Part 11

As to the temper and disposition of the inhabitants, they appear cordial and hospitable, drink almost continually, and eat plentifully, are unpolite but importunate in their civility, and even the vulgar sort usually speak Latin; they are of a robust constitution, and principally the _Siculians_, who have likewise a fierce and stately mein. Their habit is a short waistcoat made very close to the body[130], and sleeves with flaps to them, that come over the backs of their hands. Their breeches are likewise close to their thighs, and from thence continued down in the form of a stocking to their feet. But on their legs they commonly wear yellow or red boots, to which are constantly fixed spurs, often three inches long. Over their waistcoat, when they go abroad, they throw a loose but short fur vest, which is either embroidered, or adorned with silver loops, on each side before. The habit of the women, who for the most part are beautiful and courteous, is a close narrow bodice, and from thence petticoats, as usual with us in England; but over their arms they wear loose linen sleeves, resembling those of a bishop’s rochet. Their head dress is low, and among those of the better sort richly adorned with pretious stones; much resembling some old English pictures, particularly those of _Henry_ the eighth’s wives. They likewise wear over their shoulders the same sort of fur vest, as the men; but the inferior sort are usually drest, when abroad, in a long and loose black mantle, reaching from their shoulders down to the ground, and all round gathered into deep and numberless folds, not unlike the gowns worn by the islanders in the _Archipelago_. Maids likewise wear a black ring of velvet on their head, which they call a crown, and resembles the figure of an hat without brims. With regard to matrons, their law formerly admitted no proof of adultery, unless under the eye witness of twenty four persons at least; which in a virtuous age was an egregious testimony to the chastity of their women, but in a vitious one must needs prove too great an encouragment to that heinous sin. The Hungarians and Siculians have an odd fashion of shaving their head round the lower part, and leaving the hair at the top, which afterwards they tie into a knot, and let it hang over one or other of their temples. This custom they might possibly have received of old from the Sicambrians (who once built the city _Sicambria_, and settled a colony there) since they were antiently famed for the like manner of knotting of their hair[131]. We may further observe a certain infelicity of Transylvania, as well as the adjoining parts of Hungary, in persuading themselves at least, that they are infested with witchcraft. For women of all ages are yearly executed for that crime, and this commonly upon evidence of their having threatned mischief to their neighbours, their children, goods, cattle, or other effects, and some correspondent effect, which has seemed afterwards to happen. In the Saxon seats of Transylvania they often put them to that vulgar trial of water; and I have heard it avowed by those, who have declared themselves to have been eye witnesses, that some suspected persons could never sink below the surface of the water, when others immediately subsided to the bottom[132]. And in such cases the poor afflicted, tortured, and now perhaps distracted person, confesses the indictment, and then without the least repreive is committed to the faggot. But as ignorant places have been always reputed most subject to witchcraft, this very well suits the state of Transylvania; where every petty district is the seat of its own judicature, and the power of life and death is consequently lodged in illiterate and superstitious persons.

June ii.

But it is now time to proceed on our journey, in which one Hungarian mile and a half carried us to _Szekhelyhíd_, where his Excellency lodged in the house of a popish prelate, by name _Joannes Smitz_, of the order of the _Praemonstratenses_, a gentile and agreable person. In his parlour, where he had an altar and crucifix, I observed over the former a profane picture of the _Holy Trinity_, representing an _Old Man_, with his _Son_ sitting betwixt his legs, and at the son’s feet the _Holy Ghost_ in the shape of a _dove_.

June iii.

Three Hungarian miles and a half farther brought us this day to _Debrecyn_, thro a rich soil, not destitute of wood, nor water; the latter of which is plentifully found in this countrey, as also in Transylvania and Valachia, by reason of its frequent and extended lakes; tho fountains are scarce any where to be observed. This city has lately obtained the privilege of being _libera et regia_ from the Emperor, in consideration of its late grievous oppressions between the Turkish and German forces; since which, like other free cities, it is governed by its own judge, senate, and commonalty. It is large and populous, and sets up for the bulwark of the reformed church in Hungary; which character it maintains by its large and well disciplined college of almost two hundred students, under the care of two eminent professors; one of divinity, named _Johannes Koes_, who is likewise bishop or superintendent of the province; and the other of philosophy, whose name is _Michael Vaári_. As this college is kept in good repair, so the students are allowed their constant diet, and the professors receive their salary, at the sole charge of the city. There are likewise two spatious churches, served by three able and learned pastors, _Thomas Veresedgyhazi_, _Michael Rapoti_, and _Stephanus Patai_. The city is likewise furnished at the public charge with a capacious and well stored dispensary.

Before his Excellency approached this place, he was complimented by several messengers from the mayor, who commands the militia here, then by the judge, senators, and others; and at length by the bishop, professors, pastors, and scholars. With this retinue his Excellency entered the city, which was orderly lined with arms as far as his lodgings. These were appointed for him in the house of one _Stephanus Dobozi_, a rich, generous, and learned gentleman; who among other public designs is now undertaking to print a new version of the Hungarian _Bible_, to be distributed among the reformed Christians of that kingdom.

June iv.

This being _Corpus Christi_ day, his Excellency continued at _Debrecyn_; at which time I took the opportunity of visiting the bishop, professors, and pastors of the town, the first of whom presented me with an handkerchief of the Hungarian fashion. I was introduced to them by one _Paul Gyongyóssi_, who met us in this place from a neighbouring cure. He had lately traveled into England, and resided sometime in _Glocester Hall, Oxford_, where he was known to my brother of dear memory. But in his return home thro _Vienna_ his books were seized, to the value of five hundred florins, by Cardinal _Colonicza_, archbishop of _Strigonium_; on which account he now solicited the favour and interest of his Excellency. He presented me with the _Canones Ecclesiae Reformatae Hungariae_.

June v.

This morning the judge and magistrates of _Debrecyn_ presented his Excellency with a gentile sword, and two small vessels of the best _Tokái_ wine. And after traveling one Hungarian mile and a half thro a dead extended plain, void of tree or shrub, we came to _Ujvaros_. Here I first took notice of the Hungarian sheep, which are distinguished from most others by their horns, which are long, straight, and twisted; also by their wool, which is exceeding coarse.

June vi.

Three Hungarian miles thro the same level and naked plain brought us this day to _Csege_, which is a pass over the _Tibiscus_. In our way hither we had in view on the right hand, at the distance of about five miles, the celebrated mountain of _Tokái_, in compass about ten Hungarian miles, and renowned for its generous wines. At the aforesaid _Csege_ we ferry over the _Tibiscus_ in two large flat bottomed boats, thence we travel for some time with the river on our right hand, and then strike into the plain to _Csat_, a large village about one Hungarian mile from _Csege_, where we fix our quarters.

June vii.

His Excellency stayed this day at _Csat_, at which time I had some conversation with the minister, _Stephanus Szirák_, formerly a traveler in England. Here I took notice of the fair, white, and stately cattle of Hungary; and walked in the feilds, to enjoy a more distinct prospect of the mountain _Tokái_.

June viii.

We proceed one Hungarian mile and a half thro the same plain to _Proszlo_, which is situated on a large and diffused lake, supplied by the _Tibiscus_, into which it empties itself. In our way hither, we left at a near distance on our right hand the city _Agria_, and the mountains denominated from thence.

June ix.

We move one Hungarian mile and a half forward in the same plain, and at the same distance from the mountains of _Agria_, to _Alány_. Before diner his Excellency with a retinue went an English mile from hence, in order to visit a new country house and garden belonging to the worthy General _Glychensberg_; who by donation from the Emperor possesses great part of this village, as likewise of that where we lodged last night. I had here an occasion to observe the Hungarian houses under ground, having unawares like to have dropt into a chimney. We took notice likewise of a _plica Polonica_ in the hair of his Excellency’s landlord; who told us, that it being once cut off by his wife, he became perfectly blind for three months, and did not recover his sight, till the _plica_ was grown out and formed again. The same thing is common to most horses in this country.

June x.

From _Alány_ we go on this day two Hungarian miles to _Arokszalles_, thro the same plain, the soil of which is as black as coal, and in most places overrun with weeds and marshes for want of tillage. In the midway we cross the small river _Both_, by which is a posthouse of the same name. _Arokszalles_ is a popish village, the first of that sort we had seen in Hungary. It belongs to the Prince of _Newburg_, Grand Master of the _Teutonic_ order, who has bought lately of the Emperor a large compass of ground on both sides the _Tibiscus_ for a million of florins. From our quarters we have in view to the right of our road, at the foot of a pleasant tract of mountains, the city _Gyongyossi_, lately taken from the Protestants (as they told us at _Debrecyn_) by the injuries of the Jesuits and other Romanists.

June xi.

We continue our journey one Hungarian mile to _Hatwan_, thro the same plain, along the foss of an antient _Roman_ camp. The hills of _Gyongyóssi_ are still at a near distance on our right hand, in which four Hungarian miles from _Arokszalles_ is the famous gold mine of _Kremnytz_, with others of silver, iron, and other minerals, in the same neighbourhood. _Hatwan_ was lately a walled city, and is now inhabited by Romanists, being the property of the Prince of _Solmes_, grand master to the King of the _Romans_. The Emperor constantly employs five hundred labourers in the mines of _Kremnytz_, tho of late years they are said to fail. At _Hatwan_, as in all Hungary, I observed the method of burying their corn in holes under ground, as _Hirtius_ remarks of the Africans[133].

June xii.

At _Hatwan_ we immediately cross the small river _Zagywa_, and thence proceed one Hungarian mile and half thro a pleasant variety of woods and pastures, valleys and hills, to _Kerepes_; where at a neat German house his Excellency staid to breakfast, and then went forward the same length of way thro a naked, tho not so level a plain, to _Pest_. At his entry here he is saluted by the canon from the opposite castle of _Buda_, and lodged at the _Fountain_ inne. _Pest_ is now a small but compact city, intirely built out of the ruins, to which it was reduced by the two late sieges of _Buda_. Its antient wall, with the battlements and bastions, is still intire, and incloses it in the figure of an half moon, terminating on the banks of the _Danube_, which completes the remaining circuit of the city. There are still extant three or four _minarées_ of Turkish _mosques_, now devoted to Christian use. But what gives just offence both to Turks and Christians is a new pillar, erected in the market place, and bearing on its top a large stone sculpture of the _Trinity_; a figure as common, as it is scandalous, in Germany.

June xiii.

This day his Excellency remained here, which gave Mr. Paget and myself an opportunity of passing over to _Buda_ on a flying bridge, which is maintained by the city _Pest_. The famous city of _Buda_ is the capital of Hungary, and was the seat of its Kings till the year fifteen hundred twenty nine, when by treachery it fell into the hands of _Solymán_ the _Great_; since which it was several times attempted by the Christian arms, but never successfully, till the year sixteen hundred sixty eight. And it yet remains in the same condition, in which that terrible siege had left it, with regard to its fortifications; but the private houses, especially those of the _Rascian_ and _Water Town_, are again handsomely rebuilt. That, which is called the _Upper Town_, is likewise begining to be reinhabited, but not equally with the other two. The situation of the whole city lies in the following manner. From the banks of the _Danube_, which here runs N. W. and S. E. there arises a steep and oblong hill, the length of about half a mile, and the hight of about two hundred paces, on which stands, what is called the _Upper Town_. This on the N. W. end has that famous castle, which was the palace of the Hungarian Kings; and from thence the walls and other fortifications are continued round the town. On both ends of the hill are two small valleys, each of which has a large suburb; that on the N. W. end called the _Rascian_, and that on the S. E the _Water Town_. The latter of these is larger, and much better built; and extends itself not only in the valley above mentioned, but likewise betwixt the _Danube_ and a great part of the hill, on which the wall and _Upper Town_ is built. Just beyond the _Rascian Town_ is a steep and sharp rocky hill, which in case of a siege must needs annoy the castle; and along the backside of the city wall is extended, at a nearer distance, another rising ground, which must likewise gall that side of the fortification. These therefore the Imperialists must possess with proper forts, whenever they undertake to repair the wall and castle of _Buda_; the present remains of which were shewn us this morning by the lieutenant of the ordnance, the most remarkable whereof were these which follow. The hall of the royal palace, in which the carved windows, chimney pieces, and other decorations, shewed the work of an excellent hand; and were embelished, among other devises, with the arms of _Matthias Corvinus_. The several canons, mortar pieces, bombs, and other artillery, which make the present ammunition of the castle. The two breaches, one entered by the Bavarians, and the other by the Imperialists, when they took the place. The wooden gate, hewn at the bottom by the Imperialists, which action gave the last rout to the Turks. The stone arched chamber, which they maintained to the last; tho the Bavarians had been many days lodged in the next adjoining apartment, and nothing but a single wall remained betwixt the two enemies. The well and capacious cistern, sufficient to afford water for that numerous Turkish garrison, which at first consisted of twenty four thousand men. What else occurs observable in this place, is first the prospect, which we took from the _Water Town_ of old _Buda_, or _Sicambria_ of the Romans, about an English mile from hence, up the stream of the river. And secondly, the famous sulphureous baths, exactly opposite to the city _Pest_, which are supplied by a plentiful hot fountain, that runs from the steep rocky hill before mentioned in the neighbourhood of the _Rascian Town_.

At midday we were invited to diner by the administrator, or chief civil magistrate of the place. By his office he is president of the _camera Budensis_, which consists of twelve officers, and enjoys great revenues, as well as an entire jurisdiction for many miles round the city. His Imperial Majesty has about fourteen hundred men in Garrison at _Buda_ and _Pest_, under General _Pefferhoft_, who was now gone to demolish the fortifications of _Erla_; it being the Emperor’s design to divest this country of all its lesser forts, which at this juncture might be a refuge to any rebellious subjects. The whole country of Hungary to this place is a black and rich soil, without one stone to be observed, except in towns; and abounds with lakes. The wine of _Buda_ exactly resembles that of _Bourdeaux_, and for these two last years, by an agent of the Earl of _Nottingham_, has began to be imported into England, by the way of _Breslaw_.

June xiv.

Early this morning we depart from _Buda_, when his Excellency was again saluted by the guns of the castle. Three Hungarian miles thro a rich, woody, and well watered country bring us to _Biéske_; a village where the Protestant are most numerous, but were nevertheless deprived of the parish church last year by the Romanists.

June xv.

Three more Hungarian miles carry us this day to _Koes_, thro a continued wood, wherein are observable many curious trees, herbs, and flowers, particularly the _fraxinella_; to say nothing of the damask roses, hyacinths, _barbaréae_, _lilia convallium_, and some others, obvious in our whole road thro Hungary.

June xvi.

From _Koes_, where his Excellency lodged the last night, in an house of Count _Estzerhazi_, Palatin of Hungary, it is one Hungarian mile to _Igmand_, at which we arrive by eight a clock this morning. And one mile from thence toward the right hand we stop to see the city and fort of _Komora_. In a post calash we arrive on the banks of the _Danube_ by ten a clock, and passing over in a boat enter the city, which is seated on the point of the island _Schut_, where it is washed on one side by the _Danube_ itself; and on the other by that branch of it, which takes the name of _Wag_, from that river falling into it not far above the city _Komora_. The extreme point of this island is possessed by the castle and fort, consisting of four bastions, and an angle at the farther end, which represents the figure of a tortoise. Before the gate and drawbridge there is a place of arms, and before that another strait fortification with two bastions and an half moon, added by the present Emperor. This was the last bulwark against the Turks, before the success of the last war, and is called the _Virgin Fort_, in token of its having never been taken by the enemy. To perpetuate the memory of this, the statue of a virgin is erected in one angle of that bastion, which is on the left hand at the entrance of the place. After this view of the castle we content ourselves with a slighter view of the town, which appears neat and compact; and by two a clock return to his Excellency’s quarters at _Igmand_, the whole way lying over a green, naked, and level plain. In the castle of _Komora_ I found the three following inscriptions, two of them in Latin, and the third in Greek, which are cut upon stone coffins.

D. M. M. VAL. VALERIANI LEG. IIII FL. VIXIT AN. XLII ET M. VAL. VLPIO EQ. PV BL. FIL. VIXIT AN. VIII SIMV L CONDITIS VLPIA PARA TIANE MARITO ET FILIO ET VLPIA VALERIA FILIA HEREDES F. C.

D. M. MEMORIAE IVLI AE EMERITAE QVAE VI XIT AN I̶I̶I̶ VALERIA MASO LENIA FILIAE PIISSIMAE

ΠΑΛΜΥΡΙ ΕΥΨΥΧΕΙ ΜΕΤΑ ΠΑΤΡΟΣ

June xvii.

Our next stage, which was three Hungarian miles, brought us from _Igmand_ to _Rab_, thro a level country, and well cultivated. Half an hour before we enter the town, his Excellency is met by a troop of _Hussars_ well mounted, and each man carrying a small flag in his hand. _Rab_, which is the proper government of the Prince of _Baden_, is pleasantly seated at the confluence of the rivers _Rab_ and _Rabnitz_, which unite near the walls of the castle, and then in one stream immediately fall into the _Danube_. The castle is large, and well fortified with seven bastions, four cavaliers, and proportionable outworks. It contains within an ample space of ground, possessed with houses, and divided into streets, which make the best part of the city, the rest being more scattered and diffused on both sides of the _Rabnitz_. It is now about a century, since this place was taken from the Turks by a stratagem of Count _Schaurtzenburg_, who applying a petard to one of the gates in the night, at one stroke blew open the great iron door, which flew many paces within the town, and is now kept as a memorial of the fact in the cathedral church. The Turks marched in the sight of this garrison to the siege of _Vienna_, and received several shot from thence; and at their return, had the Imperialists of this place known their defeat, they might have intercepted their passage, by cutting down the bridges of the _Rab_.

June xviii.

His Excellency staying this day at _Rab_, I took the opportunity of visiting _Stephanus Morsai_, the reformed minister of the place. And about ten a clock Mr. Stepney, her Majesty’s Envoy Extraordinary at _Vienna_, with the young Earl of Bridgwater, and his brother Mr. Egerton, came to _Rab_ to meet my Lord Paget, and welcome him into these parts.

June xix.

This day, thro frequent villages and fruitful feilds, we continue our journey two Hungarian miles to _Hungrisch Altenburg_, a small town with fair buildings, enclosed with a wall, and seated on the river _Leyta_, which at the distance of half a mile falls into the _Danube_. Here Mr. Stepney, my Lord Paget, and some others proceed directly to _Vienna_.

June xx.

Three Hungarian miles, thro a delicious and well tilled country, in sight of _Presburg_ castle, we proceed to _Pruck_; just at the entrance of which we cross the _Leyta_, and by that means pass out of _Hungary_ into _Austria_, of which _Pruck_ is the first town in this road. It is a considerable compact place, neatly built with an appearing magnificence, which they affect by building their houses high and uniform towards the street. It has a castle and a strong wall, tho not sufficient against the present art of war. In the market place is a pillar, that bears a profane image of the _Trinity_, the _Father_ in the figure of an old man, the _Son_ standing at his right hand, and the _Holy Ghost_ in the shape of a _dove_ hovering betwixt their heads. Here is an handsome convent of Augustin friars, and in the market place a new church not yet finished, which promises something both beautiful and magnificent.

June xxi.

This day, being Sunday, we continue at _Pruck_, when I took an occasion of walking by the banks of the _Leyta_, in pleasant and delightful meadows.

June xxii.

Four German miles from hence bring us to _Schweka_, a neat village near _Eberstorff_; where is a palace of the Emperor, and a large park, enclosed by the _Danube_ and the _Schweka_.

June xxiii.

By three in the afternoon his Excellency moves from hence, and in an hour and a half, at the distance of two German miles, happily arrives at _Vienna_; where he is lodged in the suburbs, betwixt the _Caristhian_ gate and the _Favorita_, in a palace of Count _Sterembergh_. After the repose of a day or two his Excellency had a separate audience of the Emperor, and Empress, the Archduke _Carlo_, and the four Archdutchesses. And being visited by most of the nobility, courtiers, and ministers of the place, he afterwards took occasion of returning their respective visits.