Chapter 47

The other standards are for "baskets or other containers for small fruits, berries, and vegetables." They are to have capacities only of one-half pint, 1 pint, 1 quart, or multiples of 1 quart, dry measure. Such containers may be of any shape so long as their capacities accurately accord with the standard requirements.

The examination and test of containers to determine whether they comply with the provisions of the act are made duties of the department, and the Secretary of Agriculture is empowered to establish and promulgate rules and regulations allowing such reasonable tolerances and variations as may be found necessary.

Penalties are provided by the act for the manufacture for shipment, sale for shipment, or shipment in interstate commerce of Climax baskets, and containers for small fruits, berries, and vegetables, not in accord with the standards. It is provided, however:

That no dealer shall be prosecuted under the provisions of this act when he can establish a guaranty signed by the manufacturer, wholesaler, jobber, or other party residing within the United States from whom such Climax baskets, baskets, or other containers, as defined in this act, were purchased, to the effect that said Climax baskets, baskets, or other containers are correct within the meaning of this act. Said guaranty, to afford protection, shall contain the name and address of the party or parties making the sale of Climax baskets, baskets, or other containers, to such dealer, and in such case said party or parties shall be amenable to the prosecutions, fines, and other penalties which would attach in due course to the dealer under the provisions of this act.--Department of Agriculture.

The Rhubarb Plant.

LUDVIG MOSBAEK, ASKOV.

Rhubarb, or pieplant, as it is more commonly called, is one of the hardiest and at the same time a most delicious fruit. When the stalks are used at the right stage and given the proper care by the cook, they are almost equal to fresh peaches.

Rhubarb can be transplanted every month in the year, but the best time is early spring or August. There are especially two things rhubarb will not stand, "wet feet and deep planting." Most beneficial is good natural or artificial drainage and rich soil, made so by a good coat of manure, plowed or spaded in, and a liberal top dressing every fall, cultivated or hoed in on the top soil the next spring. Fifty plants or divisions of a good tender variety planted 3 to 4 feet apart will supply an average household with more delicious fresh fruit and juice for six months of the year than five times the space of ground devoted to currants, gooseberries or any other fruit, and if you have from 50 to 100 plants you can afford to pick the first stalk that sprouts up in April and still figure on having an abundance to keep you well supplied all summer.

Do you really know what a delicious beverage can be made from the juice of rhubarb mixed in cool water? Take it along in the hayfield a hot summer day. And even if you can not keep it cool the acid contained in the juice still makes it a delicious and stimulating drink where you would loathe the taste of a stale beer. There are about a hundred other ways to prepare rhubarb, not forgetting a well cooled rhubarb mush served with cool milk in the evening or for that matter three times a day; nothing cheaper, nor healthier. The fresh acid contained in the rhubarb purifies the blood and puts new vigor in your body and soul, is better and cheaper than any patent medicines, and from the growth of 50 to 100 plants you can eat every day for six months and preserve enough in fresh, cool water in airtight jars to last you all winter. But you can do still better with your rhubarb. You can add three months more and make it nine months of the year for fresh, crisp, delicious fruit. I will tell you how.

When your rhubarb gets 3-4 years old and very big and strong clumps of roots, divide some of the best and make a new planting and dig some of the balance before frost in the fall. Leave them on top of the ground until they have had a good freeze--this is very essential to success--then place the roots as you dug them in a dark corner in your cellar or in a barrel in your cellar, exclude all light, keep the soil moderately wet and after Christmas and until spring you will have an abundance of brittle, fine flavored stalks that are fully equal to and perhaps more tender than the outdoor grown. Years ago in Chicago I grew rhubarb in a dark house 36×80 ft., built for that purpose, and the stalks generally commanded a price of 12 to 15c a pound in the right market in January, February and March.

It is better not to pull any stalks the summer you transplant, at least not until September. Next year in May and June you can have stalks from 1/2 to 1 pound and over. When you pull stalks don't take the outer two or three leaves but only the tender ones, and strip them off in succession so you do not come back to the same plants to pull for four to six weeks or more. Just as quick as the plant shows flower stems cut them off close to the ground and keep them off, never allow them to show their heads.

I have grown rhubarb for market and for domestic use for about forty years, having one time as much as five acres, and I will assure you if you will follow directions you will appreciate rhubarb more than before and get out of it all it is worth.

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TREES PLANTED BY MACHINE.--A machine which plants from ten to fifteen thousand forest trees seedlings a day is now being used at the Letchworth Park Forest and Arboretum, in Wyoming County, N. Y., according to officials of the Forest Service who are acting as advisers in the work. Previously the planting had been done by hand at the rate of 1,200 to 1,500 trees each day per man.

The machine was designed to set out cabbage and tomato plants, but works equally well with trees. It is about the size of an ordinary mowing machine and is operated by three men and two horses. One man drives the team while the other two handle the seedlings. The machine makes a furrow in which the trees are set at any desired distance, and an automatic device indicates where they should be dropped. Two metal-tired wheels push and roll the dirt firmly down around the roots. This is a very desirable feature, it is said, because the trees are apt to die if this is not well done. Two attachments make it possible to place water and fertilizer at the roots of each seedling. Another attachment marks the line on which the next row of trees is to be planted.

No cost figures are available yet, but officials say that the cost will be much less than when the planting is done by hand. It is stated that the machine can be used on any land which has been cleared and is not too rough to plow and harrow.--U. S. Dept. Agri.

The Greenhouse versus Hotbeds.

FRANK H. GIBBS, MARKET GARDENER, ST. ANTHONY PARK.

In discussing the subject assigned me, I will only speak of hotbeds and hothouses as used for the purpose of growing vegetables and early vegetable plants.

The hotbed is still very desirable where it is wanted on a small scale to grow early vegetables for the home or market, as the small cost for an outfit is very small as compared to hothouses. Sash 4×5 ft., which is the favorite size with market gardeners, can be purchased for about $2.00 each glazed, and a box 5×16 ft. to hold four sash can be made for $1.50, making an outlay less than $10.00 for 80 sq. ft. of bed. With good care sash and boxes will last eight years.

Where the beds are put down in early February two crops of lettuce and one crop of cucumbers can be grown, and when the spring is late three crops of lettuce before outdoor lettuce appears on the market, when the beds are given over entirely to the cucumber crop. Lettuce at that time generally sells for 25c per dozen, and cucumbers from 50c down to 15c per dozen, according to the season. From three to five hundred cabbage, cauliflower or lettuce plants can be grown under each sash, or from 150 to 300 tomatoes, peppers or egg plants can likewise be grown under each sash, or where lettuce is grown to maturity six dozen per sash.

The cost of the horse manure for the beds varies greatly, as some are situated where it can be secured very reasonably, while with others the cost would be prohibitive. The amount required also varies according to the season they are put down. When the beds are put down early in February, three cords of manure are necessary for each box. When they are put down March 1st, one-half that amount is needed. Where there is no desire to get the early market, and the beds are put down March 15th, one cord is plenty for each box. I have never tried to figure out just what the cost of putting down each box is, or what is the cost of ventilating and watering; but if they are neglected and the plants get burned or frozen, the cost is much more than if they were given proper attention, and, besides, much time is lost in getting another start, as they are generally left several days to see if the plants will recover, which they seldom do.

The cost of hothouses varies so greatly for the size of the house that it is hard to draw a comparison. A modern steel frame house containing 10,000 sq. ft. of glass can be built for about $4,000.00, or a house one-half that size can be built for $10,000.00 and is no better than its cheaper rival. A small house say 16×80 ft., heated with a brick furnace and flue and hot water coil can be built for from $350.00 to $400.00, where one does not have to hire skilled labor. A hothouse of any size is very satisfactory, as in cold, stormy weather, when we can't even look into a hotbed, plants can be kept growing and there is always something we can do and be comfortable while we are doing it. It is impossible to use a hotbed all winter, as no matter how much manure is put into it in the fall it will cool out and be worthless long before spring.

With a good hothouse four crops of lettuce can be raised during the fall and winter, and a crop of cucumbers in the spring and early summer.

Each crop of lettuce sells for from 20c to 25c per dozen; the plants are set six inches apart each way, making about four per square foot of bench room.

The cucumber crop generally pays as well as two crops of lettuce and is usually planted to come into bearing early in June and kept bearing through July, or until the outdoor cucumbers are on the market. In the so-called summer just passed (1915), there were no outdoor cucumbers, and they were kept bearing through August and September. Cucumbers grown in hotbeds cannot be kept in bearing more than six weeks before the vines go to pieces and will not sell for as high a price as hothouse grown. With favorable weather I have always thought I could grow a crop of lettuce in less time in a hotbed than in a hothouse, but with cold, cloudy weather the advantage is on the side of the hothouse. Much less time is required to do the ventilating and watering in a hothouse than with beds, and the soil must be in the highest state of fertility for either one.

While hotbeds will always be desirable in many localities on account of the small first cost, the days of the large commercial hotbed yard is passed, and there are now around Minneapolis 5,000 hotbed sash that will not be put down next spring, or if put down, used only on cold frames, all owing to the scarcity of fresh horse manure.

While it is a great satisfaction to have a hothouse or hotbeds and grow vegetables in winter, the life of the market gardener is not one continuous round of pleasure, as lice, white fly, red spider and thrip, mildew and fungous rot are always ready for a fight, and the gardener must always be on his guard and beat them to it at their first appearance, or the labor of weeks will be lost.

An Ideal Flower Garden for a Country Home.

M. H. WETHERBEE, FLORIST, CHARLES CITY, IOWA.

In laying out grounds for country homes or remodeling them, space should be of the first importance, and where space permits there is no better arrangement than a fine border on one side of the lawn with a driveway between the lawn and the border, leading from the street to the house and barns. The border should be wide enough to have a nice variety of shrubs for a background, and there should be space for the hardy perennials and bulbs, which should not be planted solidly but placed in clumps and arranged according to height and blooming season and as to color effect.

I will mention a few of the hardy shrubs and plants that we can all grow with success. While the catalogues are filled with a large list of so-called hardy stock, we must remember that we live in a good sized country and what would be hardy in Southern Iowa, Missouri and Illinois, would not stand the winters of Northern Iowa or of Minnesota or other localities of the same latitude. In shrubs we can be sure of a variety of lilacs, snowballs, and hydrangea paniculata. Some of the newer varieties are fine and bloom in August, when few other shrubs are flowering. Spirea Van Houttii, best known as Bridal Wreath, we might include and a few of the hardy vines if a trellis or other support was given for them, such as clematis paniculata, coccinea and jackmani, the large purple and white honeysuckle, Chinese matrimony vine, etc.

Among hardy roses, which are called the queen of all flowers, are the Rugosa type, which will stand the winters with no protection and continue to flower all summer. While the flowers of that type are single or semi-double, the bushes would be handsome without any flowers. This type also produces hips, which adds to their attractiveness, and these may be made into jelly in the fall if so desired. I would advise to plant some of the most hardy of the hybrid perpetual roses, such as General Jacqueminot, Magna Charta, Mrs. Chas. Wood, Mrs. John Lang, Mad. Plantier, with some of the climbers, such as the Rambler in variety, Prairie Queen, Baltimore Belle and, perhaps, some others, with the understanding that the hybrids and climbers should have protection in some form for the winter months.

Then in hardy perennials there is such a variety to select from that one hardly knows where to begin or when to stop. Of course everyone wants a few peonies, and some of the hardy phlox, in such a variety of color. Then the delphinium, or hardy larkspurs, are fine bloomers. The blue and white platycodon are sure to flower, while the German iris are good and the Japan iris are fine flowers, but have to have good protection to stand our winters. For fine white flowers we have the showy achilleas in variety and gypsophila paniculata, called baby breath as a common name. Then we must have plenty of space for a variety of annuals, such as sweet peas, cosmos, pansies, verbenas, etc. Also, we would grow geraniums in variety, a few summer carnations, and the selection can be large or small, but almost every one will want some dahlia and gladiolus bulbs. Those that like yellow, or lemon, lilies can plant them and have a mass of flowers during June. The Japan lilies, especially the rubrum variety, are good bloomers and quite hardy.

The Planting and Care of Hardy Perennials.

MISS GRACE E. KIMBALL, WALTHAM. (SO. MINN. HORT. SOCIETY.)

The most important essential in the planting of hardy perennials is the preparation of the ground. It must be deeply spaded or plowed and thoroughly pulverized. While most kinds of plants will do well in any good garden soil, most gardens need more or less fertilizer to make the ground good garden soil. So it is well at the time of spading or plowing to see that enough fertilizer is applied to insure good growth and blossom. But care must be used that no fresh stable manure comes in contact with the roots. If it must be used see that it is put in the bottom of the hole or trench dug for the plants, and covered several inches with earth.

When the ground is well prepared and properly fertilized comes the planting, and as many plants need somewhat different handling, it is well for one starting a garden to understand just how each kind should be set. The iris, for instance, likes to be very near the surface of the ground. In fact it seems to delight in pushing the earth off the fleshy part of the root and basking in the sun, while the small roots lie very close to the surface. The oriental poppy must be planted with the crown well above the ground, or else when any moisture settles on it the crown will rot, and the plant die. The gaillardia, larkspur and columbine should be planted about as the oriental poppy with the crowns perhaps not quite as much above the ground, while the peony should be set so that the bud is covered two or three inches.

Since fall planting of herbaceous perennials has come into prominence one can choose either spring or fall for most of their planting, as most plants do well set at either time. But the oriental poppy does not ship nor transplant well in the spring. It dies down after blossoming--one may think they have lost their plants then--and starts up again in August or September. Just as it is starting then seems to be the safest time to plant.

August and September are considered the best months to do fall planting, although some advocate setting peonies until it freezes. Still I think it safer to plant earlier than that.

If I were beginning a hardy garden, one that I could add to from time to time, I would try to set out in the fall plants that bloom in the spring or early summer, and in the spring those that bloom in the fall. Nothing is gained by setting iris or peonies in the spring, for nine times out of ten they will not bloom the same season they are set, while if set in the fall nearly all varieties of either the iris or peony will bloom the next year. On the other hand, phlox set in the spring scarcely ever fails to bloom in the late summer or early fall, and keeps it up until freezing weather. The phlox, however, should be taken up and divided every two or three years to obtain the best results.

After planting comes the cultivating, which should be kept up all summer. Especially after a rain should the ground be stirred to keep it from baking. In exceedingly dry seasons by keeping a dust mulch around the plants one can avoid having to do much watering--for unless you water thoroughly at such a time it is better not to water at all. However, if it finally becomes necessary to apply water, the dust mulch has kept the ground in condition to absorb all the water that is used.

In the fall after the ground has frozen a light covering of some kind should be thrown over the plants. This is to protect them from the thawing and freezing that takes place from time to time during the winter and early spring. After the first year, when the foliage has increased so as to be some protection, it is not as necessary to cover, although no doubt a little more covering would be beneficial. Some growers of the peony, however, advocate cutting off the leaves in the fall, and in such a case a covering would be necessary.

We found a very satisfactory way for both covering and fertilizing was to throw a fork full of dressing around each plant in the fall and work it into the ground in the spring.

IN MEMORIAM--J. F. BENJAMIN.

PASSED JULY 15, 1916. AGED 59 YEARS.

"John Franklin Benjamin was born at Belvidere, Illinois, May 6, 1857. That same year his parents moved to Hutchinson and he, at the age of five years, was one of the two score of little children who spent hours of terror in the stockade when it was attacked by the Indians on September 4, 1862. As he grew up he attended the Hutchinson school, his boyhood being spent on the farm. He was married in October, 1889, to Minnie L. Walker. The following year they moved to Pierce county, Neb., where Mr. Benjamin purchased and for ten years managed a large ranch. In 1890 they returned to Hutchinson and proceeded to open and improve Highland Home Fruit Farm, which was thenceforth Mr. Benjamin's abiding place until the summons came that ended all his earthly hopes and plans.

"He was an active factor in farmers' co-operative society affairs and supported all movements for the moral and educational uplift of the community. He had been for many years a member of the M. E. church and of the Woodmen's and Royal Neighbors' camps and a valued and active member of each of these societies.

"Mr. Benjamin left no children, and the wife who has been his devoted helpmate for twenty-seven years survives to face the coming years of bereavement alone.

"His had been a useful life, a life of ceaseless and honorable toil, and that beautiful and valuable property, Highland Home Fruit Farm, largely the product of the work of his own hands, is a monument to his memory which will long endure to be admired and enjoyed by others as one of the model rural places of Minnesota. Few men in the space of twenty-five years have accomplished more than did J. F. Benjamin in establishing the fine, modern home, the large orchard and small fruit and flower gardens and well stocked farm, all of which he had tended with loving hands."

Mr. Benjamin was well known by the members of this society who have attended its annual meetings within the last ten or fifteen years. During this period he has been an active member of the society, often serving on the program or in some other way as opportunity came to him. He was one of the most loyal members of the association, practicing what he preached, and doing all within his power to extend the usefulness of the society. I had a close personal acquaintance with Mr. Benjamin and the highest respect for his character and attainments. As a comparatively young man we anticipated his presence with us for a long period of time, but in this we are sadly disappointed. His wife in a recent letter says, "One of his greatest pleasures was cultivating and taking care of the flowers which surrounded his home. After a hard day's work in the field, he would labor with his flowers and shrubbery until far into the night. He enjoyed taking or sending flowers to the sick, and many bouquets of his choicest blossoms he gave his friends as they drove past or called to admire his beautiful grounds." In this spirit Mr. Benjamin labored to reach others and widen the wholesome influence of his life.--Sec'y.

PROGRAM 50th ANNUAL MEETING

Our Semi-Centennial Anniversary

Minnesota State Horticultural Society,

To be held in the West Hotel, Minneapolis, December 5, 6, 7, 8, 1916.

A Great Program.

Study this program carefully and select such features as you especially desire to participate in--but you are more than welcome to all.

Discussion follows each topic.

Discussions are "free for all," whether members or not. Ask questions or express opinions freely.

DEMONSTRATIONS.