discovered in the reign of Henry the Seventh; and in 1548 an act of parliament was passed, by which all Englishmen were permitted to traffic and fish on the coasts of Newfoundland and the adjacent banks, without payment of any duty. In 1583 Sir Humphrey Gilbert took possession of the island of Newfoundland in the name of Queen Elizabeth; and the first English company that associated to settle a colony there was incorporated by a patent of King James the First, in 1609.

The Newfoundland fishery at present gives freight to about 300 vessels, from 100 to 200 tons' burden each. These are chiefly fitted out from the islands of Guernsey and Jersey, from Ireland, and some ports of the English Channel, as Pool, Dartmouth, &c. When these vessels arrive at the fishery, a kind of gallery is formed, which reaches from the main-mast to the poop, and sometimes even from one end of the ship to the other. This is furnished with tuns stove in at one end, into which the fishermen get, to be sheltered from the weather, their heads being covered with a kind of roof fixed to the top of the tun. The mode of fishing is by hook and line only; and the baits are herrings, a small fish called capelins (209), shell fish, or pieces of sea fowl. Each man can catch only one fish at a time; yet an expert fisherman has sometimes been known to take 400 in a day. As soon as the fish are caught the tongues are cut out, the heads cut off, and the liver, entrails, and spine, are all taken out. After this they are salted and piled, for some time, in the holds of the vessels, and then packed in barrels for sale, under the name of _green_ or _wet cod_. When the fish are to be dried, they are conveyed in boats to the shore, where they are headed, cleansed, and salted, upon stages or scaffolds erected for that purpose. They are subsequently spread on the shore to dry; these are called _dry cod_, and constitute the principal object of the Newfoundland trade. The chief markets to which the fish are conveyed are those of Spain, Portugal, Italy, and the Levant.

The most important fishing banks of Europe are in the neighbourhood of Iceland, Norway, and the Orkney Islands; and the Dogger-bank, and Well-bank, betwixt this country and Holland.

As the air-bladders of cod are thick and of a gelatinous nature, the Icelanders frequently make _isinglass_ of them, similar to that which we usually import from Russia. By the Newfoundland fishermen the air-bladders are generally salted and packed in barrels under the name of _sounds_; and these, when good, are considered a great delicacy for the table. The _tongues_ are prepared in the same manner and for the same purpose. From the _livers_, after they have become in a certain degree putrid, a kind of oil is obtained which is considered superior to whale oil (118), because it preserves leather longer flexible, and, when clarified, yields less vapour in burning than that. The _roes_ are collected by the Icelanders, salted, packed in barrels, and sold to the Dutch, French, and Spaniards, as bait for anchovies and other fish. Before the commencement of the French revolution from 20,000 to 30,000 barrels of these roes were annually exported from Bergen. The inhabitants of some parts of Norway, when forage is scarce, dry the _heads_ of cod, and, mixing them with some species of sea-weeds, give them as food to their cattle.

The London markets are abundantly supplied with fresh cod from the fishing banks adjacent to our own country. These fish are in season from the beginning of December till about the end of April; and are brought alive to the Thames in well-boats, the air-bladders being previously perforated with a pointed instrument, to prevent the fish from rising in the water. Cod should be chosen for the table of middling size, plump about the shoulder and near the tail, the hollow behind the head deep, and with a regular undulated appearance on the sides, as if they were ribbed. The gills should be very red, the eyes fresh, and the flesh white and firm.

It is generally considered that the shoals of cod confine themselves between the latitudes 66° and 50° north. Those which are caught to the north or south of these degrees are both few in quantity and bad in quality.

206. _The HADDOCK_ (Gadus aglefinus) _is a fish of the cod tribe, which has three fins tip on its back, a small fleshy beard on the under jaw, the upper jaw the longer, and the tail somewhat forked. There is a dark oval spot on each side of the body a little below the gills._

_These fish seldom exceed the weight of seven or eight pounds._

Our markets are principally supplied with haddocks from the coast of Yorkshire and other eastern parts of England. They are best in season betwixt the months of July and January, after which they deposit their eggs or roe, and, for many weeks, are scarcely eatable; but those which have not begun to breed may be admitted to the table after this period. Their flesh, which in a degree resembles that of the common cod, is white, firm, well-tasted, and easy of digestion. Those that are best for the table do not usually exceed the weight of two or three pounds.

Though haddocks are sometimes caught with nets, they are much more frequently taken by lines. Each of these has a great number of hooks, and is placed in the sea at the ebb of the tide, and taken up at the ensuing tide. The numbers thus caught have, in some instances, been almost beyond belief. Some idea may however be formed respecting them, when it is stated that shoals of haddocks have not unfrequently been known to extend four or five miles in length and nearly a mile in width.

These fish are sometimes salted and packed in barrels like cod. And, if this be skilfully done, they are excellent eating, and may be kept good for a great length of time.

207. _The TORSK_ (Gadus callarias, Fig. 59) _is a species of cod which has three fins upon its back, a small fleshy beard on the under jaw, the upper jaw longer than the lower, and the tail fin nearly even at the extremity._

_Its usual weight is from two to seven or eight pounds._

As an article of food the torsk is said to be superior to every fish of its tribe. It is principally found in the Baltic Sea and the Northern Ocean, and has not hitherto been known to frequent the English shores. The most favourable seasons for catching these fish, in Greenland, are the spring and autumn; and the general mode is by lines made of pieces of whalebone, or thongs of seal-skin, the hooks being baited with fish.

The Icelanders frequently salt and dry them, as one of their articles of subsistence for the winter.

208. _The WHITING POUT_ (Gadus barbatus) _is a small fish of the cod kind, distinguishable by the great depth of its body, which is usually about one-third of its length; by having three dorsal fins, a small fleshy beard on the chin, and seven punctures on each side of the lower jaw._

_Its weight seldom exceeds a pound and half or two pounds._

These delicate fish are found in shoals, near several of the shores of Europe. They are usually caught about the month of August; and are so plentiful on some parts of the French coast that fishermen have been known to take two or three hundred of them at a single haul of their nets.

The French consider them to be dry and insipid eating; but in England they are often more esteemed than whitings. The inhabitants of Greenland frequently salt them: they also salt and dry the _roes_; and are particularly partial to the _livers_, which they dress and serve to table with crowberries (_Empetrum nigrum_).

209. _The CAPELAN, or POOR_ (Gadus minutus), _is a fish of the cod tribe, which seldom exceeds the length of six or seven inches, and differs from all others of the same tribe by being black in the interior of the abdomen._

_It has three dorsal fins, a small beard on the chin, and nine punctures on each side of the lower jaw._

In the Newfoundland fishery these fish are of considerable importance, as supplying bait for the taking of cod. They are also found in considerable numbers in the Mediterranean, the Baltic, and the North Sea, and wherever they appear they are a source of great joy to the fishermen, since they are believed to announce an abundant supply of valuable fish, which pursue and prey upon them.

It is stated that, in the year 1545, the French coasts in the Mediterranean were visited, for two months, by such myriads of capelans, that many of the inhabitants were obliged to collect together and bury those that were thrown ashore, to prevent any evil consequence that might occur from the corruption of so great a mass of animal matter. These fish are sometimes caught on the coast of Cornwall.

They are considered very delicate food; and when salted are peculiarly excellent. A few barrels of salted capelans are occasionally sent from Newfoundland, as presents to the friends of the merchants in England, but the fish are too small to be salted there as an article of profit. They are caught both with lines and nets.

210. _The WHITING_ (Gadus merlangus) _is distinguished from other fish of the cod tribe by having three fins on its back, no beard on the chin, its upper jaw longer than the lower, the tail-fin somewhat hollowed, the back dusky, and the rest of the body silvery white._

_Its weight seldom exceeds two pounds._

The chief season for whiting is during the first three months of the year, though they are frequently, brought to market till after Midsummer. They are sometimes caught with nets, but the hook and line are generally preferred, on account of the depth of the water at which they are usually found. The baits are lugworms, and muscles, whelks, or other shell-fish. The shoals of whiting, which approach within two or three miles of our shores, are sometimes extremely numerous. The Dutch fishermen use lines, for catching them, of immense length, and each containing about 250 hooks. These are laid near the bottom of the water; and when taken up have, in many instances, a fish at each hook.

It has been remarked that the flesh of the whiting, which is usually considered very delicate eating, varies much with the season and the kind of shore where the fish are caught. Those which frequent sandy flats, at a little distance from the shores, are smaller and much better flavoured than others that are taken on banks distant from the sea-coasts. They should be chosen for the table by the redness of their gills, the brightness of the eyes, and the general firmness of the body and fins.

In the neighbourhood of Bruges and Ostend whitings are frequently salted; and conveyed for sale into the interior of France and Germany, where, in general, they are considered preferable to salted cod.

211. _COAL-FISH, or PILTOCKS_ (Gadus carbonarius), _are a kind of cod with three dorsal fins, no beard on the under jaw; the under jaw longer than the upper, the side line straight, and the mouth black within._

_They are frequently two or three feet long, and twenty pounds and upwards in weight._