Chapter 9

FROM LUZ AND ST. SAUVEUR TO BAGNÈRES DE LUCHON.

A smiling valley--Lourdes again--The chapel in the crypt--St. Peter's statue--Burnished toes--Solemn quietude--Preparing for the great pilgrimage--"Ornamented" crosses--Mr. Sydney's new vocation, "Guide, Philosopher, and Friend"--Bigorre again--An open-air concert --Harmonious echoes--Paying through the nose--The fête at Payole--Sport à la française--Costumes--The view from the Col d'Aspin--Arreau--Quaint houses--La Chapelle de St. Exupère--A whining "gardien"--Eglise de Notre Dame--The river Neste--Hôtel de France--Bordères--Avajan--Louderville--Oxslips and cowslips--Wild narcissus--Col de Peyresourde--The view--Garin--Cazaux--St. Aventin--Lovely avenues--Our destination