Travels into Turkey Containing the most accurate account of the Turks, and neighbouring nations, their manners, customs, religion, superstition, policy, riches, coins, &c.

Part 3

Chapter 33,942 wordsPublic domain

In which Verses, the Poet seems to intimate the Shallowness of that River for want of Water. For though it is a great and famous River, yet, in most Places it is fordable: For, I remember, in my return from _Constantinople_, we forded over it near _Philippopolis_, to an Island on the other Side, where we lay in Tents all Night; but it happened, that the Waters swelled that Night by reason of Rain, that next Morning we could not repass the River, to come into the Road, without a great deal of Trouble.

The City of _Philippopolis_ is situate on one of the three little Hills, disjoyned, and, as it were, rent from the rest of the Mountains, and is, as the Grace of those little Hillocks. While we were at _Philippopolis_, we saw Rice growing like Wheat, in the watry and marshy Grounds. The whole Plain, about the Town, is full of little round Hills of Earth, which the _Turks_ say, were raised on Purpose, as Monuments of the frequent Battles fought in those Fields, and the Graves such as were slain there. From hence, leaving the River _Hebrus_ something on the Right, and Mount _Hæmus_, which runs forth into _Pontus_, on the left, at last we passed over the _Hebrus_ on a famous Bridge, made by _Mustapha_, and so came to _Hadrianople_, which the _Turks_ call _Endrene_.

This City was formerly called _Orestia_, before the Emperor _Hadrian_ inlarged it, and called it by his own Name. It is seated at the confluence of the River _Mariza_ or _Hebrus_, and the two small Currents of _Thinsa_ and _Harda_, which there meeting in a joint Stream run into the _Egean Sea_. This City is not very large within the Walls; but, if you take in the Suburbs, and the Buildings which the _Turks_ have added without, it is very capacious.

We staid but one Day at _Hadrianople_, and then went forward on the last Stage of our Journey towards _Constantinople_. In my Way thither there grew abundance of _Narcissus’s Hyacinth’s_, and (as the _Turks_ call them) _Tulips_, which we beheld, not without Admiration, that in the midst of Winter, which is not favourable to such Flowers in other Countries, the Ground should be so garnished by them. As for _Narcissus’s_, and _Hyacinths_, all _Greece_ abound with them; and they are so odoriferous, that, by reason of their Multitude, they are offensive to those Heads that are unaccustomed to such Kind of Smells. But the _Tulip_, hath little or no Smell, but its gaudiness and party-colouredness is its greatest Commendation. The _Turks_ are great Admirers of Flowers, so that, though they are Parsimonious enough in other Cases, yet for a stately Flower, they will not scruple to give some _Aspers_. And the Truth is, these kind of Flowers, though they were presented to me as a Gift, yet they cost me a great deal of Money; for some _Aspers_ were always expelled in requital. Neither is there any other way of treating with a _Turk_, but by opening the Purse-strings, as soon as any _Christian_ comes among them; neither must he think to shut them again, till he go out of their Country: While he is there, he must scatter his Coin, and if he get no other Advantage by it, yet it makes them more tractable. For the _Turks_ are so ill-natured, and such under-valuers of all Nations but their own, that without this Open-handedness, there were no more living among them, for Strangers, than in the most desolate and uninhabited Places, by reason of the excessiveness either of Cold or Heat; but with the Bait of Liberality, you may catch a _Turk_ at any Time.

About the mid-way between _Hadrianople_ and _Constantinople_, there is a little Town, called _Chiurli_, memorable for the _Overthrow_ which _Selimus_ received in a Battle against his Father _Bajazet_, out of which he escaped by the Swiftness of his Horse, called _Carabonluch_, i. e. a _Black Cloud_, and so fled to the _Cham_, or the _Precopeian Tartar_, who was his Father-in-Law.

Before we came to _Selimbria_, which is a Town standing on the Sea-side in our Way, we saw the Ruins of an old Wall and Ditch, which were made by the later Emperors of _Greece_, which reached from that Sea to the _Danow_, to secure all that was contained within that Fortification to the _Constantinopolitans_, against the Incursions of the _Barbarians_; and there goes a Story, that when that Wall was a Building, a certain old Man delivered his Opinion to his Wife, _viz._ That that Wall would not so much secure what was within it, from the Hands of the Infidels, as it would expose and subject it to their Rage and Fury, in regard it would add Courage to the _Barbarians_ to assault it, and weaken the Courage of the _Grecians_ to defend it.

At _Selimbria_ we had a most pleasant Prospect of a calm Sea; and ’twas very pleasant to us to behold the smooth Water, and to gather Cockles on the Shore; yea, to behold Sholes of _Dolphins_ sporting in the Water, which, with the Warmness of the Air, was exceeding delightful. It can hardly be imagined, how mild the Weather was in those Parts, though sometimes it be a little more boisterous at _Chiurli_; but here there is, as I may call it, a _Thracian Gale_, and an incredible Sweetness of Air.

When we came near to _Constantinople_, we passed over two pleasant Arms of the Sea, upon a Bridge built over them. I may safely say, That if those Places were cultivated by Art, as they are naturally pleasant, the Sun never shone on a better Country; but, alas! they seem to mourn for the Neglect put upon them by the insulting _Barbarian_. Here we had our Fill of choice Sea-fishes, which were even taken in our Sight.

When I lodged in those Inns the _Turks_ call _Imaret_, I usually observed, that the Cracks of the Walls were all full of Pieces of Paper; and thinking something was the Matter, but not knowing what, I took out some of them, and finding nothing writ therein of any Consequence, I was more earnest to know of the _Turks_ the Reason of their so doing; especially as I had observed the same Thing in other Places of _Turkey_ before. At first they scrupled to tell me, as thinking perhaps that I would not believe them; or else, not being willing to impart so great a Mystery of Things to such an Alien as myself. This made me the more inquisitive, till at last some of them, with whom I became more familiar, told me, That the _Turks_ gave a great deal of Difference to Paper, because the Name of God may be written in it: And, therefore, they will not suffer the least Bit of Paper to lie upon the Ground, but presently they take it up, and thrust it into some Chink or Hole or other, that so it may not be trampled under Foot; and hitherto, perhaps, their Superstition may be tollerable, but mark what follows.

In the Day of Judgment, say they, when _Mahomet_ shall call up his Followers from their _Purgatory_, (to which they were condemned for their Sins) to Heaven, to be there made Partakers of Eternal Blessedness; there will no Way be left for them to come to their Prophet, but over an huge red-hot Iron Grate, which they must run over bare-foot, (how painfully, you may guess, when you imagine a Cock to skip thro’ hot-burning Coals.) But at that Instant, (believe it if you can!) all those Bundles of Papers, which they have preserved from being trod upon, will immediately appear, and put themselves under their Feet; by which Means they will pass the red-hot Iron-Grate with less Damage; so necessary do they count the Work of saving a little Paper. And, to add to the Story, I remember that my _Turkish_ Guides were once very angry with my Servants, for making use of Paper to cleanse their _Posteriors_, and thereupon made a grievous Complaint to me of their horrid Offence therein: I had no Way to put them off, but by telling them, ’twas no Wonder my Servants did such strange Things, seeing they also used to eat Swines Flesh, which the _Turks_ abhor. Thus I have given you a Taste of the _Turkish_ Superstition; I shall add, That they account it a damnable Sin, if any of their own People chance (though unwillingly) to sit upon the _Alcoran_, (which is a Book containing the Rites of their Religion) and, if a _Christian_ do it, ’tis Death by their Law. Moreover, they will not suffer _Rose-Leaves_ to lie upon the Ground, because, as the Ancients did fable, the Roses spring out of the Blood of _Venus_; so the _Turks_ hold, That it had its Rise from the Sweat of _Mahomet_.

I came to _Constantinople_ on the 20th Day of _January_, and there found my Collegues above-mentioned, _Anthony Wrantzius_ and _Francis Zay_; as for the _Grand Seignior_ himself, he was, at that Time, at the Head of his Army in _Asia_, and had only left at _Constantinople_, _Ebrahim Bashaw_, an Eunuch, as Governor of the City, and _Rustan_, but deprived of his Vizier-ship; however I gave him a Visit and made him Presents, as being mindful of his former Dignity, and of the fair Prospect there was of his speedy Restitution thereunto.

It may, perhaps, divert you, and besides it is not wholly foreign to my Design, to acquaint you how this _Rustan_ came to be strip’d of all his former Honours. Know then, That _Solyman_ had a Son, called _Mustapha_, on a Concubine of his, born by the _Bosphorus_, (if I mistake not.) This Youth was in the prime of his Age, and in great Favour among the Soldiers. But the same _Solyman_ had several other Children by _Roxolana_, whom he doated on so much, that he made her his Wife, by appointing her a Dowry; for that’s the Way of making and confirming a Marriage among the _Turks_. This _Solyman_ did, contrary to the Custom of former Emperors, none of which had ever married a Wife, since the Days of _Bajazet_ the Elder; the Reason was, because the said _Bajazet_, being overthrown by _Tamerlane_, was, with his Wife, taken Prisoner by him, where he suffered many Indignities, but none affected him more, than the Uncivilities and Reproaches which he saw offered to his _Sultaness_, before his Face. The Memory of which Affronts made such a deep Impression on all those that succeeded _Bajazet_ in the Empire, that, to this very Day, none of them will marry a Wife, that so, whatever Chance should happen, they might never fall into the like Indignity; so that, ever since, they beget Children on Women of a servile Condition, in whose Misfortunes they may be less concerned, than if they were their lawful Wives. And yet the Children begot on such Concubines, are as much esteemed by the _Turks_, as if they were born in lawful Wedlock, and they have as much right to their Fathers Estates.

So then, _Mustapha_, being of a promising Ingenuity, and in the Flower of his Age; and besides, being the Darling of the Soldiers, and the common People too, having so many favourable Circumstances attending him, he, after his Father’s Death, was by the Votes of all designed for his Successor in the Empire.

On the other Side, his Stepmother, _Roxalana_, with Might and Main, laboured to prevent it, and to secure the Empire for the Children begotten on her own Body, and thereupon presuming on her Marriage-Relation, she ceased not to disparage _Mustapha_, and to prefer a younger Son of her own before him. In this Design _Rustan_ was both her Counsellor, and Assistant; they drew both in one Yoke, for _Rustan_ having married a Daughter of _Solyman_’s, by _Roxalana_, their Interests thereupon were reciprocal.

This _Rustan_ was the Chief of the Bashaw’s, and _Solyman_’s Prime Vizier, having the chief Power and Authority with him: He was a Man of a sharp and very capacious Wit, and a great Grace to _Solyman_’s Government. As for his Original, he was the Son but of a Shepherd, and yet he seemed worthy of that Dignity to which he was advanced, if his sordid Avarice had not been a Blot in his Escutcheon. And to speak truly, _Solyman_ himself observed this Vice in him, though upon all other Accounts, he was his choice and only Favourite: And yet this Crime of his turned to his Master’s Advantage; for being appointed by _Solyman_ to preside over his Treasury, or Exchequer, which sometimes was very low, he was so thrifty in the Management of that Office, that he did not spare to raise Money, even by the meanest and most contemptible Ways. For he laid a Tax on Herbs, Roses, and Violets, which grew in great Men’s Gardens; he caused the Armour, Coats of Mail, Warrior’s Horses, of such as were taken Prisoners in War, to be sold, and by such Ways as those he got together such a Mass of Money, that _Solyman_ was very secure on that Part; upon this Occasion, I remember, that a great Man among the _Turks_, who are usually vindictive enough, that was a great Enemy to _Rustan_, yet (to my Surprize) told me, That he would do _Rustan_ no hurt, tho’ it were never so much in his Power, because his Care and Industry had advanced his Master’s Treasury to so prodigious a Sum. There is a Chamber in the _Seraglio_, at _Constantinople_, over which there is this Inscription, _Here is the Cash obtained by the Diligence of ~Rustan~_.

When _Rustan_ was Grand Vizier, and had the intire Administration of all Things in his Hands, he was able to turn his Master’s Mind, as he pleased, so that ’twas commonly reported among the _Turks_, That partly by the Accusation of _Rustan_, and partly by the Witchcraft of his Wife _Roxolana_, (for she was accounted little better than a Sorceress) _Solyman_ was so alienated from his Son _Mustapha_, that he took Counsel to put him to Death. As to what some alledge, that _Mustapha_ being sensible of the Designs of _Rustan_ and his Step-Mother _Roxolana_, against his Life, did labour to preserve them, by taking off his Father, and so seizing the Empire by force; very few do believe that Story, but look upon it as a Fiction.

On this Occasion, let me tell you, that the Sons of the _Turkish_ Emperors are the miserablest Creatures in the World; for if any one of them succeed his father in the Empire, the rest are inevitably put to Death by him. For the _Turks_ cannot endure any Corrival in Government; and besides they are egged on to this severity by their _Prætorian_ Bands, (_Janizaries_ and _Spahies_) who, as long as there is any one of the _Grand Seigniors_ Brothers alive, never cease craving of Largesses and Boons, and if the present Emperor refuses to grant them, they presently cry out, _God save your Brother, God send your Brother a long Life_; by which Words, they more than intimate their Wishes, that he were on the Throne. So that the _Turkish_ Emperors are in a manner compelled to put their Brethren to Death, and so begin their Reign with Blood. But _Mustapha_ was afraid of such a fatal end; or else _Roxolana_ was willing to translate the said Destiny from her own Children upon _Mustapha_: Upon one or other of these Grounds, it was, that _Solymon_ entertain’d the thought of putting his Son _Mustapha_ to Death. And the occasion fell out opportunely, for he had War at that Time, with _Sagthama_ King of the _Persians_, thither _Rustan_ was sent with a vast Army. When he drew near to the Borders of _Persia_, upon a sudden he made a stop, and wrote back fearful Missives to _Solyman_, telling him, _That the whole Empire was in great hazard, there was nothing but Treason studied in the Army, they all cry’d out ~A Mustapha! A Mustapha!~ yea, the Disease was grown to such a height, that ’twas past his skill to cure it; and therefore the Emperor himself must come immediately, if he would have the Crown sit safe on his Head._

_Solyman_ was mightily disturb’d at the News, and therefore posted away for the Army, and sends Letters to _Mustapha_ to come to him, to purge himself from those Crimes, whereof he was formerly suspected, but now openly accused; if he could do it, he told him, he need not fear to approach his Presence. Upon the Receipt of this Letter, _Mustapha_ was in a great Streight, if he should go to his Father, in such an angry Mood, he ran upon his Death; if he refused, that would be interpreted, as a plain Confession of the objected Crimes. Under this Dilemma, he resolved upon that course, which as it had more of Resolution in it, so it was fullest of Danger. Away goes he from _Amasia_, of which he was Governor, to his Father’s Camp, which was pitch’d not far from the place. This he did either out of confidence of his own Innocency, or else presuming on the Assistance of the Army, if any Severity were meditated against him; whatever was the Motive of his Journey, this is certain, that he run unavoidably upon his own Destruction; For _Solyman_ ever since he was at _Constantinople_, had resolved to put his Son to Death; and to make the Matter more plausable, he consulted the _Mufty_, (so the _Turks_ call the chief of their Priests, as _Romanists_ call theirs the Pope,) and that he might not speak to him in favour of _Mustapha_, he propounded to him a feign’d Case, thus, ‘There was a Wealthy Merchant at _Constantinople_, who having occasion to Travel a long Journey from Home, left the care of his Family, his Wife and Children, and all his Affairs to a Slave of his, in whose Fidelity he put a great deal of Confidence; now this Slave, immediately after his departure, designed to destroy his Masters Wife and Children, committed to his Care, and Embezil his Estate, and to work against his Masters own Life, in case he should ever get him into his Power; What may be Lawfully done, said he, to the _Mufty_, with such a Slave.’ _He deserves_ says the _Mufty_ _to be Rack’d to Death._ Whether he spoke really as he thought, or whither he did not do it to curry favour with _Rustan_ and _Roxolana_; This is certain, that the Resolution of the _Grand Seignior_ was greatly confirmed thereby to put his Son to Death, for he was of Opinion, _Mustapha_’s Offence against him, was as great, as that supposed Slaves against his Master. However it were, _Mustapha_ came into his Fathers Camp, the whole Army being very sollicitous about the event of their Congress.

Soon after he was brought into his Fathers Tent, where all things were hush; not a Soldier of the Guards to be seen, no Serjeant, no Executioner in view, nor nothing of Treachery that was visible; but when he was come into an inner Tent, Lo! upon a sudden, there started up four Mutes, strong and lusty Fellows to be his Executioners; they set upon him with all their strength and might, and endeavoured to cast a Cord about his Neck; he defended himself stoutly for a while, (for he was a Robust young Man,) as if he had contended not only for Life, but for the Empire. For without Question, if he had escaped that danger, and had come in among the _Janizaries_, they either out of Affection to him, whom they dearly Loved; or else moved with the Indignity of the Thing, would not only have saved his Life, but have gone near to have Proclaimed him Emperor: And that was the very thing, which _Solyman_ fear’d of all things in the World; and therefore perceiving, as he stood behind a Linnen Vail in the Tent to behold the Tragedy, that unexpected stop was put to his Bloody Design; he peep’d out his Head, and gave the Mutes such a sour and minacious Look, in reproach of their remisness; thereupon they assaulted him with renew’d Force, and then threw poor _Mustapha_ down on the Ground, and Strangled him; and after they had done, they carried his Corps out of the Tent, and laid it on a piece of Tapestry, that so the _Janizaries_ might behold their design’d Emperor.

As soon as the Matter was divulged, Commiseration and Grief seized on the whole Camp, and there was scarce a Man of any Consideration in the whole Army, that did not approach to behold so sad a Spectacle, especially the _Janizaries_, whose Confirmation and Rage was such, that they would have ventured to attempt any Manner of Mischief whatsoever, if they had had a Leader. As for him whom they hoped to be their Conductor, he lay dead on the Ground, and therefore now there was no Way but one, to take that patiently which was past all Remedy.

Thus they silently departed with blubber’d Eyes, and sad Hearts, to their Tents, where they both lamented and pitied the woful Fate of unhappy _Mustapha_, sometimes inveighing against the Madness and Rage of his old doating Father, at other Times exclaiming at the Fraud and Cruelty of his Step-Mother, and anon cursing the Wickedness of _Rustan_, with direful Imprecations for extinguishing so great a Light of the _Ottoman_ Family, so that all that Day was a Fasting-day to them, they did not sip so much as a drop of Water; yea, some of them continued their Abstinence for many Days after. In short, there was such a Face of Mourning over the whole Army, which was not like to cease in many Days, that _Solyman_ in Policy, and in a seeming Compliance with the Sentiments of his People, deprived _Rustan_ of his Office (it being thought by his own Consent) and Banished him, as a private Person to _Constantinople_, substituting _Achmat_ Bashaw to the _Grand-Vizier-ship_ in his Room, a Man of more Courage than Conduct.

Upon this Alteration, the public Grief was somewhat abated, and the Soldiers Rage pacified; for the Commonalty was made to believe, That _Solyman_ at last had found out the Wickedness of _Rustan_, and the Inchantments of his Wife; and that now he repented, though it were late, first of his Cruelty to _Mustapha_. and thereupon had banished _Rustan_ from his Presence, and that he would not spare his Wife neither, as soon as he came to _Constantinople_. As for _Rustan_, he pretended great Sorrow, and departed to _Constantinople_, without seeming to have the least hope, ever to be restored to his former Dignity.

But alas! _Roxolana_ was not content with the Destruction of _Mustapha_, as long as he had an only Son, who was yet in his Minority, alive; for she did not think her own, or her Childrens Security, to be sufficiently provided for, as long as any of _Mustapha_’s Race were alive; but she wanted a fair pretence to accomplish her Design, nor was it long before she found One. She represented to _Solyman_, that as often as his Grand-child, _Mustapha_’s Son went abroad at _Prusa_, where he was brought up, the Youth of that City were wont to flock about him, to wish him all Happiness, and particularly to pray, _That he might long survive his Father_. And whither (said she) can this tend, but to prompt him to mount the Throne, and revenge his Father’s Death? And to be sure, the _Janizaries_ will take his Part, (added She;) and thus the Death of _Mustapha_ alone, will add little Security to the public Peace and Tranquility. Religion (proceeded she) is to be preferred before even the Lives of our own Children; and seeing that of the _Musselmans_, (for so they call their Religion, as counting it the best) stands and falls with the _Ottoman_ Family; if that House fail, farewel Religion also. And how can that House stand, if Domestic Discord undermine it? And therefore Sir, if you prevent the Ruin of your House, your Empire and your Religion, you must use all manner of means; nay, you must not stick at Parricide itself; if homebred Disagreement and Feud may be thereby prevented; for the safety of Religion will over-ballance the Loss, even of a Man’s own Children. As for _Mustapha_’s Son, you have the less Reason to spare him, because his Father’s Crime hath already infected him, and there is do doubt, but, if he be suffered to Live, he will soon endeavour to Head a Party, to revenge his Father’s Death.