Category: Travel Writing

Two Years Among New Guinea Cannibals A Naturalist's Sojourn Among the Aborigines of Unexplored New Guinea

The Author’s many Journeys—New Guinea more Interesting than all— The Second Largest Island in the World, and the last to Guard its Secrets from Man—Its Vast Possibilities to the Trader and the Man of Science—Great Riches in Birds and Insects—770 known Species of Birds—The Peop...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I

The Author’s many Journeys—New Guinea more Interesting than all— The Second Largest Island in the World, and the last to Guard its Secrets from Man—Its Vast Possibilities to the...

2. CHAPTER II

Dutch New Guinea—The Coast—Unsavoury Mud-banks—Merauke—The Dutch Settlement described—Its Wonderful Modernity—A Fierce Tribe, the Tugeri, now described for the first time—Their...

3. CHAPTER III

We sail to Thursday Island—A Rough Voyage in a Cattle-boat—A Glimpse of Thursday Island—The Wonderful Colour of its Waters—We reach Port Moresby—Contrast to the Scenery of Dutch...

4. CHAPTER IV

We start Inland—Friendly Natives but Hostile Mosquitoes—Bioto Creek—Bioto—Guest Houses—A splendid Game Region—Daily Migration of Flocks of Pigeons—Greedy Coast Natives—Carriers...

5. CHAPTER V

Journey continued—A Glorious Scarlet Creeper—Dinawa—Site for Camp selected—Building Camp—Native Assistance—Organisation for Scientific Work—Daily Routine—Teaching the Natives ho...

6. CHAPTER VI

The Drought affects our Work—Butterflies begin to Fail—Forest Fires—We descend to the St. Joseph River—A Temporary Camp—A Wonderful Native Suspension Bridge—River Scenery—Native...

7. CHAPTER VII

A Beautiful New Orchid discovered and described—Drought continues— Sufferings of the Natives—I practise as a Physician—Queer Native Diagnosis—Gaberio, an Intelligent Native, goe...

8. CHAPTER VIII

Period of Inaction at Port Moresby—Christmas in New Guinea—A Scratch Dinner—A Christmas Privilege for Cingalese to obtain Spirits—Curious Effect on One Individual—A Noteworthy C...

9. CHAPTER IX

Beginning of Furthest Journey into Unexplored Interior—The Everlasting Question of Carriers—Difficulties and Delays—Epa again—Curious Method of Water Supply—Mavai welcomes us ba...

10. CHAPTER X

My man Sam goes to the Kebea to collect—We go to the Coast again with our Specimens—A Dreadful Night in Bioto Creek—A Crocodile River—A Tempestuous Voyage to Thursday Island—Fev...

11. CHAPTER XI

Further into the Mountains—A Murder—The Settlement of the Blood Price—A Pig for a Life—Harry’s Further Adventures alone among Cannibals—Various other Murders—The Village of Aman...

12. CHAPTER XII

Still Higher in the Owen Stanley Range—The Road to Mafulu—Beauties of the Forest—The Hill Step—Curious Habit of Walking acquired in Abrupt Ground—Cold at High Altitudes—A New Ca...

13. CHAPTER XIII

A Dangerous Stream-Crossing—Babooni—Sunshine once more—Successful Work—Poor Fare—Messengers to Ekeikei—The Tree-Cabbage—Method of Cooking Tree-Cabbage—A Great Curiosity—Spiders’...

14. CHAPTER XIV

A Comfortless Voyage—A Forty-Mile Tramp along the Coast—Wonders of the Beach—Armies of Soldier-Crabs—A Crocodile River—A Dangerous Canoe Voyage—At Port Moresby—A Pathetic Incide...

15. CHAPTER XV

The Papuan at Home—His Good Points—Physical Characteristics— Ceremonial Dress—Coast and Hill Tribes—Differences—Local Distribution of the Rami or Petticoat—Its Decrease in Lengt...

16. CHAPTER XVI

A Short-lived Race—An Aged Man a Curiosity—Burial Customs—The Chief Mourner painted Black—Period of Mourning brief except for the Chief Mourner—No Belief in Natural Death—Poison...

17. CHAPTER XVII

18. CHAPTER XVIII

19. CHAPTER I

The Author’s many Journeys—New Guinea more interesting than all—The Second Largest Island in the World, and the last to guard its Secrets from Man—Its Vast Possibilities to the...

20. CHAPTER I

In the course of thirty years of almost continuous journeyings in both hemispheres, it has been my fortune to stray far from the beaten tracks and to know something of the spell...

21. CHAPTER II

Dutch New Guinea—The Coast—Unsavoury Mud-banks—Merauke—The Dutch Settlement described—Its Wonderful Modernity—A Fierce Tribe, the Tugeri, now described for the First Time—Their...

22. CHAPTER II

As we approached the shores of Dutch New Guinea, we first descried low-lying tracts of marshy land. To the water’s edge came tall trees loaded with orchids of the most brilliant...

23. CHAPTER III

We sail to Thursday Island—A Rough Voyage in a Cattle-boat—A Glimpse of Thursday Island—The Wonderful Colour of its Waters—We reach Port Moresby—Contrast to the Scenery of Dutch...

24. CHAPTER III

While I lay at Merauke on board the _Van Doorn_, the steamship _Moresby_ was signalled. On this I obtained a passage to Port Moresby, the seat of government in British New Guine...

25. CHAPTER IV

We start Inland—Friendly Natives but Hostile Mosquitoes—Bioto Creek— Bioto—Guest Houses—A Splendid Game Region—Daily Migration of Flocks of Pigeons—Greedy Coast Natives—Carriers...

26. CHAPTER IV

We left Yule Island at 10 A.M. in a small boat, accompanied by two Mission Fathers. Our baggage came on with us at the same time in a rough boat. We reached the mouth of the riv...

27. CHAPTER V

Journey continued—A Glorious Scarlet Creeper—Dinawa—Site for Camp selected—Building Camp—Native Assistance—Organisation for Scientific Work—Daily Routine—Teaching the Natives ho...

28. CHAPTER V

To return, however, to our journey. We crossed the Aculama by a missionary bridge, a rough structure made of two trees placed about a couple of feet apart, and laid with cross s...

29. CHAPTER VI

The Drought affects our Work—Butterflies begin to Fail—Forest Fires—We descend to the St. Joseph River—A Temporary Camp—A Wonderful Native Suspension Bridge—River Scenery—Native...

30. CHAPTER VI

As the days went on at Dinawa, there was no sign of any breaking up of the great drought, which began seriously to affect the success of our work. Butterflies grew scarce, and d...

31. CHAPTER VII

A Beautiful New Orchid discovered and described—Drought continues— Sufferings of the Natives—I practise as a Physician—Queer Native Diagnosis—Gaberio, an Intelligent Native, goe...

32. CHAPTER VII

Among the scientific specimens I brought back to Dinawa was a new _phallonopsis_ which I had discovered near Fa-lo-foida as we returned from our camp on the St. Joseph. This orc...

33. CHAPTER VIII

Period of Inaction at Port Moresby—Christmas in New Guinea—A Scratch Dinner—A Christmas Privilege for Cingalese to obtain Spirits—Curious Effect on One Individual—A Noteworthy C...

34. CHAPTER VIII

As there was really nothing to be done until the beginning of the year, we settled down at Port Moresby in some spare rooms which Sam, my Cingalese head-man, let me have in his...

35. CHAPTER IX

Beginning of Furthest Journey into Unexplored Interior—The Everlasting Question of Carriers—Difficulties and Delays—Epa again—Curious Method of Water Supply—Mavai welcomes us ba...

36. CHAPTER IX

On January 1, 1903, Harry and I left Port Moresby on board Captain Pym’s vessel, the _Whaup_. This took us to Yule Island, and from that point we proceeded to Pokama, on the mai...

37. CHAPTER X

My man Sam goes to the Kebea to collect—We go to the Coast again with our Specimens—A Dreadful Night in Bioto Creek—A Crocodile River—A Tempestuous Voyage to Thursday Island—Fev...

38. CHAPTER X

The day after I had settled the business with Kafulu, I sent Sam on to the Kebea to collect Lepidoptera, so that we might be working two different localities and elevations at t...

39. CHAPTER XI

Further into the Mountains—A Murder—The Settlement of the Blood Price—A Pig for a Life—Harry’s Further Adventures alone among Cannibals—Various other Murders—The Village of Aman...

40. CHAPTER XI

“_July 17th, 1903._—Some natives arrived from Deva-Deva and two from a village close by called Coo-lu-coo-lu. These natives are going for us to Ekeikei to fetch up our things, b...

41. CHAPTER XII

Still Higher in the Owen Stanley Range—The Road to Mafulu—Beauties of the Forest—The Hill Step—Curious Habit of Walking acquired in Abrupt Ground—Cold at High Altitudes—A New Ca...

42. CHAPTER XII

From the Kebea to Mafulu it was a five days’ journey along the most rugged, toilsome, and difficult path. At one point one has to traverse a ridge which turns in a half-circle,...

43. CHAPTER XIII

A Dangerous Stream-Crossing—Babooni—Sunshine once more—Successful Work— Poor Fare—Messengers to Ekeikei—The Tree-Cabbage—Method of Cooking Tree-Cabbage—A Great Curiosity—Spiders...

44. CHAPTER XIII

From our camp at Mafulu a march of from five to six hours brought us to Foula. On our way we rested at a little village, one of those belonging to the Foula people, but situated...

45. CHAPTER XIV

A Comfortless Voyage—A Forty-Mile Tramp along the Coast—Wonders of the Beach—Armies of Soldier-Crabs—A Crocodile River—A Dangerous Canoe Voyage—At Port Moresby—A Pathetic Incide...

46. CHAPTER XIV

At Pokama we got on board a vessel very heavily laden with sandalwood. I did not notice how perilously deep she was in the water until after we had put to sea. This promised a v...

47. CHAPTER XV

The Papuan at Home—His Good Points—Physical Characteristics—Ceremonial Dress—Coast and Hill Tribes—Differences—Local Distribution of the Rami or Petticoat—Its Decrease in Length...

48. CHAPTER XV

My object in visiting New Guinea, as the reader already knows very well, was not to prosecute the proper study of mankind, according to Mr. Alexander Pope, but it was impossible...

49. CHAPTER XVI

A Short-lived Race—An Aged Man a Curiosity—Burial Customs—The Chief Mourner painted Black—Period of Mourning brief except for the Chief Mourner—No Belief in Natural Death—Poison...

50. CHAPTER XVI

The Papuans are not a long-lived race. The mountain people die off about forty: at Googooli, high up on the mountains, we saw one very old man, who may have been sixty years of...

51. CHAPTER XVII

52. CHAPTER XVII

The intelligent observer of New Guinea cannot fail to recognise that the country presents a vast unopened field for the development of British trade. Many sources of wealth are...

53. CHAPTER XVIII

54. CHAPTER XVIII

New Guinea is remarkable for its paucity of mammals and its richness in birds. As we have already noted, at least 770 different species of birds are known, and to these doubtles...