Part 10

Before eleven a clock we again take up our quarters at _Visakna_, that is, _Saltzburg_, so called from the _salt mines_; which I visited this afternoon, in company with the minister of the place, _Joannes Nagy Borosnyai_ of the Helvetian confession. The salt is here dug, and cut into stones (as they call them) of a square figure, and about an hundred pound in weight. Being so prepared in the cavern, which at the bottom extends itself very wide in the manner of a dome, they are drawn up by cables, of which one winds round an adjoining machine drawn by four horses, and the other unwinds at the same time. The pit itself is square, lined within with planks, as far as the earthy soil reaches, and extending afterwards to the depth of about an hundred yards. These stones are afterwards laid up in magazines, to be transported on occasion by the _Maros_ into the _Danube_, and thence vended into Turkey or Germany for the use of the Emperor, who is the sole proprietor of all the natural mines, with which this province abounds. The above mentioned minister here gave me some _gemmae salis_, as pellucid as ordinary crystal. He is a man well learned, and has traveled into many countries, particularly England. At the same place I likewise received a present of some _specimina metallica_, namely gold, cinnabar, antimony, and others; which were sent me by a gentleman, named _Samuel Koloseri_, the Emperor’s general inspector of the Transylvanian mines.

May xix.

We depart hence for _Tsanad_ and arrive there before twelve a clock; from whence his Excellency designing for _Enyed_ by the way of _Balasfalva_, Mr. Montague, Mr. _Gangain_, and myself take this opportunity of steping out of the way to see _Alba Julia_, or _Wissenburg_. We therefore hire a post calash by five a clock in the afternoon, and it being distant three long Hungarian miles in dirty way, we scarce arrive there by twelve at night, having near the city crossed the _Maurusius_ over a wooden bridge. In our way thither we saw a gang of _Zingans_, or gypses, common in this and the neighbouring provinces, as well as Turkey.

May xx.

His Excellency continued his journey this day to _Balasfalva_; and in the morning we at _Abba Julia_ wait on the governor, Count _Banti_, a worthy and courteous protestant nobleman, but for many years weakened and tormented with the colic. We were conducted to him thro the room, where the _comitia totius Transylvaniae_ are now held; and where Count _Seau_, commissary for his Imperial Majesty, solicites the states for raising of subsidies, and proposes other orders to them from the court of _Vienna_. This done, we visit likewise Count _Seau_; who was so complaisant as to shew us the castle where he dwells, being a magnificent palace, and lately the residence of the princes of Transylvania. At the same time we viewed the large Calvinist church adjoining thereto, which is a lofty and stately fabric, but has suffered much from the Tartars, who defaced the fair monuments, and burnt the tower, in the year sixteen hundred and fifty eight. It is now fortified with a ditch and rampart, which is likewise usual all over Transylvania. The above mentioned monuments are of _Joannes Corvinus_, commonly called _Huniades_; of Queen _Isabella_, and her son _Ladislaus_; of _Sigismund_, and _George Ragotzi_, together with the famous _Gabriel Bethlen_. The same morning we paid a visit to the bishop of the reformed church in Transylvania, who resides here, and is likewise pastor of the place, by name _Stephanus Vespreni_. He is an old man, seems decayed in his parts, and is troubled with a palsy in his tongue. With him we saw the professor of the _Schola Albensis_, which in the year sixteen hundred seventy two was translated hither from _Patak_ in Hungary. He is a learned, curious, and laborious man, teaches divinity, natural philosophy, the tongues, and mathematics; has traveled into England and other countries, and is a great admirer of the English; for which reason his study is full of our books, and he both writes, and speaks, and even teaches our language once a week to his scholars. His name is _Kaposi Samuel_, and was made _S. Theologiae Doctor_ by a _diploma_ from the Prince of Orange. These visits performed, we repair to Count _Banti’s_ to diner, where we were honoured with a splendid feast; the governor keeping his chamber. There sat at table the Lady governess, who is of the family of _Bethlen_, with Countess _Bethlen Samuel_, Count _Bethlen Nicolas_ chancellor of the states of Transylvania, Count _Apór_ treasurer, Count _Holler_ president of the states (the two last papists) together with Count _Telchi_, _Joannes Sacks_ the _Judex regius Cibiniensis_, with Count _Seau_, and some others. After diner we spent some time with professor _Kaposi_, and at night supped with Count _Seau_.

May xxi.

His Excellency staid this whole day at _Balasfalva_; and we the morning at _Alba Julia_, which was antiently called _Apulum_[119], where we imployed ourselves in viewing some Roman sculptures, and copying the three following inscriptions.

I. O. M. ET DIIS PENATIBVS SCAVRIANVS

MINERVAE TIB. JVLIVS NOVIA NVS II ... LEG. POSVIT

PRO SALVTE DO MINI NOSTRI SANCTISSIMI AN TONINI PII AVGVS TI NYMPHIS NOVIS[120] SACRVM RVFRI VS[121] SVLPICIA ... LEG. XIII. G ... ANIO

At midday we dined with Count _Seau_, and by two a clock taking leave of the governor, we set forward in a calash for _Enyed_[122], two Hungarian miles distant from hence, where we arrived before seven, the road lying all the way near the banks of the _Maurusius_.

May xxii.

We take a calash this morning, and proceed about an hour from _Enyed_ to meet his Excellency, at the place where he crossed the _Maurusius_ by flat boats; which done, we wait on him back to _Enyed_, and there arrive about one a clock. After diner I visited the school and college of this place, which is reputed the most flourishing of those, that belong to the reformed Calvinist church in Transylvania. It has three professors, one of philosophy, _Stephanus Kolosvari_, who has traveled into England; another of divinity, _Stephanus Engedi_, a learned man, who gave me a popish book, concerning the Emperor’s treatment of the reformed churches in Hungary; and a third of the Greek tongue, logic, and history, _Fr. Pariz-Papa_, a physician, who presented me with some printed tracts of his own, and a manuscript _Itinerary_ of Dr. _Basire_ prebendary of Durham, left by him in _Alba Julia_, where he professed divinity during the late usurpation in England.

May xxiii.

We proceed three Hungarian miles from _Enyed_ to _Therda_, where we arrive about one a clock, and find it a dirty ill built town, but remarkable for its salt pits. It has two Calvinist churches, with one appropriated to the Unitarians. The town stands upon the _Aranyas_, antiently the _Chrysolas_, in which the _Zingans_ find gold dust, principally after rain.

May xxiv.

It being Whitsunday, his Excellency halted this day, and in his lodgings had divine service and a sermon. After diner we visit the salt pits, which altogether resemble those of _Visakna_, except that the salt seems somewhat clearer and stronger. Returning we find the following Roman inscription.

ISIDI ET SERAPI C. IVL. ANN ISONVS ... LEG. V. M. HO. ET FL. APO LINARIA ... EIVS V. L. S

May xxv.

We proceed three Hungarian miles to _Clausenburg_, the _Zeugma_ of the antients, by the Hungarians called _Kolosvar_, and in Latin _Claudiopolis_. Here Governor _Banti_ met my Lord half a mile out of the town, and treated him at diner; after which taking leave, he presented him with a set of six fine coach horses. It is a fair city with a broad and straight street; but still retains on the houses and churches the marks of a dreadful fire, which about five years since almost entirely consumed it. It is seated upon the first branch of the river _Samos_, and is entirely surrounded with an antient thick wall, on the inside of which I was shewn the two following inscriptions, the latter whereof has the characters beautifully cut.

FORTVNAE AVG. V L P. MASCV LINVS VTE. EX SIGNIF. LEG. V. M. TE EC. COL. AP. PRO SA. SVA. TE. SVOR. PL

D. M. M. AVREL ... PAPIA .. AVG. COL. N. AP[123]. VIXIT ANNIS LX AVRELIA BONA CONIVX MA RITO ER. H. CIENO ... VM[124] CV RAVIT

The Unitarians, who are one of the sects received in Transylvania, have here established their principal seat. I conversed with one of them, _Stephanus Stanizlo_, professor of philosophy, with whom I visited their _plebanus_, or chief pastor, and saw their church and college. I likewise visited the Calvinist pastor, as also their church and college, where I saw _M. B. Nemethi_ their professor of philosophy, _Sam. Nemethi_ the divinity professor being absent. In several public places of the city I observed antient dates of time, particularly over one of the gates, where the year was marked, with these characters, [Illustration] that is 1477; and over the Unitarian college thus, [Illustration], which is 1476[125]. Here Count _Bethlen’s_ commission ending, his Excellency is provided for by Baron _Vesselini_.

May xxvi.

We stay this day at _Clausenburg_. The next we proceed two Hungarian miles to _Erdicurestúr_, where I lodge in a poor Valach house. And the day following we make the like progress thro woods and narrow vales to _Balashaza_, upon the river _Almasch_.

May xxix.

Two more Hungarian miles thro the like way bring us to _Zilak_, a reformed Calvinist village, where I visited the chief pastor, _Stephanus Foris Debreezeni_. Within half an hour of this place we passed certain mountains very woody, but not exceeding high, which part Transylvania from Hungary; after which we now enter into those parts of Hungary, which lately gave part of his title to the prince of Transylvania.

May xxxi.

Passing two Hungarian miles thro a country more open and well improved, we arrive at _Somlyo_; in which there is an old palace, once a seat of residence for the kings of Hungary. Here the guards and commissary is again changed, _Franciscus Trantzeni_, an Hungarian gentleman, now taking that charge. As we continued in this town the following day, I had an opportunity of conversing with the minister, whose name is _Zovány_.

June i.

We set forward three Hungarian miles to _Margarita_, and in the way cross the _Krasna_, near which are the limits that terminate the parts of Hungary. The soil is here luxuriantly rich, well varied with pasture and intervening woods, and everywhere adorned with damask roses, growing wild on short shrubs. Part of my time was here employed in discoursing with the minister, _Johannes Banki_. But having now passed thro _Transylvania_, as well as the parts of _Hungary_ subject to the same government, it is here proper to recollect some general observations relating to this province.

_Transylvania_, which for many years had been tributary to the Turks, and consequently under the protection of that empire, which still allowed them the choice and government of their own princes, was in the year 1687, under the conduct of the Duke of _Lorrain_, subjected to the arms of the Emperor; and thereupon by capitulation they resigned themselves to the Germans, under whom they have since continued, tho as yet the Emperor has assumed no distinct title from thence. He has ordinarily in garrison here about twelve regiments, which since the peace of _Carlowítz_ serve rather to curb the inhabitants, than to awe the neighbouring Turk. To this end they are now preparing a strong citadel in _Hermanstadt_, and designing others in proper places, on pretence of charges due to these forts and the standing militia. The Emperor exacts yearly severe taxes, of which they generally complain, as being four times more than was exacted by the Turk. For whereas they then paid the yearly tribute and exaction of about two hundred thousand _floreni Rhenenses_, there is this year particularly demanded from them, in the present assembly of the government at _Alba Julia_, the sum of one million forty thousand six hundred, which is charged for the following particulars. The

_Quantum militare_, 750,000. _Ad fortalitia_, 100,000. _Debitum principis Duca_[126], 65,600. _Bonificationes superoneratis_, 60,000. _Ad salarium camellariae_, 15,000. _Inevitabiles extraordinariae expensae_ 50,000.

These subsidies are demanded at the assembly in the Emperor’s name, by his commissary, Count _Seau_; and the care of levying and raising it is incumbent on the governor, the chancellor, the treasurers, the _assessores tabulae regiae_, with other officers and members of the assembly. Thus the civil government of the province is committed to the Transylvanian nobility, distinguished by the officers abovementioned; but the military government is, in the hands of General _Rabutin_, who holds the province to a rigid and exact obedience.

Transylvania is in the hands of three distinct people. First the _Szekeli_, which are otherwise corruptly wrote _Sciculi_, _Siculi_, or _Scytuli_[127]. The second are the _Saxones_. And the third are the _Hungari_. The first and third of these speak the same Hungarian language, and are _Hunns_ of the same original, only settled in this country at different times. The _Saxons_ speak intirely the German Saxon language, from which nation they are a colony, and settled here under _Geysa_ the second King of Hungary.

They have each of them their distinct laws, customs, and privileges, and are severally divided after this manner. First the _Szekeli_ into seven _szeks_, namely: _Meros-szék_, _Udvarhel-szék_, _Harom-szék_, _Kesdi Orba Sepsi-szék_, _Csik-szék_, _Gyorgy-szék_, and _Arangus-szék_. Over each of these seats preside so many captains; and being a warlike robust people, still retaining the ferity of the Scythians, of which the whole body of the _Hunni_ was at first a colony, they have been always exempted from taxes and duties to the government, except only the service of war upon occasion under their respective captains. But of late the Emperor has persuaded them to submit to the like taxes and duties, with all other his Transylvanian subjects. On account of their not holding their lands of the government, there is a peculiar custom obtaining among them, that in defect of heirs their estate escheats not to the government, but to the next neighbour.

The _Saxons_ have in like manner their seven seats alloted from their first settlement, namely: _Szerdaky-szék_, _Szeben-szék_, _Brassoy-szék_, _Medyes-szék_, _Segyvar-szék_, _Bestereze-szék_, and _Erdovidek-szék_. Each of these seats have their capital city, called _Regia et libera civitas_. Over this city, and the seat or district belonging to it, presides a _judex regius_, called in their language, _konings rickter_. But the authority and prerogative of the _Judex Cibiniensis_, that is of _Hermanstadt_, extends itself over the several Saxon seats; except that he of _Brassow_ or _Cronstadt_ pretends in many cases an exemption, which has been allowed, because of its too great distance from the tribunal of _Szeben_, or _Hermanstadt_. Besides the authority of this judge, there is a subordinate government in each city by a senate, which ordinarily consists of about sixteen, and a centumvirate or commonalty, tho it seldom contains a complete hundred. Each in their several districts have the _jus gladii_, and all other prerogatives of an intire jurisdiction.

The third and richer part of Transylvania, possessed by the _Hungarians_, is supposed and called the seat of the only Transylvanian nobility; and accordingly it is divided into seven _comitatus_, or residences, of its several courts, namely: The _comitatus Huniadensis_, _Albensis_, _Thordensis_, _Claudiopolitanus_, _Interior et Exterior Zolnokiensis_, _Doboczensis_, and _Krasnaiensis_. Now each of these counties has four _comites_, of which two are called _supremi_, and two _inferiores_; in whose hands, together with other nobles under them, remain the whole jurisdiction and possession of their respective counties; the other inhabitants being not only tenants, but subjects, as they call them, and in some manner slaves to their respective nobles, to whom they ordinarily owe the work of three, and sometimes of more days in the week.

Besides these, the _Valachi_ are every where in great numbers intermixted among the Transylvanian nations, but have no jurisdiction or dominion of their own; and therefore they remain as nourishers of cattle, and in that service slaves and subjects to the rest. And not only _Valachs_[128], but likewise (tho in lesser numbers) there are found up and down in Transylvania, Rascians, Muscovites, Armenians, Jews, and others.

Those called the received religions in Transylvania, that is, those who above the space of an age have obtained the protection of their princes under oath, and of the Emperor under articles upon their late subjection, are four; the Roman Catholic; the Lutheran; the Calvinist, which is here called peculiarly the Reformed; and the Unitarian. The first of these is more frequent in _Szekulia_, but yet not so prevalent as to possess even a tenth part of all Transylvania. The second, or Lutheran, is common to all the Saxon nation in this province. The third flourishes in _Szekulia_, and the _comitatus Hungarici_. The fourth prevails here and there likewise in the same countries, but those who profess it are not so numerous in either. However they have a flourishing college at _Clausenberg_, together with a large church; tho neither for beauty, nor the number of its communicants, equal to that of the Calvinist confession. These several religions are well known, and distinguished by their faith and principles, all over Europe. I shall therefore only say this concerning the discipline of the three last, that their several parishes collected into distinct dioceses are subject to their respective seniors; and these seniors, in their order, are likewise subject to a provincial bishop, who has his court, in which he judges matrimonial and other spiritual causes, and has also the sole power of ordaining, as likewise of calling and presiding over their yearly synod. And to this synod there is adjoined a consistory, which is in the nature of an upper house, and a council to the bishop.

The Lutheran churches are in many places splendid, adorned with organs and pictures, and little differing from the form of our larger churches, except that the altar is immoveable, and built of stone, and sometimes too profusely painted. Their worship consists of forms of prayers, then hymns, after these lessons and sermons, and lastly prayers and concluding hymns. The worship of the Unitarians exactly corresponds with that of the Calvinists. These latter have sermons twice a week, besides Sundays, as also morning and evening service throughout the week, at which appear large and devout congregations in many places. Their service is a metre psalm, a prayer from the pulpit, and then concludes with another psalm. They have a form of prayer, and an injunction of their bishop to make use of no other; but the custom of most ministers has introduced the use of their own premeditated devotions, and accordingly the people begin to disesteem those, who confine themselves to the form. The Lutherans, Calvinists, and Unitarians live peaceably with one another; but are not admitted to each others communion of Christ’s body, without a special declaration of conformity. The Lutherans in some places consecrate a wafer, and in other places leaven bread. They likewise have auricular confession, but abuse it not, as the Papists. Their main difference from the Calvinists consists in their avowed corporeal ubiquitarian presence. Among other known tenets of the Unitarians, by which they take away the force of the Christian sacraments, tho they generally use infant baptism not to give scandal to the Calvinists, yet they rather wish to delay it till the age of twelve years or upwards, and often practice accordingly.

These three protestant religions remain as yet in the undisturbed profession of their faith. But upon several late encroachments of the Jesuits, and other priests, in confidence of the popish government, to which they are subject; upon the withdrawing of the tithes usually paid to the protestant ministers from the salt mines, and now given to popish monks; and lastly upon the care, which is taken by the court of Vienna, to supply all offices of the province with papist ministers: upon these several accounts, I say, the whole reformed people of Transylvania, especially the Calvinists, begin to be under great apprehensions, and from the governor to the meanest gentleman, earnestly embraced this occasion of recommending their cause to the good services of his Excellency at the Imperial court; after which they implored the prayers and good wishes of the church of England, and in many places took a solemn melancholy leave of us, as if they were just entering upon a martyrdom.

The religion of the Valachs, Muscovites, Armenians, Rascians, and others, is that of their respective nations in their proper seats and countries. And it may be farther noted in relation to the religion of Transylvania, that as in Hungary, so here likewise, the Jesuits, who were before excluded by a positive article, have now an express liberty of entering and setling in this province. Nor can I omit to remark the great and blameable facility both of the Calvinists, and Lutherans, in matters of divorce.

After the religion of Transylvania, the natural soil of the country falls under consideration; which is luxuriantly rich, well cultivated, full of inhabitants, and conveniently distinguished with a sufficient quantity of wood, hills, and water. The surface of the earth is almost every where black, without the least stone to be observed in many places; and in several tracts so fertile, as not to require the advantage of dung, except only some parts of _Siculia_ where it is used. Besides all kinds of grain, which grow on the surface of the earth, within it abounds with veins of metals, minerals, and fossils of all sorts, particularly of gold; so that, as I was informed by the Emperor’s inspector of his mines, there was last year dug here to the value of twenty five thousand _zechins_. But among other fossils the native cinnabar is most rare, and the quicksilver which is here found to perfection. Salt is dug in several places, in the manner described above[129]; by which a large revenue accrues to the Emperor, to whom the property of all mines belongs. But in the mean time the people suffer in the price of this commodity; for since their late subjection to the Emperor, a stone of salt weighing about an hundred pounds can scarce be bought for three florins, whereas heretofore three stones of salt were sold for one florin. The money current in Transylvania is that of the Emperor, the _quarts_ of Poland, with some other coins. The reports related by some, who were eye witnesses, concerning diverse particles of gold found in the products of their vineyards, both here and about the celebrated mountain of _Tokái_, are very remarkable; of which I shall only mention these following. A piece of gold is said to have grown to a vine, instead of the green tendrel, by which it takes hold of the adjoining trees, or other substance that supports it. Pure gold was found in a grape, instead of its ordinary natural stone. Small gold drops were observed to adhere to the skin of a grape. And even an intire grape had been seen to consist of a perfect coat of gold.