CHAPTER XXIX

A Cordial Reception at San Francisco--Mexicans in the Employ of Indians --The Morning Star, the Great God of the Coras--The Beginning of the World--How the Rain-clouds were First Secured--The Rabbit and the Deer--Aphorisms of a Cora Shaman--An Eventful Night--Hunting for Skulls--My Progress Impeded by Padre's Ban--Final Start for the Huichol Country--A Threatened Desertion, Pages 508-530

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Portrait of the Author _Frontispiece_ A Dasylirion, 1 Cottonwood, 4 _Cereus Greggii_, a small cactus with enormous root, 5 Fronteras, 7 Remarkable Ant-hill, 8 Church Bells at Opoto, 10 Also a Visitor, 11 A Mexican from Opoto, 12 Rock-carvings near Granados, 15 The Church in Bacadehuachi, 17 Aztec Vase, Found in the Church of Bacadehuachi, 18 _Agave Hartmani_, a new species of century plant, 19 Ancient Pecking on a Trachyte Boulder one foot square, 20 In the Hills of Northeastern Sonora, 24 Adios, Senor! 27 View toward the Northwest from Sierra de Huehuerachi, 29 Our Principal Guide Leaving Us, 32 A Mule with its Pack of Crates, 33 The Photographic Mule, 34 On the Crest of the Sierra, 37 Apache Monument, 39 Camp in the High Sierra, 47 Bringing in Deer, 51 The Largest Woodpecker in the World, 54 Distant View of Cupola-shaped Granary in Cave, 58 Single Wall in Cliff, 61 Ground Plan of House Groups in Granary Cave, 62 Cupola-shaped Granary in Cave, 64 Granary in Tlaxcala, 65 Bases of Granaries in Cave, 65 Ground Plan of House Groups in Cave on East Side of the River, 66 Sandal Plaited from Yucca Leaves, 67 Heel of a Sandal, Showing Plaiting, 68 Piece of Wood Showing Drill Mark, 68 Pendant of Wood, 69 Implement for Throwing, 69 Burial Caves in Cave Valley, 70 A Mummified Body, 71 Rock Paintings in White on the Inside of a Burial Cave in Cave Valley, 72 A Trinchera in Cave Valley, 73 Ancient Cave-dwellings in Strawberry Valley, 75 Interior View of Cave-dwellings Shown on Page 75, 76 Exterior View of Cave-dwellings in Strawberry Valley, 77 Objects Found in Mounds at Upper Piedras Verdes River, 81 Painting on Rock on Piedras Verdes River, 82 Figures on Walls of a Cave-house on Piedras Verdes River, 83 Figure on Rock on Piedras Verdes River, 83 Hunting Antelope in Disguise, 84 Casas Grandes, 85 Ceremonial Hatchet with Mountain Sheep's Head. From Casas Grandes. Broken, 88 Earthenware Vessel in Shape of a Woman. From Casas Grandes, 89 Cerro de Montezuma and the Watch Tower Seen from the South, 91 Double Earthenware Vessel, from San Diego, with Hollow Connection at Base, 92 Extension of Designs on Plate I., _a_, 95 The Horned Toad Jar, Seen from Above and Below. Plate I., _c_, 95 Extension of Designs on Plate I., _d_, 95 Extension of Designs on Plate III., _e_, 95 Extension of Designs on Plate V., _e_, 97 Black Ware, Highly Polished, 97 Extension of Design on Plate IV., _a_, 98 Extension of Design on Plate IV., _b_, 98 Extension of Designs on Plate IV., _c_, 98 Extension of Designs on Plate IV., _f_, 98 Extension of Designs on Plate V., _c_, 98 Ancient Cave-dwelling at Garabato, 101 Part of Cave-dwellings at Garabato, 103 Design in Red on Second-story Wall, 105 Piece of Matting from Garabato Cave, 107 Ancient Cave-houses and Granaries near Aros River, 111 Tarahumare, 119 Tarahumare Plough with Wooden Share, 121 Tarahumare Ploughshare Made of Oak, 122 Tarahumare Ploughshare of Stone, 122 Young Southern Pima, 123 Middle-aged Southern Pima, 124 Southern Pimas Living in a Brushwood Inclosure, 125 Pine Cone Serving as a Comb, 127 Southern Pima Arrow Release, 128 Small Crosses Placed in a Log in Front of Southern Pima House, 128 The Waterfall of Basasiachic, 129 Tarahumare Ploughman, 133 Ancient Stone Hammer Seen in the Presidente's Yard, 134 Tarahumare Indians from Pino Gordo, 137 Tarahumare Court in Session at Cusarare, 140 Barranca de Urique, 145 Our Tarahumare Carriers and the Gobernador, 148 Tarahumare Men, 149 Tarahumare Woman, 150 Necklace of Seeds of _Coix Lachryma-Jobi_, 151 Tarahumare Ear-ornament: one seed _Coix Lachryma-Jobi_ at top. Natural size, 151 Tarahumare Ranch near Barranca de Cobre, showing ploughed fields supported by stone walls, 152 Tarahumare Ranch near Barranca de Cobre, showing agriculture on terraces, 152 Tarahumare House near Barranca de Cobre, 157 Tarahumare House in the Hot Country, 158 Cappe of Sandstone Pillar, showing effect of erosion, 159 Tarahumare Family Camping under a Tree, 161 Inhabited Cave, the Home of a Tarahumare Belle, 162 The Belle of the Cave, 163 Side View of Cave on Page 165, Showing Store-houses and Inclosure, 164 Inhabited Cave, Showing Store-houses, Inclosure, and Extended Floor, 165 Cave with Wooden Ladder Leading to a Store-room, 169 Crosses Made from the Natural Growth of Pine-trees in Front of Tarahumare House, 172 Crosses in Front of Tarahumare House, 173 Cross, 174 Tarahumare Store-house of Stones and Mud, 175 Caves Used as Store-houses, 176 Tarahumare Store-houses Made of Logs, 178 Cactus Flowers, 179 Making Larvae Ready for the Pot, 182 Gathering Pithaya, 188 In the Highlands of the Sierra, 194 Tarahumare Interpreters, 201 Indian Trail Cut in a Ridge of Tuff, 202 Pecking on Rock in the Neighbourhood of Norogachic, 203 Tarahumare Girl from the Neighbourhood of Norogachic, 205 Pecking on Rock in the Neighbourhood of Norogachic, 207 Winter Morning in the Sierra, 209 Dogs of Chihuahua, 216 Tarahumare Girdles, 219 Aspect of the Tarahumare Country in Humarisa, 227 Taking My Baggage Down an Indian Trail in the Barranca de San Carlos, 231 Tarahumare Woman, 236 Tarahumare Man, 237 Usual Crouching Position of the Tarahumare, 238 Tarahumare Man, 239 Tarahumares Sunning Themselves, 240 Tarahumare Girl. The Hair Worn in Mexican Fashion, 242 Weaving a Girdle, 249 Patterns of Tarahumare Belts, 249 Woman Pottery Maker and Some Results of Her Labour, 250 Tarahumare Pottery from Panalachic, 252 Basket for Straining Tesvino, 254 Tarahumare Blanket, 259 A Tarahumare Call, 260 Tarahumare Arrow Release, 262 Tarahumare Baskets, 263 Tarahumare Girl Carrying Water, 265 Tarahumare, Showing Mode of Wearing Blanket, 268 Tarahumare Blankets, 274 Stone Disk for Playing, 277 Sticks Used by Tepehuanes for Playing, 278 Value of the Different Sides of a Knuckle-bone, 278 Tarahumares Playing Quinze, 279 Cross Marking the Track of the Foot-runners, 283 Tarahumares Racing by Torch-light, 285 Making Wagers at a Foot-race, 288 Part of Tarahumare Rattling Belt, 290 Tarahumare Foot-runners, Photographed after the Race, 291 Tarahumare Women Crossing a Stream in Their Race, 293 Fork and Wooden Ball Used in Women's Game, 294 Stick and Ring Used in Women's Game, 294 The Coyote, _Canis Latrans_, 303 Tarahumare Shaman's Rattles, 313 Rubio, the Shaman, 316 Rubio, the Shaman, and His Wife at Home in Their Cave, 319 Shaman Rubio's Cave, Seen from the Outside, 320 Rubio, the Shaman, Examining a Man Accused of Sorcery, 324 Trepanned Tarahumare Skull, Female, 328 The Beginning of the Rutuburi and the Yumari Dance, 335 Dancing Yumari, 341 Sacrificing Tesvino after a Yumari Dance, 345 Ready to Begin Eating and Drinking after a Night's Dancing of Rutuburi, 349 _Echinocactus_, 357 Hikuli or Peyote, the principal sacred cacti, 358 Dry Hikuli, 359 Shaman's Notched Stick, 366 Ancient Notched Sticks, 366 Tarahumare Women Dancing Hikuli at Guajochic Station, 369 _Mammilaria fissurata_, 373 Shaman Rubio and His Company at a Hikuli Feast. Photographed after a Night's Singing and Dancing, 376 Tarahumare Medicine Figure, Mexico, 378 Ancient Ritualistic Petrograph, Arizona, 378 Mourning, 380 View from the North across Barranca de San Carlos, near Guachochic, 392 Barranca de San Carlos, in its Upper Part, 395 One of My Companions in Barranca de San Carlos, 397 The Widow Grinding Corn in Her Camp, 399 Bow and Throwing-stick for the Fish-spear, 401 The Amole, a Species of Agave, 402 Tarahumares on the Rio Fuerte Fishing with Their Blankets, 405 _Pinus Lumholtzii_, 409 Civilised Tarahumare Boy, 417 Juan Ignacio and His Son, Pagan Tarahumares, 419 A Tepehuane Family, 423 Old Log-houses near Nabogame, 424 Tepehuanes from Nabogame, 427 Tepehuane Medicine Lodge near Mesa de Milpillas, 432 A Well-known Tepehuane Shaman, 434 _Salvia elegans_, var. _sonorensis_, 438 The Flower-spike of the Amole, 439 _Cereus caespitosus_, 440 Tubar Man, 442 Tubar Women, 443 Beads of Burnt Clay, from Tubar Tombs, 444 Tepehuane Sling made from Maguey Fibre, 458 Tepehuane Pouch made from Maguey Fibre, 459 Tepehuane Store-house, near Lajas, 461 The Musical Bow of the Tepehuanes of the South, and of the Aztecs, 475 Rattle for Ankle, made from Empty Pods of a Palm, 477 Cora Men and Women from Santa Teresa, 489 Cora Pouch, of Unusual Shape, made of Wool. Patterns represent Flying Birds and a row of Deer, 492 Cora Indians from Mesa del Nayarit, 501 The Sacred Dancing-place of the Coras, called Towta, the supposed residence of the great Taquat of the East of the same name. Photographed after the Dancing was over, 517 God's Eye, made by the Cora Tribe as a Prayer for My Health and Life, 521

COLOURED PLATES

PLATES I., II., III., IV. Pottery from San Diego _at end of volume_ PLATE V. Pottery from San Diego and Casas Grandes _at end of volume_ PLATE VI. A Tarahumare Beauty _facing page 266_

UNKNOWN MEXICO