Turkish Memories

CHAPTER XV

Chapter 1712,243 wordsPublic domain

CONCLUSION

Truths can never be confirmed enough, Though doubts did ever sleep. SHAKESPEARE

ENGLISHMEN who are old enough to remember the Crimean war might well rub their eyes on coming to Constantinople to-day, where the stranger, after being shown the public fountain in Stamboul dedicated by the German Emperor to the Sultan, is taken over the water to Scutari, where, in the most picturesque cemetery in the world, England’s dead warriors sleep under the cool shade of the cypress-tree. Gone are the days when Englishmen and Turks fought as Allies, when the Sultan Abdul Medjid visited the British Embassy as the guest of his trusted friend, Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, when English capitalists supported Turkey’s credit, and English merchant princes first introduced railways into Turkey and dominated the sea-borne commerce as well as the passenger traffic of the Levant. In those times the Englishman embodied in the eyes of the Mohammedan Turk all that was estimable and reliable among the “Franks.”

Since those comparatively recent days many changes have been wrought. Foreign bankers, powerful international syndicates have encroached upon English financial influence, and nearly all the Turkish railways and most of the shipping have gone into other than English hands. The finest passenger steamers that come to Constantinople are German, Austrian, Italian, and Russian. The dead alone sleep on as before, under the shady groves of Scutari.

Whatever may be the causes which have brought about these changes, it is permissible for an Englishman to deplore them, not only on economic grounds, but also as a matter of sentiment and of sympathy with the Turks, who have been the greatest losers thereby.

Alas that the supreme ordainment of things in the life of nations, even of whole races and creeds, takes small account of the ups and downs, the sufferings of whole generations of human beings, whatever be their virtues. The Albigenses represented a far higher level of culture, conduct, and principle than those who took up arms against them and brought about their extermination. So also with regard to the Turks in our day, their good qualities are not those which are imperative in order to enable a community to hold its own in times of strenuous commercialism and of unscrupulous political rivalry and intrigue.

For many years the traveller entering Turkish territory at the railway station of Mustapha Pasha saw the Custom House officers in ragged uniforms, on the look-out for baksheesh, since their small salary, if ever paid, was certainly in arrear. How could he come to any other conclusion than that conditions prevailed here which are no longer tolerable in Europe? For even in Asiatic Russia, with all its backwardness, they do not exist. This impression of the anachronism of a Turkey in Europe is likely to be applied to Asia as well by those who have traversed that part of the world, unless some drastic administrative and financial reforms are put into force at once.

Calling one day in the summer of 1896 at the British Embassy, at Therapia, the late Sir Michael Herbert, who was in charge during Sir Philip Currie’s absence, told me that about a hundred years ago the Ambassador of the French Republic at Constantinople, in writing home to his Government, wound up his letter by declaring that the prospects of Turkey looked so desperate that he would not be surprised if the Turkish Empire had ceased to exist before the arrival of his letter.

During a visit I paid to Constantinople in January 1907 something occurred which impressed me forcibly with the conviction that the Hamidian régime, the desire of one man, however well-intentioned and industrious, to do single-handed all the directing work of an empire, was doomed to failure; and this in spite of the many evidences I had had, both in Europe and in Asia, of the personal popularity of the Sultan. It was the talk of Pera that the Chief of the Secret Police, Fehim Pasha, had been guilty of some extraordinary pranks; among them the instigation of sham conspiracies which he pretended to nip in the bud in order to give proof of his devotion to the Sultan. All attempts to draw the Sultan’s attention to this man’s misdeeds had apparently failed, owing, it was said, to His Majesty’s indulgence towards one who was the son of his own foster-brother. Emboldened by success, Fehim Pasha had extended his sphere of black-mailing operations to members of the European colony, while several murders were put to his account as having been their instigator. Still he managed to elude the arm of justice. At last he took upon himself to lay an embargo on a ship, either belonging to a German or in the cargo of which some German firm was interested. Here, however, he came into conflict with the German Ambassador, the late Baron Marschall von Bieberstein, who promptly took the part of his countrymen, saw that the embargo on the ship in question was removed, and, distrustful of the dilatoriness of the officials at the Sublime Porte, lodged a strongly worded complaint direct at the Palace. This ultimately resulted in Fehim Pasha being banished to Asia Minor, where he was subsequently assassinated by a mob in the street. This tragic development, however, only took place after I had left Constantinople.

The German Ambassador, who was always very friendly and frank with me, one day discussed the situation created by Fehim Pasha’s delinquencies. He convinced me that the man was a scoundrel, and that he himself had done no more than what he was perfectly entitled to do in endeavouring to bring one to book who was neither more nor less than a criminal miscreant, fully deserving to be given over to the public hangman.

I happened to call at the Palace next day, and went up as usual into the private room of Izzet Pasha, where, quite unexpectedly, I met my old friend Ahmed Midhat Effendi. It was one of the very few times I had ever known him to pay a visit to the Palace. Fehim Pasha’s crimes and the energetic measures of the German Ambassador formed the subject of conversation in the room. Izzet Pasha warmly expressed his indignation at an Ambassador presuming to interfere in what he considered to be a purely internal incident. “Qu’est ce qu’il s’imagine, ce Monsieur de Marschall?” Knowing what I did of the affair on such good authority, I was taken by surprise, the more so as Ahmed Midhat Effendi joined in upholding the innocence of the incriminated pasha. I could scarcely credit the culpable ignorance thus revealed to me by those to whom it should have been a first care not to lead their master astray on an issue of such vital importance. I said it was hopeless for the well-wishers of Turkey to attempt to say a good word for their Government as long as such things were possible; that the German Ambassador had had the training of a State Prosecutor, and certainly was not one to be misled by unreliable evidence, or to be moved from his point once he had decided upon it; and that English newspapers, which were not usually over-favourably disposed to German interests, had strongly supported the Ambassador in this particular matter. But it was all to no purpose. I failed to shake their belief in Fehim Pasha’s innocence. They even asserted that he was quite a good fellow. The most they would admit was that he had been somewhat hasty and headstrong owing to his youth, “un peu étourdi.” It is only fair to state, however, that those present did not show any ill-feeling at my being so plain-spoken; but this was only in accordance with what I have so often experienced in the Turkish character. Still I left the Palace with a pessimistic feeling.

Sirry Bey, who had been the chief of our expedition in Armenia, called on me at the Pera Palace Hotel one evening and said: “I come to you on behalf of His Majesty. He feels his dignity trespassed upon by the interference of the German Ambassador in this Fehim Pasha business, which he holds to be one of an internal nature not concerning a foreign Ambassador, and he would like to see you.” I mentioned to Sirry Bey what I had heard from the Ambassador, and told him that it seemed to me to be a black business, and he would do well to convey this opinion to the Sultan. In due course I received a message to come up to the Palace immediately as the Sultan wanted to see me.

On my arrival I was taken in to His Majesty, and he at once began to discuss the Fehim Pasha incident, and to complain of the conduct of the German Ambassador. As the editor of the _Daily Mail_ had asked me to send him a report in case I should have an opportunity of interviewing the Sultan, I asked His Majesty whether he would wish me to give his version of the affair to that paper, at the same time repeating to him what I had heard about Fehim Pasha’s delinquencies. Whether the Sultan attached any importance to what I told the interpreter I am unable to say, but in reference to my suggestion he held up his hands in a deprecatory manner, and uttered the words, “Yok! yok!” (“No! no!”) twice in succession.

“It is nothing more than my plain duty to see justice done,” the Sultan said to me. And as if it were monstrous that a doubt could exist with regard to so self-evident a truism, he added: “Even if it were one of my own sons, I would see justice done.”

Of course, I respected his wishes, and did not refer at all to the German Ambassador in my interview with His Majesty, a report of which appeared in the _Daily Mail_ of March 8, 1907. There would also have been no point in my doing so, as I was convinced of the hopelessness of the Sultan’s case, whatever might have been the uncompromising attitude the German Ambassador had taken up. Since such outrages were possible under the very eyes of the diplomatic representatives of the Great Powers in the capital in broad day, was it not within the range of probability that many crimes which had been imputed to the Sultan had indeed been committed, though without his knowledge? I left Constantinople with the conviction that nothing, not even the support of the German Empire, could long sustain a régime in which such things were allowed to happen.

The rivalry of the different European nationalities forms too important a feature in the eyes of the foreign visitor, at least those of a political turn, not to call for comment. Nowhere are Goethe’s words—written nearly a hundred years ago—more applicable than to this subject:

Und wer franzet oder brittet, Italienert oder teutschet Einer will nur wie der Andere Was die Eigenliebe heischet.

_West-Oestlicher Divan_

The idea conveyed is that whether a man speaks in the name of France, Britain, Italy, or Germany, the burden of his contention is invariably self-interest, self-love.

The question of German influence in Turkey has become such a prominent feature in the public eye that it seems to warrant more than a passing reference from one who has had many opportunities of following its development. Our attention has been drawn so much of late to this influence that we are apt to lose sight of what is likely to be a more lasting, as it is certainly a more valuable, feature, namely, its effect as a practical civilizing force. Indeed, this advent of the German, and with him of the Belgian, the Swiss, the Italian, and the Hungarian, as financial and industrial pioneers, as erectors of railways, schools, hospitals, and other useful institutions, may be said to mark a new beneficial era in the East. Nor should it be forgotten that the Germans and their partners have now and then shown a commendable spirit in inviting the co-operation of others whom they to some extent have superseded. For although the Anatolian Railway is essentially a German undertaking, M. Huguenin, a French Swiss, has been elected its chairman. The Mersina-Adana Railway, originally an English enterprise, has also been taken over by the Germans, but they have re-elected the former chairman, an Englishman, resident in Constantinople, to preside over the board of directors. Nor need there be any reason why, under normal conditions, a similar friendly co-operation should not exist in all directions, not merely in commercial and financial matters, but also in the domain of politics. It is therefore to be regretted that the flamboyant circumstances under which the Sultan’s Iradè for the concession of the Bagdad Railway was obtained, and suddenly communicated to the world by the usual telegram, were calculated to arouse an uneasiness in the public mind which a less sensational departure would have avoided. The onerous financial guarantees imposed upon the Turkish Government by the German concessionnaires have not tended to increase the popularity of the German element among thoughtful Turks or the broad strata of the Turkish people who are called upon to make sacrifices for an undertaking the political and economic importance of which they have not the knowledge to appreciate. To such as these the German concessionnaire appears somewhat in the light of the usurer, who is now in addition credited with political aims which Germany long persistently repudiated. But however this may be, there can be little doubt that she has lost rather than gained in her hold on the sympathies of the Turks, since, in addition to the scalpel of the surgeon, the text-book of the schoolmaster, and the staff of Mercury, she has added the sword of the soldier and the Field-Marshal’s baton to the emblems of her activities in the Ottoman Empire, and increased the jealousy of the other Great Powers. Promises of political support to Turkey were undoubtedly given. The Sultan was encouraged to favour the reactionary military element in making appointments. Soldiers were asked for as Ambassadors in preference to diplomatists of Phanariote families, although the latter had supplied for generations past the most able Turkish diplomatists. By Imperial desire a Mohammedan Turkish cavalry officer, Tewfik Pasha, a charming companion, but one completely ignorant of politics, was appointed Turkish Ambassador in Berlin, and remained there until the Turkish revolution in 1908. It is not for non-Germans to decide whether it was to the advantage of the more solid German interests in Turkey and of Turkey herself that the Sultan’s favourites were loaded with Prussian decorations. The last Grand Vizier of Abdul Hamid, Ferid Pasha, an Albanian, only a few days before his dismissal received the Grand Cross of the Black Eagle, a distinction supposed to be on a level with our Order of the Garter. There are things a Government can do which would be reprehensible if done by a private individual, but there are also things which are permissible to an individual but which a Government cannot do without imperilling those unweighable assets the correct estimation and cherishing of which was one of Bismarck’s strongest points. He would never have stooped to such little manœuvres; neither have the English nor the Russians nor even the French condescended to curry favour with the Turks by such questionable means.

For years past the German official world has made a business of flattering the Turks, instead of warning them and, as true friends, insisting on the execution of the reforms upon which the public opinion of Europe insisted. This has been more particularly the case since the Græco-Turkish war of 1897, which was the moment when Germany might have been able to at least postpone the evil day of reckoning which has come in our time on the blood-stained fields of Thrace and Macedonia.

Turkey’s German friends, with all the privileged insight they were allowed into her affairs, appear to have been blind to the black political outlook of the Turkish Empire which politically gifted Italians such as Mazzini and Crispi foresaw and confidently foretold half a century ago. Germany’s policy in Turkey encouraged the Turks to procrastinate and assume a truculent attitude. Hence the collapse of Turkey has been a moral blow to military Germany which might have been avoided, and which no sophistry can hide.

The Turkish officers who have served in the German army may have become imbued with the militant atmosphere of the officers’ mess of the Potsdam Guards; but this does not mean that they have assimilated the better qualities of the German army. And even if they had, they could not possibly hope to engraft these upon the Mohammedan Turk, who is in every way their antithesis. The Turks are very different from the imitative, assimilative Japanese, with whom German military instructors are said to have been so successful. Thus, contrary to current surmise, I venture to hold the heretical opinion that the expectations founded in some quarters on a successful Germanization of the Turkish army are doomed to disappointment. The best type of English or French officers would be more likely to suit as instructors of the Asiatic Turks, as they have both proved their capacity in this respect in their dealings with Asiatics in the past. But an even more pressing question may possibly present itself, namely, the growing political aspirations of Germany in Turkey, which her policy since Bismarck’s retirement, hand in hand with the optimistic publications of many German military writers, has done so much to encourage. These elements also find a support to-day in the headstrong aggressiveness of the Turkish officers above referred to. According to a recent interview with the King of Roumania, that far-sighted monarch characterized them as the one danger still threatening peace in the East.

The English, whatever their mistakes may have been, have played a more dignified and, as I venture to believe, a more far-sighted part—one which thoughtful Turks now recognize was well meant to Turkey.

The general policy of England is graphically laid down in the following letter which the late British Ambassador at Constantinople, Sir Nicholas O’Conor, favoured me with a few months before his death:

“I have no hesitation in saying that I think the strong point in our English policy is the fact that we have invariably based our representations to the Ottoman Government on the undoubted interests of both the Christian and Moslem subjects of the Sultan; that we have upheld justice to all the people; and that we have fought for an honest administration and political freedom, without compromising either the interest of the State or its Sovereign.

“We have kept aloof from the many selfish and ruinous commercial concessions which have been so disastrous in their consequences, and we have abstained from any demands which were not in the interests of Turkey as well as of England. We alone have built, organized, and developed a railway without a penny guarantee from the Turkish Government, and by capable and honest administration we have made it a commercial success. I refer, of course, to the Smyrna-Aidin Railway.

“This attitude on our part has been appreciated by Turkey and more especially by the Moslems.

“The several demands which England has put forward as conditions to her consent to the 3 per cent. increased Customs duty are as much in the interests of Turkish as of foreign trade, and our resolute insistence on these points has been an object-lesson all round.

“We have impressed upon Turkey the advantages of developing her enormous internal resources, and we have succeeded in obtaining such alterations of the old Mining Law as will now permit British as well as foreign capital to be embarked in Turkey without more risks than usually attend such enterprises.”

My own experience fully corroborates the above statement of the British Ambassador that the Mohammedans have indeed appreciated the rectitude of English policy and its freedom from all shady transactions. Also as regards the best class of Englishmen (for these alone come into consideration)—once they have rid themselves of their prejudices—their self-restraint, reserve, and, above all, their reliability and fair dealing in personal intercourse generally cause them to be trusted, if not liked, by the Mohammedan, who instinctively distrusts effusiveness, voluble protestations, and more particularly the obtrusiveness associated with the pushing commis-voyageur. This explains why many Turks, even in the hour of their humiliation, prefer the English to others in spite of many advantages they may have reaped from the latter.

That Germany may retain and even increase the commercial hold which she has already gained in Turkey seems more than likely unless others are prepared to compete successfully with her in financial enterprise and industrial efficiency. Her geographical position places her in easy connexion with the Turkish Empire for commercial purposes not only through Roumania and the Black Sea but also by the Danube and by rail through Servia and Bulgaria. All this is decidedly in her favour. But whether in the long run she will be able to use these assets to gain a permanent political ascendancy extending over Asia Minor, as openly advocated by the pan-German party, may well be open to question. Certain idiosyncrasies of the German character erect between the races a barrier which does not exist when the Turk comes into contact with the English, the Italians, the French, and the Greeks. Apart from all this the geographical position of Germany seems to set fixed limits to her political ambitions. For if there is a country the situation of which might well entitle her to look forward to political possibilities in Turkey, it is surely Austria-Hungary, whose frontiers for centuries past along the Danube have been co-terminating with those of Turkey. The character of the Austro-Hungarians also shows many points of affinity with that of the Turks. The German language is another stumbling-block in the way of extending German ideas beyond certain limits,[29] and it encounters a powerful competitor in the French language. French has been recognized in Turkey as the foremost tongue of the “Franks” for nearly three hundred years. There are close upon six hundred schools in Turkey in which French forms part of the regular curriculum. French is spoken more or less by nearly every Turkish official above a certain rank; German by scarcely any. This difficulty of the German language competing with the French has already been felt by the German authorities engaged in the working of the Anatolian Railway. It will also be found a hindrance in case serious efforts should be made to start German colonies along the track of the railway, a plan few people who have visited these regions think likely to succeed, at least yet awhile, although many Germans will recall the strange story of the Saxon colony in Transylvania, and fondly imagine that this unique phenomenon is likely to repeat itself in Asia Minor. Germany’s geographical position, which is in her favour where commercial facilities are concerned, is decidedly against her once political influences come to the fore. Several instances in point have arisen of late years in which she has been unable to convert her Turkish sympathies into effective action in favour of Turkey against the opposition of Russia, France, and England. This was notably the case in the naval demonstration against Turkish rule in Crete in 1898 and also in a lesser degree in the Græco-Turkish war of 1897, when, Russia objecting to the German military instructors taking part in that campaign, Turkey was prevailed upon to recall those who had already started for the front. An even more recent case in which Germany failed to support Turkish interests successfully arose in connexion with English action on the Egyptian frontier, and this is still in public memory. But by far the most potent cause which is likely to prevent German political influence getting beyond certain well-defined limits in Turkey is to be found in the ever-watchful jealousy of Russia—Turkey’s most relentless and stealthy foe.

Footnote 29:

During our two months’ journey through Armenia in 1897–98 Dr. Hepworth and myself did not come across a single German, nor even one person who spoke German, though in common fairness it must be admitted we did not touch the Anatolian Railway tract, which is, of course, largely a German enterprise. French, English, Italian, and Greek were the European languages spoken.

Neither England, France, nor Russia, as great Mohammedan Powers, can be expected in the long run to view the “conversion” of German influence into the assumption of the part of Protector of Islam with complacency, much less with favour. The fact that the action of these Powers is apparently a passive one for the present would not justify us in assuming that it will permanently remain so.

The real disposer of Turkey—the vulture hovering overhead, ready to swoop down upon her, though restrained for a time by the kindly feelings of the present Emperor Nicholas[30]—is, and always was, Russia: Russia, which has steadily and relentlessly aimed at the destruction of the Mohammedan empire of the Ottomans.

Footnote 30:

I have it on good authority that the present Tsar solemnly promised Sultan Abdul Hamid that he would not undertake anything against Turkey in his lifetime. This personal promise has been nullified now that the Sultan has been dethroned.

From the moment England and Russia arrived at an understanding the fate of Turkey in Europe was in jeopardy, and any ambitions which Germany had in Turkey were doomed to sterility. Even to-day their hopelessness is not realized, for the Germans still enjoy the fruits of past prestige, and the Russians, who are not petty where great issues are at stake, have quietly looked on at Hedjas and Bagdad Railway concession-mongering. It will only be when Germany makes any serious attempt to galvanize Asiatic Turkey into life that the Russians will and can cry “Halt!”

Friedrich Bodenstedt—and few better judges of Eastern life could be quoted—writing fifty years ago, has the following: “The Caucasus is the basis of future world-hegemony. Which does not mean that it will come about in a day, nor vanish overnight, but gradually and inevitably, without the befooled nations, proudly conscious of their superior education, having a suspicion of the danger which threatens them. The submission of Shamyl in the east and the exodus of the Circassians in the west of the Caucasus are events of which the Press took hardly any notice at the time, but which future generations will consider to be among the most important happenings of the century.”[31]

Footnote 31:

“Tausend und ein Tag im Orient.” Berlin, 1865.

A glance at the map of the Turkish Empire and its frontier separating the territories of the Northern Colossus should be sufficient to bring home to the most casual student the full significance of this passage, and to illuminate M. Nelidow’s remark to me in 1896, “We shall never allow others to handle the key of our house,” meaning the Bosphorus. But nobody could well traverse Anatolia and witness its desolate condition, without roads or bridges—more backward than Siberia or Manchuria—without realizing that the danger of absorption by Russia is like the sword of Damocles, a menace ever present. As a matter of fact, Russia occupied Erzeroum temporarily in 1878, and only the pressure of England at the Congress of Berlin induced her to withdraw. As long as England was at variance with Russia the danger was kept in suspense, but now that they are united in an entente it would be foolhardiness for any other Power to imagine that it could intervene and prevent by force of arms any consummation which these two had agreed upon. Should such an entente lead to a dividing up of Asiatic Turkey into different spheres of influence among the Great Powers, there would in all probability be a European war, as foreshadowed by Professor Vambéry,[32] which ultimately would be only too likely to result in the incorporation of the greater part of Turkey in Asia in the Russian Empire, since Russia never will, and in view of her geographical position never can, allow Germany to be the permanently dominating influence on the Bosphorus.

Footnote 32:

See Appendix, p. 291.

In the course of my first visit to Prince Bismarck in April 1891, the topic of Russia’s intentions with regard to Constantinople was discussed. To my surprise, the Prince stated that he did not believe Russia intended to take Constantinople. Russia might even undertake to guarantee the Sultan in the possession of his palaces, his harem, and his wives on condition that no other strong Power should be dominant on the Bosphorus. I ventured to ask the Prince whether he did not think such a development might be inimical to British interests. Bismarck replied: “Not necessarily so.”[33]

Footnote 33:

I was on the point of publishing this conversation at the time, but wrote first to Bismarck to ask his permission, to which he replied asking me to refrain from publication.

Leaving these far-flung possibilities out of consideration, it is worth while pondering what beneficial part England can play in the East. Many liberal-minded Englishmen have advocated that Germany and England should join hands with other nations and endeavour to work peacefully together, in order to enable Turkey to introduce reforms, exploit her unlimited resources, and thus place herself in a strong independent position in Asia; the only hope left to her.

The British Government might be careful not to send minor officials to Turkey imbued with dislike for the Turk. Such men play into the hands of our rivals by drawing up reports marked by ill-feeling towards the Turks, by corresponding with English newspapers in the same vein, and thereby they indirectly hamper English chances in the competition for commercial advantages. When these practices have ceased, then the goodwill of the Turk will come as a matter of course, and will readily take the practical shape of giving English capital an equal chance in competing for the many valuable opportunities for developing trade still to be had in Turkey; for it may come as news to many Englishmen that, next to Holland and Switzerland, Turkey has the lowest tariff of any country in Europe, and approaches nearest to the English ideal of Free Trade. The splendid work already done by England in Egypt, particularly in the matter of irrigation, affords ample guarantee that honest co-operation between England and Germany, as advocated by Lieutenant-Colonel H. P. Picot (see Appendix, p. 294), might not only result in an addition to, but in a multiplication of, forces working for the benefit of Turkey and for the advantage of the world at large.

APPENDIX

APPENDIX

IN the autumn of 1912 a paragraph appeared in a London evening paper announcing that a street in Plumstead had been named after Professor Arminius Vambéry, the eminent Hungarian scholar, who, as is well known, was a personal friend of Queen Victoria and Edward VII, and I sent it to him. This little incident led to a correspondence between us, of which the following letters of the Professor, written in English, are a portion. After his death I sent copies to his son, Dr. Rustem Vambéry—who, like his father before him, is now a Professor at the University of Budapest—and received by return the authorization to publish them, which is embodied in the first letter of the series. In view of the eminence of Professor Vambéry as an authority on Eastern affairs, I gladly avail myself of his kind permission to do so.

BUDAPEST, _October 11, 1913_.

DEAR MR. WHITMAN,—I thank you most heartily for the delicacy of feeling which prompted you to give me the opportunity of revising my father’s letters to you, which you are quite at liberty to publish.

I have read them carefully through, and see no reason to alter or omit anything. You know how proud my father was of his status as an independent man, who could freely express his views without let or hindrance. Why should I not continue to act for him in this spirit now that he has passed away?

It might perhaps interest you to know that your work on Austria[34] was the last book he read in his life. The afternoon before his death he asked me to read a few pages aloud, for his sufferings (oppression of the heart) were alleviated by the distraction.

He was a great admirer of your writings, a feeling which has been fully inherited by

Yours most sincerely,

DR. R. VAMBÉRY

(Professor of Criminal Law at the University of Budapest).

Footnote 34:

“The Realm of the Habsburgs,” by Sidney Whitman. Wm. Heinemann, London, 1892.

I

BUDAPEST UNIVERSITY, _November 12, 1912_.

DEAR MR. WHITMAN,—It was very kind of you to remember the old Dervish and to take interest in the honour bestowed upon him by your magnanimous countrymen.[35] Any services I may have rendered to England are insignificant; but I am proud of having been able to champion England’s interests, for, in spite of all shortcomings, you are still the greatest nation in the world.

The fate of our poor Turkish friends is sealed. They will get rid of the cumbersome European ballast, and it is to be wished that they should be able to recuperate in Asia, where they cannot be replaced by any other Moslem nation. Their collapse in Europe was inevitable, and it is only the suddenness of the fall which has surprised me.

My son is much pleased by your kindly remembrance of the slight attention he was able to pay to you. He only acted as in duty bound towards a foreigner and an Englishman.[36]

Yours very truly,

A. VAMBÉRY.

Footnote 35:

Reference to the naming of a street in Plumstead already mentioned above.

Footnote 36:

Reference to my stay in Budapest in the summer of 1897, during which I made the acquaintance of Professor Vambéry’s son.

II

_December 14, 1912._

DEAR MR. WHITMAN,—Allow me to express to you the great pleasure I felt in reading your article published in the _Pall Mall Gazette_ under the title “Some German Military Writers.”[37] It is certainly highly gratifying that you, sir, whom I know as the most able writer on German affairs in England, should have come forward to give a good lesson to these overbearing gentlemen. It is in any case a most important _signum temporis_, and it must diminish the idolization of brutal force, of sad mediæval traditions. The eminent soldier who wrote the book “Unser Volk in Waffen” (General von der Goltz) is often quoted by Germans when comparisons are drawn between England and Germany’s Imperial power, and deductions are drawn therefrom of Britain’s near downfall. Well, let us hope that they are grossly mistaken, just as they were mistaken in predicting a sure victory for the poor Turks, of whom a great German once stated, in the presence of Sultan Abdul Hamid, that “_one Turkish soldier was worth three Prussians_.” The German military instructor may have succeeded in turning the goodly Turk into a Prussian, minus the Pickelhaube, but Lule-Burgas has proved a most cruel disenchantment to the glorifiers of General Bernhardi’s theories.

In so far I agree with your views. But there is one point with regard to which the English must take particular care, and this is not to fall into the mistake of disregarding the necessity arising from the general situation of European armaments. Formerly the English were quite right to pity the man on the Continent forcibly made a soldier; to-day, however, you must consider the Latin saying, _Ulula cum lupis_, and you are compelled to take note of your next-door neighbours. You must approve Lord Roberts’s efforts regarding compulsory military service. If Lord Haldane finds it possible to admire all sorts of German theories and institutions, why does he make an exception with regard to universal military service, which is a genuine German invention?

Yours very truly,

A. VAMBÉRY.

Footnote 37:

In the issue of December 4, 1912.

III

BUDAPEST UNIVERSITY, _December 30, 1912_.

DEAR MR. WHITMAN,—I have read your ably written chapter on Sultan Abdul Hamid with much interest, and I may tell you that I can neither add to nor take away anything from its contents. Of course there is a good deal I could say about the man whose favourite I was supposed to be during more than ten years, but it is impossible to lift the veil more than I did in the two essays I published in the June and July numbers of 1909 of the _Nineteenth Century and After_, in which you can find more than one episode worth reproduction.

Abdul Hamid was decidedly an extraordinary man. Want of able and trustworthy Ministers caused his downfall; but it is generally admitted that if he had remained on the throne the present catastrophe would not have taken place. As I hear from Constantinople, he has got much chance to return to power. The bulk of the nation is siding with him. The Young Turks confess themselves the mistake they made (_vide_ a paper by Husein Djahid, the editor of the _Tanin_, in the January (1913) number of the _Deutsche Revue_). The adherents of the old school were always in the Opposition, but the blow was too heavy a one, and I very much doubt whether he, or anybody else, will be able to heal the wounds.

Be so kind as to let me have a copy of the book you will publish, as I am much interested in the late Sultan. Properly speaking, I was not his favourite, for he wanted to use my pen in the interest of Russia, whereas I endeavoured to turn him into British waters, in which I should have probably succeeded if your politicians and your public opinion had not been under the sway of false humanitarian views, and if your nation had not lost the persistency of bygone ages.

In a personal meeting with you I could furnish you with more than one detail. With best greetings from my son,

Yours sincerely,

A. VAMBÉRY.

IV

_January 1, 1913._

DEAR MR. WHITMAN,—My letter of yesterday will answer most of your questions, and I only write to tell you that your friendly feelings towards Sultan Abdul Hamid ought not to blind you to the real character of this unfortunate prince. He was decidedly highly gifted, though this was less apparent towards the end of his reign. He suffered from the defects of Eastern princes and of Orientals in general. His intentions may have been honest, but the means he applied were decidedly perverse and he never listened to advice, nor did he believe in anybody.

At all events I look forward to the issue of your book with interest.

Yours sincerely,

A. VAMBÉRY.

V

_January 6, 1913._

DEAR MR. WHITMAN,—I had great pleasure in perusing the copy I duly received of your chapter on Sultan Abdul Hamid. Your able pen has lent colour to his career, even though you could not of course deal fully with his real doings.

If I have not always done full justice to this extraordinary man, I may plead some excuse. For more than twelve years I worked hard, I even risked my life, to lead him into the harbour of political security by which the present catastrophe could have been avoided, without, I regret to say, being able to achieve any result.

His entourage made him over-cautious and distrustful, and I am sure he will be haunted by remorse when he remembers our long evening conversations in the Yildiz Kiosk or Chalet Kiosk. He is not the only culprit: your statesmen, too, have made great mistakes.

I trust your poetical pen will be fully appreciated by the reading public, for, as I have told you already, Abdul Hamid has still a fair chance of coming back to the throne. But I do not envy him on that account. It would only turn out to be a midsummer night’s dream.

In reciprocating your good wishes for the New Year,

I beg to remain, yours sincerely,

A. VAMBÉRY.

P.S.—Pray give my compliments to M. Chedo Mijatovich.[38] I am very glad that _Bog dal srecu yunacku_[39] to his countrymen.

Footnote 38:

The distinguished Servian historian and diplomatist, formerly Minister of Finance in Servia and Servian Minister in London, where he has since taken up his residence.

Footnote 39:

“God has given the good luck of heroes.”

VI

_February 11, 1913._

DEAR MR. WHITMAN,—I delayed answering your last letter as I was awaiting the arrival of the book you promised to send me. Now that your most interesting and fascinatingly written study on Germany[40] has arrived I hasten to express to you my best thanks for the pleasure I have derived from your book, as well as for your kind reference to my Essays on Sultan Abdul Hamid.[41]

In writing about leading contemporaries we are apt to get into a predicament, evidently not unfamiliar to you, which causes us a great deal of trouble. Those who know cannot write and those who write most do not know. At all events the personality of Abdul Hamid is a landmark in the history of the Osmanides which will be often spoken of.

The Persian poet whom I quote at the end of my article on Abdul Hamid is Saadi, and the quotation is derived from the “Gulistan.”

Yours sincerely,

A. VAMBÉRY.

Footnote 40:

“German Memories.” Wm. Heinemann.

Footnote 41:

_Nineteenth Century and After_, June and July 1909.

VII

_February 14, 1913._

DEAR MR. WHITMAN,—Don’t take it as a compliment, for it is a fact that during the three days that I was reading, with slight intervals of leisure, your “Deutsche Erinnerungen”[42] all my studies had to take an involuntary pause. Such an extraordinary influence has your masterly pen wrought upon me. I dare say no German would be able to write such a book upon England, although the subject would be most interesting from a national and ethical point of view, considering the liberal views predominating in England and the great achievements of your nation all over the world. I am glad to see that the unjustified enmity between your country and Germany is gradually subsiding. Both nations are supplementary the one to the other, and their mutual friendship furthers the common interests of humanity.

When will your “Turkish Memories” appear? I am anxious to read them.

Yours sincerely,

A. VAMBÉRY.

Footnote 42:

German version of my “German Memories”. Deutsche Verlagsanstalt, Stuttgart.

VIII

_February 20, 1913._

DEAR MR. WHITMAN,—It will give me much pleasure to go through any chapter of your “Turkish Memories” you may choose to send me. Of course one cannot apply a too severe criticism to a writer on Western affairs who is dealing with Eastern topics unless he is under the sway of preconceived notions like Pierre Loti, who, like Lamartine, dips his pen in Castalian fountains. And, besides, Abdul Hamid was to me the most incomprehensible Oriental character I have met in all my long and variegated Eastern career, and I could not vouch for the correctness of my judgment of him. There is one danger, however, you must take care not to fall into, _i.e._ unconditional Turcophilism. I mean to say you must avoid all sentiment in dealing with politics. Statesmen may have ignored the horrible effects of Turkish misrule and the ruin of the finest portion of Asia, but we writers, at any rate, are bound to speak the truth.

I am no admirer of Sir Edward Grey’s policy in the Near East, and still less in Central Asia, but I cannot refrain from calling the German policy haughty and overbearing. Her _Drang nach dem Osten_[43] is silly and childish and must provoke a most bloody contest all over the world. If Germany imitates Austrian methods she will be overtaken by a similar fate, for it is no secret that the sentence, _finis Austriæ_, is looming in the distance.

What I pity is my poor country, whose future is not very bright.

Yours sincerely,

A. VAMBÉRY.

Footnote 43:

A current German phrase meaning “The trend towards the East.”

IX

_February 21, 1913._

DEAR MR. WHITMAN,—I have gone through your manuscript with great pleasure, and all I can say is that indulgence, nobility of mind, gratitude, and gentlemanly feeling form the ruling features of the paper, whereas the manifold harm resulting from the personal idiosyncrasies of the Sultan is only occasionally touched upon.

From your point of view, and judging as a foreigner, you were quite right to use subdued colours, but having acted as a political writer who endeavoured and intended to turn the Sultan on the right way, I am sorry to say I could not follow your example. Nor could any modern Turk who had witnessed the ever-increasing calamity of his country do so. At all events your book will call forth much comment and varied criticism.

Yours sincerely,

A. VAMBÉRY.

X

_April 28, 1913._

DEAR MR. WHITMAN,—In reading your well-conceived and well-written book on the “Realm of the Habsburgs” I could not refrain from feeling regret at not having been blessed by nature with that rare gift of literary skill and eminence which distinguishes your pen. Having seen and experienced so much in many countries and in many nations, where I passed as a native, what attractive and truthful pictures could I not have furnished of my variegated experiences, and how considerably I could have facilitated the intercourse between man and man! Well, _non omnes omnia_—and writers like yourself, in whose works I delight, do sometimes darken the distant horizon of my past.

Your book, like the last one I read, is a masterpiece, in spite of the disadvantages resulting from the changes caused by the quick pace of our times, when so many features must obviously alter. It reminds me of an Oriental remark about a decayed beauty: “The mosque has fallen into ruins, but the altar where people worshipped still stands upright.” With some slight alterations your book could be advantageously republished. I am exceedingly sorry to be so far from dear old England, for, owing to this distance, many interesting items culled from my daily Turkish, Persian, and Tartar reading are lost to the public. Germany is not the place for practical Eastern topics: a long essay written on the slippers of Goethe is more appreciated there than a detailed description of recent political events in Turkey, Persia, etc. I was certainly not wrong in saying one day to a great German: “Hätte Deutschland weniger Orientalisten aber mehr Orientkenner gehabt, so brauchten sie heute Englands Stellung in Asien nicht mit neidischen Augen zu betrachten.”[44]

You are much younger than I am. Perhaps chance will favour me in seeing you one day in this part of the world.

Yours sincerely,

A. VAMBÉRY.

Footnote 44:

“If Germany had possessed fewer Orientalists and a greater number of true judges of the East, she need not have regarded England’s position in Asia with envious eyes to-day.”

I feel I cannot more fitly conclude my “Turkish Memories” than by citing the letter of Lieutenant-Colonel H. P. Picot, already referred to in the Preface:

“On reading the letter written to you on February 14, 1913, by Professor Vambéry, I was greatly interested to find him saying: ‘I am glad to see that the unjustified enmity between your country and Germany is gradually subsiding. Both nations are supplementary the one to the other, and their mutual friendship furthers the common interests of humanity.’

“The Professor, I see, agrees with you that ‘the real crux of Turkey’s political problems is, and always was, Russia’; and, further, that ‘the geographical position of Germany seems to set fixed limits to her ambitions.’ It was the realization of these factors by Turkish statesmen that gave Germany her opportunity during the later years of Abdul Hamid’s Sultanate. The welcome extended to the German Emperor by the Sultan at the time of his visit to Constantinople and the Holy Land was a direct invitation to Germany to interest herself in the development of the Asiatic provinces of Turkey, and thereby to build up a barrier against Russia in Armenia and Mesopotamia. The Sultan saw clearly that if German capital could be employed on a large scale in the development of railways between the capital and Bagdad, and in opening up the Mesopotamian delta by means of irrigation, etc., his country might obtain that political support which had become practically essential for the preservation of the integrity of his Asiatic dominions.

“The same view was doubtless held by Sir William White, H.B.M.’s Ambassador at Constantinople, who, years ago, was of opinion that, in the interests both of Great Britain and of Turkey, it would be well if Germany were encouraged to extend her influence at Constantinople and in the Balkans.

“Abdul Hamid naturally hoped for the political support of Germany in the Balkans as well as in his Asiatic possessions, though he must have been aware of the difficult position Germany, as a Christian Power, would find herself in should the Balkan States make an effort on a sufficiently wide scale to extend their frontiers at Turkey’s expense. In such a case, however, he had little or nothing to expect from Great Britain, and even less from Russia. Thus, Germany was a last hope; and though, as events have shown, her support was of little avail when the psychological moment arrived for the long-expected Balkan war, the Sultan’s political sagacity has yet to be proved at fault in so far as Asia Minor is concerned. Germany now possesses great interests in Anatolia and Mesopotamia, and if Turkey is ever to build up her Asiatic Empire and regain her position as a Moslem Power, it will only be done with the assistance and co-operation of Germany and Great Britain. It does not follow that because Germany failed Turkey in Europe, she will do so in Asia. The problem is a different one in that quarter, where it has lost its peculiarly European character. It may well be within the power, as it certainly is in the interest, of Great Britain and Germany to safeguard Turkey’s sovereign rights in her purely Asiatic possessions. Russia is the enemy at the gate.

“It is of happy augury that the bitterness of feeling that has separated Great Britain and Germany is now fast giving way to a better understanding, and it would be well that Turkish statesmen should realize early in the day that the future of their country depends on welding together, as far as it lies in their power to do so, the economic and political interests of these two countries in Asia. For Russia is already moving in the direction of Mesopotamia and Armenia: her occupation of Persian Azerbaijan, where she has concentrated 17,000 troops, is meant to serve her designs upon Mesopotamia, as the first étape of her advance towards the Persian Gulf.

“Russia has not yet forgotten the lessons of the Russo-Japanese war. If she scents obstacles ahead, she will hesitate to advance too rapidly on the path of adventure. But hesitation is not synonymous with withdrawal. Russia is still true to Gortschakoff’s famous phrase, ‘La Russie ne boude pas, elle se recueille.’ Turkey would be in less danger from her if she could enlist the sympathies and engage the material interests of Great Britain and Germany upon her side, as Abdul Hamid evidently considered that they might be enlisted in regard to his Asiatic dominions.

“As already stated in your own words, ‘the geographical position of Germany seems to set fixed limits to her ambitions’; and since Great Britain has no territorial ambitions in Asiatic Turkey—as it is recognized at last, even in Turkey—there is everything to be gained by their loyal and whole-hearted co-operation. But only on such lines.

(Signed) “H. P. PICOT.”

INDEX

Abdul Aziz, 20, 27, 163, 181, 234, 238, 258

Abdul Hamid, and the Marquis of Salisbury, 1; works of, 8, 51–54,164–166; and the Armenians, 20, 57; and the Germans, 22, 270; and Ahmed Midhat Effendi, 25, 26; popularity, 27–28, 180–182, 238–239, 243; and Dr. Hepworth, 60–61, 128–129; and Mr. Whitman, 30–35, 51, 61, 170; and the Press, 148–149; deposition, 150, 177–178; ceremony of the Selamlik, 154–158, 178–182; account of, 159–182; promise of Nicholas of Russia to, 162, 277 _and note_; personality, 166–167, 234, 237–238, 254–255; and Mr. Whittaker, 171; and Professor Vambéry, 171–172; audiences, 179–180; stories of his diplomacy,184; spies of, 201; and the Fehim Pasha incident, 264, 266–267, 270; mentioned in Professor Vambéry’s letters, 285, 286–287, 288–292; William II and, 294–295

Abdul Medjid, 261; reforms of, 229–230

Abraham Pasha, 19–20

Abyssinia, Christian monasteries of, 254

Adrianople, peace of, 1829, 106

Ahmed Midhat, account of, 25–28, 235–236; letter in Turkish to Mr. Whitman, 107–108; conversations with, 216–224, 225, 247, 257, 265; stories of Mohammed’s life told by, 258–260

Aintab in Syria, 63, 112, 114

Aja Sophia of Constantinople, 28, 87

Ala Dagh, the, 105

Alaskird, 97

Albanian Redifs, the, 45, 155

Albanians in Salonica, 40

Albigenses, the, 262

Albrecht, Archduke, 182

Alexander of Battenberg, Prince, and the Mohammedan element, 242

Alexander of Servia, 59

Alexandretta, 63, 81, 115–117

Alidjekrek affair of 1896, 97

Ambassadors in Constantinople, position of, 186–169; types, 189–193; social life, 193–194; Turkish, 194–195

American element in Erzeroum, 99–100; interest in Anatolia, 121 _and note_

Anatolia, the mission to, 60; reforms, 63, 70, 76, 79–81, 278; prosperity, 165; German interests, 295

Anatolian Railway, the, 268, 275 _and note_

Anatolius, General, 90

Anglicans, 228

Angora, prosperity of, 165

Arab types in Turkey, 233, 248

Aram Aramian, arrest, 97

Ararat, Mount, 109

Arians, the, 223

Armenak Dermonprejan, arrest, 97

Armenia, military service in, 75–76; people of, 118–119, 120 _and note_

“Armenian Atrocities,” rising of 1895–6, 70–79, 170; the outbreak in Constantinople, 10–35

Armenian Cemetery, Constantinople, 18

Armenian Committees, 13, 74, 127

Armenian schools, 63, 66, 75, 99, 127

Armenians in Turkey, 228, 231

Arms from Russia seized, 97

Arsenal (Tophanè), Constantinople, discovery of bombs, 24

Arson in Constantinople, 243–244

Ashmead-Bartlett, Sir Ellis, 48, 53–55

Aspern, 182

Asquith, Mr., and the Eucharistic procession in London, 213

Austria-Hungary, Turkish policy of, 275

Austrian Double Eagle March, the, 156–157

Avellis, Hugo, in Constantinople, 204–248; knowledge of Turkish character, 239–240; stories of Turkish women, 257–258

Azarian, Armenian banker, 20

Azerbaijan, 296

Bagdad Railway, 269, 277

Bahri Pasha, Governor-General of Van, fired on, 74

Baiburt, 85–86

Bajezid, Sultan, mosque of, 8

Balkan War, 295

Balls in Constantinople, 197–198

Baptists, 228

Batoum, 67

Bayazid, 105

Bazar de Secours, 52–53

Bebek, 169

Begler-Bey, Palace of, 139, 159

Beikos, 27, 257

Beilan, 116

Belgrade, 59

Belisarius, 183; sayings of, _quoted_, 160

Benedek, Field-Marshal, 182

Bennett, Mr. Gordon, 10–11, 15, 40, 57–59, 129

Bergholz, Mr. Leo, American Consul at Erzeroum, 99

Berlin, Congress of, 278

Bernhardi, General, 286

Beschiktasch, 142

Bieberstein, Baron Marschall von, 162; and Abdul Hamid, 177; and the Fehim Pasha incident, 264–247

Bigham, Clive, 48, 55

Birds, shooting of, 254–245

Biredschik, 63, 111–112

Bismarck, Prince, opinion on the Cretan situation, 1–2; the Sultan’s message to, 34–35; and Gortschakoff, 188; and Détaille’s picture, 215; diplomacy, 270–271, 272; on the position in the East, 279

Bitlis, 63, 77, 88, 91, 96, 120, 132; the road to, 101–110; report of the English Vice-Consul, 122–123

Black Sea, 65, 82

Blunt, Mr. J. P., 47–48

Bodenstedt, Friedrich, _quoted_, 277–278

Bombs, discovery in Constantinople, 24

Bosphorus, the, 92, 141, 278

Bournous, the, 113

Bribery, charges of, 80

Bucharest, diplomacy in, 189

Büchner, 237

Budapest, 285 (_note_)

Budapest University, 283

Bulgarians, Uniate, 228

Burton, Sir Richard, knowledge of the East, 224–225, 226

Buyukdere, massacre of Armenians at, 19–20

Byron, Lord, on Constantinople, _quoted_, 5

“Byzantinism,” 183

Capitulations, the, 201, 231

Caravans, starting point for, 67; on the Zigana Pass, 84–85

Carlyle and Islamism, 219–220

Cassim Pasha, suburb of, 8

Castries, Count de, “L’Islam,” 218

Catholics, Latin, 228

Censorship of the Press in Constantinople, evading the, 23–24, 171

Cercle d’Orient, Constantinople, 19, 195

Chadidja, 259

Chakir Pasha, Marshal, story of the watch, 70–6, 93–94; accounts of the Armenian rising, 77–79; and Reouf Pasha, 98

Chaldeans, Uniate, 228

Chalet Kiosk, 288

Charles, Archduke, 182

Chary, Hermann, Roumanian interpreter, 40–41, 48, 65, 117

Chefakat, Order of the, 165, 172

Christian Churches in Turkey, 28, 222–223

Christianity in Turkey, 119–123, 216–223, 226–230

Circassians, characteristics of the, 106–107; exodus of, 278

Club de Constantinople, 195

Colombo, Hôtel, Salonica, 37

Commerce, British Chamber of, at Constantinople, 190

Commercial code of 1850, 229

Commerell, Admiral, 226

Constantine the Great, 223, 254

Constantinople, impressions, 5–9; cavalry barracks, 7, 8; Fakir Hanè, 8; Greek High School, 8; Marine Hospital, 8; Marine Ministry, 8; Ters Hanè, 8; gossip in, 12–13; British Embassy, 17, 55–56; German Post Office, 21–22; Arsenal, 24; Aja Sophia, 28, 87; Gumysch Soujou Hospital, 30; outbreak of the war, 50–51; a return to, 127–128; water supply of, 165; diplomacy in, 186–195; cuisine of, 195–196; “high life” in, 196–198; the Passage Oriental, 206–207; Europeans in, 214–215, 240; fall of, 222; fire brigade of, 243–244; Bazaar, 247

Constantinople, Club de, 12, 195

Copts, 228

Corpus Christi, Feast of, in Constantinople, 213

Corruption and bribery in Turkey, 163–164

“Cospoli,” provincial name for Constantinople, 103

Costaki Pasha, 1

_Courrier de L’Est_, 149

Crete, Bismarck’s interest in the island, 1–2; the naval demonstration 1898, 276

Crimean War, 170, 230, 261

Criminal code of 1840, 229

Crispi, 271

Crusades, nature of the, 215–216, 219, 221–222

Cuinet _cited_, 120 (_note_)

Currie, Lady, 55–56

Currie, Sir Philip, 263; the protest to the Porte, 54–56; urges recall of Chakir Pasha, 71; telegram to Erzeroum, autumn 1895, 77

Dagmar, Empress, 71

_Daily Mail_ and the Fehim Pasha incident, 266–267

Damascene swords, 91

Damascus, 118

Dandolo, Enrico, 250

Danish Bey, 71

_Daphne_, Austrian-Lloyd steamer, 64

Dead, Turkish reverence for the, 8

Deliler, village of, 55

Demeter Mavrocordato Effendi, 71, 72

Détaille, M. Edouard, “Nos Vainqueurs,” 215

Deutsche Bank, Berlin, 142

_Deutsche Revue_, 287

Diarbekir, 63, 88, 91; history, 110–111

“Diary of an Idle Woman in Constantinople,” 253

Djahid, Husein, paper by, 287

Dogs of Constantinople, 17, 254

Dolma-Baghtchè, palace of, 139, 141

Doré, Gustave, illustrations of the Bible, 88

Dragoman Service, the, 189

Draper, and Islamism, 219–220

Druses, 228

Dufferin, Lord, 193

_Duilio_, the Italian ship, 37

Edhem Pasha, generalissimo of the Turkish forces, 43–44, 46, 48

Edward VII, 283

Egypt, irrigation, 280

Egyptians at Nisib, 112

Elassona, Turkish headquarters at, 40–48

Emerson, “English Traits,” 249

Emin Bey, story of, 166–167

England, Turkish policy, 22, 170, 272–274, 278–279

English governesses in Constantinople, 213

English settlement in Salonica, 39–40

Englishman, Turkish estimation of the, 261–262

Erzeroum, vilayet, 63 _and note_; Armenian rising, October 1895, 70–76; the journey to, 81; reception at, 88–90; history of the town, 90; Russian influence, 91–92; the American element in, 99–100; Russian occupation 1878, 278

Erzingian, 73

Etchmiadzin (Russia), 78

Ethnike Hetairia, the, 36 _and note_, 37

Eucharistic Congress in London, 213

Eugénie, Empress, 139

Eunuchs, 253–254

Euphrates, crossing the, 112

Europeans in Constantinople, 214–215, 240

Famine, 165

Fauna between Erzeroum and Bitlis, 102–103

“Fedaïs,” the, 75–76

Fehim Pasha, Chief of Secret Police, 177–178; scandal of, 263–267

Ferdinand, Austrian ex-Emperor, sayings of, 159–160

Ferid Pasha, 270

Ferrero, Guglielmo, sayings of, _quoted_, 234–235

Fire brigade in Constantinople, 243–244

Franco-German War 1870, 251

Franco-Italian War 1859, 182

Franz-Josef, present to the Bazar de Secours, 53

French Embassy in Constantinople, 50, 251

French language in Turkey, 275–276

Friedrichsruh, 2

Fuad, Grand Vizier, 177

Galata Bridge, the, 15–18, 21–22, 141, 244

Gautier, Théophile, on the Turk, 8

Gellini, Gentil, 250

“German Memories,” Prof. Vambéry’s remarks on, 289, 290

Germany and England, 293, 294

Germany and Turkey—Behaviour of Germans during the massacre, 21–22; German officers in Turkey, 48–49, 271–272, 285; German surgeons for the wounded, 51–52; Turkish policy of Germany, 169–170, 279, 290, 291, 293, 294; German influence in Turkey, 202, 214, 241, 264, 267–272, 274–277, 279, 295–296; German language in Turkey, 275–276

Ghazi Osman Pasha, 50–51, 155, 205; his office at Yildiz, 139, 177–178, 181

_Giaours_, 228, 249

Gladstone, the Rt. Hon. W. E., policy of, 169–170

Goethe _quoted_, 125, 268

Golden Horn, 6, 7, 8, 9 (_note_), 55

“Goldener Lamm,” Vienna, 4

Goltz, General von der, 285

Gordon, General, 40, 226

Görgey, 251

Gortschakoff, 188, 296

Græco-Turkish War, 35–56, 219, 271, 276

Grant, General, and Reouf Pasha, 94–95

Gratz, 182

Graves, Mr., British Consul at Erzeroum, opinion of, _quoted_, 93–94

Greece, incursions into Macedonia, 36; religious intolerance in, 213–214; Turks in, 251

Greek Committees, 2

Greek Orthodox Church, 20–21, 213–214

Greek Press, Bismarck and the, 2

Greeks in Constantinople, behaviour, 50–51; characteristics, 212; burial customs, 213–214, 241; Uniate, 228

Grey, Sir Edward, Eastern policy of, 291

Gritti, Andrea, 250

Gritti, Ludovico, 250

Grumbkow Pasha, 48

Gumysch Hanè, 83–8

Gumysch Soujou Hospital, Constantinople, 30

Gwynne, H. A., 55

Hafis Pasha, 112

Haidar Pasha, university at, 162

Haldane, Lord, 286

Halid Bey, 64

Hamid Pasha, 74

Hamidiè cavalry regiments, 73, 109, 145–155

Hamidiè Mosque, 156, 164, 178–179

“Hans,” 83, 86

Harem, the, 215, 256–257

_Harper’s Magazine_, 132

Hassan Bey, 258

Hassib Effendi, 71

Hatti-Humayoun of 1856, 230

Hatti-Sherif of Gulhanè, 229–230

Hatzfeldt, Count, 206

Hedjas Railway, 150, 277

Heine, “Buch der Lieder,” _quoted_, 151

Hepworth, Dr. George H., the expedition into Armenia, 58 _et seq._; “Through Armenia on Horseback,” 62; the journey to Erzeroum, 81, 89–90; the road to Bitlis, 101–102, 104, 105, 108; incidents of the journey, 113, 114, 115, 116; and Abdul Hamid, 128–129; letters to Mr. Whitman, 132–133

Hepworth, Mrs., 129

Herbert, Sir Michael, 263

Hobart Pasha, 226, 248

Holy Sepulchre, Turkish protection, 213, 215–216, 228

Horse, the Anatolian, 114–115

Hospital for the wounded at Yildiz, 51–52

Hugo, Victor, 26

Huguenin, M., 268–269

Huguenots, the, 217

Humboldt, Alexander von, observations of, on Constantinople, 5–6

Hungarian revolutionists, sheltered by the Sultan, 251

Hunger-typhus, 165

Hunuesch, 120

Hussein Avni Pasha, 258

Hyacinthe, Father, and Islamism, 219–220

Ibrahim Pasha, 112, 145, 152–154

Impérial, Hôtel, Salonica, 40

Imtiaz medal, the, 33, 51–52, 179

“Iradè,” the term, 144–145

Izzet Fuad Pasha, Turkish ambassador at Madrid, 177

Izzet Pasha, and Mr. Whitman, 30–35, 237; apartments at Yildiz, 140–145, 265; work of, 154; Arab origin 169 (_note_)

Jacobites, 228

Janissaries, the, 155, 180

Japan, German officers in, 272

Jerusalem, 94–95, 118, 213, 216, 256

Jews in Turkey, 21, 38–39, 92, 217, 221, 228, 249–250

Johnson, President Andrew, 26

_Journal de Salonique_, extract from, 41–42

Justinian, Emperor, 183, 254

Kaarie, or Kariè, Mosque, 28, 222–223

Kara Hissar Charki, mines of, 76

Kara Sua, source, 90

Karaferia, 42

Katerina, 42, 46

Kegel Club, Salonica, 37

Kerasoun, 66

Khalifate, the, claim of the Sultan, 148

Khinis, 77

Khrimyan, Monsignor, 78

Kighi, 96

Knackfuss, Professor, 53

Kop Dagh Pass, 86–88

Koran, precepts of the, 213, 217–223, 234–235, 254

Kossona, village of, 43

Kossuth, 251

Kotal Dagh, the, 66–67

Kurdistan, 63, 79; relations with Armenians, 74–75; rising of the autumn 1895, 77; mountain fastnesses of, 107; characteristics, 129–130

Kurds, arming of the, 73; Reouf Pasha and, 96–97; kindliness of, 107–109; marksmanship, 113; predatory propensities, 124; deputation to the Sultan, 145

Lamartine, 291

Larissa, 45, 55

Layard, Sir Henry, 193

Lazis, the, of Trebizond, 67

Lebanon, 223

Lessing, “Nathan the Wise,” 216–217

_Levant Herald_, and the censorship, 171

Levantine, the, 199–209

London, contrasts with the East, 130–132

Lorenz, Melchoir, 250

Loti, Pierre, 291

Louis XIV, 217

Lufti Aga, story of, 168–169

Lule-Burgas, 285

Macedonia, missionaries of, 121

Mahmoud, Sultan, 229–230, 248

Mahmud Nedim Pasha, 169

Mamuret ül Aziz, 63

Marienbad, 57

Maronites, 228

Mavrocordato Effendi, 79–80

Mavrocordato, Prince, 231

Mavrogeni, Dr., 206

Maximow, M., dragoman, 19

Maximow M., Consul-General, 90, 93, 147

Mazzini, 271

McColl, Canon, 22

Mecca, 65, 140–141

Medjediè, order of, 98, 154

Mehmet, Circassian officer, 40, 43, 48

Mehmet Izzet Bey, saying of, _quoted_, 15, 255–256

Mehmet Tscherkess, 45

_Mekteb Milkiè_, 164

Meluna Pass, the, 45

Mersey, Lord, 48

Mersina, 127

Mersina-Adana Railway, 269

Mesopotamia, 63, 295, 296

Methodists, 228

Metoualis, 228

Midhat Pasha, 26, 166

Migirditch, Armenian cook, 101–102

Mijatovich, M. Chedo, 289

Milan, ex-king, 59

Miles, Gen. Nelson, 53

Mining law, alterations, 273

Missionaries in Turkey, 38, 39, 120–121

Modiki, Kurds of, 124

Mohamed Cherif Reouf Pasha, 93–98, 104

Mohammed, life of, stories of, 125, 258–260

Mohammed V, 208

Mohammed Faté, Sultan, 250

Mohammedanism and Christianity, 82–83, 216–223, 228–230

Mollahs, 143–145

Moltke, Count von, and Turkey, 35, 112, 248

Monasteries, Christian, 82–83, 127, 222, 254

Montenegrins, struggle of 1876, 207; characteristics, 212

Montgomery, George R., 55

Mordtmann, Dr., 164–165

Moscow, fires of, 243

Möser, Justus, 237

Mosques, 222–223

Mosul, 110

Moutschka, River, 66

Muezzin, the, 145

Munir Pasha, Grand Master of Ceremonies, 60, 152, 180; letter to Mr. Whitman, 129; personality, 157–158; estimate of his master, 175–176

Murad Su, 101

Mustapha Pasha, railway station at, 262

_Namouma_, yacht, 57

Naples, 5

Napoleon, Code of, 229

Napoleon, saying of, 62, 226

Napoleon III, Abdul Hamid compared with, 161–162

National, Hôtel, Vienna, 4

Naturalization of Turkish subjects, 231

Neghib Bey, saying of, 246

Nelidow, M. de, 19, 278

Nestorians, Chaldean, 228

Nestorius, 223

_New York Herald_, the, 2, 10–11, 14, 23–25, 31, 34, 36, 41, 42, 43, 46, 57, 58, 60, 61, 129, 133 (_note_), 170

Nicæa, Council of, 223

Nicholas, Emperor, promise to Abdul Hamid, 162, 277 _and note_

_Nineteenth Century and After_, 286, 289 (_note_ 4)

Nisib, village of, 112

O’Conor, Sir Nicholas, 193; letter of, _quoted_, 272–273

Offenbach, Jacques, 157

Ohannes Effendi, 19

Olympus, Mount, 37, 43

_Orient (L’)_, 149

Ortogrul cavalry, 155

Osman Pasha, 95, 139

Osmanian, 18–19

Osmaniè order, 154

Ottoman Bank, the attack on the, 16–18, 23–24

Palestine, law in, 229

_Pall Mall Gazette_, 285

Pancaldi, 71

Paris Commune 1871, 256

Pascal, “Les Pensées” _quoted_, 161

Paskiewitsch, General, 86

Passage Oriental, Constantinople, 206–207

Passen, 97

Paul, Emperor, 32

Peel, W., 55

Pera, 15, 199, 200; the outbreak at, 17; discovery of bombs, 25; after the massacre, 29–30; water supply, 165; Grande Rue de Pera, 206–208, 257; population of, 212; the French Embassy, 251

Pera Palace Hotel, 6, 12, 177, 266

Phanariotes, 235, 270

Pharsalia, 45

Philippopolis, 23–24

Picot, Lieut.-Colonel H. P., 280; letter to Mr. Whitman, 294–297

“Pilaf,” 255

Platana, 67

Plevna, siege of, 205

Plumstead, naming of a street in, 283–284 and _note_

Police, Turkish, 201–202

_Policevera_, steamer, 50

Polygamy, 215

Pontine range, the, 85

Potsdam Guards, the, 271

Powers, the, proposals of 1895, 77; the Capitulations, 201, 231

Presbyterians, 228

Press, the, in Turkey, 148–149, 160, 188, 230–232, 251; evading the censorship, 23–24, 171

Prinkipo Islands, 20

Prior, Mr. Melton, 29

Procopius of Cæsarea, 183

Protestants in Turkey, 120–121, 228

Pruth, the, 164

Ramadan Festival, 149–150

Razi Khan, 74

“Realm of the Habsburgs,” by Mr. Sidney Whitman, 284, 292

Red Cross, the, 205

Redcliffe, Lord Stratford de, 56, 193, 261

Reformation, the English, 213

Religious toleration in Turkey, 216–222, 227–228; firman of 1854, 229–230

Revolvers at the Pera Palace Hotel, 17

Rhodes, Island of, 25, 127

Riedler, Professor, 248

Rifat Bey, 169

Roads, Persian, 80–81, 85, 101, 125, 128

Robert College on the Bosphorus, 226–227

Roberts, Lord, 286

Roman Catholic Armenians, 21

Rome, rites in communion with, 228

Roqueferrier, M., 93

Rothschild, London house of, 20

Roumania, King of, 272

Ruskin, saying of, _quoted_, 131

Rushti Bey, Colonel, 65, 107

Russia—Turkish policy of, 19, 127, 147, 232, 276–279, 296–297; revolutionary propaganda fomented by, 20–21, 24, 61, 75–76, 123; protest against German officers in Turkey, 49; influence in Erzeroum, 90–92, 97; the Czar’s promise to Abdul Hamid, 162, 277 _and note_; trade with Turkey, 165; religious toleration in, 229

Russian Cossack regiments, 73

Russo-Japanese War, 296

Russo-Turkish War, 44, 85–86, 164

Saadi, poet, 290

Sadjur, River, 114

Sadowa, battle of, 182

Saint Andrews, Cathedral of, 213

Saint Sophia, Church of, 250

Saladin, 114, 216–217, 233

Salisbury, Marquis of, 1, 170, 220 (_note_)

Salonica, Greek population, 37, 49–50; Jewish element, 38–39; English element, 39–40; outbreak of the war, 49; Turks in, 251

Salzburg, 5

Samsoun, 66

Saumur, 45

Schah-Zadè, Sultan, 8

Schiites, 233

Schismanian, Givon, 77

Schools, Armenian, 63, 66, 75, 99, 127; Turkish, 164–165, 275

Schopenhauer, 237

Schreyer, 114

Scott, Sir Walter, _quoted_, 49

Scutari, 257; the English cemetery, 165, 201–202

Sedan-chairs, 197

Selamlik, ceremony of the, 154–158, 164, 178–181, 253

Selim, Sultan, 8, 110, 111, 217, 233

Shamyl, submission of, 278

Shaw, Captain, 243

Shaw, G. B., 48

Shefket Pasha, Marshal, 51

Sheikh-ul-Islam, 52, 217, 233, 237–238

Sheikhs, 143–145

Shipka Pass, 71

Silver mines, 83–84

Sirry Bey, 64, 103–106, 113, 117, 172, 266–267

Sitaouk, 97

Sivas, 76

Smyrna, 22, 127

Smyrna-Aidin Railway, 273

Sobranje, the, Mohammedan members, 242

Softas, 145

Solferino, 182

Sorovitch, 41, 42

Spain—Religious intolerance in, 38, 217, 250; the Moors in, 220–221; generosity of the people, 248

Special Correspondent, Mr. Gordon Bennett’s ideas of his duties, 11–12

Spencer, Herbert, 237

Spinoza, 237

“Stambolin,” 25, 150, 176

Stamboul, the outbreak in, 15–17, 22; the Aja Sophia, 28, 87; the Sublime Porte, 141; fires in, 244; the public fountain, 261

Steevens, G. W., 55

Sublime Porte, the, 14, 141

Suleyman, Sultan, 8, 165, 250

Sultan, the, and the Khalifate, 225

Sunday, the Mohammedan, 27

Suwarie Tschaoush, 64

Sycosis, 117

Syrian horsemen, 113

Syrians, Uniate, 228

Szechenyi Pasha, Count, 243

Tahsim Pasha, 139

_Tanin_, the, 287

Tanzimat, the, 229–230

Tariff, Turkish, 280

Tauchnitz Collection of British Authors, 253

Taurus, the, 82–85, 88

“Tcharik,” 42

Tcheragan, Palace of, 139

“Temena,” ceremony of, 142–143

Tempè, vale of, 45

_Terdjumani Hakkikat_, the, 26

Tewfik Bey, Colonel, 64–65

Tewfik Pasha, 270

Theodora, Empress, 183

Theodosiopolis, 90

Theodosius the Younger, 90

Therapia, 263

Thessaly, alleged Turkish atrocities, 54–55

Tiflis, Armenians of, 78

Tigris, the, 101, 110

_Times_, the, correspondents in Turkey, 14, 18, 47–48, 171

Timur the Tartar, 114

Tophanè, Constantinople, 141

Transylvania, Saxon colony, 276

Trebizond, 63, 64, 81; description, 66–70; the troubles at, 74–76; Christian monasteries of, 82–83, 222

Tripoli, 214

Tschishly, 18

Tschoueh, Daniel, 76

Turanian type in Turkey, 233

Turk, the, traits, 210–260; love of family, 103–104; fidelity, 104–105; generosity and courtesy, 105–106, 240–242; respect for personal character, 206, 208–209, 246; absence of class distinctions, 235–237; gratitude, 246–248; hospitality, 248–249; love of animals, 254

Turkey—War on Greece, 36; religious tolerance in, 184, 212, 216–222, 227–230, 249–250; shelter given to Hungarian revolutionaries, 251; foreigners in, 252–253; German officers in Turkish army, 271–272

Turks, Orthodox, 228

Tussaud’s, Madame, 215 _and note_

Twain, Mark, 118

Ulemas, 143, 144, 145

United States, the Press in, 231

University at Haidar Pasha, 165

“Vali,” the term, 63 (_note_)

Valis, unpopularity of, 124

Valladolid, 250

Vambéry, Dr. Rustem, letter to Mr. Whitman, 283–284

Vambéry, Professor Arminius, experiences, 84; life and adventures, _quoted_, 89; stories of Abdul Hamid, 168–169, 171–172, 186; letters to Mr. Whitman, 211, 289–293; on the European situation, 279; a London street named after, 283, 284

Van, 63, 64, 65, 74, 78, 79; the rising in, 78–79

Van, Lake of, 72, 109–110

Vassos, Colonel, recall from Crete, 36

Venice, 57

Vereschagin, 205

Victoria, Queen, 283

Vienna, impressions, 3–5, 59; Central Post Office, 4, 5; Leopoldstadt, 4

Vienna Congress 1815, 4

“Vilayet,” the term, 63 (_note_)

Vincent, Sir Edgar, in Constantinople, 226

Voltaire, 237

Wagner, Reisen von Moritz, _quoted_, 86

Wallisch, Dr., 65

Waugh, Mr. Alexander, English Consul, 111

Weldon, Mr. Hamilton, 55

Westminster, Duke of, attitude towards Armenian atrocities, 22

White, Sir William, 193, 295

Whitman, Mrs., and the Turkish ladies, 258

Whittaker, Mr., 14, 171

Whittall, 15–16, 22–23, 242

William II and Abdul Hamid, 53, 162 (_note_), 261, 294–295

William III of England, 252

Woman, the Turkish, status, 165–166, 215, 256–258

Woods, Admiral Sir Henry, Pasha, 242–243

Xerias, River, 43

Yildiz, the Palace at, 14, 18, 19, 31–35, 51–52, 72–73, 128–129, 137–158, 176–177

Young Turk movement, 26, 124 (_note_), 287

Zeki Pasha, Marshal, 73

Zigana Pass, 84–85

Zola, _La Débâcle_, 124

PRINTED AT THE BALLANTYNE PRESS LONDON

Transcriber’s note:

○ Index entries showing abbreviated page ranges were written out in full. For example: “294–5” was changed to “294–295.”

○ The index entry for “Plumstead, naming of a street in” pointed to page 282, but there is no page 282. It has been corrected to page 283.

○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.

○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.

○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant form was found in this book.