Chapter 4

ARGELÈS.

Road _v_. rail--Scenes, sublime and ridiculous--Hôtel d'Angleterre--Questions and "The Argelès Shepherd's Reply"--A forbidden path--The ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous--Argelès church--Route Thermale--Ges--The tree in the path--"A regular fix"--Serres--"It's a stupid foal that doesn't know its own mother" --A frothing stream--A fine view--Pigs in clover--Salluz --Ourous--Contented villagers--The high road--The bridge on the Pierrefitte road--Advice to sketchers--"Spring's Bitters and Sweets"--The "witch of the hills"--Large green lizards--"Jeannette's Lamb"--Round the Argelès valley--Château de Beaucens--Villelongue-- Soulom--The old church--Hôtel de la Poste, Pierrefitte--St. Savin--The verger and the ancient church--Cagots--"The Organ's Tale"--St. Savin's tomb--The Château de Miramont--Jugged Izard--Market-day--Sour bread and the remedy--Arrival of the first parcel.