Chapter 30

The spring of 1915 we received from the Central Station fifty plants labeled Minn. No. 1017. We considered it our duty to test these in all ways, so kept all berries picked off until July 1st, then allowed fruit and plants to form as they would, and the result was an immense crop of dark red fruit, of the finest quality, and over 600 strong, sturdy plants. These were transplanted this spring without the loss of a single plant, and at this date are certainly a fine looking bunch.

The apple trees received this spring from the Central Station are all doing well. The trees and plants from that Station certainly speak volumes for the work being done by Supt. Haralson.

Some trees and shrubs killed back quite badly the past winter, especially spirea Van Houtti was badly hurt.

Fruit prospects are good, the cold backward spring held the fruit buds back until all danger of frost was over.

Strawberries are especially fine this season, and bid fair to be a record crop. In fact, the horticulturists in this part of our state have much to be thankful for.

Sauk Rapids Trial Station.

MRS. JENNIE STAGER, SUPT.

June 13--Starting with a late spring, which saved all sorts of blossoms from the frost, now in June we have promise of an unlimited amount of fruit. But with heavy rains almost every night, we cannot effect much with spraying. One spraying eliminated all worms so far from not only the currants and gooseberries, but the roses also, and once going through the orchards has done away with the few tent caterpillars that had started in their work.

So on the whole we have hopes of a full harvest of not only tree but small fruits. Most vegetables are backward, as also flowers from seeds, but with so much to be thankful for how can any of us complain.

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ALLEGED PEAR BLIGHT CURES ARE WORTHLESS--ORGANISM OF DISEASE LIVES UNDERNEATH BARK OUT OF REACH OF "CURE."--Fruit growers should not allow themselves to be induced to purchase and use worthless pear blight cures. Every year we hear of cures for pear blight being sold to fruit growers, but to the present time the experiment stations of the country have hunted in vain for any practical remedy that may be sprayed upon trees or used in any way for the cure of this typo for disease. The organism lives underneath the bark entirely out of reach of remedies that may be applied to the surface of the tree.

I would strongly recommend to fruit growers that they do not spend any money for pear blight until they are able to learn through experiment stations, or the Department of Agriculture at Washington, D.C., that there is a remedy that can be used for the control of this disease.--C. P. Gillette, Colorado Agricultural Experiment Station.

West Concord Trial Station.

FRED COWLES, SUPT.

June 14.--The past winter was long and severe. Besides the severe cold, a heavy coat of ice remained a long time on trees of all kinds, causing much anxiety, but when the time came trees of all kinds were full of bloom and beauty. Most varieties of apples have set a full crop of fruit. Some trees which bore a heavy crop last year have little or none this year, but the general crop of apples will be heavy if it matures. Our trees top-worked to Jonathan and Northern Spy are bearing good this year; they show no signs of winter-killing.

Plums were full of bloom as usual, but have set little fruit. Some varieties--Sansota and Wyant--have a few scattering plums. Seedling No. 17 also has a few. The new seedlings from the Station are all growing good. The native plums in a thicket have more fruit than the named varieties.

Strawberries have wintered well and give promise of a full crop. Some garden patches in the vicinity winter-killed badly. Minnesota Seedling No. 3 promises to be a good berry; the strong fruit stems keep the berries from the ground. The Progressive and Superb, of the everbearing type, are no longer an experiment, but are a success, and many farmers are planting them.

Raspberries winter-killed some. The Herbert seems as hardy as any. Seedling No. 4 is also hardy. Gooseberries and currants are bearing as usual. Grapes have started rather late and will have a short season to mature.

The early flowering shrubs bloomed very full this spring. Lilacs did extra well. The Persian lilac was very full and lasted a long time. Chas. X, Madam Chereau and Alphonse la Valle were fine. Villosa is just coming out; this is a beautiful variety. The tree lilac received from China a few years ago is going to bloom for the first time. The iris is just in full bloom, and the delicate colorings always please. Peonies are late this year, none being out at this time. A few Rugosas are the only roses out at this time, but they look promising for a little later.

Orcharding in Minnesota.

DISCUSSION LED BY PROF. RICHARD WELLINGTON, UNIVERSITY FARM.

Mr. Sauter: I want to set out 500 trees; what kind shall I set out? I live at Zumbra Heights.

Mr. Wellington: I would prefer some of the more experienced growers to speak on that question, but going over the recommendations of over 160 growers the Wealthy is recommended in practically all cases in preference to the other varieties. We know, however, that the Wealthy needs pollen from other varieties for fertilization of the blossom, so it would be foolish to put out 500 Wealthys. It is better to mix in some of the other varieties. If I was planting an orchard, probably seventy-five per cent. of the apples would be Wealthys.

Mr. Sauter: And what next?

Mr. Wellington: Well, that depends altogether on your market. If you can handle the Duchess apple, work the Duchess in; or if you wanted a few late apples, work in some of the other varieties.

Mr. Sauter: Isn't the Okabena better than the Duchess?

Mr. Wellington: It is a little later.

Mr. Richardson: Four days later.

Mr. Wellington: That would be my recommendation. I would put in the majority of the trees Wealthys and then work in some other varieties according to your market.

Mr. Sauter: Isn't the Malinda and the Northwest Greening all right?

Mr. Wellington: The Northwest Greening seems to be especially valuable in certain parts of the state. In some parts they winter injure, but it is a good late variety.

Mr. Sauter: How is the Malinda?

Mr. Wellington: Malinda is all right excepting in quality. It is lacking in quality.

Mr. Sauter: Is it a good seller?

Mr. Wellington: I couldn't tell you about that. Some of these other gentlemen could give you information on that point. It tastes more like cork than anything else, but after the other apples are gone we are not so particular about it.

Mr. Dunlap: The speaker brought out one point that we tested out a great many years ago in Illinois, and I suppose it is really an important one here, and that is the protection against the winds with shelter-belts. Now, at the University of Illinois they planted out some forty acres to test that with all the varieties they could get together, and they planted spruce trees not only on the outside of the orchard but they planted them in through the orchard, dividing the orchards up into ten acre plots. Quite a number of the early planters of apples in Illinois also put windbreaks around their orchards with considerable detriment to their orchards.

We find that we need air drainage there just as much as we need protection against the wind. If I were in Minnesota I might change my mind after studying the conditions, but if I was going to plant in Minnesota and I should plant evergreens I certainly would trim them up from the bottom so as to get air drainage. I have known of instances where orchards were protected and where there was air drainage they were all right, but where they were closely protected by the trees they were injured by the frosts by their starting too early in the spring. If you get a warm atmosphere around the trees you start your buds pretty early, several days earlier than they would if they had the right kind of air drainage, and it does seem to me that the experience we have had would be against close planting around an orchard for protection from frost, though you do want to protect them against winds, but air drainage, it seems, is not a detriment to orchards. (Applause.)

Mr. Richardson: I wish to say that in my observation and my experience if I was putting in a windbreak I would put it on the south and west sides; I wouldn't have any on the north and east.

Mr. Brackett: Our prevailing winds are from the south and west during the summer, and the Wealthy is an apple that is bad for falling off when it gets to a certain stage, and I think it is very necessary for us to have a windbreak on the south and west if we are going to protect our orchards here.

Mr. Ludlow: The wind comes from the northwest generally in the winter, when we have storms, and if snow falls and it comes from the northwest, and the orchard is protected on that side by a windbreak, the windbreak will catch the snow and it will pile on top of the orchard, and I have known at least a dozen trees to be broken down by the storms of winter getting in that way.

A Member: I think crab apple trees make a good windbreak, if they are set twice as close together as trees in the orchard.

A Member: I think location has more to do with it than anything else. I have two or three orchards in mind where five years ago, when we had that hard frost, they had an abundance of apples, and it was protected from the northwest. I have another orchard in mind that was protected from the north and northwest, and this year they had over 1,400 bushels of Wealthy apples. Mine wasn't protected particularly from the north, and I had no apples, but back of the buildings, there is where I had my apples. I tell you location has more to do with it than a windbreak in such a case.

Mr. Drum: You all remember some ten or more years ago when the apple trees were in blossom, and we had a terrible snow storm and blizzard and freeze. My orchard was protected both from the southwest and the northwest and the north, and following that freeze my trees had the only apples that were left in that country. I think that protection from the north and northwest is just as essential, especially in a position where the winds have a wide sweep. My house and my orchard slope off to the northwest, and I have a full sweep of the northwest wind there for miles. The house was set as it were on a pinnacle. I think the protection from the northwest is fully as essential in such a position as any other.

Mr. Whiting: This windbreak proposition is a question of locality. In the western part of the state, as well as in South Dakota--especially in South Dakota--we say that the south windbreak is decidedly the most important of any we can put in. We have more hot winds than you do here in the eastern part of Minnesota. You don't have that trouble, but in western Minnesota you are very much like we are in South Dakota. Mr. Ludlow knows the conditions, and I say you must take that into consideration. If you are in that locality the south windbreak is decidedly the most important of any. Then I would say the windbreak on the south, west and north are all of considerable importance. Of course, you can overdo it, you can smother your orchard. You must guard against that, but we have too much air drainage.

In regard to the variety proposition, isn't it true that you are growing too many perishable apples in Minnesota? I know it is so in South Dakota. We are growing too many of these early varieties; we ought to grow more winter varieties. If you want to build up a large commercial apple business you have got to raise more keepers. You are planting too many early varieties.

Mr. Dowds: I have been setting out apple trees more or less in different states for sixty years. If I was going to set out another orchard I would put windbreaks all around it, north, south, east and west, and the windbreak that I would use would be the yellow willow. It grows quick, it gives you a circulation of air, and it protects your trees. My experience in the last fifteen years has been that the yellow willow was the best windbreak that you can have around the house.

Mr. Brackett: Mr. Whiting says, grow winter apples. I want to know what winter apples will bring the money that Wealthy bring.

Mr. Whiting: That is a hard question, but isn't it a fact that you grow too many Wealthys? Don't you glut the market unless you have cold storage? You ought to work to that end just as much as possible; you ought to have more good keepers, better winter varieties.

The Society Library.

Books may be taken from the Library of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society by any member of the society on the following terms:

1. Only one book can be taken at a time.

2. Books with a star (*) before the title, as found in the published library list, are reference books and not to be taken from the library.

3. In ordering books give besides the name also the case and book numbers, to be found in the same line as the title.

4. Books will be sent by parcel post when requested.

5. When taking out, or sending for a book, a charge of ten cents is made to cover expense of recording, transmission, etc.

6. Books are mailed to members only in Minnesota and states immediately adjoining. When sent to points outside the state a charge of fifteen cents is made.

7. A book can be kept two weeks: If kept longer a charge of two cents per day will be made.

8. The library list, to December 1, 1915, is published in the 1915 annual volume of the society. Additions to this list will be published year by year in the succeeding annual volumes.

GARDEN HELPS

Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society

Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So. Minneapolis.

Mr. H. H. Whetzel, of the plant disease survey, U.S. Department of Agriculture, stationed at Cornell University, where the American Peony Society has its test grounds, has made a study of the stem-rot disease of the peony and has set forth the results in an address before the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, from which the following has been culled:

"The botrytis blight is by far the most common and destructive disease of the peony so far as known at present. This disease is frequently epidemic, especially during wet springs. It occurs wherever peonies are grown, apparently the world over.

"This disease usually makes its appearance early in the spring when the stalks are coming up. Shoots will suddenly wilt and fall. Examination will show they have rotted at the base or just below the surface of the ground. The rotted portion will soon become covered with a brown coat of spores--much like felt. Generally it is the young stalks that are affected, though sometimes stalks with buds just opening will suddenly wilt and fall. It is thought the spores are carried through the winter on the old stubble, after the tops have been cut off. They are in the best position to give rise to a new crop of spores in the spring, and the new shoots become infected as they appear.

"To eradicate this disease the old stubble should be carefully removed in the fall or early spring by removing first the soil from the crown so as not to injure the buds, and cutting off the old stalks. These should be burned and the soil replaced with clean soil or preferably sand. Whenever a shoot shows sign of the disease it should be cut off and burned. The buds must also be watched and any that begin to turn brown or black and die must also be cut off and burned, as spores will be found upon them, and these will be spread by the wind and insects. Spotted leaves should also be picked off. In wet seasons the peonies should be closely watched. For the small garden, with comparatively few clumps of peonies, this treatment will be entirely practical and effective."

Bulbs should be ordered this month if you wish the pick of the new crop. There are two fall blooming bulbs that would add to our September and October gardens. One is the Sternbergia, or autumn daffodil, and the other is the autumn crocus.

The bulbs should be planted in August and will blossom the same season. The daffodil is a clear yellow and is good for cutting. These bulbs must be ordered as early as possible.

Lady bugs are our garden friends, destroying multitudes of aphides. They should never be killed.

Have you the following all ready for use?

For insects, bugs or worms that chew--or eat portions of plants--arsenate of lead, paris green or hellebore.

For sucking insects, nicotine or kerosene emulsion.

For diseases, bordeaux mixture or ammoniacal copper carbonate solution.

A good sprayer.

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_Remember_ our photographic contest.

BEE-KEEPER'S COLUMN

Conducted by FRANCIS JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University Farm, St. Paul.

INCREASING COLONIES (CONTINUED FROM JUNE NO.)

To increase you must first make your colonies strong. One or more of your best colonies must be selected to raise queens for your increase unless you wish to buy your queen. Stimulate your queen raising colonies by feeding and not giving them any supers. The crowded condition will bring on an early swarming impulse, under which they will raise from twelve to twenty large, well developed queen cells each. The queens of your queen raising colonies should be clipped. When in due time a queen raising colony swarms, catch the queen and remove her and let the swarm return. Immediately after this swarm you may proceed to divide your other colonies from which you wish to increase. Put down on a permanent location as many empty hives as you have available queen cells in your colony that swarmed. Into one of these you put your removed breeding queen with two frames of brood and bees. Into each of the rest of the empty hives put two frames of brood with all adhering bees from your colonies you wish to increase. Be sure to leave the queens in the old hive after brood for increase with adhering bees has been removed. Thus you have now a number of new colonies with bees and two frames of brood but no queen. The rest of the hive may be filled with drawn comb or sheets of foundation. To prevent the bees from returning to the old home, stuff the entrance of the hive solidly with grass. In two days the grass will wilt and dry and the bees will come out automatically and stay in the new location--at least most of them. In the meantime being queenless they will be busy with raising queen cells on the two frames of brood. This occupation will make them contented, then on the seventh day cut out every one of their queen cells and give them a cell from your breeder colony. Your queen breeding colony on the seventh day after swarming will have ripe queen cells ready to hatch, with one queen probably out. If by listening in the evening you hear her "sing" and "peep" go next morning and remove all queen cells and give one to each of your newly formed colonies. They will be readily accepted, will hatch immediately, sometimes whilst you are removing them, but certainly the same or next day and begin laying in due time. From such colonies you may not expect any surplus honey, but they will build up rapidly and will be strong colonies to put away next fall.

While it is not the intention to publish anything in this magazine that is misleading or unreliable, yet it must be remembered that the articles published herein recite the experience and opinions of their writers, and this fact must always be noted in estimating their practical value.

THE MINNESOTA HORTICULTURIST

Vol. 44 AUGUST, 1916 No. 8

How May University Farm and the Minnesota State Horticultural Society be Mutually Helpful in Developing the Farms and Homes of the Northwest?

A. F. WOODS, DEAN AND DIRECTOR, DEPT. OF AGRI., UNIVERSITY OF MINN., ST. PAUL.

The farm without its windbreaks, shade trees, fruits, flowers and garden, if it can be called a home at all is certainly one that needs developing and improving. There are many abiding places in the Northwest, as in every other part of the United States, that lack some essential part of them. The first and most important step with a view to correcting these conditions is to bring together those interested in home improvement to talk over problems and difficulties and to plan how to correct them and to interest others in the movement. This is what this great society with its auxiliary societies has been and is now doing most successfully. It is true that your work has been more particularly from the horticultural view point, but, as I said in the beginning, fruits and flowers are civilizing and home making influences.

There should be more horticulturally interested people from the farms affiliated with this society. Each farmers' club should have a horticultural committee. There are now about nine hundred farmers' clubs in the state, and the number is increasing constantly. These clubs represent the communities in which the members live. They include men, women and children, farmers, preachers, teachers, every member of the community willing to cooperate. They start things in the community interest and follow them up. The Agricultural Extension Service of the University is in close touch with these clubs. The horticulturists of the service especially might help to arouse the interest of the clubs in this movement. This society might offer some prizes especially designed to interest the boys and girls of the farmers' clubs. Each club horticultural committee should have representation in this society. Some of the prizes might be memberships or trips to the annual meeting. Many members of this society are members of such clubs. They could take the lead in the movement. In this way the society would keep in touch with the homes and communities of the state, and all would grow together in horticultural grace--and the other graces that go with it.