Chapter 1

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TRAVELS THROUGH THE SOUTH OF FRANCE,

AND

IN THE INTERIOR OF THE PROVINCES

OF

PROVENCE AND LANGUEDOC, IN THE YEARS 1807 AND 1808,

BY A ROUTE NEVER BEFORE PERFORMED, BEING ALONG THE BANKS OF

THE LOIRE, THE ISERE, AND THE GARONNE,

THROUGH THE GREATER PART OF THEIR COURSE.

MADE BY PERMISSION OF THE FRENCH GOVERNMENT.

BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL PINKNEY, OF THE NORTH AMERICAN NATIVE RANGERS.

_LONDON_:

PRINTED FOR T. PURDAY AND SON, NO. 1, PATERNOSTER-ROW, AND TO BE HAD OF ALL BOOKSELLERS: BY B. McMILLAN, BOW STREET, COVENT GARDEN. 1809.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. I.

_Anxiety to see France--Departure from Baltimore--Singular Adventures of the Captain--Character--Employment during the Voyage--Arrival at Liverpool--Stay--Departure for Calais_

CHAP. II.

_Morning View of Port--Arrival and landing--A Day at Calais--French Market, and Prices of Provisions_

CHAP. III.

_Purchase of a Norman Horse--Visit in the Country--Family of a French Gentleman--Elegance of French domestic Economy--Dance on the Green--Return to Calais_

CHAP. IV.

_French Cottages--Ludicrous Exhibition--French Travellers--Chaise de Poste--Posting in France--Departure from Calais--Beautiful Vicinity of Boulogne_

CHAP. V.

_Boulogne--Dress of the Inhabitants--The Pier--Theatre--Caution in the Exchange of Money--Beautiful Landscape, and Conversation with a French Veteran_--_Character of Mr. Parker's Hotel_--_Departure, and romantic Road_--_Fete Champetre in a Village on a Hill at Montreuil_--_Ruined Church and Convent_,

CHAP. VI.

_Departure from Montreuil_--_French Conscripts_--_Extreme Youth_--_Excellent Roads_--_Country Labourers_--_Court for the Claims of Emigrants_--_Abbeville_--_Companion on the Road_--_Amiens_,

CHAP. VII.

_General Character of the Town_--_Public Walk_--_Gardens_--_Half-yearly Fair_--_Gaining Houses_--_Table d'Hotes_--_English at Amiens_--_Expence of Living_,

CHAP. VIII.

_French and English Roads compared_--_Gaiety of French Labourers_--_Breteuil_--_Apple-trees in the midst of Corn-fields_--_Beautiful Scenery_--_Cheap Price of Land in France_--_Clermont_--_Bad Management of the French Farmers_--_Chantilly_-_Arrival at Paris_,

CHAP. IX.

_A Week in Paris_--_Objects and Occurrences_--_National Library_--_A French Rout_--_Fashionable French Supper_--_Conceits_--_Presentation at Court_--_Audience_,

CHAP. X.

_Departure from Paris for the Loire_--_Breakfast at Palaiseau_--_A Peasant's Wife_--_Rambouillet_--_Magnificent Chateau_--_French Cure_--_Chartres_--_Difference of Old French and English Towns--Subterraneous Church_--_Curious Preservation of the Dead_--_Angers_--_Arrival at Nantes_,

CHAP. XI.

_Nantes_--_Beautiful Situation_--_Analogy of Architecture with the Character of its Age_--_Singular Vow of Francis the Second_--_Departure from Nantes_--_Country between Nantes and Angers_--_Angers_,

CHAP. XII.

_Angers_--_Situation_--_Antiquity and Face of the Town_--_Grand_ _Cathedral_--_Markets_--_Prices of Provisions_--_Public Walks_--_Manners and Diversions of the Inhabitants--Departure from_ _Angers_--_Country between Angers and Saumur_--_Saumur_,

CHAP. XIII.

_Tours_--_Situation and general Appearance of it_--_Origin of the Name of Huguenots_--_Cathedral Church of St. Martin_--_The Quay_--_Markets_--_Public Walk_--_Classes of Inhabitants_--_Environs_--_Expences of Living_--_Departure from Tours_--_Country between Tours and Amboise_,

CHAP. XIV.

_Lovely Country between Amboise and Blois--Ecures_--_Beautiful Village_--_French Harvesters--Chousi_--_Village Inn_--_Blois_--_Situation_--_Church_--_Market_--_Price of Provisions_,

CHAP. XV.

_Houses in Chalk Hills_--_Magnificent Castle at Chambord_--_Return from Chambord by Moon-light_--_St. Laurence on the Waters_,

CHAP. XVI.

_Comparative Estimate of French and English Country Inns--Tremendous Hail Storm_--_Country Masquerade_--_La Charite_--_Beauty and Luxuriance of its Environs_--_Nevers_--_Fille-de-Chambre_--_Lovely Country between Nevers and Moulins_-_Treading Corn_--_Moulins_--_Price of Provisions_

CHAP. XVII.

_Country between Moulins and Rouane_--_Bresle_--_Account of the Provinces of the Nivernois and Bourbonnois_--_Climate_--_Face of the Country_--_Soil_--_Natural Produce_--_Agricultural Produce_--_Kitchen Garden--French Yeomen--Landlords_--_Price of Land_--_Leases_--_General Character of the French Provincial Farmers_

CHAP. XVIII.

_Lyons_--_Town-Hall_--_Hotel de Dieu_--_Manufactories_--_Price of Provisions_--_State of Society_--_Hospitality to Strangers_--_Manners_--_Mode of Living_--_Departure_--_Vienne_--_French Lovers_

CHAP. XIX.

_Avignon_--_Situation_--_Climate_--_Streets and Houses_--_Public Buildings_--_Palace_--_Cathedral_--_Petrarch and Laura_--_Society at Avignon--Ladies_--_Public Walks-_--_Prices of Provisions_--_Markets_

CHAP. XX.

_Departure from Avignon_--_Olive and Mulberry Fields_--_Orgon_--_St. Canat_--_French Divorces_--_Inn at St. Canat_--_Aix_--_Situation_--_Cathedral_--_Society_--_Provisions_--_Price of Land--Marseilles_--_Conclusion_

A

TOUR,

&c. &c.

CHAP. I.

_Anxiety to see France--Departure from Baltimore--Singular Adventures of the Captain--Character--Employment during the Voyage--Arrival at Liverpool--Stay--Departure for Calais._

FROM my earliest life I had most anxiously wished to visit France--a country which, in arts and science, and in eminent men, both of former ages and of the present times, stands in the foremost rank of civilized nations. What a man wishes anxiously, he seldom fails, at one period or other, to accomplish. An opportunity at length occurred--the situation of my private affairs, as well as of my public duties, admitted of my absence.

I embarked at Baltimore for Liverpool in the month of April, 1807. The vessel, which was a mere trader, and which had likewise some connexions at Calais, was to sail for Liverpool in the first instance, and thence, after the accomplishment of some private affairs, was to pass to Calais, and thence home. I do not profess to understand the business of merchants; but I must express my admiration at the ingenuity with which they defy and elude the laws of all countries. I suppose, however, that this is considered as perfectly consistent with mercantile honour. Every trader has a morality of his own; and without any intention of depreciating the mercantile class, so far I must be allowed to say, that the merchants are not very strict in their morality. Trade may improve the wealth of a nation, but it most certainly does not improve their morals.

The Captain with whom I sailed was a true character. Captain Eliab Jones, as he related his history to me, was the son of a very respectable clergyman in the West of England. His mother died when he was a boy about twelve years of age, leaving his father with a very large family. The father married again. Young Eliab either actually was, or fancifully believed himself to be, ill-treated by his step-mother. Under this real or imaginary suffering he eloped from his father's house; and making the best of his way for a sea-port, bound himself apprentice to the master of a coasting vessel. In this manner he continued to work, to use his own expressions, like a galley-slave for five years, when he obtained the situation of mate of an Indiaman. He progressively rose, till he happened unfortunately to quarrel with his Captain, which induced him to quit the service of the Company. In the course of his voyages to India, and in the Indian seas, he made what he thought an important discovery relative to the southern whale fishery: he communicated it to a mercantile house upon his return, and was employed by them in the speculation. He now, however, became unfortunate for the first time: his ship was wrecked off the island of Olaheite, and the crew and himself compelled to remain for two or three years on that barbarous but beautiful island.

Such is the outline of Captain Eliab's adventures, with the detail of which he amused me during our voyage. His character, however, deserves some mention. If there is an honest man under the canopy of Heaven, it was Captain Eliab; but his honesty was so plain and downright, so simple and unqualified, that I know not how to describe it than by the plain terms, that he was a strictly just and upright man. He had a sense of honour--a natural feeling of what was right--which seemed extraordinary, when compared with the irregular course of his life. Had he passed through every stage of education, had he been formed from his childhood to manhood under the anxious supervision of the most exemplary parents, he could not have been more strict. I most sincerely hope, that it will be hereafter my fortune to meet with this estimable man, and to enumerate him amongst my friends. I must conclude this brief character of him by one additional trait. A more pious Christian, but without presbyterianism, did not exist than Captain Eliab. He attributed all his good fortune to the blessing of Providence; and if any man was an example that virtue, even in this life, has its reward, it was Captain Eliab. In dangers common to many, he had repeatedly almost alone escaped.

I had no other companion but the worthy Captain: I was his only passenger, and we passed much of our time in the reading of his voyages, of which he had kept an ample journal. His education having been rude and imperfect, the style of his writing was more forcible than pure or correct. I thought his account so interesting, and in many points so important, that I endeavoured to persuade him to give it to the public; and to induce him to it, offered to assist him, during our voyage, in putting it into form. The worthy man accepted my offer, but I found that I had undertaken a work to which I was unequal. I laboured, however, incessantly, and before our arrival had completed so much of it, as to induce the Captain to put it into the hands of a bookseller, by whom, as I have since understood, it was transferred into the hands of a literary gentleman to complete. In some misfortune the manuscript has been lost; and the Captain being in America, there is probably an end of it for ever. All I can now say is, that the public have sustained an important loss.

In this employment our voyage, upon my part at least, passed unperceived, and I was at Liverpool, before I was well sensible that I had left America. Nothing is more tedious than a sea voyage, age, to those whose minds, are intent only upon their passage. In travelling by land, the mind is recreated by variety, and relieved by the novelty of the successive objects which pass before it; but in a voyage by sea, it is inconceivable how wearisome are the sameness and uniformity, which, day after day, meet the eye. When I could not otherwise occupy my mind, I endeavoured to force myself into a doze, that I might have a chance of a dream. One of the best rules of philosophy is, that happiness is an art--a science--a habit and quality of mind, which self-management may in a great degree command and procure. Experience has taught me that this is true. I had made many sea voyages before this, and therefore had repeated proofs of the observation of Lord Bacon, that, of all human progresses, nothing is so barren of all possibility of remark as a voyage by sea; nothing, therefore, is so irksome, to a mind of any vigour or activity. If a man, by long habit, has obtained the knack of retiring into himself--of putting all his faculties to perfect rest, and becoming like the mast of the vessel--a sea voyage may suit him; but to those who cannot sleep in an hammock eighteen hours out of the twenty-four, I would recommend any thing but travel by sea. Cato, as his Aphorisms inform us, never repented but of two things; and the one was, that he went a journey by sea when he might have gone it by land.

The sight of land, after a long voyage, is delightful in the extreme; and I experienced the truth of another remark, that it might be smelt as we approached, even when beyond our sight. I do not know to what to compare its peculiar odour, but the sensations very much resemble those which are excited by the freshness of the country, after leaving a thick-built and smoky city. The sea air is infinitely more sharp than the land air; and as you approach the land, and compare the two, you discover the greater humidity of the one. The sea air, however, has one most extraordinary quality--it removes a cough or cold almost instantaneously. The temperance, moreover, which it compels in those who cannot eat sea provisions, is very conducive to health.

We reached Liverpool without any accident; and as the Captain's business was of a nature which would necessarily detain him for some days, I availed myself of the opportunity, and visited the British metropolis. No city has been more improved within a short period than London. When I saw it before, which was in my earlier days, there were innumerable narrow streets, and miserable alleys, where there are now squares, or long and broad streets, reaching from one end of the town to the other: I observed this particularly, in the long street which extends from Charing Cross to the Parliament Houses. In England, both government and people concur in this improvement.

From London, finding I had sufficient time, I visited Canterbury, and thence Dover. If I were to fix in England, it should be in Canterbury. The country is rich and delightful; and the society, consisting chiefly of those attached to the cathedral church, and to such of their families as have fixed there, elegant, and well informed, I have heard, and I believe it, that Salisbury and Canterbury are the two most elegant towns, in this respect, in England, and that many wealthy foreigners have in consequence made them their residence.

Dover is an horrible place--a nest of fishermen and smugglers: a noble beach is hampered by rope-works, and all the filth attendant upon them. I never saw an excellent and beautiful natural situation so miserably spoilt.

The Captain being ready, and my necessary papers procured, I joined, and having set sail, we were alternately tossed and becalmed for nearly three weeks, and almost daily in sight of land. Some of the spring winds in the English seas are very violent. A favourable breeze at length sprung up, and we flew before the wind. "If this continues," said our Captain, "we shall reach Calais before daylight." This was at sunset; and we had been so driven to sea by a contrary wind on the preceding day, that neither the coast of England nor France were visible. From Dover to Calais the voyage is frequently made in four hours.

Several observations very forcibly struck me in the course of my passage, one of which I must be allowed to mention. I had repeatedly heard, and now knew from experience, the immense superiority of the English commerce over that of France and every nation in the world; but till I had made this voyage, I never had a sufficient conception of the degree of this superiority. I have no hesitation to say, that for one French vessel there were two hundred English. The English fleet has literally swept the seas of all the ships of their enemies; and a French ship is so rare, as to be noted in a journal across the Atlantic, as a kind of phenomenon. A curious question here suggests itself--Will the English Government be so enabled to avail themselves of this maritime superiority, as to counterweigh against the continental predominance of the French Emperor?--Can the Continent be reconquered at sea?--Will the French Emperor exchange the kingdoms of Europe for West India Colonies; or is he too well instructed in the actual worth of these Colonies, to purchase them at any price?--These questions are important, and an answer to them might illustrate the fate of Europe, and the probable termination of the war.

I must not omit one advice to travellers by sea. The biscuit in a long voyage becomes uneatable, and flower will not keep. I was advised by a friend, as a remedy against this inconvenience, to take a large store of what are called gingerbread nuts, made without yeast, and hotly spiced. I kept them close in a tin cannister, and carefully excluded the air. I found them most fully to answer the purpose: they were very little injured when I reached Liverpool, and, I believe, would have sustained no damage whatever, if I had as carefully excluded the air as at first.

CHAP. II.

_Morning View of Port--Arrival and landing--A Day at Calais.--French Market, and Prices of Provisions._

THE Master's prediction proved true, and indeed in a shorter time than he had expected. An unusual bustle on the deck awakened me about midnight; and as my anxious curiosity would not suffer me to remain in my hammock, I was shortly upon deck, and was told in answer to my inquiries, that a fine breeze had sprung up to the south-west, and that we should reach the port of our destination by day-break. This intelligence, added to the fineness of the night, which was still clear, would have induced me to remain above, but by a violent blow from one of the ropes, I was soon given to understand that it was prudent for me to retire. The crew and ship seemed each to partake of the bustle and agitation of each other; the masts bent, the timbers cracked, and ropes flew about in all directions.

It may be imagined, that though returning to my hammock, I did not return to my repose. I lay in all the restlessness of expectation till day-break, when the Captain summoned me upon deck by the grateful intelligence that we were entering the port of Calais. Hurrying upon deck, I beheld a spectacle which immediately dispelled all the uneasy sensations attendant upon a sleepless night. It was one of the finest mornings of the latter end of June; the sun had not risen, but the heavens were already painted with his ascending glories. I repeated in a kind of poetical rapture the inimitable metaphoric epithet of the Poet of Nature; an epithet preserved so faithfully, and therefore with so much genius, by his English translator, Pope. The rosy-fingered morn, indeed, appeared in all her plenitude of natural beauty; and the Sun, that he might not long lose the sight of his lovely spouse, followed her steps very shortly, and exhibited himself just surmounting the hills to the east of Calais.

The sea was unruffled, and we were sailing towards the pier with full sail, and a gentle morning breeze. The land and town, at first faint, became gradually more distinct and enlarged, till we at length saw the people on shore hurrying down to the pier, so as to be present at our anchoring and debarkation. The French in general are much earlier risers than either the Americans or the English; and by the time we were off the pier, about seven in the morning, half of the town of Calais were out to receive and welcome us. The French, moreover, as on every occasion of my intercourse with them I found them afterwards, appeared to me to be equally prominently different from all nations in another quality--a prompt and social nature, a natural benevolence, or habitual civility, which leads them instinctively, and not unfrequently impertinently, into acts of kindness and consideration. Let a stranger land at an English or an American port, and he is truly a stranger; his inquiries will scarcely obtain a civil answer; and any appearance of strangeness and embarrassment will only bring the boys at his heels. On the other hand, let him land in any French port, and almost every one who shall meet him will salute him with the complacency of hospitality; his inquiries, indeed, will not be answered, because the person of whom he shall make them, will accompany him to the inn, or other object of his question.

I have frequently heard, and still more frequently read, that the English nation were characteristically the most good-natured people in the world, and that the Americans, as descendants from the same stock, had not lost this virtue of the parent tree. I give no credit to the justice of this observation. Experience has convinced me, that neither the English nor the Americans deserve it as a national distinction. The French are, beyond all manner of doubt, the most good-humoured people on the surface of the earth; if we understand at least by the term, _good-humour_ those minor courtesies, those considerate kindnesses, those cursory attentions, which, though they cost little to the giver, are not the less valuable to the receiver; which soften the asperities of life, and by their frequent occurrence, and the constant necessity in which we stand of them, have an aggregate, if not an individual importance. The English, perhaps, as nationally possessing the more solid virtues, may be the best friends, and the most generous benefactors; but as friendship, in this more exalted acceptation of it, is rare, and beneficence almost miraculous, it is a serious question with me, which is the most useful being in society--the light good-humoured Frenchman, or the slow meditating Englishman?

There was the usual bustle, as to who should be the bearers of our luggage; a thousand ragged figures, more resembling scarecrows than human beings, seized them from the hands of each other, and we might have bid our property a last farewell perhaps, had it not been for the ill-humour of our Captain. He laid about him with more vigour than mercy, and in a manner which surprised me, either that he should venture, or that even the miserable objects before us should bear. Had he exerted his hands and his oar in a similar manner either in England or in America, he would have been compelled to vindicate his assumed superiority by his superior manhood. Here every one fled before him, and yielded him as much submission and obedience, as if he had been the prefect himself.

The French seem to have no idea of the art of pugilism, and with the sole exception of the military, no point of honour which renders them impatient under any merited personal castigation. They take a blow with great _sang froid_. Whether from good humour, or cowardice; whether that they thought they deserved it, or that they feared to resent it, the single arm of our Captain chastised a whole rabble of them, and they made a lane for as many of us as chose to land, accompanied by such porters as we had ourselves selected. Three or four of them, however, were still importuning us to permit them to show us to an inn; but as we had already made our selection in this point likewise, our Captain returned them no answer, but by a rough mimickry of their address and gesticulation.

After our luggage had undergone the customary examination by the officers of the customs, in the execution of which office a liberal fee procured us much civility, we were informed that it was necessary to present ourselves before the Commissary, for that so many Englishmen had obtained admission as Americans, that the French government had found it necessary to have recourse to an unusual strictness, and that the Commissary had it in orders not to suffer any one to proceed till after the most rigid inquiry into his passport and business.