Part 1

SALADS

TWO HUNDRED RECIPES FOR MAKING SALADS WITH THIRTY RECIPES FOR DRESSINGS _and_ SAUCES

BY OLIVE M. HULSE

“_Gasteria is the Tenth Muse; she presides over the enjoyments of Taste._” +Brillat-Savarin.+

THE HOPEWELL PRESS +One Hundred and Fifty Michigan Avenue+ CHICAGO, U. S. A.

Copyright 1910 +By Olive M. Hulse+

Second Edition, 1911

_=Preface=_

_For many years it has been the hobby of the author to collect salad recipes of all kinds, and through the courtesy of the chefs of some of the best cuisines in the country, she has been able to accumulate a great many new and attractive recipes which never before have been made public._

_Out of this voluminous collection, she has selected two hundred of the choicest. These, with the thirty different dressings and sauces brought into this little volume, have been fully and satisfactorily tested. It is the hope of the author that the result of her efforts will meet the general want in a practical and useful way._

_=Contents=_

Page Preface 5 Contents 6 Salad Lore 7 Salads 15 Alligator Pear Salad 17 Anchovy Salad 17 Apple Salad 17 Apple and Cheese Salad 17 Apple and Nut Salad 18 Asparagus Salad 18 Asparagus Points with Tomato 18 Asparagus with Vinaigrette Sauce 18 Artichoke and Tomato Salad 18 Artichoke and Onion Salad 19 Banana Salad 19 Banana and Grapefruit Salad 19 Bean Salad 20 Beet Salad 20 Beet and String Bean Salad 20 Beet and Potato Salad 20 Bermuda Onion Salad 21 Bleeding Heart Salad 21 Bird’s Nest Salad 21 Boiled Beef Salad 22 Bologna Salad (German Salad) 22 Brussels Sprouts Salad 22 Cabbage Salad 23 Cabbage Salad No. 2 23 Carrot Salad 23 Cauliflower Salad 24 Celery Salad 24 Chantecler Salad 24 Chatelaine Salad 25 Cheese Salad 25 Cherry Salad 25 Chestnut Salad 25 Chicken Salad 26 Chicken Salad No. 2 26 Chicken Salad No. 3 27 Chicken Salad No. 4 27 Chicken in Aspic 28 Chicory Salad 29 Chiffonade Salad 29 Cold Slaw 29 Combination Salad 29 Combination Salad No. 2 30 Combination Salad No. 3 30 Crab Salad 30 Crab Salad en Coquille 31 Cream Salad 31 Cucumber Salad 31 Cucumber Salad No. 2 31 Cucumber and Celery Salad 32 Cucumbers and Cream 32 Cucumber Francaise Salad 32 Cucumber and Onion Salad 33 Dainty Salad 33 Dandelion Salad 34 Egg Salad 34 Egg Salad No. 2 35 Egg Salad No. 3 35 Eggs au Cresson 35 Egg Lily Salad 36 Egg Plant Salad 36 Endive Salad 36 English Salad 37 Farmer Salad 37 Fish Salad 37 Frank’s Bachelor Salad 38 French Endive Salad 38 Fruit Salad 38 Fruit Salad No. 2. 38 Fruit Salad No. 3 39 Fruit Salad, Alice 39 Fruit Salad served in Apple Shells 39 German Salad 40 German Apple Cup 40 Grape Salad 40 Grapefruit Salad 41 Grapefruit en Surprise 41 Green Pepper Salad 41 Green Pepper and Potato Salad 41 Ham Salad 42 Herring Salad 42 Herring Salad No. 2 43 Hickory Nut Salad 43 Mrs. Hulse’s Favorite Salad 44 Ideal Salad 44 Italian Salad 45 Italian Salad No. 2 45 Japan Radish Salad 45 Jellied Chicken Salad 46 Jellied Chicken and Celery Salad 46 Jellied Egg Salad 47 Jellied Fruit Salad 47 Jellied Tomato Salad 48 Jellied Tomato and Cucumbers 48 Jellied Veal Salad 49 Kentucky Salad 49 Kohlrabi Salad 49 Lamb Mint Salad 50 Last-Minute Salad (quickly made) 50 Lemon Salad 50 Lettuce Salad 50 Lettuce and Bacon Salad 51 Lettuce and Cucumber Salad 51 Lettuce and Onion Salad 51 Lettuce and Tomato Salad 51 Lettuce and Tomato Salad No. 2 52 Lettuce and Spring Onion Salad 52 Lettuce Salad (stuffed) 52 Lima Bean Salad 52 Liver Salad 53 Lobster Salad 53 Lobster Salad No. 2 53 Lobster Salad No. 3 54 Log Cabin Salad 54 Macedoine Salad 55 Mayonnaise of Oysters 55 Mayonnaise of Fresh Lobster 55 Melon and Cucumber Salad 55 Mixed Salad 56 Mock Pineapple Salad 56 New Century Salad 56 Normandy Salad 56 Nut Salad 57 Nut and Cabbage Salad 57 Nut and Celery Salad 57 Nut and Orange Salad 58 Orange Salad 58 Orange Salad No. 2 58 Onion Salad 59 Othello Salad 59 Oyster Plant Salad 59 Pear Salad 59 Pecan Salad 60 Pepper Salad 60 Pepper Salad No. 2 60 Pineapple Salad 60 Pineapple Salad No. 2 61 Pineapple and Grapefruit Salad 61 Pineapple and Lettuce Salad 61 Potato Salad 62 Potato Salad No. 2 62 Potato and Cress Salad 62 Potato and Egg Salad 63 Prune Salad 63 Prune and Nut Salad 63 Radish Salad 63 Radish Salad No. 2 64 Raisin Salad 64 Ribbon Salad 64 Romaine Salad 64 Roquefort Salad 65 Salmon Salad 65 Salmon Salad No. 2 65 Salmon Salad Jellied 66 Sardines in Jelly 66 Sardine Salad 67 Scrambled Egg Salad 67 Scottish Salad 67 Shad Roe Salad 68 Sheldon Salad 68 Sherry Salad 69 Shrimp Salad 69 South Shore Country Club Salad 69 Southern Salad 70 Southern Salad No. 2 70 Spanish Salad 70 Spinach Salad 71 String Bean Salad 71 Summer Salad 71 Sunday Night Salad 72 Sweetbread Salad 72 Sweetbread Salad No. 2 72 Sweetbread Salad No. 3 73 Sweet Potato Salad 73 Symphony Salad 73 Tomato Jelly Salad 74 Tomato Salad 74 Tomato and Cauliflower Salad 74 Tomato and Celery Salad 75 Tomato and Corn Salad 75 Tomato and Cucumber Salad 75 Tomato and Grapefruit Salad 76 Tomato and Lettuce Salad 76 Tongue Salad 76 Transparent Salad 77 Variety Salad 77 Veal Salad 78 Vegetable Salad 78 Venison Salad 78 Virginia Ham Salad 79 Waldorf Salad 79 Waldorf Salad No. 2 79 Waldorf Salad No. 3 80 Water Cress Salad 80 White Aspic 80 White Salad 80 Wilted Lettuce 81 Wolcott Hotel Salad 81 Yellow Tomato Salad 81 Zebra Salad 81 Dressings and Sauces 85 Bacon Sauce 85 Bacon Fat Sauce 85 Banana Dressing 85 Boiled Dressing 86 Bummer’s Custard 86 Cream Dressing 86 Chiffonade Dressing 86 Chive Dressing 87 Epicures’ Delight Sauce 87 French Dressing 87 French Dressing No. 2 87 French Dressing with Fruit Juices 88 Fruit Dressing 88 Garlic Dressing 88 Hollandaise Sauce 89 Maraschino Dressing 89 Mayonnaise Dressing 89 Mayonnaise Dressing No. 2 90 Mayonnaise Boiled 91 Mayonnaise Boiled No. 2 91 Onion Dressing 91 Pineapple Sauce 92 Ravigote Sauce 92 Red Dressing 92 Red Mayonnaise 92 Remoulade Sauce 93 Ripe Olive Dressing 93 Roquefort Dressing 93 Russian Sauce 93 Vinaigrette Sauce 94 Vinaigrette Sauce With Egg 94

_=Salad Lore=_

Nebuchadnezzar, king of Babylon, is supposed to be the inventor of salads. Because of his fondness for salad plants he was accused of eating grass, and, like most originals, was considered a “crank.”

The “bitter herbs” of the Paschal Feast of which we read in sacred scripture, was nothing more nor less than a salad. It consisted of lettuce, dandelion, camomile and mint, combined with oil and vinegar.

From the Oriental countries has descended our taste for salads. “A lodge in a garden of cucumbers” in the sultry eastern lands was a haven of rest indeed. In those days cucumbers and melons were among the greatest luxuries.

The Greeks were noted for their fondness of lettuce, which they served at the end of a repast. The Romans, always the imitators of the Greeks, followed their example in this respect, but later they used lettuce with egg as a first course, in order to stimulate the appetite. In default of lettuce, they ate endive. The narcotic value of lettuce was recognized by ancient physicians, and the Greek physician, Galen, termed it the “philosopher’s, or wise man’s herb.” The herb doctors prescribed the spring salad for the sick, while the superstitious extolled it as a preventive of disease and decay. Queen Catherine of England, a great lover of the salad, could not procure it in London, and her royal husband, Henry, had to send to the Netherlands for a gardener to come and cultivate the necessary plants.

Many Americans have the erroneous idea that foreign nations excel in salad-making. France for a long time lead in this delicate art; we are told that the artist preeminent in salad-making was the Frenchman, Chevelier Gaudet, who fled to England at the outbreak of the French Revolution, and without friends or fortune, realized a handsome property from his knowledge of salad-making alone. He considered the mixing of a salad as so serious and dignified a profession that he never approached the salad bowl except in full gala costume, with his sword by his side. His services were in great demand by the nobility, in order that their guests might be regaled with one of his creations.

Alexander Dumas could mix a salad as thrilling as some of his great romances. But France does not possess, nor can she import, the great variety of delicious fruits and vegetables obtainable in our own land.

By far the best recipes are those which have originated in the United States, and almost without exception, they are alike inexpensive, elegant, delicious, and healthful. Some of our American men have produced wonderful masterpieces in salads.

Delicacy in food belongs to the cultured and salad-making is an art which all may covet. No woman’s list of accomplishments is complete which does not include the mastery of the secret of the perfect salad. This secret lies in the dressing, and those who have conquered it are to be envied. It is their privilege to add to the plainest dinner a desirable dish, stimulating to the fancy and giving zest to the appetite of even the most fastidious.

Among epicures the luncheon or dinner party of today does not pass as an unqualified success which does not include a new salad, and yet it is as difficult to devise a new salad, as it is to invent a new idea. It is in the combinations that the true skill of the artist is shown.

The real value of the salad plants was unknown until some fortunate soul discovered the happy combination of oil and vinegar. Plain, common vinegar is for the plebeian, but mixed with oil, may give us a combination rivaling the ambrosia of the gods.

The salad stands alone in this particular: It may be served on all occasions, and to any class of people. It is one of the most delightful and healthful of Heaven’s gifts to man. A modern authority tells us that “salads refresh without weakening, and make people younger.” While this statement may be accepted with the proverbial grain of salt, it is nevertheless true that salad plants are better tonics and blood purifiers than druggists’ compounds.

Our food, like everything else, changes with the times. The favorite dishes of our grandmothers are not recognizable today, so altered and multiplied have they become; while on the other hand, all kinds of fruits have been brought into use in order to meet the demand for variety in salads. The climate varies so with the seasons, that we need an almost constant change of food. The highly-seasoned, rich salad may be very acceptable during the winter months, while during the hot weather there is a craving for the more delicate and refreshing salad.

We eat too few green salads; we should cultivate a taste for them and learn to prefer them to more hearty foods. Vinegar, pepper, salt, and mustard prevent the fermentation of fresh vegetables when eaten, but of course they should be used judiciously. The best oil aids digestion and is also most healthful, being often prescribed by physicians for disordered livers. It is a mistake to think that a good salad will produce dyspepsia. If a salad be eaten slowly and in moderation, its effect is wholesome and nutritious.

Strange as it may appear, there is no absolute rule to be given for blending a salad sauce, but we cannot refrain from giving Sydney Smith’s oft-quoted recipe for a Winter Salad dressing, which some of the readers may not have:

To make this condiment your poet begs, The pounded yellow of two hard boiled eggs; Two boiled potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve, Smoothness and softness to the salad give. Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, And, half suspecting, animate the whole. Of mordant mustard add a single spoon,-- Distrust the condiment that bites too soon; But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault, To add a double quantity of salt; Four times the spoon with oil from Lucca crown, And twice with vinegar procured from town; And, lastly, o’er the flavoured compound toss, A magic soupcon of anchovy sauce. Oh, green and glorious! Oh, herbaceous treat! ’Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat. Back to the world he’d turn his fleeting soul, And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl. Serenely full, the epicure would say, Fate cannot harm me, I have dined today.

In delightful contrast, a modern epicure, Mr. Wallace Rice, gives us the following recipe for a French dressing, which is our notion of the perfect salad dressing:

Let luscious golden oil its body be, Wholesome and sweet and clear; its quickening soul Vinegar, child of mellow wine, but dole Its sharpness circumspectly, not too free; The sacred salt its mind--a pinch or three, No more; and for its wit take pretty toll Of bright cayenne, to vivify a whole, So blended, we are hungered as we see.

The which with some fresh herb--lettuce for choice-- Is tired, until each dry and crispy leaf In this new gloss and savor doth rejoice-- Tired deftly, lest untasted, to our grief, Aught should bedew the dish. Due thanks then voice To Him who made this of all salads, chief.

There is no fixed rule for the mixing of salads. If one possesses a little originality and sufficient tact to discriminate between “not too much,” and “not too little,” of salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, he can allow fantasy to have some slight sway in the salad bowl, and there is hardly a limit to the variety of salads that can be made during the summer.

The majority of people insist upon making a salad dressing in one particular way, but it should be borne in mind that tastes are widely dissimilar, and that they cannot always be depended upon to be the same. The danger is that in always using the same kind of dressing, the acute sense of taste will be lost.

One’s individual taste should not govern the making of a salad, as this fondness for a certain condiment may not be shared by every one. A vigorous, athletic person is able to eat and enjoy a salad that would well-nigh strangle a person of less strenuous habits.

A good salad cannot be made from poor materials. However limited they may be, they must be of the best quality: Green vegetables fresh and crisp, the meat or fish well seasoned and cold; the oil pure and sweet. One can always rely upon the best quality of olive oil for salads, but there are those who prefer the flavor of smoked bacon fat. This is particularly true of people living in hot climates.

Of course salt is indispensable for seasoning and flavoring. To a Frenchman or Italian a salad would not be a salad without the onion or garlic flavor, and indeed, this pungency is commonly enjoyed even by those who would not knowingly partake of a dish thus flavored. The onion should be mild, and its presence cleverly hidden, for its unenviable reputation might cause a fastidious guest to refuse a really delicious salad.

Our best authorities on salad-making are shocked at the common practice of using a mayonnaise dressing on fruit salads of any kind. They would invariably take the dressings made with fruit juices. Fish, fowl, and meats would take the mayonnaise, while the vegetable salads almost without exception take the French dressing.

Of the uncooked vegetables lettuce is preeminently the first in favor. It is the king of salads, and whatever else is used, lettuce usually forms part of the salad dish to make it complete. It is essential that leaf salads and celery be dry. Oil and water do not mix, and if the salad is wet, the dressing will run off and also lose its flavor. They should be dried carefully by shaking in a napkin.

One should handle salads with care, and gently. A good rule to follow is to run the fork and spoon down the sides of the dish, and then lightly tire the salad with an upward movement, allowing it to mix as it falls back.

The common habit of decorating all kinds of salads with hard boiled eggs, gives a sameness of appearance and often produces a lack of harmony. They are out of place when used with meats, except as they form a part of the dressing, but they may be appropriately used with fowl or fish.

A vegetable salad may be made a thing of artistic beauty, and the pleasing art of table decorations, so happily possessed by American housekeepers, gives a splendid opportunity for the salad-artist to display taste and originality in the arrangement of this most ornamental of all dishes. Salads badly prepared are an abomination.