Chapter 21

The Canal-side at Niigata—Awful 120–127 Loneliness—Courtesy—Dr. Palm’s Tandem—A Noisy _Matsuri_—A Jolting Journey—The Mountain Villages—Winter Dismalness—An Out-of-the-world Hamlet—Crowded Dwellings—Riding a Cow—“Drunk and Disorderly”—An Enforced Rest—Local Discouragements—Heavy Loads—Absence of Beggary—Slow Travelling