Part 14

From the cathedral we are carried to the _Capuchin_ cloister, which consists of a small but most beautiful quadrangle. Round the four sides, under a fair portico, are painted thirty different copies of so many of the most eminent and miraculous images of the _Virgin_, each in the proper garb, posture, and colours of the originals; and the remaining space of the wall beneath is filled with votive tables, in acknowledgement of favours received from each picture. I thought this collection observable, in that it is an apparent instance of the different representations of the _B. Virgin_, who is not invoked under the same character in all places, and on all occasions; but according to the fancy of the first painters, and the superstition of the late devotees, is split into so many distinct objects of worship; as the Lady _de Victoria_, _de Litera_, _de Consilio_, _Crysostomiana_, _Cyrilliana_, _Bernardina_, _Lauretana_, _Eremitana_, _Cellensis_, _Passaviensis_, _Wranoviensis_, _Hallensis_. As this shews how polytheism crept in among the heathen, who first of all worshiped God under so many distinct attributes, and afterwards as so many distinct beings; so it argues greater superstition in the church of Rome: for instead of the several characters of _Venus_, as _Cypria_, _Cytherea_, _Victrix_, and others; or of _Diana_, as _Aricinia_, _Leucophryne_, _Taurica_[139]; we have many more of _Sta. Maria_. In the middle of this quadrangle is an handsome imitation of the chapel of _Loretto_ with the _Virgin_ and our _Savior_ above the altar in the complection of _Moors_; and on the outside walls are various religious stories elegantly represented.

From hence we proceed to the celebrated cloister of Premonstratensians, called the _Shawhoff_ in which above an hundred persons are maintained in a princely manner. I was here shewn a rich chapel, wherein before the incursion of the Swedes were many large and curious statues of solid brass, particularly those of the twelve _Apostles_; which by Count _Koningsmarck_ were converted into canon, when he took this part of the city, tho he was soon again repulsed. In the middle of the church, in a stately open monument, is preserved the body of _St. Norbert_, the founder of this order. Over the tomb is suspended a gilt crown of a prodigious size, the diameter of the rimb being at least three ells. After the chapel I saw their library, which is neat and well filled, but with books in the taste of the last age. They have here a monkish contrivance of a wheeling desk with six sides, on each of which may lie several books, so as to be turned round in their order, without falling off in the motion. From the library we passed to their private chapel, wherein is a crucifix, which the monk, who shewed it us, attested to have seen illuminated in the night, while no candle was in the room. In an adjoining gallery is a large statue of our _Savior_, which they affirm to have once sweat blood about the neck, and shew the marks thereof still remaining. From hence we are carried to their winter refectory, a large and regular stove room, well contrived for warmth and beauty at the same time. But their summer refectory is a pattern of beauty, proportion, and magnificence, being paved with black and white marble, with three large windows on one side, and round the walls about twelve large pictures of eminent persons of their order; and the whole is exceedingly well contrived, both for the entertainment of the mind, and repose of the body. They shewed us likewise another large room, with a numerous collection of their most meritorious members in little squares; and last of all the chambers of the monks, with two adjoining gardens, one for the fathers, the other for the brethren of the society, which completed the pleasure of the sight.

Next to this convent we went to see a Jewish synagogue, of which there are eight in this place, the number of that nation amounting to above ten thousand, who for distinction sake are all obliged to wear a blue ruff.

On the stately bridge over the _Muldaw_ are to be observed several curious statues of the _Virgin_; of our _Savior_; and of the new _Saint_ lately set up in all parts of this kingdom, as well as on all the bridges of _Vienna_, being a curious piece of cast brass with this inscription:

DIVO IOANNI NEPOMENENO ANNO MCCCLXXXIII AB HOC PONTE DEIECTO EREXIT MATTHIAS L. B. DE WVNESWITZ ANNO MDCLXXXIII.

He was here drowned for not revealing to the King of Bohemia a confession of his Queen.

The famous university of this place, which in the time of _John Huss_ consisted of forty thousand students, is not even now so far diminished, but that when they have occasion to assault the Jews, or other citizens, they can muster about twelve thousand. They consist of young persons, not collected into regular societies, as with us, but lodging in private houses, from whence they repair to the public schools at the appointed hours of lecture. There are three of these schools, one in each part of the city, where all academical learning is professed by the ablest of the Jesuits; for these have the sole direction of the university, and are the only rich prevailing persons in Bohemia, particularly in the capital city, where they amount to the number of a thousand.

November xxiv.

This day we leave _Prague_, and proceed four miles, thro an open ploughed country, to _Sloney_. In the way we receive the confirmation of the good news, which we first heard at _Iglaw_; that seventeen Spanish galleons in the port of _Vigo_ were fallen under the power of our grand fleet, eleven being taken, and six sunk; and that the whole squadron of _Chateaurenault_, being twenty nine men of war, were either sunk or taken.

November xxv.

His Excellency continues yet at _Sloney_, a small but walled town, with a large market place, as usual in these parts. It was formerly a seat of protestants, and therefore barbarously destroyed by _Ferdinand_ the third. The day following we intend for _Launa_, three miles from hence; but the place being taken up for the quarters of five thousand Saxon soldiers, now moving against Bavaria, we lodge at _Clamston_, half an hour short of it; where we continue two days, by reason of a great quantity of snow, which then fell.

November xxix.

Leaving _Clamston_, at the distance of one quarter of a German mile we pass under the walls of _Launa_, and there cross the _Egra_ by a long wooden bridge, covered with a penthouse, as is usual in this country. From thence we come to _Bitin_, the estate of Prince _Lobcowitz_, where we bait one hour; and from thence proceed to _Deplitz_, the estate and seat of Count _Clery_, remarkable for an hot bath.

November xxx.

His Excellency from hence designed the straight road, by the way of _Framstein_, _Friburg_ (where are silver mines, and the tombs of the electors of Saxony) _Waltheim_, _Coldick_, _Walcowitz_, and so to _Leipsick_. In the mean time he permitted me to quit his retinue, in order to see _Dresden_. With this intent I take a post waggon from _Deplitz_ to _Peterswaldt_, the distance of two miles, in which I pass the hill of _Kaiasberg_. From _Peterswaldt_ I take a new post, and soon after I have left the town pass the boundary of _Bohemia_ and _Saxony_; and at two miles end changing post at a little village not far from _Pirn_, by this third post I come under its walls, and presently am upon the banks of the _Elbe_, along which I ride about half an hour, and then quitting the river arrive about five a clock at _Dresden_, being in all six miles from _Deplitz_. It being now dark, I repair immediately to my lodgings at the house of one _Leonard Serert_, betwixt the two market places, a civil host, who spoke both French and Italian. The way from _Peterswaldt_ to _Dresden_ is very agreable, being interspersed with woods of fir. The villages are better built, and more populous, than those of _Bohemia_; where indeed neither towns nor villages are thin, but the people very few, and those dejected with a sense of poverty and slavery, occasioned partly by the tyranny of the church, and partly by the constitution of the government, which makes the peasants slaves to their Lords, as in _Moravia_.

December i.

I continue at _Dresden_ this and the three following days, to observe the curiosities of the place. It is a neat well built town, with straight and fair streets, compact but not large, enclosed within a regular fortification, and a deep foss constantly filled with water. It stands upon the _Elbe_, over which it has a noble bridge, almost as long as that of _Prague_, supported by eighteen arches, and on each side affording a delightful prospect along the bending chanel of the water. By this bridge the city is joined to a neat suburb, called _Old Dresden_, the residence chiefly of merchants, among whom I found two Englishmen, Mr. Northleigh and Mr. Dealing, by both whom I was kindly treated. _Dresden_ was always the residence of the Electors of Saxony, till this present Elector was chosen King of _Poland_. However it is the ordinary seat both of the Electress, and the Prince, who is six years old; but both of them happened to be absent now. The Deputy of the Elector is the Prince of _Furstemberg_, who is of the Popish religion, but the whole town is intirely Lutheran. They have three churches, _St. Cross_, _Sta. Sophia_, and the chapel of the court. _St. Cross_ is a large antient Gothic building, well adorned in the inside, particularly with a carved and stately altar. The number of ministers is about twelve, whose revenue is very small, and therefore the people here complain, that they make up that defect by the abuses of confession. The palace is a fair stone building, consisting of two courts, of which the first is large and regular, adorned both within and without with very good carving, and painting in _fresco_, which deserves regard, particularly one part of it that fronts the street, and represents a _Roman triumph_. The gardens are likewise curious, and the riding school is remarkably spatious; but what obscures every thing else in _Dresden_, and perhaps all others of the same kind in Germany, is the _kunstkammer_, with the arsenal, and stable of the Elector. Each of these are shewn to strangers at the price of three florins, the curiosities of which I reduced into a catalogue. On the bridge at _Dresden_ is erected a curious brass _crucifix_, not inferior to that of _Prague_ in the workmanship, but far exceeding it in design, and bearing an inscription, that disavows all superstitious worship.

December iv.

At six a clock this evening, it being then very dark, I take a passage in the ordinary post chaise for _Leipsick_, paying four florins for the space of thirteen German miles. By ten at night we come to _Misten_, and there cross the _Elbe_ over a large covered bridge. The benefit of the star light gives me opportunity to observe some part of the town, particularly the castle seated on very high ground. Hence we continue our journey all night, till about ten a clock the next morning we come to _Wurzen_, where we dine; and then ferrying over the _Muldaw_, now a large and rapid river, after having endured a cold and severe snow all the day, we arrive at _Leipsick_ about five a clock in the afternoon, where I provide myself with a private lodging.

December vi.

This morning his Excellency and his retinue arrive at _Leipsick_ by eleven a clock, and lodge at the _Golden hen_ in the high street, to which place I therefore now remove myself.

_Leipsick_ is a neat and compact place, well built, the streets almost straight, and conveniently wide. The market place is a regular quadrangle, surrounded with fair and lofty houses, among which is the town hall, or court of justice. Not far from the market is another small square, at one end of which is a new and spatious room, to which we ascend by stone steps. This serves for an exchange, where the merchants meet. The city has three large churches, one of _St. Nicholas_, another of _St. Thomas_, and a third called the _New Church_. These are all well beautified within, especially that of _St. Nicholas_, the altar of which is a neat pile, representing in good sculpture the burial and resurrection of our _Savior_, his shewing his wounds to _St. Thomas_ and the other disciples, and over the whole his ascension in a cloud. At the upper end of the two outward isles are painted two good pieces of perspective. The town has no public buildings, besides an old castle, and a new hospital; the latter of which serves both for the reception of lunatics, and also a house of correction for vagabonds. The fortification is regular, and of the new fashion, but not of any great importance; however it has a foss, that may be filled with water upon occasion from the _Pleiss_, which washes the walls of the city.

The town is governed by a senate of twenty three, of whom three, called _Burgomasters_, have the prime authority; and by a chief magistrate, who has the title of _consul_, and is chosen annually. The present consul is one _Romanus_, a young gentleman of great fortune, and vast designs; who is erecting a noble palace in the city, built of free stone. Among the senators are several persons of quality, who have fair estates, and a learned education.

There is a good library belonging to the city, lately purchased at the expence of the senators, and which they daily improve by new accessions. Among the citizens of this rank and character I contracted an acquaintance with Mr. _Wagner_, who speaks good English, and has been long preparing a comment on the obscurities of Barclay’s _Euphormio_, concerning which he has commissioned me to make several enquiries. Another person of the like learning and civility is Mr. _Graevius_ (brother to the eminent critic in Holland) who has the care of the city library, and favoured me with the sight of it. These with many other particulars, that might be mentioned, are arguments of a rich and flourishing city; which is occasioned partly from the confluence of students to the university; and partly from the benefit of three celebrated fairs of fourteen days each, which are annually kept here, and furnished with merchandizes of all sorts, not only from the several parts of Germany, but likewise from Italy, Hungary, France, Holland, England, and other countries.

The staple commodities of the town are the linen manufacture, and a natural blue earth, which is dug only in some metalic mines of Saxony, and which to the vast advantage of this place is exported from hence to England, Holland, and elsewhere, for the use of dying. As to the execution of justice, adultery is here a capital crime, but in this case the criminal must be convicted by his own confession, to which they oblige him by force of torture. The beauty of the city, which appears to a good advantage by day light, is however not lost in the night, by means of their new lamps, which are ranged in an orderly manner, stand very close to each other, and are kept with great neatness. The gardens of the principal gentlemen, and merchants here resident, are without the fortifications; and being as well exceeding rich, as beautified with great art, add a noble ornament to the place.

The university is in a flourishing state, and has a true taste of polite literature, especially as to philosophical studies. Tho I know not whether they merit that character with regard to classical learning. It is not now so numerous as formerly; because _Hall_, which within these ten years has been erected into an university by the King of _Prussia_, depriving them of their numbers, has reduced them perhaps from three to one thousand students. They have six colleges, called _Paulinum_, _Petrinum_, _Majorum_ and _Minorum Principum_, _Rubrum_, and _B. Mariae Virginis_. Each of these have their _praepositus_, and some few stipends. But when we mention academical colleges abroad, we must fall much below the idea of those, with which we are so happily acquainted at _Oxford_ and _Cambridge_. In these colleges are their auditories, or schools, of public lectures for philosophy, and the three superior faculties. These are regularly taught by their respective professors, of which the university is furnished with six in divinity, five in law, four in physic, and nine in philosophy, humanity, and history. Besides these, several of the more eminent doctors, and elder students, have their private lectures, to which the younger resort at their pleasure, and this with greater frequency and better success, than to the lectures publicly established. The degrees in philosophy are that of batchelor and master of arts; in the faculties, of licentiate and doctor. Persons of note in the university, whom I visited, were Dr. _Efficke_ professor of divinity; and Dr. _Otto Menchenius_ professor of moral philosophy, who is likewise the editor of the _Acta Eruditorum_, of which I purchased an intire set from the year 1682 to this present time, consisting of twenty five volumes in _quarto_. Other eminent persons, with whom I had a more frequent conversation, were Dr. _Goëtze_, Dr. _Menchenius junior_, and Mr. _Olearius junior_. The two former are doctors of law, and the latter professor of humanity. To these I may add Mr. _Thomas Fritsel_ bookseller, a person who has made an useful tour over Europe; speaks several modern languages, as well as Latin; and to whom I was obliged for a particular mark of courtesy, and the present of several useful books. Not only he, but the three gentlemen last mentioned speak good English, which language is much esteemed and studied in this place. Dr. _Menchenius_ shewed me the little work of _Alcyonius De exilio_, which I was glad to see, because it is said to have been compiled out of _Cicero’s_ treatise _De gloria_; which the plagiary for that reason took occasion to suppress. Dr. _Goëtze_ among several fair manuscripts, and old editions of classic authors, shewed me a neat but antient satyr _On the Pope and Court of Rome_. It is a manuscript, as yet unprinted, in Elegiac verse, entitled _Eironeia Gaufridi_. He has also a curious and fair manuscript of _Columella_, another of a Greek _Menologion_, a very old _Greek Testament_, printed in Spain, with the Latin in the margin; but exactly referring in every word by cautious notes from the known to the unknown language, lest the monks of that time should have taken γενέσεως to signify _liber_, and βίβλος _generationis_. In another old Spanish book, concerning the antiquities of that country, he shewed me a copy of the old Gothic character; in which it is observable, that the vowels are generally incorporated with the consonants, which they follow.

In the two libraries of this place, the one belonging to the university, the other to the senate, I took notice of the following curiosities.

In the former I observed two celebrated pictures of _Luther_ and _Melancthon_, both taken after their death. Several specimens of what they called _moneta bracteata_, lately found in Saxony; but which I take to have been only leaves of silver covering a mass of inferior metal. An old manuscript of _Homer_, with large _Scholia_, which they here think have never been published. The draught of an old _idol_ worshiped in Germany; the original of which was a short brass image of an human figure, hollow within, and contrived to make an artificial wind issue out of his mouth, like the globes of that sort now become so common.

In the library of the senate I observed an Egyptian _mummy_. Several Roman _urns_ and _funeral lamps_. Saxon _urns_, like others which I observed at _Dresden_ and elsewhere, full of thin fragments of bones; in one of which were found several small iron and brass instruments, and upon a thin plate of brass the two following letters, ⲱ. ⲉ. A fine collection of coins. A good manuscript of _Theocritus_. A noble specimen of the rich silver mines in Saxony, in a mass about three feet long and two broad, the whole of which almost is pure metal.

Adjoining to the _Collegium Paulinum_ is the university church, where they have prayers on festival days. It is full of antient and modern monuments, all of good work. This university took its rise from the dispersion of the _Hussites_, and the banishment of _John Huss_ himself from _Prague_. And by its first constitution it is appropriated to four nations; the _Misnians_ (of whom _Leipsick_ is the metropolis) the other hereditary countries of the Elector of _Saxony_, the _Bavarians_, and the _Poles_. The chief magistrate annually elected here is called _rector magnificus_, as in other German universities; and in him, with his subordinate officers, rests the sole government and jurisdiction of this learned body. The present _rector_ is Dr. _Cyprianus_, professor of divinity.

It was in _Leipsick_, that I first observed the Lutheran manner of communicating. The priest and the deacon, who assists him, are habited in surplices, copes, and sleeves, like those of the Greeks and Romanists. The service is chanted by the priests standing, and the people round about at a distance, but in the same posture. The consecration being ended, the communicants draw near, and on the north side of the altar approach the priest, who delivers into the mouth of each of them still standing the consecrated wafer. The communicants from thence walk round the back part of the altar, and so come to the deacon, from whom they likewise standing receive the cup, and thence return orderly to their proper places. In the mean time, while the species are delivered by the priest on one side and the deacon on the other, two choristers habited likewise in copes and surplices attend each, holding under them a rich pall of velvet, or other stuff, to receive any particle of the elements, which may fall accidentally. This done, they likewise chant a thanksgiving service in a standing posture, and so depart. The ecclesiastics of the place wear large white ruffs, not only in time of divine service, but likewise as their ordinary habit when in public; and with this a round cloth cap, like that lately alloted to the commoners in the university of _Oxford_.

These are the principal observations I had leisure to make at _Leipsick_, where his Excellency staid from the sixth to the fourteenth of this month. On this day therefore we proceed on our journey five German miles to _Hall_ over an open arable country. This is an antient city, founded and perfected by the several _Othos_, Emperors of Germany. It is now large, but meanly built, tho famous for its salt pits, from whence it has the name of _Hall_. In these they work night and day with an uninterrupted diligence, nor ever cease, but in the time of divine service on Sundays. It is situated on the river _Sala_, which name corresponds with that of the city.