CHAPTER XXIX

NATIVE AND OTHER HARDY EVERGREENS

Rambling about the country in winter, one becomes more and more impressed with the beauty of our native evergreen trees and shrubs. Seven names comprise them all--Yew, Holly, Scotch Fir, Spruce, Juniper, Box, and Ivy. Even of these the Scotch and Spruce Firs (commonly so-called, though the Scotch is a Pine) are doubtful natives, though so long acclimatised that they may be classed with our own. Those who are laying out new grounds on a large scale would do well to plant these grand things in plenty; indeed, in the case of any new planting that is taken in hand, unless the owner has a good knowledge of shrubs and some taste in their choice and disposition, a planting of these alone would save him from many a regrettable mistake, and from the prospect of the usual senseless jumble of mixed shrubbery that has hopelessly spoilt thousands of gardens.

No foreign shrubs can compare with or take the place of our Yews and Hollies. However large a collection of exotics may be in a well-stocked arboretum, a winter walk among them only shows that there is nothing more cheerfully handsome than our Hollies, or more solemnly dignified than our Yews. On dry, sandy soils no Conifer is better for England than the Scotch Fir; or for moist, loamy regions and valley bottoms none is better than the Spruce. Exception is sometimes taken to the Spruce; and when planted in other than the place it likes it is, indeed, a wretched object, as on dry and hilly grounds. But a mass of Common Spruce in a cool, alluvial bottom is a picture of well-being, and no one can deny their majesty on alpine hillsides. The Douglas Fir is sometimes recommended in its stead, but this beautiful and quick-growing tree must still be regarded as an experiment. There is not as yet a single old Douglas Fir, and there are some among our botanical experts who are yet in doubt whether, for all its young vigour, it will be a lasting tree for our country. For dry uplands in light soil there is the lovely Juniper, best of all its kind (though often in nurseries foreign ones only are offered to its exclusion), and for chalky soils and loams the Box luxuriates, and can be used as a small tree, as well as in its usual bush form.

The use of Common Ivy should not be forgotten. Tree or bush ivies are amongst the most beautiful and effective of winter plants, all flowering from October to January. A noble evergreen is the tree form of _Ivy amurensis_.

In Ireland we have the Arbutus _Unedo_, and _A. Andrachne_ is a tree once seen will always be remembered; its coloured bark is very beautiful.

IMPORTANCE OF A SUITABLE CLIMATE.--Evergreen shrubs luxuriate generally in the climate of the British Isles, especially in the southern and western counties, and constitute one of the great glories of the English garden, delighting in these sea-bound islands, with their cool and moist atmosphere.

It has been established, therefore, that the evergreen seeks an equable climate, free from extremes of cold and heat, and with an even supply of moisture to both leaf and root, favouring in a marked degree the sea-coast with its salt-laden winds. As we travel south, so opportunities for growing an increasing variety of evergreen trees and shrubs become more apparent, until, in the south of Cornwall and the south-west of Ireland, things may be planted out with safety which towards the midlands and north would scarcely exist. But latitude is not everything, and easily proved so by the rude vigour of plants from New Zealand and the Himalayas that are happy in the north of Scotland, but failures in the midlands and further south of England, requiring the protection of glass to develop their characteristic beauty.

The place for the tender evergreens must be protected from dry north and east winds. Mr. Bean writes me: "One of the most striking examples I have met with of the importance of having a situation such as is described is the Duchess' garden at Belvoir Castle. Belvoir is in the eastern midlands, a district where the average temperature is certainly not high, and where, during my stay there, the thermometer fell on more than one occasion to zero (Fahr.). Yet in this particular spot (known as the Duchess' garden) there were fine specimens of Himalayan Rhododendrons--one of _R. Falconeri_ being especially noteworthy for the way it grew and flowered--an _Azara microphylla_, 16 feet high, and other similar examples. The explanation of these successes, I believe, is entirely in the situation and exposure of the garden. It was formed on the slope of a rather steep hill, and is in the shape of an amphitheatre opening freely to the south. The bitter 'north-easter' loses much of its sting before it reaches the plants in this garden. In most gardens it is, of course, impossible to obtain sites so favourable as this. One has to make the best of what exists. But at the same time it shows the desirability, often the necessity, of choosing positions for the tenderer evergreens in which this need of shelter is satisfactorily met. Bamboos, Camellias, many Rhododendrons, Elæagnus, all afford striking examples of the value of a shelter belt on the north and east sides." A cool, moist soil is generally necessary for evergreen shrubs, and we know this to be true from the distress shown by many kinds during a dry and parching summer.

THE TIME TO TRANSPLANT.--Early autumn, but much depends upon the previous weather. It often happens that evergreens cannot be lifted through a dry soil. The same trees after winter rains may be moved with ease and safety in April or May. An evergreen should be disturbed whilst the roots are active, and by doing this in September the shrub can establish itself before winter--hence the object of waiting until late spring, when autumn has been missed, as root growth has again begun. Autumn is a season generally of much atmospheric moisture, grateful dews, and welcome rains. It is the season for planting in general, and seldom is the work seriously disturbed until Christmas is past. We have shifted many evergreens without one failure in April and quite late in May, but our anxieties are great when the life-giving rains refuse to refresh the earth. The spring of 1901 will never be forgotten as a season of dry winds and brilliant sunshine, without rain to temper the unfortunate conditions, and the result was a great loss amongst newly planted evergreens. Mr. Bean says: "Some evergreens can with reasonable care be moved with perfect safety at any time, except perhaps from July to September. Rhododendrons are an example. During the last ten years I have transplanted them in every month of the year, except July and August. Indeed, in the case of Rhododendrons and most evergreen ericaceous plants, the problems of transplanting scarcely arise, simply because the fine fibres hold the soil so completely that the root system can, with due care, be removed practically intact. For the same reasons, very careful transplanting, such as is practised with a transplanting machine, may also be done at almost any season.

"When the roots of large evergreen shrubs have been unavoidably damaged, it is often a good plan to remove a portion of the leafy branches. This helps to restore, in some measure, the balance between root and top. The shrub will frequently do this itself. Hollies, for instance, often lose a large proportion of their leaves after transplanting in spring; it is one of the surest signs of success, just as the _shrivelling_ of the leaves on the branches is the worst. Evergreen oaks also furnish other examples." A difference of opinion exists as to removing any of the leafy branches. A great authority writes me: "Keep on all the foliage you can. I have seen this succeed with large deciduous trees."

Remember that Evergreen oaks planted in late spring or in summer should receive a thorough soaking of water once, then no more until new growth begins. _Syringe freely three times a day in hot weather._ I once saw a yew hedge that had been planted in mid-winter, the wrong time; it was looking rather brown through exposure to March winds. The time I refer to (April) a man was pouring water into the roots and the result was that nearly all these fine plants died. Had he damped the foliage twice or thrice a day instead they would have all lived. It is important in the case of newly planted yew and holly hedges to protect by screens of spruce boughs secured to a hurdle or any other material suitable at hand to assist the plants until they have started into growth.

PRUNING.--This is a great advantage to all Evergreens in moderation; the majority, if left to their own will, become straggling in growth and unsightly.

Evergreens differ from deciduous plants in regard to time of pruning. Most deciduous things may be pruned at any time between the fall of the leaf and the recommencement of growth in spring. But evergreens should never be pruned in late autumn or winter. For plants that are grown merely for foliage sake and not for the flowers, pruning should be done just as new growth is commencing. In the case of flowering shrubs like Rhododendron or Berberis it should be done as soon as the flowering season is past.

Rhododendrons are improved by pruning, but the pruner must know something of the varieties and their growth. _Berberis stenophylla_ gains in beauty by severe pruning, thinning out and cutting back after flowering is over. It helps the plant to make those long, drooping growths which are so beautiful in spring.

CLIMBING EVERGREENS.--One of the peculiarities of the evergreen class of plants is the marked absence of climbing species in cool temperate countries--that is, true climbers, not, the numerous things that are made to do duty as such on walls. If one takes up a tree and shrub catalogue of even the best nurserymen, one is struck by the few evergreen climbers offered. In spite of the fact that the cool, temperate regions of the earth have been so thoroughly ransacked during the last century, no plant has ever been found that equals or even approaches in value the Common Ivy and its varieties for the special purposes for which they are adapted. The best that are available are the Jasmine, _Ercilla volubilis_ (_Bridgesia spicata_), Smilax, _Clematis calycina_, and tenderer things like Lardizabala and _Passiflora cærulea_.

Evergreens as a whole are much neglected in ordinary gardens. Instead of drawing upon the great wealth of shrubs available, so many go on using the same old things over and over again, generally Aucuba, Portugal and Cherry Laurels, _Rhododendron ponticum_, and such like.

THE HOLLY is one of the most beautiful of all evergreen shrubs, and many varieties are not known, _Ilex Wilsoni_, for example, and _Laurifolia nova_ (_Camelliæfolia_) which is very distinct from the former. The best of the Hollies, _Hodginsii_ (syn. _Shepherdii_), _Marnockii_, _Hendersonii_, _platyphylla_, _fructu-luteo_ (yellow-berried), _Handsworthensis_, _Laurifolia_, _Maderensis atrovirens_, which are all green-leaved varieties. Of variegated varieties, very beautiful are Golden Queen and Silver Queen, Handsworth Silver, _Argentea marginata_, and Mme. Briot. _Watereriana_ (Waterer's dwarf golden) makes an excellent little bush, with smooth leaves blotched and edged with yellow.

THE BEST EVERGREENS.--The following is a representative list of the hardier species of evergreens which are considered most deserving of attention, and I have roughly grouped them according to their size. Conifers are not included. There is, of course, considerable difference in the sizes to which evergreens attain, according to the climate in which they are growing. The grouping here is merely intended to give an approximate idea of their habit. Those marked with an asterisk (*) are the more tender ones, and although valuable in the southern and warmer parts of the country, have not been grown in the colder localities, or if so, against a wall.

(i.) TREES

Common Box and varieties, especially Handsworthensis, which is exceptionally hardy. The variety pendula is very handsome in the shrubbery and Japonica aurea is one of the finest shrubs ever introduced for giving colour to the garden in winter. This plant should be pruned in spring to get the full rich colouring.

Common Holly and varieties, especially such superb varieties as, of the large-leaved varieties, Wilsoni, Mundyi, Shepherdi, Camelliæfolia (syn. latifolia) nova, Marnocki, Madeirensis, and Hendersoni. The best small-leaved sorts are Handsworthensis, tortuosa, ovata, crenata, crenata latifolia and Doningtonensis. Of variegated sorts choose Golden Queen, Compacta aurea, Marginata, Handsworth Silver, Argentea marginata and grandis.

*Magnolia grandiflora.

Quercus Ilex (Holm Oak), laurifolia and Fordi. The Fulham Oak, not quite evergreen, but a beautiful tree.

Yews (Taxus), Dovastoni, Dovastoni variegata, hibernica, hibernica aurea variegata, grandis, ericoides, cuspidata, elegantissima, lævigata, adpressa, and adpressa aurea variegata.

(ii.) TALL SHRUBS (say 8 feet or more high)

Arbutus hybrida and varieties. ,, Menziesii. ,, Unedo. ,, Andrachne, very fine. *Azara microphylla. Camellia japonica varieties. Cotoneaster buxifolia, horizontalis (Davidii), microphylla, and angustifolia. Cratægus Pyracantha, and the variety Lælandi. *Laurus nobilis (Sweet Bay), L. latifolius. Ligustrum lucidum, japonicum. Prunus lusitanica (Portugal Laurel). Prunus Laurocerasus (Common or Cherry Laurel). Quercus acuta. ,, coccifera (Kermes Oak). ,, phillyræoides. Rhododendrons, garden varieties. ,, catawbiense. ,, Fortunei.

(iii.) MEDIUM SIZED SHRUBS (3 feet or more)

Aucuba japonica vars, male and female, green-leaved sorts, very fine. Berberis Aquifolium and vars. ,, buxifolia. ,, Darwinii. * ,, japonica. ,, stenophylla. ,, wallichiana. *Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange Flower). Cistus laurifolius. Daphne purpurea. Elæagnus macrophyllus. ,, pungens and vars. *Erica arborea. * ,, australis. * ,, lusitanica. Erica mediterranea, Vulgaris, Alporti, Hammondii, multiflora, and rubrum. Escallonia philippiana, E. rubra. *Eucryphia pinnatifolia. Euonymus japonicus. *Garrya elliptica. Ilex cornuta. Kalmia latifolia. Ligustrum japonicum. Olearia Haastii. Osmanthus ilicifolius. Phillyræa decora. ,, latifolia. Pieris floribunda. ,, japonica. Raphiolepis ovata. Rhamnus Alaternus and vars. Rhododendron azaleoides. ,, ponticum. ,, myrtifolium. Skimmia japonica, oblata and Formani, fine varieties. Ulex europæus flore pleno (Double Gorse, Furze, or Whin). Veronica Traversii. Viburnum Tinus and vars. (Laurustinus). Yucca angustifolia. ,, gloriosa. ,, recurvifolia.

(iv.) DWARF SHRUBS (under 3 feet)

Andromeda polifolia. ,, floribunda. Azalea amoena. Bruckenthalia spiculifolia. Bryanthus empetriformis. Butcher's Broom. Calluna vulgaris and vars. (Heather, Common Ling). Cotoneaster microphylla. ,, rotundifolia. ,, thymifolia. Daboecia polifolia. Daphne Cneorum (Garland Flower). ,, oleoides. Diplopappus chrysophyllus. Erica carnea. ,, ciliaris (Dorset Heath). ,, cinerea (Scotch Heather). ,, mediterranea hybrida. ,, Tetralix (Bell Heather). ,, vagans (Cornish Heath). Euonymus radicans and vars. Gaultheria procumbens (Partridge Berry). ,, Shallon. Genista hispanica, G. pilosa. Hypericum calycinum. Kalmia angustifolia. ,, glauca. Ledum latifolium, palustre. Leiophyllum buxifolium. Pernettya mucronata and vars. Rhododendron ferrugineum. ,, racemosum. Vaccinium Vitis-idæa.

(v.) CLIMBERS AND TRAILERS

Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi. Hedera Helix and vars. (Ivy). The bush forms might be included, all of which flower in winter and have berries. Vinca major (Common Periwinkle). Vinca minor (Lesser Periwinkle).

It must not be forgotten that our British evergreens flourish in the coldest parts of Yorkshire in a climate that may be considered the most trying for vegetation in the British Isles. Hollies and Rhododendrons, where planting has been done on the hillsides, may be seen as quite large trees. The New Zealand Olearia Haasti may also be seen there--7 feet to 8 feet high and as much through.