Part 41

Not only are fine-looking, healthy girls seen constantly in the fields, performing men’s labor, but in the cities they perform the most menial service of wood-sawing, sweeping streets, and loading carts with offal. How often I think of our blessed country, the paradise of women, and the thousand advantages they enjoy there, in comparison with their sisters in continental Europe. Not only is the sex compelled to perform a full quota of the service, but the brute creation must also perform its part. I have often thought how odd it would appear with us, to see the butchers’ and bakers’ carts, and milk wagons, drawn by collared and harnessed dogs, and the novel sight of single cows, or spans of cows, coming to town with loads of grain or vegetables. The truth is, when carpenters and masons obtain but fourteen groschens, or forty-two cents, per day, and laborers from twenty-five to thirty cents, and the necessaries of life are at the present dear rates, every measure is resorted to for earning an honest living.

The lager, or encampment, of fourteen thousand men, is situated in the suburbs of the city. The citizen army is composed of thirty thousand men.

We have just had a sham fight, which was seen to great advantage from a hill in the vicinity of the plain upon which the manœuvre took place, and gave a good idea of the battle-field. The approach of the marching forces, to the sound of drum and fife, and shrill tones of the bugle, and the bayonets glittering in the sun’s rays, were exciting. The cavalry was led by the king in person. Then came the conflict, the thundering noise of the cannon; the continued volleys of musketry from the infantry; the reconnoitring movements of the riflemen; the dashing charges of the horsemen, half-buried in smoke; the retreats, the reforming of the ranks; the advantages gained and lost; the leaps of the horsemen over artificial stockades and sloughs of water; the queen and royal family, with liveried outriders, drawn by and mounted upon magnificent steeds, hovered around the borders of the battle-field.

The thousands of citizens on this festival day crowning the heights, and the enthusiasm manifested, gave interest to the scene.

CIII.

BREMEN, GERMANY, _Nov. 21, 1854_.

My last was from Hanover. I now write from this free port and commercial city, situated upon the banks of the Weser, which river divides the old and new town. Its gardens are laid out in English style, giving the new town a neat appearance, and many improvements have been made since my visit in the summer of 1848.

Small vessels come to the city, but the larger class of steamers and ships remain at Bremen harbor, a few leagues below.

The chief trade is with America. The quantity of cigars manufactured from our tobacco is enormous, employing some thousands of persons, and scattering the manufactured article throughout this land of smokers.

The number of emigrants forwarded to America is scarcely credible.

In most of the German cities, under the “Rathhaus,” or town hall, is a wholesale and retail wine cellar, the profits of which accrue to the church, bishopric, or city authorities, according to the circumstances of an early granted privilege. Since the German reformation the right here belongs to the municipality: and the cellars under the town-hall are shown to strangers as among the prominent curiosities of the city. The long succession of basements contains the choice qualities of Rhine wine, in huge oak casks, varying in size, the largest containing thirty-six thousand bottles of “_Rudesheimer_,” of the vintage of 1806. The heads of the mammoth casks are well braced by cross pieces, with sculptured allegorical and historical figures in wood, and highly gilded. In one room, the god Bacchus, and his followers, of life size, all gilded and crowned with wreaths of grape vines filled with fruit, are seated upon the centre of one of three large vats, dating back as far as 1624. One of the cellars most renowned for quality is called the Rose, and another the Twelve Apostles, from its containing only twelve casks, whose names are painted upon metal plates, which are attached to the heads. The wine in these casks is the delicious, light _Hockheimer_ Rhine wine of 1718. The rivalry lies between Peter, Simon, and Judas. A manager is appointed by the city authorities, subject to the supervision of the director, and monthly reports are made. City funds are appropriated, and the supply is kept up from the last vintages, so that the public may be supplied with a pure article at moderate prices. A large old sign, in the _Rose Keller_, has the following inscription, literally translated from the German: “What to the stomach, to the body, and to the heart, health, vigor and spirit can give, can console the afflicted, can revive half dead persons, yields this Rose wine.”

CIV.

HANOVER.

Hanover lies on the small river Liene, and is the royal residence. It contains the city palace, the summer palaces and grounds; among the number is the _Herren Hausen_, with fountains, orange and botanical gardens. In the latter is a palm house, of iron and glass, a crystal palace in miniature--which is unique of its kind. It is kept at an oriental temperature, and almost all the varieties of palm and date trees familiar to me in the East and West Indies, are to be found there. The mausoleum, at the extremity of the ground, is a snug edifice, containing the royal remains of the late king and queen. The beautiful, full length figure of the deceased queen, in white Carrara marble, is a fine specimen of art, and is very like the much-admired reposing statue of the queen of Prussia. The wilds and forests of the king, extending for miles in the suburbs, give the citizens a variety of walks and drives in different directions.

It is evident that the Germans, unlike the English, never paid for light and air in the shape of a window tax. The old part of the city is literally a town of windows; many are beautified with plants and flowers, fancy screens and porcelain views, which give it an enlivening appearance, in contrast with the gable-ended, projecting, overhanging houses.

The _Konigliche Hoftheatre_ is a pretty monument to the memory of the late king, Ernest Augustus, standing upon a beautiful site, two hundred and eighty feet front, and one hundred and ninety deep; the front portico is surmounted by life-size statues of twelve celebrated writers and composers, among whom are Goethe, Schiller, Mozart, Beethoven, Shakespeare, Molière, and others. The interior decorations are luxurious for Germany. In the middle of the front range of boxes, is the king’s loge, the inside of which is white and gold, covered with the royal arms; outside are velvet curtains.

The theatre is regarded as instructive and moral, and is unlike what it is in many countries. I was accompanied thither by a very worthy minister and his wife, and the daughter of another divine, whom I had travelled with up the Rhine, and who accidentally visited the city.

The officers of the army, nearly a hundred in number, are obliged to subscribe monthly; their uniform gives the theatre a stiff, military air, unlike that of the Thalia Club, which has fifteen hundred members, or annual subscribers, with reading rooms, billiard rooms, refreshment saloons, and a theatre four times per week, which is fully attended by the respectable middle classes of ladies and gentlemen, and looks quite democratic.

The Museum Club, of which I am a member, is composed of three hundred, a large proportion of whom are active or retired civil and military officers.

Here all is marked out by rule. So many branches of trade of each description are allowed by royal authority. Application must be made for permission to engage in an occupation; if it is considered that there are already sufficient of that branch, the applicant is refused.

Such is the fondness for title or rank, which pervades most classes, that the smith, shoemaker, tinman, or tailor, is delighted when he attains the privilege of putting up the royal arms on his sign, to signify that he is employed by his Majesty.

We have had a German Fair, which brought together a multitude from the surrounding country and cities. Aside from the cattle show, I was struck with the varieties of manufactured articles, the exhibition of toys, curious costumes of the peasant girls, the playing of mountebanks, and the general consumption of honey cakes.

CV.

BRAUNSCHWEIG, GERMANY, _Dec. 26, 1854_.

My last was from Hanover. Braunschweig, the capital city of the duchy, notwithstanding its princely residence and forty thousand inhabitants, has not the life and activity generally observed in Hanover. The palace and grounds of the Herzog, or Duke Wilhelm, merit attention. Having no wife, or family, his court is not brilliant in proportion to the royal family of Hanover, although his own private revenue and ducal appointments are equal to two hundred thousand dollars of our currency; a very respectable sum for a population of two hundred and fifty thousand. The former Duke, who had his palace burned over his head, and was chased from his country for malconduct, I had occasion to speak of last winter, at a court ball given at the Tuileries. The present duke is the last of his family, and, being without issue, the reversion goes to the Prussian crown.

Christmas is an important festival in Germany; the city presented a gay appearance in consequence of the many preparations for this event. The market places were covered with Tannen Baumer, or fir trees, with booths and tents filled with every variety of fancy articles, for presents, not forgetting a profusion of honey cakes in every form, for which the town has a celebrity. All classes must have large or small fir trees standing upon platforms, some of which are decorated with inclosed garden houses in miniature, and other designs.

Returning here in time for the Christmas-eve ceremonies, which I had a good opportunity of seeing at a friend’s house, you will pardon my describing, at this holiday season, what may interest the young. In the centre of the saloon stood a small tree, nearly the height of the ceiling, its branches hung with variegated colored glass balls, round cakes, nuts in gold-and silver-leaf foil, confectionery of various kinds, the infant Jesus in a lying position suspended from the branches, the whole interspersed with wax tapers. The tables were spread with a variety of clothing, and other useful and ornamental articles for the children of from eight to fourteen years of age, who were anxiously waiting outside the closed folding doors until the illumination took place; then, each one rushed to his or her table, expressing childish astonishment and delight. Once recovered from their emotions, the parents were surprised in turn by the children, who had prepared a miniature tree and many little articles of embroidery, wrought at intervals unknown to the elders. The expressions of wonder and joy are general. Grandmothers, aunts, and nieces, had been industriously employed for the past three weeks in preparing gifts. The servants next received their presents. The evening closed with refreshments.

Speaking of Christmas Eve, I am reminded of Polterabend, or Nuptial Eve: some evenings since, I was startled by extraordinary sounds upon the sidewalk, opposite my house, and on inquiring, found that it was caused by the throwing of glass bottles and a perfect shower of old crockery plates, which singular custom was the greeting of the friends of a young lady who was to be married on the following day; and, at the appointed time, the carriages arrived to take the lady-bride to the church over which the minister-groom presided. I have passed houses, where the front entrances appeared as if a family quarrel had made a perfect wreck of the porcelain.

The people in Hanover are dazzled with palaces, horses, carriages, and liveried court-dresses, and servants. Ladies look with admiration upon the queen, and her richly-clad maids of honor; children exclaim, “There goes the pretty little crown-prince and the princesses!” And how often have I observed in theatres and concerts the patient people waiting a half hour or more the arrival of the royal suite before the exercises commenced, when the impatient Americans, in similar circumstances, would have brought down the house over the ears of the manager. Then the cringing manner of the employees and military officers, keeping an eye on the king: when he applauds, the applause becomes universal, while, if he is silent, a meritorious artist receives, perhaps, not the slightest compliment.

One great source of annoyance in Germany, is the great variety of coin and weights in use among the thirty and more different empires, kingdoms, duchies, and landgraves, whereby we must always lose in exchange in going from one point to another. An effort has been made in the Bund, or confederacy, at Frankfort, to bring about more uniformity, but the great quantity of base metal, of little value, in use in some districts, causes the measure to be opposed.

1855.

CVI.

BERLIN, PRUSSIA, _Feb. 27, 1855_.

When I last wrote you from Braunschweig I was on the eve of departure for Berlin and Vienna, and thought it not improbable that I might go again to Italy; but the severe winter weather coming suddenly on induced me to quiet myself in comfortable quarters in this city, where from the conveniences for heating with the use of wood, the cold is less felt than in some parts of Italy. Hamburg, Magdeburg, and Potsdam, _en route_ to Berlin, I had once visited in summer, under more favorable circumstances, consequently my stay in them was short.

I was reminded in Magdeburg that Martin Luther, one of the great men whom Germany has given to the world, and to whose former abode in Wittenburg, where the Reformation commenced, I had wended my steps, was a poor student there, and often sang in the streets to assist in supporting himself, as many others are doing daily. Potsdam is to Berlin what Versailles is to Paris. Frederic the Great made it a lovely retreat for the court. Here are seen the apartments of the great warrior nearly as he left them, remarkable for simplicity; the truck-bed upon which he slept, his writing-table blotted with ink, silken covered chairs partly torn by his dogs, and the plates upon which they were fed.

The windmill stands behind the palace of Sans Souci, an emblem of justice in Prussia. Though the story is well known I cannot forbear repeating it. The great Frederic, wanting to buy the mill with the grounds, to augment his gardens, was resisted by the miller, who gained the lawsuit. The king erected the present large mill for him. Since then the descendants of the miller, being in embarrassed circumstances, offered to sell it to the late king, who would not accept the offer, but settled a sum sufficient to enable the family to retain possession, saying the mill belonged to history, and was one of the monuments of the country.

It is now some years since I strolled over the grounds of the Kremlin in Moscow, and it was a reminiscence to find here a little chapel belonging to the Russian colony, surmounted by three domes, of miniature Kremlin form, and beautifully fitted up by the royal munificence for the Greek service.

While in this capital on two former occasions in summer, it struck me as being lifeless. We have cold weather, with ice and snow; the splendid sleighs and horses, adorned with variegated colored feathers, present a lively appearance. The city appears full of life and gaiety; the opera and theatres seem well attended, dancing and music being striking traits in the German character; balls adapted to all classes are continually taking place. The Kroll establishment of the Brandenburg Thor which corresponds to Niblo’s in New York, but is on a more stupendous scale, and compares favorably with anything in Paris for its elegance, among other entertainments, has lately given masquerade balls. Curiosity induced me to attend one, in order to compare it with those of other countries, and found, as I expected, that the people are not adapted to this species of amusement, as in Spain, and in the colonies, where, during the carnival, all classes unite in these diversions in every variety of costume, assuming particular parts, and sustaining them admirably. I had passed a far more agreeable and rational evening, under the folds of the stars and stripes, at the house of Gov. Vroom, of New Jersey, our present worthy representative at the court of Berlin, on the anniversary of the birthday of Washington. There were some twenty-five in number present, representing different States of the Union, who responded to the calls, sentiments, and toasts naturally called forth by the handsome entertainment. The night was cold, cheerful American grate-fires were blazing, and the party conversed together upon home topics. My mind wandered as I saw the beautiful silk banner hanging against the wall, to the last occasion I had had of commemorating this festival. It was at our minister’s house in Brazil, three years since, we mustered a small party of half-a-dozen; the flag was flying from the balcony overlooking the beautiful bay of Rio Janeiro, and the doors and windows were thrown wide open to get a breath of air, the perspiration starting from every pore, and this in the height of a South American summer on the 22d of February.

Most of the Americans here are students who have the advantage of lectures in the University on law, medicine, botany, Egyptian antiquities, and other subjects.

The royal library contains five hundred thousand volumes, and has a public reading-room for students and strangers, who, when recommended, can obtain books the day after their application, to take to their homes. German is badly spoken by the common people of Berlin; the educated classes in society speak the language purely.

You are aware that for many years I have not passed a winter in a northern latitude, and notwithstanding that the present is considered a rigorous one, it is not so cold as we have it at home; still I have felt it sensibly, and suffered while exposed out of doors. Having procured good quarters in a central position, in the vicinity of churches, universities, the museum, opera-house, reading-rooms, with a southern exposure, I should not say that Berlin life is disagreeable, notwithstanding my occasional longing for the balmy temperature and ripe fruits of a West Indian climate. The heating apparatus is called “Ofen;” I have two of them in my apartments. They stand like monuments of white porcelain in the corner of the room, eight feet in height, four feet wide, and two feet deep; they are useful and ornamental; are heated morning and evening, and throw out an agreeable and uniform heat, without any of the noxious vapors of coal. The windows are double sashed, as in Russia, and plants, of which the German people are fond, are flourishing in my parlor.

CVII.

PRAGUE, BOHEMIA, _April 5, 1855_.

Since my last from Berlin, I have revisited Dresden, the capital of the kingdom of Saxony, and am now again in the old city of Prague, the former residence of the Bohemian kings.

While in Berlin, our minister addressed a note to Baron Humboldt, the world-renowned traveller, desiring an appointment, at his convenience, to present an American of some experience, which note was promptly responded to. We were cordially received, and passed an hour very delightfully in the society of this venerable old gentleman, now eighty-five years of age, surrounded by books, charts, and a little museum of his own collection.

The noble old man is still active, and fully retains his memory; he speaks fluently the English, French, and Spanish languages. He inquired ardently about countries it had fallen to my lot to visit, which he had not seen, and expressed regret at my early departure, which prevented further civilities on his part.

He is a great favorite with the king, and is of course a royalist; but he has much sympathy for our country, and regrets the late filibustering movements for the unlawful seizure of our neighbor’s possessions.

Dresden is noted for having the finest collection of paintings north of the Alps, the work of three hundred and thirty-four masters; the masterpiece is Raphael’s Madonna. A number of years had elapsed since I had strolled through these galleries, containing upwards of two thousand pictures, and I saw them with renewed pleasure.

Dresden is also noted in Germany for its musical associations. Madame Goldschmidt, formerly Jenny Lind, has made it her residence. As I had made her acquaintance through her countrywoman, Miss Fredrika Bremer, in the Havana, politeness induced me to pay my respects; she was absent on a tour to Holland.

From Dresden to Bodenback, the Austrian frontier, is two hours’ ride by railway, with a delay of an hour when the passports are demanded, certificates given, examined, and then exchanged, and the luggage changed.

The railways in north Germany belong in part to the different governments, and in part to incorporated companies. Here the cars are differently constructed, being larger and capable of containing more persons, resembling somewhat the American; while in most parts of Europe they are like the English ones, with separate apartments, of coach-form, for eight passengers.

The Austrian custom-houses and police are extremely rigid, and they keep, I am informed, a sharp eye upon Americans since the affair of Kosta. Perhaps the warm reception of Kossuth in our country, and the late European Congress of American Ministers, has had its influence.

In order to show you the smallness of the custom-house here, I will state that I was detained a full half hour in the payment of duty upon twenty-one cigars, which, with the official stamp, were taxed at thirty kreutzers, of which the officers retain one-third. I told them the document was worth the money, as an evidence of pitiful meanness, which I had found in no other part of Europe. On a former occasion, in entering Vienna, my travelling companion had two sealed and fifteen open letters of recommendation seized, which were addressed to different parts of Europe. The next day he was cited to the custom-house, and found two sheets of foolscap paper written over, and a fine of twenty florins imposed, which he resisted, as he spoke German, and threatened to apply to our Minister, when he escaped with the charge of five florins upon the sealed letters.

On entering my room here, I was immediately furnished with a printed sheet, to fill up for the police, with my name, birthplace, occupation, married or single, age, where now from, time of stay, religion, &c.

The language of the Bohemians is unintelligible to the Germans; and I am assured that there are native born persons here, among the lower classes, who cannot make the slightest communication in the German tongue. The names of the streets, and signs, are in both languages.

The strength of Austria, which contains a population of seven millions of Germans against twenty-nine millions of the different races, consists in the variety of languages and religions, as is the case with the British East India Company, through the jealousy and religious feuds of Hindoo, Buddhist, Parsee, and other castes.

I am told that throughout the Austrian domain as many as eighteen languages and dialects are spoken.