Part 25

The same afternoon we procured horses, of which many are to be found, as the Kanakas are very fond of the quadruped, and proceeded to the north side of the island, through the valley, whose cultivation is mostly of taro, the island-bread. Some three miles from town we left the main road to visit the cascade, a small mountain torrent rushing down the rocks, which is a favorite place for sham battles and diving; and there we found several of the amphibious beings contending for the small pieces of coin which were thrown them in the water. Mounting our horses, we pursued our way through the valley, passing the low mud and bamboo huts, and dense thickets of small trees and bushes, with jagged and crooked branches, almost impenetrable outside of this narrow defile, through which the wind rushed strongly, while the dense clouds were lowering upon the summits of the volcanic ridges above, threatening to drench us, though we escaped dry. We met with considerable numbers of cattle, horses, sheep, and goats, which shows the advancement of the island.

Some seven miles towards the north the ascent is gradual, and brought us to the Pali, a precipice which certainly presents one of the most beautiful views the eye can behold, of the plain below, with its tropical trees and forests, with the ocean in the distance.

The descent is by an excavated road running round the peak, whose height is immense; it reminded me, in some particulars, of the excavation in the mountains of Caracas, under the government of Paez. Tradition says that the opposite and most lengthy peak, which appears to be only a foothold for a man, was occupied by one of the former chiefs, or kings, when pursued by his enemies, whom he hurled headlong as they approached. The following day I paid a visit to one of the young princes, who had been in the States, as also in Europe, the past year, in company with Dr. Judd, and found him in a bamboo, grass-covered house, within the inclosure of the palace grounds, seated upon a sofa; the ground floor was covered with matting, upon which squatted the lightly clad Kanaka women of the household. He conversed well in English, and expressed himself pleased with his voyages. The women are expert riders, and on Saturday of each week the whole town, male and female, who can procure horses, make it a gala-day. The former, who bestride the saddle, wear a bright yellow scarf, extending from the skirt of the dress behind to cover the stirrups in front, and round straw hats with wreaths of flowers, presenting, as they dash furiously along, a picturesque appearance.

I congratulate myself in having again escaped the loss of my luggage, as my fellow passenger from San Francisco has lost a part of his effects, while the remainder was wet through in coming ashore. The reef extends out about half a mile, and the heavy breakers capsized the boat’s crew, who narrowly escaped a worse fate. I was fortunately ashore with the captain.

LX.

HONOLULU, _June 26, 1851_.

The Yankee character for enterprise is admitted to be a peculiar one, whether productive of good or evil. On board of our vessel from Lahaina we received two Americans who had established a circus company in this place with great success, and had gone to the neighboring island to try their fortunes, but were not permitted to play. They had come here to present their petitions, and had numerous advocates, although it was contended by their opponents that the Kanakas were so fond of this amusement that they would exhaust their resources to gratify it. It is contended by some that the laws and regulations enforced by the missionary influence are too rigid, and that while the latter are actuated by good motives, their remedies have proved worse than the disease; that while the most stringent laws have been enacted against immoralities, they are entirely ineffective of good, as it is asserted that the most unblushing looseness of manners prevails in the islands. Another charge is against the teaching in the language of the country, and discouraging the use of other languages; and that civilization cannot advance when hampered by a tongue which, in the words of Onmittee Wyldie, abounds in names for every vice, but is without a name for any virtue, and which is too loose and ambiguous for official correspondence, permanent records, or civil contracts. They say that the discouragement of manly exercises among the natives, such as throwing the spear, and wrestling, in which they were so expert, has gained them nothing but increase of idleness, inactivity, and diminished cheerfulness, which are incentives to criminality. The missionaries, on the other hand, refute the charges alleged against them, saying, that they are not answerable for the acts of the Hawaiian government; that church and state have never been united in the islands; that the penalties imposed upon the people for their abuses in manners exert a powerful restraint; and that the natives are the only true judges, as they understand fully the nature, objects, and operation of the laws. They state that they have taught English as far as possible, but cannot teach an entire people a new language; that they had other work to do, leaving the translation of the Bible until such times as the people could understand it. They have been without doubt instrumental of vast good, having civilized and partly christianized these barbarians. They have had many difficulties to contend with, and those who are now enjoying the benefits of the present state of society, are the first to oppose them. They have without doubt committed some errors in judgment, which is usually the case with reformers who wish to make all classes conform to their standard of right and wrong; but I have generally found them useful, and obliging to the traveller and stranger, and desirous of imparting information; standing as pioneers at the outposts of civilization, and as useful in extending the area of knowledge and Christianity, as the hardy squatter of the frontier, in his advancing the agricultural pursuits of our western wilds.

When we reflect that in the year 1820 the first mission was established among a nation of low and brutal savages, who have been reclaimed from barbarism and instructed in Christianity, it must be admitted that much has been done, although it is contended by many that the population has been vastly reduced by contamination with the whites, and rendered less happy.

The churches, of which there are several, are attended by natives to hear the word in the native tongue, and large numbers are communicants, and follow up the externals, and many are strictly pious, but very many have to be dealt with, not being able to forget their former practices, which causes much labor for their teachers. They have here a House of Nobles, so called, whose acts are published with as much consequence as if they proceeded from the Parliament of England. I have been much amused in the island of Hayti with the supreme authority and dignity of the black emperor, Soulouque; and cannot help but look at some things here as a farce, but the advantages are that there is American talent here to dictate and pull the wires. I have had the opportunity of visiting and coasting through six of the eight inhabited islands of the Sandwich group, which extends between 18° 50´ and 22° 20´ N. Lat., and 154° 53´ and 160° 15´ West Long., and which composes eight thousand square miles with a native population of some eighty thousand--supposed. I am thus particular in describing their locality, as I had previously known so little of these remote specks on the vast Pacific, which were so far removed from us by reference to the chart, that I had never intended to visit them. As you may be interested in the language, I give you the following notice with the translation; it may be of service to those who wish to commence the rudiments at home.

_Fonu_--(_See Selom._)

OLELO HOOLAHA.--Ina. e. loaa ana kekahi. kanaka, mahope o ka hooaba ana o keia palapala, e lawe ana, i ka PAAKIA.

_Olelo Hoolaha._--Ina e loaa ana kekahi Kanaka, mahope o ka hooaha ana i ka Paakai o Puuloa, a me ka ja, paha o na loko, a me ka ja o ku Pa Kuli, a o na Kanaka e loaa ana e laroe ana i ka Paakia i huna ia ma Puuloa, ua kuai ia ku paha a kehahi Kanaka malaili me ka lohe, ole a me ka ae ole o ka mea nono ka inoa malole, e hopo ia no lakou a hoopii ia lakou, a e hookokole ia lakou ma ka ano aihu.

Honolulu.

C. W. V.

TRANSLATION.

_Notice._--All persons, after this notice, found taking salt from Puloa, or fish from the pond Paa Kuli, or others, or any person found receiving salt made at Puloa from anyone, except with the permission of the undersigned, will be arrested, and an action of law brought against them for stealing.

Honolulu, June 6, 1850.

C. W. V.

LXI.

LADRONE ISLANDS, _July 21, 1851_.

The cry of “Land Ho” to the traveller on a sea voyage is always refreshing, but particularly so after having been some weeks out of sight of terra firma. Our ship is deserving of the name of clipper when she has good breezes, and when full rigged is perfectly white with canvass, carrying from thirty-five to forty sails.

We have been running with the trades almost in a direct route from the Sandwich Islands, some three thousand five hundred miles, and have never furled a sail since our departure until yesterday, when appearances indicated one of the much dreaded typhoons, which are so much feared at this season, and which appear in the region of the islands, and extend through the China Sea. The strongest and swiftest ships are unable to resist them; they have their spars carried away, and even their masts taken out, and are not unfrequently lost, as was the case with the clipper-ship Rainbow. The heavens at mid-day were only comparable to the blackness of night, and the whole horizon seemed to be circumscribed; it appeared as if our bowsprit would soon enter into the tar-colored circle ahead of us. The orders of officers were given and responded to by an active crew of sixteen sailors. The orders, “Brail the spanker,” “Haul up the mainsail,” “Reef the foresail,” and so on, were rapidly given until she could be got in safe trim. It proved to be more a deluge of rain than a gale of wind, with terrific peals of thunder, as if all the artillery of heaven was in commotion; the lightning played beautifully and awfully about us.

It was one of those magnificent sights which must be witnessed to be appreciated. If we had not shortened sail we should have run out of it, but prudence dictated the greatest caution, particularly in this latitude. The sailors, as the rain abated, amused themselves like a parcel of ducks, playing and bathing in the water upon deck, before the scuppers could carry off the copious supply.

Our ship is spacious, with fine promenade, quarter and main decks unencumbered. Our cabin is large and handsomely finished, and furnished with accommodations for thirty-two passengers, but there being only two of us we are not elbowed, and find our supplies bountiful.

My companion from San Francisco, is bound to Canton only. I had once made a passage with him from Charleston to New York, and we subsequently met in Havana, and now chance throws us again together under pleasant circumstances. We occupy our time like most others on shipboard, to relieve monotony, by the usual labor of eating, drinking, and considerable sleeping; of course, also in writing and reading, the latter being the great resource, and my neighbor, being fond of music, whiles away many a weary hour upon his guitar and accordeon.

Our Anniversary of the glorious Fourth, we ushered in by discharging our six-shooters, and ringing the steward’s bell, and afterwards firing at a mark, to commemorate the day. Dined patriotically, with sentiments to friends and home, heard an occasional salute from Jack, of the forecastle, carrying the mind back to the scenes of former days. Thus passed the day, and at ten at night, while pacing the quarter-deck by moonlight, under a press of canvas, with a nine-knot breeze, the trade-wind dead aft and sailing on even keel, the ocean calm, and now entitled to its Pacific name, I could not help reflecting upon the events of home, and found, at that moment, judging from our position of latitude and longitude, you were then returning from a Church Oration, or listening to the mid-day salute. Sunday the 6th, was observed as the Sabbath on shipboard, but had been lost in the calculation of nautical time, as we had passed the one hundred and eightieth degree of west longitude, or the world’s centre, being the antipodes of Greenwich. We then counted it as ship’s time, Monday 7th, and commenced in east longitude. On the ninth day out from Honolulu, we lost sight of the bark Isabella Hine, with which vessel I went to the islands from St. Francisco; we left in company, and kept in view during all this time, which was a little remarkable, showing the equality of sailing of these two clippers--the average runs being from one hundred and sixty to two hundred miles per day, with moderate breezes. The weather has been very hot during the entire passage, the thermometer now standing eighty-six degrees, with an occasional refreshing shower, favorable for fresh supplies, as the old stock of water is repugnant to smell.

As we have had no weather to admit of fishing, such calms not being desirable, our curiosity has not been excited with the sights of whales, sharks, sea lions, or porpoises, of which we had an abundance while going down to the islands; we conclude therefore that we have got away from their cruising grounds. There is nothing to call one’s attention, except the water-spouts, which we are disposed to give a wide berth. The moonlight nights are delightful, and the most pleasant part of the twenty-four hours; they incline one to pace the deck, and give him plenty of time to reflect upon the many changes and scenes in life.

Having no opportunity to forward this letter, I shall not close it till our arrival at Hong Kong or Macao.

* * * * *

MACAO, _Aug. 4, 1851_.

Having an opportunity of sending the annexed letter immediately on entering port, I can now announce our arrival, although in the latter part of our voyage we were becalmed and had to contend with the head-winds, after the regular trades had left us, on passing the Bashee Islands in the China sea, where we had reason to expect the south-west trades, or monsoons, but on the contrary had to contend with heavy tide ripples or counter currents, running at the rate of two and a half miles per hour. I assure you it was disheartening to make only twenty miles per day, within three hundred miles of our haven, while liable to meet a stray pirate, or a frightful typhoon, not to mention the sun’s rays, which were overpowering; but our for fortunes changed after a few days’ reverse, a strong south-wester having brought us in sight of the Celestials with their long tails, who are surrounding us in their sharp, lightly constructed boats, with sails of matting, and are proffering their services for pilotage, supplies of fish, fruits, &c. I have not time to add further, but shall write you from Canton, seventy-five miles up the river.

LXII.

CANTON, CHINA, _Aug. 20, 1851_.

We arrived at Whampoa, where the foreign shipping lies, some fourteen miles below this city, and where we cast anchor. We were immediately surrounded by a multitude of boatmen, and amongst the rest a host of washerwomen, neatly dressed, with flowing pantaloons and a loose vest which falls over the hips, and is made of blue or black cotton or silk. They crowd around with commendations in their hands, and solicit the preference at the extremely low rate of one dollar and a half per hundred. You can judge of my surprise, who had paid five dollars for the single dozen in California, which of itself was the strongest evidence of the great disparity of population. The hair of the married women is put up in an artistic manner, and the young girls wear the long queue braided, but their heads are not shaved like those of the men. The following day I came up to this city through a perfect fleet of junks, and other boats, with their teeming population, the study of whose habits and modes of life would occupy much time. It is computed that there are eighty thousand boats, with a floating population of four hundred thousand souls, upon the waters of the Canton River.

I was particularly struck with the appearance of the large junks with their painted eyes at the bow, as the Chinese say, “_Suppose no have eyes, no can see_.” The Mandarin War Boats carry fifty oarsmen, and their broad-brimmed conical bamboo hats answer as a shield from the sun and spears. The peculiar open stern which incloses the rudder and place for ingress and egress, and the sudden manner in which they turn the boats, surprised me; the neatness displayed on board the small ferry and passenger boats, where families are born, live, and die upon their native element, is without example. They are covered by permanent and also sliding roofs of bamboo matting, and propelled mostly by women with a scull-oar on a pivot at the stern. Some are nicely fitted up and gilded, for parties of pleasure, and are really fine.

The foreign population of Canton is made up of about fifty persons of different nations, mostly occupying a fine range of buildings, called Factories, fronting a beautiful garden of about two acres square, with high walls at the ends, and extending to the river; it is filled with every variety of tropical trees, plants, and flowers, and affords a delightful lounge upon Chinese settees, or a fine promenade upon its cemented walks. In the centre is a neat Episcopal Chapel, and the flags of three nations, ours being one of the number, are flying from elevated flag-staffs. Adjoining the grounds is an extended boat-house which contains the finest collection of race-boats of the most delicate construction in the world, for the regattas of the English and American residents, and for daily exercise, as it is not safe to penetrate into the country; there are no drives, and in fact horses are rarely seen or used, the dense population and low price of labor with the use of the buffalo, supplying their places. The latter animal is nearly amphibious, and gets a portion of his supplies in low grounds unfit for cultivation; in fact the Chinese, being the most laborious, economical, and indefatigable people perhaps in the world, cultivate every inch of ground, as far as I can perceive in my excursions up and down the river, and along the paddy or rice fields. I arrived opportunely for the Festival of the Dead, but it reminded me more of the Fourth of July at home, from the constant discharge of crackers and fireworks. The flower boats, which are eighty to one hundred feet in length, with cabins beautifully decorated, and literally overhung and festooned with large, beautiful, vari-colored lanterns at night in long processions, with the beating of gongs, and the playing of instruments, in sound not unlike the Scotch bagpipe, produced a most singular effect. The offerings, which are made to the deceased friends and burned in the streets, are made to represent clothes, money, and other articles; and the consumption of prepared folded paper of different colors, some of gold and silver gilt, which are placed together by the masses and then fired, is not a slight tax upon the people. An exhibition of this kind took place at the angle of our house, and our coolies and servants were among the group, after which copper coins, called cash, one thousand two hundred to the dollar, were thrown out to the beggars who were scrambling among the embers. I am indebted to the hospitalities of Wm. Buckler, Esq., to whom I had letters, there being no hotel deserving of the name, and have received many invitations and civilities at the hands of other parties. The servants here are excellent, and anticipate your every want.

I must describe mine to you. His face, as also the skin around his eyes and ears, and his head to the crown, is well shaved; his long, black hair falls plaited nearly to his ankles; his white frock or long vest with sleeves, flows over his flowing pants of white grass linen; he has white leggings attached to his turned up and embroidered shoes, and tied at the knee, and they are perfect patterns of cleanliness, although droll-looking objects.

The usual hour for tiffin, or lunch, is three in the afternoon, and dinner is at seven in the evening. In accepting invitations out, custom demands and admits in this hot climate, a full dress of white, the round jacket included, and your servant to accompany you.

Canton contains probably a million of inhabitants. Ingress cannot be obtained within the walls. I effected an entrance for a short distance, but was soon expelled. The town outside is probably more interesting than within, as the streets run parallel with the walls, and the houses are built close up against them. They are ordinarily one or two stories high, the latter class forming a hollow square inside, with galleries surrounded by merchandise, and arranged for the display of goods. The signboards run up and down, are gaudily painted in various colors in Chinese characters, with tasteful lanterns at the entrance, and in the narrow streets have a gay appearance.

The merchants, mechanics, and artisans, in their many occupations, can hardly be described on paper. The latter are well clad in the costume of the country, and mostly in black, and carry fans or umbrellas. The laborers at this season have the upper part of the body exposed; they carry their burdens suspended from the extreme end of a pliable round shoulderpole, and cry out for space as they thread the dense throng in the narrow passages. At certain hours at night, the gates of the different quarters are closed, and the district is liable for any robbery committed within it. If the culprit is found, his head is taken off at the execution ground, in the open space within the heart of the town outside the walls. Their punishments are most severe, some victims being chopped in pieces, and some flayed alive. The ground was red with gore as I passed through that quarter, from the recent execution of fifteen men for treason; a revolt has lately taken place in one of the provinces, and the rebels succeeded in destroying five hundred of the celestial troops, with the exception of ten who escaped the ambuscade.

The object is to change the present dynasty. Since the late opium war and treaty with the English, with the privileges of trading, many advantages have been gained, and gradually the country will be penetrated, and we shall know more of this peculiar and interesting people, who boast of the highest civilization, and consider all outsiders as barbarians. The maxims of Confucius, who is held in great veneration, teach affection, and obedience towards parents, respect for elder brothers, and esteem on their part for younger brothers. The people are Boodhists in religion, and the doors and entrances of all the shops have figures and offerings suspended, and incense tapers burning night and morning, to keep off the evil spirits.