CHAPTER XI.

ON THE RIO NEGRO.

Difficulties of starting--Descending the falls--Catching an alligator--Tame parrots--A fortnight in Barra--Frei Jozé's diplomacy--Pickling a cow-fish--A river storm--Brazilian veracity--Wanawáca--Productiveness of the country--A large snake--São Gabriel--Sâo Joaquim--Fever and ague 218