Part 13

The third solemnity was a pompous procession, undertaken to accompany the bones of three Saints, namely, _Sancta Victoria_, _Sanctus Alexander_, and _Sanctus Justus_, from _St. Stephen’s_ to the chapel of the Emperor’s palace in the city. They were newly brought from Italy, where being observed by Prince _Leichtenstein_ in his late embassy to _Rome_, and found to have some relation to Hungary, of which two of them were natives; they were thought proper to be transmitted to _Vienna_, and accordingly purchased very dear, one of them standing him in no less than four thousand florins. In this procession marched all the religious orders, ranked in their several fraternities, except that the Jesuit disposed themselves promiscuously among the laity. After the monks and friars followed the meaner people, to the number of about two thousand; then the gentry, tho in a smaller number; after them a few of the nobility; then the Archduke and Emperor; and last of all the Empress and Archdutchesses. Each person of this numerous train maintained a decent gravity, except the Archbishop of _Vienna_, who being dressed in his episcopal robes and mitre walked like a horse in gaudy trappings, flinging about his legs, surveying his rich vestments, and looking up to the ladies and other spectators, who admired him from the windows, under which he passed.

August xxvii.

This day I went in a calash, together with Mr. Montague and Mr. _Gaugain_, to _Petronel_, a village on the _Danube_, about twenty four English miles from _Vienna_, seated in the place of the antient _Carnuntum_, where _M. Antoninus_ held his capital quarters to bridle the _Marcomanni_ for the space of three years, and then retiring on account of his indisposition to _Vindobona_ died there. While we were on the road, I was entertained by those gentlemen, with a relation of what they had seen the day before. Count _Sherradin_ of _Bohemia_ had several times shot a pistol bullet into a mark of the size of a florin, at the distance of forty yards. And at this he is said to be so expert, that his pages will venture to hold a florin between their thumb and forefinger, which he dextrously uses to strike without hurting them. The like is sometimes practised by the present King of _Poland_, tho he once broke the fingers of a page in making the experiment. We here saw the remains of a triumphal arch, the _fornix_ of which is yet intire; erected, as is thought by _Nesselius_ and _Lambecius_, on occasion of that _Pannonian_ expedition of _Tiberius_, which is so much celebrated by _Paterculus_[136]. The inhabitants here shewed us various Roman coins, tho none of any noted value. The village now belongs to Count _Traun_, who is descended from _Babo_, count of _Abensberg_, who had forty children by two lawful wives; thirty two of which, being sons, were presented by him to the Emperor, _Henry_ the second, who prefered them all. Count _Traun_ has here a stately palace, called the _Castle_, where we saw the story of the thirty two sons of Count _Babo_ painted at large[137]. The house is moted round, as is usual all over this country. In the inside is a noble hall, well painted in the roof, and at the entrance of the gate is fixt an antient Latin inscription, which I have here transcribed.

SILVANAB. ET QVADRIBIS[138] AVG. SACRVM C. ANTONINVS VALENTINVS VET. LEG. XIIII. G. MVRVM A FV NDAMENTIS CVM SVO INT ROITO ET PORTICVM CVM ACCVBITO VETVSTATE CONLA BSVM IMPENDIO SVO RESTITV IT GENTIANO ET BASSO COS.

August xxix.

His Excellency with his whole family retired this day from _Vienna_ to _Baden_, a small town, yet enclosed with an old wall, and celebrated for its baths, which are of pure sulphur. They rise in several places about the town, without any mixture of steel or other mineral, and are there collected into several square cisterns railed about with wood; where people of different quality bathe in distinct bagnios, and in some cases with good success. The town is seated four hours from _Vienna_, at the foot of the hills, which I take to be the _Pannonian Alps_. In this place Mr. Paget and I used the constant exercise of walking morning and evening, where I experienced a happy restoration of my health, once much debilitated in Turkey. _Gloria in excelsis Deo!_

September xxv.

His Excellency now sent Mr. Paget and myself to see the castle of _Luxemburg_, situated in the way betwixt _Baden_ and _Vienna_. It is a mean building, in the form of a small quadrangle, and moted round. I observed several curious pictures in it, one particularly fine of the _seven liberal sciences_, in the dining room of the Emperor; another of the present _King of France_, when about four years of age; a third of _Charles the fifth_; a fourth of _Matthias Corvinus_ and his father _Huniades_. The dining room is observable for an accident of thunder, which, while the Emperor and his family were at diner, entered the room at one quarter, passed in a semicircle about the table, and made its way thro the opposite wall with great explosion; while the Emperor remained in his seat with a remarkable calmness and serenity of mind. Adjoining to this building is a delightful park enclosed with pales; and nearer to the house a thick grove of elm and oak, in which is a long walk, and avenues so cut, as to resemble all the streets of _Vienna_.

September xxix.

This day Mr. Paget and I by the direction of his Excellency went to see a glass house, newly erected in the hills adjoining to this place, at the distance of about three hours. Our way thither lay thro a delicious vale, which conveys a small river, is graced with green meadows on each side, and above these with rising hills, adorned with a variety of trees, but particularly pines and firs. I here observed the several curiosities of that art and manufacture, which, tho frequent in England, I had never before seen. Returning home we stept a little to the left hand, to visit a convent of _Cistercian_ monks, by the name of _St. Cross_, founded in the year 1131, by _St. Leopold_, Marquess of _Austria_. During the late siege of _Vienna_ it was burnt by the Tartars (the common fate of all this country for thirty or forty Holland miles round _Vienna_) but soon after rebuilt by its own abbot, _Clement Scheffer_, in a more stately and splendid manner. Here reside an abbot, a prior, and about sixty monks, all royally maintained by noble revenues belonging to the monastery. They are neatly and gentilely dressed, lodged in pleasant chambers, have their public appartments alike magnificent, a fine garden, and prospects beautified with vistos and avenues cut in the adjoining woods. The abbot was then absent, but the prior and librarian treated us at supper, where we were served with seven or eight dishes, the best old wines, and conversation far from monkish. The librarian particularly was pleased to ridicule the custom of signing all the doors of this country with C. M. B. which the people fondly esteem a charm against fire and thievery; but he, as he said, instead of _Cuspar Malcheir Bulkasar_, was wont to interpret these letters _Cax Mundus Beelzebub_. At the same time I could not but be highly offended at a certain jocular freedom, with which he treated the _Holy Scripture_, saying with a profane mirth, when he delivered to us a glass of wine, _Transeat a me calix iste_; and when he had tossed off his own, _Consummatum est_. In truth we here saw not any token of popish zeal or superstition, as is usual in other places, no crucifixes, or images of the _Trinity_, _Virgin_, and the like; but instead of these, the whole Imperial family excellently well painted, and these in rooms, which for grandeur exceeded any, that the Emperor is master of in his palaces about _Vienna_. Here they favoured us with a lodging after a gentile and candid entertainment, and dismissed us in the like manner by eight a clock the next morning. Their library was mean, but the case very neat; tho the library had been much larger before the destruction by the Tartars. However I saw here a good Latin _Ms._ of the _New Testament_, without the _Epistles_ of _St. Peter_, _James_, or _John_; and the _Apocalypse_ placed immediately after _St. John’s Gospel_.

October iv.

My Lord and his family now returned from _Baden_ to _Vienna_, where he lodged within the city in the house of _C. Stratman_, at the rate of five hundred florins a month. At _Baden_ I was able to observe nothing, except some small matters relating to country affairs. As their way of making wine in the field, where they mash the grapes in broad open tubs, and tun it into large casks, as they lie in the cart. The manner of enclosing their vineyards with high poles joined at the top, and burnt at bottom to secure them from corrupting by the moisture of the ground. The manner of drawing sometimes with asses, and at other times with oxen, joining the harness to their horns without the use of yokes. I observed likewise their custom of calling a public officer upon the death of any animal; before which they dare not touch the carcass, he only being impowered to carry it away to a certain place, and there flea it, for which he receives three florins. This officer is called the _hound slayer_, because twice a year he is obliged to kill all the dogs both in town and country, that are found without a collar, which is thought an institution against spreading of infectious diseases.

October v.

This day I waited upon Mr. Stepney, who among other papers from England shewed me that traiterous Epigram, written in praise of _Sorrel_, or the horse, from which his late Majesty received his fatal fall.

October xxv.

There was brought to his Excellency’s house a male child, seven years of age, born at _Rigetsch_, three miles and a half from _Papa_, of a beautiful countenance, but without legs or thighs; and the left hand deformed, but the right intire. It walks, and raises itself with ease, while its trunk supplies the use of one leg, and the right hand that of the other. The hips terminate in a round figure, not unlike a woman’s breasts, and have in the middle an excrescence exactly resembling a large nipple. The child is healthy and lively, and from the crown of the head to the extremity of the trunk is three palms and a half long.

I had now, in company of several English gentlemen, an opportunity of seeing the Emperor’s collection of pictures, which is exposed at the price of twelve florins. It consists of three long galleries, with four or five large and square chambers. The whole number of pieces amounts to a thousand six hundred and sixty three, performed by the best hands of Europe, particularly these which follow: _Albert Durer_, _Anton. Correggio_, _Bassan_, _Palma_ senior and junior, _Prugel_ senior and junior, _Paul Veronese_, _Bronzini_, _Franck_ senior, _Paduanino_, _Jo. Bellino_, _Poussin_, _Gerome Poss_, _Portononi_, _Spagnoletto_, _Raphael Sancio_, _Giorgioni_, _Titian_, _Tintoretto_, _Van Ach_, _Holbein_, _Rubens_, _Van Dick_, _John de Heem_, _Pauditz_, and others. Among these there was one piece of _Raphael_, which seemed to excel the rest, being _a saint holding a crucifix_, which belonged to the cabinet of King _Charles_ the first of England, and was sold by _Oliver_ to this court for twelve thousand florins. Besides this collection of pictures, there is another set of rarities, preserved in a cabinet at one end of the third gallery, and consisting of _intaglios_ and _cameos_; among which is a large head of _Domitian_ in agate; a series of gold medals, and among them two of _Otho_, to which is added a _Pisennius Niger_ in silver of the third size. In the same cabinet are several small statues of brass and stone, among the rest those of _Venus_ and _Hercules_; and likewise several antient busts, particularly of _Plato_ and _Aristotle_; with divers sepulchral lamps, urns, and other remains of antiquity. To say nothing of the curiosities found in the tomb of _Childeric_ the first by _Leopold William_, Archduke of _Austria_, and uncle to this Emperor, at _Tournay_ in the year 1657. Among these are some remarkable gold coins of that time, with the repeated emblem of flies or bees, the wings of which at a distance give the figure of a _flower de lys_, and are supposed to be the real arms of France, tho this resemblance has occasioned their being mistaken for that flower. But more especially is to be remembred the order of antient busts ranged on one side of the three galleries, among which are several heads of _Emperors_, and _Satyrs_, with one of _Socrates_; as likewise an intire figure of _Magna Mater turrita_, with a _lion_ under her chair, a _tympanum_ in her left hand, and _patina_ in her right; which cost this court a thousand florins at _Rome_.

November iii.

I went to visit Mr. _C. Boét_, a famous painter in enamel, who had a salary from his late Majesty, whose picture, with those of other confederate Princes, drawn by him he now shewed me. But that which is most remarkable, he is at present working for this court the largest piece, that ever was known in enamel, being an oval of eighteen inches by fifteen; which contains the figures of the Emperor and Empress, King and Queen of the _Romans_, with the Archduke, the four Archdutchesses, and the two young Daughters of the King of the _Romans_. He was sent for hither by his late Majesty on purpose for this work, for which when finished he is by compact to receive four thousand ducats of gold. The materials of it are a copper plate covered with a white enamel, which being hardened in the fire, is afterwards painted over in colours of a peculiar composition, with oil of lavender and rosemary; and then again put into the fire to receive a gloss, and additional hardness; after which it is liable to no accident, but that of breaking. It may be observed, that all the red colours in this work are made of gold.

November vi.

This day by order of his Excellency I waited on the two young _Messieurs Olmeus_ and others, in order to see the Emperor’s treasury the third time, and thereby perfected my catalogue of those rarities. And his Excellency being then preparing for his departure, the Emperor presented him with six thousand dollars.

November viii.

His Excellency with his retinue now set forward from _Vienna_ towards _Holland_, and proceed two german miles to _Entzersdorff_. A little before the midway we cross the _Danube_ over a wooden bridge four hundred paces in length, and continue near the banks of the river to the above mentioned town. And as we continued there the following day, I walked down to the banks of the _Danube_, where it flows under the castle of _St. Leopold_, near _Cloyster Newburg_, and in the extreme point of _Mons Cetius_.

November x.

This day we proceed two German miles and a half further to _Stockeran_, and there meet C. _Schlick_, Mr. Stepney, Mr. Montague, and Mr. _Gangain_, with whom we proceed three miles and a half further to our lodgings at _Holibrun_. And from thence his Excellency, with the said company, the next morning goes out an hour to Count _Sereny’s_, there to wait on the King of the _Romans_, now returning from the campaign on the _Rhine_. By one a clock the King and Queen arrived at the Count’s, where his Excellency had an audience of both their Majesties; after which they sat down to table, and his Excellency and company dined with the court, and afterwards returned to _Holibrun_.

November xii.

This day we advance about five miles further in _Austria_, and then crossing the _Teya_ enter into _Moravia_, now called _Makren_, and take up our quarters at _Znaim_, the _Medoslanium_ of Ptolemy. This is a fair and fortified town, tho of the old fashion, upon the river _Teya_, which runs hence into the _Morawa_, antiently the _Marus_, and with that into the _Danube_. In the year 1645 this town was taken and pillaged by the Swedes. It has two market places, in each of which is a good fountain; and in one of them the image of the _Virgin_, erected on a fair pillar, and inscribed with a new sort of _Gloria Patri_, that is, LAVS DEO, MARIAEQVE VIRGINI, SANCTISQUE SVIS. There are likewise several convents, of Capuchines, Dominicans, Jesuits, and Premonstratensians; and it is remarkable for excellent endive.

November xiii.

We stay this day at _Znaim_, and the day following proceed three German miles to _Budwitz_, thro pleasant woods of fir, with fertile open feilds. And moving from thence the next morning, three more German miles carry us thro _Babitz_ and _Drumna_ to _Pernitz_, by a pleasant way, thro a country sometimes open and well tilled; and at other times thro delightful woods of pine or fir, intermixt with juniper and a few birch; but scarce any other shrubs or trees in the whole country. At _Pernitz_ is a convent of _Paulins_, so called from _Sto. Francisco di Paula_, a strict order, that eats no flesh nor fish throughout the year. In this place live several Jews, who are bound to wear blue ruffs, as a mark of distinction.

November xvi.

Two German miles thro woods of fir and arable ground bring us to _Iglaw_. This city, reasonably well fortified, has a large and clean market place, round which the houses have false fronts, and are handsomely painted on the outside with pleasant landskips or histories. At the upper end of it is a statue of the _Virgin_ on a column, like that at _Znaim_; both seeming to be an imitation of that at _Vienna_. We bait an hour at _Iglaw_, and then pass on one German mile to a small village, called _Steken_. But immediately beyond the wall of _Iglaw_ we pass a river of the same name, and there enter into _Bohemia_, whence we continue our way over a large lake, with a road cast up betwixt the two branches of it, and delicate woods of fir adorning its banks. This wood is of large extent, and seems to be a continuation of the _Sylva Hercynia_ in this country, now called _Behemerwaldt_.

November xvii.

We stay this day at _Steken_, where I had leisure to observe in general concerning _Moravia_, that the country is fertile and well tilled, except where it is overrun with pine or fir woods. The people are all slaves to the lords of the several mansions; but this extends only to their labour, not the property of their gain. The language of the place is _Behemish_, a dialect of the _Sclavonian_; but at inns and other public houses they ordinarily speak _Tuysech_. The government it divided into five districts, of which there are as many captains, but the command of the whole province is committed by the Emperor to Count _Thorn_. The river _Morawa_ is likewise called _Mark_ by the Germans; which latter name seems to relate to the antient inhabitants, the _Marcomanni_ (who with the _Quadi_ were here settled) as the former name does to the _Moravians_. Through the whole extent of the country we frequent meet with large lakes, at the distance perhaps of an English mile.

November xviii.

This day we proceed one mile and a half to _Tuytschenbrodt_, an old fortification on the river _Sazawa_, and from thence two miles to _Habern_, in a wood on the right hand. _Tuytschenbrodt_ was the place, where General _Zeiska_ beat the Emperor _Sigismund_, and by that defeat drove him out of Bohemia.

November xix.

One mile brings us this day to _Janikaw_, and two more from thence to _Czaslaw_; the place where _Ferdinand_ the second narrowly escaped being assassinated by an Italian, hid for that purpose in an oven. Half a mile farther carries us to a small hamlet, called _Wasser Cratz_. Of these towns _Janikaw_ is the place, where the battle was fought betwixt the Swedes and Imperialists in 1645; and _Czaslaw_, where General _Zeiska_ lies buried.

November xx.

From _Wasser Cratz_ we proceed one quarter of a German mile, and then having the city of _Kuttenberg_ on our left hand, a little farther in the road we pass by two Imperial mines, where they are now at work, and dig up a mixt oar, consisting of copper, lead, and silver, a specimen of which they then shewed us. At one mile and a half from our last lodging we come to _Kottin_, and there breakfast. Then proceeding another mile and a half, we arrive at _Blanyan_. From _Kottin_ flows the river _Elb_, which takes its name about five miles below that place, and is there scarce navigable. As we travel, we keep it in sight on the right hand, and the woods still on the left.

November XXI.

Two miles and a half from _Branyan_ carry us to _Oval_, thro an open arable country, with a continued tract of woods on our left hand. In the midway we bait at the poor town of _Bohaimsbrodt_. But the day following for two miles and a half we pass thro a pleasant grove of birch and pine, and afterwards thro open ploughed feilds to _Prague_.

November xxiii.

His Excellency staying this day at _Prague_, I took that opportunity of viewing every thing I could of that noble city, which is thought to be the largest in Germany. It is inclosed with one intire wall, two third parts of which are regularly divided into curtains and bastions; but the remaining third is old and defenceless. Tho indeed the whole town is commanded by ascending ground, that no fortification can make it long defensible. The _Muldaw_, a large and rapid river, divides it into two parts, which are again joined by a fair and stately bridge of stone, seventeen hundred feet long and thirty five broad, supported by twenty four arches. Both parts of the city are adorned with great variety of magnificent buildings, the most remarkable of which I visited in this order.

Adjoining to the _Star_ inn, where his Excellency lodged, is the new convent of Irish _Cordeliers_; and in the same neighbourhood are two seminaries, one called that of the _Archbishop_, and the other that of _St. Norbert_, patron of this kingdom; both which profess academical learning, but in societies distinct from the university of the place.

Hence the way leads us to the townhouse, a large and stately building, which at one corner has a piece of clock work, giving the motions of the seven planets. On one side of this opens a fair piazza, with two curious pieces of workmanship. The first of these is a statue of the _B. Virgin_ trampling on the _Dragon_, erected on a stone pillar, on the pedestal of which are four _Angels_ defeating the like venomous monsters. This implies a triumphant declaration of her immaculate conception, and imitates that work before observed at _Vienna_. The second curiosity is a fountain of carved marble, with a basin of twelve sides, on which are cut very beautifully the twelve signs of the _Zodiac_.

From hence we pass to a college of Jesuits, a noble and spatious building. The church is a fine fabric, and prodigiously rich; the cloister large, and adorned with agreable pictures; among the rest are large tables divided into little squares, containing the short history and pourtraiture of the eminent persons of their order for preaching, missions, and conversions, among whom are a great number of English.

The same way leads us to the bridge above mentioned, and thence to another college of the Jesuits; but the third, and most splendid of this order, is in that part of _Prague_ called the new city, which we had not an opportunity of seeing.

We now turn to the right hand, and in an eminent part of the city are brought to the Emperor’s palace, old and irregular in outward appearance, but within its precincts is the old cathedral church, an handsome Gothic building of the year 923, as appears by an inscription on the chief altar. The stateliness of the old architecture, with the richness as well as beauty of the modern ornaments, make it a venerable pile. They have here a picture of the _Virgin_, which is pretended to be of _St. Luke’s_ hand. At the gate entering into this palace there is another in sight, which is the residence of the Archbishop.