CHAPTER XXIX.
And now, from this spot, I may be allowed to take a hasty, retrospective glance at the great WESTERN COUNTRY. It stretches from the Gulf of Mexico to the northern limits of the United States; and from the Alleghany, to the Rocky mountains--a distance of three thousand miles; showing a broad surface of earth, equal in extent to the Atlantic ocean itself. Between these bold and primitive barriers, a country is exhibited, every where bearing the marks of a secondary formation. The valleys, bluffs and hills--the regular lamina of stone, strata of marine shells,--and, indeed, all the physical aspects of the country, wear the appearance of once having been the bed of a vast lake, or an inland sea.
From this circumstance of its recent formation, and the large quantities of decomposed lime stone mixed with the soil, result another attribute of this valley--its character of uncommon fertility. It is not indeed every where alike fertile. There are here, as else where, infinite varieties of soil, from the richest alluvions, to the most sterile flint knobs--from the impervious cane brakes, to the sandy pine hills. There are, too, towards the Rocky mountains, large tracts that have a surface of sterile sands, or covered only with a scanty vegetation of weeds and coarse grass. But of the country in general, the most cursory observer must have remarked, that, compared with lands in other regions apparently of the same character, these show marks of singular fertility. The most ordinary oak lands, will bring successive crops of Indian corn and wheat, without manuring, and with but little care of cultivation. The pine lands, which appear so sterile to the eye, have in many places, produced good crops for years, without the aid of manure.
There is another remarkable trait in the soil of this valley--its power to support vegetation under the severest drought. It is a fact so notorious that it has become proverbial, that if there be moisture enough to make the corn germinate and come up, there will be a good crop, if no rain fall until harvest. The eastern emigrant witnesses with astonishment, the steady advance of his crop to vigorous maturity, under a pressure of drought, and a cloudless ardor of sun, that must have parched up the fields, and destroyed vegetation at the East.
The Alleghany mountains, which form the eastern boundary of this great valley, are composed of many ridges, which run parallel to each other with remarkable regularity. The middle ridge is generally the most elevated, and separates the waters of the Atlantic, from those that flow into the Mississippi. Soon after passing the summit of the principal mountains, the waters of the Ohio begin to be heard, as they dash along over a precipitous and rocky channel, seeking a spot to escape from the craggy hills, to the plains below.
After descending the last mountain ridge towards the valley, the country is still a succession of high hills, generally rounded smoothly down their sides, having more or less table land on their summits.--Those portions of Pennsylvania and Virginia, which belong to the Mississippi Valley; the eastern parts of Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee, are generally hilly, and sometimes even mountainous. In Alabama, the hills begin to subside. The features of the country too, begin, manifestly to change. The landscape wears a different aspect. Instead of the oaks, whitewood and sycamore, we begin to hear the breeze among the tops of long leaved pines.--A long succession of pine hills and fertile valleys succeed each other; the timber becoming less and less, until we meet the extensive prairies, or savannas of Florida.
Approaching the lakes, the country becomes quite level. At the northern sections of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, near the borders of the lakes, the surface, in some places, becomes so marshy and low, as to be covered, in winter and spring, with water from three or four inches to a foot in depth. The eastern part of Ohio is hilly, but the western portion sensibly becomes more and more level. The Ohio river originally rolled on in its whole course, through an unbroken forest; but as we approach the eastern boundary of Indiana, we begin to discover the first indications of prairie. In the western part of the State of Ohio, small and detached prairies are only found. In Indiana, the proportion of prairie is far greater, and in Illinois it far exceeds the timbered land. North of the State of Illinois, pine hills, ponds, marshes, woodland and prairie, alternate to the head waters of the Mississippi.
The surface of the country west of the Mississippi, is generally much more level than the valley east of it. There are bluffs to be sure, often high and precipitous, near the courses of the large rivers; and some portion of the country, near the Mississippi, is covered with flint knobs--singular hills of a conical shape, which, with a base of not more than a third of a mile in diameter, sometimes rise to the height of four or five hundred feet; and are covered with coarse gravel and flint stones. There are also, as in the country between the St. Francis and White rivers, high hills, which might well be called mountains. A spur of the Alleghany mountains, seems to come in to the Mississippi at the Chickasaw bluffs, and to be continued to the west of the river, in the St. Francis hills. But between the Mississippi and the Rocky mountains, a distance of twenty-five hundred miles, the general surface of the country is one vast plain, probably the largest on the face of the globe. Except the bluffs of the rivers, and flint knobs, the whole surface is entirely free from stones. On the lower courses of the Missouri, St. Francis, White, Arkansas and Red rivers, we find extensive bottoms of inexhaustible fertility covered with a dense forest; and occasionally a rich prairie, teeming with vegetation. But as we ascend these rivers, the timber becomes less and less, until, at last, we find the prairies coming in to the river banks. As the traveller recedes from the narrow and fertile belt on the streams, he finds the prairies becoming more and more dry and sterile--destitute of wood and water, and, sometimes, of all vegetation. He finds himself on a boundless waste of prairies; stretching out before him, far beyond the reach of vision; and here, he may wander for days, without finding either wood or water, and whichever way he may turn his eyes, he beholds an ocean of grass bounding the horizon. In advancing westward, he, at length, catches a glimpse of the Rocky mountains, pencilled like clouds on the blue arch of the sky. These mountains rise in lofty grandeur, twelve thousand feet above the grassy plains at their base; and some of the peaks, are supposed to be eighteen thousand feet above the level of the sea. They appear at a distance, to present an unbroken front, and to form an insuperable barrier between the Mississippi valley, and the shores of the Pacific ocean. On a nearer inspection, they are found to be, like the Alleghany mountains composed of a number of parallel ridges; and following up the streams, as they escape from the mountains, tolerable paths are found to cross them. A late traveller crossed these mountains, by following up the river Platte to its source; and from thence, down the stream that falls into Lake Bueneventura, on the western side. He states that the ascent was no where any greater than on the National road, over the Cumberland mountains. He even asserts, that the ascent was not more than three degrees; and that nature has provided a practical and good road, quite down to the plains of the Columbia.
These ranges of mountains cover a wide extent of country; and here, the principal rivers that fall into the Mississippi, have their sources. Some of these rivers wind three or four hundred miles among the mountains, before they find a passage to the plains below. The ranges at the sources of the Arkansas, and extending southward towards the Gulf of Mexico, bear the name of the Masserne mountains. A single peak of this ridge, seen at immense distances over the adjacent plains, rising into the blue atmosphere above the region of clouds, is called mount Pike. Near this mountain, the Colorado of the Pacific, the Rio del Norte of the Gulf of Mexico, the Yellow Stone of the Missouri, and the Arkansas and Red rivers of the Mississippi, have their sources. Mount Pike must therefore, be the highest point of land of this part of North America.
The Rocky mountains are at present too little known to be accurately and particularly described. They are hundreds of miles beyond the limits of cultivation, and the usual haunts of civilized man. They will for ages only attract the gaze and astonishment of wandering hunters, and adventurous travellers, who will thread the mazes of their deep gullies, as they pursue their journey to the western sea. Many of the ranges, and peaks are black, ragged and precipitous; and around their bases are strewn huge fragments of rock, detached by earthquakes and the hand of time. From this iron bound and precipitous character, they probably received the appellation of "Rocky mountains."
The general surface of the Mississippi Valley may be classed under three distinct heads--the dense forest, the barrens, or oak openings, and the prairies. In the first division, every traveller must have remarked, as soon as he descends to this valley, a grandeur in the form and size of the trees, a depth of verdure in the foliage, and a magnificent prodigality of growth, that distinguishes this, from every other country. The trees are large and straight, and rise aloft in stately columns, free from branches, to a great height. In the rich bottoms, they are generally wreathed with a drapery of ivy and grape vines; and these vines have sometimes trunks as large as the human body. Frequently, these forests are as free from any undergrowth as an orchard of apple trees. Sometimes the only shrub seen among the tall trees, is the beautiful pawpaw, with its splendid foliage and graceful stems. In the rich alluvions of the southern section, impenetrable cane brakes, tangles of brambles, and a rank growth of weeds, are often found beneath the forest trees; and their lofty branches are hung with large festoons of Spanish moss. These are the safe retreats of the bears, panthers, and other wild beasts of the forest.
Such forest trees only will be noted, as are not found in our northern climate. It may be proper to remark, that the white pine of New-England is only found in the upper section of the Mississippi valley--the pitch pine is found in various places on the high lands, throughout its whole extent; although not on the banks of the streams of water.
The cypress is seen on overflowed and swampy land from the mouth of the Ohio to the gulf of Mexico. It is strikingly singular in its appearance. Under its deep shade, arise a multitude of cone shaped posts, called 'cypress knees.' They are of various sizes and heights. The largest generally seen are about a foot in diameter at the bottom, two or three inches at the top, and six feet in height. The bark is smooth, and grows over the top end the same as at the sides. The ground, in a cypress swamp, looks as though tapering posts of all imaginable sizes had been set there at random; and are sometimes so thick that it is difficult to ride among them. It has been supposed that these knees are but the commencement of large trees, and there is some reason for this belief; for the tree itself has a buttress that looks exactly like an enlarged cypress knee. A full sized cypress is ten feet in diameter at the ground, but it tapers so rapidly that in ascending eight feet, it is not more than about two feet in diameter; from thence, it rises in a straight smooth column, eighty feet, without any apparent diminution of its size; it then branches off at once in all directions, and forms a level surface of foliage at the top. A forest of cypress looks like a scaffolding of deep green verdure suspended in the air.--The timber is clear of knots, easily wrought, durable, and is the most valuable timber tree in all the southern country.
The live oak is only found near the sea coast. It does not grow tall, but runs out into long lateral branches, looking like an immense spread umbrella. The leaf is small and evergreen. It bears an abundance of acorns, which are small, long and a good deal tapering at each end. Its timber is hard to cut, and will immediately sink in water.
The peccan is of beautiful form and appearance, and makes excellent timber for building and rails. It bears a round nut about an inch and a half long and half an inch in diameter. It excels all other nuts in the delicacy of its flavor.
The black locust is an excellent timber tree, and is much used in the building of steamboats. Its blossoms yield an exquisite perfume. The white locust is similar to that of the north.
The black walnut is a splendid tree and grows to a great size. It is much used in finishing houses and in cabinet furniture. It produces a nut very similar to the northern butternut; but the meat is not very palatable. The white walnut is also plenty, as are the various kinds of hickory.
The sycamore is the largest tree of the western forest. One of these trees near Marietta measures fifteen feet in diameter. Judge Tucker of Missouri fitted up a hollow section of a sycamore for an office.
The yellow poplar is a splendid tree and next in size to the sycamore. Its timber is very useful for building and rails. Its blossoms are gaudy bell-shaped cups, and the leaves are of beautiful forms. The cotton-wood is universally found in all the southern country below the mouth of the Ohio. It is a tree of the poplar class, and somewhat resembles the whitewood of the more northern regions. It is a large stately tree and sometimes measures twelve feet in diameter. One tree has been known to make more than a thousand rails. It derives its name from the circumstance, that when its blossoms fall, it scatters on the ground something much resembling, in feeling and appearance, short ginned cotton.
The catalpa is found in the region of the cotton-wood. It is remarkable for the great size of its deep green leaves, and its rounded tuft of beautiful blossoms of unequalled fragrance. Its seed is contained in a pod about two feet in length, much resembling a bean pod. As an ornamental tree it is unrivalled. In gracefulness of form, grandeur of its foliage, and rich, ambrosial fragrance of its blossom, it is incomparably superior to all the trees of the western world.
The magnolia has been much overrated, both as to the size of the tree and blossom also. It grows up tall and slim; the largest, about two feet in diameter; smooth whitish bark; and slightly resembling the northern beech. Its leaves are of a deep green, small and evergreen. Its blossom is of a pure white, much resembling, although twice the size, of a northern pond lilly. The fragrance is indeed powerful, but rather disagreeable.
There are half a dozen species of laurels; the most beautiful of which, is the laurel almond. It grows to the size of the pear tree; the leaves resemble those of the peach; its blossoms yield a most delicious perfume; and its foliage continues green all the year. It is found in the valley of the Red River.
There is a striking and beautiful tree found on the head waters of the Washita and in the interior of Arkansas, called bow-wood, from the circumstance that the Indians use it for bows. It bears a large fruit of most inviting appearance, much resembling a very large orange. But although beautiful to the eye, it is bitter to the taste. It has large and beautiful leaves, in form and appearance much like those of the orange, but much larger. The wood is yellow like fustic, and it produces a similar dye. It is hard, heavy and durable, and is supposed to be more incorruptible than live oak, mulberry, cypress, or cedar. Above the raft on Red River, the hulk of a steamboat has been built entirely of its timber.
The China tree is not a native of this country, but is much cultivated in the southern regions of the valley for ornament and shade. It has fine long spiked leaves, eight or ten inches in length, set in pairs on each side of a stem two feet long. In the flowering season, the tree is completely covered with blossoms. It bears a small reddish berry, which continues on the tree a long time after the leaves have fallen, and gives it, even then, an interesting appearance. It is a tree of more rapid growth than any known in this country.
The pawpaw is not only the most graceful and pleasing in appearance of all the wild fruit-bearing shrubs, but throws into the shade those cultivated by the hand of man. The leaves are long, of a rich green color, and much resemble the leaves of the tobacco plant. The stem is straight, white, and of unrivalled beauty. The fruit resembles the cucumber, but smoother and more pointed at the ends.--There are from two to five in a cluster; and when ripe are of a rich beautiful yellow. The fruit contains from two to six seeds, double the size of the tamarind. The pulp resembles egg custard. It has precisely the same feeling in the mouth, and unites the taste of eggs, cream, sugar, and spice. It is a natural custard; but too rich and highly seasoned to be much relished by most people. So many whimsical and unexpected tastes are compounded in the fruit, that a person of the most sober face, when he first tastes of it, unconsciously relaxes into a smile.
The persimon is found in Missouri, and in the region to the south of it. Its leaves resemble those of the wild cherry, and it grows about the size of the pear tree. The fruit is of the size of a common grape, in which are similar small seeds. It ripens about the middle of autumn. The fruit is of a yellowish purple color, and it is too sweet to be agreeable to many people.
In the middle regions, on some of the prairies, large tracts are covered with the crab-apple tree.--Their appearance is like the cultivated apple tree, although the fruit and the tree are much smaller.--It makes good cider and preserves, but is too tart to be eaten in its natural state.
The white and black mulberry are both found in the Mississippi valley, but the black is by far the most common. It has been satisfactorily proved, however, that the silk worm will thrive and produce well, upon the black mulberry.
Cane brake is seen on the banks of the Mississippi soon after you leave the mouth of the Ohio. It generally grows from fifteen to twenty feet in height; but in the rich bottoms near Natchez it sometimes attains the height of thirty feet. It is five years coming to maturity, and then produces an abundant crop of seed, on heads much resembling broom corn. It is an evergreen. The leaves are three or four inches long, but narrow and sharp pointed. It is much used for reeds and fishing rods. They grow so very thick that it is difficult for a man to make head way among them. When they are cut down and become dry, they burn freely.--The negroes have fine sport in burning them. The heat rarifies the air in the hollow between the joints and causes them to burst with a noise like a gun; so that when a large quantity of them are set on fire, the noise is like a continued discharge of musketry.
The "barrens" have a distinct and peculiar configuration. The surface is generally undulating with gentle hills--sometimes of a conical form, but generally, running in parallel ridges. The soil is of a clayey texture, of a reddish or greyish color, and is covered with tall coarse grass. The trees are neither large nor very small; and are scattered over the surface, at the distance of two or three rods from each other. They are chiefly of the different kinds of oaks, and from this circumstance, these barrens are, in many places, called "oak openings." The soil never exceeds second rate, and is often only third rate; but it will produce good crops of corn and wheat for many years, without the aid of manure. There are large tracts of this kind of land in Kentucky, Tennessee and Alabama. They are common in Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, Arkansas and Texas; and, indeed, they are seen with more or less frequency over a large portion of the Mississippi valley.
The 'pine barrens' are covered with a beautiful growth of long leaved pines. They run up tall, in a straight shaft, generally about two feet in diameter, and are excellent for timber. The surface is gently undulating; sometimes, approaching a dead level, and is covered with a scanty growth of weeds and grass. The soil is sandy, but sometimes slightly tinged with reddish clay. It is supposed to be weak and unproductive; but some of these 'barrens' have produced two or three good crops of grain, without being enriched by manure. Large districts of this kind of land are found in Alabama, Mississippi and Arkansas; and they are common in Florida, and in some sections of Louisiana and Texas.
The remaining, and by far the most extensive surface of the valley, is that of the prairies. Although they have not much diversity of aspect, yet they may be classed under three general heads--the alluvial, or wet, the bushy, and the dry prairies. The bushy prairies seem to be of an intermediate character between the alluvial prairies and the barrens. They have springs of water, covered with hazel and furzy bushes, small sassafras shrubs and grape vines. Acres of this shrubbery are sometimes found covered with the common hop vine. Prairies of this description are very common in Indiana, Illinois and Missouri; and they alternate among the other prairies, for some distance towards the Rocky mountains.
The wet prairies form the smallest division. They are generally found on the margin of streams; but sometimes, they occur, with all their distinctive features, far from the spot where waters now run. They are generally basins, as it regards the adjacent regions, and possess a deep, black soil of exhaustless fertility. They are the best soils for wheat and Indian corn; but, ordinarily, too tender and loamy for the cultivated grasses. In a native state, they are covered with grass and weeds of astonishing height and luxuriance. They are often higher than a man's head, when mounted on horse back. An exact account of the size and rankness of the weeds, flowering plants, and wild grass on the rich alluvial prairies of Illinois and Missouri, would appear to those who have never seen them, like an idle tale. Still more than the rolling prairies, they strike the eye as a dead level, but they generally have a slight inclination, sufficient to carry off the water.
The dry prairies are generally destitute of springs and bushes, but are covered with weeds, flowering plants and wild grass. The roundings of their undulations are so gentle, that to the eye, taking in a large surface at a single view, they appear as a dead level; but in travelling over them their undulations fully appear. The ravines and gullies occasionally found, fully indicate, that they have a sufficient inclination to communicate a quick motion to the waters, which fall upon them. This is by far the largest class of prairies in the western country. Prairies of this description are frequently found in Illinois; the largest of which, called "grand prairie," is a hundred miles in length, by fifty in breadth. They are often found in Indiana, Missouri and Texas; but they appear displayed on a magnificent scale, between the western border of the State of Missouri, and the Rocky mountains. Here, are the appropriate ranges for the buffalo, wild cattle and horses. Here are the plains, without wood or water, where the traveller may wander for days, and see the sun rise and set in an ocean of grass. Here he may travel, day after day, under a cloudless ardor of the sun, and not find a stream of water to slake his thirst, or a solitary tree for shelter and shade.
The general aspect of the Mississippi valley, in regard to woodland and prairies, may in a summary manner, be thus stated:--The surface, in a state of nature, from the Alleghany mountains to the western border of Ohio, is covered with a dense forest. Here, are the first indications of prairies. Proceeding westward through Indiana, Illinois and Missouri, the prairies become larger and more frequent, until at last, it becomes all prairie to the base of the Rocky mountains. It is a fact, beyond all question, that more than half of the great Mississippi valley is smooth prairie, entirely destitute of timber. Large portions of the valley will support a dense population, and become inhabited; but the larger prairies will remain uncultivated for ages. They are fit haunts only for the adventurous hunter, or the wandering shepherd.
During the season of vegetation, no adequate idea can be conveyed by description, of the number, forms, varieties, scents and hues of the flowering plants on the western prairies. The violet, and the more humble and modest kinds of flowers, which show their blossoms in early spring, not being able to compete with the rank grass and weeds around them, soon become choked and lost to the view; but the taller and more hardy kinds, successfully struggle for display, and rear their heads high enough to be seen. They have tall and arrowy stems, spiked or tassellated heads, and the blossoms are of great size, grandeur and splendor, but not much delicacy of fragrance. As the season advances, distinct successions of dominant hues prevail. In spring, the prevalent color of the prairie flowers, is bluish purple--in midsummer, red, slightly tinged with yellow--in autumn, yellow. At this season of the year, the flowers are very large, generally, of the sunflower form, and they are so profusely scattered over the prairies, as to present to the imagination an immense surface of gilding.
And this country of dense forests and rich prairies, is intersected with large and navigable rivers. These, alive as they are with their steamboats, keel and flat boats, afford great facilities for travelling, and for the transportation of merchandize and produce. The prairies and woodland also, present great facilities for travelling, and the transportation of goods. They are often, in a state of nature, so smooth, so gently undulating, and of such an unbroken surface, that carriages may run over them without interruption or delay.
Such are the general outlines and features of the great Mississippi valley; but a complete description would require volumes. Nature has laid off her work here, upon a magnificent scale, and finished it with a liberal hand. Its natural productions are rich and abundant. Its waters abound with fish--its soil teems with an exuberance of trees, plants and blossoms--rich mines lie emboweled beneath the surface--and wild game are profusely scattered over its prairies, woodland and rivers. To the husbandman, it presents itself in a more attractive aspect, than the granite hills and rocky soil of New-England. It has increased in population and wealth, incomparably greater than any other section of the world; and ere long, it will contain a majority of the population of the United States.
And now, it only remains, most respectfully to take leave of my readers. Those who have traced the TRIP TO THE WEST AND TEXAS through the foregoing pages, I hope, may have enjoyed all its pleasures, without incurring its attendant hardships and fatigue.
APPENDIX.
Territory of Michigan.
This Territory is bounded by the national boundary line on the east and north, by the Mississippi river on the west, and by the States of Illinois, Indiana and Ohio on the south. These boundaries include a vast extent of territory; but as that portion of it which lies to the north and west of Lake Michigan and the State of Illinois is for the most part a wilderness, having only some small settlements on Green Bay, the Milwake and Mississippi, my remarks will be confined to that part of it commonly called the peninsula, lying between lakes Erie and Michigan.
_Population._--This territory is estimated by good judges to contain between thirty-five and forty thousand inhabitants. The rapid and increasing tide of emigration into it, induces the belief that it will soon be admitted as a State into the Union. Its present and increasing importance may be in a great measure attributed to the enterprising, active and energetic talents of its late governor, Lewis Cass, the present Secretary of War. His personal exertions and enlightened policy, not only facilitated its settlement, but developed its vast and various resources. A large portion of its inhabitants are from New-York and the Eastern States, and are as active and industrious as those are in the sections of country from which they came. They make rapid improvements; and in a few years, the country will not be behind the flourishing State of Ohio, in farms and villages.
_Face of the Country._--That part immediately bordering on lakes Erie, St. Clair and Huron, and their connecting waters, is generally rather level and heavily timbered, but somewhat deficient in good water. In the interior, it becomes gently undulating, occasionally well timbered, and interspersed with oak openings, plains and prairies. The plains are frequently covered with such a regular, beautiful and thrifty growth of timber, so free from underbrush, as to wear the aspect of a cultivated forest. They are more easily improved than the heavy timbered land, and produce full as well. The openings are often rather deficient in timber, though they are not unfrequently skirted with plains, or contain patches of woodland, from which an ample supply may be obtained, not only for fuel, but for building, fencing and all other fanning purposes, if used with economy. They usually require but little, and sometimes no labor to prepare them for the plough; three or four yoke of cattle are found to be amply sufficient to break them up the first time, after which they are cultivated with nearly as much ease as old improved lands. They are found to be excellent for wheat, to improve by cultivation, and usually to produce a good crop of corn the first season.
The prairies generally support a heavy growth of grass--are free from timber, and may be divided into two classes. One is called dry, and the other is denominated wet prairies. The former possess a rich soil, are easily cultivated, and generally yield in rich abundance almost every kind of produce which might be expected to flourish in forty-two degrees north latitude, especially those on St. Joseph's river. And the latter often prove serviceable, not only in affording early pasture, but in supplying the emigrant with the means of wintering his cattle; and may with a little labor, frequently be made to yield an abundant supply of excellent hay. The interior of the territory is well watered with rivers, creeks and small lakes; many of which contain an unusual quantity of fish. There are several salt springs, which have not yet been tried nor improved, situated in different parts of the territory, all of which have been reserved by the United States; but it is not certain that any of them will prove very valuable. By boring a number of feet, the water would improve, and might, in some cases at least, not only justify the erection of extensive works for the manufacture of salt, but prove also a source of revenue to the United States, as well as afford to the manufacturer the means of accumulating wealth.
The surveyed part of the territory is laid out by the United States into townships of six miles square, which are divided into thirty-six sections or square miles, containing each six hundred and forty acres. These are subdivided, by imaginary lines, into quarter and half quarter sections; the latter of which contain each eighty acres, is the smallest quantity sold by the United States, and may, as well as the larger tracts, be selected by the purchaser. Though there is a small tract of land which proves rather unhealthy at the mouth of Huron, Saginaw and Rouge rivers, as well as at the mouth of Brownstown and Swan creeks, owing to the sluggishness of the water at the outlet of these streams, yet the climate of the surveyed part of the territory is mild, lying between forty-one degrees thirty-nine minutes, and forty-two degrees thirty-four minutes north latitude. The air is salubrious, and the water generally clear. The soil, which produces in rich abundance wheat rye, barley, oats, peas, beans, Indian corn, and potatoes, as well as all kinds of vegetables usually cultivated in the same latitude, consists of such a variety, that it cannot fail to suit the choice of almost every person in the pursuit of agriculture. Fruit, of course, has not yet been tested in the interior, for the want of time, except peaches, which do exceedingly well; but if I may be permitted to draw an inference, from the quality of the various kinds which grow in great abundance on the French plantations, along the margin of Detroit river, as well as on other parts of the great chain of navigable waters, then I presume I shall be allowed to say, that the soil of Michigan is equal, for the production of fruit, to that of any State in the Union. The pear trees along this river, which were planted in the early settlement by the French, are remarkably large, very tall, and extremely thrifty and beautiful, and bear a most delicious fruit, which generally sells from two to four shillings per bushel. Apples, at Detroit, vary from twelve to fifty cents, and may generally be procured by the bushel, for the latter price, even in winter. Cider, in the fall, is from one and a half to two dollars per barrel, for the juice. Currants, blackberries, black and red raspberries and cherries bring from three to four cents per quart; though the earliest of these, as well as whortle berries and strawberries, command sixpence. Plumbs are scarce, because they have not been generally cultivated, though they are likewise found to do well.
The price of unsold wild land is fixed and uniform, being one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre, the terms ready money, and the title indisputable, as it comes direct from the United States, under the seal of the President. The richest, most fertile, and perhaps more beautiful part of the territory, is generally thought to be adjacent to the St. Joseph's river and its various branches; which, from present appearances, bids fair to become speedily settled; settlements began to form on it a year before it was offered for sale. It only came in market in May, 1834, and such has been the influx of emigration to this part of the territory, that the Legislature in October last, formed twelve new counties, mostly thereon, and organized two of that number. This part of the territory possesses several copious mill streams, particularly Hog-creek, the Dowagiake, Christianna, Pigeon, Crooked and Portage rivers, a few of which have already been improved, by the erection of saw and grist mills. The climate of this part of the territory, though mild, is apparently more subject to wind than the valley of the Ohio river. The prevailing wind is the southwest; and as it crosses a large tract of prairie country in Illinois and Indiana, comes here with much force, and in winter is somewhat piercing. Considerable snow falls; nevertheless it is very favorable to wheat, rye, potatoes and turnips, and though not very adverse, yet not so congenial as the valley of the Ohio river, to southern corn and the more tender grains and esculents. Fruits, of course, have not yet been cultivated here, except a few apples and peaches, by the French which appear to do well.
The prairies in this quarter are of the richest soil, and may be ploughed in two days after the frost leaves the ground in the spring. They usually produce thirty or forty bushels of wheat to the acre; and from thirty to eighty of corn have been raised from the same quantity of ground, in all the prairies that have as yet been occupied: four hundred acres of corn were cultivated on Beardsley's prairie last year, which having been improved the year before averaged fifty bushels to the acre. These prairies not unfrequently produce thirty or forty bushels of corn to the acre, the first season, without being ploughed or hoed after planting.
The surveyed part of the territory is divided into three United States land districts, containing each one land office; one of which is at Detroit, one at Monroe and one at Bronson, in the county of Kalamazoo.
The rivers Grand, St. Joseph, Raisin, Huron, Clinton, Rouge, Kalamazoo and Shiawassee, interlocking in different parts of the territory, not only irrigate the country in a beautiful manner, but offer unparalleled inducements for canaling, and with comparatively but little expense, as there would be no mountains, nor probably rock strata to cut through. It is already in contemplation, by means of the Grand river and Clinton, or the St. Joseph's and Raisin, to open a water communication across the peninsula, by means of a canal, which would terminate at Detroit or Monroe; and probably at no distant period, it will not only be undertaken, but will be accomplished in such a manner as to accommodate both these places in this respect. A company was incorporated, by an act of the Legislature, last fall, under the title of the "Summit Portage Canal and Road Company," with a capital of ten thousand dollars, to be divided into one thousand shares of ten dollars each, for the purpose of cutting a canal west of Lake Michigan, to connect the Fox and Ouisconsin rivers at what is usually termed the Portage of the Ouisconsin, and to construct a turnpike road on said Portage, parallel to said canal; and also to construct another turnpike road from the lower extremity of the rapids of the Kaukauin, on the east side of the Fox river, on the most direct and eligible route to Winnebago lake, and for the erection of piers, wharves, warehouses and other public buildings and improvements, in and about said canal and turnpike, for commercial purposes.--Michigan extends at present west to the Mississippi river; but it is expected the territory will shortly be divided, and a new territory set off west of Lake Michigan; and organized by the name of Ouisconsin or Huron. The territory was originally owned and occupied by emigrants from France; consequently the old inhabitants or first settlers are mostly French.
WAYNE COUNTY--contains about seven thousand inhabitants, many of whom are French. Its seat of justice is Detroit. Hamtranck, Detroit and Springwells. These towns, which lie in the northeast part of the country, border on Detroit river, and are rather level, and but poorly supplied with water. The northern part of the two latter is somewhat broken by marsh and wet prairie; but near the centre of Springwells is a tract, containing some excellent arable land not yet entered, lying within from six to ten miles of Detroit, where a new settlement has recently been formed, and through which a road has lately been opened, leading from Detroit to Farmington. The towns of Pekin, Nankin and Plymouth are well supplied with water by the river Rouge and its various branches, which afford several eligible mill sites, and which have already been advantageously improved by the erection thereon of saw and grist mills. Pekin is heavily timbered with white and black ash, white and black oak, beech, maple and sugar tree. The land is rolling, and the soil rich and fertile, consisting of sand, loam and some clay. The northern and southern part of the town of Nankin has much the same appearance as Pekin, though the soil is more sandy, and requires less labor to cultivate it; yet it yields quite as well; but the middle is plains and openings, of an inferior quality and soil. Plymouth has likewise a similar appearance to Pekin, though the northern part is more rolling, yet even here the timber is the same, with the addition of black walnut; but the soil is generally of a superior quality.
_Huron._--This town is watered by a delightsome river, of the same name, whose waters are very transparent and abound with fish. It runs through the town diagonally, exhibiting in many places rich bottom lands, often bounded on one or both sides, by high sloping banks, and not unfrequently skirted with beautiful plains. Though a great proportion of this town is rather destitute of running streams, yet the soil in general is fertile, and for the most part easily cultivated. The eastern part is oak openings and plains of a good quality, interspersed with groves of heavy timber which often contain a small black ash swamp, and sometimes a wet or dry prairie; but the south part is heavily timbered with white and black ash, white oak, beech and maple, with occasionally a whitewood. The southwest corner is low land, and contains a large wet prairie.
_Brownstown_ is watered by the Huron river, Muddy and Brownstown creeks. The north-western part of this town is but poorly watered, and exhibits alternately oak openings, plains and prairies, occasionally interspersed with groves of heavy timber. The southeastern part is rather level and heavily timbered, except small tracts at the mouths of Huron river and Brownstown creek, which consist of prairies that are more or less inundated with water.
_Montguagon_ embraces Gross' Isle, and is situate on Detroit river. It is gently undulating, possesses a fine quarry of limestone, and a rich soil, supporting a thrifty and heavy growth of white oak, hickory, beech, maple, white and black ash.
MONROE COUNTY--contains a population of about four thousand, many of whom are French. There are three villages in this county, namely, Monroe, Frenchtown and Port Lawrence. The first of these, which is the seat of justice for the county, is a flourishing village, situate on the river Raisin, about six miles from lake Erie, and thirty-six from Detroit. The United States' turnpike, from the latter place to the Ohio State line, passes through it, and here was situated the bank of Monroe. It possesses an ample supply of water power for propelling hydraulic machinery, a part of which has already been converted to the use of saw and grist mills, as well as to the use of machines for carding and dressing cloth.
The United States have made a survey of Plaisance Bay harbor, at the mouth of the river, with a view of improving the same. Monroe is now the second village in the peninsula, as it regards population; and should they succeed in forming a good harbor at the mouth of the river, as it possesses water power, it may yet equal, if not rival Detroit. The county is generally well watered; the north-eastern part is rather level and heavily timbered; but the western and southern part is rolling land, alternately abounding in prairies, openings, or heavy groves of timber. The soil of this county is uniformly rich, and of a very superior quality.
WASHTENAW COUNTY--contains about four thousand inhabitants, who are, with a few exceptions, Americans. Its seat of justice is Ann Arbor, a village of five years' growth, situate on the river Huron, forty miles west of Detroit, containing about ninety dwelling houses. Ypsilanti, the second village in the county as to population, is likewise situate on the Huron, about ten miles below Ann Arbor, at the place where the United States' turnpike, from Detroit to Chicago, crosses it.
This county contains twelve mercantile establishments, three distilleries, one fanning mill factory, one oil factory, one gunsmith, one wagon maker, five flouring mills, thirteen saw mills, and two machines for carding and dressing cloth. It abounds in select and common schools, and contains many mechanics. Its surface is gently undulating and beautiful; and its soil prolific, consisting of a deep black sand, loam and some clay. It exhibits in succession, beautiful prairies, oak openings, and heavy groves of timber, consisting of white, red and black oak, beech, walnut, whitewood, bass, elm, maple and butternut, with almost all other kinds that usually grow in forty-two degrees north latitude, evergreen excepted. The river Huron, of lake Erie, meanders through the centre of it north and south; is navigable for boats and rafts to the lake, and with its several branches water the middle; the head waters of the Shiawassee the north, and the rivers Raisin and Saline and their branches, the south part of said county. It has numerous and extensive water privileges for facilitating manufactures.
MACOMB COUNTY--contains about two thousand five hundred inhabitants, a considerable number of whom are French. The north-eastern and eastern part of this county is in general rather level, and for the most part heavily timbered; yet it is sufficiently uneven to drain off and leave no stagnant waters; but the western part is rolling land, somewhat broken, being very hilly and uneven, and consisting of oak openings, plains, and some prairie land.
The plains are remarkably free from underbrush, and are, as well as the prairies and openings, very rich and fertile, producing not only wheat, but every other kind of grain in rich abundance. The Clinton river, together with its numerous tributaries, irrigate this county in a beautiful manner. It possesses advantages over many of the peninsular counties, on account of its proximity to the great chain of navigable waters. It fronts on lake St. Clair; and the river Clinton, which runs through the entire county, nearly in the centre, may easily be rendered navigable for batteaux, as high up as Rochester. And for the accomplishment of which a company has already been formed and were incorporated last fall by an act of the Legislature. This river is now navigable to Mt. Clemens, for vessels of considerable burthen; and when the obstructions at the mouth of the river are removed, for which object an application has been made to Congress for an appropriation, then any vessels or steamboats on the lake may come up to the village, a distance of six miles, by water.
This county is very well supplied with water power, it has now in operation seven saw mills, and two grist mills, and embraces four stores, three distilleries, two asheries, and six blacksmith shops. Its seat of justice is Mt. Clemens, a flourishing village situate on the Clinton river, at the place where the United States' road from Detroit to fort Gratiot crosses it. It lies four and a half miles from the lake, by land, and twenty northeastwardly from Detroit.
_Washington_ lies in the northwest corner of the county, and consists principally of oak openings and plains, though it has some prairie land. The openings and plains are extremely free from underbrush and prove to be excellent for the cultivation of wheat. The south part of the town is rolling land, exhibiting a rich, and for the most part a sandy soil, though it is sometimes composed of sand and loam intermixed; but the north part is what is commonly called broken land, being very hilly and uneven, and not unfrequently exhibits granitic boulders in great plenty.
_Shelby and Ray_ consist principally of gentle undulating and heavy timbered land, interspersed occasionally with oak openings. They are well watered and possess a very productive soil.
_Harrison_ is in general rather level, and the north part though somewhat swampy is susceptible of being converted into excellent meadow.
_Clinton_ possesses generally a rich soil, is heavily timbered and embraces a marsh or wet prairie of considerable extent on its eastern border adjacent to the lake shore, the greater part of which, however, if properly ditched, would prove to be good natural meadow. The northern part of the town is gently undulating and well supplied with water, of which the southern part is too deficient, being rather level.
OAKLAND COUNTY--contains about six thousand inhabitants, all Americans. It has three villages, each with a mill on its border, namely, Pontiac, Auburn and Rochester; the first of which is the seat of justice for the county, and is situated twenty-eight miles northwest of Detroit, on the Clinton river, where the United States' road from Detroit to Saginaw crosses it. This county presents a great variety of soil, and upon examination will be found to suit the choice of almost every person in the pursuit of agriculture. The rivers Clinton, Rouge and Huron, interlocking in different parts extend their many branches, and irrigate the county in a beautiful manner.
_Troy_ embraces townships one and two south in range eleven east, is situate in the southeast quarter of the county, and is principally timbered land; township two in this town is entirely of this description, is heavily wooded with black and white walnut, linden, white, red and black oak, and the westerly half is of that description usually denominated rolling timbered land, and in quality of soil, is not surpassed by any in the territory; but township one of that description called plains, interspersed with marshes, and is of an inferior quality.
_Bloomfield_ presents a variety of soil, which may be divided into three classes, oak openings, plains and timbered land. The country in the neighborhood of the lakes is oak openings, not so good for grass, but producing wheat in rich abundance--I would mention that two farmers in the vicinity of Wing lake, harvested one hundred and thirty acres of excellent wheat the last season. The north of Bloomfield is of this description, but the south part is timbered land.
_Pontiac_ is generally oak openings of a good quality, but inferior to the lands of Bloomfield.
_Oakland._--The south part of this town is timbered land with a rich soil, and the north part plains and openings of a good quality.
The town of Troy is watered by a branch of the Rouge, and the branches of Red river which empty into the Clinton. Bloomfield is watered by three branches of the Rouge, which, meandering through the county, enable every farmer to partake of their privileges. The towns of Pontiac and Oakland are watered by the Clinton river, Paint and Stony creeks and the extreme branches of the Huron. All these streams possess great privileges for hydraulic machinery. The towns of Pontiac and Oakland now contain twelve saw mills, four flouring mills, three fulling mills, three carding machines and one woollen factory. In Bloomfield are four saw mills and one grist mill. In Farmington two saw mills and one grist mill. Perhaps no country of like extent so level possesses more water power.
ST. CLAIR COUNTY--possesses great commercial advantages, as it lies on the great chain of navigable waters. It is bounded east by lake Huron and the river St. Clair, which separates it from Canada; south by lake St. Clair and the county of Macomb, west by the counties of Macomb and Lapeer, and north by Sanilac. Black, Pine and Belle rivers, Mill creek and their branches, as well as several smaller streams water this country. The first of these streams is navigable for vessels of considerable burthen, as far up as Mill creek; but Belle and Pine rivers are ascended only a very short distance in batteaux. This country is generally rather level, the eastern and southern part is gently undulating, rich, fertile and most heavily timbered, though there is occasionally some prairie land on the border of lake St. Clair, and along the southern margin of St. Clair river. The northern and western part of this country is comparatively of a light, and for the most part sandy soil, though tolerably productive, and interspersed with swamps and lowland. A great proportion of the timber in this quarter is pine, though it is often intermixed with hard wood and not unfrequently interspersed with groves of tamerack, in some instances with spruce, and often on the shore of lake Huron, with red and white cedar.
There are now in operation in this county, several of the most extensive saw mills in the territory, which are constantly engaged in manufacturing pine boards, planks, &c. and which, together with shingles, constitute at present the principal article of trade in the country. And as lumber may be conveyed from this county by water to any port, not only on the great lakes, but on their connecting waters, therefore the pine timber must ultimately become very valuable. Almost all the pine now used at Detroit for building, comes from this county, as it is the only one in the surveyed part of the territory that is well supplied with this valuable building material. The United States' road from Detroit to fort Gratiot runs through the centre of this county, and about twelve miles west of the village of Palmer, which is the seat of justice for the county; and which is situate at the junction of Pine and St. Clair rivers, about twelve miles south of fort Gratiot, and sixty by water northeast of Detroit.
ST. JOSEPH'S COUNTY--is perhaps the best in the territory, both as to water privileges and the fertility of its soil. It is watered by the St. Joseph's river and its various branches, many of which afford numerous water privileges, particularly Hog creek, Pigeon, Portage and Crooked rivers, which may be considered copious and excellent mill streams. A saw mill has already been put in operation on Crooked river, and several others have been commenced on the same creek and about Pigeon prairie. The water in this county is uniformly pure and healthy, the climate mild, and the face of the country moderately undulating; consisting principally of oak openings and prairies. There is however a sufficiency of timber in it generally, and from the Grand Traverse on the northwest side of the river St. Joseph's, as high up I believe as Portage river, is a belt of excellent timbered land which is well supplied with water. The principal prairies in this county are Sturges, Nottawa Sapee and White Pigeon. The first of these, Sturges prairie, has a beautiful appearance, and is exuberant in fertility, but is not convenient for water and but tolerably so to good timber--a few families are located on it. Nottawa Sapee, part of which is embraced within the Indian reserve, is an excellent prairie, and settlements have commenced on it. But Pigeon prairie is the most valuable one in the St. Joseph's country, as well as the most densely peopled, and perhaps it will not be deemed invidious to say it is the best settlement in the St. Joseph's country, whether we regard the number of its inhabitants or their intelligence and wealth. The soil of these prairies may be considered equal to that of any land in the United States. The usual mode of cultivating these, as well as all other prairies in the vicinity of the river St. Joseph's, is to break up the soil immediately with the plough at the same time dropping the corn on the edge of the furrow in such a manner that it may be covered by the succeeding one; in this manner without any other cultivation, they often produce thirty to fifty bushels of corn to the acre the first season, though sometimes it becomes necessary to go through and cut down some of the rankest weeds. The counties of Branch, Barry and Eaton, and all the country north of township four, north; west of the principal meridian, south of the county of Michilimackinac, and east of the line between ranges twelve and thirteen west, and of lake Michigan is attached to St. Joseph's.
CASS COUNTY---contains a population of two thousand, and is likewise watered by the St. Joseph's river and its branches, several of which afford good mill privileges, particularly the Dowagiake and Christianna, which are rapid and durable streams. A mill has already been erected and is now in operation on the Christianna, near Young's prairie.
The face of this county is similar to that of St. Joseph's county; though some parts are undulating, yet in general it is level, sufficiently uneven however to drain off and leave no stagnant waters. The timber is principally oak, ash, elm, sugar tree, cherry, black and white walnut and hickory, with a variety of other kinds intermixed. The country is generally open, and you can ride with a wheel carriage through the wood land with almost the same ease you can over the prairies, being not in the least interrupted with underbrush. In every part of the county the roads are good. Though some parts of it are but thinly timbered, yet along the Dowagiake from its source to its mouth there is a broad belt of excellent timbered and very rich land, from one to several miles wide, also along the upper portion of the Christianna, extending north of its source, and thence across to the Dowagiake is a fine belt of woodland. This county includes within its boundaries the following prairies, namely, Four Mile, Beardsley, Townsend's, McKenney's, La Grange, Pokagon and Young's, besides several small ones, not however known by any particular name. The prairies here are of the richest quality of soil; may be ploughed in two days after the frost leaves the ground in spring, and frequently produce thirty or forty bushels of corn to the acre the first season, without being ploughed or hoed after planting. The three last mentioned prairies are conveniently situate to mill streams, and principally surrounded with heavy timbered land, but they are nearly all taken up by purchasers. Four Mile prairie is not so happily situate with regard to mills or timbered land; but nevertheless is fast filling up. From thirty to eighty bushels of corn and forty of wheat are usually raised from an acre in all the prairies where the soil has been subdued by previous cultivation. Every other kind of grain as well as vegetables are produced in about the same proportion.
The only town yet laid out in this county is Edwardsburgh, which is the temporary county seat. It is situate on the border of Pleasant lake, and on the northeast corner of Beardsley's prairie. The United States' road from Detroit to Chicago passes through it, as well as the road from fort Wayne to Pokagon, to Niles', to Young's and to Townsend's prairies, and to Coquillard in Indiana. All these places except fort Wayne are situate within ten miles of it. From the town platte, or village, you have a view not only of the prairie, but also of Pleasant lake.--The prairie is four miles in extent and the lake covers about one hundred acres. Fish are abundant in all the streams and small lakes--forty three that would weigh from one to three pounds were caught with a hook and line in Pleasant lake by two persons in thirty minutes. The water in this lake is very pure, you can see the bottom where the depth of water is fifteen feet. The country is healthy, several large families who settled here before the land was offered for sale, and who have resided here for three years, have not had a case of fever nor any other kind of sickness, except what has resulted from accident.
The counties of Berrien and Van Buren and all the country north of the same to lake Michigan is attached at present to Cass county.
BERRIEN COUNTY, not organized, has in it a large proportion of superior timbered land, but has no prairies of much importance. The settlements in this county, though few, are scattered along the river, and the population does not exceed thirty-five families. But from the nature of the country, I am inclined to believe it will be the most populous county on the St. Joseph's.
The rich timbered land, though now avoided for the prairies, will ultimately be in demand, and will afford many dense and excellent settlements.--Through the timbered land in this county run several small creeks, which, with their numerous branches afford an additional convenience to the farmer which he cannot enjoy in the prairies nor in the barrens. Besides the heavy timbered and prairie land, there are large tracts of what are here called barrens, being of a light soil comparatively speaking, though very productive, and which are thinly covered with white and black oak, sometimes of stinted growth, but mostly of a handsome and useful size. The soil is generally a fine sand, mixed with decayed vegetables and sometimes gravelly, with here and there a granitic boulder. The soil of the timbered land is of a loose sandy nature, black with fertility, and eminently adapted to culture. That of the prairies is nearly of the same nature after the sod has been reduced by repeated ploughing. In the timbered land we find white and black walnut, several kinds of ash, also oak, poplar, lynn, beech, elm, hickory, sugar tree, &c. The southeast part of this county is well supplied with water, and possesses several mill sites, some of which have already been improved. Ford's saw and grist mill, on the Dowagiake, have been for some time in operation. There is also a saw mill just ready to commence operation at the mouth of the Dowagiake, and several others have been commenced on the same stream. There is but one village regularly laid out in this county, which is called Niles. It is situate on the St. Joseph's, a short distance above the confluence of the Dowagiake with that river. The first framed house in it was erected in December, 1833. Next summer it is expected there will be considerable building there. Last season, though there were no accommodations, yet by far the greatest portion of merchandize, &c. destined for the St. Joseph's country, when conveyed by water was landed there.--Next spring will be built two warehouses, there are now two stores and a post office. Post offices have been established at the mouth of the St. Joseph's called Saranac, at Pokagon, southwest corner of town six south in range sixteen west, at Lagrange in the middle of town six south of range fifteen west, at Pigeon prairie, at Sturgis' prairie, and at the Grand Traverse.
LAPEER, SHIAWASSEE AND SAGINAW.--These counties are not yet organized, but attached to Oakland county. There are no inhabitants in Lapeer, and but few settlers at present in Saginaw and Shiawassee. The face of these two counties is very similar to Oakland.
SAGINAW--is watered by the Shiawassee, Flint, Cass, Tittibawassee and Hare rivers. The most of these streams are navigable for boats; their junction forms the Saginaw river which is navigable for sloops twenty miles to the village which bears the same name, and which is to be the seat of justice for said county. The United States have established a cantonment here, and laid out a road from this place to Detroit, which is not yet finished. When this is completed, it is more than probable that it will settle as speedily as any county in the territory, as the soil is very favorable to agriculture.
SHIAWASSEE.--The soil of this county is rich, and the face of the country gently undulating, in some instances rolling, exhibiting oak openings and heavy groves of timber. The Shiawassee river which is a beautiful, meandering stream, and navigable for boats and rafts to the lake, with its several branches, waters the middle and southeast part. The head branches of Grand and Looking Glass rivers, the southwest part, and Swartz's creek, the Flint and Mistegayock rivers, the northeast part of said county.
CALHOUN.--This county has lately been organized and its seat of justice is the town of Marshall, pleasantly situated on the north bank of the Kalamazoo river. This river and its branches afford many fine mill privileges. The soil is rich and gently undulating, consisting principally of burr oak openings, which are frequently interspersed with prairies. In the southwest part of the county is a small tract of pine timber.
JACKSON--has lately been organized and its seat of justice is the town of Jackson, situated near Grand river. The west half of it is undulating, and consists principally of burr and white oak openings, interspersed occasionally with prairies. It abounds in springs and possesses a fertile soil. The northeast part is heavily timbered and somewhat intersected with marshes and small lakes. The soil, however, of this part, is rich and well adapted for meadow. Grand river is an excellent stream of pure water, quick, yet navigable for canoes from its junction with its south branch, quite through the county and to lake Michigan.
KALAMAZOO.--This is one of the newly organized counties. Its seat of justice is the town of Bronson, pleasantly situated on the south bank of the Kalamazoo river. The land office has lately been removed to this place from St. Joseph. The face of this county in general is moderately undulating, though sometimes rolling. It exhibits principally burr oak openings, interspersed with rich fertile and dry prairies, and not unfrequently intersected with groves of first rate timbered land. The character of the soil is in general either a black sand or a rich loam. In the southeast corner of this county is an excellent tract of woodland, covered with a heavy but beautiful grove of sugar maple. Gull and Round prairies are the two largest in this county, and are equal to any in the territory for beauty and fertility. The first of these, Gull prairie, is situate in the vicinity of a beautiful lake, as well as adjacent to the margin of a romantic creek, both of which bear the same name. This lake is about four miles long, and its waters which are very transparent are said to contain white fish. The creek is very rapid and affords hydraulic privileges equal to any in the territory. Prairie Round, which lies in the southwest part of the county, is about four miles broad, and is principally surrounded with woodland; near its centre there is a beautiful grove of timber of about a mile in diameter, consisting of sugar maple, black walnut and hickory. This county is well supplied with water. The Kalamazoo river which runs through it is a rapid meandering stream, yet navigable for boats. Its surface is frequently chequered with islands and its banks occasionally broken.
BRANCH.--This county is attached to St. Joseph's. A large portion of it, particularly the southern part, is heavily timbered land, consisting principally of black and white walnut, sugar maple, whitewood, lynn, and some other kinds in smaller quantities. The Chicago road which runs through the northern part of this county, passes principally through oak openings, which are occasionally intersected with prairies.
HILLSDALE.--This county is attached to Lenawee. The north part of it is principally oak openings of a good quality, but the southern part is heavily wooded with sugar maple, whitewood, beech, black walnut, ash, &c. The face of this county is rather uneven and the soil in general consists of a rich black loam. The southern part is timbered land. This county is well supplied with water. The St. Joseph's of lake Michigan, as well as the St. Joseph's of Maumee, the Grand river, Tiffin's and the river Raisin all head in this county, and with their numerous branches water it in a beautiful manner.
LEANEWEE COUNTY--contains at present about fifteen hundred inhabitants. The northern part of this county has much the same appearance as Washtenaw, but the southern part is principally timbered land. It contains a tamerack swamp of considerable extent in the southeast corner, yet notwithstanding, the character of its soil and climate is, generally, very inviting. It is principally watered by the Ottawa creek, Tiffin's and Raisin rivers and their branches. It contains two villages each with a mill on their borders, namely, Tecumseh and Adrian--the former of which is the seat of justice for the county. It is situate at the junction of Landman's creek with the river Raisin, and lies about fifty-five miles southwest of Detroit.
BARRY, EATON AND INGHAM COUNTIES--lie on Grand river and its tributaries. This is the largest river in the peninsula. It empties into lake Michigan, two hundred and forty-five miles south of Michilimackinac, and forty-five miles north of the mouth of St. Joseph, is sixty rods wide at its mouth, and has sufficient depth of water to admit vessels drawing eight feet. On its south bank, near its entrance into the lake, is a pleasant situation for a town, the land being excellent, and gently inclining to the north and west, giving at the same time a fine view of the river and lake; but the opposite shore at the same place has a sandy, sterile appearance.
For about sixty miles up this river, on the north side, the Ottawas hold possession. There are between eight and nine hundred of these people living along Grand river and its tributaries, but many of their most populous villages are on land now belonging to the United States.
This river is the largest stream that waters the west part of the peninsula of Michigan, being two hundred and seventy miles in length, its windings included, and navigable two hundred and forty miles for batteaux; receiving in its course a great number of tributary streams, among which are Portage, Red Cedar, Looking Glass, Soft Maple, Muscota, Flat, Rouge and Thorn Apple rivers. All of these, except the last named, put in on the right bank of the Grand river. Its south branch rises in the open country, near the source of the Raisin, and after pursuing a winding course of thirty miles, meets with the Portage river, which comes in from the east and intersects the above branch in town two south of range one west.
Portage river, which has its course through a chain of low marshy prairies, is a deep, muddy stream, about fifteen yards wide at its mouth. Its branches interlock with those of the Huron of lake Erie, and the Indians pass from the former into the latter, with their canoes, by crossing a portage of one mile and a half. It is probable that at no distant period, a canal will be constructed near the route of these two rivers, so as to afford a safe and easy inland communication between lakes Erie and Michigan. The distance from Detroit to the mouth of Grand river, by way of Michilimackinac, is five hundred and sixty miles. This route in the spring and fall is attended with much uncertainty; and, in case of a war with the English, the navigation of the straits of Detroit and St. Clair would be rendered doubly dangerous. These difficulties would be obviated by a communication by water, through the interior. The land at the Portage rises forty or fifty feet above the level of the streams on each side; but a level prairie two or three miles to the west of that place, is said to extend from one river to the other.
From the junction of the Portage and south branches, this river pursues a northwest course till it meets with Soft Maple river, in town seven north of range six west; receiving in that distance Red Cedar and Looking Glass rivers from the east, and Grindstone, Red and Sebewa creeks from the south and southwest.
Grindstone creek, so named from a sandstone ledge through which it runs, empties into the river about twenty miles below the mouth of the Portage branch. It is twenty miles long, affording several good sites for mills, and runs mostly through an open beautiful country; but is in some instances skirted with bottoms of heavy timbered land.
From the mouth of this creek to that of Looking Glass river, a distance of forty-five miles in a direct line, the Grand river runs through a tract of timbered land, which is several miles in extent on each side, abounding in creeks and springs of water, and bearing a growth of maple, basswood, cherry, oak, ash, whitewood, elm, black walnut, butternut, and some other kinds in lesser quantities. Below Looking Glass river, for forty or fifty miles, tracts of open land are found along the banks, but extensive forests immediately in the rear. The river bottoms are from a quarter of a mile to one mile in width, and the timbered lands are covered with a rank growth of rushes, (Equisetum hyemale) on which the Indians keep their horses during the winter. It is found that cattle and horses do better on these rushes, than when kept on hay; and it would seem from their abundance, that nature here intended them as a substitute for that article. The surface of the land after leaving the river bottoms is rolling; and it rises sufficiently high to give rapidity to the numerous creeks that so abundantly irrigate this part of the country.
Red Cedar river is thirty-five yards wide, and puts in about midway between Grindstone creek and Looking Glass river. It rises in Washtenaw and Shiawassee counties, and can be ascended in small boats twenty-five or thirty miles. A few miles below the mouth of this stream, is a ledge of sandstone, which forms a perpendicular wall of twenty-five or thirty feet in height, on each side of the river. This ledge consists of square blocks of stone, of a suitable size to be used in building, and which are rendered more valuable, from the circumstance of their being on the banks of a large navigable river, which with its tributaries, will facilitate its transportation to various sections of the territory.
A bed of iron ore has been discovered in the northeast bank of the river immediately below this ledge; and, indeed, many of the stones in the lower part of the ledge, have a great resemblance to blocks of cast iron--presenting a rusty surface, very dense, and when broken, have, in a striking degree, the color and appearance of iron itself.
Four miles above the mouth of the Looking Glass river, is the village of P'Shimnacon, (Apple land,) which is inhabited by eight or ten Ottawa families, who have a number of enclosed fields in which they raise corn, potatoes, and other vegetables usually cultivated by the Indians. The village receives its name from Pyrus Coronaria, (Crab Apple,) which grows in great abundance on the rich bottoms in its vicinity. Sebewa creek puts into the river on the southwest side, one mile above this village. It is about twenty miles long, sufficiently large for mills, and for the last four miles is very rapid, with a hard, stony bottom.
Looking Glass river which is about forty yards wide, rises in Shiawassee county, and can be ascended in canoes almost to its source. The country near this river, for fifteen miles above its mouth, is what may be termed first rate timbered land; but above that point it is of an inferior quality, more open, and abounding in tamerack swamps and wet prairies.
It is about eight miles by land from the mouth of Looking Glass to that of Soft Maple river, which is about sixty yards wide at its entrance into Grand river. It heads in Shiawassee and Saginaw counties, and runs nearly a due west course until it unites with Grand river, at the Indian village of Chigau-mish-kene. This village consists of twenty-five houses, and has a population of near two hundred souls under the noted chief Cocoose. Here is about one thousand acres of bottom land, of a deep, black soil, that has been cleared by the Indians; a part of which they still occupy as planting ground; but the land at this village, as well as that at P'Shimnacon, has been ceded to the United States, and will no doubt, in a short time, be occupied by an industrious white population. There is a large trail leading from this village, by way of Shiawassee to Detroit, a distance of one hundred and thirty miles.
The Grand river here changes its course; and with the exception of twelve miles in length, below Rouge river, runs nearly a west course to lake Michigan.
Two miles further down, is the entrance of Muscota river, (River of the Plains,) which comes in from the north, with a rapid current, and is about forty feet wide. The country through which it runs is but little known, as no lands have been surveyed north of Grand river, below Soft Maple.
It is eighteen miles by land from the mouth of Muscota to that of Co-cob-au-gwosh, or Flat river, with several considerable creeks putting into Grand river, on each side, in the intermediate distance. Ke-wa-goosh-cum's Indian village is situate immediately below the mouth of Flat river, and consists of sixteen lodges. It is supposed that the line between the United States and the Indian lands will intersect the Grand river near this place.
Flat river is a shallow stream, about eight rods wide; and in ascending has a general course of north by northeast. Of the country along this river, but little is at present known. It is reported, however, to be of a hilly, broken aspect; and many places near its source, to abound in lakes and swamps. There is a small lake that discharges its waters into this river, about sixty miles above its mouth, in which it is said by the Indians, that white fish are found in great numbers--a circumstance that is rendered more extraordinary, from the fact that this fish has never been seen near the mouth of Grand river, although it is often taken near the entrances of most of the other tributaries of lake Michigan.
It is ten miles from Flat to Thorn Apple river, which comes in from the south, and, with its numerous tributaries, waters a large extent of country. Its main branch rises in town two and three north of range three west, and after running a westerly course for more than forty miles, it takes a northward direction, in which it continues until it empties into Grand river, in the south part of town seven north of range two west.
There is a suitable proportion both of open and timber land along this stream, and a great part of each kind may be termed first rate. Two Indian villages are situated at the distance of twenty and twenty-six miles up this river, and another at its mouth, under the Ottawa chief Nong-gee. The last mentioned village is inhabited by twelve or fourteen families who are by far the most industrious and respectable band that reside in that part of the country.
Rouge river, is twenty miles, including the meanderings, northwest of Thorn Apple river. It is about forty miles long, rising near the sources of the Maskegon, and has its banks shaded by lofty forests of white pine. From this place to Muck-a-ta-sha's village, a distance of twelve miles, the Grand river pursues a south direction; after which it runs nearly a due west course to lake Michigan.
Six miles above the mouth of the last mentioned inlet, is a rapid of one mile in length, where the river, which is here fifty-two rods wide, is supposed to fall twenty-five feet. The banks at the head of the rapid, are not more than four feet above the level of the river, and they keep a horizontal level until you arrive at the foot of the rapid, where they are nearly thirty feet above the water; and consequently afford convenient opportunities for profitably appropriating a part of the river, by means of a canal or sluice, to the use of mills or machinery.
There is a missionary establishment, (the Thomas station) at this place, under the superintendence of the Rev. I. M'Coy. The mission family at present consists of a school teacher, a blacksmith, and two or three agriculturists. The school was open in the winter of 1827, and now has about thirty Indian children, who receive their board, clothing and tuition at the expense of the establishment.
There is a trail leading southwest from the rapids to the Kalamazoo river, and thence to the rivers Raisin and Huron. Another leads directly to the mouth of Thorn Apple river, a distance of only ten miles on the trail, but twenty-five round the curve of the river. The country within this bend, excepting immediately along the river, is of a rough, hilly character, a great part consisting of oak openings, of a barren appearance, with a few scattering groves of white pine. Most of the land, however, in the neighborhood of this tract, is of a good quality and timbered with all kinds that usually grow on rich alluvial soils.
There is a salt spring four miles below the rapids, which rises out of the ground about half a mile from the river on the east side. The water is said to be, both as to quantity and quality, sufficient to warrant the establishment of works for the manufacturing of that useful article. Near this place is also a bed of gypsum, of a fine quality, which will probably, in time, be of great importance to agriculturists in many of the western parts of Michigan.
Muck-a-ta-sha, or Blackskin's village, is six miles below the rapids, and is near the bend of the river, on an elevated prairie. There is also another village twenty miles lower down the river. From the rapids to the lake, a distance of thirty-six miles, the river is no where less than four feet deep. The current at the former place is too powerful to be ascended with loaded boats. The country along the river for the first fifteen or twenty miles above the lake is generally level, and in many instances swampy, with lofty forests, of various kinds of timber, and bearing an almost impenetrable thicket of undergrowth.
The country watered by the Grand river, consists of between six and seven thousand square miles; and considering its central position in the territory, the general fertility of the soil on the several branches of that stream, the convenience of a safe and good harbor at its mouth, together with its many other important natural advantages, we may be fully justified in the opinion, that it will, at no very distant period, become one of the most important sections of Michigan.
SKETCH OF THE TEXIAN REVOLUTION.
First Campaign.
As the inhabitants of Texas are chiefly emigrants from the United States, and have buckled on their armor in a contest for liberty and independence, it is natural that Americans should feel a strong sympathy in their behalf. The sons of freedom can never be indifferent and unconcerned, in a struggle between liberty and despotic power, however remote the theatre of action; but when such a war is waged by their neighbors and friends, and Freedom the prize to be lost or won, the deep feeling pervading American breasts, cannot be suppressed.
When Centralism was established, the State governments annihilated, and Santa Anna, by aid of the priests and the army, proclaimed himself monarch of Mexico, united Texas arose as one man, to oppose the usurpation. Although an infant of but yesterday, and but slightly armed for battle, yet she has a vigorous arm, and a heart that will never quail before the minions of despotic power. Relying upon the justice of her cause, and calling upon the friends of liberty for aid, she goes forth undismayed, to meet the giant strength of Mexico combined.--Her call for aid, has been heard throughout the Mississippi valley, and along the whole Atlantic coast, and has been fully answered. Soldiers, arms, ammunition and treasure have poured into Texas from all quarters; and in number and quantity, equal to the exigency of the case. Texas has gloriously triumphed. The invading foe has been completely routed--her first campaign is ended, and not a hostile band is found upon her soil.
In order to understand the situation of Texas, and the causes of the present civil war, it is necessary briefly to advert to the history of the Mexican Republic. It is well known, that the Province of Mexico had a long and severe struggle to throw off the Spanish yoke, and to become independent of Old Spain. At length, a constitution was formed, after the model of that of the United States, and a Republican government established. In 1824, Iturbide overthrew this Republican government, established an Empire, and placed himself at its head.--His reign was of but short duration. The army, under the lead and direction of three military chieftains, named Victoria, Bravo and Santa Anna, the very person who is now playing the game of Emperor, made a prisoner of Iturbide, banished him with an annuity of twenty-five thousand dollars, and restored the constitution. After passing a year in Europe, Iturbide returned to Mexico to recover his Empire, but was taken prisoner and shot.
The republic was continued with frequent commotions and revolutions. On one occasion Pedrassa, a civilian, was fairly elected President, in a contest with Gen. Guerrero. Guerrero denounced Pedrassa, placed himself at the head of the army, succeeded in expelling Pedrassa from the country, and was made President by the force of his bayonets. The people soon became discontented, insurrection spread over the country, Guerrero was in turn compelled to yield, and was finally taken prisoner, condemned and shot as a traitor. The succeeding faction of Bustamente was in turn put down, and after various commotions by contending factions, Santa Anna contrived, with the aid of the Army and Clergy to unite the interests of Church and State, and to place himself at the head of the government. The old constitution was annulled, and Santa Anna was acknowledged as Chief of a Central Government. The State Governments were merged in Centralism, and Santa Anna is to all intents and purposes Monarch of Mexico.
At this conjuncture of affairs, all the States and Territories submitted to the overwhelming power of the Dictator, but Texas. This province having been peopled by emigrants from the United States, by a people accustomed to free institutions,--revolted at the idea of despotism, and they nobly resolved not to come under the yoke, but to establish an independent Government of their own. This is a simple statement of the case, and their cause is one that is calculated to enlist the sympathies of the people of this country. Since the determination of the people of Texas has been known, it is understood that several other Mexican States have shown disaffection to the Central Government, and, judging from the vicissitudes of the past, it may be safely predicted, that in the course of another year or two, Santa Anna himself will be expelled, or shot, and the Constitution restored.
But lest the cause in which the Texians are now engaged, may not be fully understood, let us state a parallel case. Suppose that the President and Congress should abrogate the constitution of the United States, abolish all the State governments, and establish Romanism as the religion of the country: and if the governor of any State attempted to exercise any authority, send an armed force to arrest and imprison him. What would the people of the several States say to this? Would they tamely submit, as though they had no cause of complaint; or would they not rather, rise _en masse_, assert their rights, and put down these high-handed usurpers, at the point of the bayonet? Most assuredly they would.
Many of the States have been thrown into violent commotion, and even resorted to arms, for causes immeasurably less, than that of the Texians. The State of Maine were aroused to a man, because the British Government attempted to exercise jurisdiction over a strip of the wilderness and a few log houses, on her eastern border. The State of New-Hampshire called an army into the field, to support her doubtful title, to the unimportant settlement of Indian Stream. The State of Georgia rose to arms, because the Indians did not give up their lands, quite so soon as they expected. The States of Ohio and Michigan have long been in a feverish excitement, and have resorted to arms, on a simply legal question, which State shall exercise jurisdiction over a few thousand acres of land. And the people of the whole United States were thrown into a violent commotion, on the question, whether slavery should be tolerated in the State of Missouri.
And can it be thought strange by Americans, so jealous of their own rights, that the Texians are alarmed to see their constitution annulled, their State government subverted, and all the dearest rights which civilized man holds dear, put in jeopardy? Is it a matter of wonder, that they have appealed to arms, cast an anxious look to American freemen, and sent forth their spirit-stirring appeals for aid? To such an appeal, Americans cannot turn a deaf ear; nor will they stand with folded arms, and see the battle rage.
Under the constitution of 1824, Mexico was a confederated republic, after the model of the United States, having a President, Vice President, Senate and House of Representatives, as a central government, and separate governments for each State, and provincial governments for certain Territories, in all material respects similar to the institutions of this country.
Under this organization, Texas and Coahuila were formed into one State of the Mexican Confederacy; but as the one was settled by Americans, and the other by Spaniards, there never has been much harmony and good feeling between them. It has long been an object of strong desire among the people of Texas, to be disjoined from Coahuila, and formed into a separate State. To accomplish this desirable object, Col. Austin was appointed an agent to the Congress at Mexico, near the close of 1833. After spending some months at the seat of government, and making various efforts to have Texas formed into an integral State, separate from Coahuila, despairing of being able to accomplish it, in the then distracted state of affairs, he started to return home. He had not proceeded far, before he was arrested on a charge of high treason, carried back to Mexico, and imprisoned. For a time, he was kept in close confinement; and then, let out under bonds to keep within the limits of the city. He had been a prisoner more than a year, being unable to obtain either a trial or a release, when the government was subverted, and Centralism established.
Santa Anna, becoming alarmed at the public meetings, and show of opposition in Texas, concluded to release Col. Austin, and send him as a special messenger, to allay the excitement. He requested him to state to the Texians, that he felt deeply interested in their welfare; and that in the new organization of the government, he would use his influence to give to the people of Texas, such laws and regulations as were suited to their habits and situation.
Col. Austin faithfully delivered this message to the people of Texas, at a public dinner given to welcome his return, on the eighth of October last. But it was now too late to listen to the fair promises of Santa Anna. The country was in a state of extraordinary excitement, and on the eve of a revolution. Santa Anna, it seems, could threaten and punish, as well as conciliate and persuade. He arrested the Governor of Coahuila and Texas,--threatened an invasion--the confiscation and sale of a large tract of settled territory--and an imposition of heavy taxes upon the commerce of the country. The people of Texas aroused to the defence of their constitutional rights, and to resist oppression. They held to the constitution of 1824, and refused to adopt Centralism. Public meetings were held in all the principal towns and villages. At Columbia, Harrisburg, Velasco, Brazoria and San Felipe, resolutions were adopted, expressive of indignation at the proceedings of Santa Anna and the General Government, and of a determination to resist them. Committees of safety were appointed, and a general convention called. By the aid of Col. Austin and Gen. Houston of St. Augustine, forces were organized to repel the threatened invasion. Col. Austin by the assistance of others, raised a regiment of six or seven hundred riflemen; and Gen. Houston, by the aid of volunteers from the United States, was soon enabled to take the field, at the head of as many more.
Santa Anna, in the mean time, was not idle.--He concentrated his forces at Saltillo under the command of General Cos. After the army had become organized and in sufficient force, Gen. Cos marched to San Antonio, and took possession of the town. Another force was stationed at Goliad, sixty miles south of San Antonio.
To enforce the revenue laws, Santa Anna sent an armed schooner, called the Correo, under the command of Capt. Thompson, to the mouth of the Brazos river. This schooner, joined by a small armed sloop, attacked the schooner San Felipe, a regular trader between the Brazos and New-Orleans commanded by Capt. Hurd. This was about the first of September. It appears from a statement signed by the passengers of the San Felipe, that the Correo had fired at a steamboat while engaged in lighting the American brig Tremont, lying at anchor off the bar, previously to her attack on the San Felipe.
As soon as the steamboat had gone inside the bar, the Correo was joined by a small armed sloop, and both stood for the San Felipe, and opened fire upon her without ceremony, the moment they arrived within shot. But Captain Hurd, suspecting their intention to be of a hostile nature, from their first appearance, and having arms on board, gallantly gave battle and put them to flight, after a combat which lasted nearly an hour.
The next morning, the Correo was discovered about five miles distant, upon which she was chased by the San Felipe, (towed by the steamboat,) and overtaken and obliged to surrender.
The first battle fought on the land was on the second day of October 1835, near the town of Gonzales; and from this circumstance, it has obtained the enviable distinction, of being the Lexington of Texas. The circumstances attending the commencement of hostilities, ought to be stated with some minuteness.
Some years since, when Gonzales, the capital of De Witt's Colony, was exposed to the depredations of the Indians, the people there applied to the authorities of San Antonio for a piece of artillery to protect that frontier. The application was granted; and they obtained a brass six pounder. This was kept for defence until the settlement became strong--and afterwards it lay about the streets upon the ground, (unmounted) and served to make a noise whenever the people got into a merry frolic. The military commandant of San Antonio, (Col. Ugartechea,) two or three weeks previous, feeling sufficiently strong to make an attack upon the Colonies, demanded the gun. The people took the matter into consideration. The gun was once the property of the King of Spain; and he lost it with the sovereignty of the country. The Federal Republic of Mexico became the owner. The people of Gonzales returned for answer, in substance, that the gun was the property of the Confederation which they acknowledged, and not of the Central government, which they did not acknowledge; and they would not give it up to any officer of the Central Government.
Ugartechea ordered a detachment of his troops to march seventy-six miles, and take the gun by force. The colonies assembled to oppose him. Expresses were despatched to all parts of the country. The news flew with the speed of the race horse. The people rose to arms--and marched for the battle field.
Gonzales is situated on the eastern bank of the river Gaudaloupe, 150 miles west of San Felipe; and on the twentieth of September, the detachment of troops from San Antonio, about two hundred in number, made their appearance on the western bank of the river, opposite the town. They attempted the passage of the river, but after a sharp skirmish, were repulsed by eighteen men, the whole force then at Gonzales. The enemy retired a short distance, and encamped on the mound at De Witt's. On the first of October, about 12 o'clock, they took up their march and encamped about seven miles above this place, in a very strong position. Suspecting that their object in this movement was either to wait for a reinforcement from San Antonio, or to cross at the upper crossing, about fifteen miles above, it was determined to attack them before their plans could be carried into execution. Accordingly, on the same night, the whole force on foot, amounting then to about one hundred and sixty men, from the Gaudaloupe, Colorado, and La Baca, commanded by Col. J.H. Moore, crossed the river, attacked the enemy about day break, and put them to flight without the loss of a single man.--Thirty or forty of the enemy were reported to have been killed and wounded. This was a brilliant commencement of the Texian Revolutionary War.
The next, and more important battle, took place on the ninth of October, and resulted in the capture of the fort and town of Goliad. The attacking party were a company of volunteers, from the fertile banks of the Caney, and from the town of Matagorda--a place destined to become an important city, situated at the mouth of the Colorado river.
Before this party entered the field, most of the volunteers were at Gonzales--and fearing that the harvest of honors would be reaped before they could arrive there--they struck off from La Baca with the daring determination of taking Goliad by surprise.
Goliad is situated on the southwest side of the San Antonio river, thirty leagues below Bexar, and it is fifteen leagues from Copano, the landing place of Aransas bay, and about the same distance from the La Baca and of Matagorda bay. The fort is built upon the point of a very steep hill, formed of rocks, with a deep ravine upon one side and a low prairie upon the opposite--while a broad elevated prairie extends towards the southwest.
The walls of the fort are of stone and lime, and bear in many places the marks of the storms of an hundred winters, but are still proof against any thing less than the batterings of heavy artillery.
A long forced march brought the van guard of the colonists to the San Antonio river ford, below the town, at 11 o'clock on the night of the ninth of October. Here they halted for the main body, and to make arrangements for the attack. A very small party were sent into the town, and they brought out, with the utmost secrecy, a worthy citizen friendly to the constitution of 1824. And by his assistance guides were produced perfectly acquainted with the place.
The main body of the colonists missed their road in the night, and before they found out their mistake, were at the upper ford, immediately opposite the town. They then struck across, for a short cut, to the position occupied by the van guard. The route lay through a muskeet thicket. The muskeet is a tree of the locust family, full of thorns, and at a short distance resembles the common peach tree in size and appearance. While the parties were treading their way in this thicket, the horse of one of them started in affright at an object beneath a bush. The rider checked his horse and said, who's there? A voice answered in Spanish. One of the party supposed that he recognized in the voice an old acquaintance of Goliad, asked if it was not he, mentioning his name. "No," was the reply, "my name is Milam."
Col. Milam is a native of Kentucky. At the commencement of the Mexican war of independence, he engaged in the cause, and assisted in establishing the independence of the country. When Iturbide assumed the purple, Milam's republican principles placed him in fetters--dragged him to the city of Mexico, and confined him in prison until the usurper was dethroned. When Santa Anna assumed the dictatorship, the republican Milam was again thrust into the prison at Monterry. But his past services and sufferings wrought upon the sympathies of his hard-hearted jailors.
They allowed him the luxury of the bath. He profited by the indulgence and made arrangements with an old compatriot, to place a fleet horse suitably equipped upon the bank of the stream, at a time appointed. The colonel passed the sentinel as he was wont to go into the water--walked quietly on--mounted the horse and fled.
Four hundred miles would place him in safety. The noble horse did his duty, and bore the colonel clear of all pursuit to the place where the party surprised him. At first he supposed himself in the power of his enemy--but the English language soon convinced him, that he was in the midst of his countrymen.
He had never heard that Texas was making an effort to save herself. No whisper of the kind had been allowed to pass the grates of his prison.--When he learned the object of the party, his heart was full. He could not speak for joy.
When the company arrived at the lower ford, they divided themselves into four parties of twelve men each. One party remained as a guard with the horses. The other three, each with a guide, marched by different routes to the assault.
Their axes hewed down the door where the colonel commanding the place slept--and he was taken a prisoner from his bed. A sentinel hailed, and fired. A rifle ball laid him dead upon the spot.--The discharge of fire arms and the noise of human voices now became blended. The Mexican soldiers fired from their quarters, and the blaze of their guns served as targets for the colonist riflemen.
The garrison were called to surrender, and the call was translated by a gentleman present, who spoke the language. They asked for terms.
The interpreter now became the chief speaker. 'No,' answered he. 'They say they will massacre every one of you, unless you come out immediately and surrender. Come out--come out quick--I cannot keep them back--come out, if you wish to save your lives--I can keep them back no longer.' 'O, do for God's sake keep them back,' answered the Mexicans in their own language. 'We will come out and surrender immediately,'--and they rushed out with all possible speed and laid down their arms.
And thus was the fort of Goliad taken--a fort which, with a garrison of three hundred and fifty patriots in the war of 1812-13, withstood the siege of an army of more than two thousand Spanish troops, and forced them to retire, discomfited.
At the capture of the fort, three Mexican soldiers were killed and seven wounded; and one colonel, one captain, one lieutenant, with twenty-one petty officers and privates were made prisoners--others of the garrison escaped in the dark and fled.
In the fort were found two pieces of brass cannon, five hundred muskets and carbines, six hundred spears, with ammunition and provisions.
One of the colonists, only, was wounded in the shoulder.
Col. Milam assisted in the capture of the fort, and then he spoke:--"I assisted Mexico to gain her independence; I have spent more than twenty years of my life in her service; I have endured heat and cold, hunger and thirst; I have borne losses and suffered persecutions; I have been a tenant of every prison between this and Mexico--but the events of this night have compensated me for all my losses and all my sufferings."
The colonists were commanded by Gen. M. Collingsworth--but it would be difficult to find in the company, a man not qualified for the command.
Goliad is of vastly more importance in a military point of view, than San Antonio, as the latter is in a valley upon the banks of the river, and commanded by the hills on each side, and is therefore indefensible.
The news of the capture of Goliad was hailed with enthusiastic joy throughout Texas. A general enthusiasm prevailed. Col. Austin, elected General of the volunteer forces, made his head quarters at Gonzales, one hundred and fifty miles west of San Felipe, and seventy-five miles east of San Antonio. A declaration of rights under the constitution of 1824 was published, and circulated throughout the country.
On the thirteenth of October, Gen. Austin, as commander-in-chief, left Gonzales with the main army, for San Antonio. On the twentieth, a division arrived at Salada, within five miles of San Antonio. On their march, they came in contact with the advanced guard of the enemy, who retired at their approach. On the twenty-seventh, a detachment of Gen. Cos' cavalry, out on a foraging expedition, were attacked by a party of Texians, and by them defeated with the loss of thirty-five horses, and suffering in killed and wounded to the number of fifty men. The loss of the Texians, three men slightly wounded.
Cos' detachment of cavalry consisted of about one hundred and fifty men, which, before the engagement was concluded, were re-inforced by one hundred and fifty infantry; the party of Texians employed in the assault amounting to about the same number.
On the twenty-eighth, a detachment of ninety men, under the command of Col. Jas. Bowie and Capt. Fanning, advanced and took possession of a church, within a mile and a half of San Antonio. The Mexicans to the number of three hundred cavalry and one hundred infantry, under the command of Col. Utartacher, sallying out from the city, made an attack upon Bowie's forces, and after an engagement of three hours duration, were repulsed with the loss of one piece of artillery and forty muskets, leaving eighteen men dead upon the field. The only loss on the side of the Texians, was one man mortally wounded, and a few horses. The main body of the army came up soon after the enemy had retired.
Gen. Austin, that there might be no mistake respecting the principles upon which he acted, sent a communication to Gen. Cos, by a Mexican, stating that he was supporting the principles of the constitution of 1824, and inquiring how his flag would be received? His reply was, "disband your forces, return home peaceably, and then perhaps I will listen to your petitions; at present I can only regard you as rebels and traitors."
In the mean time, something like a regular army, composed of Texians and volunteer companies from the United States, was organized, and Gen. Houston, formerly Governor of Tennessee, and for some years a resident in Texas, was appointed the commander. On his arrival at Gonzales, the force under his command amounted to about a thousand men.
The Texian army, at length, concentrated their forces, and besieged the town of San Antonio.--This is a walled town, containing three thousand five hundred inhabitants. Gen. Cos found himself in a critical situation. His army amounted to about a thousand men, but the besieging army pressed him so close, he was obliged to keep within the walls of the town. He soon became in want of provisions, but he was too closely watched to obtain a supply. The besiegers believing he would be forced to surrender without a battle, concluded patiently to wait the event.
In this state of the case, it was thought advisable to send commissioners to the United States, with plenary power to negotiate loans, &c., in preparation for another campaign. Gen. Austin and Messrs. Archer and Wharton were accordingly appointed. Edward Burlisson was elected to fill the vacancy occasioned by the resignation of Gen. Austin, and W.H. Jack was promoted to the second in command.
The commissioners immediately left the army, and proceeded to the United States. They arrived at New-Orleans on the third day of January, and succeeded in effecting a loan there of two hundred thousand dollars. They then started up the Mississippi river, intending to visit the seat of government at Washington.
The Texian army besieged San Antonio more than a month; during which time, the Mexican forces were confined strictly within the walls of the city. The moment a sentinel ventured without, he was shot by some of the riflemen. The garrison became almost destitute of provisions, and the surrender of the place was anticipated daily.
At this juncture, news arrived, that a large reinforcement of Mexican troops were near at hand, to relieve the garrison. This determined the besieging army to storm the city immediately. It was on the sixth day of December last, when the assault commenced. The brave Col. Milam, at the head of three hundred choice troops, led the attack.--The assault was so sudden and vehement, that neither walls nor men could successfully oppose it. After a sharp conflict, in which the assailants performed wonders, the city was gallantly taken, and the garrison made prisoners. This had hardly been accomplished, when the Mexican reinforcement came up, just in time to lay down their arms to the victors. By this victory, twelve hundred men were made prisoners; and the Texians obtained two thousand stands of arms, thirty pieces of cannon, and a large amount of military stores, camp-equipments and horses, estimated to be worth five hundred thousand dollars. The loss of the enemy in killed and wounded, we have never seen stated;--on the part of the Texians, fifteen were wounded, and the brave Col. Milam and four others, killed. Col. Milam was mainly instrumental in the complete success of the assault, and fell a victim to his own zeal and intrepidity. The death of this estimable man, turned the joy of victory into sadness. Like the lamented Warren of Bunker Hill, he fell early in his country's struggle for independence;--and like him, his untimely exit was deeply deplored.
A native of Kentucky, he possessed in an eminent degree, the chivalry and noble bearing, so conspicuous in the land of his birth. In early life, he left his native State. He was the intrepid commander of the steamboat, that first threaded the mazes of Red river, beyond the great raft. At the commencement of the severe contest in Mexico, to throw off the Spanish yoke, he was engaged in her cause. In the many sanguinary battles with the armies of Spain and savage Indians, during that long and bloody war, he was engaged, and shone conspicuous. A noble spirited and an unyielding patriot himself, he found at last, to his sorrow and regret, that the people, whom he aided to establish independence, were unworthy of the cause in which they were engaged. They did not understand the true principles of liberty, and knew not the value of its blessings. No sooner were they freed from foreign oppression, than anarchy and confusion reigned at home. Revolutions and counter-revolutions rapidly succeeded each other; and the unyielding Milam, alternately became a favorite and a prisoner. He had so many times been arrested and released, that he had been a tenant of every prison, from Texas to the city of Mexico. When restored to favor, by a fortunate turn of the revolutionary wheel, rewards were offered him. But his sufferings only were real; his rewards but mocked his vision. Like the rainbow in the heavens, they fled at his approach.
Years ago, he obtained a grant for a colony, on the south bank of the beautiful Colorado, a hundred miles from its mouth; but before he could make arrangements for its settlement, the grant was annulled, and he imprisoned. Misfortune seems to have marked him for her game. For a series of years, as if the intention were to mock and tantalize him, his grant would be alternately cancelled and confirmed.
Near the close of the year 1834, when the writer of this sketch saw him in Texas, his grant had been renewed under favorable auspices, and the prospect before him appeared unusually flattering. But it was only the calm, bright sunshine, that precedes the tempest. He had hardly made arrangements to people his colony, and settle down in quiet repose, after so many years of disappointment, toil and suffering, when another revolution brought Santa Anna into power, and the patriot Milam was again arrested and thrust into the prison of Monterry!
But in all the changes of fortune, whether favorable or adverse, he never abjured his principles.--The unconquerable love of liberty, that animated him throughout his whole career, never once forsook him. His spirit never quailed before the minions of power--his courage never abated--and his vigorous arm never tired.
By stratagem, he escaped from his prison, just in time to render efficient aid in the capture of Goliad; and then, he hastened on to San Antonio, where he gloriously fell in the arms of victory--a martyr to the cause he had, with a steady aim, so nobly espoused and ably defended. But his memory will live in the hearts of a gallant people; and, in after times, his name will be duly honored in the celebration of their victories, and in their songs of triumph.
The capture of San Antonio completed the triumph of the Texian arms. Not an armed Mexican soldier could then be found in her territory.--Gen. Cos was released on his parole of honor, not to serve during the war, unless regularly exchanged; the other officers and soldiers were retained prisoners of war.
We have now given an account of all the battles fought within the limits of Texas; but it may be proper to add some account of Gen. Mexia's expedition against Tampico.
On the sixth day of November last, one hundred and thirty men, chiefly Americans, embarked at New-Orleans on board the schooner Mary Jane for Texas. It was understood, that this vessel had been chartered by a committee, to convey emigrants to that country; and on their arrival, it was to be optional with them, whether they joined the Texian army, or not. Gen. Mexia and his staff were on board this vessel: but no intimation was given to the passengers, that the vessel had any other destination than Texas, until they arrived off the port of Tampico. They were then told, by Capt. Hawkins, one of Gen. Mexia's aids, that the object was to capture Tampico--and the passengers were urged to join the General's standard. About fifty only, most of whom were French and Creoles of New-Orleans, were induced to join his standard. A steamboat took the vessel in tow, but, in attempting to run into the port in the night, they both struck the north breakers. In this critical situation, efforts were made to land the passengers, which at much risk was at length effected, during the latter part of the night and early in the morning. The fort, at the mouth of the harbor, surrendered without an attack. Arms and ammunition were then tendered to the party. Some took them from curiosity, some from necessity, and others on compulsion. Most of the Americans, on account of the deception practiced upon them, in landing at Tampico instead of Texas, were determined not to fight, but to surrender themselves prisoners the first opportunity.
The next day, the party, to the number of one hundred and eighty, marched to attack the town; but meeting with a warmer reception than they expected, they retreated to the fort. Here they found about thirty missing--all but two or three having deserted on the retreat. The General, deeming it advisable to leave the place, embarked with his men on board the schooner Halcyon, bound to Brazoria in Texas.
The deserters were taken prisoners the next day, by a company of horse, and imprisoned. After remaining in prison about a month, they were tried by a court martial; and although all these facts appeared at the trial, they were all condemned to be shot! Some attempts were made to avert their fate. A petition, signed by the prisoners and a number of Mexicans, was sent to the Commandant of the place, but it availed nothing. The sentence of death was promulgated to these hapless victims of treachery, on the afternoon of Saturday; and at sunrise the succeeding Monday, which was the fourteenth day of December, they were all brought out of prison, and shot! Twenty-eight men, many of them mere youths, in a distant land, far away from friends, at a few hours notice, butchered in cold blood! Humanity recoils at the perpetration of such barbarous deeds as this. Such summary proceedings, dictated by savage vengeance, cannot, on any ground, be either justified or excused.
But such has been the character of the wars in South America, ever since the Spanish Colonies strove to shake off the yoke of dependence, for more than a quarter of a century. A war of extermination was carried on by the Spaniards and the Patriots--no quarter was granted in the field--the blood of prisoners was shed like water--and a recital of the wanton cruelties and barbarities committed by both parties, during this state of protracted hostility, would cause even the savage to shudder with horror. These circumstances, as well as the whole course of conduct of the Spaniards, in relation to the inhabitants of the Leeward Islands, Mexico and Peru, are enough to establish their character as the most cruel and sanguinary people on earth.
We have mentioned that a large number of volunteers from the United States had gone to Texas, to aid the people in their struggle for independence. Three companies, numbering more than five hundred men, went from New-Orleans. Cincinnati, Natchez and Mobile, each furnished a company.--And travellers state that they met small parties of volunteers, continually on the road, hurrying on to assist the Texians. Many of these arrived in time to be of much service in the last campaign; but one company, from the city of New-York, owing to the misconduct of a portion of them, were detained on the way; and, probably, have not arrived in Texas.
This party was Col. Stanly's regiment of volunteers, amounting to about two hundred men. They started from New-York in the brig Madawaska, about the middle of November. After ten day's sail, they found themselves among the Bahama banks and islands. The Captain of the brig, never having sailed the route before, became bewildered among the islands. At length he made a harbor at the island of Eleuthera, and sent a boat on shore containing seventeen men. On the island, they found the inhabitants to consist principally of blacks. Having indulged themselves pretty freely in spirits, and finding the inhabitants rather weak and ignorant, they commenced hostilities upon their effects, such as fowls, pigs, Indian meal, &c., and so terrified the people, that they would do whatever they required. They commanded them with loaded pistols at their heads, and threatened them with instant death if they disobeyed.
This indiscreet conduct of course occasioned an excited feeling, on being made known at the English naval station at Nassau, and two gun ships were immediately sent in pursuit, with strict orders to board and put all to death, if any resistance was made. After cruising about a week, one of the ships came up with the Madawaska, and made them all prisoners, on a charge of piracy. They were carried into the port of Nassau in New-Providence, and there put in prison. In the course of a week, the matter was fully investigated, which resulted in the discharge of all but Col. Stanley and ten others, who were detained to await their trial for felony. The result of this trial is not now known; but if found guilty, the punishment by the English laws is known to be severe.
The remaining incidents worthy of note, connected with the Texian Revolution, may be stated in a few words. The General Consultation convened at San Felipe on the fifteenth of October.--An address to the people of the United States was adopted, appealing to our citizens for aid. Strong appeals were also made by the Council to the patriotism of the people of Texas. The Council then adjourned to the first of November; but the people were so much engaged on the frontier, that no meeting was held at that time.
On the twenty-second day of December, a document was published at Goliad, signed by a great number of persons, chiefly Americans, declaring Texas "_a free, sovereign and independent State_." The declaration enters somewhat at length into the condition of Texas, deplores the leniency of the Texian government in permitting Cos to capitulate, and affirms that many of the officers, civil and military, are more ambitious of emoluments, than the good of the country. It is furthermore stated, that there is more danger from the corrupting influence of Santa Anna's gold, than from his bayonets. The necessity of forming an independent sovereign State immediately, in order that all her energies may be concentrated, is pointed out with great force.
On the twenty-sixth of December, a decree of the provincial Government was published, calling a Convention of Delegates from each municipality, clothed with ample powers to adopt a permanent form of government. The Delegates to be elected by the people; all free white males, and Mexicans opposed to a central government, being entitled to vote; and the volunteers in the army being allowed to vote by proxy. The whole number of Delegates to be fifty-six, and the Convention to be held at the town of Washington on the first of March.
The Texians have been very active in raising an army to commence another campaign; and it is believed, Gen. Houston was able to take the field on the first of March, at the head of five or six thousand men. The Texians, it is said, are in regular correspondence with the large party in Mexico opposed to centralism. The whole republic seems to be in a ferment. Gen. Mexia, who set out for Matamoras some weeks ago, at the head of a considerable force, intending to invade the Mexican territory, was believed to have made himself master of Tampico, whence he would act in concert with the Texians on the north, and the revolting Mexicans on the south. It was currently reported at Metamoras, that several of the most influential officers in the Mexican army, had openly denounced centralism, and the state of things in the republic was such, that Santa Anna would either be obliged to return to the federal system, or abandon all hopes of power in Mexico.
The true state of affairs in Mexico, however, it is difficult to ascertain. There are only twenty-seven newspapers in the country, all of which are in a state of subjection to Santa Anna. The only two opposition journals were suppressed: the editor of one was banished to California, to enjoy "the wolf's loud howl on Onolaska's shore;" the other, Santangele, in spite of his name, was sent to the United States.
The Supreme Government, under date of the thirtieth of December, caused the following decree to be published and circulated in every district of the Republic.
"ART. 1. All foreigners that may land in any port of the Republic, or shall make their way into the interior, armed and with the intention of attacking her territory, shall be regarded and punished as pirates, considering that they do not belong to any nation at war with the Republic, and that they do not act under any recognized flag.
"ART. 2. Foreigners that land in any of our ports, or seek to introduce arms and ammunition by land through any channel in a state of insurrection against the government of the nation, and with the avowed object of placing such implements of war in the hands of her enemies, shall be treated and punished in the same manner."
This decree will not be worth, to Santa Anna, the paper on which it is written. It will not deter a single individual from carrying arms and ammunition into Texas, or of joining its army. The sanguinary character of the Spaniards is too well known and established, to ask or expect any thing like clemency at their hands. The Americans needed not a decree under hand and seal, to apprise them of the true character of the Mexicans, when the history of the last twenty-five years is fresh in remembrance.
An embargo has also been laid, by order of the Mexican government, on the ports of Tampico and Metamoras, against Mexican vessels; and on all the ports of Mexico against American ships. No ingress nor egress from the ports is now permitted. The foolish expedition planned by Mexia may have led to this resort, as well as the state of affairs in Texas.
Santa Anna, believing that the permanency of his own power depends upon the subjugation of Texas, is actively engaged in raising troops for another campaign. It is reported that three or four thousand men, under the command of Gen. Urrea, are on their way to the frontier. It is also reported, that he has called to his aid the Comanches and other tribes of Indians; and persuaded them to declare war against Texas; and has promised them the territory of Texas as a reward. The Indians have known the Spaniards too long to place any reliance upon their promises. They may, indeed, excite them to a war; but it is as likely to prove as disastrous to themselves, as to the Texians. The Indians are unsafe allies. Like the war-elephants of ancient times, they often injure friends more than foes. It is certain, that a deadly hatred has existed for a long series of years, between the Spaniards and Indians; and it is believed, no permanent friendship or alliance can be formed between them. They have much more friendship for the Americans, than for the Spaniards; and if they call them into action, it may prove disastrous only to themselves. The Indians are as hard to direct and control, as a fire on their own boundless prairies. The fire, uncontrolled by him who kindles it, sweeps over the plain, where the wind happens to drive; so the wild Indian, regardless of friend or foe, hurries on to kill and plunder, where his savage fury happens to impel him. But on another ground, Santa Anna had better take heed. Exciting the Indians to kill and plunder, is a game that two can play at. The Texians have greater rewards to offer. They can promise them _all Mexico_, with its many victims and much plunder.
In conformity to the custom of nations, the Texians have adopted a flag. It contains a number of stripes, and but a single star; and has inscribed upon it the significant word, 'INDEPENDENCE.' On the twenty-second day of January, the New-Orleans Greys paraded at their encampment, near the mouth of the Brazos river, to display and honor their flag. At the discharge of a signal gun, William Walker, of Portsmouth, N.H., who signalized himself at the capture of San Antonio, had the honor of running it up, for the first time, on a stately flag-staff. The company presented arms, and fired a salute. Just at this time, a volunteer company, on board the steamboat Yellow Stone, from New-Orleans, came up the river, hailed the waving banner, fired a salute, and gave three cheers as they passed. The arrival of such efficient aid, at the moment the national flag was first unfurled, was deemed a happy omen; and that it may continue to wave over Texas, _independent_ and _free_, is the fervent wish of every true son of freedom.
Post offices and mail routes have been established, and a Post Master General appointed. The length of all these mail routes, taken together, amount to about eight hundred miles. For a number of years, there has been no mail connection between the United States and Texas; but as the communication is now so great, regular mails will be established between them.
Texas is in a critical situation; but it is believed, her cause is far from being desperate. Were Mexico united, and could she bring all her force to bear upon the contest, with the activity and zeal of American freemen, Texas would be crushed at a blow. Santa Anna's journals do indeed say, that the whole country is united in the present form of government, and perfect tranquillity prevails; but private letters contradict this statement altogether. They inform us, that Generals Bravo and Alvarez had united, taken the important town of Acapulco, on the Pacific, denounced Santa Anna, and declared for the constitution. In consequence of this movement, one hundred and fifty mules loaded with money and ammunition, and five hundred men left the city of Mexico for that quarter, about the last of January. It was believed, this news would bring Santa Anna from Saltillo to the seat of government.
From all accounts, it appears certain, that the Mexican army, three thousand strong, have left their encampment at Saltillo, for the frontier of Texas. It is formed into two divisions, the one commanded by Sesma; the other, by Cos, and the chief in command is Gen. Urrea. It is reported that a simultaneous attack upon Goliad and San Antonio, is meditated. It is highly probable, the Texians are fully prepared for their reception, and will be able to give a good account of them.
The thin settled State of Texas, with a population of some fifty thousand, comparatively, without arms and resources, and having no organized government, engaging in a war with sixteen States, with a population of eight millions, reminds one of the stripling David, going out in the valley of Elah, to give battle to the Philistine of Gath. It requires an unusual degree of boldness and daring, to form the resolution, and to commence a war, with such an immense disparity of force. But the race is not always to the swift, nor the battle to the strong.
The Texians, and the gallant spirits that have hastened to their aid and rescue, compared in number with their enemy, are indeed but a handful of men; but, like the Spartan band of former times, they have lion-hearts and vigorous arms. What men dare, they dare! They have staked their all upon the issue. They have drawn the sword, and thrown away the scabbard. Exterminated they may be, but not subdued. Before such a band, numbers are of no avail; before such opponents, well may tyrants tremble.
The first campaign has ended in the complete overthrow of the Mexican force, in Texas. The whole course of the campaign has been signally marked by a series of battles, and almost bloodless victories, on the part of the Texians; and by continued defeat, loss and discomfiture on the part of their enemy. The Mexicans have lost much, in men, arms and treasure; and have won nothing but disgrace. Of honor, they had none to lose.
Santa Anna has thousands of men at his command, but they do not possess the chivalrous spirit of the sons of freedom. Judging from the past, _his_ career may be short; but as his subjects know not the value of liberty, and are not sufficiently educated for its rational enjoyment, a long list of tyrants may rapidly succeed him. But light begins to break in upon that benighted corner of the earth. The goddess of liberty, who in former times tried her infant voice in the halls and on the hills of New-England, utters it now, with a power that seems to wake the dead, on the plains of Mexico, and along the sides of the Andes.
On the part of the Texians, the struggle may be long and severe. They may be compelled to fight battle after battle, and obtain victory after victory; and suffer also, many reverses and defeats, before the scene of this awful tragedy closes. But it is confidently believed, that they will finally succeed in their effort, to become an independent nation, and to establish a free, elective government, based upon the equal rights of the people.
Second Campaign.
The second campaign commenced much sooner than was generally expected. It was believed by the Texians, that after the complete and signal overthrow of the Mexican forces in the first campaign, Santa Anna would not be able to raise another invading army, and make his appearance in Texas, before midsummer. In this, they were mistaken. Santa Anna, believing that the stability of his own government depended upon a vigorous prosecution of the war, by extraordinary exertions, raised an army of five thousand men, and by forced marches was enabled to make his appearance in Texas about the twentieth of February. This early and unexpected appearance of an invading army, accounts for the fact, that the Texians were so illy prepared for their reception.
On the twenty third of February, Santa Anna, who, contrary to general expectation, commanded in person, appeared before the town of San Antonio, at the head of the advanced division of his army, amounting to a thousand men. At this time, less than two thousand Texians were in arms in the whole province. Of these, only a hundred and fifty men, under the command of Col. W.B. Travis, were stationed at San Antonio--five hundred men, under Col. Fanning, were at Goliad, a hundred and twenty-five miles to the south; and one thousand men, under Gen. Houston, at Gonzales, sixty miles to the east of this position.
San Antonio de Bexar is situated on a branch of the San Antonio river, which is here but a small stream, that can easily be crossed by slight wooden bridges. Most of the dwelling houses are on the west side of the river, but the fort is on the east side. This fort, called the Alamo, or Elm Tree fort, covers two acres of ground, and is surrounded by a thick stone wall, twenty feet high. Its position was injudiciously selected. It is situated in a valley, having elevated positions in the rear, from which balls may be thrown directly into the fort. It may therefore, be deemed an indefensible fortress.
On the arrival of this division, Santa Anna took possession of the town, and demanded an unconditional surrender of the fort, or the whole garrison would indiscriminately be put to the sword. The intrepid Col. Travis answered this demand by a cannon shot. Immediately, a bombardment from a five inch howitzer, and a heavy cannonade commenced, which was continued for twenty-four hours. This was sustained by the Texians without the loss of a single man, while they made a terrible slaughter in the ranks of their besiegers. From five to six hundred of the enemy are reported to have been killed and wounded.
About this time, a party of seventy men, under the command of Col. Johnson, while reconnoitering to the westward of San Patricio, were surrounded in the night, by a large body of Mexican troops. In the morning, the commander sent in a summons to surrender at discretion, which was refused; but an offer was made to surrender as prisoners of war. This was acceded to by the Mexican officer; but no sooner had the party marched out of their encampment, and stacked their arms, than the mean, cowardly, blood-thirsty Mexicans commenced a general fire upon the defenceless prisoners! An attempt was made to escape by flight--three only effected it, among whom was Col. Johnson--the others were shot down and basely murdered.
On the twenty-fifth of February, an assault was made upon the fort, an account of which, we give in the words of Col. Travis' despatch to Gen. Houston:--
"To-day at ten o'clock, A.M. some two or three hundred crossed the river below, and came up under cover of the houses, until they arrived within point blank shot, when we opened a heavy discharge of grape and canister on them, together with a well directed fire from small arms, which forced them to halt and take shelter in the houses about eighty or a hundred rods from our batteries. The action continued to rage for about two hours, when the enemy retreated in confusion, dragging off their dead and wounded.
During the action, the enemy kept up a continual bombardment, and discharge of balls, grape and canister. We know from observation, that many of the enemy were killed and wounded--while we, on our part, have not lost a man. Two or three of our men have been slightly scratched by pieces of rock, but not disabled. I take great pleasure in stating, that both officers and men, conducted themselves with firmness and bravery.--Lieut. Simmons of the Cavalry, acting as Infantry, and Captains Carey and Dickerson and Blair of the Artillery, rendered essential services, and Chas. Despallier and Robert Brown, gallantly sallied out and set fire to the houses, which afforded the enemy shelter, in the face of the enemy's fire. Indeed the whole of the men, who were brought into action, conducted themselves with such undaunted heroism, that it would be injustice to discriminate. The Hon. David Crockett was seen at all points, animating the men to do their duty. Our numbers are few, and the enemy still continues to approximate his works to ours. I have every reason to apprehend an attack from his whole force very soon. But I shall hold out to the last extremity."
On the first of March, thirty-two men from Gonzales, forced their way through the enemy's lines, and entered the fort--increasing the number to one hundred and eighty-two. Between the twenty-fifth of February and the fifth of March, the Mexicans were employed in erecting breastworks around the fort, bombarding the place and battering the walls. On the second of March, Col. Travis wrote, that more than two hundred shells had been thrown into the fort without injuring a man.
In the mean time, the Mexicans continued to receive re-enforcements. The whole force amounted to about forty-five hundred men. It consisted of forty companies of Infantry, numbering about seventy men each, under Generals Sesma and Cos; and fifteen hundred Cavalry, under Gen. Felisolas; and the whole commanded by Santa Anna in person.
On the sixth of March, about midnight, a general assault was made upon the fort by the entire Mexican force. The walls were weak, the balls from the batteries had passed through them, and, in some places, had become somewhat dilapidated. The cavalry surrounded the fort, and the infantry, well supplied with scaling ladders attempted to enter the fort on all sides at the same time.
The Texians fought desperately until daylight, when seven only of the garrison were found alive. We regret to say, that Col. David Crockett and his companion Mr. Benton, also the gallant Col. Benham of South-Carolina, were of the number who cried for quarter, but they were told that there was no mercy for them. They then continued fighting until the whole were butchered. One woman (Mrs. Dickinson) and a wounded negro servant of Col. Travis, were the only persons in the Alamo whose lives were spared. Col. Bowie was murdered in his bed, sick and helpless. Gen. Cos, on entering the fort ordered Col. Travis' servant to point out to him the body of his master; he did so, when Cos drew his sword and mangled his face and limbs with the malignant feeling of a savage.
The bodies of the slain were thrown into a heap in the centre of the Alamo and burned. On Col. Bowie's body being brought out, Gen. Cos said that he was too brave a man to be burned like a dog; then added,--never mind, throw him in. The loss of the Mexicans in storming the place was estimated at no less than one thousand men killed and mortally wounded, and as many more disabled--making, with their loss in the first assault, between two and three thousand killed and wounded. It is worthy of remark that the flag of Santa Anna's army at Bexar was a _blood red one_, in place of the old constitutional tri-colored flag. Immediately after the capture of the place, Gen. Santa Anna sent Mrs. Dickinson and Col. Travis' servant to Gen. Houston's camp, accompanied by a Mexican with a flag, who was bearer of a note from Santa Anna, offering the Texians peace and a general amnesty, if they would lay down their arms and submit to his government. Gen. Houston's reply was, "True sir, you have succeeded in killing some of our brave men, but the Texians are not yet conquered."
Thus fell the brave defenders of San Antonio. Among the heroes, who perished in the unequal conflict, were Col. W.B. Travis, Col. Jas. Bowie and Col. David Crockett, formerly a member of Congress from the State of Tennessee--every one of whom was himself a host. By a comparison of dates, it appears that this little garrison of one hundred and eighty-two men, held out eleven days against the repeated attacks of an army amounting at last, by constant re-enforcements, to five thousand men. All that the most determined bravery could achieve, was accomplished by the besieged. Although worn down by fatigue and want of sleep, which the continual alarms and discharges of artillery rendered nearly impossible, while the more numerous besiegers could relieve each other, the brave band in the fort did not die unavenged. In the various attacks from first to last, it is probable that they destroyed of the enemy, eight or ten times their own number. The history of their achievements and sufferings, in this memorable siege, may never be known in detail; but enough is revealed to immortalize the names of these martyrs in the cause of liberty, and to stamp with eternal infamy and disgrace their remorseless besiegers. Something of the chivalrous spirit that animated and sustained this truly Spartan band during this trying occasion, may be seen by the despatch of Col. Travis, addressed to his fellow citizens and compatriots, during the siege. He says, "I shall defend myself to the last extremity, and die as becomes a soldier. I never intend to retreat or surrender. VICTORY OR DEATH."
This was the first victory obtained by the Mexicans; and the slaughter of the whole garrison confirmed, what was before suspected, that the contest on their part, was to be a war of extermination. No quarter is to be given, or only granted to be violated. The bloody butcheries of defenceless prisoners, as might have been expected, had the opposite effect intended. Instead of striking terror and dismay into the ranks of the Texians, and palsying their efforts, it only served to arouse and awaken them into more vigorous action. Every man, capable of bearing arms, shouldered his rifle, and marched in double quick time to the theatre of war. The news caused a general excitement throughout the United States. New-Orleans exhibited all the hurry and bustle of a camp; and the western and southern riflemen, by hundreds and fifties, hurried on to the scene of slaughter, to avenge the death of their murdered countrymen.
The character of Gen. Cos stands out in bold relief, as the meanest of the mean. When he and his command were made prisoners of war by the Texians on this very spot of his present savage triumphs, they were humanely treated, and suffered to return home on their parole of honor. This solemn pledge, universally acknowledged and observed by all civilized nations, and all honorable men, Cos has seen fit to disregard. He again appears in arms, and has forfeited his parole of honor. He now stands before the world, in the character of an outlaw. But, as if this were not sufficient to brand his name with infamy, he seemed determined that his actions should be in perfect keeping with his degraded sense of honor; so as to exhibit to the world, the humiliating spectacle of a character entirely perfect in treachery and baseness. Therefore, instead of waging war according to the rules of civilized nations, he basely murdered the sick in their beds, and mutilated the bodies of the slain; and instead of decently burying the dead, he threw their bodies into a heap and burnt them like dogs! A fit instrument, in the hands of Santa Anna, to teach the people of Texas, the blessings of Centralism! But it does not require much forecast to predict, that the Mexicans have kindled a flame at St. Antonio, that many waters will not be able to quench,--that the day of severe retribution and bloody vengeance is nigh. And when it shall have arrived, where will be the voice to plead for such remorseless murderers as these!
On the second day of March, the people of Texas, by their delegates, made a declaration of Independence. It is called, "the unanimous declaration of Independence, made by the Delegates of the People of Texas, in General Convention, made at the town of Washington, on the second day of March, 1836." It is an able state paper, written with much spirit and vigor; but, in gracefulness of style and force of expression, it does not equal its model--the celebrated Declaration of Independence of the United States, from the polished pen of a Jefferson. It contains a statement of grievances, which is submitted to an impartial world, in justification of the hazardous but unavoidable step, of severing their connection with the Mexican people, and of assuming an independent attitude among the nations of the earth. As it is too long to be inserted in this sketch, the following extract, which of itself contains a sufficient reason for the 'hazardous step' taken, must suffice.
"The Mexican government, by its colonization laws, invited and induced the Anglo-American population of Texas, to colonize the wilderness, under the pledged faith of a written constitution, that they should continue to enjoy that constitutional liberty and republican government to which they had been habituated in the land of their birth, the United States of America. In this expectation, they have been cruelly disappointed--as the Mexican nation has acquiesced in the late changes made in the government by General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna; who, having overturned the constitution of this country, now offers us the cruel alternative, either to abandon our own homes, acquired by so many privations, or submit to the most intolerable of all tyranny, the combined despotism of the sword and the priesthood."
Of this convention, Richard Ellis was President, and W.S. Kimball, Secretary. When the news of the fall of San Antonio arrived at the Convention, a powerful appeal to the people of the United States, was immediately adopted, and sent to New-Orleans to be published in the newspapers. A constitution was formed, and the officers of government appointed as follows:--
DAVID G. BURNET, Pres. of the Republic of Texas. LORENZO D. ZAVALLA, Vice President. SAMUEL P. CARSON, Secretary of State. THOMAS I. RUSH, Secretary of War. BAILEY HARDMAN, Secretary of the Treasury. ROBERT POTTER, Secretary of the Navy. DAVID THOMAS, Attorney General. I.R. JONES, Postmaster General.
President Burnet is a native of Newark in New-Jersey, by profession a lawyer--a gentleman of education, accomplished manners and of the purest integrity.
Immediately after the capture of San Antonio, Goliad was besieged by the enemy under the command of Gen. Urrea. Colonel Fanning, contrary to his own judgment, but in obedience to positive instructions from Gen. Houston, blew up the fort and commenced a retreat to the main army. His force amounted to about three hundred and fifty men, and seven pieces of artillery. They had proceeded about eight miles to the eastward of the fort, when they were surrounded in a large prairie, by two thousand Mexicans, consisting of infantry and cavalry. The advance guard of twenty-five men under Col. Wharton were, by this movement cut off from the main force; and believing it to be a mere waste of life to return, they continued on, and escaped.
Col. Fanning evacuated the fort on the nineteenth of March; and it was about four o'clock, in the afternoon of the same day, that the attack commenced, and lasted until sometime into night. The cavalry made many charges upon them in rapid succession, but were repulsed with great slaughter. Col. Fanning continued fighting and retreating, until he gained a small grove of post-oaks in the midst of the prairie. This afforded him a sufficient protection from the charges of the cavalry, and the battle ceased. Col. Fanning's loss was inconsiderable, but one hundred and ninety of the enemy were ascertained to have been slain, and as many more wounded.
This grove was immediately surrounded by the enemy, and a renewal of the battle was expected in the morning. Col. Fanning, well knowing escape to be impossible, entrenched himself during the night and was resolved not to die unavenged. In the morning, however, the enemy showed a white flag, and Col. Fanning went out to meet the Mexican General. A capitulation was made with the usual forms of honorable warfare; Col. Fanning was to lay down his arms, and march back to Goliad, where they were to remain six or eight days as prisoners of war, to be shipped to New-Orleans from Copano. They surrendered on these conditions; on the sixth day after their arrival at Goliad, they were assured that a vessel was ready to receive them at Copano, to embark for New-Orleans, and Col. Fanning marched out in file, the Mexicans each side of him. They were marched down about five miles, when the order was given to fire upon them. At the first fire, nearly every man fell--a Mr. Haddin of Texas and three others succeeded in reaching some bushes about one hundred yards distant. They were pursued by the enemy into the high grass, where they lost sight of them. Haddin remained in the grass all night; in the morning he succeeded in making his escape.
It is difficult to speak of such cowardly and more than savage massacres, with any tolerable degree of composure. The deeds of Santa Anna are written in blood, and every triumph but deepens the stain.
If the first campaign was all victory, the second has hitherto been all defeat. The affairs of Texas appear to have been badly managed. San Antonio, being an indefensible position, ought to have been abandoned at once; but Goliad, the strongest fortress in Texas, ought to have been maintained to the last. It would have kept the southern division in check, and given time to the Texians to have received re-enforcements, so that they could have prosecuted the war with vigor and success.
Gen. Houston, after the capture of San Antonio, retreated from Gonzales to the Colorado, and then, to the Brazos river. The southern half of Texas, being thus left destitute of any armed force, the invading army had nothing to do but to march forward into the interior, and to make war upon unarmed citizens and travellers, and defenceless women and children. The Mexican army proceeded in two divisions of about two thousand men each; the one, on the line of the sea coast; the other, about one hundred miles in the interior towards San Felipe; and troops of horse scoured the country in various directions between them. A general alarm and dismay seized the inhabitants. On the north the Indians, incited by Santa Anna, were reported to have embodied in force, and were proceeding into the country, to plunder and slaughter; from the south, approached the Mexican army, more savage than the Indians, waging a war of extermination! Before such merciless foes, the inhabitants fled, like clouds of dust before the storm. The peril was so imminent, that they were obliged to abandon all their possessions and flee for life. Some went to the sea coast and embarked on board vessels for New-Orleans; others crossed the Sabine river into Louisiana. The settlements of Texas, to the south of the Brazos, were entirely broken up, and the whole country became the theatre of armies, battles, murders and massacres.
Among the inhuman massacres committed, we shall notice two only. The first is that of seventy-three emigrants, who left New-Orleans in a schooner, for Copano. They were landed unarmed at that port, trusting themselves to the power of the Mexicans; but in less than two hours, they were all butchered by the soldiers in sight of the vessel! The schooner escaped to Matagorda. The other case is that of Dr. Harrison, the son of Gen. Harrison of Ohio. He was travelling with three other American gentlemen, when they were all taken, their bodies horridly mutilated, their bowels torn out, and then left in that situation a prey to the vultures!
Some small skirmishes took place at sea, in which the Texians were successful. They captured one schooner loaded with ammunition and supplies for the Mexican army; and sunk another, after a running fight with the Invincible. But neither party have much of a naval force.
At this critical juncture of alarm and distress, Gen. Gaines, the commander of the United States troops at fort Jessup, marched to the line of Texas to keep the Indians in check, and to prevent their joining the Mexican forces; and for the purpose of carrying his plans into complete effect, he called upon the Governors of the adjacent States for a number of regiments of mounted men. This was a wise and humane movement. The Indians in the upper regions of Texas and on the frontiers of the United States, are numerous and warlike; and when engaged in war, they neither respect territorial lines, nor the rules of civilized nations. They inhabit the country from latitude thirty-four degrees north on Red River, to the Rio del Norte, extending to the road that leads from St. Louis (Mo.) to Santa Fe; south to the head waters of Trinity, Guadaloupe, Brazos and Colorado rivers of Texas--a country in length six hundred miles, and breadth from two hundred and fifty to four hundred miles, mostly prairie. The different tribes are Camanches, Kyawas, Towash or Southern Pawnees, Caddoes, Wacoes and Skiddies. They number about thirty-five thousand in all, and can muster from seven to eight thousand restless warriors in this great Western Prairie.
The reported movements of the Indians, however, proved to be greatly exaggerated. Some small parties started for the theatre of the war, but were induced by the prompt action and warning of Gen. Gaines, to return home and be quiet. Being assured that the Indians would remain peaceable, Gen. Gaines countermanded his call upon the States for mounted volunteers, and marched his forces back to fort Jessup and Nachitoches.
The affairs of Texas, at this time wore a gloomy aspect. All the expeditions into Mexico, beyond the limits of Texas, proved disastrous and unsuccessful. The people of the Mexican States proved to be more united in Centralism than was expected. The aid, which many so sanguinely anticipated from that quarter, proved a mere illusion. It now became manifest, that the Texians, with such aid as they could obtain from the United States, must fight her own battles single handed, against the combined forces of all the Mexican provinces.
Gen. Houston, after remaining sometime at his encampment on the Brazos river, retreated about thirty miles further, and crossed the San Jacinta. Santa Anna, with one division of his army, crossed the Brazos fifteen miles below San Felipe, and took the road to Harrisburg. The object of Gen. Houston seems to have been, to retire before the invading army, until it arrived into the centre of the country, and then, give them battle. Although by this course, he left half of the State to the ravages of the enemy, yet he deemed this step unavoidable. His force was too small to hazard _all_, upon the issue of a battle, far away from reinforcements and supplies.
On the nineteenth of April, General Houston's scouts took a courier, who gave information that the Mexican Army were near at hand, on the west side of the San Jacinta river. Immediately, General Houston, at the head of about seven hundred effective men, took up the line of march and arrived in sight of the enemy on the morning of the twentieth. The day was spent in reconnoitering the enemy, and exchanging a few shots between the artillery without much effect on either side. But the particulars of this battle and glorious victory, which resulted in the
CAPTURE OF SANTA ANNA,
and the entire division under his command, we shall give in the words of a number of individuals who were in the contest.
"On the morning of the twenty-first, the enemy commenced manoeuvering, and we expected to be attacked in our camp, as they had received a reinforcement of five hundred men, which made them twelve hundred strong; but they settled down and continued throwing up a breast work, which they had commenced at the first news of our approach. We commenced the attack upon them at half past four o'clock, P.M. by a hot fire from our artillery, consisting of two ordinary four pounders. The enemy returned our fire with a long brass nine pounder. The contest was a regular battle. The Texians, notwithstanding the great disparity of force, positively demanded of Gen. Houston to fight. Consequently, he ordered an advanced guard against the Mexican; yet enjoined them not to attack, but retreat, to bring the enemy into a defile. This being accomplished, Houston immediately flanked and attacked him in front and on both sides--opening first with artillery, which, on the second fire, dispersed to atoms the powder boxes of the Mexicans; and then with rifles. The Texians then rushed in from their ambuscade, with pistols, knives and hatchets, and completed the work of destruction. The fight lasted about fifteen minutes, when Santa Anna ordered a retreat. The Mexican soldiers then threw down their arms, most of them without firing! and begged for quarters. The officers broke and endeavored to escape. The mounted riflemen, however, soon overtook all but one, who distanced the rest; him they ran fifteen miles, when his horse bogged down in the prairie near the Brazos timber; he then made for the timber on foot. His pursuers in the eagerness of the chase, dashed into the same bog, and continued the pursuit on foot, following the trail of the fugitive, which was very plain, owing to the recent rains, until they reached the timber, where it was lost. The pursuers then spread themselves and searched the woods for a long time in vain, when it occurred to an _old Hunter_ that the chase might, like a hard pressed bear, have taken a tree. The tree tops were then examined, when lo, the game was discovered snugly ensconced in the forks of a large live oak. The captors did not know who the prisoner was, until they reached the camp, when the Mexican soldiers exclaimed, "El General, El General Santa Anna!""
Never was a victory more decisive and complete. Six hundred of the enemy were left dead upon the field, and as many more taken prisoners. Among the killed were, Gen. Cos, who was recognized by a soldier after the battle, and immediately shot; Gen. Castrillion, Col. Batnes, Col. Trivino, Col. Don Jose Maria Remero, Lieut. Col. Castillo.
Among the prisoners were Gen. ANTONIO LOPEZ DE SANTA ANNA, his five aids, six Colonels, five Captains, and twelve Lieutenants.
Houston was wounded in the ancle by a musket ball in the early part of the engagement; but remained on his horse until it terminated.
On the part of the Texians, only six men were killed and twenty wounded! The history of war does not furnish a parallel to this splendid victory; but Gen. Houston did not tarnish the laurels so gallantly won, by following the example of the Mexicans, in shooting his prisoners of war. They were removed to Galveston Island; and Gen. Santa Anna and his officers were put on board of an armed schooner, and anchored off the shore. Gen. Santa Anna made a proposition that all his army in Texas should lay down their arms--the Independence of Texas acknowledged--the expense of the war to be paid by Mexico, and himself to remain as a hostage. These were to be the terms of peace; but, unfortunately, he does not possess the power to fulfil them. Mexico will not probably, either agree to pay the expense of the war, or to acknowledge the Independence of Texas. The Texian war is national in Mexico; and Santa Anna continued his power solely by directing the popular fury against Texas. His death would give general satisfaction through the Mexican republic; and the Texian war will enable some other brave to rise into power in Mexico.
Although this signal victory may not terminate the war in Texas, as there are still nearly three thousand Mexicans there, under Generals Ardrade, Urrea and Sesma; and about five thousand more at Saltillo, ready to enter; yet we believe, it fully settles the question of Texian Independence. The capture of Santa Anna will cause a new revolution in Mexico, and a new organization of government. The Texians will gain time to prepare for the contest. Aid, effective and sufficient, will be received from the United States; and it is not probable that another general will be found, to prosecute the war with the experience and vigor of Santa Anna.
The question respecting the acknowledgement of the independence of Texas by the United States, has been moved and discussed in Congress. There seems to be a diversity of opinion among our citizens, whether it would be preferable to acknowledge its independence, or to have it annexed to the United States. Our opinion is, that for all the useful purposes of a good government, the territorial limits of the United States are already sufficiently extensive. If more territory were added, the nation would become too unwieldly to be well managed, and in time would fall to pieces. Texas, of itself, has larger territorial limits than many of the nations of Europe; and when it shall have gained its independence, if wise heads and pure hearts take the lead in its government, it will soon be settled and become a powerful nation.
San Felipe is the head quarters of Austin's Colony. It is situated on the south bank of the Brazos river, a hundred miles from the sea. It is three hundred miles southwest from Natchitoches, and five hundred miles west of New-Orleans. The following table shows the distance and bearing of the principal towns in Texas from San Felipe, the names of the rivers and bays upon which they are situated, and their distance from the sea coast. Those accessable to sea vessels, have a star prefixed.
+-------------+-------------+----------+---------------------+-----------+ |Distance from| |River or Bay on |Distance from Towns. |San Felipe. |Direction.|which it is situated.|the sea. +-------------+-------------+----------+---------------------+-----------+
San Antonio, 170 W. San Antonio, 200 St. Augustine, 250 N.E. Ayish Bayou, 150 *Anahuac, 120 E. Galveston Bay, 50 *Brazoria, 75 S.E. Brazos, 30 *Bolivar, 50 S.E. Brazos, 55 Bastrap, 100 N.W. Colorado, 180 *Columbia, 65 S.E. Brazos, 40 Cole's Settlement, 40 N. Prairie, 140 *Copano, 150 S.W. Aransaso, 25 Electra, 45 N.W. Colorado, 150 Goliad, 125 S.W. San Antonio, 75 Gonzales, 125 W. Guadalupe, 180 *Harrisburg, 65 E. Galveston Bay, 75 Liberty, 125 N.E. Trinity, 55 *Linchburg, 75 N.E. Galveston Bay, 75 *Matagorda, 100 S. Colorado, 20 Montezuma, 35 W. Colorado, 130 *Matamoras, 280 S.W. Rio del Norte, 45 Monclova, 390 S.W. On Prairie, 280 Nacogdoches, 245 N.E. On Prairie, 150 *Orazimba, 55 S.E. Brazos, 50 *Refugio, 290 S. Rio del Norte, 1 San Patrick, 180 S.W. Neuces, 50 Tinoxtitlan, 100 N.W. Brazos, 200 *Velasco, 100 S.E. Brazos, O Victoria, 100 S.W. Guadalupe, 75 Zavallas, 200 N.E. Neches, 80
Transcribers note: Apart from a few obvious printers errors original spelling has been retained.
End of Project Gutenberg's Trip to the West and Texas, by A. A. Parker