'Twixt France and Spain; Or, A Spring in the Pyrenees
Chapter 30
The Val d'Esquierry (4839 ft.), 11 miles.--Carriage-road as far as Grange d'Astos (25 to 30 frs.) very rich in flora.
To the Hospice de Prance and the Cascades--des Demoiselles, et du Parisien, 9 1/4 miles. Carriage-road all the way. Landau, 25 frs.; but 4 frs. per seat in the Hospice diligence there and back.
To the Port de Venasque and the Pic de Sauvegarde, returning by the Port de la Picade; 10 miles to the Port de Venasque--1 hour further to the summit of the Pic de Sauvegarde; 11 miles from the Port de la Picade to Luchon. Time, 10 to 11 hours there and back; but this fine excursion is rendered more enjoyable by sleeping at the Hospice (_vide_ above), and starting early next day for the summits.
The Valley Of Oueil and the village of Bourg (9 1/3 miles). Carriage there and back, 30 frs. From Bourg the Pic de Montné can be ascended. Splendid sunrise view from summit. Guide recommended if ascension is made by night; horses 7 frs., guides 10 frs.; or by day 7 frs.
Lac d'Oo (10 miles).--Carriage-road for 8 miles. Landau, 25 frs. This lake, also called Seculejo, is full of salmon-trout, and there is a very fine cascade (820 ft.) on the far side, to which visitors can be ferried. Fare for one person 1 1/4 frs.--for more, an arrangement can be made. There is a small toll levied on every person who visits this lake--no matter whether they patronise the little inn or not!
Saint Béat.--By carriage 25 frs., or by rail to Marignac and diligence afterwards (12 1/2 miles). Refer to Chapter XI.
L'Antenac.--6 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Horse and guide each 6 frs. An enjoyable excursion; and the whole distance can be ridden.
Pic Spijoles.--4 1/2 hours from the Lac d'Oo--a difficult ascension.
Pic de Crabioules.--13 hours up and down. Guide necessary. Splendid view.
Pic Quairat.--5 hours from the Lac d'Oo. Guide necessary.
Le Céciré.--8 hours up and down. Guide and horses 6 frs. each.
Pic Sacroux,--8 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Very fine view.
The Peaks Bacanère and the Pales de Burat (11 3/4 miles).--9 hours there and back. Horses and guides from 5 to 8 frs. each, according to season. One of the most charming of all the excursions from Luchon.
L'Entécade.--7 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. each. A much-regimented climb. Splendid view from summit.
Pic de Poujastou.--8-1/2 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. each; an easy climb.
The Mont Maudits or Maladetta Group, the highest in the range, including the Pic de Nethou (11,169 ft.), Pic 'du Milieu (11,044 ft.), Pic de la Maladetta (10,867 ft.), Pic d'Albe (10,761 ft.), and the Pic Fourcanade (9456 ft.), are so difficult and perilous, and require such excellent guides, that the reader is referred for information to Mr. Packe's and Count Russell's books, previously mentioned.
_Note_.--Carriages from Bigorre to Luchon, 43-1/2 miles, _via_ Arreau, 80 to 100 frs., 5 to 10 frs. pourboire, out of the season; 100 to 130 frs., and pourboire 10 frs., in the season.
BAREGES (4084 ft.), situated in a barren rocky gorge above Luz, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. It may be called the "Old Soldier's Resort," as the waters are specially efficacious for gunshot wounds.
The fine Bathing Establishment contains 30 separate bath-rooms, besides 3 douche-rooms, a spray-room, foot bath-room, &c. The springs vary in heat from 71° to 112° Fahr., and are of a similar nature, all containing large proportions of sulphur and baregine. Dr. Lee says, "The water when drunk has a diuretic, diaphoretic, and expectorant action; the bath, by its general and local stimulating properties, cleanses foul ulcers,... promotes the exfoliation of carious portions of bone and subsequent cicatrisation, and frequently causes foreign bodies which have been long imbedded ... to make their way to the surface." It is also highly beneficial for old bullet-wounds, neuralgic affections, rheumatic pains, and stiff joints.
Hotels.--Del'Europe, De France, Des Pyrénées, Richelieu. Board and lodging from 10 to 15 frs. per day in the season (15th of June to September). No hotels open in winter, as the village is covered with snow.
The Climate even in summer is variable--great heat is frequently followed by great cold, necessitating the wearing of woollen under-clothing, which should always be taken.
Bathing Tariff, &c.--Baths and douches from I fr. to 2 frs. 50 cents. For each visit to the drinking-room 5 cents; subscription for one month, 10 frs.
Apartments.--One room, from 2 frs. 50 cents to 6 frs. per day, according to position and size.
Doctors at the Establishment, a few independent, and others from Luz.
Post and Telegraph Office in the season.
Carriages, Horses, and Asses in abundance; apply at the hotels.
Guides.--Of the 1st class: Bastien, Teinturier, Michael Pontis, Menvielle, &c. &c. for the lofty peaks; several of the 2nd class for minor excursions.
Chief Excursions::--
For the Promenade Horizontale and the Vallée de Lienz, refer to