Part 39
I rejoiced to get ashore, in the thriving city of Genoa, with civil custom-house officers and few police nuisances, breathing the air of constitutional liberty, and lodging in one of the former palaces, now the Hotel Feder--the inconveniences of the passage made me appreciate good quarters. I found myself casually occupying the apartment where the great Irish agitator, O’Connell, breathed his last.
Notwithstanding several visits to the City of Palaces, I spent a few days profitably. I shall not again describe the contents of the churches, the style of architecture, the marble and gilded decorations of the costly edifices, of the famed republic, but simply state that the intricate streets and numerous lanes, with their tall houses, not unlike those of Venice, have charms after leaving the broad and quadrangular streets of many of the cities of Southern Italy. Horse power is in requisition only in the broad streets and thoroughfares; but it is curious to watch the multitude threading their way through the winding passages, with little shops on each side--the women particularly, with white veils suspended from their heads, and falling over their shoulders.
The cafés and refreshment rooms are, as in all parts of Italy, supplied with the melody of harpists and violin-players of both sexes, who make the circuit, and pick up the crumbs from a musical people.
The gardens and promenades of the Aqua Sole, on the height commanding the harbor and valley, are frequented by all the beauty and wealth of the city on Sunday and other festival days.
On my last visit here Charles Albert, the liberal king, had undertaken the Italian cause against Austria, but had lost his throne, and died in exile.
Then the journey from Genoa to Turin was a fatiguing one of twenty-four hours; now the great railroad is open, and the trip is made in five hours. The distance is one hundred and ten miles; the work was done by the government at an immense expense. The tunnels (one of which, three miles in length, is a stupendous work) are all of arched masonry. Too much money was expended in the construction of this road to permit any interest to be paid: it cost over two hundred thousand dollars per mile.
Turin of late years has made greater advances in improvements than any of the cities of Italy; it may be attributed to its liberal government and the concentration in it of many thousand exiles, including many wealthy families from Lombardy. The full liberty of the press is enjoyed here, and quite as much liberty of speech as is consistent with constitutional government.
The great difficulty in harmonizing or bringing about a union of the Italian states, will be the different dialects. Here the Piedmontese patois is spoken. The journals are in Italian, also the shop signs, and the theatrical performances; but strange to say, the conversation of almost all classes is in the patois, and it is only the shopkeepers and the educated classes who speak Italian or French to strangers. In Genoa, another dialect prevails. In Milan, Venice, and Naples, they have their patois, and cannot understand each other. All this contributes to jealousy instead of unanimity, and enables designing rulers to keep the people in ignorance. The general introduction of railways and common schools would bring about a change.
The Constitutional Anniversary has just passed off with great satisfaction. The son and successor of Charles Albert, king Emanuel, is popular with the masses. He assisted in person, a few days since, at the opening of the new railroad to Suza, at the foot of the Alps.
A famous Amazon race came off on a recent festival day. The parade ground was about three-quarters of a mile in circumference; circles and stands were erected, similar to those in a race-course, to accommodate twenty thousand persons, the centre being occupied by the ladies of the royal household. Thirty thousand persons were spectators. The ladies rode well in the steeple-chase, their horses clearing the bars and mounds with frightful leaps; but they clung to their steeds beautifully.
Just before sunset there was a circus performance on a grand scale. Among the riders was a Hercules in the shape of a mulatto, who galloped two horses, standing erect, one foot on the back of each, and supporting one of the Amazons on his shoulders. The deer hunt was a failure. The deer was but little alarmed, and took it very kindly: the dogs sympathized with the deer, and some of them took to their heels in another direction, much to the amusement of the crowd and the annoyance of the manager, who made an explanation and gave an entertainment for the benefit of the poor.
Turin is, I believe, the only city of Italy where clubs are tolerated. The principal one is composed of the most respectable persons of the city, and occupies a commodious palace, with all the advantages of a library, reading-room, rational amusements, and an excellent table. Through the politeness of Marquis Palavecini, who, with his bride, was with us in southern Italy, I found myself registered upon the privileged list for a fortnight. Upon the tablet of sixteen invited guests, composed of counts, marquises, and barons, two of the number had no title; one of whom, however, was of the sovereign people from America; he dined at the round table d’hôte of eight with the diplomatic circle of Spain, Prussia, Belgium, and Naples. The liveried servants, and the presence of distinguished personages, did not seem in the least to suspend his appetite or prevent his enjoyment of a good dinner.
Turin, with its population of nearly two hundred thousand, its broad and well-paved streets, its long line of porticoes surrounding the public square and extending along the principal thoroughfare, protecting from sun and rain, has its attractions. Its position upon the banks of the Po, with long avenues of shade trees throughout the suburbs, affords fine views. The collection of antique horse armor and coats of mail in the palace, is the finest in Europe after the collection of Madrid.
The scarcity of grain this year diminishes the size of the bakers’ loaves, and the outcry of high prices is general, particularly among the poor, whose principal sustenance is bread and wine, both of which are deficient.
Turin is celebrated for its pipestem bread, a peculiarity of the city.
It is laughable, at the table d’hôte, to see each person take a handful of sticks nearly a yard long, and amuse himself in cracking this crisping and delicious article.
The coming crop promises to be abundant. The wheat appears of a strong and hard growth. The heads of rye begin to turn already a golden color; and the hay harvest has commenced. The strawberry and cherry season is passing, as I noticed apricots are already in market.
XCVIII.
PARIS, _June 30, 1854_.
I find myself once again in the bustle and activity of this great city, after my return from Italy and Switzerland. My last communication was from Turin. The railroad to Suza, recently opened, brought me to the foot of the Alps, where the diligence, with its ten mules, was in readiness to ascend Mount Cenis, whose lofty crest was buried in snow. The rich and luxuriant growth of the valley is gradually lost as the dwarfish and stunted trees appear; the cold winds from the frozen surface and the absence of vegetation prove that the summit is nearly reached, and the traveller rejoices in the descent to the verdant and smiling valleys of Savoy. The macadamized, winding, and zigzag roads upon the borders of frightful precipices are, however, well provided with parapet walls, and tall poles or landmarks indicate the route when it is blocked with snow. The Government has also constructed, at intervals, one-story cottages, with roofs and bare walls, as a temporary refuge for benighted travellers. The passage at this season of the year is comparatively easy, and unlike what I had to contend with in crossing the St. Bernard, some years since, during the same month, upon mule-back, wading through snowbanks in the mountain gorges twenty feet in depth. The scenery is less grand and majestic than that of the Simplon, or great road of Napoleon, which I once passed in the month of October, upon jumpers made of hoop poles, and drawn by a single horse, for one person alone, under constant dread of avalanches and mountain torrents.
A seventy-four hours’ ride brought me to Chamberry, and thence three leagues further to Aix, celebrated for its baths from the time of the Romans, some of whose monuments are still found. It is situated in a beautiful valley, between a double chain of mountains, with most picturesque eminences, bordered by the Lake Bourget, some twelve miles in length. This pleasant little town, with a Savoyard population of three thousand, derives its principal support from the influx of strangers during the bathing season. Almost all its inhabitants--loungers, doctors, &c.--draw a portion of their revenue from the rent of their dwellings.
From its position between France, Italy, and Switzerland, it is a convenient and agreeable place for invalids. The waters are of iron and sulphur, and the supply is more abundant than any I had ever seen, and of a high temperature. The quantity discharged from the rock into the Royal Bathing Establishment, which is situated against the sidehill, is sufficient to turn an ordinary mill-wheel. The building, a handsome structure, is composed of four divisions, comprising thirty-six pieces. Here are found swimming and simple, as also vapor baths; shower, vertical, and oblique douches; with the volume and force of the shock required, or all the shades and varieties possible. There are also two dark underground rooms, whose high temperature of sulphur has given them the name of Division d’Enfer, or Hell Division; there is one for females as well as males. Two streams of hot sulphur water break upon the place, while clouds of steam make the atmosphere suffocating. While the invalid is in this he receives the shower-bath, which must produce an active effect. All the employees of the establishment are in uniform, and, when there are many visitors, they have full employment. The alum-water is most used for drinking, it being less heavy for the stomach than the sulphur-water, and its odor less disagreeable.
The Douchers employed in the baths are said to be very clever in their mode of friction, rubbing the limbs, and cracking the joints of rheumatic patients. I had no occasion for them, however. I have not yet forgotten the shampooing or vapor-bath at Constantinople, where one is almost scalded, and every bone of the body seems to be broken; then you are laid out in a winding sheet to be revived with coffee and sherbet, and finish off with a chibouck, or Turkish pipe. These waters and shady grounds being suggested as a relief for an eye-difficulty, I was induced to make a sojourn of some ten days at this pleasant spot. There are not the same attentions here as at Baden Baden and Wiesbaden. The Casino, however, is a handsome edifice, with spacious grounds and gardens, to which visitors subscribe, and have the privilege of a reading-room, a café, and restaurant; a military band plays morning and evening, and in the dancing and concert halls. The most corrupt places are the public gambling-rooms, where are seen groups of both sexes around the roulette tables, and the bankers with their little rakes in hand drawing in or paying out; the glittering gold dazzles the eye of the novices, and frequently induces them to stake their last Napoleon. The government has farmed out this establishment, with the promise that no officer of the crown, or citizen of the place shall be allowed to gamble--a very excellent provision; but the influx of strangers keeps up the traffic, and affords occupation for those who have a taste for play. I arrived in season for the festival of the baths. The programme was attractive, and calculated to draw a large assemblage from the neighboring villages. The firing of cannon, ringing of bells, and church service, the eating and drinking at the baths, made it a sort of Fourth of July affair; it was succeeded by donkey races, closing with an illumination under the tall elm and sycamore trees, with bands of music, and the national dances of the peasant girls and boys in their gay and picturesque costume. A display of fireworks added to the enjoyment of this simple and happy people, who seemed to disperse with reluctance. Rides upon the mountain, fishing, and excursions upon the lake, make up the pleasurable employments of visitors. A lady and gentleman, who came in company from Turin, joined me in an excursion down the lake, to visit a convent containing the royal tombs of the house of Savoy, which, with the chapel, are exquisitely wrought. The intermittent spring was also visited; at intervals of ten or fifteen minutes a rumbling noise is heard, and the rush of water (the volume being the size of a man’s body) soon fills a natural basin, when it gradually ceases, to be renewed after taking breath, as it were, from exhaustion. We had embarked upon this placid lake, when a heavy squall came up; the Lilliputian sea became agitated, and the little sail of the frail bark fluttered in the wind; the lady went into hysterics! The idea of being shipwrecked in that manner was ridiculous to me. We made for the mountain shore, and, ensconced under the rocks, escaped the driving rain, until it beat the little billows into subjection. The fright was sufficient to draw forth a promise from the husband and wife not to go sailing again this summer.
From Savoy I went into Switzerland; it was my third visit. I found at Geneva many changes since I was last there: a portion of the old rampart had been thrown down, and streets opened and built upon. Beautiful as it then was, reposing gently upon the margin of the lake whose name it bears, it is rendered more beautiful by the march of improvement; new hotels are being added to those already existing. The opening of railways in France has brought Geneva within twenty-eight hours of Paris, which time will be shortened when other projects are carried out. In visiting the principal of an institution at Geneva, I found eight American boys from different parts of the Union. The little fellows seemed quite delighted to meet with one who was from their native land, and familiar with most of the localities they came from, and, more than all, acquainted with some of their parents. They seemed happy and contented, and under good discipline.
The country never looked better; the prospects of the farmer are encouraging; the disease of the vine, which has made such havoc and caused such loss in southern Europe with those whose only resource is the production of wine, has not yet appeared, and strong hopes are entertained that the vine will escape it. In sections of country where for scores of miles the cultivation of the grape is as general as Indian corn or wheat in our country, the failure and consequent distress may very well be conceived.
I formerly described the chateau of Voltaire, and the few relics remaining of that philosopher. It is situated at Ferney, a few miles from Geneva, and is frequently visited by strangers. The present proprietor has beautified the grounds and remodelled the edifice. He was my travelling companion by the mail coach to Dijon, and amused and interested me much with many anecdotes of this singular man, as well as the remarks of visitors, strongly prejudiced for or against that peculiar philosopher.
I am not yet decided what course I shall take from Paris, but you will hear from me in due time.
XCIX.
AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, _July 25, 1854_.
The facilities for travel have so greatly increased since I first visited Europe in 1841, that I can scarcely realize that I am now writing from Aix, in Prussia, and that a portion of my last letter from Paris was descriptive of the baths of Aix en Savoie, in the north of Italy, where I was some six weeks since, thence passing through Switzerland to the French capital, making a considerable sojourn, with excursions to Versailles, Enghien, Fontainebleau, &c.; proceeding to Belgium, visiting Brussels, Liege, and the waters of the Spa. These points were all familiar to me, consequently only agreeable as souvenirs of the past. I found Brussels the same miniature Paris, but augmented in size, and containing some two hundred and forty thousand of population, partaking less of the Flemish character than formerly; the houses, shops, and streets very cleanly, with a great amount of industry. Dogs are there turned to account, and seen drawing carts as in Germany. The window shutters of the first floors of many of the houses are supplied with small projecting mirrors, for the convenience of the ladies, as in Holland, enabling them to see the foot passengers up and down the sidewalks, without showing themselves obtrusively. The Park opposite the royal residence, and near the former palace of the Prince of Orange, is a miniature Tuileries, and affords an agreeable promenade. The manufacturing town of Liege, upon the banks of the Meuse, in a fertile valley with most romantic scenery, is well worth a visit. It is noted for its manufacture of cloth and fire-arms. Owing to a free use of coal, the old city is black and dirty, not unlike the manufacturing districts of England. The most delightful valley is that of Spa, celebrated for its ferruginous waters, which are highly charged with iron. The country is fertile; the roads and public walks are bordered by tall and expansive shade trees. The winding alleys, little pavilions and look-outs from the heights, give great variety, and induce one to sojourn here, as the lodging houses and hotels are good and clean. The cuisine for reading, music, and play are attractive, and encourage many English to visit this picturesque spot, as the route is so practicable by way of sea to Ostend, and a railroad being within six miles, families are enabled to get here with little difficulty. The place is famous for painted fancy articles of every description, which are its only commerce; consequently it is a neat, genteel, and quiet watering place.
I had called upon our Minister at Brussels, and upon the Prussian Ambassador, and found them both absent, but had the pleasure of a rencontre with them at Spa. The only privileged bank or roulette in Belgium, is at the springs; the owners are very liberal, and contribute largely to the entertainment of guests. A handsome ball and illumination was given while I was there.
Aix has forty-eight thousand inhabitants, and numerous hot mineral springs in and about the city. Its name, Aquæ Grani, and its origin and prosperity, date back to the Roman era, when the Proconsul Granis and his legions stopped here in their passage from the Gauls to Germany. Its healing springs decided Charlemagne to make it his favorite sojourn with his numerous court. It was the place for crowning the German emperors, from Louis le Debonnaire, in 873, to Ferdinand I., in 1531. There are eight huge sulphur baths, to which are attached good and commodious quarters, giving invalids the advantage of bathing without exposure. At this season of the year the baths and hotels are full; the arrivals thus far reaching several thousands; the names of strangers arriving from all sources are published daily in a small sheet, with their places of residence. The city lies in a valley, and is defended by the now verdant hills, which protect it from high winds; it may be considered a desirable place for health during the inclement season. The principal places of resort for strangers and citizens, within the city, are the Kurhaus, containing library and reading rooms, the concert halls, and a ball-room with a garden, enlivened with an orchestra in the evening. There may be found here a large re-union of ladies and gentlemen, wherein most of the languages of Europe are heard. The fountain Elise, and the garden adjoining, are most frequented in the morning by those who imbibe; glass in hand you see them strolling under the pavilion, reconciling themselves to a disagreeable draught, with an air from the military band. The municipality has here the benefit derived from the gaming tables, which has enabled them to erect a fine new hospital. It is curious and instructive to notice the passion for play--the anxiety manifested upon the countenances of those not accustomed to this unfortunate vice. It is not confined to the male sex, but numbers of beautiful and fashionably-dressed ladies are seen surrounding the tables, staking or drawing in with tiny rakes the glittering pieces of gold. From a height called Louisberg, is presented a beautiful panorama of the city and suburbs. The avenues for a drive and walks through the woods are really charming; an excellent restaurant, erected by the city authorities, with occasional fêtes and bands of music, are among the attractions. As I was strolling alone through the forest, towards evening, I reached a culminating point on an eminence, where I had one of the most magnificent landscapes lying before me, and my mind was involuntarily carried towards home. I heard the shrill whistle and the tread of the iron horse in the distant valley beyond me. I could almost fancy myself gazing from a certain knoll, upon which I have often stood, a little south of Poughkeepsie, with the distant hum from the railroad trains. Although nature had done much, art had not yet accomplished what was required. I looked in vain, however, for the majestic Hudson, whitened with sails, and the towering summits of the Highlands, and awakening from my reverie, I came to the conclusion that there are but few spots which nature and the work of man, combined, have rendered more attractive and agreeable than the Spring side of our beautiful city.
The remains of Charlemagne, the most powerful of Emperors, lie in the old cathedral founded by him. It has now withstood the ravages of more than a thousand years, having been consecrated by Pope Leo in the year 804. It contains many relics preserved in gold and silver cases set with precious stones. The most valuable of these relics were presented by Queen Isabella of Spain, in the sixteenth century, and are only opened once in seven years, for a fortnight, which occasions the pilgrimage of thousands of believers at that time. They are taken from their envelopes of silk, covered with cloths of gold and silver, and beset with jewels. They consist of a white cotton dress, supposed to have been worn by the mother of our Saviour; the linen with which the infant Jesus was clad; the cloth upon which the head of John the Baptist was placed; and the sack with which Christ girded his loins.
A large portion of the population is employed in the manufacture of cloths, silks, pins, needles, and various branches of trade. The Americans are among the best customers for cloths. We had a small fair here the other day. The country people stared and gazed and made their little purchases; mountebanks, menageries, trained monkeys and dogs, flying horses, and albinoes were plentiful; there were moving wax figures of Christ and his disciples at the table; and a living representation of his condemnation and flagellation, with verbal descriptions in German. Lager beer, cheese, and pipes were in general demand.