Travels into Turkey Containing the most accurate account of the Turks, and neighbouring nations, their manners, customs, religion, superstition, policy, riches, coins, &c.

Part 13

Chapter 134,242 wordsPublic domain

The Country of _Colchis_ abounds with all sorts of Fruits, growing almost naturally, except Bread-Corn, Wheat and Barley; and these Grains would grow there also, if due Tillage were used about them: But the People are very idle, they only sow Millet at randum, which yields such an Encrease, that one Crop serves them for two Years; their chief Subsistence is thereon, neither desire they any other Corn. Their Vines grow at the foot of high Trees, and mounting up to their Boughs, yield them much Wine, and pretty good. These Vines last for many Years. Their Bees, like themselves, live in the Woods, and supply them with Wax and Honey; all the Pains they take, is, to find them out. The same Woods yield them plenty of Venison; as for Pheasants and Partridges, they abound all over the Country. A great proof of the Fertility of their Land, are their Melons, which, besides their extraordinary Sweetness, do oft grow three Foot long.

As for coin’d Silver, they have little or none, and of Gold less; few of them know what it is: So that they may seem a very happy People, who are without so great a Temptation to Mischief. And yet I think few of us do envy them this Happiness, because none can grow rich among them; yet they have that value for Silver, that when they receive any in Traffick with Foreigners, as some of them must needs do, they transfer it all to he use of their Temples, for making Crucifixes, Chalices and such like Ornaments, which sometimes their King, on pretence of Public Necessity, doth seize upon, and amass it all to his own use.

Their only way of Commerce among themselves is by exchange of Wares. If one have overmuch of a Commodity, he brings it to Market, and receives what he wants in Exchange; so that there is no need of Money, their Commerce is by bartering of Commodities.

They pay also their Tribute to their King in the Products of the Earth; they supply him with all Necessaries largely, both for Meat, Drink, and Apparel, for maintaining of his Houshold, and is reward the Deserving. And, indeed, he hath an unexhausted Revenue, not only from Tenths, and settled Customs, but from those Gifts which are daily bellowed upon him; and yet he is as liberal in bellowing them, as he is ready to receive them.

His Palace is, as a public Granary, stored with all manner of Provisions, which are disposed to all that need, out of his royal Bounty; especially if that Year’s Harvest hath disappointed the Husbandman. The Custom is, that if any Merchant come with his Ship thither, he makes a Present to the King, either small or great, nothing is refused, and the King bestows a Banquet on them ashore. The manner is thus.

There is a large Building, on both sides of which are the King’s Stables, where a long Table is plac’d for the King; he himself fits at the upper end, and, at a moderate Distance, fit the rest. The Table is well furnished, especially with Venison, and with Wine enough; the largest Drinkers are the welcomest Guests. The Queen, with her female Attendants, hath a Table in the same Room, but apart by themselves; and then they junket freely without much regard to Modesty; they carry themselves like Anticks, fleering, nodding, tipping the Wink, like so many _Medea’s_, if there were _Jasons_ ready for them.

After Dinner, the King, with his Guests, goes a Hunting; and, in Woods, under the Shadow of large Trees, the common People divert themselves, and keep Holy-day in Drinking, Dancing and Singing. They hang their Fiddles on long Poles or Boards, and then striking them with a Stick, make Musick, and sing to it the Praise of their Mistresses, or of their valiant Men. Among their Heroes (unless I am misinformed) they often mention one _Rowland_; how he came into that Country I know not, unless he passed thither with _Godfrey_ of _Bullogne_. They tell many prodigious Stories of this _Rowland_, as ridiculous and improbable as any Romance among us.

Whilst they are thus given to Idleness and Luxury, Dissoluteness must needs follow; and, to speak Truth, Chastity is a Virtue rarely found among them. The Husband will offer his own Wife or his Sister, to the Pleasure of a Stranger; and, if they can but thus please their Wives, they care for little else. Neither are their Daughters kept under any stricter Discipline. ’Tis hard to find a Damsel unvitiated among them; nay, some have born Children at ten Years old; and, if you scruple to believe it, because of the smallness of their Bodies, at your Request they will produce you an Infant, not much bigger than a large Frog. Whereas, otherwise, they are a tall and comely bodied People. But they are so void of all Civility and courteous Behaviour, that they think they pay you a great Compliment, if among other Barbarities, when they meet you, they make a certain Sound from their Throats like Belching.

In one thing they shew a great Dexterity of Wit, and that is in Stealing. He that pilfers most neatly, is counted a brave Fellow; but he that does it bungingly, is esteemed a Dunce and a Blockhead, not worthy to live; and even his own Father or his Son, will sell or exchange him for a small Matter to Merchant-strangers, to be carried away they care not whither.

An _Italian_ Merchant who had been in these Parts, told me, that a certain Priest of theirs, stole his Knife as he was in their Temple. He perceived the Theft, but dissembling it, gave him the Sheath also, that he might put up his stol’n Ware.

When they go into their Temples, they have some esteem for the Images of the Virgin _Mary_, of _Peter_ and _Paul_, and other Saints; but their greatest Veneration is for the Image of St. _George_ on Horseback. They fall down prostrate before it, kissing every part of it; even his Horse’s Shoes. They say, he was a valiant Man, a great Warrior, that in a single Combat did openly fight Hand to Hand with the _Devil_, and either conquer’d, or, at least, foil’d him.

I’ll acquaint you with one Passage more, which you cannot but stand amazed at. ’Tis this.

The Princes of the East are always presented with Gifts at any Audience. _Dadianus_, in compliance with this Custom, brought _Solyman_ a Cup or Dish of Carbuncle, so bright and shining, that in a dark Night a Man might travel by the Light of it, as well as at Noon-day. I cannot believe it, you’ll say: Nor do I: Neither can I be angry with you for suspending your Belief; but, whatever you and I do, let me tell you, there are enough that do believe it. The more judicious think it to be a small Goblet of _Carbuncle_, or _Granate_, which was lost in Shipwrack, when a certain Prince of _Persia_ was flying from his Father to _Constantinople_, and driven, by a Tempest, to the _Colchian_ Shore, where it was taken up. He brought also 20 white _Hawks_, called _Falcons_, there being Plenty of them in that Country of _Colchis_.

This is all I can inform you of, concerning the _Colchians_ and their Manners; let me now proceed to answer your Demands concerning my self, and my own way of Living. I seldom go abroad, unless I receive Letters from my Master to be delivered at the Court; or, unless I am commanded to expostulate with the _Bashaws_ concerning the Rapines and Cruelties of the _Turkish_ Garrisons, which is ordinarily twice or thrice a Year. Perhaps, if I would desire leave to ride about the City with my Keeper, it would not be denied me: But I have no mind to be so much beholding to them; for I would have them think that the strictness of my Confinement or Imprisonment is not valued at all by me; and, to speak Truth, what Comfort can I have to ride up and down among a parcel of _Turks_, who will either slight, or else jeer and reproach me? No, I like the Country and the Champaign better than the City; especially that City which is so full of Ruins, and which retains nothing of its ancient Glory, besides its Situation. ’Tis true, it was once a Rival to _Rome_ it self; but now, alas! it is shamefully inslaved; who can without Pity behold it? Who so hard-hearted, as not to be affected with the mutability of human Affairs? And who knows how near we are to the same Fate? I keep my self within my own Doors, conversing with my old Friends, I mean, my Books, in which is all my Delight. ’Tis true, for my Health’s Sake, I have made a Bowling-Green, where, before Dinner, I use to play; and, after Dinner, I practise the _Turkish_ Bow.

The _Turks_ are wondrous expert at shooting with the Bow; they accustom themselves to that Exercise from 7 or 8, to 18 or 20 Years of Age, and hereby their Arms grow stronger, and their Skill so great, that they will hit the smallest Mark with their Arrows. Their Bows are not much stronger, but for their shortness much handier than ours; they are not made of plain Wood, but of a String and Ox’s Horn, fastened with much Glew and Flax. These sort of Bows, though never so strong, the _Turks_, who are used to the Sport, can easily draw even to their very Ear; and yet one that is not accustom’d thereto, though never so strong a Man, cannot draw to that height, so as to strike a piece of Money, set upright between the Bow and the String, in the Angle where it is put into the Notch.

They aim their Arrows so sure, that in a Fight they will hit a Man’s very Eye, or any other Part they design to strike. In the place where they exercise, you may see them direct by their stroke so artificially, that 5 or 6 of their Arrows will stick round about the White in the Butt, (which is usually less than a Dollar) and yet not hurt or touch it. They stand not above 30 Foot from the Butt: In the Thumb of their Right Hand, they use Rings of Bone, on which the String lies, when they draw it; and with the Thumb of their Left Hand, they draw the Arrow by a knot bearing outwards; far otherwise than they do with us. Their Butt is made of a Bank of sandy, gravelly Earth, raised about four Foot high from the Ground, and strongly surrounded with Boards. But the _Bashaws_, and those that have great Families, train up their Servants in this Exercise, at their own Houses, where the more skilful teach the unexperienced. Some of these in their solemn _Bayram_, (for they also have their _Easter_) assemble themselves together in a great Plain about _Pera_, where sitting over-against one another cross-legg’d, as Taylors do with us, (for that is the manner of their sitting) they begin with Prayer (so the _Turks_ begin all their Enterprizes) and then they strive, who shall shoot an Arrow farthest. The whole Contest is managed with a great deal of Decency and Silence, though the number of Spectators be very great. Their Bows are very short for this Exercise, and the shorter the better, so that they are hardly bendable, but by well-practised Persons: Their Arrows also are of a peculiar kind. He that conquers hath a Linnen-Handkerchief, such as we use to wipe off our Sweat, wrought with embroidered Needle-work, for his Reward; but his greatest Encouragement, is the Commendation and Renown he gets. ’Tis almost incredible how far they will shoot an Arrow; they mark the place, with a Stone, where the farthest Arrow, for that Year, was lodg’d. There are many such Stones in the Field, placed there Time out of Mind, which are farther than they are able to shoot now a-days, they say. These were the Marks of their Ancestor’s Archery, whose Skill and Strength in Shooting, they acknowledge, they cannot reach to. In divers Streets and Cross-ways of the City of _Constantinople_, there are also such Sports, wherein not only Children and young Men, but even the graver sort do exercise themselves. There is one that takes care of the Butt, who waters it every Day, otherwise it would be so dry, that an Arrow (the _Turkish_ Arrows being always blunt) would not stick therein. And he that thus oversees the Mark is very diligent to draw out and to cleanse the Arrows, and throw them back to the Archers, and he hath a Stipend from them sufficient to maintain him. The Front of the Butt is like a little Door, whence, perhaps, came the _Greek_ Proverb; that, when a Man miss’d the Mark, he is said to shoot _extra januam_, besides the Door; for, I suppose, the _Greeks_ used this way of Butting, and that the _Turks_ borrowed it from them. I grant the use of the Bow is very ancient among the _Turks_; but that hinders not, but, when they conquered the _Grecian_ Cities, they might still retain their way of butting and bounding their Arrows. For no Nation scruples to transfer the profitable Inventions of other Nations to themselves, as I might instance in _Great Ordnance_, and in _Muskets_, and other things, which, though not our Inventions, yet the _Turks_ borrow their use of from us.

’Tis true, they could never yet be brought to the Printing of Books, nor to the setting up public Clocks. The Reasons are, that their Scripture (_i. e._) _Alchoran_, would no longer be called Scripture, or Writing, if it were Printed, (that’s their Fancy); and for Clocks, they suppose, that the Authority of their _Emraim_, and of their ancient Rites would be diminished, if they should permit the Use of them. In other Cases, they ascribe much to the ancient Institutions of other Nations, even almost to the prejudice of their own Religion. I speak of their Commonalty.

All Men know how averse they are from the approving of _Christian_ Rites and Ceremonies; and, yet, let me tell you, that, whereas the _Greek_ Priests do use, at Spring-time, a certain way of Consecration to open the Sea for Sailors (before which time, they will hardly commit their Vessels to the Waters) the _Turks_ also observe the same Ceremony: For, when their Vessels are ready to sail, they repair to the _Grecians_, and ask them, whether they have consecrated the Sea? If they say _No_, they desist; if _Yea_, then they set sail and away. ’Twas also a Custom of the _Greeks_ not to open the Pits, in the Isle of _Lemnos_, for the digging out of the Earth, called, _Agosphragod_, before the Feast of the Transfiguration of our Lord, _viz._ _August_ 6. The _Turks_ also observe the same Custom; and, whereas the _Grecian_ Priests did anciently celebrate the Liturgy at that time, the _Turks_ will have them do so still; and they themselves stand at a distance, as Spectators only: And, if you ask them, why they do this? Their Answer is, that there are useful Customs practised of old, the Causes whereof are not known. The Ancients, they say, saw and knew more than we; and, therefore, we will not violate their Customs, lest we do it to our loss. This Opinion hath so far prevailed against many of them, that I know some, who in private will baptize their Children, alledging, there is some good in that Rite, and that it was not instituted, at first, without just Cause.

Having acquainted you thus far with the _Turkish_ Exercises, let me add one more. They have a Custom derived from the _Parthians_, that they counterfeit flying away on Horseback, and presently turn back and kill their unwary Pursuers. The way they learn to do it, is this: They erect a high Pole, almost in plain Ground, with a brass Globe on the top of it; about this they spur their Horses, and having got a little beyond, the Horse still galloping, they presently turn about, and flying along, shoot an Arrow into that Globe. The frequent Use hereof makes them expect, that their Bow being turn’d in their Flight, their unwary Enemy is shot through.

’Tis time now, you’ll say, that I return to my Lodging, lest my Keeper should be angry with me. Well, then; what time is left me from beholding these Exercises, I bestow entirely on my Books, or in Conferences with my Friends the Citizens of _Pera_, originally _Genoese_, or others; yet not without the leave of my _Chiauxes_. These Fellows are not always in the same Humour; they have their lucid Intervals, in which they are more tractable than at other times. When ’tis fair Weather with them, the _Ragustæans_, the _Florentines_, the _Venetians_, and sometimes the _Greeks_, with other Nations, come to visit me, on one Account or another; sometimes, also, I converse with Men of more remote Countries, that come hither, whose Conversation much delights me.

A few Months ago, there came hither a Merchant from _Dantzick_, who had the sole vending of Amber. He wondred to what Use the _Turks_ could put so great a Quantity of it, as they bought; or, whither they sent it: At last he was told, that they sent it into _Persia_, where that kind of Juice, or Bitumen, is highly esteemed; for they adorn Parlors, Studies, and Temples with it. He bestowed upon me, a wooden Vessel full of that Liquor, they call _Juppenbier_. It was most excellent Stuff: But I laughed heartily at my Guests, both _Greeks_ and _Italians_, who, not being accustomed to this Liquor, could not tell what to call it. At length, because I told them ’twas good to preserve Health, they thought it was some medicinal Drug, and called it a _Syrup_; but they sipp’d and syrupp’d it about so long, that, at one Dinner, they emptied my Barrel.

This Liberty my _Chiauxes_ (who now and then are changed) do sometimes give me. They are not only willing I should go abroad, but often invite me so to do: But I, as I told you before, always refuse them, that so they may not think they can do me either good or hurt; and the Pretence I make use of is this, that I have tarried so long at Home, that now I am grown to the Walls of the House, so that if I go forth, it would fall. I will not, therefore, stir abroad, say I, till I go for good and all into my own Country.

As for my Family, I am glad that they go abroad sometimes, for thereby they learn to bear the long Absence from their own Country, the better.

But yet when they make use of this Liberty, the drunken _Turks_ often meet and quarrel with them in the Streets, especially, if no _Janizaries_ be with them; and, though there be, yet sometimes Blows happen on both sides: And, therefore, it is troublesome to me, to excuse my Domesticks, when they are clamour’d against; yet, I confess, the surliness and vigilance of my _Chiauxes_, in keeping fast my Doors, do in a great Measure ease me of that troublesome Office. Let me give you a late Instance of this kind.

There came lately to me a Messenger from my Master, the Emperor, one _Philip Baldus_, an _Italian_. He was 66 Years old; and, riding faster than his Age could bear, he fell into a Fever. My Physician prescribed him a Clyster, and the same being brought by the Apothecary, my _Chiaux_ would not let him in, nor suffer the Medicine to be brought to the sick Man. Inhumanely enough, you’ll say; especially, as that _Chiaux_ had carried it courteously to me for a long time; but now he was so inraged on a sudden, that ’twas intolerable, for he threatned to cudgel every body that came to me. After he had thus affronted me, I thought of a way to let him know, how little I valued all his bug-bear Threats; which was thus. I set one of my Servants to stand within my Gate, and to bar it; charging him, to open to none, but at my Command. The _Chiaux_ comes in the Morning to unlock the Gate, as his Custom was; but his Key availed not, for ’twas bolted. On the in-side he spied my Man, through the Chinks, and calls out to him to open it. Not I, says he; hereupon the _Chiaux_ began to be angry, to curse and call Names. Prate while you will, says my Servant, neither thy self nor any of thine shall come in here: For why should I open to thee, more than thou to us? Thou keepest us shut in, and we’ll keep thee shut out; do thou shut the Door without, and to be sure I’ll shut it within. What, says he, did your Master command you so to do? Yes, said I: However, says the _Chiaux_, let me come in and put my Horse in the Stable: No Stabling for your Horse here, said he. Let me then have some Hay and Provender out for him: Not a bit, says he; go and buy it in the Neighbourhood, there’s enough to be sold. I used frequently to make the _Chiaux_ sit down at Meat with me, or else send him something from my Table; But now the Case was altered; he stood, fasting as he was, at my Door, his Horse being tied to a _Plane-Tree_, over against it.

The _Bashaws_, and other Grandees, as they passed by that Place in their return from Court, and knew, by its Trappings, that it was the _Chiaux_’s Horse, eating his Hay under the _Plane-Tree_, they demanded the Reason, why he was not shut up in a Stable, as heretofore? He readily told them all the Matter; that as he shut us up, so he and his Horse were shut out, so that the one could not get Food, or the other Provender. When the rest of the _Bashaws_ heard this Story, they laugh’d heartily, and from that Time held it fruitless to think of terrifying me with such frivolous Vexations as the shutting my Doors.

But a while after that _Chiaux_ was removed, and then we had more Liberty. _Rustan_ himself was satisfied how vain his Menaces were by this Story, I shall now relate.

There came a certain aged _Sancto_, of great Esteem among them for his Piety, to pay his Court to him; and, among other Discourses, he asked _Rustan_ why, since the _Sultan_’s Children were at Discord one with another, which was likely to occasion great Troubles in their Empire, he did not make Peace with the _German_ Emperor, that _Solyman_ might be secure from Danger on that side? I desire nothing more, says _Rustan_; but how can I bring it about? His Demands I cannot yield to, and my Demands he will not accept, nor can I compel him so to do. I have tried all Ways to bring him to my Terms; I have kept him in the nature of a Prisoner these many Years, I have dealt coarsely enough with him; and yet, alas! he is but hardened the more thereby. When I would shut him up as a close Prisoner in his own House, then he bars his Door on the Inside, that no body can come at him; thus all my Labour is in vain. If another Man had been so hardly dealt with, to avoid the Durance, he would have turned to our Religion; as for him, he cares not a Rush.

This was _Rustan_’s Discourse, as some present thereat informed me.

The reason of their surly Carriage, is this: The _Turks_ are very suspicious, that the Agents of Christian Princes have a great Latitude in their Commissions; so that they have Power to alter them, as occasion serves; if they cannot at first get favourable, then they may except of harder Terms. To get out of them the full of their Commissions, they vex their Persons, shut them up close, threaten War, and abuse them all manner of ways.

Some think, that a certain _Venetian_ Resident did much encourage the _Turks_ to these Courses; for when the Dispute was between the _Venetian_ and _Turk_, about _Napoli di Romania_, their Agent had a Charge to try all other ways of Accommodation, without surrendering the City; but if no milder Terms would do, then he had Liberty to part with that City, rather than to engage in a War with the Port: Some _Venetian_ Traytor declared this part of his Commission to the _Turks_, unknown to the Resident himself; who rather denied that he had any other Commands, than what he had then proposed, which were the gentlest Terms. The _Bashaws_ judging themselves to be deluded, were very angry, and bid him have a care what he said; their Master was not to be mock’d; they knew well enough that he had other Commands, and thereupon, they recited to him the full of his Commission; so that now, said they, if you do not tell us, we shall look on you as a Liar and an Impostor, and then he would be punished as such; and his Commonwealth would certainly be ruined, if the implacable Anger of _Solyman_ did once, on this Occasion, stir him up to War against him; and, therefore, speak now, or for ever hereafter hold your Peace: Our Master will not use Entreaties; he hath not Power enough, God be thanked, to command Obedience.

The _Venetian_ Agent was so surprized at this Discourse, which he did not so much as dream of, that he very frankly told them all; for which, however, he was very much blamed in his own Country.