Part 8

I saw the extravagant devotion of an enthusiastic sect of Turks which they publicly acted in the manner following. After their ordinary midday _namáz_ at a little _mosque_ of this city, they repaired to an adjoining chapel, where were seated many Turks of different quality, who came thither as spectators only, and to entertain their curiosity. These several devotées, who were to act their part, were decently ranked in circular seats, till the prior of their order entered, on which they all rose to reverence him. He immediately seated himself in the corner of the room, and with the whole fraternity struck up a religious hymn, which they carried on in a decent, solemn, and harmonious manner. This done, they rose upon their feet, to the number of about sixty persons, and form’d themselves into a close ring, each one holding his hands on the breast and neck of his foreman. In this posture they advanced round, repeating with a deep and forcible voice, _Hú hú_; at the same time stamping violently on the ground, and with great force throwing their heads towards the center of the ring. Soon after two step’d within the circle, and turn’d swiftly upon their heel; upon which the whole company quickened their motion, and grew into a warmth and fury, which is rather to be admired, than expressed in words. For two hours and an half they acted a continual fury, sometimes huging one another in a cluster, at other times kneeling in a confused company, and then runing round in a circle without cessation[109], throwing about their hands, tossing their heads, and repeating in hidious cries, _Hú héy_, _Alláh hulláh_, _Allá hú_, or, _Allá héy_. As they grew hoarser and weaker, both their sound and action exactly resembled the barking and snarling of dogs[110]; till at length being covered with sweat, and worked up to the last pitch of extasy, they concluded with certain versicles, which they repeated from the mouth of the prior, and so dismissed us[111].

April iv.

My Lord Paget paid his last visit this morning to the _vizír kayá_, who presented him with a gentile horse and furniture. In the afternoon he likewise took his last leave of the _reis effendi_, who honoured him with the like present, and dismissed him with expressions, that witnessed the sincere and cordial respect he bore him. I shall conclude this narrative with observing only, that about _Adrianople_ grows an excellent red wine, which I take to be that mentioned by _Hesiod_ in his _Oper et Dies_, _L._ ii. ℣. 107, where he says: Πετραίη τε σκίη, καὶ Βίβλινος οἶνος.

An Account of a journey from _Adrianople_, thro _Bulgaria_, _Walachia_, _Transylvania_, _Hungary_, _Germany_, _Flanders_, _Holland_, and thence to _England_, in the years MDCCII and MDCCIII.

April viii. _A. D._ 1702.

This day about ten a clock my Lord Paget set out from _Adrianople_, and began his journey homeward with a splendid equipage. First proceeded two _chiaushes_, and six _janisaries_; then the three flags of the _arms of England_, the _union_, and _St. George_, after these the gentlemen of the horse, with thirteen led horses; next the _agá_, appointed by the government to conduct his Excellency; who was followed by four coaches, each drawn by six horses, in the last of which rode his Excellency himself, and in the first some gentlemen, who accompanied him in this journey; namely, Count _Gylderstope_ of Sweden, Mr. George Montague, nephew to my Lord Hallifax, and his tutor Mr. _Gangain_.

For conveniency of carriage, and accommodations of the journey, his Excellency was furnished with seventy one waggons, which were to attend him to the extreme bounds of the Turkish empire, at the sole charge of the Port. Tho this was but the least mark of esteem, which he received from thence; as it may be reasonably computed, that they presented him to the value of near twenty purses of money, since his last arrival at _Adrianople_, in the following particulars. For the fitting up of his palace in that city, five hundred dollars: for the cushions and other furniture of two _sophá_ rooms, six hundred: for a stately horse from the grand _vizír_, five hundred: for the rich furniture of the same, a thousand: for a sable vest at the same time, a thousand: for an horse and furniture from the _vizír kayá_, five hundred: for the like from the _reis effendi_, five hundred: for fifteen mules from the government, at about fifty dollars each, seven hundred and fifty: for seventy two horses from the same, at thirty dollars each, two thousand one hundred and sixty: and lastly for one hundred days _tain_, or _allowance_, from the Port, at the rate of fifty dollars a day, making five thousand.

This day his Excellency and his retinue travel slowly about the space of fifteen miles, and about three a clock arrive at a small village called _Senigée_, where we find the waggons disposed in their several stations, the apartments of each company alloted, and three tents (tho not pitched this evening) ready for the service of his Excellency; which I here mention once for all, as being the constant method of each following _conáck_.

April ix.

From _Senigée_ we proceed this morning in three hours to _Cokúck Derocut_, and from thence in the like time to _Boiák Dervent_, where we find his Excellency’s tents orderly and conveniently placed, and all things regularly disposed for this night’s lodging. Here we saw an old Bulgar Christian, named _Staón_, aged one hundred and twenty years[112]; who told us, that he had all his life time been subject to great and continual sickness, and had three times changed his teeth, once in his infancy, and twice in his old age. They were now for the most part intire, his senses of hearing and tasting very lively, and his sight but little decayed; his beard and his eyebrows lately became perfectly black, but the hair of his head milk white, and the skin of his breast like the bark of an old weather beaten beech.

April x.

We travel this day from _Dervent_ to _Jenícui_, having hitherto found the country to consist of a level campain, and a soil that promised fertility, were it more happily furnished with inhabitants, water, and wood.

April xi.

We now proceed from _Jenícui_ to _Pashácui_, so called from the residence of _Achmét Gerai Sultan_, who is a Tartar prince, happily banished from his own barbarous country to this fair and delightful village, situated in a verdant plain, that is better furnished with wood, than the campain we had lately passed; and watered with a small river, which seems to rise from the bowels of mount _Haemus_, and bend its course towards the _Tunsa_.

April xii.

From _Pashácui_ we arrive at _Comorwa_, a rich well cultivated village, and plentifully supplied both with wood and water. In our way hitherto from _Adrianople_ we sometimes observed drummers, placed in the nature of watchmen, to give notice of the security of the road.

April xiii.

From _Comorwa_ we proceed in two hours and a half to _Dobral_, leaving in view to the right hand a large Turkish town called _Cornibat_, famous for dying, and preparing the fine purple and yellow leather of this country, which it vends in great quantities. From _Dobral_ we begin to ascend the foot of _Haemus_, where the way winds so artificially, as to take away the difficulty of ascent. Here crossing a rapid river, which forms its chanel in the body of the mountain, and thro a variety of diverting shades and clifts, we arrive at length at an open plain on the top of the hill, and therein at a true country paradise of Bulgar Christians called _Challikcavák_[113]; where a new church has been lately obtained for the inhabitants, by the interest of Count _Oetingh_, embassador extraordinary from his Imperial Majesty. Here the damsels of the parish entertained us this evening with a dance, which tho performed with no great art or variety, yet had a certain plainness and simplicity, which was truly grateful. The women here wear as ornaments, a sort of cravat consisting of various silver coins, and large bossy silver bracelets; who dismissed us the next morning with corn strewed in our way.

April xiv.

On the top of the hill we proceed for some time in a level road, thro a stately grove of oaks; after which the way begins to descend, and being shortened by the pleasure of the shady scene on each side, leads unexpectedly into the adjoining plain. In this we travel about an hour, near the foot of the delightful _Haemus_, and then find our quarters ready to receive us at a Christian village, called _Trágoe_. And indeed all the villages, which we had hitherto passed from _Adrianople_, were intirely inhabited by Christians, who by nation are Bulgarians, but by their faith of the Greek communion.

April xv.

We still continue our journey at the foot of the mountain, till in an hour’s time we arrive at _Eskí Stambol_; from whence the way, now leaving _Haemus_ at our backs, carries us in four hours more to the first Turkish village, which had occurred in our progress, called _Boklar_. Mount _Haemus_ being the limit, that divides _Thracia_ from _Bulgaria_, or _Moesia Inferior_ of the antients, we made this day’s journey in the latter; which hereabouts appears as pleasant, as a just mixture of hills and vales, woods and lawns, arable and pasture ground can make it. The above mentioned _Eskí Stambol_ is a name given by the Turks to the remains of an ancient city (possibly the _Oescus Triballorum_) which at the foot of _Haemus_ shews the intire tract of two walls; the inward square, and of about a mile in circumference; the outward almost circular, and containing the compass of five miles. But besides these it has no reliques of carved work, or any inscription, that may give light to the true name or history of the place. In one corner only of the inward wall are several crosses, and an image of the Παναγία, or _Virgin Mother_, barbarously cut, with two or three rude lines of modern Greek characters, in which nothing but the word Βασηλίσαν, or _Queen_, was now legible, and that corruptly written, as it is here copied. By the abovementioned walls runs a small river from the _Haemus_, now called by the Italians _Monte Argentato_, and by the Turks _Batkán_.

April xvi.

Over a country, which is truly rich, as well as pleasant, and curiously varied by easy ascents and descents, we proceed in five hours from _Trágoe_ to _Arnoútcui_; a village whose inhabitants are of the Greek communion, tho its name implies them to be of Albanian original.

April xvii.

Thro a pleasant tract of country, containing a grateful variety of arable ground, pasture, and woods, we arrive in seven hours at _Uzungée Alon_. By the way we passed several villages, as likewise a large market town, wherein are seven _mosques_, and a palace of the _pashá_ of _Nicopoli_, which goes by the name of _Rásgrad_. The _cadí_ of this place, with an _alaí chiaush_, and other officers, came an hour out of town to meet his Excellency.

April xviii.

Thro a like country, only a little more woody, we continue our journey to _Uppéer_. And from thence the day following, where we first begin to see the _Danube_, we proceed thro a rich, pleasant, and well cultivated country, till about twelve a clock we arrive at _Tutracán_, on the banks of the river.

April xx.

We stay at this place, employed in the care of transporting his Excellency’s equipage on the other side of the water; and in the mean time cannot but reflect with pleasure on the agreable tract of ground, which for five days we had passed thro in _Moesia Inferior_. A country, which (however decried by Ovid, and disparaged by our modern geographers) for the richness of its soil, variety of rising and falling ground, elegancy of prospect, and a competent provision of wood and water, is perhaps not to be paralleled by any other spot in the universe. But tho the whole tract of this country, which descends gradually from the foot of the _Haemus_ to the banks of the _Danube_, is rich both in arable and pasture ground; yet the inhabitants seem excessive poor, and are defended from the injuries of the weather by houses very meanly built.

April xxi.

His Excellency and his retinue this day pass the _Danube_, between _Tutracán_ and the mouth of the _Argisch_, about eight in the morning, at a passage about a mile broad. Upon landing, his Excellency was complimented from the Prince of _Valachia_ by his cousin german Count _Tomáso Cantacuzéno_, and was received by a guard of fifty men, and two coaches of six. In the finer of these his Excellency rode about a mile into _Valachia_, along the banks of the _Argisch_, and then alighting was entertained under three rich tents, sent likewise by the Prince for his reception.

April xxii.

His Excellency continued his journey about six hours thro the _Valachian_, a country which on this side is exactly level, and luxuriantly rich, but desolate for want of culture and inhabitants. In the road we meet with wooden crosses, erected in many places to excite the devotion of Christian travelers; as also a convent of monks about two hours short of our _conáck_, near which the _Argisch_ receives the chanel of the _Dembowitza_. At length we arrive at a miserable collection of cottages, scarce deserving the name of a village, but blessed with the convenience of a delicious and healthy water; where we find the tents both of the Prince and his Excellency ready pitched for his entertainment this evening. We were conducted hither by Count _Tomáso_, who undertook the care of the public _tain_ to be furnished for his Excellency.

April xxiii.

We proceed four hours thro a pleasant wood, enriched with _lilia convallium_, and other flowers; and at length pitch our tents at _Popest_, which in the _Valachian_ language signifies the same as _Priest-town_. Here about five in the evening his Excellency received an express by Baron _Minsheim_ from Count _Rabutin_, with the most unhappy news of the death of his Britannic Majesty, on the eighth past.

April xxiv.

About seven this morning his Excellency set forward, and prepared for his entrance into _Bucurest_, which is distant about an hour and half from _Popest_. Not far from his _conáck_ he was met by a rich coach from the Prince of _Valachia_, complimented by his two eldest sons, and attended with a guard of about five hundred men. His Excellency having mounted the coach, preceded by the guard, made his entry about nine a clock; when he was conducted to a spare palace of the Prince, near that of his own residence, and entreated to use it as his own home. It is a fair and gentile house, built of stone, and covered agreably to the custom of this place with wooden tiles; and being furnished with apartments after the Christian fashion, may be esteemed magnificent, when compared with the barbarous edifices of the neighbouring Turks. From the front it looks into a large garden, and from the right wing into another of somewhat a lesser size; both which are agreable, and afford a convenience of shade and verdure.

This afternoon the Prince came on horseback thro the lesser garden to visit his Excellency, who met him at the garden door, and could scarce prevail with him to precede in going up stairs. He returned in an hour, and gave opportunity to his uncle, _Constantinus Cantacuzenus_, who has the office of grand _stolnicho_, or _steward_, in this court, to pay my Lord the same compliment. The name of the Prince is _Joannes Constantinus Bassarabas_, who has enjoyed the principality about thirteen years, having succeeded _Serbanus Cantacuzenus_, brother of the above mentioned _Constantinus Stolnichus_. He is a promoter of good order and discipline in the province, a reviver of architecture, and incourager of learning both at _Bucurest_ and other places of the principality; into which he has introduced two or three printing presses, and from thence published several books useful for the instruction and edification of the Greek church. He is about forty seven years of age, and has ten children, four of them sons; the second of whom, being about fourteen years of age, is well instructed in the Latin and Greek languages. He is of an affable, mild, and courteous temper; generous, careful of the education of his family, and a great encourager of religion; and therefore liberal in his disbursements for printing and giving away books, erecting of monasteries, adorning of churches, and other acts of piety. His uncle, _Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_, is an elderly person, who has traveled over most parts of Europe; is skilled in the controversies of their own church, as well as in the several liberal sciences; is also well versed in politics, and by his counsels chiefly sustains the present Prince, with the honour and interest of the principality.

April xxv.

By nine this morning his Excellency returned the visit to the Prince, who received him at the head of the stairs, and entertained him at first with a conference of about an hour and half long. After this his Excellency was conducted into the dining room, where, at a long table sumptuously spread, the Prince and his Excellency (the former on the right hand) sat down to diner. On the side of his Excellency sat the two eldest sons of the Prince, his son in law, with the other nobles and officers of the court. On the side of the Prince sat in order the retinue of the ambassador, with our conductor Count _Tomaso_ and others. The feast was protracted at least seven hours, during which passed a great variety of courses, consisting of excellent and costly dishes, with plenty of exquisite wine, and many ceremonious healths; the principal of which were to the _Grand Signior_, the _Emperor of Germany_, and the _Queen of England_, all seconded with salvoes from the soldiery in the adjoining court. Here we were made witnesses to a singular air of courtesy, hospitality, and gentile behavior in the Valachian nobility; but more particularly in the Prince himself, who drank to the health and prosperity of each stranger at the table. At the conclusion of the entertainment he veiled his Excellency with a rich silk robe of the Valachian fashion, lined with an excellent sable fur, upon which his Excellency and his retinue return to their own lodgings. The palace of the Prince, with the apartments, and gardens adjoining, are truly noble and magnificent; and tho not to be compared with those of some other Christian princes, yet much preferable to those, in which the ignorant Turks so ambitiously please themselves.

April xxvi.

This morning we had divine service and a sermon in his Excellency’s family, and in the afternoon he paid a short visit to the Patriarch of _Jerusalem_, but afterwards a much longer to the abovementioned _Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_. The Patriarch lodges in a large _kane_, built by the present Prince; where are large apartments and magazines for merchants, the rent of which may yeild about twenty purses _per annum_, and is by the Prince consigned into that Patriarch’s hands for the use of the _Holy sepulcher_.

April xxvii.

I visited the press of this place, where I found them printing some pieces of devotion in Arabic, under the care of the Patriarch of _Antioch_ to be distributed by him about his diocess. Beside this, they were undertaking to print a large _folio_ of the famous _Maximus Hieromonachus_, called Κυριακοδρόμιον, or _The course of the several Sundays throughout the year_. On this occasion I there bought several books, among which one containing all the _Liturgies_, _Hymns_, _Rituals_, _Lessons_, and other devotional tracts, used on all occasions in the Greek church through the course of the whole year.

This morning the Prince gave his Excellency another visit, which he returned in the afternoon, and at the same time took leave, with a deep sense of the generous, honourable, and affectionate treatment he had received in this court. After his return from the Prince, he received a visit of leave from _Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus_, who then presented him with a gentile horse of the Valachian breed, and at the same time two of the same breed and quality were sent him from the Prince, upon which his Excellency answered the present of _Constantinus_ with a diamond ring, valued at three hundred pounds.

The same day I was favoured with a present of several Greek books, lately printed in this province, from Κῦρ Γεώργιος Καστριώτης; as likewise of some others from his Excellency _Constantinus Cantacuzenus_. Towards the evening our curiosity led us half an hour out of town to visit a convent, called in the Valachian tongue the _Catrochán_, and founded by the late Prince _Serbanus Cantacuzenus_. It is accounted the most beautiful of several in this province, founded by the present and preceding princes; and therefore a short account of this may serve for a specimen of the rest. It is situated on the _Dembowitza_, which washes it on two sides; while the other two are adorned with a grove of lovely, close, and shady oaks. The neighbouring pastures afford an entertaining prospect, whereas the parts nearer to the convent are disposed into orderly vineyards, and gardens. The fabric it self is an oblong quadrangle, built of regular and massy stone, divided into cells for about forty monks, with lodgings for the abbot, a common refectory, kitchin, and other public apartments. But in the middle of the area is erected the chapel, of the exact figure of the antient Greek churches, that is, distinguished into the νάρθηξ or _porch_, πρόναος or _outward chapel_, νάος or _body of the church_, βῆμα or _chancel_, and θυσιαστήριον or _altar_; the several parts being regular and stately, supported with pillars, and covered with high cupolas. The ornaments of painting, gilding, and embroidery are exceeding rich; and the pictures so numerously disposed, as to possess every part of the church in the inside, as well as the outside of the front. Here is shewn the monument of _Serbán_ the founder, with his princess, his brother, and other relations; whose pictures, among others, possess a great part of the western wall. Here also are kept the two _horse tails_, allowed by the Turks to be carried before this prince, together with the _bandiéra_ of the province, and another called the _paschal colours_, in which the whole _Trinity_ is profanely represented, and _God the Father_ expressed by the image of a reverend old man, looking over the body of our _Savior_, as it hangs upon the cross.

_Bucurest_ is a large stragling town of a very peculiar make, the outward parts very mean, consisting of houses, the greater part of which is under ground like our cellars, and covered over at the top with straw or bark of trees. The better sort of houses are about the palace of the Prince, which are covered with handsome wooden tiles, the walls built of substantial stone, and the yards and gardens always very wide[114], enclosed with intire trunks of oaks set as near as possible to each other. The streets appear like a continued bridge, being floored from side to side with massy planks of ten yards long, and as many inches thick; which work, however expensive it may seem, is continued thro all the buildings of the place for the extent of some miles together. The sight of the whole is agreable at a distance, by reason of the several houses of the nobility, the palace of the Prince, and the number of churches and convents. These last are all of one form, regularly built, and rising with cupolas, wherein bells are often hung; which I mention, as being the first I had heard since my arrival in Turkey.