Part 15

The King of _Prussia_, as has been said, Sovereign of the place, opened an university here some years since, which at present flourishes with about a thousand students, and several professors of eminent note, among these are _Strychius_, _Thomasius_, and _Franckius_. The last is the person, who sent me formerly into Turkey several little tracts of his own composition, which had been translated into Latin and Italian, in order to be distributed here. I therefore visited him this evening, and discoursed with him upon his famous project of an ample charity; by which he maintains above six hundred children of both sexes, and that by no other fund, than collections gathered by his own industry. Three hundred of these, being boys, he has reduced to a college, which he now calls the _Orphanotrophium_. It is an handsome building, well contrived for the reception of so many poor orphans, for their diet, lodging, schooling, clothing, and afterwards their removal to some proper calling. He has here a printing house for the use of the society, and from thence have now been published several treatises, of which he presented me with two, concerning the _Jewish_ history, and the ecclesiastical government of _Bohemia_. The King of _Prussia_, who is thought the principal supporter of this great charity, has lately authorized the _Orphanotrophium_ under an ample patent, and allowed both the society, and the founder of it, several honourable and advantageous privileges. By this great undertaking Mr. _Franck_ proposes to lay a scheme and foundation for the reformation of manners, and better advancement of learning at the same time. But as he is one of the primary _Pietists_ in all Germany, the opposite party among the Lutherans in these parts, who in distinction call themselves the _Orthodox_, cease not to calumniate both him and his design. Tho how justly, God only knows. He delivered me a packet for Mr. _Ludolf_, and commissioned me to salute Dr. _Bray_, and Mr. _Woodward_ of _Stepney_, with whom he corresponds in relation to this intended reformation.

December xv.

From _Hall_ we now pass to _Koendern_, and by the way cross the _Sala_ in a ferry boat at _Alsleber_, leaving _Eisleben_, the birth place of _Luther_, a little on the right hand. The day following we continue our journey from _Koendern_ to _Aschersleben_, leaving _Paidleburg_ in sight on the left hand. And the next day we move forward to _Halberstadt_, palling from _Upper_ into _Lower Saxony_ in this day’s journey. _Halberstadt_ is a large town, subject to the King of _Prussia_, having about fourteen churches, which are pretty equally divided betwixt Protestants and Papists.

December xviii.

This day we leave _Halberstadt_ and proceed to _Hessen_, a small village belonging to _Rodolphus Augustus_, Duke of _Brunswick_; who has here an old moted house, with a pleasant garden, and a fountain of brass work, which for the variety of animals there artfully represented, and the device of the whole, deserves to be remarked. We continue here the two following days, and then set out for _Wolfembutel_, where we arrive at night, and lodge in the suburbs.

December xxii.

His Excellency departed this morning from _Wolfembutel_ with a design to go directly to _Hildesheim_; upon which I desire leave to take a different road, in order to see _Brunswick_, _Hanover_, and _Hamburg_. However I spent this day at _Wolfembutel_, in observing what was curious there.

The town is pleasantly seated on the river _Ocker_, in a place not so intirely level as the other parts of _Lower Saxony_, but enjoying a variety of rising and declining ground, with a convenient mixture of woods, which hitherto we observed to be intirely wanting from _Leipsick_ to this place. The city is compactly built, has fair and large streets, tho no very stately edifices, and is well fortified with a regular wall, and a double foss. It has two remarkable churches, one of which is the cathedral, an old Gothic building, adorned with a variety of sculpture and statues; and the other is a new church, lately erected by the present Duke of this place, in a peculiar form. It has an ascent at the front by a handsome staircase on two sides, and then opens into a perfect oval, which is supported by six stately pillars, and covered with a cupola. Directly facing the door is a piece of good work in sculpture, representing the _Virgin_, and other religious figures; and under this in a small orbicular desk, which appears as an ornament of the work, is seen the pulpit. Underneath is a table of wood, set so distinct from the wall, that it cannot properly be called an altar, and at each end are two high steps for the kneeling of the communicants. For the Lutherans, who in some places communicate standing, do the same in others kneeling; and the notion of an altar, with the posture of receiving, are in their opinion things indifferent. The castle of this place (which alone is properly _Wolfembutel_) is just without the wall of the city, and is the residence of the Duke. He has here an academy for the use of young gentlemen of all nations, where they are instructed in the arts of fencing, riding, dancing, and other exercises. But what is most remarkable, in the precincts of the castle is the celebrated library, founded by _Christianus Augustus_, the father of this Prince. It consists of two large and spatious galleries, ranged all round with books, and filled in the middle with a double row of desks, which in the inner gallery likewise contain shelves for books of lesser volumes. It was collected with great assiduity, and at a vast expence, by the said Prince; who himself employed his pains intirely in this design, and wrote the several catalogues digested in various orders, and consisting of eight volumes in _folio_, with his own hand. The present librarian is the famous Mr. _Leibnitz_, who at this time did not reside upon the place; but an assistant of his shewed the library, and observed to me the following curiosities. A collection of printed _Bibles_, the largest and most curious, which are any where to be found. A large manuscript _English Bible_ in _folio_, which seems very antient and begins thus: _In the erste made God of nought the hevens and the ery, and the ery forsooth was vein and veyd, and darknesses weren upon the face of the zee._ At the bottom of the first page is wrote _Lumley_ in later characters. A manuscript _Greek Testament_; and two printed copies, one of _Aldus_ and the other at _Hagenoa_, in which is wanting that famous testimony of _St. John_ concerning the three, that bear witness in heaven. An antient manuscript of _St. Jerome’s Bible_, written about four hundred years since, by one who subscribes himself _Abbas Gaufridus Vitulus_; and at the end of the same has delineated himself, with the head of a _calf_. A manuscript _Aethiopic Testament_, given by father _Kircher_ to the founder of the library. A copy of the _Psalms_, written in those characters, which are called _Ciceroniani_ and _Cyprianici_. A voluminous collection of modern _Histories_, in four hundred manuscript volumes in _folio_; among which are thirteen called _Chroniques d’Angleterre_. The whole number cost the Duke two thousand four hundred crowns; but it is thought, he purchased them much to dear. A fair turning desk with six leaves, like that before described in the Praemonstratensian library at _Prague_. A fair _Herbal_, with each flower delineated in its proper colours. A roll of the _Pentateuch_, and a vail now used by the Jews in reading the _Law_. Several reliques of _Luther_, as his spoon, drinking glass, leaden inkbottle, and a _Letter_ in his own hand to one of his contemporary bishops, in which he sends the salutes of his wife in these words: _Salutat te, Dominus meus, Ketha reverenter._ Two books written by Prince _Christian_ himself, founder of the library: one _De ludo scacchia_, in the German language; the other in _folio_, called _Cryptographia_, treating of cyphers and other secret devices, in the title of which he calls himself _Gustavus Selenus_, meaning _Augustus Luneburgicus_. A fair edition of the _vulgate Latin Bible_ by _Aldus_ at _Venice_, which reads in _Genesis_ iii. 15, _Ipsum conteret caput tuum_, instead of the usual _ipsa_.

The present Duke _Antonius Ulricus_, and his brother _Rudolphus Augustus_, who resides at _Brunswick_, have the title of _Brunswick_ and _Lunenburg_ in common with their eldest brother the Duke of _Zell_, and their nephew the Duke of _Hanover_. But their proper government is the territory of _Brunswick_ and _Wolfembutel_ which they govern by joint name and authority, both being equally sovereign in each. _Rudolphus_ is about seventy two years of age, plain and unaffected in his carriage, insomuch that sometimes he takes a private journey to _Hamburg_ where he walks the streets in the disguise of a country gentleman. But _Antonius_ is a more polite and accomplished prince, affecting the French behaviour and education; for which end he here maintains the academy above mentioned He is courtly, and condescending, and greatly beloved by his subjects. He is now about sixty three years of age, and has two sons; of which he, who shall live to be his heir, will jointly inherit the authority and dominions both of his father and uncle _Rudolphus_.

December xxiii.

This morning I take the post waggon for _Brunswick_, which is seated on the same river as _Wolfembutel_, in a watry plain, having a large extent, but narrow streets, and houses of the old fashion almost intirely of wood, most of which have a date over the door of three or four hundred years standing. The stadthouse is of the same or greater antiquity, and adorned with a variety of statues on the outside. The town is fortified, but neither with great regularity nor strength. The castle is the residence of the Duke, being an old decayed building. I staid here from nine in the morning till three in the afternoon, where I found the mum, for which this place is so celebrated, not so good, as that they export for sale. It is made only of malt well brewed, and the liquor boiled a second time in an equal quantity of the same. However the art is peculiar to this place, and cannot be imitated at _Wolfembutel_, tho it is so very near. Nor, on the other hand, can the excellent beer of _Wolfembutel_ be equal’d here. They are likewise famous for a large sort of sausage, which is made of raw meat and spices.

At three a clock I depart for _Hanover_ by the way of _Peine_, with an intention, as is here the custom, to travel all night. In the way betwixt seven and eight a clock (which at this time of the year had been entirely dark, unless for the benefit of the moon) the post horses tired in an open feild, and refused to stir a step farther; by which means we were detained above an hour, till the postilion procured others from a neighbouring village. I was then in company of an Italian man and a French woman, whose company somewhat relieved the affliction of this accident. By twelve a clock we reach _Peine_, and after half an hour’s refreshment the Italian and I proceed for _Hanover_, thro a wide and watry common.

December xxiv.

By eight a clock this morning I arrive at _Hanover_, where I wait on Mr. _Cresset_, and his chaplain Mr. _Lombard_. And being invited by the former to diner, we no sooner rise from table, but news was brought, that my Lord Paget, having changed his mind, had turned out of the road for _Heldesheim_ to this place; to whom therefore I repair at his lodgings without the gate of the city.

December xxv.

Tho this was _Christmas_ day, his Excellency had nevertheless no service in his family. And the day following I made a visit to Mr. Scott, Sir Chumley Deering, Mr. Wright, and some others. The next day being Sunday, his Excellency had service in his family. At five a clock in the evening I was introduced by Mr. Scott, and lady Belmont, to kiss the hand of the Princess Dowager _Sophía_, who did me the honour to discourse with me half an hour about the state of Turkey. The same night a tragedy was acted at the theatre of the court, and afterwards the _Mariage forcé_ of _Moliere_; which I then saw, for the opportunity of seeing at the same time the Prince Elector, the Prince his son, and the Princess his daughter, with the Electress Dowager, who were all present.

December xxviii.

His Excellency proceeds in his way to _Osnaburg_; but I continue still at _Hanover_, with an intention to take post for _Hamburg_, and dine this day with Mr. _Cresset_. The day following in the afternoon I visit the library and cabinet of Abbot _Gerhardus_, otherwise called _Molanus_. His cabinet consists of a vast collection of modern coins, particularly those of Germany, among which he has intire sets of the houses of _Brunswick_ and _Saxony_. He has likewise a rich and numerous collection of medals of all the European kingdoms, stampt upon the most celebrated occasions; and many of them are gold, some of which weigh an hundred ducats, and others but little less. Those of _Sweden_ seemed to me the noblest both for the work and device, particularly one of _Gustavus Adolphus_, upon marching his army over the frozen _Baltick_, with this inscription: NATURA HOC DEBVIT VNI. Another of _Charles_ the eleventh, with the reverse of the _North star_, and inscribed: NESCIT OCCASVM. Those of the house of _Hanover_ are likewise curious, particularly one of the Princess Dowager, stampt by her about fourteen years since; the reverse a _sun_ setting without a cloud, and the words: _Senza turbarmi al fin m’accosto._ Another of the young Prince _George Augustus_, the reverse a _fountain_ springing up in a strong perpendicular column of water, with this legend: VIS INSITA DVCIT IN ALTVM. Besides these he has a good collection of antient medals; the most remarkable of which were _Julianus_ the first; and _Antinous_ of the first size, if genuine, the reverse a _sheep_.

By eleven a clock this night I depart in the post waggon for _Zell_, and in the way make these observations on _Hanover_, and the persons I saw there. The town is moderately large, fair, and compact, seated on the _Leine_, and reasonably well fortified. The palace of the Prince is old, and mean in outward appearance, but within beautiful and splendid. The clergy here is but meanly esteemed, and more meanly provided for; except that Abbot _Gerhardus_ has an income (the sole remainder of church lands not sequestered) to the yearly value of eight hundred pounds sterling. By this preferment he is superintendent of the whole clergy in the territories of the Duke of _Brunswick Hanover_, and is by the same incapable of marrying. The Elector is a sage, discreet, just, and sober Prince. The Princess his mother is courteous, affable, condescending, and prudent; well versed in the Dutch, English, French, and Italian languages; and gay and vigorous to a miracle at the age of seventy two. The young Prince is brisk, affable, and ingenious. The Princess, daughter to the Elector, comely, ingenious, lively, and her courteous behaviour charms all, who converse with her. Mr. _Cresset_, who has long resided as Envoy to this court, and those of _Zell_, _Brunswick_, and _Wolfembutel_, is a wise and pious gentleman, has a family well governed, and lives much to the honour of himself and his country.

December xxx.

By seven a clock this morning I arrive at _Zell_, where I remain the rest of the day, and take that opportunity of seeing the castle; as likewise the venerable old Duke, _William George_, now eighty years of age; to whom I was admitted by the favour of Mr. _Robbeton_ and Mr. _De la Forest_, two gentlemen who here shewed me great civility.

December xxxi.

I set forward from _Zell_, and lodge this night at a post house, in a small village called _Sorndorf_. The country is here pleasant, with a variety of fir, oak, and other wood, but for the most part barren, and overrun, with heath.

January i.

From _Sorndorf_ I reach _Harburg_ by twelve a clock this day, dine there, and then take boat for _Hamburg_ cross the _Elbe_. The river is here above a German mile broad, and interspersed with various islands. In the evening I delivered Mr. _Cresset’s_ recommendations to Mr. Aldersey, who thereupon received me courteously, and procured me a good lodging from Mr. Townly in the English house. I was detained here to the twenty eighth of this month, partly by the extremity of the frost, which had made the _Elbe_ now unpassable; and partly by the kindness of our English merchants, who reside in this place.

_Hamburg_ is a free imperial city, chief of the _Hanse_ towns, and seated on the north side of the _Elbe_, where it receives the _Alster_. The figure of it is semicircular, being almost straight towards the _Elbe_, which it receives by many chanels into the very heart of the city. Some of these chanels serve as harbours to the ships, others to convey goods to the magazines of merchants, and others to bring water to the houses, particularly of the brewers, who have cranes to draw water into their vessels. It is about two Italian miles in length, and above five in circumference. The streets are well paved, tho narrow, and the houses beautiful in the front, especially in the _Wantrum_, the _Green_, and _Catherine_ street. The fortifications are substantial, consisting intirely of ramparts of earth, covered with grass, and not faced with brick. They are constantly maintained in good repair; tho it is commonly objected to them, that the inward works are too high, so that being raised too much above the outward, they are exposed to the first attack of the enemy. There are six gates, all beautiful and stately buildings; that particularly, which is called the gate of _Altena_, because it leads to that place, is said to have cost an hundred thousand crowns. The strength of the city was lately tried, in the year 1686 (If I mistake not) by the King of _Denmark_, who then laid siege to it, tho without success. He had depended upon the treachery of two principal burgers, who had promised to admit him into the town; but their treason being accidentally detected, and they put to the torture, the matter was soon confessed, and they deservedly executed. The head of one of them is still exposed on an iron Spike over the _Steingate_. In confidence of this concerted treachery that Prince came so unprovided, that he could invest no more of the town, than that which faces _Altena_ which gave occasion to the Holland _gazeteer_ to say, that the King of _Denmark_ had besieged the eighth part of _Hamburg_. During the siege he was baffled even by the small castle, called _Sternfort_, about a mile distant from the town; which by a line of communication they releived every day at twelve a clock, and so maintained it against the enemy. To add to the strength of the city they are now building a new detached work, consisting of an intire rampart, to be continued from the east side of the _Alster_ to the _Elbe_, which is a noble fortification, and will at the same time guard and enlarge the space of the city. It is divided into the _New_ and the _Old City_, the former of which is the more stately and beautiful of the two.

The religion of this place is Lutheran, in which the government is so strict, as to admit of no other religious assembly, except that of the church of England, which is allowed to the English company. The city is divided into five parishes, that of _St. Catharine_, _St. Peter_, _St. James_, _St. Nicholas_, and _St. John_. To each of these are dedicated so many fair and spatious churches, all well adorned with sculptures, paintings, organs, and altars. That of _St. Catharine_ exceeds the rest, and is particularly remarkable for a noble stone pulpit, the whole consisting of the bed marble, carved into the figures of the twelve _Apostles_, and other religious devices; for several large inimitable pieces of painting in _fresco_ against the north wall; and for a stately organ, supposed to be the largest and finest in the world. It has fifty four stops, and consists of five thousand pipes, all gradually proportioned from the biggest, which is three fourths of an English yard in diameter, to the least, no larger than the last joint of ones little finger. In the same church is admirably well painted the _Temple of Solomon_ in perspective. Besides these parish churches, there is the cathedral, commonly there called the _Dome_; and a new church in the middle of the _New City_. The _Dome_ is now almost out of use, except for some occasional sermons; and the porch, with the several isles, are possessed by booksellers shops: tho this is what is likewise common to the porches, and other outward apartments, of the most frequented churches. The five parish churches, and that of the _New City_, have each of them their pastor, and besides him two or three chaplains; so that the number of clergymen here amounts to above twenty, of which one is superintendant over them, and the clergy of the whole territory. This however is very small, as not reaching down the river _Elbe_ farther than the limits of _Altena_, a large town within half a mile of _Hamburg_, belonging to the King of _Denmark_. On the other sides it is encompassed with the dominions of the Duke of _Holstein_, at the distance of two or three miles; only up the _Elbe_ it has a narrow tract of ground subject to the city, for the space of twenty miles, in which are some small villages, that acknowledge its jurisdiction. The church lands belonging to the cathedral are now possessed by burgers, or others of the city; but under the same titles, by which they formerly belonged to the church, as _dean_, _canons_, and others. Which sequestration, as it seems to be a sacrilegious usurpation; so their continuing the right under the same titles, is only a monument and confession of the crime.