Part 51

Balaklava is now a miserable village, but when its little basin was occupied by the English and French vessels it must have produced a lively effect. The streets and roads approaching it are well paved as left by the troops. The track of the railroad is still discernible. The black coal depositories show where the iron horse was stalled. The heaps of broken bottles show the consumption of the troops, and reminded me of the Ranchos on the Isthmus of Panama after the passage of an army of gold diggers. The high rocks at the narrow entrance bear the white letters painted by the English--“Powell Point,” “Castle Bay,” “Cossack Point,” &c.

We have had blustering winds and an unusually boisterous sea, so say the residents, giving an opportunity of judging of the fierce waves of the Black Sea along the iron bound coast, which shipwrecked so many of the vessels of the combined squadron.

I here left my horses and droski, and took the post, the usual mode of quick travel in Russia. I had taken out a Padorozna from the authorities for horses from Balaklava to Alushta and then to this place, in order to take the steamer for Theodosie and Kertch, upon the straits of Azof. In this manner I can visit the whole length of the south coast of the Crimea of any interest. The distance to the place named is one hundred and fifty-two wersts, of three-fourths of a mile each, for which one pays six kopecks per werst; the greasing of the wheels at each post station is twelve kopecks, and a gratuity to the driver in addition. Your vehicle is changed at every station. It is a rude wagon, without springs, built in the form of a scow boat cut off at both ends, and about eight feet long, with low wheels. The seat is a net of ropes from the hind stakes, with quantities of hay or straw. The same for the driver in front. Two bony nags are attached, and you are now at his mercy. The horses are kept on the run, the extreme distances in Russia making it necessary, but woe to the traveller who is not accustomed to it. It is wild and furious travelling.

The post houses are furnished by the crown, and are known by the high, square, box-like posts of white and black colors, with distances marked thereon; for instance, on the main line, to St. Petersburgh two thousand two hundred wersts, and in like manner on the side roads. A sitting room is furnished with a sofa, chair, and table, and in case of bad weather, or no inn, one is under shelter, and sometimes something may be found to eat.

The Russian nobility travel in their own carriages, and carry their tea machines for preparing tea, heavy fur cloaks for sleeping, &c. The best and largest hotel in Odessa, for example, gives you a plainly furnished room, with an ofen for heating purposes, if required, and a bed without linen, for from six to ten francs, say from one dollar and twenty cents to two dollars, per day. Bed covering, towels, and lights are charged extra. You take your meals in your own room, or at the restaurant, for which you pay _à la carte_, at the time, or it is put in your bill. You will thus perceive a wide difference from our American plan.

At my first station from Balaklava, I found the Tartar village of Bidar, quite deserted during the war. The occupants of this beautiful valley, filled with pear, apricot, and other trees, had left for Constantinople, and their return is not permitted. In the hands of an industrious people, it would be very valuable.

My next relay crossed the mountain pass, where the sea, valleys, deep precipices, and vineyards presented themselves instantly on the passage of a tunnel, very like a mountain road from Genoa to Spezzia, celebrated for its beauty.

The zigzag road, with short curves, was driven over more rapidly than within my experience, the horses on full trot, or galloping down the mountain. I could hold my seat with difficulty, but said nothing. I timed my watch at the foot of the mountain, and found we had made fifteen wersts in three-quarters of an hour. The Russian youth turned towards me for a look of approbation, pocketed his Navodki, and was soon off for Alupka, the palace of prince Woranzow, the most magnificent private affair; perhaps, in Europe. The grounds, gardens, and vineyards occupy miles, beautifully situated on the Black Sea, sheltered from the cold by a southern exposure. The palace, or castle, is of Gothic architecture, and was finished in 1852 by an English architect. It has been building many years, and is of Crimean granite. Six noble lions, of Carrara marble, in Canova style, standing, crouching, and sleeping, guard the staircase on the water side. Pavilions, a Greek church, a mosque, flowers, fruit trees, and miles of drives, comprise the beauties. Such an outlay as three millions of roubles in this remote country, can only be expected of a Russian noble with two hundred thousand serfs, or more, besides immense wealth differently invested. He lived to accomplish this work, and died, leaving an only son, who resides in Paris.

My next point was Orianda, the new palace and grounds of the ex-empress of Russia, who has never seen it, but is expected this summer. The palace cost only half a million of roubles, or four hundred thousand dollars. It is neat, substantial, well arranged, and is furnished richly, but in good taste. Several of the rooms and fountains are after the Pompeian style.

This is the resort of Russian nobility for the autumn months, during the grape season. Many have estates and splendid residences, but are seldom here. I have chosen the best season for visiting this region.

The little village from which I write is in the midst of lovely gardens, the trees now in full bloom. The grape vines are putting forth their leaves. The mountain side is dotted with occasional Tartar villages of rude cottages, the peaks in the distance contrasting with the green sea, whose waves are breaking upon the gravelly beach, with no sign of shells. The water is saltish, without smell from sea weed.

The only decent hotel I have yet found in the Crimea, is the little one here upon the seaside, kept by a Frenchman and his English wife, both of whom were servants in a Russian noble family. It is a luxury, indeed, with its neatness and comfort; and meals are served up in one’s one room, according to European taste. I am the only guest at present. The lulling sound of the waves induces repose, which I much needed, and I am quite unwilling to leave the spot.

The only person in the town who speaks English, except the landlady, is her little boy, who converses also in French with his father, and Russian besides. I find the German more useful than the French for the traveller in this region who does not know Turkish or Russian, as there are several colonies of Germans.

This country being new and sparsely settled, money has less value, and the luxuries of life are difficult to obtain without great expenditure, which will prevent visitors or permanent residents from coming here.

The valleys abound with pasturage, and cattle may be raised in quantities; but the Tartar race is lethargic, and works only when necessity compels. They tell me fresh butter cannot be had at even a rouble, or eighty cents, per pound. Their wants are few, and the pipe is their only solace.

This being the fast of forty days my Fourgon driver, to whom I offered refreshments, refused, but watched the waning sun, procured a bottle of boza, a sort of acid drink made from flour, and bought a wheaten cake, and the moment the last rays disappeared the poor fellow swallowed his morsel, and drained his draught with a good relish. If the land could be relieved from this race by sending them to Turkey, and their places occupied by German colonists, it might be made a flourishing country.

I attended yesterday a village interment. The corpse of the defunct was in an uncovered coffin, draped with crimson plush, and supported by bearers by means of cords two or three feet from the ground. After the ceremonies in the pretty little Russian chapel on the top of a hill, with its stained glass windows, tiny turrets and spire, surrounded by flowers and plants, the body of the man, preceded by the noble-looking Greek priests in full robes, with long flowing hair and beard, crucifix in hand, chanting a funeral hymn, and friends carrying burning candles, was borne to the neat cemetery, where further ceremonies were performed. When the crimson lid, with the white figures of the cross upon it, was nailed on and lowered in the grave, the despair of the women, as they were called upon to throw stones and earth upon it, was frightful, and brought to mind that command of scripture, “Weep with those that weep.” Home, with near, and dear, and departed friends, came suddenly in the memory.

The service over, a large dish of rice, covered with raisins and sugar, is passed to the priest, who applies the spoon, and it then goes the rounds, the boys and idlers coming in for the balance.

CXXXVII.

TIFLIS, CAPITAL OF GEORGIA, _June 6, 1858_.

From Yalta, I embarked for Theodosie and Kertch, upon the Straits of Azoff. The former place is designated as the terminus of the railroad from Moscow, as its harbor never freezes.

Kertch was partly burned by the allies during the war. Its population is some fifteen thousand. It has a good harbor for vessels bound either for ports in the Black Sea, or going up the Sea of Azoff for cargoes of grain. There were some fifty sail of all kinds at anchor.

In company with the French and English consuls I rode some fifteen miles to the Sea of Azoff, visiting also some extensive Tumuli, or mounds for cemeteries, in which have been found very interesting relics, supposed to be from the reign of king Mithridates, 132 years before Christ. They are quite similar to those I once found in Upsal, in Sweden. The masonry is in a perfect state of preservation. The prairie country extends for miles about the city, and hares are found in great abundance. Our horses and dogs gave them a fine chase.

I took a steamer at Kertch for the Asiatic side of the Black Sea, passing along the Circassian coast with its towering snow-capped mountains. The small ports or roadsteads are occupied by the Russian military, which cannot get a foothold in the interior.

Heavy weather prevented our arrival at Soukum Kale until the second day. It is a bad roadstead, but beautifully situated amid the greenest and most luxuriant vegetation, reminding me of the West Indies or the coast of Venezuela, by its prolific growth. The little colony being among roses and acacias in full bloom, the air is odoriferous with perfume. The inhabitants are, however, virtually imprisoned, the heights being occupied by barracks, and troops who cannot go beyond a certain limit.

The villages of the Abasiens are seen in the distance, and we would fain have taken horses for a ride thither, but were warned not to walk even, beyond a certain point, under the penalty of a ball from the enemy. Notwithstanding the chief of the tribe is friendly and under pay from the Russian government, and we saw him and his harem on board of a steamer put at his disposal, still his people are not reliable, and the Russians cannot penetrate the country, but are obliged to make a detour by Redout Kale, where we landed the following day.

It is bad, like all the other roadsteads along the coast, and frequently the semi-monthly steamers cannot land, and passengers are obliged to wait a month to embark. The breakers were rolling strongly, but we landed at the mouth of the little river Orion, at the miserable town, among such a rough, bandit-looking race as one seldom sees. The captain of the post was very civil, and invited my companion and myself, to dine and occupy part of his miserable quarters, until we could lay in a stock of provisions and supplies for voyage in the interior.

I had imagined and was prepared for a rough time in visiting these regions, but the reality far exceeded my expectations. A Russian officer, attached to the General’s staff of the Circassian army, accompanied me, and was provided with a Poderozna, or authority for horses and escort. He came directly from St. Petersburg, and found himself equally disappointed.

We were provided with saddle horses for ourselves and others for our luggage, and supplied with Cossack guides well armed. We made seventy-two wersts in this manner, passing through a lovely country, among trees of great growth and freshness, and woods in places filled with wild grape-vines. There are no general roads, and we travelled mostly by paths.

Our first night was passed under the roof of an old peasant, with his wife, and a little boy and girl in ragged clothes, as our companions. The one-roomed hut was thatched with straw, and had an opening in the side for the escape of the smoke from a fire built on the earth floor in the centre. A few eggs roasted in the cinders were all that could be procured, with the exception of a small kettle to boil our tea water in, and a few bundles of straw upon which to spread our blankets. We had forgotten candles in our list of supplies, and I was quite amused at the manner in which the deficiency was supplied. The woman had some yellow wax, and tore off a strip of her shawl to make the wick, upon which it was twisted.

When we arrived at the village of Marvan we procured post horses over natural roads, in the rudest vehicle in the world, upon seats made of hay, with ropes stretched across.

The country is diversified, consisting of valleys, prairies, and mountains. The mountain roads have been made by the Russian troops, who are found throughout the country, but are miserably made and dangerous. Many small and rapid streams are crossed. Nature in her primeval state presents many beautiful views. The distant Circassian mountains covered with snow, and the plains, remind me of California and Oregon.

Agriculture is of the most primitive kind. Wooden ploughs drawn by eight yoke of oxen are used. Cattle and horses are seen in abundance, but the people have no idea of comfort or luxury. Their caps are of sheepskin, the curled woolly side out. They carry from twelve to sixteen bone or reed cartouche boxes sewed on, or attached to the breast of the dress, and with their long carabines on the back, and cutlasses at the side, are always prepared for an attack of the enemy. This has from long use become the national costume.

The villages more remote from the coast are almost entirely under ground. The huts have the front part raised to the height of half a story, and the roofs run back to a level with the ground, covered with sod and earth; and there they burrow, surrounded by a beautiful and fertile country, capable of producing everything, but still in a state of semi-barbarism.

We were five days making the distance. The stations where horses are changed are mostly miserable affairs--infinitely worse than in the north of Russia, and exceedingly filthy. There are some exceptions, where supplies can be procured. One who makes this journey is called upon to suffer privations and fatigues of all kinds, and any one but a Russian or an old traveller would be disheartened at the outset. This season of the year is the most favorable, and the voyage to this place is now accomplished.

This city is curious to visit in many particulars. It has a population of sixty thousand, composed of a great variety of races, Armenians, Persians, Georgians, Turks, Jews, Russian military, and some twelve hundred officers, who are not permitted to go out without their swords, as the whole country is in a state of war with the Circassians.

Prince Bariatanski is the Viceroy, and has supreme power. There are some three hundred thousand troops scattered over this whole territory, to defend the mountain passes from the attacks of Schamyl and the Circassians, and to keep open the communication with the North and the Caspian Sea.

The city is upon the banks of a rapid river or torrent, and is surrounded by high hills, which renders it now very hot. There is a strange compound of civilization and barbarism here. There is a handsome theatre, bazaars, the palace and garden of the Viceroy and of the former King, now occupied by his son, a fine botanical garden newly laid out, well built bridges and houses for officials, and a colony of Germans living neatly and comfortably, while beside them are the early inhabitants of the country, whose huts are scarcely above the surface, and who live among fleas and filth.

Droskies and other fine carriages and horses, extravagance in the dress of the females, and beautiful Georgian ladies of the upper classes, with their picturesque head-dresses, abound.

Russian gold and silver flows like water; a hundred millions of rubles are expended yearly to keep up the war, which has lasted now thirty years, and is still without much prospect of a close.

This former capital of the Georgian kings, which is some three hundred and fifty wersts in the interior, was abandoned to the Russians about the beginning of the present century; the people finding themselves no longer able to resist the attacks of the Persians, Turks, and Armenians, who ravaged the country and carried off the women and children as slaves.

The commandant of the city, who speaks Russian, German, and French, has shown me many civilities. The only consuls here are the French and Persian; to the former I am also indebted. The hotels are execrable. The French adventurers have succeeded well in the introduction of Paris fineries, as money has but little value; comparing favorably with California in its infancy.

All advise me to pass up through the Circassian mountains to the north, as the weather is now hot, and there is less danger and delay from avalanches, and the passes are less infested by bandits. I shall probably go in company with a Russian officer, and have an escort when necessary.

CXXXVIII.

PIATIGORSK, CIRCASSIA, _June 12, 1858_.

I must give you some details of the trip to this place, across the Circassian mountains, and over the fortified road dividing the territory of Schamyl; to the right coming up towards the Caspian Sea and the Circassians, and on the left bordering on the Black Sea.

We left the scorching city at five P.M., and were glad to escape the intense heat. We made two stations, thirty-four wersts, when horses were not forthcoming until early the next morning. The station was one of the most miserable on the route, and between filth and vermin we were glad to leave at four A.M.

My companion, a Georgian captain in the Russian service, and myself occupied a Tarantas, a wagon of the country, with a carriage body mounted on long poles, the servant in front.

At seven o’clock we discovered that the baggage had been cut away from the rear of the vehicle, entailing considerable loss to my companion. My own baggage was fortunately in front. Information was given to the officer in command at the next village to send Cossacks in pursuit of the offenders. The wheels of our vehicle showed signs of weakness, and the smith’s services were called to cut and renew the tires, much to his advantage, as those who travel in carriages are expected to pay.

Towards sunset of the second day we commenced the ascent of the mountains over a miserably rocky road, at a snail’s pace, with eight yoke of oxen, and arrived at a station where the night was passed. It was a lovely evening, pleasantly cool, and the snow-capped peaks of the mountains of El Brus and Casbeck, from fourteen thousand to sixteen thousand feet high, by the light of a full moon, were magnificent to gaze upon.

An early start, with relays of horses at each station, carried us over the zigzag winding roads, which are without parapet walls. The drivers are exceedingly expert in the management of their three horses abreast, coursing along the margin of yawning precipices, hundreds of feet in depth. The mountain torrents and the remains of avalanches did not retard our progress. The season, however, favored us, as travellers are sometimes detained for weeks.

The wild and savage appearance of the country, the rudely constructed roads, the primitive costume of the people, who are partly dressed in skins, and nearly all armed, the fortified passes, the galleries in the rock, the narrow defiles occupied by the Russian soldiery, to prevent the attacks of the Circassians, and the feeling that you are liable to be arrested and carried into captivity, or shot by them, kept up a different state of feeling than that caused by ordinary travel.

We passed several fortresses well provided with soldiers, arms, and ammunition, to protect the road. The men are employed in constructing or repairing the route, as the Russian soldier performs the most menial service, and is not exempt until after twenty-five years. The term is, however, reduced under the present emperor. His pay and supplies are a mere bagatelle, and he is a machine, obeying the will of his officer.

The road is now considered tolerably safe, with the exception of the stations where a ball may be sent through the unsuspecting traveller.

The Russian troops are gradually hemming in Schamyl on one side, and the Circassians on the other. Both are Mussulman races, but have little intercourse, as Schamyl is the leader of a fanatical people who repose all confidence in their chief. The pasturage and tillage grounds have been taken from them, and they are now more closely lodged in the fastnesses of the mountains, and with less means of life. The Circassians on the Black Sea can obtain contraband supplies from Turkey, via Trebizond, and can dispose of their children to advantage, the girls looking forward with pleasure to the sale and prospect of occupying an important position in the harems.

During the war of the allies, Schamyl made a descent when least expected, and carried off two Georgian princesses and their children. They suffered much from cold in the mountains, although well treated. The ransom demanded by the robber chief was his son, who was taken by the Russians when eight years old, and sent to St. Petersburg for his education, besides eight millions of roubles. They not knowing the value of money, ten ox-carts loaded with small coins were forwarded, with his unwilling son, now grown to manhood in civilized society, and the exchange was made, much to the satisfaction of distressed families and friends.

The Circassians are most dexterous horsemen, and fond of adventure among themselves. A man who has not shown acts of daring is little considered; while if he can bring down the enemy, or take him captive in order to obtain a ransom, he has done acts worthy of the consideration of the people. One year since, in the place from which I write, the little son of a physician was picked up by a mounted Circassian, and carried out of sight before the alarm was fully given. A ransom of a thousand roubles was demanded, but the government is opposed to the payment of tribute, and he is still among them.

We arrived the third night at Vlada Kaukas, prettily situated upon a rapid river, or mountain torrent, a pleasant town of Russian creation, the residence of the officials of the district, civil and military, containing the barracks, hospitals, &c. The houses are built of stone, wood, and unburnt bricks, many covered with iron roofs, painted green, as indeed are almost all the Russian churches, which produces a cheering effect after seeing nothing but straw roofs in the interior.

We could here renew our supplies, as it must be remembered nothing can be obtained to eat or drink on the road in these wild countries. The stations are furnished with a few chairs, or wooden sofas, to pass the night upon, and a Semivar, or tea machine for hot water, with which to prepare your own tea, can always be obtained. All other appliances for sleeping, and to support life, you must carry with you, or starve.