Part 31

Large numbers of ladies are seen in church-dresses, with black mantas covering the head; the people are not of the pure Castilian type as in the south of Spain, many showing signs of descent from the Indian race. The countrymen all wear the ponchos, of various colors; the poncho is a blanket with a hole in the centre, through which the head is passed, and falls over the shoulders. The women of that class wear men’s panama-hats, with long hair plaited, and falling in two parts over the back. It is curious to notice the primitive manner in which some things are done here. The watering of the streets is done by a muleteer on the back of his animal, which carries two small twenty gallon kegs, one lashed on each side; these are filled at the top from the fountain. When he arrives at the dusty spot he pulls the cork from the bottom and starts his mule on a trot until the contents are scattered, and then returns for fresh supplies. One of the curiosities shown here is the first house built by Valdivia in 1560. It is a one-story adobe dwelling, with gratings above near the roof, in order to give ventilation and light, and to prevent attacks of Indians by openings below; it has had additions since. The wheat crops are excellent, and the exportation of flour and beans from Chili to California is very heavy. We visited the chacras or farms in the valleys, where thousands of bushels of grain were exposed in heaps in the open air, without fear of rain, having been trodden out by cattle, and numbers of men, employed at fifteen cents per day, and found, were throwing up the wheat to the breeze, which carries off the chaff and winnows it perfectly. Labor is improving, however, and in the cities fifty cents per day, and one dollar twenty-five cents for mechanics, are paid, in consequence of the great emigration to California. Two vessels lately sailed thither with two hundred emigrants each, and from personal experience I know that very many Chilians are found in that country. Vast sums have been realized here from Eldorado for products, and large mills are now being erected in the south for the supplies of that market, though too late, I think, as Oregon can produce immense quantities when once the population becomes more dense. The transportation of products from this capital to Valparaiso is performed by heavy ox-carts, many with covers resembling small round-top houses with windows; these covers are a protection during the winter months, which commence in June, also against the sun’s rays in summer, which has already passed; they travel now mostly by night, with a brilliant sky, and you see families of women and children occupying their tenement by the desert road-side, or cooking the supplies brought with them. They train their oxen not only to pull, but to hold back the load by the horns; they have four yoke for the immense zigzag cuttings, a mile and a half in the ascent; they then reverse the order of things, and the poor beasts are seen behind, with heads bowed to the ground, holding back, and almost tripped off their legs, and not unfrequently off go the whole troop down the precipice and are dashed in pieces.

A nephew of the president joined me in coming up from Valparaiso, his family having left earlier, and we overtook them and dined on the road. They were going to his chacra, in another direction. At the little village where we stopped at night, he introduced me to the Catholic curate of this poor place, who regaled us with cakes and matte from Paraguay; matte is the leaf of a tree much in use as a substitute for tea and coffee, and sucked through a tube; we passed the evening in conversation and smoking cigarettes, until the time came to be devoured by fleas in bed.

The English steamers touch at half-a-dozen towns on the way up to Peru, giving an opportunity of passing a day at each. I shall embark from Valparaiso in a few days for Callao and Lima.

LXXIX.

LIMA, _April, 1852_.

My last was from Santiago, the capital of Chili. I now address you from the renowned city of Lima, the seat of government of Peru, having in the interim touched at many of the small ports along the coast from Valparaiso to Callao, spending part of a day at each. Our first landing-place was Coquimbo, where are some important copper mines and smelting furnaces. The town, which was the seat of the insurgents in the last civil war, is about two leagues from the little port. Our steamer was the Santiago, recently from England, and she proved rather a failure, making only one hundred and ninety miles in thirty hours. Her machinery became heated, the wheels dipped too much; they attempted to account for it, however, by the bad quality of the coals. We arrived the following day at Oasco, which is surrounded by a small valley, very grateful to the eye, in comparison with the volcanic and iron-bound coast. The next point was Caldeva, the port of Copiapo, fifty-two miles distant, where the first South American railway was during the past year put in operation by American mechanics. We landed there one hundred and forty passengers of mixed classes, bound for the mines. They were a noisy set, grasping at table, and continually dancing their Samba Queca on deck; there were also some amusing groups of half-Indian and Spanish races, in costume of the country.

We received there considerable quantities of silver in bars, destined for England. It was a great relief to find our passengers reduced down to twenty-five, as the living had been poor, and a change was much needed. No good excuse could be offered for neglect, as the price of passage was enormous; but nothing to warrant American competition, as the line is now firmly established, with large capital, and determined to drive off all opponents. Our next point of debarkation was Coliza, the only port of Bolivia, a miserable town of huts, with only three wells of water, which is divided out among the inhabitants in proportion, from small kegs on the backs of donkeys. The mountains about it are barren, and not the slightest sign of vegetation is seen. Silver and copper induce people to live there. We visited the guano deposits, where about one hundred state prisoners were at work putting it up in sacks for exportation. The following day we arrived at Iquique, where one of our fellow passengers is established, though he is now from Valparaiso on his way to England. He was evidently the Alcalde of his miserable town, which relies mostly upon saltpetre for its support; not a blade of grass or drop of water is to be seen, reminding one of the shores of the Red Sea; still about one thousand persons exist there. A small mill grinds the wheat brought from Chili; seventeen Chinese were employed on it. Many are brought over to the coast and sold for a limited period for their passage money. The escape steam from the machine distils the salt water, which is sold at six reals, or seventy-five cents per keg of eighteen gallons. Fruit and vegetables are brought from Arica, eighty miles further down the coast. The village looks like an Egyptian one, being composed of mud huts thatched with leaves. The mules and donkeys are the most miserable specimens, dying with thirst, and wading in the salt water, laving their mouths and picking up sea-weed. These animals come down laden with saltpetre, one day’s journey, and the mules return immediately; the donkeys generally rest a day or two, but frequently their drivers are unwilling to pay a real, or twelve and a half cents, for a bucket of water, so the poor brutes are compelled to return without a drink. Our friend’s house and stores were large frame buildings near the beach, two stories high, with balconies, and comfortably furnished and supplied.

I was particularly struck with his despidida, or farewell departure, after a residence of nineteen years. A handsome collation of fruits and wine of various kinds was served to his friends, and among the number appeared a lady of the country with her child. She was dressed in velvet, with a rich China shawl, diamond necklace and ear-rings, and fingers loaded with precious stones. While the champagne corks were flying I had a glance from the balcony over the desert with its heavy sands and rocky mountains in the distance, and could scarcely realize my position; but the figure of Commerce presented herself among the shipping and explained the circumstance. The town of Arica appeared like an oasis in the desert, the streets being paved and well laid out; the houses were built with flat roofs, and there were two churches, badly shaken by earthquakes. Our Consul had very comfortable quarters, with a fine garden of fruit and flowers. The country in the interior in many places is productive, but the chief fertility consists of silver mines. Islay, the next town, is difficult to access, being high and rocky; it has some decent houses, and is the port of Arequipa. Water is brought in by aqueducts, and it was a refreshing sight to see the donkeys drinking at will. I called with a friend upon an old Spaniard, whose two daughters gratified us with music upon the piano, even in this almost uninhabited country, and seemed contented with their home and climate. The following day we found ourselves at Pisco, celebrated for its wine and liquors. We mounted horses and rode in the country, visited some of the vineyards, and returned to town about two miles from the beach; it happened to be Palm Sunday, and we visited the cathedral built by the old Spaniards, saw the procession and entrance into Jerusalem, by knocking at the side-door, and heard some extraordinary music. Palm branches were distributed, and the motley group of half-castes, Indians, Negroes, and Spaniards dispersed. We had the day previous picked up a launch with six men, who had been out twenty-three days from Valparaiso, and without water and provisions for two days. We supplied them with biscuit, beans, candles, wood, and water; not forgetting cigars, which were among the first articles which they demanded.

Our final landing-place was the Chinchas Guano Islands, the present great source of wealth of the Peruvian government; a supply still exists for perhaps a century, sufficient to pay the interest on the national debt of some twenty millions of dollars, the bonds of which, from being almost valueless, have advanced to par in England. I was surprised to find ten ships and brigs waiting for loads. One can scarcely realize that the immense deposits or hills have been produced by birds, but the flocks which are seen, and which are prohibited from being destroyed, and the known voracity of the species, reconcile one’s doubts, particularly in a climate where it never rains.

The use of the guano has long been known in the interior of the country; it is transported on the backs of animals to the valleys, irrigated by the waters from the melting snows of the Andes. The people, I learn, are substituting negroes for the Chinese, as the latter, being disappointed in this kind of servitude, have frequently destroyed themselves by hanging, many in groups, joining hands and leaping over the precipice, in the belief of restoration to their happy homes. I arrived here at the commencement of the Passion Week, and found that all Lima had had the peste, or plague, a species of yellow fever; it had nearly exhausted itself for want of victims, but strangers of course were expected to take it. The Italian opera company, of seventeen persons, just arrived from the north, were all taken, save three, and out of our number of twenty-five at the hotel at table only five were left. I have been exposed, with my fellow-passengers, but in consequence of having had the original Yellow Jack, have thus far escaped. The churches of Peru are the finest in South America; there are about fifty-two in the city, with a population of ninety thousand persons. They date their riches and luxury in the time of the Spaniards. Some of the temples were decorated with a great variety of flowers, in vases furnished for the occasion, by private families, forming avenues of tropical vegetation through these deep edifices, while the light of a thousand candles illuminated the high altar, and disclosed the faces of hundreds of the beautiful Limanians of the Andalusian race, who were kneeling in their rays, in black shawls or mantillas; after a short prayer they rose and visited other churches. I visited twelve of the most important in the evening, and found, as in Havana, that at these festivals, some new attractions are held out for visitors, who continue the rounds until overcome with fatigue. In one church the last supper was represented by Christ and his twelve apostles, sitting at a well-covered table of fruits, flowers, and wine, the approach to which was difficult, on account of the rush of negroes and half-castes. In another church the figures of the soldiery and the crowning with thorns were represented; a grotesque zapatero, or shoemaker, in a crouching position, looking up with a huge pair of spectacles, seemed to excite the mirth of the common people. The balcony of my apartment faces the Plaza, or Cathedral Square; at the right is pointed out the spot where Pizarro lost his life, fighting nobly; in the crypt of the cathedral is shown what are called his remains.

On Noche Buena, the night after the Passion Week, the whole square was roasting and stewing. Negroes were there in great numbers, with fire and cooking utensils; hot fritters boiled in oil, sausages, garlic salads, and _aguardiente_; and there were booths, or stands, on three sides, with every variety of trinkets for sale, and an immense concert of Indians, negroes, and other races; while in front, respectable ice-cream and confectionery stands accommodated the gentlemen and ladies with seats, and cooling drinks, made from fruits and ice, brought from the mountains, seven leagues distant, on the backs of mules. The river Rimac flows through the city, and running water passes through many of the streets. The mountains around are arid and forbidding, without the least verdure; but by irrigation the gardens of the valleys are made productive. At a charge of four reals, or fifty cents, the railway, eight miles in length, brings passengers from the port of Callao. It is a new construction, and has an elevation of five hundred feet. The chief place of resort for the Limanians, are the ocean baths of Churillas, whither I propose going.

LXXX.

STEAMER QUITO, _April 29, 1852_.

The old Spanish custom of bull fights is still kept up with all its vigor in Lima, and the long looked-for combat came off after the church ceremonies of Passion Week had ended. Having, as a traveller, witnessed this barbarous sport in Spain, where it is countenanced by the nobility and the dignitaries of the government, I was induced to attend it here chiefly to observe the ladies in their saya mantas--a garment which entirely prevents recognition, as it leaves one eye only exposed. The sayas are falling into disuse, and not seen so often as formerly in the public streets, except on festive occasions. Any lady may be addressed, but under no circumstances can the veil be removed by force, without calling down the vengeance of bystanders. An immense building of circular form stands near the Alameda; it is a public promenade, with palcos or boxes for parties and families, and seats in the form of an amphitheatre, capable of containing some seven thousand persons. The authorities of the city occupy a prominent place, as well as the military officers and judges. A programme is sold, containing the names of the twelve bulls to be killed, and describing the characteristics of the prominent matadores, two of whom, father and son, have recently arrived from Spain.

The trumpet sounds; mounted horsemen come forth and clear the ring; others appear with lances in hand; and then appear six flag-men with red and yellow scarfs, round jackets, and short clothes of silk and velvet, embroidered with gold and silver lace, shining knee-buckles, and silk stockings. The sliding gate is opened, and in rushes the tortured bull, with his eyes glaring, and makes for the horse, but is diverted by the blazing colors of the scarfs. Sometimes a mantle is thrown over the shoulders; the animal pursues it, when the wearer dashes it aside and dodges the infuriated beast, escaping behind a side partition fence, while he takes after another, and barbed arrows with feather or paper plumes are planted in his neck, causing him to roar and paw the dust, and make another attempt at his adversary, in which he sometimes upsets horse and rider, goring the former, to the delight of the multitude, whose cries and waving handkerchiefs attest their pleasure. After the ineffectual efforts and hair-breadth escapes of the actors, the matador, while attracting the bull with his red flag, with one thrust of his long sword gives him a mortal stab, which passes through the neck and heart, and appears between the fore-legs. The enthusiasm is then at its height. The trumpet sounds, the gates are thrown open, two pairs of heavy mules appear, bedecked with feathers, and mounted by two riders. The head of the defunct is raised upon a pair of small wheels, and attached by the horns to the traces; the band strikes up, the dead carcase is removed under the full gallop; the gates are closed, and a new victim soon appears. I felt it a relief to escape and stroll along the beautiful Alameda, upon the river bank. The ride to the baths of Churilla, a few leagues from Lima, is over a heavy, sandy road, dusty, dreary, and of no interest.

The Indian village situated on the bay is much resorted to during the summer months. The bath-houses are of cane or reed, and form a sort of labyrinth, with a few flat stones in each for seats; they are occupied by both sexes, but are rather exposed. Gambling seems to be the order of the day, or rather night, as all classes, male and female, enter into the sport, it being the ruling passion of the Peruvians as well as the Chilians. Among the passengers in the diligence or public conveyance was a grey-headed, thin-visaged, lank old man, whose whole dress, including his poncho, would not have sold for _twenty dollars_; yet this confirmed old gambler had amassed two hundred thousand dollars in play, and notwithstanding that he was lame with one foot in the grave, his passion, which was the object of his visit, must still be gratified. Many persons have private residences for the enjoyment of the sea breeze and bathing, but they are of a primitive character. Ludicrous dances in grotesque costumes are performed by the negroes, which help to pass their evenings.

Lima is considered the gayest city on the South Pacific coast, and enjoys a mild, equal climate, being uninfluenced by the near approach of the mountains, and of a much more agreeable temperature than the same latitude on the opposite side in Brazil. The houses, which are two stories, have balconies of latticed work, which gives the ladies an opportunity of seeing all passers in the streets. The ladies are less celebrated for constancy than for sprightliness, grace, and beauty, and are a far superior race to the men, who are much inferior to the Chilians. The use, or rather abuse of the saya manta was formerly a means of intrigue even in the presence of husbands and brothers, as exchanges of robes were easily effected. The adoption of European costume is fast reducing the use of this garment.

To a stranger the alarm created by a shock of an earthquake upon the natives appear ridiculous, as they rush out of their houses into the open square, and if the shock is in the night, of course in undress; all who experience these shocks, however, are soon overcome by the same kind of terror. The earthquake of the last century swept Callao and its entire population into the sea. We had a considerable shock a few days since, while I was in a heavy stone and brick building, used in part for a museum, and where some interesting specimens of antiquity of the times of the Incas are found, as also mummies from the Indian mounds, and the portraits of the former viceroys of Peru. I was examining these objects attentively, when I found myself suddenly alone, with the balance of the party making for the inner court or square, crying out “_un temblor!_” The dust was flying about me, and I followed hurriedly; I observed that the sky was remarkably bright, that there was a perfect stillness of the elements, and that the air was filled with birds in confusion; however, it soon passed, and without damage.

The steamer from which I write is new; she is just out from England, this being her first trip. We are fortunate in having fresh supplies and attentive servants, with few passengers, and every comfort. We have just met the Santiago, and exchanged civilities, and received English papers from Panama. I learn from her captain, who has just recovered from the pest, that all my fellow passengers from Valparaiso, who touched at Callao and Lima, with one exception, were attacked, and among the number a family of seven persons. I find I have great reason to be thankful in having escaped.

We shall make the distance of eighteen hundred miles in seven and a half days, passing nearly one day at Paita, which has a fine harbor, and was formerly resorted to by whalers for supplies; they now go to Tumbes, seven leagues above, where water is to be had, with which water Paita is supplied, not a blade of grass or a drop of the liquid element being produced at the latter place, the few plants there in boxes being looked upon with much pleasure. It is far superior to many other small towns along the coast. There are some comfortable houses built of cane, and covered with flags, which earthquakes cannot shake down easily, and several long and narrow streets which afford shade. An extraordinary event had just occurred, it having rained for a part of a day, for the first time in seven years. The natives are mostly Indians; a quiet, docile, and well-looking people. The residents seem satisfied with their position and climate; they say that they are deprived of vegetation and water, but that they can get supplies from along the coast; that they are not infested with venomous reptiles and noxious fleas, the accompaniment of rank verdure, and that the people die of old age, citing instances of ninety and one hundred years longevity. I had made a passage with the son of the English Consul, whose father had been there for nineteen years, and enjoys the climate. I breakfasted and lunched with him, with some other guests from the ship, and certainly there was no want of the good things of life, even in such a desert place. The reputed wife of General Bolivar resides here; she was with him in many of his campaigns, while Liberator of South America. A friend took me to her house, and I found a stout, fat, but well featured elderly lady, in her hammock, which I learn she rarely leaves, unless for her bed. She had her two poodle dogs nestling beside her; she received us kindly, and conversed intelligently and in a diplomatic manner upon matters of politics. She is a great friend of General Flores, whose expedition is now approaching Guayaquil with fourteen hundred men, and with the prospect of overthrowing President Urbini, of Ecuador, who, she says, was educated by General Flores while former President, to whom he proved an ungrateful wretch. I found there the daughter of Flores with her husband and aide de-camp, awaiting news from the seat of war. This lady, who once lived in Lima in almost regal style, now subsists upon the charities of her numerous friends. As I had once visited the tomb of Bolivar in Caraccas, and received the hospitalities of a cousin bearing his name, in his rancho, near Porto Cabello, the old lady seemed interested in me, and insisted on my joining her in smoking a choice Havana, an occupation which she appeared to enjoy.