Part 16

The government of the city is by a free and sovereign jurisdiction of their own, which is lodged in three orders of men, the burgomasters, the senate, and the burgers. The burgomasters are four persons chosen out of the senate, of which two are yearly regent. The senate consists of about twenty, chosen as vacancies happen out of the burgers. The burgers compose the whole body of the citizens, ranked under their five distinct parishes. This government some what resembles that of antient _Rome_, by consuls, senate, and people; and is excellent in itself, but very liable to be perverted by the prevalency of any of the parts, of which it consists. This is at present seen in the case of _Hamburg_, where the burgers by reason of their multitude, and the seditious spirit of inferior persons, have so far usurped the power of the place, that they terrify the senate, and stop all public proceedings, which are not to their relish. Particularly they are now so obstinate, as to refuse their consent to the supply towards the war, required by the Emperor, and to other public levies of the city, till they can extort the consent of the senate for restoring one Dr. _Meyer_ to his pastoral office of _St James_. This is a violent seditious man, suspected of an ill life, but of a ready overbearing eloquence in the pulpit; who, about five years since had quitted his pastoral office in _Hamburg_, for another like charge, and superintendency in _Pomerania_. His parishioners now recall him to his cure at _Hamburg_, which he publicly declines; but privately encourages, and thereby occasions a lamentable faction and sedition in the town. His own and two other parishes press his return, and refuse to treat of other business, till the senate shall consent thereto. But they being duly cautious of admitting so dangerous a person into the city, who is now more particularly suspected of intriguing against them, in dependence on the King of Sweden, will never admit thereof; especially as he insists upon returning in his own rank, and in prospect of the same seniority, he before obtained in the place.

The burgomasters of this place never appear in public, but in a peculiar dress; which consists of an high crowned hat made of cloth, plated thick and strong in numerous folds; with a large ruff; and a black velvet coat ending at the knees, and plaited from the middle. There are likewise several other antient habits used by all public persons, even to midwives, dressers of the dead, and those who bear the corps to funerals. The habit of their divines is a round black cap, a ruff, and a gown without sleeves. All these may commonly be seen at once in the solemnity of a funeral, which they here affect to make very pompous for all persons, even those of little children. The burgomasters, senators, divines, lawyers, physicians, and as many of all sorts, as they can procure, attend the corps from the house to the church; for which they are each paid a certain fee, the chief about a florin, and inferiors proportionably. It is observable, that the bearers of the corps have a peculiar step, all moving their leg at the same time croswise from one side to the other.

This city wholly subsists by trade, which it still enjoys to a great degree. But they now complain, that they begin to be robbed of their former flourishing commerce by _Lubeck_ and _Bremen_, and even the poor town of _Altena_, which with regret they see rising under their walls. Here is the staple of linen from Germany; cloth from England; and wines from Spain, France, and the Rhine. Of this last the city preserves a vast stock in public cellars; the largest of which, being a magazine of _Rhenish_ wine, I visited one evening, and was there assured, that they have the wine of every year since 1623; and accordingly we then drank of three sorts, 1623, 1664, and 1678. At the same time I tried the perfect clearness of the loaf sugar of this place; which they purify to such a degree, that it does not discolour the cleared _Rhenish_ wine.

The English company, which upon the decay of _Antwerp_ removed to this place, is a regular, gentile, and hospitable society of merchants. They were here granted large privileges, which they still enjoy; tho at home our English parliament has lately infringed those, which they had permitted them. Their goods from England are imported free of custom, except that they pay a trifle as an acknowledgement. Their own jurisdiction, and religion, is freely granted them. The town first presented them with a large piece of building, which they obliged themselves to keep in perpetual repair. In this there is a public chapel; and an apartment, which they call the _Ordinary room_, where all the company, who are unmarried, dine and sup at one table, and the deputy governor and assistants meet upon public occasions. Adjoining to it is the house of the deputy governor, the minister, and the secretary; all likewise given by the town, and maintained by them. The governor of this company at present resides in England; but the other officers, as the deputy governor, secretary, and assistants, to the number of twenty four, are all resident upon the place, and dispatch all business relating to the society; which is contrary to the custom of the Turkey company, the governing part whereof always resides in England. The deputy governor and secretary are chosen, or confirmed, either quarterly or yearly; and the same is practised with the minister, whose salary, besides the benefit of an house, is two hundred pounds a year. The number of merchants, assistants, and others, may here amount from thirty to forty persons; and with their wives, children, and servants, their congregation (which is very regular) is seen on Sunday from an hundred and fifty to two hundred persons. My conversation during my stay at _Hamburg_ was chiefly among these; and I had more particularly the friendship of Mr. Free, deputy governor; Mr. Aldersey, secretary; Mr. Emerson, minister; Mr. Stratford, Manning, Lethieullier, and Remington merchants; and their respective families. I preached every Sunday, while I continued here; and received many tokens of favour from the whole company; particularly on the sixteenth of January, a present of a silver tankard, value forty crowns. At the same time I had the honour of being known to Mr. Wyat, her Majesty’s resident at this place, and deputed likewise to the _Hanse_ towns of _Bremen_ and _Lubeck_.

There is a good and well furnished library belonging to this city, which adjoins to the church of _St. John_. And during my stay here I had the opportunity of conversing with _Jo. Albertus Fabricius_, a person of great learning, and famous for some works he has already published. I visited likewise _Mynhéer Langerman_, a druggist, who shewed me some curious _ores_; and _pieces of eight_, fished up from a Spanish wreck; with the _piedra de puerco_, about the size of a large nutmeg, which is found in the bladder of some hogs in the _Philippine_ islands, a great sudorific, and esteemed a sovereign remedy against intermitting fevers. One stone is usually valued at a hundred ducats.

The night I visited the wine cellar at Mr. Manning’s house, we saw a man, named _George Po_, born at _Prague_, who eat raw flesh, glass, paper, and above all things raw flax and tow, which he devoured very greedily, and called it his chief delicacy. He likewise swallows large stones, and accustoms himself to devour all unnatural substances, even perukes; tho of this last he is now somewhat cautious, since his twin brother died by eating one at _Halberstadt_. A senator’s wife of this city maintains an opera house, where they have a prodigious large stage, and great variety of well painted scenes. Here Mr. Lethieullier one night entertained us to our great satisfaction. At the same place, and belonging to the same woman, is shewn the famous model of _Solomon’s Temple_, being the exact resemblance of that fabric, as described by the best authors, expressed in every part by carved wood work to the hight of an English yard, and all the inward apartments perfectly exhibited to the eye, as the workman takes it to pieces for the satisfaction of the spectators. This ingenious machine cost no less than ten thousand dollars.

The inhabitants of _Hamburg_ are censured as proud, formal, and ceremonious; the magistrates as addicted to vice, libertinism, and self interest; and the people as turbulent, and seditious; whence many prognosticate ill to the trade, and future power of the city. The language, which they here speak, is called the _Plat Dutch_, being a medium betwixt that of Germany and Holland.

During my stay here, I was informed of a detestable practice, frequent among many melancholy and disordered persons of this place; who being weary of life, and apprehensive of the sin of self murder, rather choose to murder some innocent child, and by that means to be brought to capital punishment, by which they attain their desire of death, with the advantage, as they imagine, of a previous time for repentance, without the guilt of their own hand. At the same time they esteem the child, whom they choose to sacrifice, to be without any guilt of conscience, as having not yet arrived to years of discretion[140]. This tragedy happens every year, as many experienced witnesses among our merchants assured me; and they attribute the frequency of the practice to the great facility of their confessors, in affording peace and fair promises to all sorts of dying penitents.

Another tragedy lately acted at _Hamburg_ was of a monstrous virago, born in the dukedom of _Zell_, who by an unnatural disposition of her uterine parts was capable of acting the part of a man; and accordingly she made it her practice in rambling from place to place to marry at each a young woman, several of whom she had murdered. With her last spouse, whom she had let into all her mysterious impiety, she murdered one of her former wives; as likewise a man, whom they had cajoled for sometime into their company, and whose head they afterwards boiled for venefical uses, as they pretended. But being caught and tortured, they confessed this black history of their life, and were executed here about a year since.

The campain about the neighbourhood of _Hamburg_ is green, and well distinguished with wood and shade; but at a farther distance, like other parts of _Lower Saxony_, it is a dull and unfruitful heath. The immediate circuit of the walls affords delicious walks, all kept in good repair, and adorned on each side with rows of trees, kept in a beautiful order. Sometime after we had received the account of the capture of the Spanish galleons at _Vigo_, happening to have a leisure hour, I amused myself in writing the following short poem upon that agreable subject.

_Erit altera, quae vehat Argo_ _Delectos heroas._ Virg. Ecl. iv. ℣. 34.

_Hactenus Argoos cecinisti, Graecia, nautas,_ _Et rudis aethereo pinus in axe micat;_ _Altera Britannas nunc implet Iberia puppes,_ _Terraque Phrixeam Cantabra mittit ovem._ _Alter es Aeëtes, Lodoix, vinctusque sopore_ _Aeterno serpens Gallica classis erit._ _Aesoniden, Ormonde, refers; et forte puella,_ _Quae tibi Medeam praestet, Ibera fuit._ _At quantum Argolicae praeluxerit Angla juventae,_ _Sit memor aeterno carmine fama loqui._ _Unica tunc unam decoravit praeda carinam;_ _Millia nunc referunt vellera mille rates._ _Anna, parens orbis, pretiosam carpere lanam_ _Incipe, et augusta fila novare manu;_ _Protinus optato flavescent saecla metallo,_ _Et fluet e fusis aurea vita tuis._

January xxviii.

Resolving at last to take leave of my good friends at _Hamburg_, _Mynhéer Platia_, with two other merchants, and myself, hire a post waggon for _Holland_. We set forward by seven a clock in the morning, and continue our way two German miles up the river, by the village of _Offensey_ to _Blankeness_; there we cross the _Elbe_, and proceed to a town called _Buxtchude_ in the dominion of _Sweden_, and by night arrive at a poor house in the wood called _Arnswoldt_. Here we drive in with our waggon, and alight at the same room, which was to receive us and our horses, and be at the same time our chamber and parlour, and the kitchin of our old landlady, who was smoked like a ham of bacon. We found her with her houshold, brooding over a fire hearth in the middle of this apartment, common to her self and cattle. Over which there was no chimney, but a wooden rack well stored with bacon, where the smoke was employed to prepare the provision of the year, without wasting itself at the funnel of a chimney. We are laid on a large heap of straw[141], whilst the cows are chewing the cud on each side, and lulling us to sleep. It was here I first saw the black bread of this country, called _bonpournickel_; and was told, that this with plenty of swines flesh, and the thick water of this flat country, were the only dainties of the place. However, it was our good fortune not to be reduced to that diet; for we fared well on our hamper, which we brought with us from _Hamburg_.

January xxix.

Leaving this disagreable place very early, we arrive at the gates of _Bremen_ late at night, and are therefore obliged to lodge in the suburbs, till we could enter the town the next morning. It is a large and fair city, free of the empire, and one of the most considerable _Hanse_ towns, seated on the _Weser_, or _Visurgis_. Here we baited at the wine cellar over against the Exchange, where there is a magazine of good _Rhenish_, inferior in nothing but the quantity of vessels, and largeness of the stock, to that of _Hamburg_. We then proceed by nine a clock (after I had visited Mr. Willet, an English merchant) and on the farther side of the town cross the river under a noble gate, which in an inscription calls this VETVSTISSIMVS VISVRGIS TRAIECTVS. The _Weser_ is here fair, wide, and almost straight, affording a reception for the vessels belonging to the town; but those of a greater burthen are obliged to remain some leagues lower. At this river we now leave _Lower Saxony_, and enter the circle of _Westphalia_. In an hour and a half we come to _Delmenhorst_, an old town and castle belonging to the King of _Denmark_. From thence we proceed to _Wildeshusen_, a town in the dominion of the Elector of _Hanover_, where we lodge.

January xxxi.

We go on this day to _Klopperburg_, a town of the _Lower Bishoprick_ of _Munster_; from whence in a little time we reach the banks of the _Hase_, and in a few hours more the town thence called _Haselun_, where we take up our lodging that night.

February i.

We had hitherto found _Westphalia_ a desolate and wild country, overrun with heath, except here and there adorned with small groves of stately oak, in the middle of which we commonly found a single farm house, enclosed with rude pales like a park, which in summer time must be truly pleasant. In several places by the road side are seen posts, with iron boxes on the top, for the receipt of charity, as if the land it self confessed its poverty. However in this day’s journey the appearance began to alter, for about ten a clock we arrived at _Lingen_, a pretty compact and well built town, which lately belonged to King _William_, but now to the King of _Prussia_. The neighbourhood is well stored with woods; the skirts of the town adorned with frequent gardens, and alleys of trees orderly planted; and the whole place by a show of riches and beauty confessing, as it were, the benefit of a moderate and protestant government.

Just beyond the limits of this town we cross the _Ems_, or _Amasia_, by a ferry boat, and afterwards continue our journey to _Northern_, the first town of the _United Provinces_, in the limits of which we now pass out of _Westphalia_ into _Overissel_. After a short bait we proceed to _Otmarsh_, and there lodge. This is the first place, since I left _Hamburg_, where I was offered a bed, having hitherto slept in my cloaths upon the straw.

February ii.

We now proceed by the way of _Almeloo_, and so to _Deventer_, over the plains, where his late Majesty delighted sometimes to hunt. These plains are covered with heath, and therefore afford not so good riding; but at the same time they are enclosed within long tracts of hills rising gently, which give the sportsman a convenient sight of the chase.

February iii.

We stop this day at _Deventer_, and put up at a public inn, where we dine with some Danish officers; and after diner I pay a visit to the learned _Gisbertus Cuperus_, who entertained me very obligingly, shewed me his library, coins, inscriptions, and other curiosities. In his library were several large volumes of letters, written by him in the name of the states, or on other public occasions. Among his coins was one with the title of IMP. VNICVS. And among his inscriptions this which follows:

MACSVSANO HERCVLI SACRVM FLAVIVS SVMMVS MAGISTRATVS

He seemed to think this was _Hercules_ of _Mackshusen_, a town not far distant from hence. I continue the following day at _Deventer_, and from thence write to my freinds at _Hamburg_.

February v.

From _Deventer_ I now proceed in three hours to _Loo_, where I was entertained for some hours in viewing the house and gardens of his late Majesty, and then go forward to a village called _Fortshausen_, where I take up my lodging. The next day I continue my journey to _Amersford_, where I dine, and by four a clock reach _Utrecht_.

February vii.

This and the two following days I remain at _Utrecht_, where I now first visit, and contract a very agreable acquaintance with Mr. _Paul Foley_, student of that university; who the day after obliged me with his company in a _treck schuyt_ to _Leyden_, where I view the physic garden, and adjoining galleries of natural rarities; the academy, anatomy theatre, great church, and other curiosities of the place. And the next morning I take the like passage for _Rotterdam_.

February xii.

This day I went to the _Hague_, where at length I again met his Excellency; having seen _Delft_ and _Ryswick_ in the way. At _Delft_ particularly I was entertained with a sight of the great church, and fine monument erected there in memory of _William_ the first, Prince of _Orange_. And the next day I continue to attend his Excellency at the _Hague_.

February xiv.

This day, being Sunday, I depart from the _Hague_, with his Excellency, Mr. Paget, and Mr. Foley, in a _treck schuyt_, by the way of _Leyden_, for _Amsterdam_; where we put up at the _Oude Heeren logement_. And staying here the two following days, after paying a visit to Mr. _Marcus_, I amuse myself with viewing the magazine of the admiralty, the stadthouse, and spinhouse; the hospital of boys and girls, with that of old women; the rasphouse, and other public buildings.

February xviii.

I return this day to _Leyden_, and there see Mr. _De la Faye_, brother of the English minister of that place; and with him visit _Jacobus Gronovius_, professor of eloquence and history, and at this time _rector magnificus_; from whom I receive a copy of _Mynhéer Cosson’s_ inscriptions, among which are some not published in the _Memoria Cossoniana_.

February xix.

We now leave _Leyden_, and go back to _Rotterdam_, where his Excellency is lodged at the _Doole_ for about eight days, and then removes to _Winestreet_. During this time I become acquainted with Mr. Richard Davis on the _Heering vliet_, the chief promoter of the new episcopal English church, now building at the upper end of that _vliet_. I observe whatever is remarkable here, particularly the statue of _Erasmus_, and the house of his birth; and likewise pay a visit to _Mons. Bayle_.

March vi.

I attend his Excellency to the _Hague_, and the next day, being Sunday, I go to _Rotterdam_, there preach to the episcopal congregation, and return to the _Hague_ that evening. The day following I walk from thence to the _House_ in the wood, which is a fine summer retirement, neatly built, and furnished with good painting, by _Frederic Henry_, Prince of _Orange_.

March x.

I depart with Dr. _Timeni_ for _Leyden_, where I now propose a long stay. And here I contract an acquaintance with Mr. _Neufville_, an ingenious and polite gentleman, master of a good library, and a curious collection of antiquities. With him also and Dr. _Timeni_ I visit several of the professors, as _Gronovius_, _Perizonius_, and _Triglandius_; and see likewise the library, and especially the manuscripts of this university. Among other curiosities in the _museum_ of Mr. _Neufville_, I observed the following inscriptions, cut in marble tablets.

CONSIMILES FRATRVM TRABEAS GESTAMINA HONORVM TERTIA QVAE DEERANT ADDIDIMVS TITVLIS.

This, which follows, is on a stone opposite to the former.

DILECTAE PROBVS HAEC PERSOLVO MVNERA MATRI RESTITVENS STATVIS PRAEMIA QVAE DEDERAT[142].

D. M. P. CAESIO EVTYCHETI FIL.B.M.Q.V.A.XXII.M.X.D.XXIV. H. III. FONTEIVS EVTYCHES ET LEPIDVS PARENTES D.

.... RIO CVRATORI VIAE .. ET ALIMENTORVM ..I PVBLICAE AECIANENSIVM .. RICVLANORVM .. OVINCIAE ASIAE .. ARIO O. K. FLAMINI

COS. AQVARVM ET M ......... ELECTO AD IVDICAND. SACR .. RECTORI ITALIAE REG. IR .... CVRATORI COLONIAR. SPL .... LVGDVNENSIVM CAL ......... CALENORVM XIIVIR ROM ....

This, which follows, was on a gemm.

ΔΡΑΚΩΝ ΘΕΑΓΕΝΟΥΣ ΑΛΚΙΜΟΣ ΤΟΞΟΤΗΣ ΑΘΗΝΑ.

On the opposite side was a bent bow, with a quiver and arrow, as likewise a serpent twining about the bow; and on the right side was ingraven the word ΑΝΤΙΨΙΛΟΥ.

March xvii.

I now desire my dismission from the family of his Excellency, and hire a lodging for myself. And such was his generosity, that two days afterwards he was pleased to send me the residue of my salary, with half as much more, as was then due, at the rate of eighty pounds a year.

March xxvi.

I see the curious work in cut paper by a woman at _Rotterdam_. And three days afterwards going to _Delft_, I visit Mr. _Leewenhoek_, and see his microscopes, with many curious discoveries upon insects, and other minute animals. The same day I pass to the _Hague_, to gratify my curiosity in viewing such things, as before had escaped my observation.

March xxx.

The wind setting fair for England, I hasten to _Rotterdam_, to take leave of his Excellency, who embarked at two a clock. Here I purchase a large number of books, and other necessaries, to a considerable value.

April ii.

I quit my lodgings at _Rotterdam_, and remove to the _Hague_. The day following I visit the church of _Launsdone_ where I found this inscription under two brass basins: _Margareta, Hermani Comitis Henebergae uxor, filia Gulielmi Caesaris, anno_ MCCLXXVI 365 _enixa est pueros etc. sicut in hac tabula ex vetustis tam manuscriptis, quam typis excusis, chronicis positum ac enarratum est_. The same afternoon I pass on to _Honstardyke_, where I see the _orangery_ four hundred and fifty yards long; the East India _buffalo_, male and female; the aviary, in which is a white peacock, the birds called _lepelaars_, and variety of foreign ducks and geese; the stable of foreign beasts, among which is the _mamót_ of East India (like a stag, but with twisted horns) and a _cassaware_; the gardens, in which are several beautiful statues, particularly one of a _gladiator_; the house consisting of one intire quadrangle within two good galleries, the Queen’s japan cabinet, and the King’s well furnished with curious paintings.

April xvii.