CHAPTER I.

LAHORE. Page Departure from Delhi.--Communication from Runjeet Sing.--Himalaya.--Villages on the Sutlege: People.--Banks of the Sutlege.--Physical Phenomena of Rivers.--Altars of Alexander.--Enter the Punjab.--Our Welcome chanted.--Civilities at Hurree.--Seik Fanatics.--Manja; country so called.--Antient Canals.--Town of Puttee.--Stud of Horses at Puttee.--An Acali, or Fanatic.--A Seik Chief and his Castle.--Famous Road of Juhangeer.--Enter Lahore.--Visit the Maharaja.--Earthquake at Lahore.--Join Runjeet Sing in the Field.--Description of his Camp.--Runjeet Sing marching.--Conversations of Runjeet Sing.--Superb Cashmere Tents.--A Visit from the Physician-general.--Runjeet Sing sporting.--Conversations of Runjeet Sing.--Return to Lahore.--Festival of the Busunt, or Spring.--Entertainment by the Maharaja.--Preparations for our Journey.--Kindness of Messrs. Allard and Court.--Audience of Leave.--Mons. Court’s Instructions 1-38

CHAP. II.

ACROSS THE PUNJAB TO THE INDUS.

Quit Lahore.--Reduction of Baggage.--Arrangements.--Garden described.--Himalaya.--Reach the Chenab or Acesines.--Soil and Wells.--Sugar.--A Seik Chief.--Seiks: Peculiarities of the Tribe.--Cross the Chenab.--Diseases: Opinions regarding them.--Cross the Jelum, or Hydaspes.--Arrival at Pind Dadun Khan.--Antiquities.--Salt Mines of Pind Dadun Khan.--Position of the Salt Range.--Formation, &c.--Mines, Strata, Temperature.--Manner of working the Salt.--Its Quality.--Supply of the Mineral.--Banks of the Hydaspes.--Villages.--Scene of Porus’s Battle.--Extensive Ruins.--Speculations.--Nicæ and Bucephalia.--Porus’s Army compared with Runjeet Sing’s.--Floating Islands.--Costume of the Ladies.--Arrival at Rotas.--Fortress.--Nature and Formation of Rocks.--Tope of Manikyala.--Coins and Antiques.--Manikyala identified with Taxilla.--Rawil Pindee.--Marks of quitting India.--Hurdwar Pilgrims: Reflections on seeing them.--Seik Priest.--Pass of Margulla.--Tope of Belur.--Garden of Hoosn Abdall.--See the Indus.--Encamp on the Indus.--Ford it.--Story of a Soldier.--Attok.--Phenomenon at Attok.--Washing Gold 39-80

CHAP. III.

PESHAWUR.

Entrance into the Country of the Afghans.--Precautionary Arrangements.--Farewell Letter to Runjeet Sing.--Salt Monopoly.--Fields of Battle.--Entrance into Peshawur.--Afghan Entertainment.--Visitors.--Ride out with the Chief.--His Character.--Afghan manner of spending Friday.--Horrible Spectacle.--Brother of the Chief.--Arrangements for our Advance.--The Chief and his Court.--Visitors.--Juvenile Intelligence.--Rambles in Peshawur.--Quail fighting.--Hawking.--Moollah Nujeeb.--A Saint.--Disadvantages of giving Medicine.--Antiquities.--Conclusions regarding the “Topes.”--Preparations for Departure.--Maître d’Hôtel of the Chief 81-111

CHAP. IV.

JOURNEY TO CABOOL.

Departure from Peshawur.--Khyberees.--Passage of the Cabool River.--Caravan.--Scene in the Cabool River.--Mountains.--Formation of the Hills.--Interview with a Momund Chief.--Civility of a Khyberee.--Incident.--Pestilential Wind.--Antiquities.--Julalabad.--Snowy Mountains.--Bala-bagh.--Treatment by the People.--Gundamuk.--Cold Countries.--Neemla.--Manner of keeping Horses.--Jugduluk.--Post-houses of the Emperors.--Wandering Ghiljees.--Pastoral Scenes.--Ispahan.--Story of Futtih Khan.--Pass of Luta-bund.--Arrival in Cabool.--Our Conductor, Mahommed Shureeff 112-132

CHAP. V.

CABOOL.

Arrival of Mr. Wolff.--Nawab Jubbar Khan.--Introduction to the Chief of Cabool.--Conversations.--Tomb of the Emperor Baber.--Prospect.--Intercourse with the People.--Cabool; its Bazars.--Traditions.--Coins.--Armenians.--Entertainment.--Gardens of Cabool.--Fruits and Wines.--Bala Hissar, or Prison.--Difference in Asiatic and European Manners.--Eed, or Festival.--Tomb of Timour Shah.--Alchymy and Minerals.--Freemasonry.--Jewish Origin of the Afghans; Opinions regarding it.--Party.--The Kaffirs, a singular People.--Preparations.--Shikarpooree Merchants.--Money Arrangements.--Civilisation by Commerce 133-170

CHAP. VI.

JOURNEY OVER THE HINDOO KOOSH, OR SNOWY MOUNTAINS.

Quit Cabool.--Cafila-bashee.--Contraband Korans.--Julraiz.--Valley of the Cabool River.--Fish Preserve.--Ghuzni.--Pass of Oonna.--Effects of Snow.--Family of Huzaras.--Goître.--Ali Illahi.--Yezdan Buksh Huzara.--Pass of Hajeeguk and Kaloo.--Mountain Scenery.--Bameean excavated City.--Idols of Bameean.--Geographical Errors.--Leave Afghanistan.--Uzbek Chief of Syghan.--Feelings on entering Tartary.--Pass of Dundan Shikun.--Ruhmut oollah Khan.--Uzbek Pity.--Mahommedan Law.--Companions.--Asiatic Opinions of Europe.--Pass of Kara Koottul.--Adventures.--Life of a Traveller.--Modes of Salutation.--Tremendous Defiles.--Poisonous Plant.--Heibuk reptiles.--Houses.--People.--Khooloom and Plains of Tartary 171-206

CHAP. VII.

SERIOUS DIFFICULTIES.--JOURNEY TO KOONDOOZ.

Difficulties at Khooloom.--Sketch of Moorcroft’s disasters.--Departure for Koondooz.--Favourable Opportunity for escape.--Night Adventure.--My Account of myself.--Imbecility of our Conductor.--Visiters, manner of Tea-drinking.--Traditions of Alexander the Great.--Interview with the Chief of Koondooz.--Incidents illustrative of Uzbek Character.--Koondooz; its Chief.--Departure from Koondooz.--Quit Khooloom.--Avaricious Conduct of our Conductor.--Dangers of the Road to Balkh.--Mirage.--Muzar.--Tomb of Mr. Trebeck.--Arrival at Balkh.--Intelligence of the Cafila-bashee 207-236

CHAP. VIII.

BALKH, AND JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

Description of Balkh.--Climate.--Coins found at Balkh.--Cafila-bashee.--Grave of Mr. Moorcroft.--Quit Balkh.--Ancient Bactriana.--Correctness of Quintus Curtius.--Desert of the Toorkmuns.--Reach the Oxus.--Singular manner of crossing it.--The Caravan.--Kiz Kooduk.--A Khwaju.--Literature.--Amazons of Lakay.--Kirkinjuk.--A Slave.--Knotty Points.--Snowy Mountains.--Kurshee.--Sickness of our Party.--Alarms of a Traveller.--Letter to the Minister of Bokhara.--Kurshee.--Market at Karsan.--Uzbeks.--Abdoolla Khan; his Munificence.--Acquaintances.--Fatigues.--Reflections.--Arrival in Bokhara 237-266

CHAP. IX.

BOKHARA.

Change of Dress.--Visit the Minister.--Suspicions regarding us.--Description of the Registan, or great Bazar of Bokhara.--Employments in the Bazar.--Society at Bokhara.--Slave Bazar at Bokhara.--Offenders against Mahommedanism.--Hindoos.--A Wanderer.--An Indian Sepoy.--A pretty Fair One.--Costume.--Baths of Bokhara.--Interview with the Minister.--The King.--Life of a King.--Russian Slaves.--Acquaintances at Bokhara 267-299

CHAP. X.

BOKHARA.

The City of Bokhara.--Historical Sketch of it.--Colleges of Bokhara.--Rigour of Mahommedanism.--Literature of Central Asia.--Interview with the Vizier.--Samarcand.--Tomb of Bhawa Deen.--An Ancient City, Coins, &c.--An Uzbek Family.--Bokhara on Friday.--Arrangements.--Farewell Visit to the Vizier.--Departure 300-329

CHAP. XI.

DETENTION IN THE KINGDOM OF BOKHARA.

Detention of the Caravan.--Assemblage of Merchants.--Country between Bokhara and the Oxus.--Intercourse with the Toorkmuns.--A Toorkmun Acquaintance.--Ersaree Toorkmuns.--Slavery in Toorkistan.--Fellow-travellers.--Music.--Our own Party.--Ruins of Bykund.--Alexander’s Marches.--Reply from the Khan of Orgunje.--Uzbek Customs.--Preparations for Departure.--Receive Letters from India.--Reflections 330-356

NARRATIVE.