Part 59

At this enlightened age of the world we hear so little of cannibalism, that were I not an eye-witness, I also should be doubtful. I lauded with a party here on the shore, proceeded through the bush, was carried on the shoulders of our Kroomen sailors, through the pools of water, and came to the village of Bonny, composed of huts of reed, plastered with mud, covered with palm leaves, without any attempt at ornament or architecture in construction on lines of alleys or streets. A party of girls and boys, of some ten years of age, whose dress consisted of a string of beads about the loins, and with long poles in hand, were trying to drive out a “guana” [a species of lizard] into the marsh, and he persisted in not going voluntarily. This brute was five feet in length, harmless, and one of their fetisches [idols]. They would punch him along, and turn him with their poles, at which he would bite, but they dared not lay hands on the holy animal. Woe to the man who inadvertently or wilfully kills one! We were then told that the heads of the two prisoners who were killed, and whose bodies were eaten the day previous, were in front of the Joujou House, or heathen temple, to which we repaired. We found the head of a female, some eighteen years of age, having good teeth and features, but little distorted, notwithstanding the beheading with a dull axe. The man appeared to have been forty years of age. A party of men were dancing like wild Indians around the heads, and in front of the mud temple, to the sounds of tom-toms, or kettle-drums, reed flutes, &c.; the Joujou men, or priests, were singing monotonous and discordant songs. The heads of the victims began to smell, rendering the feast, perhaps, more acceptable to the priests’ wives, whose privilege it is to have soup made from the heads, after which the whitened skulls will be placed upon a rude platform, standing in front of the temple, which now contains the craniums and bones of the last victims; and these ghastly relics will add further trophies to the paved floor of the building, whose walls are also provided with scores of others. I have often gazed upon the beautiful and variegated mosaic floors of marble in the churches of Italy, but it had never occurred to me that I should ever see a heathen temple with a mosaic floor of the skulls and bones of prisoners who had been killed and eaten. When I reflected upon the narrow escape we had just made upon this barbarous coast, within a few miles of such wretches, who might now be feasting upon our remains, if thrown helpless in their hands, I could only express my gratitude to heaven for my protection.

CLXI.

MAYUMBA, SOUTH AFRICA, _April 3, 1860_.

I abandoned the good staunch ship, which barely escaped leaving her wreck upon the bar. I there found a little steamer called the Rainbow, which formed a part of the Niger Expedition, but she was not in running order at present. I came down with the Retriever, a small steamer acting as tender for the old one I had left, and we proceeded to the island of Fernando Po, about forty miles from the main land, after getting out of the Gulf of Guinea. The island is fertile, with high mountainous country, and is very gratifying to the eye after the monotonous scenery already passed through. It is occupied by a different race of negroes from those of the African coast, called Boobies, and whose habits and manner are milder and more harmless. They daub their bodies, faces, and wool with red clay, and one of their belles squatted on the ground before a small mirror, adorning herself, her only garment being a strip of a handkerchief, would certainly be considered a droll sight in a civilized country. They differ from all the negro races of the African coast, whose reputation for chastity is not remarkable. The crime of adultery is punished there with the loss of the right arm, and in some cases is enforced.

Tornadoes are not infrequent in the Gulf of Guinea. We experienced one on our way down from Bonny. I was awakened past midnight by terrific peals of thunder and forked lightning, the howling of the winds, and the cry of officers upon deck. Looking out, I perceived amid the vivid flashes of lightning, the naked stalwart figures of the Kroomen, or African sailors. I could only compare the reality of what occurred with the faint efforts of some dark and wild demoniacal scene upon the stage. Our ship did her duty, and we came out safe.

On the African coast one sees many strange phenomena. One evening the whole sea seemed a sheet of phosphorescent brightness, lighting up the night, so that one could almost read. The crest of the waves was tinged with silvery light, and the vessel seemed ploughing through quicksilver. On another occasion, one hundred miles from land, the fine dust and reddish sand covered the deck, the wind bringing these particles from the parched and burning south.

The Spaniards are in possession of the island of Fernando Po, for the second time, having once abandoned it. They are now attempting the re-occupation of the country. The insidious fever is making sad work, and a large part of the colonists have already died. The Governor’s family is on board of a war vessel, and will go back to Spain. It is a singular fact that white females cannot live there. The only lady is the wife of the English Consul, who suffers much from ill health. Quinine is the most valuable article here as an antidote and cure for fever. One of our commanders paid ninety dollars for twenty-nine ounces. When I arrived at Fernando Po, I had reached the terminus of communication by English steamers, and unless I could fall in with some man-of-war, I must retrace my steps. I fortunately found the United States war steamer Mystic, Capt. Leroy, whose brother I had made voyages with in California and Oregon, and his first Lieutenant, Haxton, whom I had known intimately years since. When we met at the English Consul’s house, they expressed their great surprise at meeting one whom they had spoken of recently, in this barbarous part of the world. My desire being to continue down to St. Paul de Loando, and all along the cruising ground of the American squadron, Capt. Leroy kindly offered me the half of his cabin.

We proceeded to Princess Island, one of the group of several, including Fernando Po, which are of volcanic origin. There we made a connexion with the sloop-of-war Portsmouth, to put on board three officers recently from the United States by the war steamer Mohican.

We paid Capt. Calhoun and his ship and officers a visit. They are bound to Madeira, to communicate with the flag officer, Commodore Inman of the Constellation. A day spent in taking in wood and water, and getting supplies of chickens, oranges, limes, bananas, alligator pears, and other fruits, and looking at and admiring the freaks of nature in the formation of peaks, pyramids, domes, cones, and every conceivable feature in scenery, with the richest and most exuberant growth of tropical forests and fruits, we then left for this point, to meet the United States steamer Sumpter, and transfer the correspondence for the vessels on the station below. The discipline and order on board of the Mystic are of a high character, perfect unity and good feeling existing between officers and men, which is so desirable, especially on stations so much exposed and so remote. The Sabbath is strictly observed, with religious exercises. The health of those on board of the ship was remarkably good, which is much to say on this fiery coast, with upwards of one hundred and fifty men.

We have just spoken the British war vessel Archer. This is the fourth English ship cruising for slavers that we have met on the coast thus far. We expect soon to see the Sumpter, when I shall be transferred to her, to proceed down to the Congo River--a great point for the shipping of slaves, and from thence by a schooner to the Portuguese city of St. Paul de Loanda, in latitude eight deg. south. It is the most important settlement of the coast south of Sierra Leone.

We have now crossed the equator, and proceed south. You can imagine the heat, as this is the height of summer. Awnings, umbrellas, fruits, and refreshing drinks, would at times be abandoned willingly for a pound of ice. The African station is the hardest and most wearing upon the constitution of our naval officers. It is withering and weakening, and were it not that they are almost constantly on shipboard it would make sad work with them. Those of the men who are imprudent enough to sleep ashore and expose themselves, suffer the penalty of fever. The crew never have the privilege granted in these latitudes, but occasionally a sailor on shore duty gets astray, and has to suffer the consequences. During a two years’ cruise, if a vessel goes to Saint Helena or Madeira, then the captain avails himself of these healthy points to give his men, in rotation, such hours of liberty as may be deemed prudent.

The British steamer Pluto captured, not long since, the American bark Orion, with seven hundred and fifteen slaves on board, composed of men, women, and children; one hundred and fifty-two had died on the passage, as she started with eight hundred and seventy-one. She was taken to St. Helena, and condemned--the negroes apprenticed as usual. The officers having hauled down their colors and thrown their papers overboard, would have escaped, but this steamer went in pursuit and secured the officers, and sent them to the United States; whether they will be convicted or not, remains to be seen.

CLXII.

ON BOARD U. S. WAR STEAMER SUMPTER, ST. PAUL DE LOANDO, _April 14, 1860_.

I was transferred from the war steamer Mystic, and presented to the officers of the Sumpter, from whom I have received the kindest evidences of hospitality. Captain McDonough offered me his table and cabin, and Lieutenant Stewart, and his brother officers, of the wardroom mess, always make me a welcome guest. A tourist is scarcely ever found on this benighted coast, and for that reason I am well treated. It is only when I find myself out of the way of all civilized lines of communication, that I am willing to trouble either our own officers, or those of foreign governments; but necessity has obliged me to sail under the flags of several.

We met the British war steamer Falmouth, which took the American brig Jehosse, and afterwards released her, the captain abandoned her, as I wrote you, and came in pursuit of an American man-of-war. Lieutenant Stewart came on board to verify the certificates which Captain Fitzroy gave Captain Vincent, who is now with us. He and his officers admitted their signatures. The documents will be sent to the United States, copies having already been forwarded for diplomatic action.

We met the sloop-of-war Marion, Captain Brent, and passed a few hours on board of her, as pleasantly as circumstances would permit, after the disappointment the officers had experienced in not receiving instructions to return home after a two years’ cruise. They expected confidently such orders by the mail we brought down. Fortunately for me, instead of being transferred to a small schooner at the Congo River for this port, the Sumpter was ordered here for supplies at the naval station.

At the Gaboon, a French settlement, they have their barracoons for free labor, which is slavery under another form, and which the English and Americans dare not interfere with. The negroes are enlisted for a term of years, under the payment of a certain sum for service, in the islands of Martinique and Guadaloupe. They are shipped legitimately, and not packed as with slavers, who are forced to watch their opportunity, and escape with as many as possible, without regard to breathing space or supplies of water. The negroes shipped are either slaves already, or pawned for debt, and made to say they are willing--and probably escape much worse bondage than they would in their native country. They certainly do, if they are treated as our negroes in the southern states.

Our ship overhauled recently an American brig, with slave deck laid; but her papers were in order. The captain at first sent a lieutenant and men on board of her, and was going to send her to the United States as a prize, no doubt being entertained of the intention of running off a cargo; but upon reflection and advice, he abandoned the project. If she was not condemned at home, the owners would come upon the captain for all the damages, and his private funds would be taken to pay for it. The government does not assume the responsibility. If commanders do their duty, they must put their property out of their hands, and have nothing to lose. They can then take suspicious vessels and send them to the United States--but they may have judgments hanging over them all their lives. It is an undisputed fact, that the slave trade is carried on by American vessels mostly, and to the shame of our northern and New England states, whence come the constant cries against the South. A ship which I once made a passage in to Havre, has been fitted out as a whaler, with all the appliances, for the purpose, without doubt, as a decoy, and instead of catching the black whales, they intend to capture another kind of animal of the same color. Her papers are all in order. Captain Goudon, of the new war steamer Mohican, whom I visited on this station, boarded her. She is just out from the United States, and is in suspicious waters, where there are no whales. His excuse is, they wanted some fresh water. She can take a thousand negroes, and is here under the garb of a whaler; but no American officer dare take her without the negroes on board, unless he is made liable for personal damages. The whole thing is a farce. If our government was honest in the suppression of the slave trade, and would take the responsibility of loss in case of failure of confiscation, the trade would soon be lessened.

We have a squadron of four vessels now on the African coast, and three are off active duty. The flag ship is at Madeira, the Portsmouth has just started for that place, and I met the San Jacinto at Teneriffe, going to Cadiz for repairs.

We are expending large sums to keep up a squadron of eighty guns, according to the Ashburton Treaty, and are hunting up the game for the English to bag. They watch and wait, and have their spies; and when the vessels are filled they seize them. The captain, under threat of being handed over to an American man-of-war, and tried for piracy, makes a bargain for his life and the lives of his crew, probably saving some property, hauls down his flag and throws his papers overboard. The Englishman gets his bounty money, and turns over the negroes for colonists for seven years, which probably often means life.

The bay of Loando is deep and tolerably broad; the water close to town is shallow from the washing of the high clay banks, which extend along the coast, and form the upper town. This is the oldest settlement (Portuguese) along the coast, and I notice some old dates, of the year 1600. The slave trade built it up. The Brazil markets were supplied from here. Some fifty thousand were supplied annually. That has ceased, and the town and country become commercial. The soil in the interior is fertile, and produces excellent coffee, which rivals the Mocha in quality. There is a Governor-General, a custom-house, police and military force. The lower town is very sandy and hot. The negro population is large. Slavery continues, but will expire by limitation in ten years. Fever prevails to a considerable extent; the only safeguard is, to sleep on shipboard. No hotels or restaurants are to be found. The merchants who have vessels trading with the United States, Portugal, and other countries, have as large and comfortable houses as possible, and frequently invite friends to their table. The English have a consul and adjudicator for condemned vessels.

The American Consul is connected with a business firm in Salem, who have trading vessels and factories on the coast. At Quecimbo, a bartering point along shore, we found four factories, or bungalows, English, Dutch, and American. They are constructed of reed and palm, large, light, and airy, inclosing courts or yards by picket-worked fences, and there they are without protection from the natives, other than a few fire-arms. An important event occurred there a few days before our visit. A Congo prince, who had been educated in Portugal, wishing to make some reform in the negro administration of matters, was pursued, and took refuge in the English factory. He was demanded by the natives, who surrounded the establishment in thousands. Finding that the building would be sacrificed and given up to pillage, he gave himself up, and was killed within thirty feet, his body cut in pieces, and scattered about. We were surrounded by a group of these black, dirty, and naked subjects--two were called princes, but the only distinction was they wore a sort of cap, while others disdain every covering but the wool.

CLXIII.

ON BOARD PORTUGUESE STEAMER ESTAPHANIA, PROVINCE OF ANGOLA, _April 24, 1860_.

Being so far down on the south-west coast of Africa, my full intention had been to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, if by any possible conveyance I could get there; but it appears I have run out the end of the chain, and no opportunity offering, I must get back by the best possible means. This steamer is my only chance, direct to Portugal, and, if nothing presents itself, I must turn my face again towards Europe, with the prospect of a thirty-five days’ passage, touching along the African coast at Ambriz and the Island of San Tomé, and thence up to the Cape de Verdes.

The captain of the English gunboat Lynx, now bound to the island of Ascension, has kindly offered to take me, through the recommendation of the English consul, but the chance being less of getting away from there I declined.

This is the province where the African traveller, Livingstone, came out when he returned to England. The captain of the Lynx met him recently, on the east coast of Africa.

The colonial government here is in trouble. I noticed Portuguese and black soldiers going on board of a brig moored near us. The negroes rose near Ambriz in large numbers, attacked the troops, and succeeded in killing and driving into the river some one hundred and forty men. One of the officers, who dined with a government employé where I was invited the other day, narrowly escaped with his life.

The heat is now most oppressive and overpowering. We have frequent thunderstorms with vivid lightning, which tends to purify the atmosphere. It is far the safest to sleep on shipboard, as the fever is prevailing ashore.

Maxillas are used for moving about the town of Loanda, as the least exertion produces violent perspiration, and exposure to the sun brings disastrous results. The mode of conveyance is somewhat like the palanquin in the East Indies, but not so spacious or convenient. You are carried by two negroes, instead of four or six, as are used there. Here a sort of sofa bottom of cane work is suspended by cords from a light roof, attached to a strong pole, resting upon the shoulders of the bearers. A cushion supports the back, and curtains are floating on each side, which keep off the sun, and the motion produces a gentle breeze. In this manner you make your visits and excursions in the town and suburbs.

There are no American or English men-of-war in port. We have three persons on board waiting for a passage; one a purser of an American man-of-war going home invalided; a Portuguese from Benguela who has exposed himself and got the fever; and myself, afflicted with “Job’s comforters,” which keep off the same disease. Our numbers will be augmented in a day or two.

The English are making great efforts to introduce the culture of cotton in Africa, so as to render them less dependent upon the United States. I heard at Acra, on the Gold Coast, that a few bales had been shipped to Liverpool. In Liberia I learned that the Manchester Cotton Association had sent medals and fifty pounds sterling as premiums, for the encouragement of the growth of the plant in that district. I learned also at Bonny that two bales, purchased at Rabba on the Niger, had been brought down by the Rainbow, attached to the Niger expedition, which is the first from that country. The captain reports he could have filled his ship with uncleaned cotton. The price of the cleaned was from three to four cents per pound, our currency, uncleaned about one cent. Another report said one hundred and fifteen pounds of cotton in the seed were bought for five and-a-half yards of cotton velvet and eight pounds of salt. There is plenty of raw cotton, and gins and presses are all that is required to produce a merchantable article. If the English persevere and the natives turn their attention to cotton, there is no calculating what the production might in time amount to; but there is this satisfaction for the American planter, the consumption is rapidly increasing, and there is not much fear of a surplus for years to come. The culture of the plant, as I have seen it in Algeria and the East Indies, cannot come in competition with the negro labor at the South; but we may rest assured that the British are using every means possible to have it produced, and make themselves less subject to our Southern King Cotton.

I must say something of a peculiar race of negroes on the African coast, who seem far superior to their fellows. They are the Kroomen, who make invaluable sailors for men of-war-and merchant vessels, and indeed are indispensable for all labor on shipboard, saving the white mariners from service and consequent fever. They are generally large, stalwart, well-formed men, obedient and industrious. They are shipped in Monrovia by vessels of war for the cruise, and receive from five to eight dollars per month, the chief as much as twelve dollars. In Sierra Leone, merchant vessels procure them for five dollars per month. Many of them understand a little English, and they could not be made slaves of without great difficulty. They rather look down with contempt upon common negroes. On shipboard they answer to the call of the roll. Some names given them are so ludicrous one can scarcely refrain from laughing when he hears them. Some bear the names of ships upon which they have sailed, and feel highly flattered in consequence, such as Constitution, Congress, Vincennes, Dale, &c., but the others, Up Side Down, Tom Bottle, Sunbeam, Main Mast, Main Hatch, Joe Propeller, Inside Out, Tar Bucket, Ash Bucket, Last One, Nothing New, and so on, display the extraordinary nomenclature conceived by the Jack Tars. When on duty ashore from men-of-war they wear blue woollen shirts and pants, but always on shipboard they have the privilege of the native waistcloth. They choose their chief, who is at the head of the gang, and whom they obey most rigidly. The Marion will land sixty or more at Monrovia before she leaves the coast for the United States, being the complement of two vessels. They save their money to increase the number of their wives.

The process of coaling here is of the slowest kind, and that of ballasting ships the same. The distance from the shore is considerable, and the manner of doing things is, as the Portuguese language describes it, poco-a-poco, little by little. The coal or ballast is put in at the rate of thirty-six tons per day, with baskets like good-sized soup dishes, passed from hand to hand, not unlike the old-fashioned system of handing buckets at a fire.

No freight of consequence is offering, as the disturbance in the country has checked the movement. Ordinarily elephants’ tusks, palm oil, gum, coffee, etc., are coming forward.