CHAPTER XII

MONTEVIDEO 151

Population--Attributes of the city--Situation of the Uruguayan capital--The Cerro--A comparison between the capitals of Argentina and Uruguay--The atmosphere of Montevideo--A city of restful activity--Comparatively recent foundation--Its origin an afterthought--Montevideo in 1727--Homely erections--Progress of the town--Advance effected within the last thirty years--The Uruguayan capital at the beginning of the nineteenth century--Some chronicles of the period--The ubiquity of meat--Dogs and their food--Some curious accounts of the prevalence of rats--The streets of old Montevideo--Their perils and humours--A comparison between the butchers' bills of the past and of the present--Some unusual uses for sheep--Methods in which the skulls and horns of cattle were employed--Modern Montevideo--The National Museum--An admirable institution--Theatres--Critical Montevidean audiences--Afternoon tea establishments--The Club Uruguay--The English Club--British community in the capital--Its enterprise and philanthropy--The _Montevideo Times_--A feat in editorship--Hotels--Cabs and public vehicles--The cost of driving.