Chapter 36

Hotels.--De Londres, || De Escurra, Anglais, De Arrese, De Berdejo, &c.

SALÉCHAN.--A village in the Garonne valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, and station on the Montrejeau-Luchon line for Ste. Marie (baths) and Siradan (baths).

SALIES.--A town on the river of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 10 miles from Orthez, the nearest station.

It is celebrated for its salt springs; and Bayonne hams are said to owe their fine (?) flavour to the use of the salt produced from them.

Hotels.--Du Cheval Blanc, De France, De Paris.

SAZOS.--A small village near St. Sauveur, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, below the hamlet of Grust. For description of church, &c., refer to Chapter VII.

SIRADAN.--A small bathing resort in the valley of same name, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, with a bathing establishment and hotel in one building, 2 miles from Saléchan station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line. The springs contain sulphuret of lime and bicarbonate of iron. They have a similar effect to those of Ste. Marie (1 mile distant), but tend to excite more strongly. The water stands bottling well.

SOULOM.--A small village at the foot of the peak of same name, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte, possessing a curious old church. See Chapter IV.

TARBES.--A large town on the Adour, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. Station on the railway between Pau and Toulouse, and junction for the Bigorre and Morcenz lines. Cavalry barracks, cathedral, &c. Buffet at the station. See Chapter III.

Hotels.--De la Paix, France, Commerce.

URRUGNE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 2-1/2 miles from St. Jean de Luz.

USTARITZ.--The name of two villages, formerly separate, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 8-3/4 miles from Bayonne, on the carriage-road thence _via_ Elizondo to Pampeluna (63 miles).

VALCABRÈRE.--A small village in the Haute-Garonne, 2 miles from Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line, celebrated for the Church of St. Just, a venerable pile in the vicinity.

VENASQUE.--A small and prosperous town in Spain, 9 hours from Luchon (21 miles) by the _Port_ of the same name. There are some baths similar in their uses to those of Luchon, fed by sulphurous springs at some distance from the town, and 2-1/2 hours nearer Luchon.

Excellent accommodation can be obtained at the Casa san Mimi (Antonio Saora) for travellers.

VERNET-LES-BAINS (2050 ft.), a bathing resort situated in a hollow in the Eastern Pyrenees, 7 miles from the nearest railway station.

There are several springs which supply the large Bathing Establishment and the smaller Thermes Mercader. The water is largely charged with sulphate of lime, and possesses properties similar to other waters of that type. It is especially useful in affections of the air-passages and skin complaints, and is more or less exciting according to the springs. The climate is mild, and therefore Vernet has some reputation as a winter resort, being very little colder than Amélie (to which refer in Appendix).

Hotels.--Des Commandants (in the bathing establishment), Du Parc, Ibrahim Pacha et des Bains, Du Canigou, &c.

Villas furnished to be let.

Carriages and Horses.

Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Clubs, &c.

Guide.--Michael Nou.

Chief Excursions:--

The Canigou (9144 ft.)--11 hours up and down. Guide recommended, also provisions. Horses 10 frs., guide 10 frs. Horses can go within a mile of the top, from which the view is splendid. The ascent is long but not difficult.

The Fountain des Esquereyres.--_Via_ Castell, 1/2 hour; a pleasant walk.

Tour de Goa.--4 hours up and down. An interesting battlemented tower, with a fine view.

Vallée de Sahorre.--3 hours there and back; an enjoyable trip.

Cascade de Cadi.--6 hours there and back; guide recommended.

The Abbey of Canigou.--2-1/2 hours there and back; guide unnecessary. An interesting ruin.

Vieuzac.--A suburb of Argelès, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, possessing a donjon tower. The station on the line from Lourdes is called Argelès-Vieuzac.

Villelongue.--A small village in the Argelès valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte. See Chapter IV.

APPENDIX B

RAILWAY INFORMATION AND SKELETON ROUTES TO THE CHIEF RESORTS IN THE PYRENEES.

For the ordinary traveller a "Continental Bradshaw" is as useful a railway guide as any, especially if his knowledge of French is limited, but the time tables published by Chaix and Cie. are also most excellent in every way. Of these the best and most expensive is the "Livret-Chaix Continental," price 2 frs, containing all continental railways and a complete index. A cheaper time table is the "Indicateur des Chemins de Fer," published by the same firm, price 1/2 fr., which gives the French railways only, with map and index. Besides these, all the principal lines have time tables of their own, price 30 cents.

It is advisable, when people are travelling as a party, that they should have their luggage all weighed together, presenting the whole of the tickets at the same time; this not only frequently saves expense, but, as the number of persons is marked by the luggage clerk on their baggage receipt, it is a guarantee that each has bought a ticket, which saves trouble if one should happen to be lost.

When people are stopping the night _en route_ at a place, and do not wish to take their registered luggage to the hotel, only to have to bring it back for re-registration next day, they have simply to leave it in the station, and when starting again on the morrow to tell the porter--when they give him the baggage ticket--that it was left overnight (for which the charge is 1d. per package), whereupon he will register it without further trouble.

If a ticket is taken for the wrong station (by mistake) and the luggage is accordingly registered wrongly too, the passenger must represent the same to the station-master and ask him to allow a change to be made; if there is not time to do this the luggage clerk may take the responsibility--if the urgency of the case is made _argentiferously_ clear--but the plan is not recommended. _It is important to know_ that if a traveller misses his train he _must present_ his _ticket_ at the ticket office to be _restamped_ in order to make it again available--otherwise it is liable to be forfeited.

Travellers will also save themselves much trouble by settling which hotel they intend to go to, before arriving at their destination; and it must be fully understood that for the carrying of small parcels taken into the carriage, the aid of porters can _never_ be counted on. See Chapter XI.

Luggage not exceeding 30 kilogrammes (_i.e._ 66 lbs. Eng.) is carried free; 1d. being charged for the registration thereof.

* * * * *

_Routes from London to Paris._

_Route_ 1.--_Via_ Dover, Calais, Montreuil, Abbeville, Amiens, Claremont, and Creil: the quickest route.

_Route_ 2.--_Via_ Folkestone, Boulogne, Montreuil, &c. as above.

_Route_ 3.--_Via_ Newhaven, Dieppe, Rouen, Gaillon, Mantes, and Poissy: the least expensive route.

_From Liverpool to Bordeaux._

_Route_ 4.--Per Pacific Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, fortnightly, sailing on Wednesdays; average passage 2-1/2 days.

_From London to Bordeaux._

_Route_. 5.--Per General Steam Navigation Co.'s steamers, average passage 3 to 4 days.

_Route_ 6.--_Via_ Weymouth, Cherbourg, Caen, Alençon, Le Mans, Tours and Angoulême. _From Paris to Bordeaux._

_Route_ 7.--_Via_ Orleans, Blois, St. Pierre les Corps (for Tours), Poitiers, Angoulême, and Libourne.

_From Paris to Bagnères de Bigorre._

_Route_ 8.--_Via_ Orléans, Nexon, Perigueux, Les Eyzies, Libos, Agen, Lectoure, Auch, Mirande, and Tarbes: the most direct route from Paris to the Pyrénées.

_From Paris to Toulouse._

_Route_ 9.--_Via_ Issoudun, Argenton, Limoges, Nexon, Brives, Rocamadour, Assier, Figeac, Villefranche, and Tessonières: the quickest and best route for the Pyrénées Orientales, and resorts of Vernet, Amélie, &c.

_From Bordeaux to Arcachon_.

_Route_ 10.--_Viâ_ Gazinet, Facturé, Lamothe, and La Teste.

_From Bordeaux to Bagnères de Bigorre_.

_Route_ 11.--_Viâ_ Morcenx, Arjuzaux, Arengosse, Mont de Marsan, Aire, Vic-Bigorre, Tarbes, Salles, Adour, and Montgaillard: a longer route from Paris, by a few miles only, than Route 8.

_From Bordeaux to Biarritz_.

_Route_ 12.--_Viâ_ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Saint Geours, and Bayonne.

_From Bordeaux to Pau_.

_Route 13_.--_Viâ_ Ychoux, Morcenx, Dax, Puyoo, Orthez, Lacq, and Lescar.

_From Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Eux Chaudes_. _Route_ 14.--By carriage _viâ_ Gan, Louvie-Juzon, and Laruns.

_Route_ 15.--By rail _viâ_ Gan and Laruns, [Footnote: This railway was to be opened this year (1883).] and carriage from Laruns.

_From Pau to Lourdes_.

_Route_ 16.--_Viâ_ Coarraze-Nay, Montaut-Bétharram, and St. Pé.

_From Pau to Oloron_.

_Route_ 17.--_Viâ_ Gan and Belair.

_From Lourdes to Argelès_.

_Route_ 18.--_Viâ_ Soum, Lugagnan, and Boo-Silhen.

_From Lourdes to Pierrefitte_.

_Route_ 19.--_Viâ_ Soum, Lugagnan, Boo-Silhen and Argelès.

_From Lourdes to Cauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, Barèges, and Gavarnie_.

_Route_ 20.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or private carriage to Cauterets.

_Route_ 21.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by diligence or private carriage to Luz.

_Route_ 22.--By Route 19 to Pierrefitte, thence by similar conveyances to St. Sauveur.

_Route_ 23.--By Route 21 to Luz and continuation to Barèges.

_Route_ 24.--By Route 22 to St. Sauveur and continuation to Gavarnie.

_From Bagnères de Bigorre to Barèges_.

_Route_ 25.--By carriage _viâ_ Ste. Marie, Gripp, Tramesaïgues, and the Col de Tourmalet. This route is only open in midsummer.

_From Bagnères de Bigorre to Bagnères de Luchon_.

_Route_ 26.--By carriage _viâ_ Campan, Ste. Marie, Payole, Col d'Aspin, Arreau, Bordères, Col de Peyresourde, and Garin. Considered the finest drive in the Pyrenees.

_Route_ 27.--By rail _viâ_ Montgaillard, Tarbes, Montrejeau, Saléchan, Marignac, and Luchon. An exceedingly long round.

_From Bagneres de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges_.

_Route_ 27.--By carriage _viâ_ Cier, Marignac, Saléchan, Loures, and Labroquère.

_Route_ 28.--By train _viâ_ Marignac and Saléchan to Loures, and carriage thence to St. Bertrand. The rail continues from Loures to Montrejeau.

_From St. Bertrand to Montrejeau_.

_Route_ 29.--By carriage to Loures station, thence by train to Montrejeau.

_Route_ 30.--By carriage direct to Montrejeau.

_From Toulouse to Perpignan_.

_Route_ 31.--Via Castelnaudary, Carcassone, Narbonne, La Nouvelle, Salses, and Rivesaltes.

_From Perpignan to Amélie-les-Bains_.

_Route_ 32.--By diligence or carriage _viâ_ Pollestres, Le Boulou, and Le Pont de Ceret.

_From Perpignan to Molitg_.

_Route_ 33.--By rail _viâ_ Millas, Ille, Bouleternère, and Vinca, to Prades, thence by diligence or carriage _viâ_ Catlar to Molitg.

_From Perpignan to Vernet_.

_Route_ 34--Route 33 to Prades and coach to Vernet.

_Route_ 35--By rail _viâ_ Prades to Villefranche, and carriage thence to Vernet.

APPENDIX C.

SOME LOCAL PYRENEAN TERMS AND THEIR ENGLISH EQUIVALENTS.

_Artigue_, pasturage, prairie. _Barranque_, a deep hollow or ravine. _Borde, Bourdette_, farm-house, barn, cot. _Caire, Quaire, Quaïrat_, a cone-shaped peak, rocky and bare. _Canaou_, narrow ravine worn by the snow. _Cap_, mountain tip. _Clot_, a valley without exit. _Colline_, a small valley, a dale. _Cortal, Courtaou_, sheep-fold, sheep-pen. _Couila, Couillade_, shepherd's cabin, hut, fertile vale. _Estibe_, pasturage, feeding-ground. _Estibère_, a well-pastured mountain. _Fitte_, pointed summit. _Montagne_, feeding-ground (on a mountainside). _Neste_, mountain torrent. _Orrhy, Orri_, shepherd's hut. _Oule_, a bowl-shaped valley. _Pech, Pouey, Puy_, a mountain of no great height, in the Western Pyrenees; but also applied to loftier summits, in the Eastern range. _Pène, Peña, Penne_, pointed rock. _Peyre_, a large crag. _Piche, Pisse_, a cascade waterfall. _Pinède, Pinade_, pine forest, site of pine forest. _Pique_, synonymous with _Fitte_, pointed summit, peak. _Pla, Plan_, a valley with level meadows. _Prade, Pradère_, similar to _Estibe_, feeding-ground, meadow. _Raillère_, steep decline, avalanche channel. _Roque_, a mountain, steep and covered with crags. _Sarrat, Serre, Serrère_, a sharp-toothed crest, backbone of mountain. _Sarre_, a small hill. _Séoube, Scube_, wood, forest. _Tausse, Truc, Truque, Tuc_, a steep and lofty peak with large buttresses.

The _Defiles_ and _Passes_ of the mountains for which the word _Col_ is generally applied, bear many other names, of which the following, with their special significations, are the chief:--

_Core_, a pass on a side range or small lateral chain. _Fourgue, Fourquette, Hourque, Hourquette_, generally applied to passes on the small side ranges. _Pas_, a pass difficult of approach. _Port_, a pass in the principal chain. _Porteil, Portillon, Pourtet_, passes in the principal or side chains.

APPENDIX D.

GENERAL INFORMATION, AND TABLES OF METRES, GRAMMES, DEGREES, &c. &c.

It would be difficult to speak with _too_ much weight on the subject of _bread_, especially where invalids are concerned, and that article in the Pyrenees is essentially _bad_--we might almost say _unfit for food_. With the exception of Bagnères de Bigorre--and then only when specially ordered--and _in the season_, Bagnères de Luchon, the bread throughout the mountain resorts is abominably sour. Travellers _do_ eat it, because they have no other, but to invalids it is positively nauseous. In our opinion it is the only real drawback to enjoying a Pyrenean trip! But it would be foolish to bring it into such prominence when we have all along recommended a stay amid these lovely scenes, unless we could suggest a remedy, and the remedy is as simple as, with us, it proved complete. There are several bakers in Pau selling bread as good as one could wish for, and doubtless any of these would be glad to meet the wishes of travellers; in our case we addressed ourselves to Mr. Otto Kern, Vienna Bakery, Rue de la Préfecture, Pau, requesting him to supply us with a certain quantity of bread daily, at whatever place we might be. We had previously decided on our route on broad lines, so that a postcard as a rule was sufficient to give notice of a change in our address; while if a sudden alteration occurred in our plans, a half-franc telegram told him the news, and _our bread_ never failed to be at the _right_ place on the _right day_. The bread sufficient for four people, carriage thereof, and a trifle for commission (i.e. paper and trouble) cost on an average 2 frs. 50 cents per diem, which was a little over 80 centimes each. Perhaps in time hotel-keepers will resort to this method; in fact, we were assured that it would be so; but in the meantime every traveller is recommended to do so on his own account; though in all other respects he will find most of the hotels throughout the mountains very well found. When once in the Pyrenees, after Pau had been left behind, we found an average price of 10 frs. per day--perhaps a shade less--was what our hotel expenses amounted to; including--coffee and milk, bread and butter, eggs _or_ kidneys _or_ chops for the first breakfast; table d'hôte luncheon and table d'hôte dinner, with a good bedroom not higher than 2nd floor. These prices must be understood as only those of a spring or autumn tour--_out of the season_--and rather easier than a traveller would pay at many of the hotels if he arrived without having previously written and made terms. _We_ invariably wrote, and at all the hotels marked thus || received every attention, good rooms, good food, and _dry beds_.

It is difficult to give a hard-and-fast amount per diem as to expenditure, as it depends so much on the drives, excursions, &c.; as above stated 10 frs. per day paid all hotel expenses (including _vin ordinaire_), and we consider that in the spring, with several excursions, and "a landau and four" for the principal drives--such as Bigorre to Luchon, Lourdes to St. Sauveur, St. Sauveur to Gavarnie, &c. &c.--25 frs. or £1 per day ought to cover the whole daily expense of each person. In the summer of course 35 frs., or even 40 frs., would be required for the same period. Horses and carriages are cheap in the spring, but even then a little judicious bargaining is required, as it is in nearly every transaction, in the Pyrenees.

Jam, marmalade, bloater-paste, and small luxuries of that kind, not excluding _whiskey_, are difficult to obtain, and it is well to take them all from Pau or Biarritz, wherever the start is made. Bagnères de Bigorre, chez M. Peltier, is fairly well supplied, but other resorts know not the sound of their names! It is also worth knowing that a system of "Parcels Post" is in operation, whereby any moderate-sized parcel can be dispatched from any station for 85 cents, and delivered at any place within reach of the railway or diligence; but it must be understood at the same time that _bread_ will in like manner be delivered _only_ where the railway or diligence runs; if travellers therefore go to places where there is no _official_ communication, they must depute some agent to receive letters or parcels where the diligence last stops, and then forward them by special messenger. This can be done of course, but it will prove costly.

The rate of postage is 2-1/2d. the 15 grammes (a shade over 1/2 oz.), and 2-1/2d. for every additional 15 grammes.

Money orders are issued at all the principal towns to which (see Appendix A) a post-office belongs.

Telegrams, 1/2 d = 5 cents, per word, the address being charged for the same as the rest; but no telegram can cost less than 50 centimes.

The rate to England is variable; usually 2-1/2 d. per word.

Money is reckoned at 25 frs. to the £1 English, and banknotes or gold will be accepted in nearly all hotels, and circular notes as well, at the larger resorts.

TABLE OF LITRES AND PINTS.

1/2 litre = 7/8 pint. 1 " = 1-3/4 pints. 2 litres = 3-1/2 pints. 4 " = 7 pints. 8 " = 7 quarts.

TABLES OF GRAMMES AND OUNCES.

29 grammes = 1 oz. 57 " = 2 oz. 86 " = 3 oz. 114 " = 4 oz. = 1/4 lb. 227 " = 8 oz. = 1/2 lb. 454 " = 16 oz. = 1 lb. 908 " = 32 oz. = 2 lbs. 1000 " = 35-1/5 oz. = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz. 1 kilogramme = 1000 grammes = 2 lbs. 3-1/5 oz.

TABLE OF CENTIMETRES AND INCHES.

100 centimetres = 1 metre = 39-1/3 inches; 1 centimetre = 2/5 inch as near as possible.

5 centimetres = 2 inches. 10 " = 4 " 15 " = 6 " 20 " = 8 " 25 " = 10 " 30 " = 12 " = 1 foot. 45 " = 18 " = 1-1/2 feet. 50 " = 20 " = 1 ft. 8 in. 60 " = 24 " = 2 feet. 90 " = 36 " = 3 feet. 100 " = 39-1/3 " = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in.

TABLE OF METRES AND FEET, FOR DETERMINING THE HEIGHT OF MOUNTAINS, &c.

1 metre = 3 ft. 3-1/3 in. as near as possible, without using decimals; but at this computation 2 inches are lost in every 25 metres, which however have been duly supplied in the following table, but the fractions omitted:--

Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in. Metres. Ft. in.. 1 = 3 3 26 = 85 4 140 = 459 4 2 = 6 7 27 = 88 7 150 = 492 2 3 = 9 10 28 = 91 10 160 = 524 11 4 = 13 1 29 = 95 2 170 = 557 9 5 = 16 5 30 = 98 8 175 = 574 3 6 = 19 8 35 = 114 10 180 = 590 7 7 = 22 11 40 = 131 2 190 = 623 4 8 = 26 3 45 = 147 7 200 = 656 3 9 = 29 6 50 = 164 1 300 = 984 4 10 = 32 9 55 = 180 5 400 = 1,312 6 11 = 36 1 60 = 196 10 500 = 1,640 7 12 = 39 4 65 = 213 3 600 = 1,968 8 13 = 42 7 70 = 229 7 700 = 2,296 9 14 = 45 11 75 = 246 1 800 = 2,624 10 15 = 49 2 80 = 262 6 900 = 2,953 0 16 = 52 5 85 = 278 10 1,000 = 3,281 1 17 = 55 9 90 = 295 3 2,000 = 6,562 2 18 = 59 0 95 = 311 8 3,000 = 9,843 3 19 = 62 3 1OO = 328 2 3,100 = 10,171 5 20 = 65 7 105 = 344 6 3,200 = 10,499 6 21 = 68 10 110 = 360 11 3,300 = 10,827 7 22 = 72 1 115 = 377 4 3,400 = 11,155 8 23 = 75 5 120 = 393 8 3,500 = 11,483 9 24 = 78 8 125 = 410 2 4,000 = 13,124 4 25 = 82 0 130 = 426 6

TABLE OF KILOMETRES AND MILES.

1 kilometre = 1,000 metres = 1,093 yards = 5/8 mile, as nearly as possible, without employing decimals; but at this computation the kilometre gains 11 yards, 40 kilometres gain 1/4 mile, and 160 kilometres gain 1 mile. This gain has been deducted in the following table, and all fractions less than 1/4 omitted:--

Kilos. Miles. Kilos. Miles.

1 = 5/8 19 = 11-3/4 2 = 1-1/4 20 = 12-1/4 3 = 2 30 = 18-1/2 4 = 2-1/2 40 = 24-3/4 5 = 3 50 = 31 6 = 3-3/4 60 = 37 7 = 4-1/4 70 = 43-1/4 8 = 5 80 = 55-3/4 9 = 5-1/2 100 = 62 10 = 6-1/4 120 = 74-1/4 11 = 7 160 = 99 12 = 7-1/2 200 = 123-3/4 13 = 8 300 = 185-1/2 14 = 8-3/4 320 = 198 15 = 9-1/4 400 = 247-1/2 16 = 10 500 = 309-1/4 17 = 10-1/2 1,000 = 618-3/4 18 = 11-1/4

COMPARISON TABLE OF THE CENTIGRADE AND FAHRENHEIT THERMOMETERS.

1° Centigrade = 1-4/5 Fahr.; 5° Cent. = 9° Fahr. It must be understood that, as the freezing-point of Centigrade is Zero and of Fahrenheit 32°, these 32° must be taken into account in all calculations above freezing-point: thus +5° Cent. are equivalent to a temperature of 41° Fahr.

Cent. Fahr. Cent. Fahr.

Below -15 = +3 17 = 63 Zero. -10 = +12 18 = 64 -5 = +21 19 = 65 0 = 32 Freezing-point. 20 = 67 1 = 34 25 = 76 2 = 36 30 = 85 3 = 37 35 = 94 4 = 39 35-1/2 = 95 Blood heat. 5 = 41 40 = 103 6 = 43 45 = 112 7 = 45 50 = 121 8 = 47 55 = 130 9 = 48 60 = 139 10 = 50 65 = 148 11 = 52 70 = 156 12 = 54 75 = 165 13 = 55 80 = 174 13-1/2 = 56 Temperate. 85 = 183 14 = 57 90 = 192 15 = 59 95 = 201 16 = 61 100 = 210 Boiling-point.

INDEX.

A.

Abbé's song, the, A dirty avalanche, A "double stroke" (St. Sauveur), Adour, basin of, Allée d'Etigny (Luchon), de Barcugna, des Bains, Verte (Barèges), Allées de Cambasque, Amélie-les-Bains, excursions from, general information, hotels at, &c., Amoy, Valley of Ten Thousand Rocks, Ancient church of the Templars (Luz), _Anemone vernalis_, scarlet, wood, A new "diet of worms," An excited dog-fancier, An extraordinary detachment, Anglêt, Appendix A, B, C, D, Aran, valley of, Arboust, valley of, Arcachon, Arcachon, excursions from, general information, hotels at, Argelès, drive round valley of, excursions from, hotels at, valley of, Argelès-sur-Mer, Arles-sur-Tech, Arlos, Arreau, hotels at and excursions from, Arrens, excursions from, hotels at, Arrieuzé (river), Arroudet, cascade of, Artigues-Tellin, Arudy, Ascent of the Col de Riou, Ascent of the Pic de Bergons, Aspe, valley of, Aspin, col of, Asphodel, Assat, Asté, Atalaya, cape, Auberge du Lys (Luchon), Auch, road of, Aure, valley of, Avajan, Avalanche, a dirty, Avenue de Salut, Ax, road of,

B.

Bagnères de Bigorre to Bagnères de Luchon Bagnères de Luchon to Barèges Bagnères de Bigorre Bagnères de Bigorre, bathing establishment of Bagnères de Bigorre, excursions from Bagnères de Bigorre, hotels of Bagnères de Bigorre, springs of Bagnères de Luchon to Montrejeau Bagnères de Luchon to St. Bertrand de Comminges Bagnères de Luchon Bagnères de Luchon, baths of Bagnères de Luchon, casino of Bagnères de Luchon, excursions from Bagnères de Luchon, general information Bagnères de Luchon, hotels at Ballooning Barbe de Bouch Barèges " bathing establishment of " excursions from " hotels of Barousse, valley of Basin of Adour " Echez Baths of Amélie " Barèges " Capvern " César " Grand Pré " Hontalade " Le Pré " Luchon " Luz " Marie Thérèse " Mauhourat " Molitg " OEufs " Panticosa " Pauze Nouveaux " " Vieux " Petit St. Sauveur " Preste " Raillère " Ste. Marie (near Luchon) " St. Sauveur " Salut " Santé " Siradan " Vernet Baudéan Bayonne " general information " hotels at Beaucens, castle of Bédat Bee orchids Béhobie Bélesten Bernadette Soubirons Bétharram " bridge near Betpouey (Barèges) Biarritz " amusements of " Cape Atalaya at " general information " hotels at " Port Vieux at Bidart Bidassoa Bielle Bilhères Billères (Pau) Billères plains of, " woods of, Bious-Artigues, Bishop's arrival, the, Bizanos, Black Forest (Bosost), Black Prince, Boo-Silhen, Bordeaux to Arcachon, Bordeaux to Bagnères de Bigorre, Bordeaux to Biarritz, " to Pau, Bordeaux, " hotels at, " steamers to, " trains to, Bordères, Bosost, " chapel of St. Antoine at, " church of, " Fonda (inn) d'España at, Box plants, Brada (mountain), Bread, " arrival of, Brêche d'Allanz, " Fausse, " de Roland, Broussette, valley of, Bué, Bugaret (mountain), " torrent of, Burbe, valley of, Burnished toes, Butte du Trésor, Buvette de Minvieille,

C.

Cabaliros, the, Cabanes du Lys, Cagots, Cambo, " hotels at, Campan, Canine absurdity, " feat, a, Canton, odours of, Capercailzie, Capvern, " baths of, " hotels at, Carmelites, church of the (Bigorre), Carnival time (Pau), Cascade d'Arroudet, " de Cérizey, " du Coeur, " de Discoo, " des Eaux Bonnes, " d'Enfer, " du Groshêtre, " de Laressec, " de Lassariou, " du Lutour, " du Marboré, " de Montauban, " de Pisse-Arros, " de Rioumaou, " du Serpent, " de Sidonie, " du Valentin, Casino (Luchon), " (Pau), " du Portillon (Luchon), " de Roulette (Luchon), Castel-Géloos, Castel-Mouly, Castel-Vieilh (or Castelvieil) Castets, Catarabe, Cat-fight, Cauterets, " baths of, " excursions from, " Fruitière of, " Gorge of, " hotels of, Cazaril, Cazaux, Céciré (Bosost), " (Superbagnères), Cemetery, Luz, " Pau, Cercle des Etrangers (Barèges), Cérizey, cascade of, Chambre d'Amour (inn), Chamois, Chandelles du Marboré, Chaos, the, Chapelle de Piétad, " de St. Antoine, " de St. Exupère, " de St. Roch, " de Solferino, Château de Beaucens, " de Despourrins, " de Géloz, " de Miramont, " de Ste. Marie, Chester, resemblance to, Cheval, Madame, Chinaougue, Church of Montauban, " Notre Dame, Arreau, " Notre Dame, Lourdes, " Piétat, " St. Jacques, Pau, " St. Martin, Pau, " St. Savin, Argelès, " St. Vincent, Bigorre, " Sazos, " Soulom, Chute de Lapaca, " la Pique, Cier de Luchon, Cierp, Cirque de Gavarnie, " Troumouse, Clérical sensation, Coarraze, Coffre d'Ossau, Col d'Arbéousse, " d'Aspin, " d'Aubiste, " de Bué " d'Estom Soubiran, " de Gourzy, " de Marie Blanque, " de Peyresourde, " de Portillon, " de Riou, " de Tortes, " de Tourmalet, Columbine (_aquilegia_), Confirmation at Cauterets, Coteaux, the (Pau), Cottin, Madame, Coumélie (mountain), Couradilles, the, Coustous, the, " music on the, Cowslips, Crabé (bridge), Crabioules, glacier of, Crêre d'Ordincède, "Crocodile of St. Bertrand," the, Croix de Manse, " de Mouguère, "Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers," the, Cucurlon rock (Biarritz), Cylindre (du Marboré),

D.

Dax, " baths of, " hotels at, Daffodils, Dangerous footing, Dear travelling, Dog-fancier, an excited, Dragon's-mouth Rock,

E.

Eaux Bonnes, 178; " bathing establishment of, " cascade of, " excursions from, Eaux Bonnes, hotels at, Eaux Chaudes, baths at, excursions from, grotto of, hotels at, Echez, basin of, Echo, wonderful, English Church (Bigorre), Entécade, peak, Espelette, Esplanade des Oeufs, Esquiez, Esterre, "Exhortation to the First Snow,"

F.

Fashion on a donkey, Fausse Brèche (Gavarnie), Feather moss, Females, importunate, Fête de Payole, Flight of lizards, Fontaine de Marnières (Pau) Fos, French sportsmen (Pau), Fuenterabia (_Fr_. Fontarabie),

G.

Gabas, Gabrielle d'Estrelle, Gan, Garin, Garonne, river, valley of, Gavarnie, Cirque of, hotels of, Port de, Gave d'Azun, Gave de Barèges, Gave de Bastan, Cauterets, Gavarnie, Héas, Lutour, Marcadau, d'Ossau, de Pau, Gazost-les-Bains, Gèdre, excursions from, grotto of, Géloos, Castel Gélos, General information, Appendix D, Gentians, Gerde, Géruzet's marble works, Ges, Glacier de Crabioules, Gorge de Bacheviron, Cauterets, du Hourat, Gouffre d'Enfer, Granges de Gouron, Grange de la Reine Hortense, Gripp, Grocer's opinion, the (Cauterets), Grotto of Eaux Chaudes, Gèdre, Lourdes, the Néez, Grust (St. Sauveur), Guétary, "Guide's Auction," the,

H.

Héas, inn, &c., valley of, Hendaye, Hepaticas, Hermitage of St. Peter (St. Sauveur), Herrère, stream, Hospice Civil (Bigorre) " de France (Luchon) " de Ste. Eugénie (Barèges) Hôtel d'Angleterre, Argelès " Baudot, Eaux Chaudes " Beau Séjour (Bigorre) " Canton, Luchon " de Comminges " d'España, Bosost " de France, Argelès " " Arreau " " Eaux Bonnes " " St. Sauveur " du Parc, Cauterets " de Paris, Biarritz " de la Poste, Payole " " Pierrefitte " des Pyrénées, Lourdes " " Louvie-Juzon " de l'Univers, Luz " des Voyageurs, Gavarnie Houn Blanquo Hourat, Gorge de Hungry guardian, a Hyacinths

I.

"Idyllic Colbert" (Pau) Importunate females Irun Itsatsou Izeste

J.

Jaca, a "Jackdaw's Causerie" Jardin à l'Anglaise (St. Sauveur) " Darralde " des Quinconces "Jay of Barèges," the "Jeannette's Lamb," Jonquils Jurançon

L.

Labassère, a waters of (see Bagneres de Bigorre) La Brune (Cauterets) La Casque du Marboré Lac Bleu " d'Estibaoute " d'Estom " d'Estom Soubiran " de Gaube " Vert "Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed," the Lagas, fountain of Lamothe Lapaca, Chute de Laressec, cascade of, Laruns church of inns at Lassariou, cascade of La Tour du Marboré Lès Lescar "Lesson of the Mountains," the Lime-works (Eaux Bonnes) _Linaria_ Liverpool to Bordeaux Lizards, flight of Llanberis Pass, resemblance to London to Bordeaux London to Paris Louderville Lourdes to Argelès " Bareges " Cauterets " Gavarnie " Luz Lourdes to Pierrefitte, St. Sauveur, Lourdes, castle of, chapel of, church of, grotto of, hotels at, panorama of, Loures, inns of, Louron, valley of, Louvie-la-Haute, Louvie-Juzon, Louvie-Soubiron, Luchon (see Bagnères de Luchon) Lunch on the Bergons, Lutour, cascade of, valley of, Luz, hotels at, baths of, Lys, valley of,

M.

Marble Works, Géruzet's, Marboré, the, Cascade du, Chandelles du, Epaule du, La Casque du, La Tour du, "March of the Men of Garlic," the, Marignac, Marion, Lake, Marnières, Fontaine de, Maucapéra, Mauléon-Barousse, Licharre, Médiabat, bridge of, Menu (Cauterets), (Payole), Mill conduits, Milord, a, Minvieille, Buvette de, Molitg, baths of, &c., excursions from, hotels at, Monné, Bigorre, Cauterets, Rouge, Montagne de Brada, Mont Arrouye, Montaigu, Pic de (see Pic) Montauban, church of, cascade of, Mont Bédat, Ferrat, Montgaillard, Montrejeau, buffet of, Mont Ségu, Bosost, Morcenx, Mouguère (cross of), Mountain rhododendrons, violets, Mouriscot, Lake, Museum (Luchon), (Luz),

N.

Napoleon's pillar (St. Sauveur), Narcissus, Nature's voice, Nay, Néez, grotto of the, stream, valley of, Négresse (station), Nestalas, Neste (river), Nethou, Pic de, New "diet of worms," a, Nivelle (river), Noah's ark landscape, a,

O.

"Old world and the new," the (Pau), Oloron, general information, hotels at, roads to, Oo, Open-air concert, Ordincède, Crète d', Orphanage of Notre Dame du Rocher (Luchon), Orphanage, church of, Orphéon, the, Orthez, Osmunda regalis (fern), Ossau, Gave d', Val d', Ourous, "Oxen's Appeal," the, Oxslips,

P.

Paillole (see Payole) Pagoda Villa, the (Cauterets), Palais de Justice, Pau, Palomières de Gerde, Panorama of Lourdes, Panticosa, hotels at, Parc Beaumont, Pau, du Château, Pau, Paris to Bagnères de Bigorre, Paris to Bordeaux, Paris to Toulouse, Pasages, Pas de l'Echelle, Pas de l'Escalette, Pas de Roland, Pau to Eaux Bonnes and Chaudes, Pau to Lourdes, Pau to Oloron, Pau, I, amusements at, castle of, drives, &c., at, general information, history of, hotels of, Payole, en fête, 136 Peasants and their ways, Peculiar teams, Peguère, the, Peña Blanca, Pêne de l'Heris, Pêne de Montarqué, Perpignan, Perpignan to Amélie, Perpignan to Molitg, Perpignan to Vernet, Perpignan, chief excursions from, hotels at, Peyrehorade, Peyresourde, Col de, Pic d'Antenac, Pic d'Arbizon, Pic d'Ardiden, Pic d'Arrens, Pic d'Aspé, Pic d'Astazou, Pic d'Aubiste, Pic d'Ayré, Pic de Bergons, Pic de Boum, Pic de Bugaret, Pic de Campbieil, Pic de Clarabide, Pic de Crabioules, Pic de Gabiétou, Pic de Gabizos, Pic de Gar, Pic de Gaube, Pic de Ger, Pic de Gourzy, Pic de Labassa, Pic du Lac Grand, Pic de Laruns de Lienz de Litouèse de Maladetta de Maucapéra du Midi d'Arrens (see Pic d'Arrens) du Midi de Bigorre du Midi d'Ossau du Milieu de la Mine de Montaigu (near Bigorre) de Montaigu (near Saint Sauveur) de Néouville de Néré de Néthou Rouge de Pailla de Pez de la Pique de Posets Poujastou Sacroux de Sarradets de Sauvegarde de Soulom de Villelongue de Viscos Picnicking (Pau) Pie de Mars Pierrefitte; hotels at, road to Piétat Pilgrims Piméné, the Pique, valley of Pitton de Tournefort Place Royale, Pau Ste. Eugénie, Biarritz "Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine," Plateau of the Bious-Artigues Poc (guide) _Polygala amara_ _Polygala rosea_ Pont d'Arrougé de Benquès de Crabé de Desdouroucat d'Enfer (near Eaux Chaudes) d'Enfer (near Luz) d'Espagne de la Hiladère de Lestelle de Nadie Napoléon de Pescadère de Ravi de Sia de Villelongue "Poor Pillicoddy," Port de Gavarnie de Peyresourde (see Col de) de la Picade de Venasque Posets, the Peak Post-office (Luz) _Potentilla_ Pragnères Preste-les-Bains; baths and hotels of, _Primula farinosa_ Promenade Horizontale (Barèges) de l'Impératrice Puyoo Pyramide de Peyrelance Pyrenean dogs prices of treatment of local terms translated, some, songs

Q.

Quairat, Pic Quatre Moulins de Sia

R.

Railway information and skeleton routes to the Pyrenees, _Ramondia pyrenaïca_ Ravin d'Araillé Rébénac Red tape "Riou," Rioumaou, cascade of "Roads up again," Rocks at Biarritz Rue d'Enfer (Luchon) " de la Fontaine (Pau)

S.

Saint Antoine, chapel of Aventin " Béat " Bernard, statue of " Bertrand de Comminges to Montrejeau " Bertrand de Comminges, " " " " cathedral of " " " " cloisters of " " " " history of St. Christau, " " hotels at " Etienne Jacques Church (Pau) " Jean de Luz " " dogs of " " general information " Laurent de la Salanque " Mamet " " church of " Martin's Church (Pau) " Pé " Pée " Peter's statue (Lourdes) " Pierre St. Sauveur " " baths of " " excursions from " " hotels at " Savin " Vincent's Church (Bigorre) Ste. Marie (near Bigorre) " (near Oloron) " (near St. Laurent) " (near Saléchan) " baths of Sakurazawa, memories of Salies Saléchan Salluz (Argelès) Salut, avenue of San Sebastian " chief features of, " hotels at Sarsaparilla Sassis (St. Sauveur) Sazos (St. Sauveur) _Scabii_ Sère (Luz) Serres Sévignac Sia " bridge of " Quatre Moulins de Sidonie, cascade of Silver beeches Siradan " valley of Skeleton routes and railway information Sketching advice " with a donkey-cart Snow Some Pyrenean local terms translated Songs, Pyrenean Soulom Soulom, Pic de Soum de Secugnac Sour grapes (Pau) Sourde, valley of Spanish mules and peasants Sport, French "Spring's Bitters and Sweets" Sugar-loaf Mountain (Gavarnie) Superbagnères view from Swine-feeding

T.

Tables of centigrade and Fahrenheit thermometers of centimetres and inches of grammes and ounces of kilometres and miles of litres and pints of metres and feet Taillon, the Tapêre (stream) Tarbes road Templars' church at Luz "The Abbé's Song" "The Argelès Shepherd's Reply" The Bishop's arrival The Chaos "The Crocodile of St. Bertrand" The Couradilles "The Guide's Auction" "The Jackdaw's Causerie" "The Jay of Barèges" "The Lady's Farewell to her Asinine Steed" "The Lesson of the Mountains" "The March of the Men of Garlic" "The Organ's Tale" "The Oxen's Appeal" "The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine" "The Three Cormorants" The "witch of the hills" "Three Cormorants," the Torrent of Bugaret Toulouse to Perpignan road to Tour des Lacs (Biarritz) Tour de la Monnaie (Pau) Tourmalet, Col de Trained vines Tramesaïgues Travellers' troubles Troumouse, Cirque of Trous d'Enfer Tuc de Maupas

U.

Urrugne Ustaritz

V.

Valcabrère Val d'Ossau Valentin (river) Vallée d'Aran d'Arboust d'Argelès d'Aspe d'Aure de Barèges de Barousse de Broussette de Campan de Garonne de Héas de l'Hospice de Lesponne de Lienz de Louron de Luchon history of Vallée du Lutour de Luz du Lys de Marcadau du Néez de la Pique de Séoube de Serris de Siradan de Sourde (or Soude) Valley of the Ten Thousand Rocks (Amoy) Venasque Port de Vernet-les-Bains baths of excursions from hotels at Via Crucis (Bétharram) Viella (near Barèges) (near St. Béat) Vieuzac Vignemale, Pic de Villelongue Pic de Villenave Vines trained by the roadside Violets

W.

Washerwomen and their gamps Wonderful echo Wood anemones

Y.

Yankee tale, a

Z.

Zinc mines