Part 18

Sweet corn may be divided into three classes: early, medium and late. It is very important that the various kinds come in as early as possible, as a few days make a lot of difference in price.

So you see that to make a profit on beans and sweet corn, four things are needed: good seed, planting at the right time, in the right kind of soil, and plenty of elbow grease--or hard work.

A member: How far apart do you plant your beans in the row?

Mr. Marien: The rows three feet apart and the hills six inches, putting three or four seeds in a hill.

A Member: Don't you recommend testing your seeds before you plant them?

Mr. Marien: Hardly the bean seeds. I don't remember of ever having found any poor bean seeds.

A Member: I mean seeds generally, corn, etc.?

Mr. Marien: Yes, sir, we do; we always test our seed.

Mr. Goudy: What is your method of harvesting your beans?

Mr. Marien: Well, we generally employ pickers, boys and girls, and we pay them about twenty-five cents a bushel when they are above a dollar and a quarter, and then we keep going down; as the price goes down we go down too; but we have paid as much as thirty cents when the price of beans was high and it is important to get many on the market the next day.

Mr. Anderson: What are your gross receipts per acre for beans?

Mr. Marien: That is a hard question to answer, as sometimes it is very poor for the medium and late beans, and sometimes there aren't any receipts at all. (Laughter.) But the early beans sometimes go as high as $250.00 an acre.

Mr. Anderson: How late can you plant them and be sure of a crop?

Mr. Marien: We have planted them as late as the 15th of June.

A Member: You mentioned Davis as your first variety. What is the second one?

Mr. Marien: The Wardwell Kidney. We always plant the two varieties at the same time because if we strike a wet season then the Davis does well, and the Wardwell won't do as well in wet weather but will do better in dry weather.

Mrs. Glenzke: Will you tell me the color of your beans? Are they golden wax?

Mr. Marien: Yes, some golden wax and some green string beans. We haven't as good a market for the green ones.

Mrs. Glenzke: Have they a string on the back?

Mr. Marien: Some have and some have not. There is the Bountiful, or the Thousand to One; that is a small green string bean that hasn't any string. But they are very hard to pick; so we don't raise many of them.

Mrs. Glenzke: Have you ever tried Golden Pod?

Mr. Marien: I think that is a wax bean?

Mrs. Glenzke: Yes.

Mr. Marien: Oh, we don't like them, at least not on the St. Paul market, because they are hard to pick. I don't know how it is in the Minneapolis market.

A Member: What is the best of the green kind?

Mr. Marien: We find that the Bountiful is a very good bean; and then there is also the Red Valentine.

A Member: Did you ever grow any Crusset Wax?

Mr. Marien: No, sir, I have not. Of course, there are some kinds that are just the same, but they go under different names in different places. Different catalogs will catalog the same seeds in a different way.

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BEWARE BLIGHT CURES.--Almost every year orchardists are persuaded to try some new, so-called "blight cure" or preventative, only to find later that they have wasted time and money in the experiment. Government regulations regarding fake remedies of this character are more strict than formerly, but there are still some agents trying to dupe the public into buying their wares.

Blight, which is often referred to as apple blight, fire blight, or pear blight, is caused by bacteria which live in the sap of the tree, and the principle followed by the blight-doctor is to introduce something into the sap which will prevent the working of the bacteria. The remedies are applied in various ways. Sometimes the trunk is painted with a mixture of some kind, or holes are bored into the trunk and these filled with a powder. The orchardist is sometimes furnished with a box of nails as the first "course" and instructed to drive these into the roots of the trees.

It is evident that anything introduced into the sap that is strong enough to kill the bacteria living there will likewise damage the cell tissue of the tree, and result in more harm than benefit. One powder that has been brought to the attention of the Experiment Station, sells for $3.00 per pound, and is administered in teaspoonful "doses." Such a preparation as this is probably harmless, but is a waste of time and money. It would have no effect on the tree or the blight.

Some of the agents not only claim that their remedies will cure blight, but, due to ignorance or other causes, they also claim that trees treated will be immune from attacks of certain insects.

Orchardists may rest assured that up to the present time, no real preventative or cure has been found for blight, and that the only way it can be controlled is by cutting it out.--Colorado Agricultural College.

IN MEMORIAM--MRS. E. CROSS.

Mrs. Erasmus Cross, of Sauk Rapids, and a member of the Minnesota State Horticultural Society since 1888 (27 years), passed away at that place on Tuesday, December 28th. On December 16th Mrs. Cross sustained a painful injury by falling on the floor and breaking her hip. Owing to her advanced age, eighty-two years, the limb could not be set without the use of chloroform, which could not be given on account of weakness of the heart. Death finally released her from her suffering.

Mrs. Jane Cross was always very enthusiastic about the Horticultural Society and the good it was doing, not only for this but other states. The ills of her age had prevented her from attending the meetings these late years, though she often did so in earlier years, but she always sent her fee through the writer, and eagerly awaited her return from the meeting to hear of its stimulating success. Mr. Cross died about six years ago. Two sons, James, of St. Paul, and Robert, of Sauk Rapids, and two daughters, Mrs. Annie Nicholson, of Hamline, and Mrs. Emma Sovereign, of Sauk Rapids, mourn her loss. Our society has lost a most loyal friend.--Mrs. Jennie Stager, Sauk Rapids.

GARDEN HELPS

Conducted by Minnesota Garden Flower Society

Edited by MRS. E. W. GOULD, 2644 Humboldt Avenue So. Minneapolis.

Notes from Prof. Alway's interesting and instructive talk on "Maintaining the fertility of our gardens."

Requisites for proper plant growth are warmth, ventilation, root room, the absence of harmful alkalies or animals that destroy the beneficial bacteria in the soil, water and plant food.

By far the most important requisite for growth is water. More plants and crops fail because of the lack of a proper amount of it than from any other cause.

Plenty of fresh air is needed by the plants, as they derive a portion of their food from it.

They adapt themselves largely to conditions as to root-room, a plant thriving in a pot, but spreading to much greater root space when grown in the open with plenty of room. The more restricted the root space, the more food and water it will require.

The fourth requisite for growth does not concern us as there are no alkali lands in the counties near the Twin Cities, and the harmful minute animals that destroy the beneficial bacteria in the soil are as a rule found only in greenhouses.

The best fertilizer for the garden is the thorough use of the hose.

Each year stable manures become harder to obtain, but the fertility of the garden can be maintained by the use of commercial fertilizers, which are more concentrated foods and are much easier to work with.

The perfect plant food consists of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash. We can obtain these in separate form and use as we need them.

Nitrogen comes in the form of a salt, called nitrate of soda, and in dried blood. The nitrate of soda is very soluble in water and is taken up at once by the plant. It can be scattered upon the ground near but not touching the plant, as in the latter case it would burn it. It can also be dissolved in water--a tablespoonful to a pail--and the ground, but not the plant, watered. Dried blood is slower in action and requires warmth, so should not be used early in the season. Nitrogen promotes quick and luxuriant growth of leaves and stems and is good to use when a green growth of any kind is wished.

In bone meal we find the phosphorus necessary to aid in the development of fine and many flowers, to expand root growth and to hasten maturity. It works slowly, so can be applied to the ground about a plant early in the season, and will be available in the ground the following year if enough is used. Equal parts of nitrate and bone meal can be used at the rate of one to two pounds to every one hundred square feet.

Potash is almost off the market, as a result of the war, the main supply being imported from Germany. It can be obtained from hardwood ashes, and every bit of these should be saved for the garden and stored in a dry place where they will not become leached out by the action of water.

_April Spraying._--Snowball bushes and others that have been troubled with aphides, or plant lice, the previous year should receive a thorough spraying of Black Leaf No. 40 (an extract of forty per cent. nicotine) before the leaf buds expand. For this early spraying, two tablespoonsful of the extract can be used to every gallon of water. It will stick to the branches better if some soap is dissolved in it. This spray will kill most of the eggs of these pests, which will be found near the leaf buds. When the leaves open another spraying should be given to kill all those that escaped the first treatment. For spraying after the leaves open use one tablespoonful to each gallon of water.

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Meeting of the Minnesota Garden Flower Society, April 27th, St. Paul, Wilder Auditorium, Fifth and Washington Streets, 2:30 p.m.

Native Plants in the Garden Shall We Collect or Grow Our Native Plants? Roadside Planting.

BEE-KEEPER'S COLUMN.

Conducted by FRANCIS JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University Farm, St. Paul.

Bees are kept both for profit and for pleasure. The old fashioned beekeeper with his hybrid bees, kept in immovable hives, logs or boxes, did not derive much profit from his bees. He kept them mostly for pastime. During the last fifteen years men with new methods of management and modern equipment have been rapidly superseding the picturesque old beekeepers. Modern beekeeping courses are now taught in connection with our institutions of learning, and young men full of energy and ambition are beginning to realize that beekeeping is offering one of the few opportunities to make a comfortable living with a comparatively small expense. Older beekeepers, both on the farm and professional men, also are beginning to study beekeeping. They attend short courses, subscribe to scientific bee papers and study bee literature. With increased study and knowledge the whole status of the beekeeping industry is just now undergoing a rapid change. Professional beekeepers, men who devote their whole time to beekeeping, are increasing, and more amateurs are turning to professional beekeeping every year. Organizations of beekeepers now exist in nearly every state. Their object is to spread knowledge among their members and to secure better prices for their product by co-operative marketing. Contrary to fears of more conservative beekeepers the demand for a first class article of honey is increasing more rapidly than the supply. A national organization of beekeepers and bee societies is taking up just now national problems in connection with their industry and has succeeded in making the government interested in this "infant industry." An appropriation of $200,000 has just been allowed by the agricultural committee of the Congress to develop beekeeping in localities where help is needed. The state of Minnesota allows an annual appropriation for beekeeping interests of $10,000, divided among the following branches: Bee inspection department, which takes charge of bee diseases, $2,000; state fair exhibits for premiums and maintenance of a bee and honey building in connection with our State Fair, $1,500. The Division of Bee Culture at the University Farm, which has charge of teaching, demonstration, extension work, research, queen rearing, correspondence, statistics and model apiaries, $6,500. Minnesota beekeepers should be grateful to those men who have helped them to raise their industry from a mere nothing, until we have become the acknowledged leaders in beekeeping among all the states of the Union. They, however, are rapidly following, nearly all states now have efficient bee inspection laws, and twelve universities have followed our lead and have included beekeeping in their curriculum.

But we must not be satisfied with what we have accomplished. Out of $14,000,000 worth of honey which this state produces (by figuring) only $1,000,000 worth are gathered every year, and beekeeping in the state must grow to fourteen times its present proportions before it will be anywhere near its possibilities.

ORCHARD NOTES.

Conducted monthly by R. S. MACKINTOSH, Horticulturist, Extension Division, University Farm, St. Paul.

Minnesota orchardists are preparing for a full crop of apples this year. From the experiences of last year with apple scab and codling moth, more thorough spraying is to be done. Senator Dunlap stated an experience he had in spraying that should be carefully considered by all apple men. Nine rows of trees were sprayed on Monday or Tuesday. Owing to bad weather the other rows could not be sprayed until Friday or Saturday. What was the result? He had 175 barrels of No. 1 fruit from first part and only seventeen barrels of No. 2 in rows sprayed later. Some are planning their orchard work for the season along the following lines:

_First: Pruning._ To be done during the mild weather in March and April. Thin out all dead wood, interlocking branches, water-sprouts and shorten others. Pruning is to get the tree into better form to sustain a large load of fruit, to open the center to permit sunlight to get in to color fruit, and to permit of better spraying. There are too many trees in Minnesota that have never been touched by knife or saw. Such trees need attention, but the pruning should not be too severe at any one time. Begin this year to do a little pruning; next year do more; the year after a little more; and after that very little attention will be needed to keep the tree in good condition.

While pruning look out for rabbit and mouse injury. If good trees have been injured do some bridge grafting as soon as you can. This means connecting the healthy bark above the wound with the healthy bark below. Small twigs cut from the same tree, that are long enough to span the wound, are cut wedge shaped on both ends, and these ends put under the healthy bark. If possible cover the wounded area with earth. If too high up tie the scions in place and cover all cut surfaces with grafting wax and cloth. Several scions should be put in if the tree is large.

_Second: Spraying._ Three sprayings are needed on every bearing apple tree in Minnesota.

First spray: When the center of buds show pink. Don't wait too long.

Second spray: When the petals have fallen.

Third spray: Ten to fifteen days after the second.

Use lime-sulphur and arsenate of lead each time. It is important to do this at the right time, in the right way, and with the right materials. Right is the word and not left-undone. Further particulars will be found on the page devoted to spraying topics.

_Third: Cultivation._ Follow the plan that is best suited to location. This may mean sod, part sod and cultivation, cultivation and mulch, mulch only, or cultivation and cover crop. Doubtless the last is the best in most instances.

_Fourth: Thinning._ The thinning of apples in Minnesota has not been received with as much consideration as its importance demands. More attention will be given to this topic in subsequent issues.

HOME GARDEN.

What about the farm and home garden for 1916? Is the garden to receive the undivided attention of one or more members of each family, so that all members and guests may share its fruits? Let's make the home garden the best spot on every Minnesota farm in 1916. A conservative estimate of the actual value of the products from a half-acre garden is fifty dollars. In Minnesota there are over 150,000 farms. This would mean a total value of over $7,000,000. This does not include the value of the products of the village and city gardens. Careful estimates made in this state show that it costs about fifteen dollars for man and horse labor to take care of a garden of about three-fourths of an acre. Now for a BIG GARDEN MOVEMENT this year--for all the year. Not a big beginning kept up until the little weeds become big weeds. Is anyone going to allow weeds to outdo him?

NOTES ON PLANT PESTS.

Prepared by Section of Insect Pests, A. G. RUGGLES, and by Section of Plant Diseases, E. C. STAKMAN, University Farm.

Buy spray materials as soon as possible. The orchardist will probably notice very little difference in the price of his spraying materials, like arsenate of lead and lime-sulphur, as compared with last year; but those who still think that Paris green is the only good stomach insecticide, will be astounded by this year's price. At the present time, in one pound lots, the retailer cannot sell Paris green for less than 50c per pound--over twice what it was last year. In large quantities, it is doubtful if it can be purchased for less than 45c per pound. Fortunately arsenate of lead, a better stomach insecticide than Paris green, has not advanced materially in price, the powdered form being obtained for about 25c per pound. One and one-half pounds of this powder is used in fifty gallons of spray mixture. In our experiments, we have found arsenate of lead superior to Paris green as a remedy for potato bugs and all orchard insects. It is not necessary, therefore, to allow any injurious biting insect to live simply because Paris green is high in price. Arsenate of lead, if properly applied at the right time, will keep any of these insects in check.

A dormant wash does little good in controlling scab. Hence, on account of the high price of spraying compounds, do not spray when unnecessary.

Many diseases of nursery stock are controlled by spraying. Begin spraying as soon as leaf buds unfold, with lime-sulphur 1-40 or Bordeaux mixture 4-4-50.

Copper-sulphate has also advanced 15c or 16c per pound. Lime-sulphur has not advanced materially; therefore, plan to use lime-sulphur or some of the made-up (paste) Bordeaux instead of Bordeaux mixture, whenever possible. _Potatoes can not be sprayed with lime-sulphur._

The aphis problem is usually a very serious one, because they are such persistent little breeders. The trees or shrubs most affected are roses, snowball, currant, apple, plum and elm. The eggs of the plant lice pass the winter on the bark or buds of these plants and hatch as the buds begin to swell. Spray with the lime-sulphur (1-9) at this time. As soon as the leaves appear, spray with nicotine-sulphate as per directions on the container.

If plum pocket was bad last year, the trees should be thoroughly pruned. Then spray with copper-sulphate, one pound to nine gallons of water, or lime-sulphur, one gallon with nine gallons of water, before the buds open. Follow with one to forty lime-sulphur or other spray as for brown rot. Control methods for plum pocket are not well worked out, so these methods cannot be depended upon entirely.

Be sure and look over the apple trees carefully; cut out and burn all cankers. Black rot has been increasing in the state, and since a great deal of early infection may come from cankered limbs, it is important that cutting out and burning be resorted to.

Last year the spring canker worm was just as active in the state as the fall canker worm; therefore, just as soon as possible, trees affected last year should be banded with the tree tanglefoot. The moths come out of the soil the first two weeks in April and at that time attempt to crawl up the trunks of the trees to lay their eggs on the limbs.

When raspberries are uncovered, be sure to cut out and burn all dead canes missed last fall. The gray bark disease and anthracnose, also snowy tree cricket and red-necked cane borer, are controlled in this way.

Plan to keep the young canes covered with a protective spray of resin-Bordeaux mixture. Try it on at least part of the patch. The benefit will not be apparent for a year.

Spray currants and gooseberries as soon as leaf buds begin to unfold, with either Bordeaux mixture 4-4-50 or lime-sulphur 1-40, to prevent powdery mildew and leaf spots.

For further information write to the section concerned. Inquiries will receive prompt attention.

SECRETARY'S CORNER

ANNUAL MEETING OF AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF NURSERYMEN.--Information has reached this office to the effect that this national association will hold its annual meeting in Milwaukee June 28th to 30th. This is so near by that it ought to bring a goodly number of Minnesota nurserymen in attendance. For particulars in regard to the matter address John Hill, 204 Granite Bldg., Rochester, N.Y.

PASSING OF HANS KNUDSON.--Mr. Knudson, late of Springfield, Minn., was the originator of the Compass cherry, which has been generally planted throughout the Northwest these recent years. He grew this variety from a seed as a result of a handmade cross between the Miner plum and the sand cherry. Mr. Knudson had other seedlings of similar origin which we thought might be of value, but nothing has been since heard from them. News of his passing early in January has just come to this office.

THE MCINTOSH RED.--I think the McIntosh is quite hardy as a top-worked tree; there are two in my old orchard set in 1894, and they have shown no signs of injury. They were grafted on crab whips, but they were planted on a knoll, that while clay was within twelve to fifteen inches of a deep bed of sand. They have been shy bearers, but I think on a clay subsoil, such as I now have, they might prove good bearers. I would not be afraid to risk them as to hardiness.--F. W. Kimball, Waltham, Minn.

REPORTS FOR MINNEAPOLIS MEMBERS.--Every member of the society is entitled to a copy of the annual report if desired. As there are not as many copies printed, however, as there are members, if every one asked for a copy we should be in trouble at once. Copies are mailed as promptly as possible after receiving membership fee to all members except those living in Minneapolis and those who come in as members of some auxiliary society. Minneapolis members are requested to call at the society office and secure the copy to which they are entitled, which will then get into their hands in a good deal better shape than though it passed through the postoffice. Members of auxiliary societies are entitled to a copy of the report, but only upon the prepayment of postage, which would be seven cents to points within 150 miles of Minneapolis and ten cents outside that limit.