Part 7

ΑΓΑΘΗ ΤΥΧΗ ΤΙ. ΚΛΑΥΔΙΟΝ ΦΛΩΡΟΝ ΠΥΚΤΗΝ ΝΕΙΚΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΕΝΔΟΞΩΣ ΠΑΙΔΩΝ ΑΓΩΝΑ ΤΩΝ ΜΕΓΑΛΩΝ ΤΥΧΕΙΩΝ ΑΓΩΝΟΘΕΤΟΥΝ- ΤΟΣ Γ. ΙΟΥΛ. ΕΛΕΩΝΕΩΣ ΥΠΟ ΠΑΙΔΟΤΡΙΒΗΝ ΚΛΑΥΔ.

ΚΥΡΟΣ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΟΥ ΤΗΝ ΤΑΦΗΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΝ ΕΝΑΓΙΣΜΟΝ ΤΩ ΠΑΤΡΙ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΩ ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΟΥ

February xxii.

By nine this morning we transport ourselves and horses by boat from _Jerdáck_ to _Gallipoli_, and in three quarters of an hour arrive by God’s blessing on the European shore; where we bid a joyful farewel to that of Asia, after a severe sea sickness, which I endured in the passage. At which time three years and three months had passed, since my first arrival at _Smyrna_.

_Callipolis_, now called _Gallipoli_, was taken by the Turks in the reign of _Orchán_, and _anno Hegirae_ 760. It is now a city considerably large, but thinly peopled, and decayed in commerce; tho it still plentifully enjoys that of cottons and aniseed. It stands upon a blunt point of land, betwixt two small open bays, of which that to the north is exceeding pleasant, and has on its green banks two fair Turkish sepulchers, the newer and more magnificent being that of _Sinán pashá_. Adjoining is a _kane_ of very gentile fashion, with a _mosque_, and other instances of charity. The southern bay has the walls of the antient arsenal, for the lodging of stores and galleys, which formerly wintered in this place. Besides which the vast rocks, which lie before the town, are very remarkable; being a strange but natural mixture of sand, pebbles, and cockleshells, of which materials all the houses of the town are built. Here I saw a stone figure of our _Savior’s_ baptism in the river _Jordan_, with another of the _B. Virgin_, carved contrary to the practice of the Greek church in _basso relievo_.

February xxiii.

We remain at _Gallipoli_ this and the following day, expecting Mr. Farington’s _caraván_. The breadth of the _Hellespont_ is here much inlarged, which at _Lampsacus_, according to _Xenophon_, was but fifteen furlongs[104].

February xxv.

We set forward from _Gallipoli_ in a smooth and pleasant road, which by degrees ascending begins quickly to show us the narrow _isthmus_ of the _Chersonésus_, with the _Propontis_ on one side, and the gulph of _Cardia_, or _Sinus Melas_, on the other, the extreme neck of land being scarce three miles broad. Our road now inclines to the left hand, and so brings us round the blunt end of the gulph, into which flows the fair river _Melas_, which about the fourth hour from _Gallipoli_ we cross at a regular and well built stone bridge. Hence we have a stony and mountainous way to _Allalmalée_, a Christian village, where we _conáck_. Before bed time we had here the company of the poor ignorant παπᾶς, who among other things told us, that he lately gave the bishop of _Heracléa_ seventy dollars to ordain his son a priest.

February xxvi.

We depart from _Allalmalée_, and in two hours and a half arrive at _Malgara_, where I observed a Turkish drink called _bozók_, being a whitish thick beer made of millet seed. This is a large and pleasant town, abounding in the production of honey, and bears the name of a lady, who redeemed its security from plunder for a vast sum of money, from the first Turkish conqueror. It is now reserved as a place of banishment for the prime ministers of the empire. We proceed homeward till about the sixth hour of this day’s journey, when having lost my watch the preceding evening, we searched the company upon some suspicion we had entertained of a _catergée_, who yesterday joined us; and accordingly we find it concealed in the corner of his breeches. In ten hours we arrive at _Derrícui_ a small Christian village, and there _conáck_. I must not omit, that this day we discovered to the left the mountains of _Samothrace_, the course of the _Hebrus_, and more forward the snowy top of _Rodope_.

February xxvii.

In two hours from our _conáck_ we arrive at _Uzunkuprée_, a town which has its name from the fair adjoining bridge of an hundred and sixty six arches, and by _Saidino_ is called _Ponte d’Erchiene_[105]. We were the full space of fifteen minutes in passing this bridge, and towards the further end, which is the most conspicuous part, we observed ten or twelve heads carved on the battlements, that enclose the bridge, in memory, as it is said, of so many chief workmen strangled by _Sultan Morát_ the first (who founded it) for building it so narrow, as not to admit of two carts at once. In two hours farther we arrive at the sandy and delicious banks of _Hebrus_, just opposite to the city and castle of _Dimotico_, where _Sultan Morát_ began to seat the palace of his emperial residence. From hence we pass along the bank of that slow, but then plentiful river[106], and after two hours and a half take up our lodgings in a cold inconvenient hovel at _Elchilée_.

February xxviii.

By five this morning we proceed in a level sandy road on the banks of the _Hebrus_, where we observe a vast quantity of wild fowl, and by nine arrive at the palace of my Lord Paget in _Adrianople_, being filled with admiration at the beauty of the river, campain, and prospect of so fair a city.

_Adrianople_ is seated on the _Hebrus_, at the place where it receives the _Tunsa_ and the _Harda_. It is a fair and compact city, about five miles in circumference, rising gently on the side of a small hill from the banks of the _Hebrus_ and _Tunsa_[107]. What is there remarkable, may be reduced to the _seraglio_, _mosques_, and _sharshées_. The _seraglio_ is built in a flat and verdant plain, at the foot of the city betwixt the _Hebrus_ and _Tunsa_, but more immediately upon the banks of the latter. It is surrounded almost on all sides with a thick grove of beech and elm, which within form the resemblance of a park, and outwardly yeild a grateful prospect, in regard that the countrey about it is almost wholly naked of wood. A square wall encloses the fabric, which is truly mean, and of a confused intricate figure; but, as is commonly said, well contrived for convenience. The matter is plain free stone, and the covering of lead. Nothing can be more grateful to the eye, than the sight of this level verdant situation; and yet in regard of its lowness, and too near approach to the rivers, nothing more unwholesome. It seems to stand in the very same place, where _Constantine_ gave that famous defeat to _Licinnius_[108].

The _mosques_ observable in this place are those called _Eskijamí_, the _Three Sheríffs_, _Sultan Bajazet_, and _Sultan Selím_. The first of these is so called from its antiquity, which _Morát_ the first here established, and converted to that profane use from a Christian church, of which it still retains the intire figure. The second is to be observed for the abundance of porphyry, which appears in the fabric, and the various architecture of the four _minarées_, together with many serpentine pillars, which support the porticos of the area. The third likewise has many serpentine pillars round the area, and those of interrupted veins and distinct materials, which seem to persuade one, that they are of a cast substance. But the greatest beauty of this city, and as some think of the whole empire, is the _mosque_ of _Sultan Selím_ the second, built by him out of materials brought chiefly from the ruins of _Famagusta_, in the island of _Cyprus_. Yet in regard that the area is not square, nor supported with so rich or correspondent pillars, excepting four that adorn the front, I esteem it inferior to the two noble _mosques_ of _Solymán_ and _Achmét_ at _Constantinople_. Otherwise it is a fair structure, built with great conformity of its several parts, and like a theatre consisting of one stately room ending upwards in a cupola. It is adorned with four regular and beautiful _minarées_, each of which has two hundred forty four stairs leading into the uppermost balcony. For in each of them are three balconies, that imitate the capitals of pillars, between which the whole body of the column is regularly chanel’d. One of these is famous for having three staircases winding one within another, of which one opens into the three balconies, another into the two highest, and the third only into the last of all. From thence we once took the opportunity of viewing the several parts and precincts of the city, the plat of the _seraglio_, the course of the rivers, and the face of the countrey below, with the busy care of the several mortals, wandering like so many ants on that spot of earth then subject to our eye. Here I could not but pleasantly recollect those _templa serena_ of _Lucretius_, _L._ i. ℣. 8.

_Despicere unde queas alios, passimque videre_ _Errare, atque viam palantes quaerere vitae._

Adjoining to _Sultan Bajazet_ I was shewn a madhouse or bedlam, which is a noble building of a round figure, covered with a regular cupola, and having a large area in the middle, and therein a cistern of water; but conveniently divided all round into six chambers made archwise, and opening on one side into the area. Here were kept three madmen, all furnished with clean mats, and tied close down to the pavement by an iron chain fastned about their neck for greater security.

The _sharshées_ are two long and fair porticos, walled with brick or stone on each side, and securely arched over head, so as to resist fire. The shorter of these adjoins to _Sultan Selím_, and is appropriated to the shoemakers: but the other, being about four hundred paces long and six broad, is filled with shops of various trades; all which are shallow niches in the wall of equal hight and breadth, and in general so regularly contrived, that the whole represents a beautiful and rich gallery.

The whole way from _Gallipoli_ to this place lies thro a campain rich and fertile, abounding with villages, and those almost all Christian. However it wants the lovely fountains, frequent woods, and pretious shrubs of Asia.

March iv.

Sir Robert Sutton, successor to my Lord Paget in his embassy to this port, who arrived at _Adrianople_ about Christmas last, had now his audience of the grand _vizír_. My Lord Paget, with the retinue of his own family, and the English merchants now resident in this place, repaired to the palace of his successor about twelve a clock. At the same time came thither from the _vizír_, the _chiaush bashá_, with an horse richly furnished for Sir Robert, and about thirty others for the use of his retinue. From hence the two ambassadors conducted by the _chiaush bashá_, and attended by a large retinue of the English nation, proceeded to the palace of the _vizír_. Upon their arrival into the room of audience, the _vizír_ soon entered, supported by his _kayá_ and the _reis effendi_, and congratulated with acclamations from his whole attendance. He seated himself in a corner of the _sophá_, and the ambassadors sat before him on two stools. After the old ambassador had presented his successor, _Mauro Cordato_, who is master of the ceremonies, and _dragoman_ to the _Ottoman Port_, gave and returned the ordinary forms. Then Sir Robert delivered his Majesty’s letter to the _vizír_, after which both ambassadors were treated with coffee, sherbet, and incense, and the whole ceremony at length concluded with the distribution of about twenty four _caftans_. The _vizír_ is about sixty years of age, of short stature, and a meek serene countenance; tho at this time somewhat moved with concern for the loss of his only son of two years of age. At this ceremony he appeared in the _selimée_ turbant, which is a cap of state, and was conceived to do an honour to the audience. It resembles the form of a sugar loaf, only indented at the bottom on four sides, and bound obliquely with a gold ribban.

March x.

Sir Robert Sutton had his audience of the _Grand Signior_ at the _seraglio_ of this place, whither he rode about seven a clock on a horse of state, conducted as before by the _chiaush bashá_, and attended by all the gentlemen of the English nation. At these audiences it is the custom of the Turks to show somewhat of the discipline of their soldiery, together with the process of their justice at the _diván_. And therefore so soon as his Excellency entered at the first gate of the _seraglio_, into a large and green court, some companies of the _janisaries_, ranged on the opposite side, ran with a great but orderly agility, to seize several dishes of their broth, placed at equal distances on the area of the court; after which they were remanded by the _churbegées_, who ran among the ranks, and instead of words of command ordered them by a certain gentle hissing into their respective stations. During this entertainment his Excellency advanced towards the _diván_, which is an oblong ground room, opening on the front into a gallery, by which only it is separated from the court above mentioned. It is surrounded on three sides with benches, covered with embroidered silk, and the floor is laid with carpets; otherwise it has no ornaments, nor embellishments of the walls. On the middle of the principal bench, where it faces the door, sat the grand _vizír_, having one crimson cushion under him, and another to support his feet, by which only he is distinguished from other ministers of the _diván_. On his right hand upon the same bench sat the _caimekám_, and _Abdollá pashá_ son of the late _Mustaphá Kioprili_; but on his left hand the two _cadileskérs_, the one for Europe, and the other for Asia. The two side benches were took up on the right hand by the _nishangeé bashá_, and on the left by the _tefterdár_. Sitting in this order, and maintaining a profound silence, they dispatched several causes of _meum_ and _tuum_, in the sight of the ambassador and his retinue; in which there was no other process, than the reading several succinct cases to the _vizír_, together with the depositions of the witnesses, upon which he pronounced his verdict, and the parties were immediately dismissed. But in these, and other affairs of the like kind, the _reis effendi_ and _teskergée bashá_ also assist; the former of which acts as solicitor and secretary to the _diván_, and the latter is the gentleman usher, who carries all messages and papers betwixt the _Grand Signior_ and the _vizír_. In the mean time the _Grand Signior_, tho he is never personally present in the _diván_, yet he is at his pleasure a witness and overseer of all that passes there, by means of a lattice window, which looks out of his apartments just over the seat of the _vizír_. These ceremonies ended, there were brought in divers tables and placed before the _vizír_, the _caimekám_, the _nishangée_, and the _tefterdár_; all which being presently furnished with various Turkish dishes, the ambassador sat down to eat with the _vizír_, and several gentlemen of the English nation with the other ministers. After this repast (the _vizír_ having first demanded leave for an audience) the ambassador and all the rest of the English gentlemen retired into a distant part of the gallery, which fronts the chamber of the _diván_, and other lodgings of the _seraglio_, where they were all vested, and then sat down in order till the _diván_ arose, and the several ministers proceeded to the apartments of the _Grand Signior_, the latter preceding, and the _vizír_ closing the procession. Soon after his Excellency was called to take his audience, to which himself, and four gentlemen, who were permitted to follow him, were conducted by two _capigées_, who led them on each hand, in a rude and hasty manner. By these they were thus carried from the outward gallery into a square paved court, and from thence into a railed entry, that landed them immediately in a ground room, which was the presence chamber of the _Grand Signior_. It was a small room, of a square figure, lined on the sides and floor with crimson silk, and that embellished with an high and thick embroidery of golden branches. In one corner was erected an high _sophá_ about two yards square, adorned with four rich cushions, and an answerable _minderá_, all of which were in a manner intirely covered with embroidery of pearl. On this sat the _Grand Signior_, regarding the ambassador in an oblique posture, and sinking so deep in the _minderá_, that his thighs and legs were not to be distinguished. The other ornaments of the room were two windows, each furnished with two cushions, answerable to those of the _sophá_; and more remarkable than all the rest, a royal chimney cloth, embroidered like the covering of the floor and walls, but enriched beyond these with various large jewels set in the corners of the work, such as pearls, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and the like. The ambassador stood about three yards distance from the _Grand Signior_, where he delivered himself to _Mauro Cordato_ in Italian, and he interpreted his credentials immediately to the _Sultan_. But his Majesty’s letter being handed to _Mauro Cordato_ by his Excellency, it was by him delivered to the _nishangée_, by him to _Abdollá pashá_, and by him to the _vizír_, who laid it before the _Grand Signior’s_ feet. Upon this the _Sultan_ directed himself to the _vizír_ in these words: “We esteem the King of England as our freind. On our part, all due regard shall be had to the sacred capitulations made with him; and accordingly be it your care to see them maintained.” This said, the ambassador was dismissed the audience room, with the four gentlemen, who only were permitted to attend the ceremony. Upon which all the English immediately mounted at the outward gate of the _seraglio_, and there stood in rank and order to see the _janisaries_ dismissed; which is done in a regular but hasty manner, and seems to resemble the _decursio_ of the Roman army. After this the several Ministers of the _diván_, begining with the least, and ending with the _vizír_, made a pompous procession on horses of state, adorned with broad guilded bridles, and housing of the French fashion, wrought with nothing but entire thread of gold. After these followed his Excellency on an horse and furniture of the same quality, and so returned with the attendance of several _chiaushes_, and all those of the English nation, to his own palace.

The habit of the several ministers of the _diván_ is exactly of the same form with the _caftans_, which they ordinarily present; but the matter is either silk, or fine grogran, fur’d with sable. Their turbant is that called the _mugevezée_; but that of the _Grand Signior_ is the same with the common _agás_, only distinguished by three small, but fine and curious black feathers, with waves of ash colour, being the outmost feathers on the wing of the _arguron_, a rare Muscovian bird. The present made by the ambassador to the _Grand Signior_ consisted of sixty pieces of different materials, as cloth, silk, sattin, velvet, and the like, all of them at the charge of the company.

March xviii.

My Lord Paget had this day his audience of leave of the grand _vizír_, where, besides the ordinary forms and ceremonies of coffee, sherbet, incense, and _caftans_, the letters of the _vizír_ and _Sultan_ were brought in by the _reis effendi_; and being by him reverently kissed and delivered to the _vizír_, were by the _vizír_ kissed in the same manner, and delivered to the ambassador, by whom they were kissed again, and committed to Mr. Paget, who bore them respectfully on his two hands during the whole procession to his Excellency’s palace. The _Sultan’s_ letter was enclosed in a cover of cloth of gold, about a foot broad, and a yard long, being wrote on fine Persian paper made of silk.

March xix.

His Excellency had audience of leave of the _mufti_, a reverend person about seventy years of age, somewhat corpulent, of an insolent and proud aspect, well learned in the Turkish law and polity, and formerly _hogia_ to the present _Sultan_. He is extremely covetous, and at the same time prodigiously rich, having hoarded, as it is said, one great part of the current gold of the empire, and likewise purchased many vast and extensive possessions about _Erzerum_ and _Trebisond_, which is his native countrey.

March xx.

His Excellency had audience of leave of the _caimekám_, a courteous, affable, and obliging person, of no great estate or character, except that his wife is sister to the _Sultan_. The same day, being Friday, I saw the _Grand Signior_ riding from his palace to the _mosque_, where he paid his public devotion. He was preceded by several _chiaushes_, then by six led horses, and then by several _solácks_, habited in short vests, and adorned with high caps of gilt silver. On each side of his horse walked three _churbegées_, bearing on their heads so many beautiful white ostrich feathers; and behind him followed on stately horses his _selictár agá_, and _kyslér agá_. He is of a low stature, but broad and corpulent; has a short neck, a large squat yellow fleshy face, a flat nose, a low forehead, with cheeks remarkably long and squabby. In his coins he stiles himself, _The mighty Sultan of the earth and sea, a Sultan son of a Sultan, Sultan Mustafá Han, son of emperor Mahomet_.

March xxi.

His Excellency had audience of leave of the _nakéib effendi_, who is the son of the _mufti_, and by patent the designed successor of his father. He is about thirty years of age, of good parts and behaviour, naturally arrogant, but made shew on this occasion of an affected courtesy.

March xxiv.

I this day saw the heads of five robbers brought from _Natolia_, and laid at the gate of the _seraglio_, where by custom they are to remain three suns. They are only the skins of so many criminals heads stuffed with straw.

April ii. _A. D._ 1702.

His Excellency, my Lord Paget, now drawing near to his departure was this day invited to the grand _vizír’s_, where among many singular tokens of that esteem, which this court truely bears to his person and character, he received a splendid feast, together with the present of a sable vest to the value of two purses; as also a noble horse, and sumptuous furniture, computed at three more.

April iii.