Chapter 19

DESSERT DISHES.

The previous chapter was devoted to cheap and good sweet dishes of the kind usually called dessert in this country; the dessert proper, however, consists of fruit, creams, ices, small and delicate cakes, fancy crackers, and confectionery. We give here directions for making some of these enjoyable delicacies at a very moderate rate.

It must always be borne in mind that the prices quoted are those which prevail when the articles specified are in season, and consequently abundant and cheap. As apples are very plentiful, and generally cheap, we shall begin with dishes made from them.

=Apple Black Caps.=--Pare a quart of nice apples, core them without breaking, set them side by side in a baking dish that will just hold them, fill the centres with sugar, place two cloves in the top of each one, grate over them the yellow rind of a lemon or orange, and put them into a moderate oven only until they are tender; do not let them break apart. As soon as they are tender take them from the oven, heat a fire shovel red hot and hold it over them, near enough to blacken their tops. Serve either hot or cold.

A porcelain-lined baking dish, or a _gratin_ pan, is the best dish for cooking the black-caps in, because either can be set upon a clean plate and sent to the table; if the apples have to be removed from the dish in which they were baked they may be broken, and then the appearance of the dish will be spoiled.

The flavor of the dish may be changed by varying the spice, and by occasionally using a little wine or brandy with the sugar. The cost of a dish large enough for half a dozen persons will be covered by ten cents, unless it is made when apples are scarce and dear.

=Apple Snow.=--Make this dish when eggs are cheap. Pare and core a quart of apples, (cost five cents,) stew them to a pulp with just water enough to moisten them, rub them through a seive, and sweeten them to taste. Beat the whites of six eggs, (cost six cents,) with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, to a stiff froth; beat the apple-pulp to a froth; mix the egg and apple together very lightly, turning the bowl of the spoon over and over instead of stirring it around; then beat them with an egg whisk until they look like snow. Pile the snow high in the centre of a dish, putting it in by the tablespoonful, and taking care not to break it down; in the top of the heap of snow put a fresh flower or a green sprig; and if you have any currant jelly, lay a few bits around the base. The effect of the dish is very pretty, and it can be made for about fifteen cents.

=Apple Cakes.=--Pare, core, and slice a quart of apples, (price five cents,) stew them with half their weight in sugar, (about one pound, cost about twelve cents,) the grated rind and juice of a lemon, (cost two cents,) one ounce of batter, (cost two cents,) and a very little grated nutmeg. When they are tender beat them with an egg whisk until they are light, drop them by the dessert-spoonful on buttered paper laid on a baking sheet, and bake them in a cool oven until they are firm, which will be in about fifteen minutes. When they are cool put them in a tin box until wanted for use. The cost will be about twenty cents.

=Cherry Cheese.=--Put into a stone jar a pound of sound, ripe cherries, with the stones removed, (cost about ten cents;) cover the jar closely, set it in a saucepan half full of boiling water, and simmer it gently until the cherries are tender; then take up the fruit, weigh it, put it into a preserving kettle with half a pound of finely sifted sugar, (cost about eight cents), to every pound of fruit; add a dozen cherry kernels with the skins removed by scalding, and rubbing in a clean cloth, put the kettle over a slow fire, and boil, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is quite dry and clear. Meantime rinse out some shallow jars with brandy, and when the fruit is done put it into them, pressing it down tightly; pour a very little brandy over the top, lay a little paper on each, then fit on the covers of the jars closely, and keep in a dry, cool place. The above quantity will cost about twenty-five cents.

=Candied Cherries.=--Choose a pound of perfectly sound, ripe cherries, (cost ten cents,) with the stalks and an occasional leaf attached, wipe them with a clean, dry, soft cloth; dip the leaves and stems, but not the fruit, into boiling vinegar, and set them with the cherries upward, in a card-board perforated with holes to admit the stems, until the vinegar dries. Meantime boil a pound of loaf sugar, (cost about fifteen cents), with a teaspoonful of cold water, using a thick porcelain-lined saucepan or copper sugar boiler; skim until perfectly clear, and test in the following way: Dip the thumb and forefinger into cold water and then quickly into the boiling sugar, withdrawing it instantly; press the fingers together, and then draw them apart; if the sugar forms a little thread between them it is ready to use, if it does not, boil a few minutes longer and test again. When it is ready dip the leaves and branches into it, and dry them in the card board frame as directed above. Keep the sugar at the boiling point, and as soon as it forms a clear brittle thread between the fingers, when tested as above, dip the entire fruit into it, moving the cherries around so that the sugar completely covers them, and dry them, placed as above in the card board frame, in the mouth of a cool oven.

=Currant Salad.=--Remove the stems from half a pound each of red and white currants, (cost ten cents,) and pile them in regular layers high in the centre of a shallow glass dish, sifting a little powdered sugar between each layer; the sugar will cost two or three cents. A gill of cream, (cost five cents,) may be poured over the top, if desired. The dish should be tastefully ornamented with green leaves, and the salad kept very cool until wanted for use. The cost of a nice dishful will be about eighteen cents.

=Iced Currants.=--Beat the white of one egg, (cost one cent,) to a stiff froth, mix it with three dessertspoonfuls of cold water, dip into it carefully some perfect bunches of ripe red and white currants, which can be bought in season for ten cents a pound; drain each bunch a moment and then dust it well with powdered sugar, lay each bunch carefully upon a large sheet of white paper, so that there is plenty of room between the bunches, and set them in a cool, airy place for five hours. The sugar will partly crystalize upon the fruit, and the effect will be very pretty. The cost of a good sized dish will be about fifteen cents.

=Compote of Damsons.=--Wipe one quart of sound, ripe damsons, (cost ten cents,) with a clean, dry cloth, drop them, one by one into the following syrup: make a syrup by melting one pound of loaf sugar (cost fifteen cents,) with one pint of water, stir in the white of an egg, (cost one cent,) and boil the syrup fifteen minutes, skimming it clear. Simmer the plums in this syrup until they are tender, about five minutes, but do not let them break; take the plums up carefully and arrange them in a heap on a shallow dish, letting the syrup boil about ten minutes, until it is quite thick; then remove it from the fire, cool it a little, and pour it over the plums. The dish will cost about twenty-five cents.

=Stuffed Dates.=--Remove the stones from a pound of fine dates, (cost ten cents,) by cutting them open at one side; remove the shells and skins from half a pound of almonds, (cost ten cents;) the skins can easily be rubbed off by first pouring boiling water on the almond kernels; replace the date-stones with the almonds, and arrange the dates neatly on a shallow dish; dust a little powdered sugar over them, and keep them in a cool, dry place till ready to use. The dish will cost twenty-three cents.

=Stewed Figs.=--Dissolve four ounces of powdered sugar, (cost three cents,) in one pint of cold water, and flavor with a few drops of any essence preferred; put into it a pound of nice figs, (cost ten cents,) heat slowly, and stew gently for about two hours, or until the figs are tender. Eat hot with a dish of boiled rice, or serve cold. The cost will be less than fifteen cents.

=Compote of Gooseberries.=--Choose a quart of large, sound, ripe, green gooseberries, (cost ten cents,) remove the stems and tops, throw them into boiling water for two minutes; drain them, let them lay three minutes in cold water containing a tablespoonful of vinegar, to restore their color, and then drain them quite dry. Meantime make a thick syrup by boiling one pound of sugar, (cost twelve cents,) with one pint of water; as soon as the syrup has boiled about ten minutes, put in the gooseberries and boil them gently until just tender, about ten minutes. Then pour both fruit and syrup into an earthen or glass dish; cool, and use. The dish will cost less than twenty-five cents.

=Gooseberry Cheese.=--Remove the tops and stalks from two quarts of ripe, red gooseberries, (cost twenty cents,) put them in a moderate oven till soft enough to rub through a seive; then add to them one-fourth their weight of sugar, set them over the fire to boil gently for half an hour, stirring them constantly, and skimming till clear; then put by the tablespoonful on plates, and dry in the mouth of a cool oven. Pack, when quite cool, in a tight box, between sheets of white wrapping paper. The above quantity will cost about twenty-five cents.

=Gooseberry Fool.=--Remove tops and stalks from two quarts of gooseberries, boil them with three quarters of their weight in sugar, and half a pint of cold water, until soft enough to pulp through a sieve; then mix the pulp with a pint of milk, or cream, if a more expensive dish is desired, and put into an earthen or glass dish to cool; serve cold. The above quantity will cost about twenty-five cents.

=Grape Jelly.=--Dissolve one ounce of gelatine, (cost eight cents,) in half a pint of cold water. Break one pound and a half of grapes, (cost ten cents,) in an earthen bowl with a wooden spoon; strain the juice without pressing the grapes, through clean muslin, three times; put the juice into a preserve kettle with half a pound of loaf sugar, (cost eight cents,) and the dissolved isinglass, and boil it ten minutes; rub a jelly mold with pure salad oil; add two tablespoonfuls of brandy, (cost three cents,) to the jelly; pour it into the mould, and cool until the jelly sets firm. The above ingredients will make about a pint and a half of jelly, and will usually cost about twenty-five cents, for the above estimate is rather more than the average cost.

=Green Gage Compote.=--Remove the skin from a quart of very ripe green gages, (cost fifteen cents,) put them in a glass dish, sprinkle them over with a pound of powdered sugar, (cost ten cents,) and let them stand in a cool place four hours, until a nice syrup has been formed. The dish is delicious, and costs about twenty-five cents.

=Pine Apple Julep.=--Pare and slice a very ripe pine apple, which in season will cost about ten cents; lay it in a glass dish; pour over it the juice of one orange, (cost two cents,) the juice of one lemon, (cost two cents,) a gill of any fruit syrup, (cost about five cents,) and two tablespoonfuls of rum, (cost three cents;) sprinkle it with a little powdered sugar, cool it on the ice, and serve it cold. It will cost about twenty-five cents.

=Lemon Snow.=--Soak one ounce of gelatine, (cost eight cents,) in one pint of cold water for half an hour; peel the yellow rind from three lemons, (cost six cents,) and squeeze and strain their juice; put the rind and juice of the lemons into a saucepan with eight ounces of loaf sugar, (cost eight cents,) and stir until the sugar and isinglass are quite dissolved; pour it into a bowl, and let it cool, and begin to grow firm. Then add the whites of three eggs, (cost three cents,) and beat to a stiff froth. Pile by the tablespoonful high in the centre of a glass dish. It is pretty and delicious, and costs only about twenty-five cents.

=Melon Compote.=--Make a syrup by boiling one pound of sugar, (cost ten cents,) with half a pint of water. Pare and slice a spicy musk melon, (cost five cents,) and put it into the syrup with a little wine, (cost five cents.) Boil gently for ten minutes, take up the melon in a glass dish, cool the syrup a little, and pour it over the melon. Serve the _compote_ cold; it is delicious, and costs only about twenty-five cents.

=Orange Salad.=--Peel six oranges, (cost twelve cents,) slice them, place them in rings in a glass dish, sprinkle them with three ounces of powdered sugar, (cost two cents,) pour over them a little wine and brandy, and let them stand over night in a cool place. A good dish full will cost about twenty cents.

=Orange and Apple Compote.=--Pare and slice very thin three oranges, (cost six cents,) and three apples, (cost three cents,) removing the seeds from both: lay the slices in rings in a glass dish, cover, with the following syrup, and cool. Boil the orange peel in half a pint of water, with four ounces of sugar, (cost four cents,) until the syrup is clear; add a tablespoonful of brandy to it, cool it a little, and pour it over the sliced fruit. The dish is very nice when iced, and costs about fifteen cents.

=Peach Salad.=--Pare and quarter a quart of ripe peaches, (cost ten cents,) lay them in a heap in a shallow glass dish; squeeze over them the juice of an orange, (cost two cents,) and sprinkle them with powdered sugar, (cost two cents.) Put them on the ice to get very cold. A large dishful can be prepared for fifteen cents.

=Cold Compote of Pears.=--Peel and slice thin a quart of Bartlett pears, (cost fifteen cents,) lay them in a glass dish, pour over them a little wine, and sprinkle them plentifully with powdered sugar. Let them stand in a cool place for an hour before using them. A nice dish will cost less than twenty cents.

=Stewed Prunelles.=--Put a pound of prunelles, (cost fifteen cents,) in enough boiling water to cover them, and stew them gently for one hour. Take them up with a skimmer, strain their juice, return it to the fire with four ounces of loaf sugar, (cost four cents,) the yellow rind and juice of one lemon, (cost two cents,) and a glass of wine; skim until clear, add the prunelles, and stew again for one hour. Take up the prunelles in a glass dish, cool the syrup a little, and strain it over them. Cool before using. The dish can be made for about twenty-five cents.

=Quince Cakes.=--Wash some quinces, boil them in enough water to cover them, until they are tender enough to rub through a seive; to each quart add a pound and a half of loaf sugar, place the mixture over the fire, and heat to the boiling point, stirring it constantly, but do not let it boil. Oil some plates, spread the quince upon them, and dry it in the mouth of a cool oven. Then cut it in cakes, pack it in a tin box, between layers of white wrapping paper, when it is thoroughly cold, and keep it in a cool, dry place. A good dishful can be made for twenty-five cents.

=Quince Snow.=--Boil some nice quinces until tender, peel them, rub them through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and add to each pound a pound of powdered sugar, (cost ten cents,) and the whites of three eggs, (cost three cents.) Beat with an egg whisk to a stiff froth and pile by the tablespoonful in the centre of a shallow glass dish. A nice dishful can be made for about twenty-five cents.

=Iced Raspberries.=--Beat the white of one egg, (cost one cent,) with two tablespoonfuls of cold water; pick over a quart of fine ripe raspberries, (cost ten cents,) dip them one by one into the egg, and roll them in powdered sugar; lay them on white paper spread on a baking sheet, so that they do not touch, and dry them in a cold, dry place, sifting a little more sugar over them, if they seem to grow moist. When the berries are in season, twenty-five cents will cover the cost of a large dish.

=Raspberry Salad.=--Pick over a quart of ripe raspberries, (cost ten cents,) pile them high in the centre of a glass dish, pour over them a glass of wine, (cost five cents,) dust them with an ounce of powdered sugar, (cost one cent,) and keep on the ice till used. A good dishful can be made for about twenty cents.

=Compote of Strawberries.=--Carefully pick over a quart of ripe strawberries, (cost ten cents;) put them in an earthen dish, pour over them a syrup made by boiling quarter of a pound of sugar, (cost four cents,) with one gill of water, for ten minutes; let the berries stand in this syrup for one hour; then drain them and pile them in a heap in a shallow glass dish; add to the syrup the juice of one orange, (cost two cents,) or a glass of wine; boil it up and cool it a little, and strain it over the berries; cool and use. This delicious dish costs about fifteen cents.

=Strawberry Drops.=--Rub some ripe strawberries through a fine seive with a wooden spoon; add two ounces of this juice to half a pound of powdered sugar, (cost five cents,) put the mixture into a saucepan and stir it over the fire until it begins to simmer; remove it from the fire, and stir it briskly for five minutes, oil some paper, lay it on a baking sheet, drop the strawberries on it by the salt-spoonful, dry them in the mouth of a cool oven. Keep them between layers of white paper in a cool place. A good supply can be made for twenty-five cents.

=Compote of Mixed Fruit.=--Boil half a pound of loaf sugar, (cost eight cents,) with one gill of cold water for ten minutes; pick over half a pound of red currants, (cost five cents,) and a pint of raspberries, (cost five cents,) and simmer them in the syrup for ten minutes. Take up the fruit on a glass dish, cool the syrup a little and pour it over the fruit. The dish will cost less than twenty cents.

=Fruit Juice.=--Rub ripe fruit through a seive, with a wooden spoon, and then strain it free from skins and seeds; to every pound add quarter of a pound of loaf sugar; mix well; put into wide-mouthed glass bottles, and set them in a pan with cold water reaching to the necks of the bottles. Set the pan over the fire and let the water come to a boil; remove the pan and let the bottles stand in the water until they are quite cold. Then cork them tightly, and seal them with wax or resin.

Keep them in a cool, dry place. This juice added to ice-water, and sweetened to taste, makes a delicious sherbet.

THE END.

INDEX.

COST. PAGE. _A la Mode_ Beef, with potatoes 35 57 Apple Dumplings 15 64

Bacon and Apple Roly-poly, with Vegetables 25 48 Baked Apple Dumplings 18 64 Baked Heart 25 47 Baked Pig's Head 22 50 Barley Water 2 23 Batter for frying 4 52 Batter for frying 5 59 Beans and Bacon 10 40 Beans, Baked 10 39 Beans, Fried 10 40 Bean Soup 10 33 Beans, Stewed 10 40 Beef _A la Mode_ 35 57 Beef Broth, with Dumplings 25 37 Beef Patties 30 58 Beef Pie 25 46 Beer -- 22 Beer for Nursing Women -- 23 Biscuits, Sweet 17 66 Biscuits, Tea 6 27 _Blanquette_ of Veal, with Potatoes 30 61 Brain and Liver Pudding 15 56 Bread per 8 lbs 24 25 Bread Pudding 15 63 Breakfast Rolls 6 27 Broth, Beef 25 37 Broth, Chicken 5 53 Broth, Mutton 17 36 Broth, Scotch 10 32 Broth, Veal 13 36 Broth, White 25 36

Cake, Caraway 24 66 Cake, Rice 15 65 Cake, Rock 22 65 Chicken Broth 5 53 Chicken, Fried 35 52 Cheese Pudding 12 41 Chocolate -- 21 Chowder 20 35 Cocoa -- 21 Cocoa, per quart 6 22 Codfish Steaks and Potatoes 20 45 Coffee -- 21 Coffee, per quart 6 22 College Pudding 18 62 Cooking -- 16 Cream Rice Pudding 15 63 Cream Sauce 6 62 Cream Soup, with Macaroni 25 37 Croquettes, Rice 20 65 Cup Custards 12 63

Dumplings, Apple 15 64 Dumplings, Apple, Baked 18 64 Dumpling, Fruit 20 64 Dumpling, Gammon 15 48 Dumplings, Lemon 23 64 Dumplings, Norfolk 7 37 Dumplings, Suet 5 53 Dessert 10 to 25 67

Fish Chowder 20 35 Fish Pudding 25 44 Fish Soup 20 35 Fish and Potato Pie 25 44 Fish and Potato Pudding 15 45 Forcemeat for Poultry 10 51 Forcemeat for Veal 5 60 Fowl, Roast 38 51 Fruit Dumplings 20 64 Fruit Tarts 12 65

Gammon Dumpling 15 48 German Potatoes 10 55 Gingerbread, Soft 10 66

Half-pay Pudding 20 63 Hasty Pudding 4 42

Indian Bread 5 42 Indian Cakes 5 42 Indian Pudding, Baked 15 43 Indian Pudding, Boiled 10 42 Irish Stew 23 49

Johnny Cake 5 42

Kidneys, Broiled, with potatoes 20 56 Kidneys, Pigs' 10 47 Kidney Pudding 30 47 Kidney, Stewed, with potatoes 25 47 Kromeskys 20 58

Lamb, _Epigramme_, with Broth and Rice 20 59 Lemon Dumplings 23 64 Lentils, Boiled 14 41 Lentils, Fried 10 41 Lentil Soup 10 33 Lentils, Stewed 10 41 Lime Water -- 24 Liver Polenta 12 57

Macaroni, Farmers' Style 10 28 Macaroni, Milanaise Style 13 28 Macaroni, with Broth 10 28 Macaroni, with Cheese 12 28 Macaroni, with Tomato Sauce 18 29 Macaroni, with White Sauce 10 28 Maize -- 41 Marketing -- 10 Measuring -- 19 Meat Brewis 5 38 Meat Patties, with Potatoes 30 58 Milk -- 23 Mutton Boiled, with Turnips and Potatoes 17 58 Mutton Broth, with Vegetables 17 36 Mutton Kromeskys, with Potatoes 20 58 Mutton and Onions 30 48 Mutton _rechauffee_, with Potatoes 15 58

Norfolk Dumplings 7 37 New York Cooking School Fricassee 43 53

Oatmeal and Peas 13 38 Onion Soup 10 34 Oxtail Stew, with Bread 22 46

Patties, Beef, with Potatoes 30 58 Patties, Veal and Ham 30 61 Peas and Bacon 25 39 Peas and Onions 10 39 Peas, Baked 10 39 Peas Pudding 10 39 Pea Soup 10 33 Pea Soup, thick 6 33 Pickled Shad, with bread 20 54 Pigs' Head, Baked 22 50 Polenta 5 41 Polenta, Liver 12 57 Pork and Onions 20 49 Pork Chops, with Potatoes 25 55 Pork Pie 20 54 Pork, Roast, with Apples 27 55 Potato Bread, per 8 lbs 24 26 Potatoes, German 10 55 Pudding, Brain and Liver 15 56 Pudding, Bread 15 63 Pudding, Cheese 12 41 Pudding, College 18 62 Pudding, Cream Rice 15 63 Pudding, Fish and Potato 25 45 Pudding, Half-pay 20 63 Pudding, Hasty 4 42 Pudding, Kidney 30 47 Pudding, Peas 10 39 Pudding, Swiss, with Sauce 20 62 Pulled Bread 3 26

Rabbit Curry 28 53 Rabbit Pie 30 54 Red Herrings and Potatoes, with Bread 22 45 Rice, Boiled 7 30 Rice Bread, per 8 lbs 25 26 Rice Cake 15 65 Rice Croquettes 20 65 Rice, Japanese Style 10 30 Rice, Milanaise Style 10 30 Rice Milk 15 35 Rice Panada 12 30 Roast Fowl 38 51 Roast Pork, with Apples 27 55 Roast Veal, with Potatoes 30 60 Rock Cakes 22 65 Rolls, Breakfast 6 27

Salt, Celery -- 19 Salt, Spice -- 19 Sauce, Cream 6 62 Sauce, Table, per pint 6 19 Sauce, Tomato 10 29 Sausage, Stewed 25 55 Scotch Broth, without Meat 10 32 Seasoning -- 18

Soft Gingerbread 10 66 Swiss Pudding, with Sauce 20 62 Shad, Pickled 20 54 Sheep's Head Stew 25 46 Sheep's Haslet 17 49 Soup, Bean 10 33 Soup, Cream 25 37 Soup, Fish 20 35 Soup, Lentil 10 33 Soup, Onion 10 34 Soup, Pea 10 33 Soup, Spinach 15 34 Soup, Thick Pea 6 33 Soup, Vegetable 20 34 Spinach Soup 15 34 Stuffing for Poultry 10 51 Stuffing for Veal 5 60 Suet Dumplings 5 53 Sweet Biscuits 17 65

Table Sauce, per pint 6 19 Tarts, Fruit 12 65 Tea -- 21 Tea Biscuit 6 27 Tea, per quart 3 22 Tincture Lemon -- 19 Tincture Orange -- 19 Tincture Vanilla -- 19 Tomato Sauce 10 29 Tripe, Curry and Rice 27 56

White Broth, with Macaroni 25 36

Veal and Ham Patties 30 61 Veal and Rice 20 49 Veal, _Blanquette_, with Potatoes 30 61 Veal Broth, with Vegetables 13 36 Veal, Roast, with Potatoes 30 60 Vegetable Soup and Bacon 20 34 Vegetable Porridge 15 35

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[Transcriber's Notes: 'Seive' and "sieve' seem to be used interchangeably by the author, they have left them as they were found on page. Hyphenation, spelling and punctuation have also been left as they are on the page. The one entry for 'W' in the index appears where it is on the page, between the 'T' and the 'V.']