Part 17

I now return again to _Amsterdam_, by the way of _Gouda_, in company with Mr. _Vandeput_. Here we stop to observe the excellent painted glass in the several windows of that church; and then proceeding in our passage by the _treck schuyt_ arrive at _Amsterdam_ by six a clock next morning, and after diner make a visit to Dr. _Cockburn_. The next day we are introduced by the Doctor to see Mr. _De Wild’s_ cabinet, richly furnished with coins, gems, sculptures, and statues. Among the rest of his curiosities he has an excellent piece, representing the _Massacre_ of the _De Witts_, a good brass _Otho_, and a fine _Venus Anadyomene_. The day following the Doctor procured for us the like favour from Mr. _Vincent_, whose cabinet consists of a very numerous and well disposed collection of animals and shells.

April xxii.

Mr. _Cockburn_, son of the Doctor, Mr. _Vandeput_, and I, divert ourselves, by making a short excursion to _Sardam_, in _North Holland_, remarkable for the great number of windmills that surround it, and the large quantity of timber, which always lies there ready prepared for building of ships. We return in the evening to _Amsterdam_; and the next day I purchase of _Mynhéer Visscher_ a set of _Geographical Charts_, both _Old_ and _New_; and then visit _Mynhéer Uilenbroek_, a curious gentleman, possessed of a very large and well chosen library, as also a cabinet of coins and other rarities.

April xxiv.

I depart for _Harlem_, and there visit the learned _Antony Van Dale_, by profession a physician, in opinion an anabaptist. He entertained me very obligingly with a sight of the neat gardens, costly tulips, and other amusements of that place. In discoursing with him on divers subjects of learning, he seemed in some things over sceptical, questioning particularly the authority of the _Apocalypse_. I go the same night to _Leyden_, and from thence the next day to _Rotterdam_.

April xxviii.

Returning again to _Harlem_, Mr. _Van Dale_ carries me to visit _Mynhéer Koolaert_, a merchant, and father of a beautiful daughter, named _Hester_, about seventeen years of age, born deaf and consequently dumb; but taught to speak (tho not very articulately) by one Dr. _Amman_, who has published a book upon that art, of which the young lady gave me a copy in _Dutch_, and her father another in _Latin_. She asked me after Mr. _Rombouts_ of _Constantinople_; and I answering he is dead, she discerned what I said by the motion of my lips. By the same means she can discourse at large with her mother even in the dark, by feeling her lips when speaking. She writes well, and paints curiously. And her mother is an excellent Latinist. The same day Mr. _Van Dale_ shewed me a specimen of the first printing, kept in the town house of this place; and in the market place the inscription, asserting that invention to _Harlem_:

MEMORIAE SACRVM TYPOGRAPHICA ARS ARTIVM OMNIVM CONSERVATRIX HIC PRIMVM INVENTA A L. COSTERO HARLEMENSI MCCCCXXIIX.

The next day I leave _Harlem_, and return to _Amsterdam_.

May i.

This morning, with Dr. _Cockburn_ and Mr. _Vandeput_, I visit the learned Mr. _le Clerc_. He shewed me the _Thesaurus linguae Latinae_ of _Rob. Stephanus_, improved by manuscript notes of the author’s own hand; as also _Irenaeus_, _Lib._ v. _cap._ 2. concerning the presence in the sacrament; and complained of Mr. _Grabe_, as misrepresenting the church of England in his notes. In the afternoon, in company with Mr. _Vandeput_, I review the cabinet of _Mynhéer Uilenbroek_; and by his leave copy the two following sepulchral inscriptions, one in Latin, and the other in Greek, the former of which is peculiarly remarkable for the corruption of the language.

D. M. S. NON. SVFECERAT. VNO. DOLORE. MISEROS. BIBERE. PARENTES. QVOD. IAM. VNAM. NATAM. OMISER ANT. ANTE. ECCE. NVNC. ET. ALIAM. SAEPELITAM. VNO. DOLOREM. QVOD. IAM. PROPE. NYPPTVM. MYSERAE. DEFVNCTAE. SVNT. AMBAE. SET. QVI. DOLOR. ABS. TE. NOBIS. HARMO NIA. RVFA. RELICTVM. EST. VT. ANNI S. XIII. M. VI. D. XXVI. NOBISCVM. AD VIXERIS. VNA. ET. NOS. OPTAMVS. AD. VOS. PROPERARE. PARENTES. EGO. PATER. HARMONIVS. JANVA RIVS. CVM. BESTA. MATREM. QVAE GEMVIT. VIBET. ET. DOLET. CLO DIA. TROPHIME. NEC. DVBITA MVR. ENIM. VITA. CARERE. MO ....

ΗΛΥΘΕΣ. ΟΥΚ. ΑΒΟΑΤΟΣ. ΕΝΙ. ΤΡΙΣΣΑΙΣ. ΔΕΚΑΔΕΣΣΙΝ. ΘΕΥΔΟΤΕ. ΤΑΝ. ΖΩΟΙΣ. ΟΙΜΑΝ. ΟΦΕΙΛΟΜΕΝΑΝ. ΚΑΙ. ΣΕ. ΤΟΝ. ΕΝ. ΣΠΟΝΔΑΙΣΙ. ΓΕΓΑΘΟΤΑ. ΠΟΥΛΥ. ΜΕΤ. ΑΣΤΩΝ. ΜΑΤΗΡ. ΑΙΑΖΕΙ. ΜΥΡΟΜΕΝΑ. ΠΡΥΤΑΝΙΝ. ΠΕΤΡΟΣ. Ο. ΔΕ. ΞΕΙΝΟΙΣΙ. ΒΟΑΣΕΤΑΙ. ΩΣ. ΑΙΔΑΛΟΣ. ΑΣΦΑΛΕΣ. ΑΝΘΡΩΠΟΙΣ. ΟΥΘΕΝ. ΕΝΕΙΜΕ. ΤΥΧΑ. ΕΙΗΣ. ΤΟΙ. ΣΥΜ. ΠΑΤΡΙ. ΚΕΧΑΡΜΕΝΟΣ. ΟΦΡΑΝ. ΕΣ. ΑΨΩ[143]. ΣΩΣΤΡΑΤΟΣ. ΕΝ. ΦΘΙΜΕΝΟΙΣ. ΜΥΡΙΟΝ. ΑΙΝΟΝ. ΕΧΗ.

May iii.

Mr. _Vandeput_, Dr. _Cockburn’s_ youngest son, and myself, hire a couple of chaises, and make a journey into _North Holland_. We pass _Monnikedam_, the _Beemster_, and so to _Alckmair_; where we observe the beautiful and clean streets, the stadthouse, the church, and noble picture there of the year 1504, the delightful woods, and artificial walks. We return that night, but not without being imposed on by the owner of our chaises.

May xi.

Having continued thus long at _Amsterdam_, enjoying the company of my good friends, and amusing my self with the variety of entertainments, which this place affords to strangers, I now depart for _Naerden_ in the _treck schuyt_ by the way of _Muyden_, whither I am kindly accompanied by Mr. _Le Jolle_. There I arrive by two a clock, and having viewed that complete and compact fortification, I depart at six in a post chaise for _Utrecht_, where I arrive by nine, and lodge without the gate. In the morning I repair to Mr. _Foley_, and am by him invited to lodge in his apartment. He carried me to visit _Holthenus_, a learned divine and minister of the place, who had then the care of the new edition of _Gruter_; and has a good collection of coins, among which was observable _Nerva_ of the largest size, the reverse a palm tree, with the legend FISCI IVDAICI CALVMNIA ABLATA.

May xiv.

Mr. _Foley_ and my self hire a traveling chaise and pair at _Utrecht_, with which we proceed to _Amerford_, and from thence to the King’s house at _Loo_, where we arrive by three a clock in the afternoon. And upon our return to _Utrecht_ the day following, I begin to think of _England_, and accordingly prepare my self for a voyage by the first convenient passage.

_To the Reverend Dr._ Thomas Turner.

Reverend Sir,

Your great goodness will excuse the tardiness of this letter, when I assure you, that I have been long ambitious of collecting any thing, that might deserve your notice; tho hitherto I have been successless in that desire. Many things indeed have occurred observable to me; but I could not hope at the same time, that they might appear such to you. For it is common with unexperienced travelers to be transported with pleasure and admiration, when their accounts are not able to raise the same affections in their freinds; either because they converse with men of better judgment, or because the most valuable relations must needs be heard with a greater coldness, than the things were seen. But notwithstanding these discouragements, I have lately looked back upon my _Journal_, to see if any thing might there appear remarkable at this distance; and tho a short voyage by sea must be barren of all real curiosity, yet for the subject of this letter I shall now trouble you with some of the things, which I observed at _Cadiz_, _Messina_, and _Milo_, the three only places, where we touched in our passage hither.

In _Cadiz_, as in most other parts of the Spanish dominions, there is nothing very curious, but in their churches or convents; and this, when once seen, is to be deplored, rather than admired. For when you first come into the town, you are not so much struck with a face of religion, as with the notion of a certain politic game, where the priests are soon discovered to be the only winners. Since in the whole place there is nothing fat and well favoured, but the clergy. The rest of the inhabitants appear meagre, wan, and melancholy, being mostly employed either in repairing to mass, or returning from it; sometimes counting their beads, and at other times perhaps lugging an heavy Saint in their arms. And therefore, were they not supported under this condition by a certain natural pride, which is fed partly with the real history of their former state, and partly with a romantic imagination of their present grandeur; they would soon become so sensible of their slavish poverty and superstition, as either to break their own hearts, or that yoke, which oppresses them.

There are several religious houses in this city, one of Franciscans, another of Dominicans, a third of Augustins, and a fourth of Capuchins; besides some nunneries, and a fifth convent called the _Mercy_, being founded for the redemption of Christian slaves. There is likewise an hospital, named the _Hospital of St. John of God_; where we saw a large and decent infirmary for sick and wounded persons, whether natives or foreigners. There is nothing much remarkable in these places, besides the altar pieces of their chapels, which are every where gaudily and richly furnished; but those particularly of the cathedral church, and Dominican convent, are adorned with tables of wrought and massy silver. On the walls is seen abundance of painting and imagery, the device of which is for the most part offensive, or ridiculous. An instance of the latter was the picture of _St. Michael_, with a pair of scales in his hand, weighing the merits of departed saints: of the former, the pourtraiture of _God the Father_, in the shape of an _old man_; with many other blasphemous representations of the _Trinity_. Either in their vestries, or their chapels, there is commonly the _Saint_ of their order pourtrayed at large, in a gaudy habit, and inclosed in a case of glass. Other lesser images of Saints they expose in holes of the wall, where it faces the town; and to these the devouter part of the people pay their several occasional oraisons, as they pass the streets. This large multitude of altars and saints, which every where appears at _Cadiz_, could not but remind me of what the priestess in _Petronius_ sais: _Utique nostra regio tam praesentibus plena est numinibus, ut facilius possis deum, quam hominem invenire_[144]. But not to tire your patience with the many odd pieces of superstition, which occur in every corner of the city, I shall give you a relish of the whole in the two following instances.

The first of these is a specious inscription over the entrance to a private house, occasion by the following accident. In a late solemn procession upon _Corpus Christi_ day there happened a storm of rain, which was in danger of offering some disrespect to the host; and therefore they thought convenient to give it shelter in the next house, they could step into. Among these zealous people this was construed such a blessing to the man and his family, that the house is ever since looked upon as sacred; and the owner has been at a considerable charge to erect a pair of marble pillars at the entrance into his porch, adorned with carving, and inscribed after this magnificent manner: “That in the year 1692, _Innocent_ XII being Pope, _Charles_ II King of Spain, _Buzzia_ Bishop of Cadiz, and _Don Velasco_ governor of the same Herculean city.” _Cum arca vera, panem angelicum carnem factum continens, triumphali processionis pompa, die festo_ Dominici Corporis _deduceretur, et, saeviente turbine, irreverentiae periculum immineret; harum aedium dominus_, Didacus de Barias, _exivit obviam absconditae majestati, et fidei Centurionis aemulus procidit, indignum se profitens, cujus tectum_ Dominus _subiret, eumque honorifice in oratorio suo suscipere meruit. Quare, Deo favente, sacra catholica majestas cooperari volens domui huic praeeminentiae praerogativam concessit, etc._ This accident has rendred _Didacus de Barias_ a meer Saint, and his house a most inviolable sanctuary, in the esteem of the poor Spaniards. Tho our English merchants well know him to be a rank Jew, who being therefore liable to death by the law of Spain, was always forced to live under disguise, and now gladly embraced this opportunity of passing for a zealot. The Jews indeed have formerly been very insolent in Spain. One of the last instances of which was a certain indignity of a shoemaker, who buried a crucifix under the place, where his customers tried on their shoes, that by this stratagem he might oblige Christians to stamp upon the cross. But this nation being since banished that kingdom under the pain of the severest death, they, who still covertly remain so, are obliged to profess themselves of the popish faith, which they can do without any great regret; it being easy to be of two religions, where both consist only in external show and ceremonies.

The other memorable piece of superstition is to be observed in the convent of the Capuchin friery, who within these three years have acquired an extraordinary esteem, by means of a certain lady, who acknowledged herself cured of a dangerous malady by virtue of their intercession. This was an hint, which they thought very improvable; and have therefore since set up for such a stock of merit, that their cloister is already filled with waxen figures of legs, arms, heads, women’s breasts, and other offerings, of so many maimed and distempered persons, whom these Saints have restored by their peculiar interest in heaven. One particularly, who was indebted to them for a more than ordinary blessing, has erected a stately monument on that account, before the entrance into their convent. It is an handsome Ionic pillar, made of white marble, inrailed with a large square of stone, in the front of which is a crucifix, and an image of the _Virgin_, under the title of the _Triumphant Lady_. And this new figure is already become such an idol, that the zealous gossips of the town will often approach it upon their knees, at near the distance of a furlong.

Having been detained about a week at _Cadiz_, we set sail October 11, 1699, and by the favour of a fortunate west wind were advanced within nine days near the entrance of the _Faro_ of _Messina_; where we lay becalmed two or three days, under the island of _Stromboli_, as after our departure from _Messina_ we did likewise under mount _Aetna_. Each of these was an opportunity of entertaining our sight with the dreadful curiosity of those burning mountains; where we observed the _crater_ of both to cast up a continued pillar of smoke, and at repeated distances a terrible red blaze of fire. Afterwards being favoured with a gentle gale, a pilot came from the city to steer us thro the difficult strait of _Scylla_ and _Charybdis_. Here I was curious to observe the situation of these places, especially because the latter is used in a confused and uncertain sense in classic authors. But upon a diligent view of the place it self, and a companion of some clear expressions in antiquity, the best judgment I could form of it was this, which follows. In _Thucydides_[145], and other good historians, _Charybdis_ signifies the whole strait betwixt _Sicily_ and _Calabria_; but in _Homer_[146], _Virgil_[147], and other poets, it is restrained to that peculiar whirlpool, which flows under the opposite rock of _Scylla_. Betwixt these two we found the current so various, that our ship was obliged to stand five or six different ways in a few minutes sailing; and at the same time it was surprizing to hear the waves bubble in a continued hideous noise, well expressed in the poets by the barking of dogs round the bowels of _Scylla_.

As we lay at anchor at _Messina_, we were presented with a delightful landskip, which the narrow winding of the _Faro_, the verdure of the opposite shores, the wall, the citadel, and town itself afforded. The front of the whole city is one continued pile of buildings, extending three quarters of a mile in length, from the Viceroy’s house to that called the _French bastion_. It intirely consists of free stone, being raised four story high, adorned with carved windows, balconies, battlements, and other ornaments, all answering to each other with an exact regularity. No house has any doors to the sea, but the entrance is at large gates, which front so many streets of the city, placed at equal distances, and each of them inscribed with some religious device. This range is contrived, as for ornament, so likewise for defence; it being at the bottom of a prodigious thickness, so as to withstand a siege, and decreasing proportionably towards the top. The whole running in a bend, which is every where equidistant from the sea, represents a curvilineal amphitheatre. The inner part of the city does not answer to this magnificence of the front; tho there often occur many single pieces of great art and curiosity. Such as the _King’s statue_ on horseback, exactly resembling that of our late King _Charles_ at _Windsor_. The _Statue_ of _Don John of Austria_, in memory of the victory obtained by him at _Lepanto_ in 1571. The beautiful structure of a public _fountain_, adorned at the bottom with four large and masterly figures, representing _Nilus_, _Iberus_, _Tiber_, and _Euripus_. But more curious than the rest is a figure of _Neptune_ on the mole, cast in solid brass, and attended on each side with two very natural representations of the monsters _Scylla_ and _Charybdis_.

But it was not so entertaining to observe these, as deplorable to see, what St. _Paul_ bewailed at _Athens_, a city wholly given to idolatry and superstition. It affords a melancholy consideration to any serious spectator, to be witness to so many vain and hypocritical addresses made to the images and altars, which abound in this deluded place. For this brings the like scandal upon Christianity, as was so offensive under the ranked heathenism, and too truly exposes the subjects of it to that derision of _Lucretius_:

_Nec pietas ulla est velatum saepe videri_ _Vertier ad lapidem, et quascunque accedere ad aras_[148].

They are here furnished with nunneries and monasteries to the number of sixty odd, most of which are loftily built, and add the greatest grace to the structure of the city. In the college of _St. Nicholas_ I observed the pictures of our five _Jesuits_, who were executed for the popish plot, with a specious account when, and how, they were crowned with martyrdom for the profession of the faith in _England_. In the nunnery of _Sta. Maria della Scala_ they shew a stone sculpture of the _Virgin_ and our _Savior_, which they verily beleive to have been taken from the life. In the cathedral church there are twelve noble figures of the _Apostles_, exquisitely carved in clear and costly marble. The isle, which composes the body of the church, is ranged on each side with thirteen stately pillars, twelve of which are antient of the Corinthian order, brought formerly from a temple of _Neptune_, that stood near the promontory _Pelórus_. There are here three gaudy altars, that want nothing, which art or expence could contribute to adorn them; for below they are set with work of _lapis lazuli_, and above are covered with cupolas of true mosaic. But over the high altar, at the east end of the cathedral, is preserved in golden characters, and embellished with a rich variety of other ornaments, one of the greatest delusions in all popery. It is a letter, which according to the tradition of this church was sent to the _Messanians_ by the _B. Virgin_, upon their conversion by St. _Paul_, soon after he touched at _Rhegium_. It is reasonably concise, and therefore I shall venture to trouble you with the words, as faithfully transcribed.

_Maria Virgo, Joachim filia, Dei humillima, Christi Iesu crucifixi mater, ex tribu Juda, stirpe David, Messanensibus omnibus salutem, et Dei Patris Omnipotentis benedictionem._

_VOS omnes fide magna legatos ac nuncios per publicum documentum ad nos misisse constat. Filium nostrum, Dei genitum, Deum et hominem esse fatemini, et in caelum post suam resurrectionem ascendisse_, Pauli _Apostoli electi praedicatione mediante, viam veritatis agnoscentes. Ob quod vos et ipsam civitatem benedicimus, cujus perpetuam protectricem nos esse volumus. Anno Filii nostri_ XLII. _Ind._ 1. 3 _nonas Junii_. _Luna_ XXVII. V. _Ex_ Hierosolymis.

Maria Virgo.

_Quae supra hoc chirographum approbavit._

You see, that he, who had the impudence to forge this imposture, had likewise the stupidity to date it by two _epochas_, the latter of which did not commence before the reign of _Constantine the Great_, and the former not till that of _Justinian_. The Hebrew original they confess not to be now extant. And as to this, which they call the authentic translation, it would be impossible to beleive them serious in venting so foul a cheat; but that they pompously expose it to all the world in their metropolitan church, and celebrate it by a yearly feast, and public rejoicings of a whole month’s continuance; that it has been confirmed by repeated indulgences from the court of _Rome_; and that at the west end of the church there are divers solemn inscriptions, importing, that in some general calamities of _Sicily_, there particularly specified, the _Virgin_ still protected her _Messina_, according to her most faithful promise in the _Holy Letter_. This naturally brings to one’s mind the antient devotion of the same place towards _Ceres_ and _Proserpina_, as mentioned by _Cicero_, when he says: _Vetus est haec opinio, quae constat ex antiquissimis Graecorum literis et monumentis, insulam Siciliam totam esse Cereri et Proserpinae consecratam. Hoc cum ceterae gentes sic arbitrantur; tum ipsis Siculis tam persuasum est, ut animis eorum insitum et innatum esse videatur_[149]. It is to be wondered at, that these people have not yet registered an accident, of which as to the fact our English merchants were eye witnesses, namely; that in the late repeated earthquakes of _Sicily_ in 1693 the tower of this cathedral, which stands at the west end distinct from the body of the church, was so distorted by one shock, that it stood very dangerously in an oblique declining posture; but that about a week afterwards another shock restored it to its former true perpendicular situation.