Chapter 31

Pic de Néré.--6 hrs. there and back. Beware of vipers.

Pic du Midi de Bigorre.--8 hrs. up and down. Guide and horses, 5 frs. each. The favourite excursion in the vicinity, and one of the finest in the Pyrenees. The panorama which is annexed is on a fine day truly magnificent. Horses can be taken to the summit, where there is an excellent inn.

Lacs d'Escoubous.--2 hrs. to the Lac d'Escoubous; 2 hrs. 30 min. to the Lac Blanc; 2 hrs. return. Guide 4 to 6 frs., horses ditto.

Pic d'Ayré.--6 to 7 hrs. up and down. Horses can be taken within 1/2 hr. of summit. Guide 6 frs., horses ditto.

Pic de Lienz.--5 hrs. up and down. A pleasant climb. See Chapter VI.

Le Néouville.--12 hrs. by the Col d'Aure, there and back. Guide necessary--10 frs. Splendid view over all the higher Pyrenees.

BAUDÉAN.--A village in the Campan valley on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Luchon, in the Hautes-Pyrénées.

BAYONNE.--City and first-class fortress in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the Adour and the Nive, standing some 2 miles from the shores of the terrible Biscay Bay. On the direct line from Bordeaux to Biarritz and Spain.

Hotels.--St. Etienne, Du Commerce, Ambassadeurs, St. Martin, De la Bilbaïna, De la Guipuzcoäna, and Du Panier fleuri. Rail to Négresse station for Biarritz; also narrow-gauge railway to Biarritz _viâ_ Anglet.

Splendid twin-towered cathedral, ancient fortifications, &c. Excellent market and good shops, which are more reasonable than at Biarritz.

Post and Telegraph Office, English Vice-Consulate, &c.

Cabs.--The course 1 fr., the hour 2 frs. 25 cents and 50 cents extra respectively for 2 horses.

Chocolate.--Fagalde.

Excursions to Cambo (10 miles), Croix de Mouguère, £c., see Chapter XIII.

BÉHOBIE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the direct road to Spain, 14-1/4 miles from Biarritz.

BÉTHARRAM.--A pleasantly-situated village in the Basses-Pyrénées, once a favourite pilgrimage. There is a lovely bridge in the vicinity, and the Via Crucis just midway between the village and the bridge. It is situated on the direct road from Pau to Lourdes, and is 15 miles distant from the former, and 9-1/4 from the latter. The station on the railway, "Montaut-Bétharram," is about 2 miles from the village.

Inns.--De la Poste, De France. Celebrated grotto in the vicinity.

BIARRITZ, a favourite English winter resort on the shores of the Biscay, in the Basses-Pyrénées--2 miles from the Négresse station on the direct line to Spain, and 130 miles from Bordeaux. Living during the winter is considerably cheaper than at Pau, but the winds are much stronger and the air more bracing. Biarritz makes a valuable change from both Pau and Arcachon. It is free from epidemics, and beneficial in cases of paralysis, as well as chest and heart complaints.

Hotels.--De Paris et de Londres, || Il Grand Hotel, D'Angleterre (the favourite hotel with English people), Des Ambassadeurs, De France, Il Des Princes, De l'Europe, De la Poste, &c.

Apartments.--All over the town, varying in price according to position. Maison Brocq, || Maison Larrodé, || Maison Broquedis.

English Pension.--Villa du Midi, || Rue des Champs.

Doctors.--Dr. Welby, || Rue Gambetta. Dr. Malpas; Dr. Girdlestone.

Carriages.--Maümus, || Place St. Eugenie. Larrondat, Place de la Marie.

Libraries.--One in connection with the English Church. Lending library at Victor Benquet's, Place de la Marie (stationer, £c.).

Confectioners.--Figue, || Rue Mazagran; Miremont.|| Place de la Marie.

Photographer.--P. Frois, Rue du Port Vieux.

Banker.--E. H. Bellairs, Esq. (Vice Consul), International Bank.

"Depot Anglais," for wines, groceries, and English provisions, &c.

English Club, Post and Telegraph Office.

For principal excursions refer to Chapter XIII.

BIDART.--The first Basque village, 3 miles from Biarritz on the direct route to Spain--railway station, Bidart-Guétary.

BIELLE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the road to Eaux Bonnes, in the Val d'Ossau, 18-1/4 miles from Pau. Inn, des Voyageurs.

BILHÈRES.--A village on the slopes of the Val d'Ossau, above Bielle, in the Basses-Pyrénées--celebrated for the copper mines in the vicinity. It lies in the direct track from the Val d'Ossau to the Vallée d'Aspe.

BlLLÈRES.--A small village near Pau, in the Basses-Pyrénées on the road to the ancient town of Lescar: the locally well-known "Bois de Billères" take their name from it.

BIZANOS.--A village below Pau, on the Gave, in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the direct road to Lourdes.

BOO-SILHEN.--A village and railway station on the line from Lourdes to Pierrefitte, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. There is the site of an ancient camp in the vicinity.

BOSOST.--A village in Spain (18 miles from Luchon by the Portillon), under the shadow of the Eastern Pyrénées, in the valley of Aran. This is a most pleasing excursion from Luchon, either on horseback viâ the Portillon, or in a carriage viâ St. Béat. See Chapter X. Inn, Fonda d'España.

CAMBO.--A small picturesquely-situated bathing resort on the banks of the Nive, 10 miles from Bayonne, in the Basses-Pyrénées. A favourite excursion from Biarritz, with the extra attraction of good fishing.

Bathing Establishment, with a hot sulphur and cold ferruginous spring. The former has proved useful for its diuretic and laxative qualities, and efficacious in cases of languor following long illnesses: the latter is very rich in iron, and a useful tonic.

The Climate is exceedingly healthy in spring and autumn, but too warm in summer.

Hotel.--St. Martin.

Chocolate Manufactory.--Monsieur Fagalde's.

Doctor.--M. Albert Dotézac.

Carriages, Horses, and Asses, at various rates.

CAMPAN (2192 ft.)--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées (3-3/4 miles from Bigorre) situated in the valley of the same name--on the direct road from Bigorre to Luchon; possesses an ancient church and market-place.

CAPVERN.--A bathing resort in the Hautes-Pyrénées, built on a hill two miles distant from the bathing establishments, which are erected in a narrow ravine. One of the stations on the main line between Toulouse and Pau, being 78 miles distant from the former and 56 from the latter. The climate is mild, and the season lasts from the 15th of May to the 1st of November.

Two Bathing Establishments--De Hount-Caoudo and de Bouridé. The water principally contains sulphate of lime with a small proportion of carbonate of iron: its action is diuretic and laxative. It is an excellent and bracing tonic, stimulating to the digestion, and has also been beneficially employed in cases of catarrh and certain liver complaints. The Hount-Caoudo spring has an exciting tendency; that of Bouridé a sedative one.

Hotels.--Grand, Beau Séjour, De Fontaine, De la Paix, Des Bains, etc.

Post and Telegraph Office in the season. CASTETS.--A small picturesquely-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrénées--off the high road between Pau and Eaux Bonnes--under a mile from Louvie Juzon. Lodging can be obtained at M. Fouga's.

CAUTERETS (3254 ft.)--A town situated in the gorge of the same name in the Hautes-Pyrénées, seven miles distant from Pierrefitte, the terminus of the line from Lourdes. It is said to be the most rich in mineral waters of any resort in the Pyrenees. From its position in a hollow, surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, it is frequently visited with a good deal of rain, and the climate is subject to severe changes in temperature, especially in spring, when the mornings and nights are cold. The season proper begins about the middle of June and lasts to the 15th of September. Living out of the season averages about 10 frs. per diem, but is much greater when once July has arrived, and consequently it is always best to write and make terms beforehand.

There are Nine Establishments for the Waters, among which twenty-four springs are divided. The springs may be classed under two heads--firstly, sodium sulphate; 2ndly, saline--both naturally heated.

The three most important establishments are--Les Oeufs, La Raíllère, and Les Thermes de Vieux César. The others are--Le Rocher-Rieumiset, Manhourat et Les Yeux, Pauze Vieux, Pauze Nouveaux, Petit St. Sauveur, and Le Pré; in addition to which there are two "buvettes," known as Buvette de César and Le Bois. The waters at the César Vieux are the most exciting of all, and prove beneficial in scrofulous and cutaneous affections, rheumatism, and tumours. Les Oeufs are specially efficacious in lung complaints; La Raíllère is used successfully in affections of the respiratory passages; Mauhourat is specially recommended to aid the digestion of La Raíllère's water; while Les Yeux are beneficial for affections of the eyes--as the name suggests. Le Petit St. Sauveur is efficacious in cases of hysteria and similar complaints.

Hotels.--Du Parc, || Continental, De France, Richelieu, Des Promenades, Des Boulevards, De la Paix, De Londres, Des Bains, D'Angleterre, etc.

Apartments to be found in all parts. The price of a single-bedded room varies from 3 to 10 frs. in the season. Much less at other times.

Doctors, in connection with the "Thermes," and many independent ones.

Chemists.--J. Latapie and M. Broca--both in the Place St. Martin.

Confectioners.--Patisserie Suisse, Rue César; Patisserie Pyrénéenne, Rue de la Raillère.

Horses and Carriages in plenty--good steeds at Dominique's, Rue de la Raillère.

Guides.--Sarrettes, Clément Latour, Latapie, Barraga, Bordenare; and also Berret, Lac Dominique, and Pont Dominique.

Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, &c. Tariff for bathing, &c., similar to other resorts.

Horses for Excursions cost about 12 frs. for the day, for an ordinary trip 6 frs.; and for a few hours' ride 4 to 5 frs., with 50 cents to the ostler.

Carriage from Argelès, 20 frs. with luggage; pourboire 3 frs.

The Chief Excursions are:--

To the Col de Riou.--Splendid view. Guide 6 frs., horses 6 frs. Can be prolonged down the opposite side to St. Sauveur.

To the Cascade de Cérizey, Pont d'Espagne, and Lac de Gaube.--Guides each 8 frs., horses 6 frs. The favourite trip.

Le Cabaliros.--6 hrs. up and down. Guide 10 frs., horses 10 frs.

Le Monné.--7 hrs. up and down. Horses and guide 10 frs. each, donkey 8 frs. Splendid view.

Pic d'Enfer.--8-1/2 hrs. and 12 hrs. respectively by the two routes. Good guides necessary--a difficult climb.

For the Vallée de Lutour refer to Chapter V. Pic d'Ardiden.--9 hrs. Guide essential--an interesting climb.

Pic de Vignemale,--18 to 20 hrs. not including rests. Guides, hatchets, and ropes necessary. Magnificent view from summit, but a very difficult trip.

CIER-de-Luchon.--A small village in the Haute Garonne, 4-1/2 miles from Luchon on the railway from thence to Montrejeau. CIERP.--A small village at the foot of a rock in the Pique valley--dep. Haute-Garonne--near Marignac, station for St. Béat on the line between Luchon and Montrejeau. COARBAZE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées on the road between Pau and Lourdes. Railway station on line connecting the above places; 10-1/2 miles from Pau. The ruins of a castle in the neighbourhood, in which Henry IV. spent his childhood. Refer to Chapter I. DAX.--A town on the Adour, and junction for Bordeaux from the Bayonne and Pau lines. Celebrated for its baths, which are of three kinds, steam, mud, and water. There are several bathing establishments, but the Grand Etablissement is the best, where board and lodging can be also obtained, at an all-round figure, including baths, of from 10 to 15 frs. per diem. These baths are very useful for affections of the larynx, articular enlargements, and most kinds of rheumatism and neuralgia. When drunk the water has a tonic and diuretic effect.

Hotels.--De la Paix, Du Nord, De France, Figaro, De l'Europe.

There are enjoyable walks about the town and some old ruins; and in the vicinity a bed of fossil salt.

EAUX BONNES is a miniature Spa hemmed in by the sides of a wooded gorge in the Basses-Pyrénées--27-1/2 miles from Pau and 6-1/4 from Eaux Chaudes; railway communication as far as Laruns ought now to be established: refer to Chapter XII. The waters, hot and cold, consist of five springs, sulphuret of sodium being largely present in all, and sulphate of lime in a less degree. There are two establishments --the Grand and the Ortech; but the former is far the most commodious, though the water is used for drinking purposes almost more than for bathing. The temperature varies in the different springs from 54° to 88° Fahr. The waters are specially recommended in cases of pulmonary consumption and affections of the air passages--also for chronic maladies of the abdominal viscera, intermittent fevers, hypochondria, and hysteria.

The Tariff is similar to that at the other Spas. Season, July and August.

The Climate is mild, but warm in summer.

Hotels.--De France, || Princes, Empereurs, Richelieu, Poste, Europe, Sallenave, Des Touristes, D'Espagne et d'Orient, De l'Univers, etc.

Apartments all over the town. The following are a few of the houses that let rooms:--Bonnecaze, Pommé, Berdou, Tourné. Living in hotels during the season costs from 10 to 20 frs., according to _étage,_ per diem.

Chemists.--Cazaux fils, and Tourné.

Confectioners.--Patisserie Suisse.

Post and Telegraph Office.--The Route Thermale runs from Eaux Bonnes to Argelès, 26-1/2 miles: see Chapter XII.

Doctors in connection with the baths, and independent ones.

Horses and Carriages at the hotels, etc.

Guides.--Orteig, Lanusse, and Jean Pierre for lofty summits; also Maucor and Caillau, who, with Lanusse, are Horse proprietors as well. It is necessary to bargain about prices, as there is no fixed tariff, but 10 to 13 frs. per diem for ordinary trips ought to suffice, without providing food--with food, 3 or 4 frs. less.

The Chief Excursions are:--

For the Col de Gourzy and the Cascades du Valentin refer to Chapter XII.

Pic de Ger.--10 to 12 hours there and back. Guide 20 frs. and provisions necessary. Magnificent view.

Le Gabizos.--Whole day; provisions, liquor, and guide necessary. A tiring climb, but one of the finest views in the Pyrenees.

Pic de Goupey.--7 hours up and down; guide necessary.

Pic de St. Mont.--9 hours up and down, easy climb, guide not necessary.

Lacs d'Anglas et d'Uzious.--Guide and provisions necessary; a whole day; splendid excursion.

EAUX CHAUDES.--Another miniature Spa--less contracted in its position, but equally picturesquely situated in a wild gorge in the Basses-Pyrénées, 27-1/2 miles from Pau. The climate is bracing, but on account of the situation of the town it is not so good a residence for invalids with chest complaints as Eaux Bonnes--as the wind sweeps up the valley unchecked. It is, however, a glorious place for healthy people to stay in, and a good centre for excursions.

The Bathing Establishment is a fine building with good accommodation. There are seven important springs and two of less consequence; and they partake of the same nature as those of Eaux Bonnes, though the temperature extends about 10° Fahr. higher. They are largely charged with sulphur and lime, in combination with carbon and soda, and have an exciting action. They are especially useful in cases of catarrh, rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, and neuralgia. The "buvettes" of Baudot and Minvielle are largely patronised.

Hotels.--Baudot, || De France; and more expensive accommodation at "L'Etablissement Thermal."

Prices are less than at Eaux Bonnes. In the season they range from 10 to 16 frs., but from 8 to 12 at other times, "En Pension."--For one day or less than a week no fixed price can be quoted.

Doctors.--One in connection with the establishment.

Horses and Carriages to be obtained at the hotels or from the guides, who are mostly horse proprietors.

Guides.--Camy, Labarthe, Larrouy, Eugène Olivan, Jean Sallenave. Tariff not fixed, but 7 to 9 frs. per diem without providing food is sufficient, and 5 to 8 frs. for horses--though this is only for ordinary excursions and not perilous ones.

Bathing Tariff.--Similar to that of other Spas.

Chief Excursions are:--

Goust.--1 hour there and back; mule track.

Grotte des Eaux Chaudes.--2 hours there and back--for lights and permit 1 fr. 50 c. each is charged, guide 2 frs.

Gabas and the Bious-Artigues.--See Chapter XII. Rather over 8 miles; carriage road to Gabas, fine and pleasant trip.

Baths of Panticosa.--13 to 15 hours by the mule track; a favourite way into Spain.

To Huesca by Sallent and Jaca, a very lengthy trip, requiring several days.

Pic Scarput.--10 hours up and down; a very fine climb.

Lac d'Artouste.--10 hours up and down; a viper region.

Pic d'Arriel.--10 hours up and down; an exceedingly fine view from summit, but not an easy climb.

Le Balaïtous--14 hours. For ascension only, it is necessary to have good guides (at least two), as well as provisions, and to pass the night on the mountain in the Cabanes near the Lac d'Artouste. A difficult excursion, not unattended with considerable danger.

FONTARABIE (Fuenterabia, Sp.). A quaint old Spanish town on the left bank of the Bidassoa, just across the frontier, well worthy of a visit. About equidistant from the stations of Hendaye (Fr.) and Irun (Sp.) on the direct line from Bordeaux to Madrid. A pleasant excursion from Biarritz.

GABAS.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 miles from Eaux Chaudes, near the famous plateau of the Bious-Artigues. Inn accommodation can be had, and it is a good starting-point for several excursions.

GAN.--A village in the Val d'Ossau in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 miles from Pau. The road from Pau forks here, one branch leading to Oloron (15-1/2 miles), the other to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes (22-1/2 miles). There are some mosaics under a shed in the vicinity. Hôtel (such as it is), Des Voyageurs.

GAVARNIE (4380 ft.). An unpretentious village with good hotel accommodation, situated among some of the most magnificent scenery in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 13 miles from Luz. For full description of the Cirque of Gavarnie refer to Chapter VIII., also for the Falls of Marboré, 1380 ft.

Hotels.--Des Voyageurs;|| De la Cascade.

There are several Mountains to be ascended in the neighbourhood requiring experienced guides; among which are Le Piméné, the Brèche de Roland, Le Taillon, Le Gabiétou, Le Marboré, Pic d'Astazou, and the Mont Perdu; but for further information the traveller is referred to the previously recommended authorities.

No Guides have a better reputation than those of Gavarnie, and of these Henri Passet and Celestin Passet have made all the great ascents of the French and Spanish Pyrenees; Pierre Pujo, Pierre Brioul, Poc, and Haurine are also men of experience in mountaineering.

Horses to the Cirque, 2 frs. each. Guides, 2 frs. each. Asses, 1 1/2 fr. each.

GAZOST-les-Bains.--A village in the Vallée du Nez, 7 1/3 miles from Lugagnan (the nearest station), on the line between Pierrefitte and Lourdes, in the Basses-Pyrénées. The baths, fed by four cold sulphurous springs, are less than 3/4 of a mile from the village, where there is a large sawmill. Very few people visit the baths, and they are in a miserable state. There are copper, zinc, and argentiferous lead mines in the neighbourhood.

Rooms at the Châlet de la Scieric.

GÈDRE (3214 ft.).--A poor village in lovely scenery (see engraving, page 122), on the side of a rocky gorge in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 8 miles from Luz and 4 from Gavarnie, on the direct road between the two.

Hotels.--Des Voyageurs, Palasset.

For information on the so-called Grotte de Gèdre see Chapter VIII. The two chief excursions from Gèdre are those to the Vallée de Héas and the Cirque de Troumouse, though they may be considered as one trip here. From Gèdre to the chapel of Héas 2 to 2 1/2 hours, from the chapel to the fork of the road 1/2 hour, and from thence to the Cirque 1 hour. This is a very fine excursion, occasionally undertaken from Luz and St. Sauveur.

GERDE.--A village in the Campan valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Bigorre. Known chiefly for the _palomières_ or pigeon traps among the trees above it. See Chapter II.

GRIPP (3448 ft.).--A well-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Barèges, 2 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie. Tourists often find the Hôtel des Voyageurs comfortable enough to keep them there for a few days. A little beyond the village on the old road are the Baths of Bagnet, supplied by a cold sulphurous spring; they do not, however, call for much mention. The Falls of Garet are in the immediate vicinity.

GRUST.--A small village in the Hautes-Pyrénées. Refer to Sazos in Appendix.

GUÉTARY.--A Basque village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 3 miles from Biarritz. The railway station, Bidart-Guétary, on the line between Bordeaux and Madrid, is not far from the village.

HÉAS.--A hamlet in the Hautes-Pyrénées, five miles from Gèdre and eight from Gavarnie, by the Piméné.

Inn.--De la Munia, kept by Victor Chappelle, hunter; besides whom, Jacques Canton and François Lavignolle, chamois-hunters, are excellent guides. Chief excursion to the Cirque de Troumouse. See Gèdre.

HENDAYE.--The French frontier town on the Bay of Biscay in the Basses-Pyrénées, known for the manufacture of a liqueur of the same name. French Custom-house; station on the line between Bordeaux and Madrid. Good beach and bathing. Boats can be hired to cross the Bidassoa to Fuenterabia, at about 2 frs. for 3 persons; for information concerning which see Chapter XIII.

Buffet at the station.

Money changed.

Hotels/.--De France, Du Commerce, Americani.

IRUN.--The Spanish frontier town and railway station on the direct line between Bordeaux and Spain. Spanish Customhouse.

Buffet at the station, also a money changer.

Hotels.--Echenique, De Arupe.

IZESTE.--A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, near Louvie-Juzon and Arudy, on the road between Eaux Bonnes and Oloron.

JACA.--A fortified town of Spain on the banks of the Aragon, 521/2 miles from Oloron, on the direct route to Huesca, from which it is 571/2 miles distant.

LABASSÈRE.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, celebrated for its waters and slate quarries (refer to Bagnères de Bigorre). It is 11/2 hrs. distant from Bigorre; but its quarries take 1/2 hr. longer to reach, and the springs 1 hour after that. The celebrated water is bottled at the springs, but it is also sent in casks for use in Bagnères de Bigorre.

LAMOTHE.--A small village in the Landes, 25 miles from Bordeaux. Junction for Arcachon, 10 miles distant.

LARUNS.--An important though tumble-down village in the Val d'Ossau, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 31/4 miles from Eaux Bonnes and the same from Eaux Chaudes. The railway from Pau now extends to Laruns, 24 miles (see Chapter XII.), but the drive is more enjoyable, except on a dusty day. The picturesque costumes of the Ossau valley may still be seen occasionally at this village.

Hotels.--Des Touristes, Des Pyrénées. Living economical.

LESCAR.--An ancient and decaying town, 41/2 miles from Pau by rail. Several interesting ruins, &c., for which refer to Chapter I.

LOURDES.--A town in the Hautes-Pyrénées, and railway station on the direct line from Pau to Toulouse, and junction with the line to Pierrefitte. The great Roman Catholic Pilgrimage, having now quite eclipsed Bétharram, much visited formerly as a shrine. The grotto where the Virgin is supposed to have appeared is by the riverside. An admirable panorama represents the scene at one of these imaginary apparitions of the Virgin--known as Notre Dame de Lourdes, and always represented in that connection with a blue sash. Five and twenty years and superstition have transformed Lourdes from a little village into a fair-sized town, overloaded with hotels, of which the traveller is advised to be wary, especially during the pilgrim season, when the beds are apt to have other occupants than the "weary traveller's form." The Hôtel des Pyrénées may be trusted.

Hotels.--Des Pyrénées || (Mons. R. Lacrampe); Latapie; De la Grotte, De la Poste, De Paris, De l'Europe, De la Paix, D'Angleterre, &c.

Excellent Carriages on hire in the town and at the hotels.

Excursions to the Lac de Lourdes, &c.

LOURES (1445 ft.).--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 17 1/2 miles from Luchon and 3 from St. Bertrand de Comminges (see Chapter XI.), for which it is the station on the railway between Luchon and Montrejeau, and carriages await trains.

Hotels.--Pyrénées, Lassus.

LOUVIE-JUZON.--A village in the Val d'Ossau, Basses-Pyrénées, 16 miles from Pau, n. from Eaux Bonnes, and less than a mile from the ruins of the ancient castle of Géloz. There is a curious old church in the village, and the inn where the diligence daily halts is known as the Hôtel des Pyrénées.

LOUVIE SOUBIBON.--A small village at the foot of a mountain worked for its slates, 4 miles from the above.

LUZ (2410 ft.).--A well-situated village in a fertile valley in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 6 1/4 miles from Pierrefitte, the terminus of the line to Lourdes, 1 1/4 from St. Sauveur, and 3 3/4 from Barèges. From the last-named it receives water for its new Bathing Establishment (see Bareges in Appendix).

Hotels.--De l'Univers, || Des Pyrénées, De l'Europe, &c.

Apartments may also be obtained. Living is not on the whole expensive, but from July to September from 10 to 16 frs. may be charged--much less at other times (say from 7 to 10).

Carriages and Horses, Asses and Guides can be obtained for the various excursions (for which see St. Sauveur in Appendix).

Post and Telegraph Office.

For description of the old Church of the Templars and the Château St. Marie, &c., refer to Chapter VI. MAULÉON-BAROUSSE.--In the valley of Barousse, Hautes-Pyrénées, 3 1/4 miles from Saléchan, on the line between Montrejeau and Luchon; 4 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie (not to be confounded with the Ste. Marie near Bigorre).

Inn.--M. Grillon's.

MOLITG-les-Bains (1480 ft.).--Built on a terrace above the Castellane Gorge in the Pyrénées Orientales, 5-1/2 miles from Prades and 31 from Perpignan.

The Bathing Establishments (of which there are three) are situated a mile below the village, in the gorge, and they are supplied by 10 springs of a similar nature, largely charged with sulphate of soda, and of temperatures varying from 88° to 100° Fahr. The water has emollient and sedative properties, slightly diuretic, and is especially useful in diseases of the skin and nerves.

The Climate is very mild in winter, but hot in summer; and the season extends from May to October.

Hotels.--The best accommodation is to be had at the bathing establishments Barrère, Llupia, and Massia, all of which belong to M. Massia, who is a doctor by profession.

Chief Excursions are:--

To Olette by the Gourgs de Nohèdes (11 hours there and back).

To the Baths of Carcanières (about 11 hours there _only_) _via_ Mosset.

MONTAUBAN.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 1-1/2 miles from Luchon (see Chapter X.), known for its church and cascade.

MONTGAILLARD.--A village on the banks of the Adour, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 5 miles from Bigorre: station on the line between Bigorre and Tarbes.

MONTREJEAU.--A town standing on an eminence above the river in the Haute-Garonne, junction for Luchon from the Pau-Toulouse line.

Hotels.--Leclair (fine situation); Pouget, well-known; &c.

Buffet at the station. Refer to Chapter XI. for further information.

MORCENZ.--A town in the "Landes" district, 68 miles from Bordeaux, and junction for the Tarbes-Bigorre line. There is a small bathing establishment in the town, supplied by a cold chalybeate spring; and a quarry of lithographic stone in the neighbourhood.

Buffet at station.

Inns.--Commerce, Ambassadeurs.

NAY.--An ancient village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the left bank of the Gave de Pau. Station, Coarraze-Nay, on the line from Pau to Lourdes; 10-1/2 miles from the former and 14 from the latter. Tanneries, &c., and ancient buildings. See Chapter I.

Inns.--Du Commerce, De France.

NÉGRESSE.--The station for Biarritz (2 miles from the town), on the direct line between Bordeaux and Madrid.

NESTALAS.--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte; the station being known as Pierrefitte-Nestalas, the terminus of the line from Lourdes. Hotel accommodation at Pierrefitte (which see in Appendix).

OLORON.--A town on a hill above the river of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 20 miles from Pau, by Gan and Belair. Its suburb (across the river) Sainte Marie possesses a fine old church of the Transition style. The railway was to be opened this year (1883) in communication with Pau and Laruns. Oloron is celebrated for some exquisite pottery, that can be bought in all the chief Pyrenean resorts _except_ the town itself.

Hotels.--De la Poste, Des Voyageurs, De l'Aigle.

Oo.--A small village with an ancient church, in the Haute-Garonne, 5-1/2 miles from Luchon, and 4-1/2 from the lake of the same name.

Guide.--Jean Brunet.

ORTHEZ.--An ancient town situated on a hill above the Gave de Pau, in the Basses-Pyrénées. The Tour de Moncade, in the vicinity, has great historic interest, besides which there is an ancient bridge and other remains of olden days (see Chapter I.). Coach to Salies (10 miles), and Mauléon-Licharre (27 miles).

Inns.--De la Belle-hôtesse, Des Pyrénées, &c.

PAILLOLE (or Payole).--A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 11-1/4 miles from Bigorre, on the Route Thermale, _via_ the Col de Peyresourde to Luchon. See Chapters I. and IX.

Inn.--De la Poste.

PANTICOSA.--A village in Spain, 24 miles from Cauterets, celebrated for its waters. The bathing establishments are fed by four springs of the sulphurous type. They are variously used for dyspepsia, rheumatism, skin diseases, scrofula, and chronic (non-tubercular) chest affections. They have a purgative and sedative action.

Hotels.--Accommodation can be best obtained in the nine different bathing establishments belonging to the same proprietor; there are also the D'Espagne and FrancoEspagnol.

Horses.--At about 5 to 7 francs per diem, at the Maison Borda.

Doctors.--Attached to the establishments.

PASAGES.--A village on the shores of a tidal bay in Spain, 30 miles from Bayonne and 6-1/4 from Irun. It was once the safest port in the Biscay. Refer to Chapter XIII.

PAU (770 ft.).--A former capital, and most important town on the right bank of the Gave of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées. A favourite winter resort with English and Americans, possessing hotels, markets, and shops of the best and most varied descriptions. An excellent starting-point for a tour in the Pyrenees. For history, &c., see Chapter I.

Hotels.--France, || Poste, || Gassion, De la Paix, Splendide Bellevue, Beau Séjour, || Grand Continental, De Londres, Henri IV., &c.

Pensions.--Colbert, || Hattersly, Etcherbest, Lecour, &c.

Apartments.--All over the town.

Season.--1st of October to end of May.

Villas. Can be hired furnished, for the season, at prices varying from £8 per month to £80.

Baths.--Rue Alexander Taylor, and 13 Rue d'Orleanb, &c.

Carriage Proprietors.--Ranguedat, || Crohare, || &c. £c.

Horse Proprietors.--Estrade, || Peiho, || Lanusse.

T-Carts and Good Ponies.--Schürch, Rue de la Fontaine.

English Churches.--Trinity Church, Rue des Temples; Christ Church, Rue Serviez; St Andrew's Church, Rue Calas; Presbyterian Church, Rue Montpensier.

Bankers.--Merillon, || will take English cheques, &c.; Mr. Church, English Vice-Consul; Mr. M. Clay, U. S. ViceConsul; Tricou, &c.

Post and Telegraph Office, Reading--Rooms, Theatre, Casino, &c.

English Club.--Place Royale.

For the principal Excursions and sports and pastimes, refer to