Part 7

Having thus taken my leave, I began my Journey in the Month of _June_, and the Heat thereof was so excessive, that it cast me into a Fever. ’Tis true, it was a remiss and gentle one, yet it came every Day; to which was added an Hoarseness, and Defluction of Rheum from the Head, and it held me till I came to _Constantinople_.

The _Persian_ Embassador left _Amasia_ the self-same Day that I did, and we went both out of the City the same way; for, (as I told you before) there is but one Passage into, or out of, that Town, it is so shut in by the circumjacent and unpassable Hills: But the Way quickly doth divide into two, one to the _East_, which the _Persians_ took; and another to the _West_. which was our Road. In the open Fields about the Town, we saw the _Turkish_ Camp pitch’d, with abundance of Tents. I shall not entertain you with the Stages of my Return, they being the same with those of my Journey thither, only we made a little more Speed, and sometimes rode two Day’s Journey in one. In fine, we came to _Constantinople_, _June_ the 2d. You must needs think I had a troublesome Journey of it, having such a Companion with me, as a _Quotidian Ague_, all the way; so that, when I came thither, I was almost nothing but Skin and Bone: Yet, lean as I was, when I came to rest, and by the advice of _Quaquelben_, my Physician, used warm Baths, I quickly recovered. One thing I observed in the method of my Cure, that, when I came out of the warm Bath, he would sprinkle me over with cold Water, which, though it were troublesome to me at the present, yet I found that it did me much good.

Whilst I staid at _Constantinople_, there was a certain Person, that came from the _Turkish_ Camp in _Asia_, who told me a Story, which I shall acquaint you with, because it shows that the _Asiaticks_ are not very well pleased, either with the Religion, or the Government of the _Turks_. ’Twas this: _Solyman_, says he, as he was returning home, was forc’d to lodge one Night in the House of a certain _Asiatick_, and when he went away in the Morning, his Host brought a great deal of Perfume, and us’d a great many Ceremonies, to cleanse and purge his House, as if it had been polluted by such a Guest as _Solyman_; when _Solyman_ heard of it, he caused the Man to be slain, and his House to be levelled with the Ground. This Punishment the poor Man underwent for his Aversion to the _Turks_, and his Propensity to favour the _Persians_.

I staid about fourteen Days at _Constantinople_ to refresh my self, and then I entred on my Journey back again to _Vienna_: But I was entertain’d with an inauspicious Omen, even a very sad Spectacle; just as I was gone out of the Gates of _Constantinople_, I met whole Waggon-Loads of Boys and Girls, which were brought out of _Hungary_ to _Constantinople_ to be sold; no Merchandize is more frequent amongst them than that. For, as when we leave _Antwerp_, we meet with all sorts of merchantable Commodities importing into the Town, so here, ever now and then, there passed by us abundance of poor miserable _Christian_ Slaves, which were going to be sold in the Markets to a perpetual Bondage. There was no distinction of Age; Old and Young were driven in Herds, or Companies, or else were tied in a long Chain, as we use to tail Horses when we carry them to Fairs. When I beheld this woful sight, I could not forbear weeping and bemoaning the unhappy State of poor _Christendom_. And if that miserable Spectacle were not afflicting enough to a new Traveller, take another bad and mortifying Occurrence: My Collegues had recommended some of their Retinue to me, which were weary of living in _Turkey_, that they might be of my Train, in returning to their own Country. I granted their Request, and having travelled two Day’s Journey, I perceiv’d one that was Chief among them, (called a _Vaivode_, from his Office,) was carried sick in a Coach; one of his Feet being bare, without any Stockings, he would not suffer it to be covered, for he had in it a Plague-sore, which he found more easy to keep open. We were much troubled at this sight, as fearing that infectious Disease would spread farther; but the poor Man liv’d till we came to _Adrianople_, and there departed this Life. Upon his Death another Mischief did succeed; as soon as the Breath was out of his Body, the rest of the _Hungarians_ ran in greedily to the Prey, one caught up his Stockings, another his Doublet, a third his Shirt, a fourth his other Linnen; thus casting themselves, and us too, into a great deal of Danger. Nor was there any way in the World to hinder them.

’Tis true, my Physician, like an honest Man, ran in amongst them, and intreated them, for God’s sake, to throw the Things away, because they would infect us all; but they were deaf to his Advice. The Day after we left _Adrianople_, those very Persons came to him, and complain’d of a Pain in their Heads, with a dejection of their Spirits, and a Listlessness both of Body and Mind, and desired his Advice; he, suspecting the Symptoms of the Plague in the case, told them, they were well enough serv’d, for not harkening to his Counsel; yet he would do them what good he could, only, being on his Journey, he was unprovided of proper Medicines. The same Day I walked abroad into the Field, as I us’d to do, as soon as ever I came to my Inn, to see if I could find any thing worthy of my Notice in those Countries, where I met with an unknown Herb in the Meadow, which smelt like _Garlick_. After I had pluck’d some Leaves of it, I gave them to my Physician to know his Judgment; he looked wistly upon it, and told me, ’twas _Scordium_, and lifting up his Hands to Heaven, he gave God thanks for sending us so opportune a Remedy against the Plague; hereupon he gathers a great quantity of it, and putting it into a large Pot, boiled it over the Fire. Then he bid the _Hungarians_ take heart, and parted the Decoction amongst them, prescribing the taking of it very hot, as they were going to Bed, mix’d with some _Lemnian_ Earth, and _Diascordium_, and that they should not sleep till they had fallen into a great Sweat. Observing his Directions, the next Day after they were much better, and desired the same Portion again, and when they had drunk it, they grew perfectly well. And thus, by God’s Blessing, we avoided that Infection.

And yet, the residue of our Journey was not without Peril. After we had passed the Country of the _Thracians_ and _Bulgarians_, which reaches as far as _Nissa_, and came into the _Servians_ Country, reaching from _Nissa_ to _Simandria_, where the _Rascians_ Country begins; we came at last to _Belgrade_, the Weather being excessively hot and parching, for ’twas the hottest time of the _Dog-days_.

At _Belgrade_, upon one of our Fish-days, we were presented with abundance of choice Fish, and amongst the rest, with large full-bodied _Carps_, taken in the _Danube_, whose _Carps_ are very much commended: My People did eat very greedily of them, and that was either the cause, or the occasion, which cast many of them into a Fever; yet all that quantity of Fish, which was enough to satisfy forty Men, cost but half a Dollar; and the Truth is, other Things are as cheap. As for Hay, ’tis little or nothing worth; the Meadows are so laden with it, that every Man may take what he will, provided he pay for the Mowing and Carriage; which made us admire the Wisdom of the old _Hungarians_, after they had passed the _Save_, who chose so fertile a Country, as _Hungary_, to dwell in; where there were all manner of Conveniences for Human Life. We passed over a great Tract of Land, both beyond and on this side the _Save_, and we found the Grass, Barley, Oats and Wheat, almost parch’d and withered with Drought; but as soon as we entred _Hungary_, the Grass was so tall, that a Coach, that went before, could hardly be seen by another that came after; which is a great Argument of the goodness of the Soil.

The _Rascians_, as I told you before, begin at _Simandria_, and reach as far as the River _Drave_; they are reputed to be a fudling sort of People, and not very faithful to Strangers. Whence they had their Name and Original, I do not certainly know; but truly they were kind enough to us; we passed through some Villages of theirs of less Note, and at last arrived at _Esseck_, which is almost inclosed with muddy Marshes, and is famous for the slaughter of _Catzianerus_, and the overthrow of the _Christians_. Here I was taken with a _Tertian Ague_, I was so parch’d with Heat, in travelling the open Fields of _Hungary_; and at _Esseck_ we passed the _Drave_, and came to _Lasque_, where being weary with the Heat of my Journey, and my Ague, I laid me down to Rest. There the chiefest of the Place came to me to bid me welcome; and presented me with large Melons, Pears, and Plumbs of several Sorts, besides Wine, and other Provisions, all of them very good; the noted Country of _Campania_ in _Italy_ hardly bears better. In the Room where I lodged, there was a long Table all furnished with these Viands: My Servants desired the _Hungarians_ to stay to Supper, excusing my Absence, because of my Sickness. As soon as I awoke, and saw such a full-spread Table before my Eyes, I thought verily I had been in a Dream, and ask’d my Physician, how that came about? He told me plainly, that he himself had caused the Table to be furnished, that so the very Sight of it might refresh me. But must I not taste of it, said I? Yes, said he, but you must only taste; and so I eat a little of it, and seem’d to be much the better for it. The Day after the _Hungarians_ came to me again to present their Service, desiring me to represent their Condition to the Emperor, in regard of the Wrongs they received from some of their Neighbours. From thence we came to _Mohatz_, noted for the Overthrow and Death of _Lewis_ King of _Hungary_; not far from that Town, I saw a River whose Water was deep, and its Banks very steep; here that unhappy Prince leapt in with his Horse, and was drown’d, being for his Fall as much to be lamented, as for his Imprudence, in venturing with a small and newly rais’d Army of his Country-Men, to cope with the more numerous, veteran, and well-disciplin’d Forces of _Solyman_.

From _Mohatz_, we travelled on to _Tulna_, and from thence to _Felduar_. There I passed over the _Danube_, into an Island, pretty large, called _Cophis_, inhabited by _Rascians_; and so repassing the _Danube_, I arrived at _Buda_ twelve Days after I left _Belgrade_, _August_ the 4th, having lost many of my Horses by the way, who were choaked with eating new Barley, and drinking over-cold Water. Besides, I narrowly escaped Robbers, which these Countries are much infested with, especially by those they call _Heydukes_, some of which were afterwards taken, and put to death at _Buda_, where they confessed to the _Bashaw_ thereof, that they lay in wait for me and my Train, under a broken Bridge we were to pass, that so they might assault us unawares. The Truth is, a few may very easily circumvent and destroy a great many Passengers on such Bridges; for the Bridges are ill-built, and the Planks are set so wide, and gaping one from another, that you can scarce go over them safe on Horseback, without danger of falling, if you are never so careful; and if some meet you before, others will fall on your Rear, and others start out from the Reeds and Sedges below, where they hide themselves, and so accost you in the Flank, and you can hardly manage your Horse for Self-defence, by reason of the badness of the Bridge: No doubt you may be treated as the _Romans_ were in the _Caudine Streights_; be either taken, or killed, at Pleasure. I know not what it was that deterred them from assaulting us; whether it were our Numbers, or the Sight of the _Hungarians_ with us; or because we were in a long Train, and all were not on the Bridge at once; or whatever else it was that withheld them, by God’s Blessing, we got safe to _Buda_. The _Bashaw_ of the Town was not then at home; he was gone to _Pest_, on the other side of the River, where they had a Council of War, after the manner of the _Hungarians_, they call them _Rachi_. Many _Sanziacks_ were already come thither, but more were expected; for which Cause, when I desired Audience, ’twas put off for three Days, that the _Janizaries_ and military Persons might make a greater Show. Then I was sent for over, and conveyed to his Tent, where he made Complaints to me of the Injuries that some _Hungarians_ had done him. It is usual, in those frontier Garrisons, both for _Hungarians_ and _Turks_, mutually to complain of one another; yea, sometimes they, that are most in Fault, begin to complain first. The _Turkish_ Bashaw also added some threatning Expressions of Revenge. It may be, he thought that the Sight of his Army would terrify me; but he was mistaken. I answered him roundly, that the _Hungarians_ might rather find Fault with the _Turks_, than on the contrary; for I my self, in my Travels, had seen some of his Soldiers plunder some _Hungarians_, Subjects of his Imperial Majesty, and carry away their Goods. He answered me, he had indeed put some contumacious _Christians_ under military Execution; but they were such as were under his Master, not the Emperor. Thus, after a mutual Altercation, I was dismissed, being in very bad plight, for my Ague-Fit was strong upon me all that Day.

The Day after, I went to _Gran_, having a _Turkish_ Guard of Horse along with me. I had a mind to be wafted over the _Danube_, and for one Night to lodge in a Village over against the Castle of _Gran_, that the Day after I might come the sooner to _Commara_, and be better able to endure my Ague-Fit, which I expected that Day; and therefore I entreated that Favour of my Guide, that he would send some body over, to bring the Ferry-Boat, that was on the other Side, that so our Passage might be the easier. I found some Difficulty in having my Request granted; yet, partly to gratify me, and partly to acquaint the _Sanziacks_ with my Arrival there, he sent over two Persons. When they were gone an Hour before, they spied four Horsemen standing under a Tree, a little from the High-way-side. They judged them, by their Habits, to be _Turks_, and therefore turned aside to accost them; and, as they drew near, they ask’d them, What News? They answered not a Word; but made at them with their drawn Swords, and gave one of them such a Blow, athwart his Face, that he made the greatest Part of his Nose to hang down over his Chin; and then catching at his Horse, which he held by the Bridle, he left his own Beast, and mounting it, set Spurs, and away. The _Turks_ presently came back to us, especially he with the maim’d Face, and, with a woful Lamentation, bid us prepare for the Combat, for we were Way-laid. I, to encourage my Men, got presently on Horse-back; but we came too late, when the Scuffle was over; for they had more mind to preserve the Prey they had got, than to fight; and thereupon fled speedily to _Javarin_, a Garrison of ours, to which they did belong: The _Turks_ shewed them to us, as they were scouring over the neighbouring Hills that led to _Javarin_. Thus we came to _Gran_; the _Sanziack_ very friendly gave me a Visit, and, among other Discourse, he put me in mind of the Insolency of the _Hungarian_ Soldiers, who could not be kept from Thieving (said he) though you, the Emperor’s Ambassador, were in company of those they robbed; and therefore he desired of me, that the Horse they took away yesterday might be restored. In the mean Time, the _Turk_, that was wounded the Day before, stood without in the Entry, with his Nose sewed together, through which he made a lamentable Moan, desiring me to pity his Condition. I told him, I would give him what was enough for his Cure, and so I bestowed two Duckets upon him. He would have had more; but the _Sanziack_ told him, ’twas enough; his Misfortune was not to be charged upon me.

Being thus dismissed by the _Sanziack_, I came the same Day to _Commara_, where I expected my Ague-Fit; but when the usual Period of it drew near, I found it had left me, as if a Fever, got in _Turkey_, durst not accompany me into the _Christian_ Territories. Hereupon I gave God thanks, who had both freed me of my Ague, and had also brought me safe to the end of my long and tedious Journey.

Two Days after, I came to _Vienna_, where the Emperor _Ferdinand_, my most gracious Master, was not at present, only I found _Maximilian_, King of _Bohemia_, there in his Room; whole courteous Reception of me made me almost forget the Toil of my Journey. But I must tell you, I was so emaciated with my Sickness, and the Inconveniences of my Journey together, that many thought the _Turks_ had given me a poisonous Dose; for, truly, when I went lately to pay my Duty to the Arch-Duke _Ferdinand_, he asked one of his Domesticks, who I was? who answered, I was one that came lately from _Turkey_, and that it was no wonder I looked so ill, for they, who returned from those Parts, usually did so.

Perhaps he was willing to have it believed, that I had taken the Emperor _Claudius_’s Dose; but, for my part, I know of no such thing; neither do I question, but after resting a while, to recover the tediousness of my Journey, I shall look as well as ever I did: I find my self something mended already.

In the mean time, I acquainted the Emperor with my Return, by Letter, and of the half Year’s Truce I had obtained; and the sum of my whole Negotiation; and that, when he came home from the _Diet_, I would inform him of all Particulars more punctually and distinctly.

One thing more I shall acquaint you with. There were many Persons who refused to accompany me to _Constantinople_, either for Fear, or I know not what other Motive, who wished they had given me any Money to go along with me, now they saw me return in safety. But what says he in _Plautus_? _If you will eat the Kernel, you must take the Pains to break the Nut_: He does himself Wrong, that thinks to reap part of the Fruit, who took no part of the Pains.

Thus, Sir, I have given you an account of my Journey, both to _Constantinople_, and also to _Amasia_. I have not dress’d up my Narrative with Flowers of Rhetoric, but have presented you with it, just as I would have related it to you by Word of Mouth. I know you will bear with the Coarseness of my Style, it being occasioned by my over-eager Desire to gratify you; nor can you well expect Elegancy from me now in my Heat and Throng of Business, which I was never Master of in my greatest Retirements. This I assure you, both for your Information and my own Content, that I am not conscious to myself of any Falshood in the whole Narration, which is the principal Ornament of such Relations as these. Thus I bid you Farewell.

_Vienna, September 1st._

_SIR_,

I received your Letter, wherein you acquaint me, that you have heard of my second Voyage into _Turkey_; on which Account you express your Wonderment, that I would venture to visit that uncouth and barbarous Country, once more. And withal, you desire to know the Issue of my Journey: How I found Matters at my Return to _Constantinople_; what Entertainment I met with there; what proportion of Health I enjoy; whether my Life be pleasant to me, or not; and, in fine, what Hopes there may be of my speedy return to _Germany_. To all which you oblige me, upon the score of our ancient Friendship, to give particular and express Answers; which, to gratify you, I shall accordingly do.

Know then, in the first Place, that you were not mis-informed as to my Return into _Turkey_; the thing is most true: Neither could I avoid the Journey, as being oblig’d thereunto by Promise; and you know every honest Man is as good as his Word. My Case was this: The Emperor _Ferdinand_, my most gracious Lord and Master, designed me as his Lieger Ambassador to _Constantinople_; but his Design was grounded on this Supposition, that a Peace would be first settled betwixt the two Empires. Articles of Agreement, however, being not yet fully accorded to, nor wholly rejected, there was no reason I should slip my Neck out of the Collar, till the Matter was brought to some certain Issue; either a firm Peace, or a perfect Rupture. And therefore, when I foresaw what a Bushel of Troubles I should run my self into, by my Return, I had much rather a fitter Person had been substituted for the Employment; but no body being willing to accept the Charge, I was, in a manner, forced into the Service; it being my Duty to comply with, and obey, the Will and Pleasure of my gracious Master: For as soon as ever he return’d from the Imperial Diet to _Vienna_, and was informed by me of my Transactions with _Solyman_, the _Ottoman_ Emperor, he immediately laid his Commands upon me to prepare my self to return, and to carry back his Answer to _Solyman_’s Letters. ’Tis true, it was the depth of Winter, when I was commanded to return to _Constantinople_; and, besides, ’twas a very rainy, cold and tempestuous Season; and my Message too was so severe, that I was like to have no Thanks for my Labour. Here, perhaps, you may twit me in the Teeth, what! Twice to the same Place? To which I answer, twice, and oftner, if there be need; for commendable Enterprizes, the mere hazardous, the more Praise-worthy.

’Twas in _November_ when I left _Vienna_, to undertake my second Voyage to unhospitable _Pontus_. I will not grate your Ears with the Relation of the Enterprizes of my _second_ Journey: I was too vexatious, I fear, in giving you an Account of my _first_.