Part 9

The whole province is luxuriantly rich, abounding with woods and pastures, but thinly inhabited, and that in caves and huts rather than houses. Its chief income proceeds from wax, honey, hides, horses, the mines of salt, and custom on some places of the _Danube_. By these it is able to maintain its prince and barons splendidly, besides paying a yearly tribute to the Turk, that is settled at three hundred and twenty purses, which are equal to thirty two thousand pounds sterling, besides three times that sum extorted beyond the compact. The lands of the province are intirely in the hands of the Prince and barons; the rest, who are rustics, being all either slaves or servants, whose persons or service are at the disposal of the several nobles, on whom they depend.

April xxviii.

We proceed this morning from _Bucurest_, and after five hours travel take up our lodging at a small village, called _Chrytshulest_. In the way we stop a little towards the right hand to visit a gentile palace, which is building by the Prince for his second son, situated on a pleasant lake. And the day following, in seven hours from _Chrytshulest_, we pitch our tents, and lodge near a small river, called _Ilsós_.

April xxx.

This day about twelve a clock we arrive at _Tergovist_, where his Excellency and his retinue are lodged in the palace of the Prince. The form and state hereof much resembles that of _Bucurest_; only it has the advantage of a much finer garden, and therein of a beautiful stone summer house; both which are regular, and may compare with those of the politer Christendom. The town is pleasantly situated on the _Ialomitza_, beyond which it enjoys the prospect of a beautiful tract of hills, which make the boundary betwixt this province and that of _Transylvania_; but on the other hand, the eye loses itself in an even boundless plain, encircled at a large distance with stately woods. The city gives title to the chief Metropolite of Valachia, and in like manner, till within these thirty years, was the residence of their princes; when a rebellion against the Turks being here formed by Prince _Ghika_, and the neighbourhood of Transylvania contributing to render the place more suspected, his successors were constrained to demolish it, and retire to _Bucurest_. But within five years the present Prince has obtained fresh leave to reestablish it, on condition he erects no fortifications in the place; and accordingly it begins apace to be repeopled, while the Prince refits his palace, embellishes his gardens, and invites the nobility to erect their respective houses, that so they may attend him in those frequent residences, which for the future he intends to make here.

May i.

We took the opportunity of the stay, we this day made at _Tergovist_, to go after diner to a convent situated on the adjoining hills; which we found well built of fair freestone, adorned with cupolas well carved in lattice work of the same matter; but above all commanding a delightful prospect over the subject plain, and city of _Tergovist_, which on account of the palaces, the seats of the nobility, and the many fair convents and churches there extant, affords an entertaining landskip.

May ii.

This day we travel four hours from _Tergovist_, and at length pitch our tents in a pleasant place, surrounded with pendent woods, by the name of _Isvóra_, not far from the stream of the _Dembowitza_, which yet continued to flow on our left hand.

May iii.

This morning we proceed, and within half an hour arrive at the foot of the mountains, where the _Dembowitza_ descends into the plain thro an easy clift, which it perhaps has partly formed by the continual and rapid course of its stream. Thro this plain we travel seven hours, in which time we are obliged to cross the winding chanel of the river twenty times or upwards; and being constantly diverted by the murmur of the falling waters; by the shade of the shelving hills that form the vale, and by the evenness of the ascent which imperceptibly leads us up the mountains, we at length pitch in a fair meadow inclosed like a theatre with surrounding trees and hills, where is a small village by the name of _Cotonést_.

May iv.

We continue our journey four hours thro the same sort of way, that is, along a narrow shady vale, which conveys the winding waters of the _Dembowitza_; which having crossed several times, we at length arrive at the village of _Dragoslave_, and in half an hour farther at that of _Rukar_, in the Greek map, Ῥούναλο, where we pitch and repose this evening. This village is considerably large, consisting of houses all of the Valachian fashion, that is, built round with trees laid even upon one another, covered with an high and deep roof consisting of wooden tiles, and within having no funnel or chimney to convey the smoke, but open only in several parts of the roof to supply that defect.

May v.

Being now imperceptibly advanced almost as high as the snowy tops of the mountain, which we see at a near distance impending over the village, where we lodge, we are informed, that the remaining ascent for the space of half an hour is very difficult, and that afterwards we are to encounter a much more troublesome descent. His Excellency therefore thought fit to repose here this day, and to take that opportunity of sending before him his waggons, coaches, and the greatest part of his baggage; that on the morrow, when he himself was to set forward, he might pass with the greater ease. In the mean time, considering that we then hoped to pass the limits, that separate the two provinces of _Transylvania_ and _Valachia_, it will be here proper to set down such general remarks, as occurred in traveling thro the latter.

This province was under the Romans from _Trajan_ to _Gallienus_, or rather to _Aurelian_; who, tho he was born here, yet translated the remainder of the Romans hence into _Moesia_ and _Pannonia_. When it became tributary to the Turks by force of arms, it was glad to accept the imposition of three hundred and twenty purses yearly; whilst _Moldavia_, which voluntarily submitted to that yoke, was assessed at no more than sixty. Ever since, the nomination of their prince has entirely resided in the Turk, who nevertheless allows him all rights of sovereignty in the principality, except that of declaring war, and coining his own money. That which ordinarily passes in this countrey, is therefore either the Dutch, or Venetian _lion dollars_; with the _quarts_ of Poland; and a small Saxon coin, here called _bains_, of which one hundred thirty two make a _lion dollar_. Justice is here performed according to the ancient laws of the province, which are agreable to the Roman law. The power and act of pronouncing sentence is wholly in the prince, after which, as commonly in Turkey, the execution immediately ensues. For the better adjustment of tribute, and other common duties, the whole province is divided into seventeen counties, of which each is to furnish its respective proportion. In time of war it ordinarily maintains twenty thousand men, of which about the fourth part continue in pay in the time of peace.

The natives ordinarily call themselves _Romans_, and their province _Tzerra Romanesca_[115], being persuaded that they are descended of that original. And in favour of this opinion they may allege their language, which is a broken mixture of Latin and Italian, into which have been accidentally adopted some few Turkish and Sclavonic words. They write intirely the Cyrillian Sclavonic character, which seems to be a detortion from the Greek. And these properties of their language, as well as the character[116], they have in common with _Moldavia_; which two provinces, together with _Transylvania_, constituted the ancient _Dacia_, the two former _Ripensis_, and the last _Mediterranea_. The wines of this province, especially about _Tergovist_, are exquisite fine. The Valachian habit much resembles that of the Turks. Their religion is intirely that of the Greek church, and the government of it subject to the Patriarch of Constantinople. Their liturgic rites are performed either in the Greek or Sclavonian tongue; tho I was assured, that in some churches the Valachian was admitted, at least they have frequently the _Gospels_ and other offices in that language, but the liturgy itself more rarely. The churches of each parish, as well as chapels of the many monasteries, which are seen here, are usually very fair, well built, richly adorned, profanely painted, and for the most part furnished with bells; tho in some places I have observed the wooden plank, which is common to the Greeks in Turkey, where bells are not permitted. The νάρθηξ, or _porch_, is generally daubed with superstitious representations of the punishments of hell; and often the inward walls are profaned with some inconsistent corporeal image of _God the Father_, a thing here permitted against the professed principles and declarations of the Greek church.

May vi.

We proceed this day over the mountain, on a steep craggy rocky way, lined on each side with an dismal shade, and sometimes looking down into a frightful precipice. By half an hour after ten we arrive at the limits of the two provinces, which are distinguished by a wooden cross on the edge of the mountain, from whence the prospect begins to open into _Transylvania_. Here my Lord was saluted from the government of _Transylvania_ by Count _Michael Mikes_, as well as from the magistrates of _Cronstadt_ by their deputy, and at the same time attended by a troop of horse, with the colours of the Emperor, as his ordinary guard; upon which the troop of _Cosacks_, which had hitherto guarded his Excellency from _Tergovist_, returned home. In one hour and an half from hence we descend the mountain, and at a narrow passage, where the river _Bozza_ finds its passage out of the snowy hills into the adjoining plain, we arrive at the castle of _Bran_, a small fortress which defends this pass; where his Excellency was saluted, as he passed, with three different salvos of about twenty one guns. Within canon shot of this fort we find a fair set of huts, ready pitched for the reception of his Excellency, with a buttery, kitchen, and other accommodations, provided for his use by the abovesaid Count _Mikes_; who now undertook the care of the public allowance and conduct of his Excellency from this place, as far as _Hermanstadt_.

May vii.

By six this morning we set forward from the castle of _Bran_, directing our course for _Cronstadt_, being now about two Hungarian miles, or twelve Italian, distant from it. In half an hour his Excellency was met by major general _Glychensberg_, governor of the forces at _Cronstadt_ and the parts adjoining; together with lieutenant colonel _Graven_ of the regiment of general _Rabutin_. The same civility he received from the judge and other magistrates of the city, with whom, and the numerous retinue which came along with them, we now proceed, making a train of a mile long. In the mean time our road lay thro that spot of ground, on which general _Heusler_ was defeated, and made prisoner by Count _Tekely_ in the year sixteen hundred and ninety; as also thro the town of _Rosnaw_, lying in the middle betwixt _Bran_ and _Cronstadt_, where there is a considerable castle, which likewise saluted his Excellency, as he passed, with three repeated salvos. About eleven a clock we enter the city, the castle repeating continual salvos, which we find all in arms, and the streets lined on both sides with musqueteers, as also the whole soldiery drawn up in order in the market place. In this is the house of general _Glychensberg_, where his Excellency was received with all marks of respect and honour, and in an hour’s time invited to a noble entertainment. After diner, by order of Count _Mikes_, we were attended to our several stations, where a Transylvanian gentleman was appointed to act as commissary, or _proveditóre_, in each respective quarter. Particularly Mr. Paget and myself were favoured with the company and attendance of one _Lodislaus Doeza_, a civil, intelligent, and well behaved gentleman of the Helvetian confession. And this afternoon Mr. Paget and I walked up the castle hill, from whence we had a prospect of the city, which is almost triangular, enclosed with a stone wall, situated in a narrow vale, under an high snowy clift of mountains, but on one side looking towards a level and fruitful plain. It is surrounded with three distinct suburbs, beautifully intermixed with gardens; and in one part of these suburbs, which runs more within the hills, stands an handsome Valachian church. A dreadful fire about fourteen years since laid the whole town in ashes, and at the same time utterly consumed the library of the school, which is here instituted for teaching of philosophy and theology. The same calamity almost ruined the cathedral church, of which now nothing but the outward case remains to testify its former grandeur; the roof, which was of arched stone, being now only covered with boards.

The general religion of this place is Lutheran; and the church above mentioned is governed by a dean and thirteen capitularies, who enjoy considerable rents from the thirteen parishes of the district of _Cronstadt_, which are supplied by them. The ecclesiastical government of the whole district is partly in this chapter, and partly in the superintendent of _Cronstadt_; which office is sometimes distinct, but for the most part held together with the deanry; and from this superintendent appeals lie to the bishop of the whole province of Transylvania.

The civil government of the town is in a judge elected every two years, a senate, and a commonalty of an hundred men. The sentence of the judge is final, and is governed by laws of the place model’d according to the civil law. The city since the fire is fairly rebuilt, with a certain regularity of walls and windows to the street, and the roofs are all covered, as in _Valachia_, with wooden tiles. The common language is Saxon; this being one of the cities, which belong to the great colony of that nation, which makes one third of _Transylvania_.

May ix.

This morning we depart from _Cronstadt_ at six a clock by the way of _Feketeholm_, which has a church fortified like a garrison. From thence we proceed thro woods and hills to _Veledin_; where in a cold watery plot of grass, surrounded with woods, we lodge this night in tents. Here I took leave of Count _Tomáso_, who then presented me with two other books from _Constantinus Stolnichus_.

May x.

General _Glychensberg_, who waited on his Excellency to this place from _Cronstadt_, now returned thither. We proceed thro a troublesome way and dark wood to _Sharkan_, which at length we find deliciously situated upon a river, which a little way from hence enters the _Aluta_, now called _Alt_. Here I lodged at the house of the minister, who was a Lutheran, by name _George Sularius_; and, it being Sunday, I attended him to their evening service.

May xi.

We set forward thro a fair, rich, and well cultivated country to _Fogeras_, a large but scattered town, and there take up our station by eleven a clock. His Excellency was here lodged in an house, which belonged to Count _Tekely_, who was prime minister to the late prince _Abaffi_, and slain in the defeat of General _Heusler_ near _Cronstadt_. I had here some conversation with the chief pastor of the place, _Michael Rozgoni_, a learned Calvinist, who had studied in Holland. At _Fogeras_ is a castle surrounded with a wide mote, and so strong, or at least so fortunate, that it is said never to have been taken by force of arms.

May xii.

From hence we proceed in six hours to _Úcha_, a village inhabited intirely by Valachs. And setting out early from thence the next morning, by twelve a clock we reach _Porumback_, a most delightful village, situated very near the banks of the _Aluta_; which river attended us for these three last days journey, not far from our right hand, under the adjoining hills. His Excellency was here met and complimented by general _Rabutin_ from _Hermanstadt_, who came accompanied with Count _Seau_, the Emperor’s chief commissary in Transylvania, and two other officers of the imperial army. The General returned before diner, and left my Lord well accommodated in a pleasant country house of Prince _Abaffi_; whose barnes, and magazines of grain, with the adjoining fish ponds, and rich meadows, that surround the farm, we viewed this afternoon with great pleasure.

May xiv.

We leave _Porumback_, and are presently after upon the banks of the _Aluta_, over which river his Excellency’s whole baggage, with the horses, coaches, waggons, and other necessaries, were transported upon flat bottomed boats. We proceed one Hungarian mile from our _conáck_, and then his Excellency is again met by general _Rabutin_, and several officers of the army, together with a train of five hundred persons, consisting of two troops of horse with the magistrates and chief citizens of _Hermanstadt_. After mutual compliments, my Lord takes his place in the General’s coach, and so they both ride together another Hungarian mile to _Hermanstadt_, attended with a numerous retinue of guards and citizens into the town, where the canons continually kept firing, and the inhabitants received them in arms. There his Excellency being first lodged in a large and convenient house in the marketplace, very near the palace of the General, about one a clock was conduced thither to diner, where a sumptuous feast was prepared at two tables. At the first sat his Excellency with his retinue, general _Rabutin_, his Lady, the Princess of _Holstein_, with the Countesses _Seau_, _Bethlen_, _Mikes_, and some others; as also the Counts _Seau_, _Bethlen_, _Mikes_, _Stanville_ of Lorrain, _Costa_ of Piedmont, _Monticelli_, and Commissary _Belli_. After diner his Excellency returned to his lodging, where he was now attended by Count _Bethlen_, instead of Count _Mikes_, who was appointed to conduct him from _Hermanstadt_ as far as _Clausenburg_. In the evening the General complimented his Excellency with the command of the garrison, during his stay in this place; and thereupon pressed him four different times to give the watch word, which nevertheless he peremptorily declined.

May xv.

His Excellency staid this and the following day at _Hermanstadt_, together with his retinue; where he continued to be treated in the same gentile manner by the General.

May xvii.

This being Sunday, we had divine service and a sermon at his Excellency’s lodgings, and then dined again with the General. And in the evening I was favoured by my landlord, Mr. _George Reisner_, senator of the city (an ingenious and learned person, who had studied ten years in Holland) with his coach and company to visit his garden, beyond the walls and mote of the city; near to which adjoins a famous large and intire crucifix cut in stone, much adored by the papists of this country. The same gentleman gave me notice of three Roman inscriptions which, as I was informed, had been brought from _Ulpia Trajana_. The first was upon a stone coffin in the market place, of which the following is a copy.

T. VAREN. T. F. PAP. SABINIANO EQ. R. FLAM. LAVRENTINO ITEM FLAM. COL. SARMIZ. DEC. COL. SAR. ET APVL. E. M. V. OMNIB. EQVESTRIB. MILIT. PERFUNC. CORNEL. LVCILLA CONIVX PILA EXTRVC TA. SARCOFAGVM IN QVO VARENIA PROBINAQVE SABINIANI SOROR CONDITA ERAT ETIAM EIVS CORPORE CONLOCA TO SVPERPOSVIT[117].

The others were in the house of General _Rabutin_, upon the base of two pillars, as I have here given them.

I. O. M. M. ROMAN VS INCOL PVS EX VOTO.

I. O. M. C. SEMPRONIVS VRBANVS PROC. Φ. AVG[118].

The same gentleman shewed me also the cathedral church of this place, entertained me with the music of the organ, and presented me with a book called _Breviculus de nationibus Transylvanicis_. Another on the same subject was given me the day before by the _rector scholae Cibiniensis_, which place with the adjoining library I then visited. This night I likewise returned a visit to the reverend _Isaacus Zabanius, primarius pastor Cibiniensis, et ecclesiae cathedralis decanus_, by whom and his wife I was kindly entertained above three hours. He then gave me an Answer, which he had formerly compiled, to _Campiani Rationes decem_.

May xviii.

By six this morning his Excellency and retinue leaving _Hermanstadt_ were attended by the General, and gentlemen above mentioned, beyond the adjoining river, after which they all took a cordial leave; especially lieutenant colonel _Graven_, to whom his Excellency presented a diamond ring. We now proceed in our way, at which time I received an obliging letter from Mr. Dunster, with an account of my successor’s arrival at _Smyrna_ upon the seventeenth of _April_.

_Hermanstadt_ is a fair city, consisting of well proportioned houses, regularly plaistered and covered with brick; and is incompassed with an intire brick wall, and that again with the water either of a mote, or river, which surrounds it. Over the gate, by which we entered, is the statue of _Hermannus_, the founder of the place. It is designed to be yet farther fortified by the Germans; for which end they are now marking out the place of a citadel, which they propose to build so strong and regular, as thereby to curb not only this city, but the whole province. It is intirely inhabited by Saxons, and consequently by professors of the Lutheran or Augustan confession. They have here three churches, of which the cathedral is large and well adorned. The General, and German garrison, which now consists of twelve hundred men, as likewise a few other papists, are fain to be contented with a private chapel. General _Rabutin_ is a comely, courteous, and facetious gentleman, of severe discipline, and prudent management of the Imperial soldiery, which thro this whole province, to the number of about ten thousand men, is committed to his charge. He is of French extraction, and was forced to fly while young, on account of a duel, from his native country to the court of _Vienna_; where after long service he at length obtained favour of the Princess of _Holstein_ then wife to Chancellor _Sinsendorff_; who after that minister’s death condescended to marry him, and so raised him to his present pitch of fortune. The civil government is in the hands of the _Judex Cibiniensis_, whose jurisdiction reaches not only over this city, but even the whole Saxon district. Next to him is the _Consul Cibiniensis_, whose government is confined within the city. And besides these there is a senate of about sixteen, and then a commonalty of about an hundred men. The place in Latin is called _Cibinium_, from the adjoining river _Cibin_.