Part 4

For such monuments of Christianity, as are here visited by travelers, we are beholden to the tradition of the neighbouring Christians; who shew the place of _St. Mark’s_ and _St. Paul’s_ church, together with the standing walls of that dedicated to _St. John_; which last apostle, returning from his banishment in _Patmos_ upon the death of _Domitian_, lived, and died, and was interred at _Ephesus_[45]. The church of _St. John_, tho still entire, is however miserably transformed, and converted into the profane use of a Turkish _mosque_. Like all other _mosques_ of the better fashion, it has a square and spacious yard on the north side, with three different entrances belonging to it. Those to the east and west are reasonably well beautified, being adorned above the portals with curious Turkish sculptures, and materials of rich polished marble. From this yard we enter the _mosque_ by five wooden doors, all of which are carved to an exquisite perfection. Within appear a splendid pulpit and _kiblé_, both consisting of wrought marble, and the latter more particularly imbellished with painting and gilding of great art and variety. But what are most justly admired and celebrated by all, who have traveled hither, are the four pillars of granate marble, standing in a right line from east to west, and supporting two cupolas, that compose the roof. They are so far disproportioned, that the least is almost three, and the biggest near four feet diameter; besides which the pedestals of some are quite covered with the floor, and all besides one, which is of the compound order, have lost their antient capitals. All these are circumstances, which unanswerably demonstrate, that these pillars are now transported from their first places. And in truth, when the whole fabric is diligently compared with all other Turkish _mosques_, and this consideration further added, that there appears no sign of an altar to the east, or door to the west end; it will be more than probable, that nothing but the southern wall can be the remains of a Christian church. About a mile to the south west of this place, and in the midst of the antient city, stands an high wall, and adjoining thereto a stately gatehouse, in which are these words, most curiously engraven:

.... ACCENSO .... .... RENSI ET ASIAE ...

Together with this imperfect inscription are to be seen the defaced figure of a man on horseback, and another of a serpent twisted round a tree. This is by most adjudged to be a Christian ruin; and indeed if we consider its beauty and grandeur, as it can be no very modern building, so by reason of its misplaced carvings and inverted inscriptions it cannot be very antient; but may conveniently be refered to those times, in which Christianity began to flourish here. And after this there will be room to put in another conjecture, and to guess from the stateliness of the fabric, that it might be the place, where that famous general council of almost two hundred bishops condemned the heresy of _Nestorius_, in the year four hundred thirty one; tho his errors are still living among the Indians and Chaldeans, two sects which are numerous in the eastern parts of _Asia_[46]. Those other Christian monuments, which are commonly shewn at _Ephesus_, are merely fabulous; and serve only to cheat and abuse the curiosity of many travelers, who undergo no little pains and difficulty in coming hither. Such are the _cave of the seven sleepers_; the _font_, in which _St. John_ is said to have baptized so many primitive Christians; and a square watch tower, which ordinarily goes by the name of _St. Paul’s prison_. This last stands upon a small hill, about a mile nearer the sea, than was the _temple of Diana_; and is indeed worth visiting by those, who have not so much superstition or credulity; for its situation gives a commanding prospect over the stream of the _Caýster_, which here seems to rival the _Maeander_, and plays with many wanton windings in the adjoining plain.

The chief heathen antiquities, that are to be seen at _Ephesus_, are the remainder of the _old citadel_, and the foundation of the _temple of Diana_. The former of these is an intire gate, with two broken walls adjoining on each side, which being situated on a convenient ascent, towards the north east of the ancient city, most probably was a sort or citadel, that defended it on that quarter. This gatehouse has the marks of considerable antiquity, tho it has been rebuilt from other more antient ruins; as is evident from some misplaced stones, and broken reversed inscriptions, that occur in the work. Among these are viewed with great satisfaction three flat marble stones, curiously cut in _basso relievo_; which tho of different design, and unequal breadth, are placed in a line to adorn the arch of the gate.

The first of these marbles (reckoning from the left hand as we front the gate) has been somewhat injured by time; but from the portraiture of grapes and baskets, and four or five figures in gay and youthful postures, it may be presumed to represent a _Bacchanal_.

The second marble is a military piece, consisting of many intire figures, all cut in postures very bold and masterly, and such as undoubtedly are the work of some noble hand. It designs a warlike horse surprized by an enemy, with his rider lying at his feet; near which several persons are carried captive by Roman soldiers. The chieftain stands by, and is supplicated by a woman in a large loose mantle, whose intercession seems to intercept the action. This has been by some refered to the _destruction of Troy_, and by others to a Christian persecution; but with greater probability it may be thought to represent the event of some Roman victory.

The third marble is a sepulchral monument, and represents a dead person extended, from his knees upwards, on a funeral bed; the chief mourner sitting, and five other persons standing in a melancholy posture, and lamenting over him. These likewise are very lively figures, and cut with an inimitable perfection.

Of the _temple of Diana_ there are extant no considerable ruins, nor any thing that is lofty and beautiful enough to bespeak it the remains of that famous structure. But in a marshy ground, near the _Lacus Selenusius_[47], betwixt the haven _Panórmus_[48] and the place of the antient city, there stand two broken pieces of a massy wall, in which both the present tradition, and accounts of antient geographers, exactly conspire to prove them the small reliques of the temple. As they themselves consist of square hewn stone, so they are surrounded with heaps of the same materials, among which occur some lofty dejected pillars of beautiful and splendid marble. Under the highest of these ruinous walls there descends an artificial passage, which after two or three short turnings proceeds in a straight line thro many narrow rooms and alleys. This, tho dark and noisome, is customarily visited by travelers, with the assistance of a candle and clue of thread; and is called, by we know not what fancy, the _labyrinth of Diana’s temple_. But as we observed the like under several large structures, some at _Sardis_, and others at this very place; so it is notorious, that this is but the ordinary method of strengthening any great foundation, and securing the building by subterraneous arches. Returning from this cavity the traveler has nothing else in view, but venerable heaps of rubbish, and uncertain traces of foundations; and must be forced to supply his curiosity with considering, that this was the place, where once stood and flourished that renowned wonder of the world.

The first temple had been burnt on the same night, in which _Alexander the Great_ was born; and this second was then rebuilding, when that prince was residing at _Ephesus_, and pursuing his conquests in _Asia Minor_. He contributed sumptuously to the expence, and afterwards proposed to reimburse the whole, if the Ephesians would consent to inscribe his name upon the fabric[49]. But those citizens had an ambition equal to that of Alexander, and therefore diverted his desires by a fulsom compliment, and the dedication of a famous picture; which was Alexander himself armed with thunder, designed by the inimitable Apelles, and valued at twenty talents of gold[50]. _Pliny_ has likewise told us, that this temple was adorned with an hundred and twenty seven pillars, each sixty feet high, thirty six of which were carved, and that by the celebrated hand of _Scopas_. The whole structure was four hundred and twenty five feet in length, and two hundred and twenty feet in breadth; and was founded in this watry ground, out of a vain hope to secure it by that means against time and earthquakes.

These are the most remarkable curiosities either of Turkish, Christian, or Heathen antiquity, which in the space of this afternoon we observed at _Ephesus_. Besides which we viewed many intire pillars of an aqueduct, that passes over the plain from the southern hills; as also in two places the uncertain footsteps of a theatre; and without the new castle a full face[51], with two serpents (cut on a stone) whose heads meet over it, and their bodies descend on each side. This monument is supposed to represent _Diana_, in the two characters of _Luna_ and _Proserpine_. But it is to be wished, that some curious traveler might remain two or three days at _Ephesus_; during which time by removing the weeds, and clearing the confused ruins, he might possibly discover many valuable inscriptions; as by the benefit of a ladder he might take one or two from the wall above mentioned under the Christian ruins, which to our great dissatisfaction we found not legible from the ground.

Among the few imperfect inscriptions discoverable in so short a stay, the name of P. VEDIVS ABOSCANTVS, with mention of his wife and daughter, is once or twice repeated both in Greek and Latin. And ΑΤΤΙΚΟΝ ΗΡΩΔΗΝ, or the name of that ingenious Roman, whose part is so entertaining in the _Noctes Atticae_ of _Gellius_, is preserved on a fragment among the pillars of the aqueduct. In the same place is frequent mention of _M. Antoninus_, once particularly on occasion of an honour done by the city to his daughter _Fadilla_.

ΦΑΔΙΛΛΑΝ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ Μ. ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΥ ΑΝΤΩΝΕΙΝΟΥ ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ[52]

This distich likewise on the castle gate is remarkable for the word _Ptelea_, an old name of _Ephesus_, which occurs in it.

ΤΟΥΤΟΝ ΟΝ ΕΙΣΟΡΑΑΣ ΤΥΠΟΝ ΟΡΘΙΟΝ ΑΝΤΩΝΙΝΟΥ ΔΩΡΟΘΕΟΣ ΠΤΕΛΕΗ ΘΗΚΑΤΟ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΜΕΝΟΝ

An invaluable inscription this, if the thing, to which it relates, had been found with it; for it seems to imply the hiding of a medal under the stone, which bore the inscription, that so, when time should destroy the building, the emperor’s face might be communicated to posterity.

Our way did not lead us by the aqueduct six miles from the city, in which is to be seen that large Latin and Greek inscription, printed in Sir George Wheler’s _Travels_[53]. Nor did we find those imperfect lines, which he took from a stone half buried in the ground[54]. But there is this perfect inscription on a stone near the gate of the old citadel, with which we shall here finish our account of _Ephesus_.

Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΤΕΙΜΗΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΝ ΑΙΛΙΟΝ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΝ ΑΠΟΛΛΟΔΩΡΟΝ ΑΣΠΕΝΔΙΟΝ ΦΙΛΟΛΟΓΟΝ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΜΝΗ- ΜΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΣ ΑΙΛΙΟΣ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΣ ΖΩΙΛΟΣ Ο ΑΔΕΛΦΟΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΖΗ

May ii.

It was a rainy and tempestuous morning, when, as we lay yet a sleep in the public _kane_, a terrible clap of thunder discharged itself seemingly in the very room. The vehemence of the noise awakened us in great astonishment; and our eyes were no sooner opened, but the whole place seemed to be filled with a red blaze of fire. Each person was first solicitous for the safety of his companions, and afterwards for that of the horses, which were dispersed in their stations about the door. But finding that we had received no detriment, either in our goods or persons, we blessed God for our deliverance; and concluded by an infallible argument, that the displosion must needs be extremely near us, in that the light continued for some time after the sound.

We mount by six a clock, and now determine our return to _Smyrna_; to which there lies a straight tho difficult and craggy road, over the top of the _Alymán_; upon which account we thought it preferable to take the way of the plains. This first led us over the bridge of the _Caýster_, and then quickly after round the abrupt precipice of the _Alymán_, and that old castle upon its edge, which we had before so much in view, as we rode from _Tyria_. From hence we pass thro a variety of low woods and pastures, which in themselves were pleasant and diverting; tho the fountains being all dry about this quarter, we were much distressed for want of water. About four hours and a quarter from _Ephesus_ we descry on our left hand, on the rising of the hill, the deplorable remainder of the castle of _Metropolis_; and at the foot thereof such apparent traces of foundations, with variety of hewn marble, as permitted us no longer to doubt concerning the place of that waste city. And it may be added, that computing our way by hours, as _Strabo_ does by furlongs[55], we did not greatly differ from his account, who places it at little more than a third part of the distance betwixt _Ephesus_ and _Smyrna_. Not far from hence we begin to approach a small, tho not shallow river, runing on our right hand, which probably is the _Phyrites_ of _Pliny_[56] mingling, as he describes it, with the _Caýster_, not far from the _Stagnum Pegasaeum_, or that lake, which we before observed in our way from _Tyria_ to _Ephesus_. Beyond this river we saw a large extended pasture, overspread with the flocks, herds, and tents of _Turcmen_. They had here pitched their station to the number of fourteen hundred; for as we staid to taste their milk, and to view their habitations, they themselves gave us this account, reckoning about two hundred tents, and seven persons more or less appertaining to each. As the whole race of the Turks were nothing else but a numerous colony, that swarmed from _Scythia_; so these _Turcmen_ seem to be the peculiar descendants of the _Nomades Scythae_, or _Shepherd Scythians_, and like them make it their employment to breed and nurture cattle. To this end they never assemble in towns, or betake themselves to houses; but flit from place to place, as the season of the year directs, and seize without control the vast neglected pastures of this desert empire.

In two hours and three quarters from _Metropolis_ we arrive at _Trianta_, a small but pleasant village, seated on a dry soil, and enjoying a very healthful air; where we proposed to _conáck_ this evening. An _agá_ here hospitably accommodated us with the convenience of his country house, and likewise treated us with a small collation after the Turkish fashion.

May iii.

By seven a clock we leave _Trianta_, crossing a little river within the limits of the village, and at an hour’s distance another of the same bigness; one or both of which, as they unite in the bottom of the plain, must be the antient _Halésus_, that ran into the sea at _Colophon_. We continue in a large and beaten road, leaving _Giamóbashy_ on our left hand, till having _Sedícui_ now in view, we cross over a watry bottom to shorten our way thither. Here we arrive about ten a clock, and stop to refresh ourselves in the consul’s country house; where after a long disuse of chairs, which are not the fashion of the Turks, we once more had the pleasure of sitting down to diner.

Having mounted soon after three, the worshipful consul Raye, with several gentlemen of our nation, did us the honour to meet us about two miles distance from the village. On these therefore we waited home the remainder of our way, and so returned before six a clock in good health to _Smyrna_; having been much obliged to Mr. Whalley for his care and conduct, as well as mutually to one another for that chearful and unanimous temper, which sweetened all our travels, and deceived the several fatigues of this laborious journey.

An Account of a voyage from _Smyrna_ to _Constantinople_, and a journey back from thence to _Smyrna_, in the year MDCCI.

March xxvi.

This day I took my passage for _Constantinople_ on board the _King William_ galley, captain Nehemiah Winter commander, and accordingly went on board at six a clock in the evening; being favoured with the company of Mr. Dunster, Mr. Turner, and Mr. Clotterbooke, who after a short repast returned a shore. On the same ship imbarked for _Constantinople_ the _barút agá_ of _Smyrna_, with his _harém_, and a numerous family.

March xxvii.

We set sail this morning with a gentle gale, which served us as far as _St. George’s_ island, that lies before the harbour of _Fochia Vecchia_, that is _Phocaea_; betwixt which and the sand head, occasioned by the discharge of the river _Hermus_, we came to an anchor at the approach of the evening.

March xxviii.

We set sail early this morning with little or no wind, the whole day continuing calm till towards the evening; when the gale began to grow fresh, and favouring us all night advanced us betwixt the main land of _Aeolia_ and the island of _Mitylene_, or _Lesbos_, leaving the bay of _Cuma_, now called _Sotaléa_, upon our right hand.

March xxix.

This morning with a contrary and very gentle gale we turn betwixt the island and the main, having a fair view of the harbour, city, and castle of _Mitylene_[57]; the last of which seems to be large and well walled, declining with a moderate descent on the side of a gentle hill. The same coast of the island is stored with many pleasant and considerable villages, well furnished with arable and pasture ground, and large woods at a distance, said to abound with deer. This day we advanced no farther than the isles of _Musconisia_, formerly _Arginusae_[58], situated betwixt the continent of _Aeolia_ and the island of _Mitylene_. Here therefore we came to anchor about midday, lying opposite to the mouth of the _Idaean_ or _Adramyttian_ gulph, made by the two promontories of _Cana_ on one side, and _Lecton_ on the other, and fenced towards the continent of _Troas_ (for so that whole region may be called) with the snowy and aspiring top of mount _Ida_.

March xxx.

This morning the wind springing fair about four a clock, we advance betwixt the island of _Mitylene_ and the main of _Aeolia_, the narrowed _bogáz_ is made by cape _Siguri_, antiently _Sigrium_, on the island side, and cape _Babá_, formerly _Lecton_, on that of the main. Near midday we begin to turn this latter cape, and thereby to gain the sight of _Imbros_ and _Tenedos_; _Lemnos_ not discovering itself till some hours afterwards, as we advanced with calm weather betwixt _Tenedos_ and the _Trojan_ shore; when the low land of _Lemnos_, with the round and exalted top of _Athos_ on the other side of it, gave us a delightful prospect.

March xxxi.

This day turning to windward, we advance by nine a clock between the town of _Tenedos_ and the _Trojan_ shore, the narrow distance of about six or seven miles allowing us a distinct prospect of each. _Tenedos_ is a middle sized compact town, fortified with a castle, seated immediately on the shore, and fenced toward the land with a round hill; but exposed to the sea without the advantage of any deep gulph, or commodious harbour. The whole island is green and level, and has the appearance, as well as reputation, of a rich and fertile soil. The wind not favouring us from hence, we proceed slowly the whole day with calm and serene weather; and turning betwixt _Tenedos_ and the _Phrygian_ continent, after enjoying the delightful sight of the _Trojan_ campain on one side, and of _Tenedos_, _Imbros_, and _Samothracia_ on the other, we anchored about six in the evening under the celebrated promontory of _Sigéum_.

April i.

Early in the morning we endeavour to make sail from _Sigéum_, but being taken in a dead calm, we were employed the whole day in warping, that so passing the mouth of the _Hellespont_ we might lie (if occasion should so require) sheltered by the new castle, and the point on which it stands. Having with great fatigue made two or three warps, the wind at length favoured us so far, as to advance us two leagues within the said new castle of _Natolia_, when the captain thought it better to anchor, than to proceed in so narrow a chanel and so dark a night.

At this place it will be most proper to set down my thoughts of _Troy_, and the whole _Trojan_ shore, which for the space of three days I viewed at a convenient distance in calm and serene weather from the poop of the ship, feeding my eyes and mind with an eager and boundless curiosity. That, which in a large sense was called of old by _Strabo_, as at present by the modern Greeks, the campain of _Troas_, begins at the promontory of _Lecton_, and then fronting the isle of _Tenedos_ ends in a delicious green and level country, as far as the strait of the _Hellespont_. But from the begining of this strait we sail by the main of that, which is properly to be called the campain of _Troy_. And because our modern travelers give a wild and indistinct account of this famous place, I shall endeavour to describe the bounds, and situation of it, in as clear and distinct terms as possible.

From cape _Sigéum_ (whence antiently was computed the entrance of the _Hellespont_) you sail about five miles, till you come opposite to the mouth of the _Scamander_; and from thence about two miles farther to a small prominence of land, by the antients called _Rhoetéum_. Betwixt this _Rhoetéum_ and _Sigéum_, the marine, which bent in an even uninterrupted semicircle, afforded a commodious station for the Grecian fleet[59]. But as _Strabo_ well observes, that in his time the _Scamander_ began to interrupt this station, by the sand it discharges on the shore; so it has since gained more considerably on the sea, and formed that whole tongue of land, on which is now built the new castle of _Natolia_. However in the days of _Priam_ the shore was undoubtedly more regular, as well as more retired. And opposite thereto in the adjoining continent, at such a distance as would admit the engagements, the flights, the pursuits, and the encampments of each army (as they are all described by _Homer_) we are to conceive of the walls and buildings of antient _Troy_. But still we must be cautious of pointing out, and distinguishing the very place; since in the reign of _Tiberius Caesar_ we are assured by _Strabo_, that there remained not the least footstep of antient _Troy_ to satisfy the curiosity of the most searching traveler[60]. So vain are the accounts of our modern _journalists_, who pretend to have seen the walls, the gates, or other ruins of _Troy_; that, which now remains, being nothing but the rubbish of new _Ilium_, or of that city once attempted there by _Constantine_.

April ii.

We endeavour this morning to continue our voyage, but make no considerable progress; because the gentle gale, that favoured us, could not prevail against the current of the _Hellespont_, which perpetually flows with a full and rapid course into the _Aegéan_ sea. We therefore drive back, and content ourselves with coming to an anchor in the same place, from whence we weighed this morning; taking the opportunity of going to dine on the Asian shore. After midday a fresher wind advanced us within a small distance from the old castles; where it again deserted us, and obliged us to drop anchor a second time, to maintain the way we had gained in opposition to the violent stream of this chanel.

April iii.