Part 6

I returned again to my lodgings at _Galata_, and the next day crossed the water in company with Mr. Goodfellow to _Constantinople_, where after a visit to the _mosque_ of _Solymán_ the _Magnificent_, we obtained leave to ascend one of the _minarées_, from which the _muezins_ call the Turks to their _namáz_, being about an hundred and twenty feet high. Here we took a delightful prospect of the whole situation and extent of _Stambol_, as likewise of _Galata_, _Pera_, and _Scutari_, with the neighbouring seas, canals, and land that encloses them. But the peculiar happiness of this day was the employment of about two hours, which we leisurely spent in viewing the stupendous church of _Sophía_[86], now profaned by its conversion into a Turkish _mosque_. It chiefly merits the regard of any curious traveler for the reliques of its rich mosaic work; the variety of pretious marble[87], which adorns it, consisting of serpentine, alabaster, and porphyry; and the architecture of its large and flat tho sublime cupola[88], in which are still the entire figures of _Christ_ and the twelve _Apostles_, and in the windows many inscriptions in mosaic work from the _New Testament_.

May xxiii.

I returned again to _Belgrade_, as well for the opportunity of confirming my health, as for continuing my respects to his Excellency the Lord Paget.

June vi.

I waited on his Excellency from _Belgrade_ to _Pera_, going first to _Boiukderé_ and thence down the _Bosphorus_ by boat.

June x.

I waited on his Excellency, as well to wish him a good journey, as to receive his commands for _Smyrna_.

June xiii.

I returned to the house of my esteemed freind, Mr. Goodfellow, in _Galata_; and the day following took leave of the Dutch ambassador and his family.

June xvi.

I made a visit by boat to the _Seven Towers_, now a prison for persons of quality, since by the fate of war it has fallen into the hands of the Turks, but antiently the _Porta Janicula_ of _Constantinople_. The beautiful remains of this gate are still admirable, tho by the Turks suffered to be almost concealed by a dead wall, and the shade of the neighbouring trees. It is a regular and carved arch of white marble, supported by two beautiful pillars, adorned in the pilasters with a sculpture representing several military affairs, and flanked on each side the pillars with twelve tablets of carved work extremely well performed, which contain several poetical stories. Among the rest is _Hercules_ and the _Nemeaean lion_, the beast prodigious and terrible, but confessing its conqueror by an agreable posture; _Luna_ and _Endymion_; a winged _Pegasus_, managed by some of the _Muses_; a pourtraiture of the known combat of whirlbats; and an imperial figure, crowned by two celestial machines.

Returning by boat along the walls of the city, I observed its crooked figure and posture to the sea; and noted also the several square towers variously interspersed at unequal distances, each bearing an inscription much to the same purport, as may be seen by the following copy, which I took of them in the boat.

On a tower near the _Porta Janicula_:

ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΙΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΩΝϹΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΥ ΠΙϹΤΩΝ ΕΝ Κ̅Ω̅ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ

On a tower in that part of the wall, which includes the _seraglio_:

ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΜΕΓΑΛΟΥ ΕΝ ΚΥΡΙΩ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΩϹ ΚΑΙ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟϹ.

Round the same _seraglio_:

ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΕΝ ΧΡΙϹΤΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟϹ

About the same place:

ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΜΙΧΑΗΛ ΠΙϹΤΩΝ ΕΝ Κ̅Ω̅ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ.

June xvii.

About midday I saw the ceremonies of the _dervíse_ convent of the order called _Meuleví_ at _Pera_, consisting of their _namáz_, somewhat longer than is ordinary at other times and places. After which followed a sermon, that is, a gallimaufry of dreams and nonsense, pronounced by the prior of the convent, as he sat cross-leg’d on the seat of a two elbowed wooden chair. This was succeeded by their music in a gallery over the door; during which about fourteen _dervíses_ led up a religious dance in the area of their theatre (for such is the figure and contrivance of it) in which they turn round almost in the same place with incredible swiftness, without either weariness or giddiness, for the space of half an hour. By this exercise their brain is so habitually fortified against dizziness, that one of them was able to hand upon the half moon of a _minarée_ belonging to the _Solymanjá_, and from thence to salute the _Grand Signior_ at his palace of _Cushcui_, at the same time firing off a pistol, and drinking a dish of coffee.

About five this evening I took leave of Mr. Goodfellow, and embarked upon a boat manned with seven hands, which I had hired for ten dollars to transport my self, my horse, and two servants from _Galata_ to _Montagnia_, being the space of two leagues. When having a fair wind, which by degrees increased, and exposed me to the fatigue of a nauseous sea sickness, after midnight I entered the two capes, which form the _Sinus Cianus_. In this bay is that famous fountain mentioned by _Virgil_:

_Hylan nautae quo fonte relictum_ _Clamassent; cum littus, Hyla, Hyla, omne sonaret[89]._

June xviii.

By six this morning I landed safe at _Montagnia_, a small Turkish town, which seems to have been the _Apaméa_ of the antients; _Cius_, or _Prusa ad Arganthonium_, being now a little village, that lies farther towards the utmost corner of the bay. Here I hire a guide and horse to carry my self, servants, and baggage to _Prusia_, antiently _Prusa ad Olympum_, where by God’s blessing I arrive safely about midday; and taking up my lodgings in the great silk _kane_, I there determine to repose till to morrow morning.

_Prusia_ is a large and fair city, situate at the foot of _Olympus Mysenus_, a mountain of exceeding hight, and covered with perpetual snow; which from its bowels furnishes the adjacent city with many large and plentiful fountains, and by the same means gives nourishment to the beautiful and flourishing trees, which intermix themselves with the houses of the place. These are chiefly mulberries, which maintain the industrious worm, that produces the white and lovely silk of _Prusia_; which I here saw spun from caldrons of hot water, the several cods yeilding at once three threads upon a wheel, turned by the person who tends the caldron. Besides the several cold streams issuing from _Olympus_, there flows from the same origin a plentiful sulphureous chanel, which is collected into four hot natural baths much frequented, and with marvelous success, as is here generally beleived. The several fabrics of the baths are very stately, of which I shall describe that, which is called the new one, for a specimen of the rest. It consists first of a large oblong room paved with marble, enclosed all round with free stone, and covered at the top with three noble cupolas leaded on the outside. Round the inward walls of the room are _sophás_, about a yard high, and two broad, sufficient for the undressing of three hundred men. In the middle is a round stone cistern, overflowing with cold water, which continually washes the pavement, and serves for other uses of the bagnio. From this room you enter into a second moderately warm, having on the sides oblong troughs of hot water, and in the middle a fountain of cold; the walls, roof, and pavement being all of white polished marble. From hence you are led by the attendants of the bagnio into a third apartment of an orbicular figure, paved, roofed, and walled with richer marble, that is, of more curious veins and various colours. The pavement hereof is sunk into a round cistern about six yards diameter, which is constantly full of hot water to the depth of about six feet, and surrounded with a stone bench for the ease of those, who care not to swim, or walk about the cistern. As the water constantly runs from thence by passages at the bottom of the cistern, so is it continually supplied by three large chanels, which from as many sides of the room yeild a plentiful stream of water, almost scalding at the first touch.

Besides these baths there is not much remarkable in _Prusia_, except what may be collected from the history of the place; as that it has the ruins of a castle, built by one of the _Comneni_, as appears from the following inscription:

ΑΝΗΓΕΡΘΗ ΟΥΤΟϹ Ο ΠΥΡΓΟϹ ΠΑΡΑ ΤΟΥ ΕΥϹΕΒΕϹΤΑΤΟΥ ΗΜΩΝ ΒΑϹΙΛΕΩϹ ΘΕΟΔΟΡΟΥ ΚΟΜΝΗΝΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΛΑϹΚΑΡΙ ... ΜΗΝΙ ΟΚΤΟΒΡΙΩ

It was made the first capital of the Turkish empire by _Osmán_, or _Ottoman_, the founder of that monarchy. And it has the monument not only of the said _Ottoman_, but likewise of his immediate successors, _Orchán_, _Solymán_, _Amurát_, _Bagazet_, and _Mahomet_ the first.

June xxi.

This morning about eleven a clock I set forward on my journey, in company of a _caraván_ bound to several parts on the road to _Smyrna_. With these I now travel three hours, and then _conáck_ with them upon a convenient plat of grass, on the plains of _Prusia_. In the midway we cross the river _Hippius_ runing thro these plains into the _Sinus Cianus_.

June xxii.

We travel this day to the left of the _Palus Artynia_, which being fed from mount _Olympus_, extends itself the length of many miles, and shews several little islands, in which are one or two compact Greek towns. At length the lake vents itself by the chanel of the river _Rhyndacus_, at which we arrive about six a clock this evening, and passing it at a long wooden bridge, near the ruins of another built of stone, we take up our _conáck_ on the opposite bank, in a village now called _Ulubat_, but antiently _Apollonia ad Rhyndacum_.

June xxiii.

We ride eight hours, and then bait on the banks of a little river, which runs towards those called the _Adrastian plains_. Three hours farther, at the village of _Susegierlíck_ we cross the fair large and sandy chanel of the _Aesépus_, and proceeding still two hours more we at length _conáck_ upon the hills.

June xxiv.

We this day pass a street called the _Irongate_, and in seven hours arrive at the fair capacious _kane_ of _Mandahóra_, where are seven rude porphyry pillars thought to be of _Trojan_ original. Here we repose till towards evening, and then once more crossing the _Aesépus_, which rising in _Ida_ continues its course under the houses of this village, we proceed about an hour, and then lodge in a grassy plat about an hour to the left of _Balihísar_.

June xxv.

Rising now a little after midnight we proceed seven hours, and then resting in the woods till three in the afternoon, we pass by the usual _conáck_ of _Kurugelchíck_, and one hour and an half from thence at length lodge in a pleasant green spot of ground on the mountain _Temnus_.

June xxvi.

By four a clock we proceed, and having passed the _Temnus_, by seven a clock we cross the chanel of the _Caicus_, which here is but small, not being far distant from its fountain head. But an hour farther at _Gelemba_ we again observe it now much enlarged, and runing by the _kane_ and houses of that place, from whence it bends its course on the left hand to _Pergamus_. At this _kane_ we repose half an hour, and afterwards in the plains two or three hours more; but about midday we again remount, and in four hours cross the _Hyllus_, at a strait betwixt two hills; in an hour after which, in the midst of a fruitful and delicious plain, we arrive at _Thyatira_.

June xxvii.

I repose this day at _Thyatira_, which by the Turks is now called _Akhísar_. My design in staying here was to observe the scattered remains of architecture, which are to be seen in many places, together with some inscriptions. The most remarkable of these is one published, but erroneously, by Sir _George Wheler_[90]; which I copied from a stone coffin, on which it is cut.

ΦΑΒΙΟΣ ΖΩΣΙΜΟΣ ΚΑΤΑΣΚΕΥΑΣΑΣ ΣΟΡΟΝ ΕΘΕΤΟ ΕΠΙ ΤΟ- ΠΟΥ ΚΑΘΑΡΟΥ ΟΝΤΟΣ ΠΡΟ ΤΗΣ ΠΟΛΕΩΣ ΠΡΟΣ ΤΩΙ ΣΑΜ- ΒΑΘΕΙΩΙ[91] ΕΝ ΤΩΙ ΧΑΛΔΑΙΟΥ ΠΕΡΙΒΟΛΩΙ ΠΑΡΑ ΤΗΝ ΔΗ- ΜΟΣΙΑΝ ΟΔΟΝ ΕΑΥΤΩΙ ΕΦ ΩΙ[92] ΤΕΘΗ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΙ ΓΛΥΚΥ- ΤΑΤΗΙ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΙ ΑΥΡΗΛΙΑΙ ΠΟΝΤΙΑΝΗΙ ΜΗΔΕ- ΝΟΣ ΕΧΟΝΤΟΣ ΕΤΕΡΟΥ ΕΞΟΥΣΙΑΝ ΘΕΙΝΑΙ ΤΙΝΑ ΕΙΣ ΤΗΝ ΣΟΡΟΝ ΤΑΥΤΗΝ ΟΣ ΔΕ ΑΝ ΤΟΛΜΗΣΗ Η ΠΟΙΗΣΗ ΠΑΡΑ ΤΑΥΤΑ ΔΩΣΕΙ ΜΕΝ ΕΙΣ ΤΗΝ ΠΟΛΙΝ ΘΥΑΤΕΙ- ΡΗΝΩΝ ΑΡΓΥΡΙΟΥ ΔΗΝΑΡΙΑ ΧΕΙΛΙΑ ΠΕΝΤΑΚΟΣΙΑ ΕΙΣ ΔΕ ΤΟ ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΟΝ ΤΑΜΕΙΟΝ ΔΗΝΑΡΙΑ ΔΙΣΧΙΛΙΑ ΠΕΝ- ΤΑΚΟΣΙΑ ΓΕΙΝΟΜΕΝΟΣ ΥΠΕΥΘΥΝΟΣ ΕΞΩΘΕΝ ΤΩΙ ΤΗΣ ΤΥΜΒΩΡΥΧΙΑΣ ΝΟΜΩΙ ΤΑΥΤΗΣ ΤΗΣ ΕΠΙΓΡΑΦΗΣ ΕΓΡΑΦΗ ΑΠΛΑ ΔΥΩ ΩΝ ΤΟ ΕΤΕΡΟΝ ΕΤΕΘΗ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΑΡ- ΧΕΙΟΝ ΕΓΕΝΕΤΟ ΕΝ ΤΗΙ ΛΑΜΠΡΟΤΑΤΗΙ ΘΥΑΤΕΙΡΗ- ΝΩΝ ΠΟΛΕΙ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΩΙ ΚΑΤΙΛΛΙΩΙ ΣΕΒΗΡΩΙ ΜΗΝΟΣ ΑΥΔΗΝΑΙΟΥ[93] ΤΡΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΔΕΚΑΤΗΙ ΥΠΟ ΜΗΝΟΦΙΛΟΝ ΙΟΥΛΙΑΝΟΥ ΔΗΜΟΣΙΟΝ[94]

About five in the evening I begin to move, having now left the _caraván_, and purposing to travel all night towards _Magnesia_. Before it is dark I again ford the _Hyllus_, and after that proceed over those fair plains, in which _Scipio Asiaticus_ first won the empire of Asia for the Romans by the defeat of king _Antiochus_[95], as we find it described by Livy.

June xxviii.

By nine a clock this morning I reach _Magnesia_, where I repose myself the remaining part of the day with the following night. And then mounting by five the next morning, after a refreshment of about three hours I arrive at _Smyrna_ safe, and in good health, by three a clock in the afternoon.

Μόνῳ τῷ Θεῷ τῷ ὁδηγοῦντι δόξα.

An Account of a journey from _Smyrna_ to _Adrianople_, at the end of the year MDCCI, and begining of MDCCII.

February x. _A. D._ 1701.

This day about nine a clock, being a very rainy morning, I began my departure for _Adrianople_ together with Mr. Farington; being favoured with the company of Consul Raye, Signior _Hochepied_, and nine or ten of our nation, as far as _Hadgelar_, where we were detained this evening by the rain.

February xi.

The rain continuing, we still remain at _Hadgelar_, in the house and company of Signior _Laspaul_. Among the sepulchers adjoining to this village, upon a stone pillar, are to be seen the four following imperfect inscriptions, cut at different times.

Β. Η. ΣΕΥ .. ΤΥΧΗΣ ... Π. ΣΕΒΗΡΕΙΝΑ ΣΕΒ.

ΤΗΣ ΑΣΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΔΙΣ ΝΕΩΚΟΡΩΝ ΤΩΝ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩΝ ΣΜΥΡΝΑΙΩΝ ΠΟΛΙΣ ΑΝΕΣΤΗΣΕΝ ΕΠΙ ΑΝΘΥΠΑΤΟΥ ΠΟΛΛΙΑΝΟΥ ΓΕΝΤΙΑΝΟΥ[96]

FL. VALENTIANO ET FL. VALENTI VICTORR. S. P.

CONSTAN .......... CONSTANT ......... .. NORR. CAESS. D D ....... VI ....

February xii.

We set forward this morning by six a clock, and about midday journeying to the left of mount _Sipylus_, and the fair city of _Magnesia_, we first cross a small bridge over a river, which feeds the _Hermus_, and about one a clock pass the _Hermus_ itself, on a bridge of an hundred and sixty paces in length. From hence we ride half an hour on the silver banks of that pleasant river, and thence over the plain to _Tartalécui_, where we _conáck_.

February xiii.

We proceed on those fair plains, which lead towards _Thyatira_, and within an hour of the town come to the _Hyllus_ or _Phrygius_, not now passable at its usual ford; we therefore ride along its banks, and crossing near to _Thyatira_ arrive there in six hours from our last _conáck_. This city is seated in a pleasant and fruitful plain, well watered and wooded, and rich in many productions, but particularly that of excellent cottons. About the city I observed a great quantity of misseltoe on pear and almond trees, so thick on some of them, as to form the appearance of a true evergreen, covered with its own leaves and branches. And the like I afterwards observed on an alder, not far from _Sorrícui_. I here took these three Greek inscriptions, which have not, that I remember, been observed by others; and were before omitted by me, when at this place. The first of which is as follows.

ΑΓΑΘΗΙ ΤΥΧΗΙ ΟΙ ΠΕΡΙ ΤΟΝ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΑ ΤΩΝ ΠΡΩΤΩΝ ΓΥΜΝΑΣΙΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟ ΑΡΧΑΙΟΝ ΤΟΥ ΤΡΙΤΟΥ ΝΕΑΝΙΣΚΙΟΙ[97] ΑΥΡ. ΘΗΣΕΑ ΝΙΚΗΦΟΡΟΥ ΘΥΑΤΕΙΡΗΝΟΝ ΝΙΚΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΕΝ- ΔΟΞΩΣ ΠΑΓΚΡΑΤΙΟΝ ΕΝ ΤΩΙ ΥΠΟ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΕΠΙΤΕΛΟΥ- ΜΕΝΩΙ ΕΠΙΝΕΙΚΩΙ ΣΕΒΗΡΕΙΩΙ ΑΓΩΝΙ ΥΠΟ ΕΠΙΣΤΑΤΗΝ ΑΥΡ. ΑΤΤΙΚΟΝ ΖΩΣΙΜΟΥ[98]

The second is this:

ΛΙΚΙΝΝΙΟΝ ΡΟΥΦΙΝΟΝ ΣΥΓΚΛΗΤΙΚΟΝ ΥΙΟΝ ΛΙΚΙΝΝΙΟΥ ΡΟΥΦΙΝΟΥ ΟΙ ΠΕΡΙ ΤΟΝ ΗΡΑΚΛΕΑ ΠΡΩΤΩΝ ΓΥΜΝΑΣΙΩΝ ΝΕΑΝΙΣΚΟΙ ΚΑΙ ΚΑΤΑ ΤΟ ΑΡΧΑΙΟΝ ΤΟΥ ΤΡΙΤΟΥ.

The third thus:

ΚΛΑΥΔΙΑ .... ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕ ΤΟΝ ΒΩΜΟΝ ΜΟΣΚΙΛΙΑΝΩ ΤΩ ΤΕΚΝΩ ΜΝΗΜΗΣ ΕΝΕΚΕΝ ΕΑΝ ΔΕ ΤΙΣ ΜΕΤΑΘΗ ΑΥΤΟ ΥΠΟΚΕΙΣΕΤΑΙ ΤΩ ΦΙΣΚΩ 𐆖. Φ.

To these may be added the following military epitaph.

C. IVL. CRE. S. CAEN. S. MILES XII L. VIXIT ANNOS XXXV MILITAVIT ANNIS XV FL CASTVS FRATER ET PRIMVS HERES EX TESTA MENTO IVSSVS POSVIT

February xiv.

We set out by eight a clock this morning, and at an hour’s distance from the city once more cross the _Hyllus_ at the meeting of two opposite hills, which shut in the plains of _Thyatira_. Hence we pass thro a forest to _Gelemba_, an hour before which place occur caves with square and regular doors cut out of solid rocks. At _Gelemba_ we lodge in the great _kane_, by the door of which at the distance of ten or twelve yards runs the famous _Caicus_. Here we drank a pleasant sort of Turkish liquor, made of grapes steeped in water with flower of mustard seed.

February xv.

By break of day we set forward, and in one hour’s travel begin to mount the foot of _Temnus_, a low but large and difficult mountain, and at the same place cross the first branch of the _Caicus_, not far from its fountain. We pass the rest of this day thro a stony road on the _Temnus_, and upon the same mountain six hours from our _conáck_ lodge at the unpleasant _Kurugelchíck_; where we were joined by two Turks, _Mustaphá_ and _Chalíl_, who accompanied us to _Adrianople_.

February xvi.

We travel still over the _Temnus_, and on our right hand discover a large open vale on the top of the mountain, rich and well cultivated. In somewhat more than six hours we had passed the _Temnus_, and enter into a rich plain extended all along the backside of _Ida_, now _Cordág_; at the foot of which, about four miles distant from the road we descry the agreable seat of _Balihísar_. From this side of _Ida_ thro a rich and fertile campain flows the river _Aesépus_, now called _Simow_ by the Turks, which we cross by an old bridge at the village of _Mandahóra_, and there take our _conáck_ in a large and convenient _kane_; which is more to be noted for its seven large pillars of course porphyry, now employed to support the roof of this barbarous edifice, but might possibly once stand in some fabric of antient _Troy_, from whence _Mandahóra_ is distant about ten hours.

February xvii.

By eight a clock we set forward from _Mandahóra_, leaving the _Aesépus_ to surround those hills on our right hand, whilst we proceed a shorter way, over small hills and dales, to meet it again in six hours and a half at _Susegierlíck_, where we were entertained in the public _kane_ with excellent pike taken in that river.

February xviii.

We begin to bend our course more directly towards the _Hellespont_, and in order thereto proceed over a tract of gentle mountains, which _Homer_ calls πόδα νείατον Ἴδης[99]; now frequented with wild beasts, but pleasant for the prospect they afford us on our right hand, whilst we pursue with our eye the whole course of the _Aesépus_ almost as far as _Mihalíck_, where it enters the sea. In three hours we pass by an old village and adjoining castle called _Minyás_, which name it likewise lends to the neighbouring plain and lake; the former of which I take to have been antiently called the plains of _Zelia_, and the latter the λίμνη Δασκυλίτις[100]. Not far from hence flows a river by the modern name of _Mulvetelée_, passing into the adjoining lake; after which are small hills and pleasant villages, till in five hours we descend into the plains of _Zelia_, which are pleasant, fertile, and well cultivated. Here we pass thro large fields of wallnut trees, which bring us in five hours and a half to the banks of a fair and broad river; which I take to be the _Tarsius_ of the antients, and by the Turks is now vulgarly called _Tarza_. We were here obliged to ferry over with our horses three together in a boat, the stream being not securely fordable. In one hour and half from thence, thro a level and verdant campain to the left of the above mentioned lake, we come to _Humumlée_, and there _conáck_. The lake we leisurely viewed from our _conáck_, and could compute it to be about thirty miles in circumference, being always full of water, and stored with plenty of fish, among which it then furnished us with delicious pikes. We were here informed, that the river, we lately passed, empties it self into this lake, from whence by a new chanel it takes its course to _Mihalíck_, where together with the _Aesépus_ it soon after falls into the sea. And directly beyond this lake we then beheld the fair exalted hills of _Cyzicus_, and the _Peninsula Cyzicena_.

February xix.

By six this morning we leave _Humumlée_, where we had been lodged not inconveniently in a farmer’s house, and riding thro a continued campain begin to view the snowy head of _Ida_. But in some time we again lose sight of it, and in five hours from our setting out approach to _Bozacgée_, seated in the _Adrastian_ plains[101]; and at the same place to a large and fair river, by the Turks named _Bocléw_[102], which we leave on our left hand, till in two hours we cross it by a dangerous wooden bridge near _Sorrícui_[103], and there _conáck_.

February xx.

By six we leave _Sorrícui_, and proceed a little way, where a fair is held at _St. Georgetide_, which continues for the space of ten days, and is much frequented. We then mount a high and steep hill, which bears a stately and extended wood of oak; the lower shrubs of which produce a quantity of galls, and at the roots of these the ground is overspread with an excellent and well scented sage. On the top of this hill in three hours we have a near prospect of the sea, and isle of _Marmora_, with one side of the _Peninsula_ of _Cyzicus_. By the fifth hour we begin to descend on the other side into a pleasant and green plain, and by the seventh arrive at _Dimotico_, a market town, vulgarly so called from the corruption, as I suppose, of the antient _Didymotichos_. At this place occurs a moderate river with a wooden bridge; and an hour beyond the town a large one with a fair bridge of stone, built by the munificence of _Sultan Mahomet_ the fourth. Here are to be observed the marks of a royal way, denoted by two equal and regular barrows on each side, by which lies the _Grand Signior’s_ road to the wars. Hitherto our way had all along surrounded mount _Ida_, which often favoured us with the sight of its hoary head, and many rivers flowing from its watry bowels. We had now an hour farther to reach our _conáck_ at _Pismetlée_; but losing our way, we were conducted by a cowherd (who was cudgel’d into this civility by _Mustaphá bey_) to a small pleasant village an hour farther in our journey, where being obliged to force our reception, we were thereupon lodged in the _mosque_ of the place. This will appear an instance very singular in Turkey, and was looked upon as an abomination by the _imám_ of the parish; who could not enter that place of his worship on the following morning, without saluting us three times with _Stifer Alláh_, that is, _God forbid_.

February xxi.

In an hard road betwixt barren hills we travel this day towards _Jerdáck_, a village which is the _scale_ for passing the _Hellespont_, seated within half an hour of the antient _Lampsacus_. This road led us within four hours to the shore of the _Propontis_, along which we proceed four hours farther to our _conáck_, where the sea contracts it self into that strait chanel, betwixt _Lampsacus_ and _Callipolis_. Here we find a large _kane_, in which are about twelve antient marble pillars, each of one fair intire stone, some round, others chanel’d, and of various orders; all which I conclude to have been undoubted reliques of the antient _Lampsacus_. In the yard of the _mosque_ at _Jerdáck_ I took the two following Greek inscriptions