Part 6

Most of the ports to the southward of Monte Leone were so inconsiderable as to surrender on the first appearance of a military force or of a ship of war. But the port which by its position was by far the most important (viz. the castle, strongly built upon the rock of Scylla) was in a good state of defence, impregnable to assault, fully garrisoned, and commanded by the chief engineer of Regnier’s army; so as might have been expected, the commandant had treated the Admiral’s summons to surrender with contempt. It was necessary, therefore, to march against the place. And when the commander of the brigade which sat down before it gave a more serious summons, the Frenchman answered that before he could surrender he must at least see the means by which he could be reduced, meaning without doubt _heavy artillery, so placed as to batter him in breach_.

It became necessary therefore to attack this castle by a regular siege, and the army on the 12th of July began its march at four o’clock in the morning. It had not proceeded many miles before I, being then about fifty miles distant, received an order from my Commandant to repair to the siege also. So I set forward alone.

The road lies over bold mountains, and is so intricate and devious that I lost my way and greatly lengthened my ride; but having traversed the promontory of Tropea, the route is then more certain and confirmed--keeping still indeed over mountains, but having the near-sounding sea as a general guide, sometimes showing itself through the cleft of two mountain peaks, and sending up the report of every gun fired on its surface multiplied by the muffled echoes of the mountains.

After riding about fifty miles, the incessant sound of guns advertised me of my approach to the scene of action, and soon, by one of those dangerous paths whereon a horse moves with difficulty, and a stumble would precipitate both horse and rider many hundred feet, I descended to the small marine town of Scylla (bounded to the south by the peninsular rock on which the besieged castle stood), and saw on its highest tower (in spite of its investment by sea and land) the tricolour flag flying.

The rock on which the castle stands seems, as it were, shoved out a considerable way into the sea by the low and narrow isthmus which ties it to the shore, and from this isthmus it rears itself suddenly in the midst of the waves.

Before the castle was built this spot was probably an inaccessible peak of naked rock; the top, however, has been blown away to afford space for military occupation, leaving height enough to afford a formidable scarp of natural rock towards the land as the basement of the artificial rampart; towards the sea, an abrupt precipitous cliff, inaccessible to man, descends perpendicularly into the deep water.

The fort constructed upon the table of this peninsular rock was, up to a certain point, admirably adapted for security and strength. But that abrupt and lonely precipitousness of inaccessible circuit, which to the unlearned eye presented so imposing a picture of invulnerable strength, was in fact the radical defect of the position, which made it impossible to secure it against the means and measures of modern war. The great strength of modern fortification consists certainly in the glacis, or in that smoothly sloping mound which conceals and covers the rampart to the very chin, yet is severed from it by a deep and impassable ditch, screening it from every injury, even by the heaviest and most numerous ordnance, whilst its own gradual slope is swept by a rain and hail of cannon-balls, grape shot, and musketry, both from its own parapet and that of the superior rampart. But to construct this, ample space is necessary, and consequently for a rocky peak like Scylla, joined to the land by a narrowing isthmus, this work, so indispensable to durable strength, was totally unattainable.

The strength, then, of the Castle of Scylla lay briefly in this, that its reduction required the bringing against it of heavy artillery, capable of beating down the rampart that fronted the land.

So much for the castle which I now beheld, and which, surrounded with enemies by sea and land, and cut off from all connection with any friendly force, stood up boldly in the midst of that sapphire sea and unfurled the three-coloured flag of national defiance.

I shall now briefly describe the circumstances and things by which it was at this time surrounded, not so much on account of any historical importance attaching to this little siege, as because the classic associations and natural beauties of the scene consecrate it to memory, and its local form subjected all these operations to the eye, like some warlike spectacle in the theatre of the gods.

If we can fancy ourselves within the castle and looking over the isthmus in the direction of the land, behind us and almost all round us is the sea. On the left hand is the beach and town of Scylla. On the right the bold and mountainous shore takes a gradual sweep, till over a space of sea it looks down upon our right flank. Here Sir Sidney Smith has established a battery and hoisted the English colours.

Immediately in front, from the base of the isthmus, rises a steep cliff, whose brow, divided into several distinct hills, overlooks the castle at the distance of some five or six hundred yards. These heights have a surface very spacious, rising very gradually from the cliff towards the steeps of the Superior Mountains. Farms, vineyards, gardens, and country houses occupy and intersect this sloping headland. But the head of each hill or cliff looking upon the castle has been kept bare, probably with a view to defence, though unfortunately the same precaution had not been observed with respect to the ground nearer the foot of the cliff, and looking very close upon the main rampart; for there, for marine convenience, a little suburb had been suffered to rise, and it was behind the mask of one of these houses that the breaching battery was at last erected.

Beyond that vine-clad esplanade or level district which rose very gradually from the brow of the cliff, the heights, still clothed with cultivation, ascended more steeply towards the summit of that vast range of mountains, which makes this trend of coast so bold, imperious, and pre-eminently beautiful.

It was partly upon, and partly still above, these steeper slopes that the besieging army bivouacked, as the nearer ground would have made them liable to annoyance from the guns of the castle.

All the necessary communication with the army from Sicily and from the sea was by a rugged mountain path formed upon the side of an awful ravine, whose embouchure opened upon the beach between the town and castle.

The road which this ravine afforded was not only difficult but likely to cause frightful accidents; for when I ascended by it the first time, to join the besiegers’ army, I saw where a sumpter horse heavily laden had fallen the day before with its load, and the poor animal was still visible lying on its back some hundred feet below.

To supply the requisites for a siege by such a road, it may well be believed, was difficult in the extreme, and would have been impossible but for our all-conquering sailors, who with their tackling and their “yo-hee-ho” hauled the guns and carriages up the rocks at the points nearest to the ground chosen for their position. Yet it was some days after my arrival before operations could be commenced, and much of those days I passed in a lofty observatory built of branches, in so elevated a position that I looked down upon the castle and the sea.

On one side I saw the Neapolitan gunboats, and on the other Sir Sidney Smith’s battery, cannonading the castle, and the castle occasionally making a shrewd shot at the gunboats, which also, oftener than the castle, were startled by the plunging fire of our naval battery. On the arrival of my Commandant all these futile operations died away. The General and the Admiral equally relied upon the resources of his science and the natural energy of his powerful mind, and after some loss from irregular experiments, no one was suffered to interfere with his plan of operations.

He went with us to the embouchure of the ravine to have a good view of the castle from head to foot; and whilst he stood with his uplifted telescope carefully examining the nature of its defences, a cannon-ball very nearly struck him, and covered him with sand; but he never even lowered his telescope or remitted his attentive speculation, and only showed that he was aware of the fact by saying, as he continued to look through his glass, “What asses, to fire in that way at an individual!”

It seemed to my inexperience that this was standing fire tolerably well--brave and invincible Lefebure! It was as he stood just so, with his eagle glance bent on the foe, the last to quit a ruined fort he was ordered to evacuate, that in after years a cannon-ball struck his breast, and severed his brave spirit from his noble form.[10]

That there might be no disappointment in the stores expected from Messina, I was desired to cross the Faro, superintend their embarkation, and return with them. For this purpose I took one of the Calabrese boats which lay on the beach.

The warders of the castle seeing a British officer put off in a boat, honoured us with a shot or two, to the great and undissembled terror of the boatmen, while I was doing all I could to imitate the cool indifference of our Commandant on the preceding day; but we soon got out of their range, and they ceased to fire, which made me wonder the more to see that the boatmen were going a devious course, sometimes one way, sometimes another. “What now,” said I, “body of Pluto! what ails the rogues?”

“Zitto! zitto! cellenza!” they whispered, and with their eloquent hands at once motioned me to be quiet, and to come forward to the prow. There on the very peak one of the men, having thrown off his jacket and shirt, stood up, as straight as a _mast_, with his flat hands pressed together on his breast, and looking down intensely upon the sea. Following the direction of his eyes, I perceived at a great depth, in the bright blue sea, rowing itself contentedly along, a turtle of a size uncommon in these waters. With great dexterity they so managed the boat as to follow closely the course of the turtle; and when they had brought the prow of the boat nearly over him, the man who stood there, lifting his joined hands above his head, turned himself over, and went head foremost like an arrow into the sea.

In a moment up he came again, bearing the dripping, gasping turtle on its back, in his two hands, clear above the water, flapping its oary legs, and gasping with its hawk’s beak; the man treading the water, panting and laughing at his exploit, and his delighted companions, as they relieved him of his load, all applauding him at once, helping him in, and saying, “Bravo, Signor, bravissimo! La Maestro! da capo! et viva!”

I thought I never saw a neater bit of fishing. A small silver coin served to make the turtle my own, and I determined to take him back with me to see what we could make of him.

* * * * *

But to return to Scylla. Before heavy guns could be got up, it was thought advisable to make such use of the Light Artillery as could destroy as much as possible the defences or fire of the enemy.

The most anxious night I ever passed was in erecting a breastwork for two 12-pounders within half musket-shot of the place, as everything depended upon its being completed before the light should discover us to the enemy. And though I explained to the men their danger if they should be discovered, it did not appear to create in them any extraordinary vigour. On the contrary, if my back was an instant turned, I found half of them asleep or sitting down, and it was difficult to detect them owing to the darkness of the night. Only by the most violent means could I extort a tolerable portion of labour, though I knew that if we were not covered before dawn, the spot was so exposed that at least half the party would be sacrificed.

By perfect silence, however, we avoided discovery during the night, favoured by the enemy being himself employed, as we could distinctly hear by every move, which, at cautious intervals, interrupted the silence of the night. The radiance of the stars faintly delineated the features of the gloomy horizon, and when the light of day discovered us to the enemy, he opened upon us a very brisk fire of musketry without intermission for an hour and a half, which, after being partially silenced by a howitzer, continued at intervals until the battery was finished. We were so well covered, and so little remained to be done on the outside, that only one man was wounded.

Nothing could be prettier than the siege to a person out of fire. The ruddy evenings gave the most tranquil warmth to the scene, which was bounded in front by the Lipari Islands, with Scylla on the left, and the beautiful Calabrian promontory on the right, and the only thing wrong was that the volcano should (quite contrary to usual practice) choose to remain in perfect repose.

When I left Scylla, the two 12-pounders had destroyed a part of the fort which hitherto had given us considerable annoyance, and in two days it was expected that we should open a battery of four 24-pounders within 150 yards of the castle, which could not fail in a few hours to knock it to pieces. The result was that Scylla surrendered on the 23rd July 1806.

* * * * *

Now for myself. I was ordered to put myself under the command of Lieut.-Colonel M’Leod, who with his regiment (78th) was to proceed on a reconnaissance on the eastern coast of Calabria; and here I am, installed on board the _London_ transport, and probably after a month’s cruising we shall come back and settle quietly in Messina.

“LONDON” TRANSPORT (OFF CALABRIA), _July 20, 1806_.

MY DEAREST FATHER--I seize the only advantage immediately resulting from being cooped on board, viz. the opportunity to address one’s friends leisurely and comfortably; and as the duty on which I am now going is not likely to be at all dangerous, I have no fears of alarming you by giving as much account of myself as will be comfortable to you and me.

* * * * *

H.M.S. _Amphion, July 24, 1806_.

My situation has been considerably amended as to comfort since coming on board this ship, which is commanded by the brother of my friend Hoste, R.E., whom I never spoke to until my arrival in the Bay of St. Eufemia. Yet with the most gratifying attention, he has rescued me from the miserable transport, where I was destitute even of those comforts which usually palliate the sufferings of a transport imprisonment, and taken me into his own cabin, which is like most other cabins of men-of-war--a compact assemblage of convenience and comfort. It was besides in some ways better that I should be here with Colonel M’Leod, who came the moment we fell in with the frigate, which, with the vessels and boats under the command of Captain Hoste, is to co-operate with the troops under Colonel M’Leod.

Very important despatches were intercepted yesterday; they were from King Joseph to General Regnier, containing a positive order to retire to Cassano, which is completely out of Calabria.

The King is afflicted and yet more astonished at the conduct of the troops, which rendered nugatory the good arrangements of General Regnier. He would have the 1st Regiment of Light Infantry reminded that they never before had any fear of the English, but always made them fly before them; and the rest of the troops--that they have, until this unfortunate moment of panic-struck terror (for which His Majesty is unable to account), been uniformly victorious. But above all, they are desired to remember _that they are Frenchmen_, and also to be assured that the Emperor shall be ignorant of their conduct until some fresh intelligence convinces H.N.M. that it is really a body of French troops of which General Regnier has the command.[11]

We are every moment receiving on board the leaders of the Patriot Mountaineers, who are the most striking, barbarous-looking fellows.

_6th August._--I send these sheets as they are. I have no time to revise, and add the conclusion of my expedition, as tho’ I am at present on board the _Amphion_, yet not much time will elapse before I tread the firm ground of Messina.

The march of the enemy from Catanzaro towards Naples was very much harassed by the frigate, which threw her shot with admirable precision, insomuch that the column, dispersed and flying for cover, with the utmost precipitation, presented a favourable moment for the Mountaineers, which, alas! they let escape them.

This system of annoyance on our part was followed up on the enemy’s camp, north of Cotrone, from whence they marched in the night, leaving a garrison in the fortress which surrendered to our summons.

When we went on shore we were joyously received by the poor oppressed inhabitants, and the nobility of the town vied with each other in attention to us.

Being chief engineer I was attached to Captain Hoste and Colonel M’Leod, so that my situation was as pleasant as possible; for neither of the commanders treating me with the least _Big-wig_, we carried on the war like three jolly fellows.

A carriage waited each day at the Marina for our coming on shore, and a good dinner was prepared for all the officers.

The first day we dined at the house of a baron whose family had during the stay of the French been in the most terrible alarm, as the house was just in the range of fire between the vessels and the fortress.

One daughter was very beautiful, and I asked her if she was glad that the French were gone; she looked pensive and pale, and answered “Ma quanto.”

There was something gratifying though melancholy to me in the way these people clung to us in all their fears--for the French being gone, their alarm as to the depredations of the native masses was equally oppressive.

During dinner, some of the savage chiefs entered upon business with Colonel M’Leod, and this young creature showing evident signs of inquietude, I asked if she were afraid? “Con voi--no,” with much softness of expression, replied the beautiful Italian.

The British authorities, however, with very laudable solicitude, by threats and promises ensured to the town tranquillity, and quite calmed the fears of the inhabitants.

Yet I was shocked at some of the misery which I saw; alas! human misery can attain a very high pitch.

Colonel M’Leod desired me to give him a report upon Cotrona.

Now, reports are very ticklish sort of things, it being no difficult matter to get the wrong side, and then you are subscribed a fool in black and white to the end of your days--and this was the first time I had been called upon to act by myself. I obeyed orders with much trepidation, but as I afterwards found that Colonel M’Leod, in a despatch to Sir T. Stuart, called my paper “an able report, the ideas in which coincide with his own,” I am well satisfied, and indeed I have had a most pleasant expedition.

MESSINA (_2 hours later_).

I find that General Moore has arrived. I hope I was recommended to him.--Ever your dutiful son,

C. B.

* * * * *

MESSINA, _August 13, 1806, and August 28_.

MY DEAREST MOTHER--I am just returned from a most unexpected cruise in the Gulf of Taranto (mouth of the Adriatic), where I was despatched at a very short notice to reconnoitre Gallipoli and Tarentum, port towns in the Gulf, and I this day carried in my report to H.E. General Fox, who is a man of pleasant manners and sensible appearance.

I was sent out in H.M.S. _Wizard_, a very fast-sailing brig, Captain Palmer commander, and as he could not take me into the harbour of Tarentum in the brig, owing to the batteries on an island at the mouth--from which they gave us a hint or two--he lowered his boat, and we advanced unmolested, very near the walls of the town, which imprudence nearly cost us our liberty. For the enemy on the watch let us come on as far as we would, and the moment we turned, sent out a boat full of soldiers with a huge sail. We attempted for some time to sail before them, but finding they gained on us very fast, the sail was _downed_, and we threw ourselves upon hard rowing for escape, which at one time neither the captain nor myself had any hopes of; and I felt no small degree of exultation to find myself on board H.M.S., as I was far from wishing to be captured in so silly a manner.

They tell us of peace, but I will not believe it. No Minister can, no Minister dare make peace in the present position. Nothing, in my opinion, but this island being an acknowledged British colony, could justify our admitting Joseph’s title to Naples, and we cannot do this without providing for this king, and if he be provided for, somebody else must be robbed. No, no, it won’t do.--Adieu, my dearest mother, ever your affectionate son,

CHARLES.

* * * * *

_September 1._

To-day I wish my dearest father much good sport, and you a good appetite to enjoy his success.

I am ashamed, my ever dearest lady mother, to send you so dirty a letter, but I trust you will excuse it, as I was hurried by the idea of the vessel sailing.

Sir John Stuart carries the mail in which are these letters. I hope the country will receive him as the daring nature of his exploits and the fulness of his victory warrant and demand.

* * * * *

MESSINA, _October 10, 1806_.

MY DEAREST FATHER--I have seen but little of General Moore. When I meet him he treats me in the most agreeable way possible. I dined with him the other day. He came very close to my heart talking of you in a very friendly manner. Not indeed that he said much, but when he mentioned you, he had a sort of friendly satisfaction very agreeable. He told me I was not such a slim fellow as you, and asked about your shooting, etc.

I feel it a sort of comfort to have some interest with a man who may possibly prevent my being left in holes and corners when I should be elsewhere.

General Sherbrooke is here. I do not know him, but hear he is a first-rate officer.

We are extremely anxious for the packet. We expect to hear by the next arrivals what our countrymen think of the battle of Maida.--Your dutiful and affectionate son,

C. B.

* * * * *

CATANIA, _Feb. 21, 1807_.

MY EVER DEAREST FATHER--I did not remember until I dated this letter that probably in the course of this day I should come across your recollection. I beg your blessing, and that of my dearest mother, and I pray God to bless you both, that you may long be able to give it me on the return of this day.

My change of place prevents my writing so often as formerly, from not being in the way of opportunities.

The packet of January has arrived, and possessed us of very late papers.

It is believed here that the French, having crossed the Vistula, have been beaten by the Russians, and any reverse with so large a river in their rear would be incalculable. It is likewise believed that Buonaparte is at Paris, endeavouring to reinforce his army, in spite of a general ferment throughout France.