CHAPTER XVII.

PALEMBANG, BANCA, AND SINGAPORE.

_May 4th._—At 7 A. M. I bade my host, the _controleur_, good-by, and began to glide down the Limatang for Palembang.

It was a cool, clear morning, and I enjoyed a fine view of Mount Dempo and the other high peaks near it. The current at first was so rapid that the only care of my men was, to keep the boat from striking on the many bars of sand and shingle. To do this, one stood forward and one aft, each provided with a long bamboo. We soon shot into a series of foaming rapids, and here the river bent so abruptly to the right and left that I thought we should certainly be dashed against a ragged, precipitous wall of rock that formed the right bank at that place, but we passed safely by, though the stern of the boat only passed clear by a few inches. My boat was about twenty feet long and five broad, flat-bottomed, and made of thin plank. Its central part was covered over with roof of atap, like the sampans in China, and on this was another sliding roof, which could be hauled forward to protect the rowers from rain or sunshine. From Lahat to the mouth of the Inem River relays of natives stood ready on the bank to guide our boat. This service they render the Dutch Government instead of paying a direct tax in money.

A short distance below Lahat, on the right bank, is a remarkably needle-like peak called Bukit Sirilo. Near this hill the Limatang makes a long bend to the north, and after we had left it two or three miles behind us I was quite surprised to find we had turned sharply round, and that it was now two or three miles before us. A short distance above the Sirilo we passed a fine outcropping of coal in the left bank. The government engineers have examined it, and found it to be soft and bituminous, but containing too large a proportion of incombustible matter to be of any great value. The strata dip toward the coast. The Resident of Tebing Tingi informed me that a similar coal is found on the Musi below that place. I believe that strata of recent limestone, containing corals, which I observed above Tebing Tingi, underlie this coal, and that it is, therefore, of very recent geological age. At 4 P. M. we came to Muara Inem, a large kampong of two thousand souls, on the Inem, at its juncture with the Limatang. Here I had the pleasure of meeting the _controleur_, whom I had met in the Minahassa, and who had been my fellow-traveller from Celebes to Java. During the latter third of my way down the Limatang to this point, the country is well peopled, and forms a marked contrast with the sparsely-populated regions through which I have been travelling since leaving Bencoolen.

At one kampong we saw three women in a small, flat-bottomed canoe, each sitting erect and paddling with both hands. In this way they crossed the river with a surprising rapidity, considering the simple apparatus they used. The readiness with which they paddled indicated that this is no very uncommon mode of crossing rivers in this land.

As the villages became larger and more frequent, more and more cocoa-nut trees appeared, and soon we passed several large bamboo rafts, bearing sheds that were filled with this fruit, and in one place two natives were seen quietly floating down the river on a great pile of these nuts in the most complacent manner. At first I expected to see the nuts fly off in all directions and the men disappear beneath the surface of the river, but as we came nearer I saw the nuts were fastened together in small bunches by strips of their own husks, and these bunches were bound into a hemispherical mass large enough to float the two men. The nuts on the raft were to be taken down to Palembang, where the cocoa-palms do not flourish. During the day we saw two or three large troops of monkeys. This is a very pleasant time to pass down these rivers, because they are now high, and instead of seeing only walls and bluffs of naked mud on either hand, the banks are covered with grass down to the water’s edge, and the bamboos and trees, that grow here in tropical luxuriance, lean over gracefully toward the rapid river, and lave the tips of their lowest branches in the passing current.

_May 5th._—The _controleur_ kindly took me in his large barge, with twenty men to paddle and two men to steer, some five miles up the Inem River to Lingga, where there is an outcropping of coal in the river bank. The coal found there is very light, almost as soft as charcoal, and evidently of a very recent geological age. A similar but somewhat better coal is found five or six miles farther up this river. At Karang Tingi, three miles up the river from Muara Inem, the rajah of that district gave me a bottle of petroleum, which is about as thick as tar, and, according to the examinations of the Dutch chemists, does not contain much paraffine, naphtha, nor material suitable for burning in lamps. It is found about six miles back from the river. At Karang Tingi we noticed a number of boys enjoying an odd kind of sport. They were sliding down the high slippery bank on their naked backs.

At Muara Inem the _controleur_ showed me a large garden filled with trees, from which the “palm-oil” is manufactured. It is a low palm, and the fruit is not much larger than the betel-nut. I understood him to say that it was the _Elais Guineensis_, and had been introduced from the Dutch possessions on the west coast of Africa. The oil is contained in the husk, and is used in manufacturing soap and candles.

_May 6th._—Very early this morning started with the _controleur_ down the Limatang in his barge, with twenty men. During last night the river rose here four or five feet, and the current is now unusually strong. From Muara Inem, to where it empties into the Musi, it is very crooked, constantly bending to the right in nearly equal curves, the current, of course, being strongest in the middle of each bend. This constant curving gives an endless variety to its scenery. The water, being high, enabled us to see the cleared places that occurred from time to time on the bank; though generally only a thick wood or dense jungle appeared on either hand, yet I never for a moment was weary of watching the graceful bending of the reeds and tall bamboos, and of the varied grouping of these with large trees. In two places the river makes such long bends, that artificial canals have been made across the tongues of land thus formed. One of these cuts, which was less than a hundred yards long, saved us going round half a mile by the river. Every four or five miles we came to a large kampong, and exchanged our boatmen for new ones, so that all day long we swiftly glided down the smooth stream, one relay of men not getting weary before they were relieved by another, and the strong current also helping us onward. The kampongs here are free from the filth seen in those farther up in the interior. The houses are all placed on posts five or six feet high, for sometimes the whole country is completely flooded. Many of them are built of well-planed boards, and have a roofing of tiles. When the sun had become low, we came to the large kampong of Baruaiyu. At all these villages there is a raft with a house upon it, where the boatmen waited for us. Fastening our boat to one of these, we took up our quarters in the rajah’s house. Like those built by our Puritan forefathers, it had one long roof and one short one, but it was so low that a tall man could scarcely stand up in it anywhere. The floor, instead of being level, rose in four broad steps, and the whole building formed but one large apartment with two small rooms at the rear end.

_May 7th._—A severe toothache and the bites and buzzing of thousands of mosquitoes made me glad to see the dawn once more, and again be floating down the river. Before we came to the chief village of each district, where we were to exchange boatmen, we always met the boat of the rajah of that place, and were greeted with shouts and a great din from tifas and gongs.

The rajahs in this region are divided into three grades, and their ranks are shown by the small hemispherical caps they wear. Those of the highest rank have theirs completely covered with figures wrought with gold thread; those of the second rank have theirs mostly covered with such ornaments; and those of the third rank wear only a gold band. They all carry krises of the common serpentine form. Those that have the wavy lines alike on each side of the blade are regarded as the most valuable. The handles are usually made of whale’s-teeth, and very nicely carved; and the scabbards are frequently overlaid with gold. Those that have been used by famous chiefs are valued at all sorts of enormous prices, but are never sold. They also frequently wear a belt covered with large diamond-shaped plates of silver, on which are inscribed verses of the Koran, for the natives of this region are probably the most zealous and most rigid Mohammedans in the archipelago.

The staple article of food here is rice. They also raise much cotton from seed imported from our Southern States. Having gathered it from the ripe bolls, they take out the seeds by running it between two wooden or iron cylinders, which are made to revolve by a treadle, and are so near together, that the seeds, which are saved for the next season, cannot pass through. The fibres are very short, compared to the average product raised in our country, but it serves a good purpose here, where they make it into a coarse thread, which they weave by hand into a cloth for kabayas and chilanas.

The marriage rites and laws here are nearly the same as those I have already described at Taba Pananjong, except that the price of a bride here is just that of a buffalo, or about eighty guilders (thirty-two dollars). Unless a young man has a buffalo or other possessions of equal value, therefore, he cannot purchase a wife. Near Baruaiyu there is a peculiar people known as the Rembang people, who live in four or five villages at some distance from the river. They are very willing to learn to read and write their own language, but will not allow themselves to be taught Dutch or Malay. Last night the river rose still higher, and now it has overflowed its banks, which appear much lower than they are between Lamat and Muara Inem. During the day we have had several showers. At 5 P. M. we arrived at Sungi Rotan, the last village on the Lamatang before its confluence with the Musi. It is a small and poor village, the land here being generally too low for rice, and the cocoa-nut palms yielding but little compared to what they do higher up. Farther down toward Palembang they yield still less. This is the limit of the _controleur’s_ district in this direction. It extends but a short distance up the Inem and up the Limatang above Muara Inem, and yet it contains no less that ninety-one thousand souls.

The _controleur_ came here to settle a difficulty between the people of this and a neighboring village. The other party had occupied a portion of the rice-lands belonging to this people, and the trouble had risen to such a pitch, that the government had to interfere, to prevent them from beginning a war. I said to the rajah that, beyond Lamat, I had passed for miles through a beautiful country, and that it seemed to me he would do well to migrate there; but he evidently disliked such a suggestion, and the _controleur_ asked me not to urge him to adopt my view, for fear that he might think the government designed sending him there, and because he and all his people would rather die than go to live in any distant region.

_May 8th._—At 6½ A. M. started for Palembang. My own boat, which I sent on directly from Muara Inem, arrived here yesterday a few hours before us, having been three days in coming down the same distance that we have made in two. We soon stopped at the request of one of the boatmen to examine a small bamboo box which he had set in a neighboring bayou for crawfish. Several were found in it. Their eyes seemed to emit flashes of light, and appeared to be spherical jewels of a light-scarlet hue. I found them palatable when roasted. The boatmen also found some _Ampullariæ_, which they said they were accustomed to eat, and I found them palatable also We soon floated out of the narrow Limatang into the wide and sluggish Musi, and changed our course from north to east. There are great quantities of rattan along the lower part of the Limatang and the Musi, and the natives gather only a small fraction of what they might if they were not so indolent. Last night, at Sungi Rotan, the mosquitoes proved a worse pest than the night before, and they have continued to annoy us all day.

In the afternoon I had a slight attack of fever, almost the only one I have had since I was ill immediately after my arrival in Batavia, a few days more than a year ago. After three large doses of quinine I fell asleep, my boatmen saying that we should not reach Palembang till morning, which entirely agreed with my own wishes, as I did not care to call during the evening on the assistant Resident, whom I had already notified of my coming. When the last dose had disappeared I soon became oblivious to all real things, and was only troubled with the torturing images seen in a fever-dream. While these hideous forms were still before my mind’s eye, I was suddenly aroused by a loud noise, and, while yet half awake, was dazzled by a bright light on the water, and, on looking out, saw that we were near a large house. On the brilliantly-lighted portico above us were festoons of flowers, and, while I was yet gazing in wonder, inspiriting music sprang up and couple after couple whirled by in the mazy waltz. I put my hand up to my head to assure myself that I was not the victim of some hallucination, and my boatmen, apparently perceiving my state of mind, informed me that we had arrived at Palembang, and that a sister of one of the officials had lately been married, and her brother was celebrating the happy occasion by giving a grand “feast,” or, as we should say, a ball.

The bright light, the enlivening music, and the constant hum of happy voices, instantly banished all possibility of my entertaining the thought of remaining for the night in my dark, narrow cabin; and at once, with no other light whatever than that reflected on the water from the bright ballroom, I prepared myself to meet the Resident in full dress. He was greatly surprised to see me at such a late hour, but received me in a most cordial manner, and at once commenced introducing me to the host and hostess, the bride and bridegroom, and all the assembled guests. The chills and burning fever, from which I had been suffering, vanished, and in a moment I found myself transferred from a real purgatory into a perfect paradise.

Palembang occupies both banks of the Musi for four or five miles, but there are only three or four rows of houses on each bank. Many of these houses were built on bamboo rafts, and, when the tide is high, the city seems to be built on a plain, but at low water it appears to be built in a valley. The tide here usually rises and falls nine or ten feet, but in spring fourteen feet. This is the greatest rise and fall that I have seen in the archipelago. It is said that in the river Rakan, which empties into the Strait of Malacca, at spring tides the water comes in with a bore and rises thirty feet. The principal part of Palembang is built on the left bank. There are a large and well-constructed fort, and the houses of the Resident, assistant Resident, and other officials. The Resident and the colonel commanding the fort are now in the Pasuma country. On the left bank is the Chinese quarter, and very fine imitations of the more common tropical fruits are made there in lacquer-ware by those people. Below the fort, on the right bank, is the large market, where we saw a magnificent display of krises, and enormous quantities of fruit. The name Palembang, or, more correctly, Palimbangan, is of Javanese origin, and signifies “the place where the draining off was done.” The “draining off” is the same phrase as that used to describe water running out of the open-work baskets, in which gold is washed, and the word Palembang is regarded generally as equivalent to “gold-washing” in our language. The Javanese origin of the first settlers in this region is farther shown by the title of the native officials and the names of various localities in the vicinity. The natives have a tradition that Palembang was founded by the Javanese government of Majapahit, but the Portuguese state that it was founded two hundred and fifty years before their arrival, or about A. D. 1250.

Back of the Resident’s house is a mosque with pilasters and a dome, and near by a minaret, about fifty feet high, with a winding external staircase. It is by far the finest piece of native architecture that I have seen in these islands, and is said to be decidedly superior to any of the old temples in Java. Its history appears to be lost, but I judge it was built not long after the arrival of the Portuguese. The architects were probably not natives, but the Arabs, who have not only traded with this people, but succeeded in converting them to Mohammedanism. Palembang Lama, or Old Palembang, is situated on the left bank, a mile or two below the fort. Landing with the natives under a waringin-tree, I followed a narrow path over the low land for a mile, and came to the grave of a native queen. All possible virtues are ascribed to her by the natives, and many were on their way to this shrine to make vows and repeat their Mohammedan formulas, or were already returning homeward. Those who were going stopped at a little village by the way to purchase bunches of a kind of balm which they placed in the tomb. After meeting with many worshippers, I was quite surprised to find the grave was only protected by an old wooden building. The coffin was a rectangular piece of wood, about a foot and a half wide, and five feet long, in which was inserted at the head and foot a small square post, about two feet high. Near the grave of the queen were those of her nearest relatives. This is regarded as the oldest grave that can be identified in this vicinity. It is supposed to have the power to shield its worshippers from sickness and all kinds of misfortune. The Mohammedanism of this people, therefore, even when it is purest, is largely mingled with their previous superstitions.

Nearer Palembang we visited the tombs of later princes. A high wall encloses several separate buildings from twenty to thirty feet square, and surmounted by domes, and within are the coffins, much like that already described. Other massive rectangular tombs are seen outside. None of these appear to be very old.

From Palembang to the mouth of the Musi is about fifty miles, and yet there is plenty of water for the largest steamers to come to the city. The Musi is therefore the largest river in Sumatra; and Palembang gains its importance from its position as the head of navigation on this river, which receives into itself streams navigable for small boats for many miles. On the south is the Ogan, which, in its upper part, flows through a very fertile and well-peopled region, and which, from the descriptions given me, I judge is a plateau analogous to that at Kopaiyong, near the source of the Musi. This region of the Ogan produces much pepper. North of the Musi is the country of the Kubus, who have been described to me here and at Tebing-Tingi as belonging to the Malay race. They are said to clothe themselves with bark-cloth, and to eat monkeys and reptiles of all kinds. They shun all foreigners and other natives, and are very rarely seen. They appear to be very similar in their personal appearance and habits to the Lubus that I saw north of Padang, and perhaps form but a branch of that people.[58] It was to this place that the author of the “Prisoner of Weltevreden” came on his filibustering expedition, and was seized and carried to Batavia, whence he escaped. The open-hearted and generous manner in which I have been everywhere received and aided, both by the government and by private persons, as has constantly appeared on these pages, convinces me that any American, whose character and mission are above suspicion, will be treated with no greater kindness and consideration by any nation than by the Dutch in the East Indian Archipelago.

_May 13th._—Took a small steamer for Muntok, on the island of Banca, where the mail-boat from Batavia touches while on her way to Singapore. Muntok is a very pretty village. The houses, which mostly belong to Chinamen, are neatly built and well painted. The streets are kept in good repair, and the whole place has an air of enterprise and thrift. Here I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of the chief mining engineer on the island. One morning we rode out a few miles to a granite hill, from the top of which I had a fine view over the Strait of Banca to the low, monotonous coast of Sumatra. There are but few elevations on Banca, and none of any considerable height. All are covered with a thick forest. The rocks of which Banca is composed are chiefly granite, and a red, compact sandstone or grit. The tin is disseminated in small particles through the whole mass of granite, which has slowly disintegrated and decomposed, and the clay and sand thus formed have been washed into the nearest depressions. The tin, being the heaviest of these materials, has settled near the bottom of each basin, when they have been somewhat assorted by the action of water. The upper strata being removed, the particles of tin are found in the lower strata, and obtained by washing, just as in the process of washing similar alluvial deposits for gold. When the beds of all the basins on the island have been thoroughly washed, the yield of tin will be at an end, because it does not occur, as at Cornwall, in veins in the granite, but only in small scattered grains. The washing is almost wholly done by Chinese, who chiefly come from Amoy.

The income of Banca[59] has been for some time over three million guilders per year, after deducting the salaries of all the officials on the island, and the annual expense of the garrison. The chief engineer thinks that about two-thirds of all the tin on the island has now been taken out, but that the present yield will continue for some years, and a less one for many years after. This tin-bearing range of granite begins as far north on the west coast of the peninsula of Malacca as Tavoy. It has been obtained at Tenasserim, and on the island of Junk Ceylon, and large quantities are annually taken out at Malacca. It is also found on the Sumatra side of the strait, in the district of Kampar. The range reappears in the islands of Banca and Billiton, and again in Bali, at the eastern end of Java.

_May 14th._—In the evening the steamer arrived from Batavia. For fellow-passengers I found the captain and doctor of an English ship that had lately been burned in the Strait of Sunda while bound from Amoy to Demarara with a cargo of coolies. A passenger from her was also on board, who had written a book on Cochin China, giving his experience while a captive in that land.

_May 18th._—We continue, this morning, to pass small islands, and now, by degrees, we are able to make out many ships and steamers at anchor in a bay, and soon the houses by the bund or street bordering the shore begin to appear. We are nearing Singapore. A year and fourteen days have passed since I landed in Java. During that time I have travelled six thousand miles over the archipelago, and yet I have not once set foot on any other soil than that possessed by the Dutch, so great is the extent of their Eastern possessions.

The activity and enterprise which characterize this city are very striking to one who has been living so long among the phlegmatic Dutchmen. Singapore, or, more correctly, Singapura, “the lion city,” is situated on an island of the same name, which is about twenty-five miles long from east to west, and fourteen miles wide from north to south.

When the English, in 1817, restored the archipelago to the Dutch, they felt the need of some port to protect their commerce; and in 1819, by the foresight of Sir Stamford Raffles, the present site of Singapore was chosen for a free city. In seven years from that time its population numbered 13,000; but has since risen to 90,000. Its imports have risen from $5,808,000 in 1823 to $31,460,000 in 1863, and its exports from $4,598,000 in 1823 to $26,620,000 in 1863.

As soon as I landed, I found myself among American friends, and one of them kindly introduced me to the Governor of the Straits Settlements, who received me in the most polite manner and kindly offered to assist me in any way in his power. At my request, he gave me notes of introduction to the Governor of Hong Kong and the admiral commanding her Majesty’s fleet in the seas of China and Japan. A few days of rest after my long journeys over Sumatra soon glided by, and I was ready to continue my travels.

From Singapore my plan was to proceed directly to China, but finding in port a French ship which was bound for Hong Kong, via Saigon, the capital of Cochin China, I engaged a passage on her in order to see something also of the French possessions in the East. Just as we were ready to sail I met a gentleman who had lately returned from a long journey to Cambodia, whither he had gone to photograph the ruins of the wonderful temples in that land. He had a specimen for me, he said, which I must accept before I knew what it was, a condition I readily complied with, but when the “specimen” appeared I must confess I was not a little surprised to find it was an enormous _python_. It had been caught by the natives of Bankok after it had gorged itself on some unfortunate beast, but that was some time before, and the brute was evidently ready for another feast. My cans containing alcohol were already on board the ship, but I took the monster with me when I went off to her late in the evening, designing to drown it in its box and then transfer his snakeship to a can. The captain, with the greatest politeness, met me at the rail, and showed me my state-room in the after-cabin, and the sailors began to bring my baggage, when first of all appeared the box containing the python! I shouted out to the cabin-boy that that box must be left out on deck, and then, in a low tone, explained to the captain that it contained an enormous snake. “_Un serpent? un serpent?_” he exclaimed, raising up both hands in horror, in such an expressive way as only a Frenchman can, and proceeding to declare that he ought to have known that a passenger who was a naturalist would be sure to fill the whole ship with all sorts of venomous beasts. All the others were little less startled, and shunned me in the half-lighted cabin, as if I were in league with evil spirits, but I quieted their fears by ordering a sailor to put the box into a large boat that was placed right side up on the main deck and promising to kill the great reptile to-morrow.

_May 24th._—Early this morning we made sail, and I concluded to let my troublesome specimen remain until we were out of the harbor, but now, in the changing of the monsoons, the winds are light and baffling and we finally came to anchor once more; and a sailor who got up into the boat said something about “_le serpent_.” I was on the quarter-deck at the time, and determining at once not to be troubled more with it, jumped down on the main-deck, ran to the side of the boat, and seizing the box gave it a toss into the sea, but just as it was leaving my hands I thought to myself, “How light it is!” and the sailor said, “_Le serpent n’est pas encore!—pas encore!_” We all looked over the ship’s side and there was the box floating quietly away, and it was evident that the monster had escaped. Every one then asked, “Where is he?” but no one could tell. I assured the captain that he was in the box when I put it on the sampan to come off to the ship. “Is he on board?” was the next question from the mouths of all. We looked carefully in the boat and round the deck, but could detect no trace of him whatever, and all, except myself, came to the conclusion that he was not brought on board, and then went back to their work. The box in which he had been confined was about a foot and a half long by a foot high and a foot wide, and over the top were four or five strips of board, each fastened at either end with a single nail. On inquiring more closely, the sailor told me that before I seized the box, the side with the slats was one of the perpendicular sides, and had not been placed uppermost, as it ought to have been. “Then,” I reasoned, “he is here on board somewhere beyond a doubt, and I brought him here, and it’s my duty to find him and kill him.”

We had four horses on deck, and the middle of the boat was filled with hay for them, and under that it was probable the great reptile had crawled away. In the bottom of the boat, aft, was a triangular deck, and, as I climbed up a second time, I noticed that the board which formed the apex of the triangle was loose, and moved a little to one side. Carefully raising this, I espied, to my horror, the great python closely coiled away beneath, the place being so small that the loose board rested on one of his coils. I wore a thin suit, a Chinese baju, or loose blouse, a pair of canvas shoes, and a large sun-hat. Throwing off my hat, that I might go into the dreadful struggle unimpeded, I shouted out for a long knife, knowing well that what I must try to do was to cut him in two, and that he would attempt to catch my hand in his jaws, and, if he should succeed in doing that, he would wind himself around me as quick as a man could wind the lash of a long whip around a fixed stick, and certainly he was large enough and strong enough to crush the largest horse. The cook handed me a sharp knife, more than a foot long, and, holding the board down with my feet, I thrust the blade through the crack, and, wrenching with all my might, tried to break the great reptile’s back-bone, and thus render all that part of the body behind the fracture helpless. Despite my utmost efforts, he pulled away the knife, and escaped two or three feet forward, where there was more room under the deck. By this time there was the greatest confusion. The captain, evidently believing that discretion is the better part of valor, ran below the moment he was satisfied that I had indeed discovered the monster, seized a brace of revolvers, and, perching himself upon the monkey-rail, leaned his back against the mizzen-rigging, and held one in each hand, ready to fire into the boat at the slightest alarm. The sailors all gathered round the boat, and stood perfectly still, apparently half-stupified, and not knowing whether it would be safest for them to stand still, climb up in the rigging, or jump overboard. The first mate armed himself with a revolver, and climbed on to the stern of the boat. Indeed, every moment I expected to hear a report, and find myself shot by some of the brave ones behind me. The second mate, who was the only real man among them all, seized a large sheath-knife, and climbed into the boat to help me. I knew it would not do to attempt to strike the monster with a knife where he had room enough to defend himself; I therefore threw it down, and seized a short handspike of iron-wood, the only weapon within my reach, and told the second mate to raise the deck, and I would attempt to finish my antagonist with the club, for the thought of escaping while I could, and leave for others to do what belonged to me, never entered my mind. As the deck rose I beheld him coiled up about two feet and a half from my right foot. Suffering the acutest agony from the deep wound I had already given him, he raised his head high out of the midst of his huge coil, his red jaws wide open, and his eyes flashing fire like live coals. I felt the blood chill in my veins as, for an instant, we glanced into each other’s eyes, and both instinctively realized that one of us two must die on that spot. He darted at my foot, hoping to fasten his fangs in my canvas shoe, but I was too quick for him, and gave him such a blow over the head and neck that he was glad to coil up again. This gave me time to prepare to deal him another blow, and thus for about fifteen minutes I continued to strike with all my might, and three or four times his jaws came within two or three inches of my canvas shoe. I began now to feel my strength failing, and that I could not hold out more than a moment longer, yet, in that moment, fortunately, the carpenter got his wits together, and thought of his broad-axe, and, bringing it to the side of the boat, held up the handle, so that I could seize it while the reptile was coiling up from the last stunning blow. The next time he darted at me I gave him a heavy cut about fifteen inches behind his head, severing the body completely off, except about an inch on the under side, and, as he coiled up, this part fell over, and he fastened his teeth into his own coils. One cut more, and I seized a rope, and, in an instant, I tugged him over the boat’s side, across the deck, and over the ship’s rail into the sea. The long trail of his blood on the deck assured me that I was indeed safe, and, drawing a long breath of relief, I thanked the Giver of all our blessings.

This was my last experience in the tropical East. A breeze sprang up, and the ship took me rapidly away toward the great empire of China, where I travelled for a year, and passed through more continued dangers and yet greater hardships than in the East Indian Archipelago.

APPENDIX A.

_Area of the Principal Islands, according to Baron Melville van Carnbée._

Square English geographical miles. Java and Madura 38,251.2 Sumatra 128,560.0 Pulo Nias 1,200.0 Babi 480.0 Pagi 560.0 Banca 3,568.0 Billiton 1,904.0 Borneo 203,888.0 Celebes 57,248.0 Buton 1,379.2 Bali 16,848.0 Lombok 16,560.0 Sumbawa 4,448.0 Floris 4,032.0 Timur 9,808.0 Sandal-wood Island 3,784.0 Tenimber Islands 2,400.0 Aru Islands 1,040.0 Islands of Banda 17.6 Ceram 4,944.0 Buru 2,624.0 Gilolo 5,016.0 Bachian 800.0 Ternate 11.2 Amboina 2,128.0 --------- Total area of the Netherlands India 445,411.2

APPENDIX B.

_Population of the Netherlands India, 1865._

-------------------------+----------+----------+--------+------+--------+ | | | | | Other | ISLANDS. |Europeans.| Natives. |Chinese.|Arabs.|Eastern | | | | | |nations.| -------------------------+----------+----------+--------+------+--------+ Java and Madura | 27,105|13,704,535| 156,192| 6,764| 22,772| “West Coast” of Sumatra, | | | | | | including the islands | | | | | | from Nias to the Pagis | 1,188| 872,173 | 3,172| 54| 1,110| Residency of Bencoolen | 174| 119,691| 596| 6| 47| ” Lampong | 52| 88,113| 180| 8| 4,666| ” Palembang | 182| 622,345| 2,790| 1,716| 67| Banca | 116| 37,070| 17,097| 56| | Billiton | 34| 12,786| 1,781| | 1,223| Rhio | 136| 10,454| 19,972| 2| 119| Borneo (the parts under | | | | | | the Dutch Government) | 328| 802,889| 26,393| 1,736| 597| Celebes | 1,176| 292,619| 4,385| 42| | Residency of Amboina | 1,219| 104,841| 311| 85| 817| ” Banda | 545| 5,876| 153| 12| | ” Ternate | 732| 2,062| 427| 70| | The Minahassa | 550| 102,423| 1,437| 11| | Timur | 190| Unknown.| 752| 3| | Bali and Lombok | | 863,725| | | | +----------+----------+--------+------+--------+ Total | 33,677|17,641,602| 235,535|10,565| 31,424| -------------------------+----------+----------+--------+------+--------+

-------------------------+------------ | ISLANDS. | Total. | -------------------------+------------ Java and Madura | 13,917,368 “West Coast” of Sumatra, | including the islands | from Nias to the Pagis | 877,703 Residency of Bencoolen | 120,514 ” Lampong | 93,019 ” Palembang | 527,050 Banca | 54,339 Billiton | 15,824 Rhio | 30,683 Borneo (the parts under | the Dutch Government) | 931,843 Celebes | 298,222 Residency of Amboina | 107,273 ” Banda | 6,586 ” Ternate | 3,291 The Minahassa | 104,418 Timur | 945 Bali and Lombok | 863,725 +------------ Total | 17,952,803 -------------------------+------------

APPENDIX C.

_A Table of Heights of the Principal Mountains in the Archipelago._

Height in Place. Eng. feet. AMBOINA. Salhutu (highest peak on the island) 4,010 TERNATE (peak of) 5,510 TIDORE (peak of) 5,440 MINAHASSA. Mount Klabat 6,560 Mount Sudara 4,390 Mount Batu Angus 2,290 Mount Lokon 5,140 Mount Massarang 4,150 Mount Tompasso 3,850 Mount Saputan 5,960 Mount Mahawut 4,170 Mount Sempo 4,900 Mount Katawak 3,970 Mount Kawin 3,430 Lake of Tondano 2,272

HEIGHTS IN JAVA.

Mount Krawang 5,771 Salak 7,244 Mandalawangi 9,940 Gedeh 9,750 Sedaratu 9,591 Alun-alun 9,100 Papandayang 7,477 Pasir Alang 8,387 Taman Saāt 7,908 Chikorai 9,233 Telaga Bodas 5,874 Highest edge of Galunggong 5,320 Galunggong 3,825 Slamat 11,329 Sindoro 10,316 Merbabu 10,219 Sumbing 10,947 Lawu 10,727 Dorowati 8,480 Kawi 9,408 Arjuno 10,947 Sémiru 12,235 Budolembu, highest peak in the Tenger Mountains 8,705 Boromo 7,545 Ajang 9,896 Raon 10,177

HEIGHTS IN SUMATRA.

Padang Hill (Apenberg) 341 Kayu Tanam 403 Padang Panjang 2,432 Fort Gugur Sigandang, the highest point on the _col_ between Singalang and Mérapi 3,677 From this place to Matua is the plateau of Agam—Matua is 3,389 Bambang 2,028 Pisang 1,685 Kumpodang (where we crossed the brook and found a _controleur_ making a bridge, etc.) 670 Bondyol 735 Water-shed just before coming to Libu Siképing 2,132 Libu Siképing 1,511 Rau 972 Water-shed between Rau and Kota Nopan 2,132 That above Kota Nopan 1,351 Water-shed between Tobing and Uraba 2,451 Last hills crossed before coming down to Eik Bediri 600 to 800 Dundgus Nasi (island passed in coming from Siboga) 800 Mount Talang (Crawfurd’s Dictionary) 10,500 Mount Singalang 9,634 Mount Mérapi 9,570 Mount Sago, about 5,862 Mount Ophir 9,770 Mount Kalabu (west of Rau) 5,115 Mount Seret Mérapi 5,860 Mount Pitya Kéling 680 Lubu Rajah 6,234 Height of the plateau of Toba, about 4,000 Sinkara, greatest depth 1,193 Bottom of Silindong Valley 3,144 Bukit Gedang, the edge of the old crater crossed in going down to Manindyu 3,624 Lake of Manindyu 1,541 Tanjong Alam, on the road from Fort van der Capellen to Paya Kombo 3,428 Paya Kombo 1,704 Height of Silindong Valley (_e. g._, at Uta Galong) 3,144 Height of Toba Valley about 4,000 Mount Indrapura, estimated at 12,255 Mount Lusé, in the territory of Achin, in 3° 40′ N. (Crawfurd) 11,250 Mount Lombok, according to Melville van Carnbée, by triangulation, about 12,363

APPENDIX D.

_Coffee sold by the Government at Padang._

------+-----------------+-------------------+--------------- YEAR. | Total quantity. | Exported to U. S. | Average price. ------+-----------------+-------------------+--------------- | _Piculs._ | _Piculs._ | _Guilders._ 1856 | 125,000 | 65,521 | 30.84 1857 | 150,000 | 6,037 | 33.78 1858 | 185,000 | 72,010 | 25.25 1859 | 145,000 | 46,285 | 32.09 1860 | 151,000 | 19,536 | 34.59 1861 | 150,000 | 18,715 | 34.67 1862 | 135,000 | 15,971 | 41.15 1863 | | 23,745 | 1864 | 164,400 | 48,543 | 39.56 ------+-----------------+-------------------+---------------

APPENDIX E.

_Trade of Java and Madura during 1864._

------------------------------------------+---------------+----------- COUNTRIES. | No. of ships. | Tonnage. ------------------------------------------+---------------+----------- ARRIVALS. | | From Holland | 197 | 143,250 From other parts of Europe | 69 | 34,193 From the United States | 24 | 12,610 From the Cape of Good Hope | 7 | 4,132 From India | 18 | 9,060 From China, Manilla, and Siam | 128 | 45,067 From Mauritius | 4 | 1,034 From Japan | 4 | 843 From Australia | 68 | 29,548 From the eastern parts of the archipelago | 2,138 | 141,462½ +---------------+---------- Total | 2,657 | 423,083½ +===============+========== DEPARTURES. | | For Holland | 396 | 267,260 For other parts of Europe | 9 | 3,338 For the United States | 3 | 2,258 For India | 8 | 4,755 For China, Manilla, and Siam | 73 | 22,508 For Japan | 5 | 1,878 For Australia | 20 | 4,338 For the eastern parts of the archipelago | 2,245 | 151,066½ +===============+========== Total | 2,759 | 577,401½ ------------------------------------------+---------------+----------

APPENDIX F.

_A List of the Birds collected by the Author on the island of Buru._

_Pandion leucocephalus_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. i., pl. 6.

_Baza Rheinwardtii_, Schleg. and Müll., P.Z.S.,[60] 1860, p. 342.

_Tinnunculus moluccensis_, Hornb. and Jacq., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 343.

_Ephialtes leucoapila_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 344.

_Caprimulgus macrourus_, Horsf., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 22.

_Hirundo javanica_, Sath., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 345.

_Cypselus mystaceus_, Sess., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 22.

_Eurystomus pacificus_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1863, p. 25.

_Todiramphus collaris_, Bon., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 23.

_Todiramphus sanctus_, Bon., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 23.

_Alcyone pusilla_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. ii., pl. 26.

_Nectarinia zenobia_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1863, p. 32.

_Nectarinia proserpina_, Wall., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 32.

_Dicæum erythothorax_, Sess., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 32.

_Tropidorynchus bouruensis_, Wall., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 31.

_Acrocephalus australis_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. iii., pl. 37.

_Sylvia flavescens_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 349.

_Cysticola rustica_, Wall., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 25.

_Cysticola ruficeps_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. iii., pl. 45.

_Motacilla flavescens_, Shaw, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 350.

_Criniger mysticalis_, Wall., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 28.

_Mimeta bouruensis_, Wall., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 26.

_Rhipidura tricolor_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 351.

_Rhipidura bouruensis_, Wall., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 29.

_Rhipidura_, sp.

_Monarcha loricata_, Wall., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 29.

_Musicapa_, sp.

_Camphega marginata_, Wall., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 31.

_Artaurus leucogaster_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 354.

_Dicrurus amboinensis_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 354.

_Calornis obscura_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 355.

_Calornis metallica_, Bon., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 355.

_Munia molucca_, Blyth, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 355.

_Platycercus dorsalis_, Quoy and Gaim, (_P. hypophonius_, Gray) P.Z.S., 1860, p. 356.

_Eos rubra_, Wagl., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 356.

_Trichoglossus cyanogrammus_, Wagl., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 357.

_Eclectus puniceus_, Gm., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 357.

_Eclectus polychlorus_, Scop., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 358.

_Tanygnathus affinis_, Wall., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 20.

_Geoffroius personatus_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 358.

_Eudynornis ramsomi_, Bon., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 359.

_Centropus medius_, Müll., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 23.

_Cuculus caroides_, Müll., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 359.

_Cuculus assimilis_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1858, p. 184.

_Cacaomantis sepulchris_, Bon., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 359.

_Ptilonopus superbus_, Steph., P.Z.S., 1858, p. 184.

_Ptilonopus prassinorrhous_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1858, p. 185.

_Ptilonopus viridis_, Gm., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 34.

_Treron aromatica_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1863, p. 33.

_Carpophaga perspicillata_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 360.

_Carpophaga melanura_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 361.

_Macropygia amboinensis_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 361.

_Macropygia_, sp.

_Chalcophaps moluccensis_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 361.

_Megapodius Forsteri_, Temm., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 362.

_Megapodius Wallacii_, Gray, P.Z.S., 1860, p. 362.

_Glareola grallaria_, Temm., P.Z.S., 1863, p. 35.

_Ardetta flavicollis_, Sath., Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vi., pl. 65.

_Ardea novæ-hollandiæ_, Sath., Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vi., pl. 53.

_Herodias immaculata_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vi., pl. 58.

_Butorides javanica_, Blyth, P.Z.S., 1863, p. 35.

_Limosa uropygialis_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vi., pl. 29.

_Sphoeniculus magnus_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vi., pl. 33.

_Sphoeniculus subarquatus_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vi., pl. 32.

_Sphoeniculus albescens_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vi., pl. 31.

_Actitis empusa_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vi., pl. 31.

_Totanus griseopygius_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vi., pl. 38.

_Numenius uropygialis_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vi., pl. 43.

_Gallinula mystacina_, Temm.

_Rallus pectoralis_, Cuv., Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vi., pl. 76.

_Rallus_, sp.

_Dendrocygna guttulata_. Gray, P.Z.S., 1863, p. 36.

_Sterna velox_, Rüpp., P.Z.S., 1860, p. 366.

_Sula fusca_, Gould, B. of Aust., vol. vii., pl. 78.

NOTE.—For lists of birds collected on the Banda Isles, Ternate, and Celebes, see ‘Proceedings of the Boston Society of Natural History.’ For a list of the shells collected in the Moluccas and other scientific papers, see ‘Memoirs and Proceedings of the Boston Society of Natural History,’ and the ‘American Journal of Science for 1868,’ _et seq._

FOOTNOTES

[1] Valentyn, “History of the Moluccas.”

[2] The population of the Residency of Samarang, which includes the city, is 1,020,275. Of these 5,162 are Europeans, 1,001,252 are natives, 11,441 are Chinese, 438 are Arabs, and 1,982 are from other Eastern nations. In these figures the military are not included.

[3] The population of the Residency of Surabaya, which also includes that of the city of the same name, is 1,278,600. Of these, 5,124 are Europeans, 1,261,271 are natives, 7,603 are Chinese, 1,477 are Arabs, and 3,125 are from other Eastern nations.

[4] Crawfurd’s Dict. Ind. Arch.

[5] Crawfurd’s Dict. Ind. Arch., “Hindustan.”

[6] For the history of the culture-system and government in the Netherlands India, consult Money’s “Java.”

[7] During 1865 the government sold 250,000 piculs (16,666 tons) of sugar, but the total exported from Java was two million piculs.

[8] Our word sugar comes from the Arabic _sakar_, and that from the Sanscrit _sarkara_, thus indicating in its name how it first came to be known to Europeans.

[9] Mr. Crawfurd states that it is a similar product made from the sap of the Palmyra palm (_Borassus flabelliformis_), and not the sugar of the cane, that forms the saccharine consumption of tropical Asia, i. e., among the Cochin-Chinese, the Siamese, the Burmese, and the inhabitants of Southern India, including the Telinga nation who introduced Hinduism and Sanscrit names among these people, and probably were the first to teach them how to obtain sugar from the sap of palm-trees.

[10] The prices obtained for it are established as follows: On Madura and the north coast of Java, 6.92 guilders; on the south coast, 5.92 gl.; at Bencoolen, Padang, and Priaman, on the west coast of Sumatra, 6.66¾ gl.; Ayar Bangis and Natal, 6 gl.; Palembang, 5.10 gl.; Banca, 6.72 gl.; Bandyermassin, 6.66 gl.; Sambas and Pontianak, 5.10 gl.

[11] Of this number 27,105 are Europeans; 13,704,535 are natives; 156,192 are Chinese; 6,764 are Arabs; and 22,772 are from other Eastern nations. See Appendix B.

[12] For a list of the number of ships that arrived during 1864, their tonnage, and the countries from which they came, see Appendix E.

[13] Albinos are occasionally found among these animals. For a long time previous to 1840 there was a famous “white deer” on the coast at Antju, in the vicinity of Batavia. Many attempts were made to shoot it, and these invariably proved so unsuccessful, that the natives, finding they had an opportunity to give way to their insatiable love for the marvellous, were all fully convinced that this animal was invulnerable. It was, however, shot at last, and proved to be of a gray, rather than a pure white. In 1845 a young one of a pure white color was caught at Macassar.

[14] Jão de Barros, who wrote a classical history of the regions discovered and conquered by the Portuguese in the East, was born in 1496, and died in 1570. He never visited the Indies, but carefully and faithfully compiled his descriptions from the official records, which were all intrusted to his care, in 1532. The first decade of his work was published in 1552, the second in 1553, the third in 1563, and the fourth after his death. He was, therefore, a contemporary of most of the early navigators whose history he narrates.

[15] Diogo de Cauto, who wrote the “Asia Portuguesa,” was born in Lisbon in 1542, and died at Goa, the Portuguese capital of India, in 1616, at the age of seventy-four. It is believed that he went to India at the age of fourteen, and, after having lived there in the army ten years, returned to Portugal, but soon after went back, and continued there till his death. It is probable that he never visited any part of the archipelago himself, but obtained from others the information he gives us.

[16] The early kings of Macassar boasted that they descended from the Tormanurong, who, according to their legends, had this miraculous history as given in Pinkerton’s “Voyages,” vol. ii., p. 216. In the earliest times, it happened that a beautiful woman, adorned with a chain of gold, descended from heaven, and was acknowledged by the Macassars as their queen. Upon hearing of the appearance on earth of this celestial beauty, the King of Bantam made a long voyage to that land, and sought her hand in marriage, though he had before wedded a princess of Bontain. His suit was granted, and a son was begotten in this marriage, who was two or three years old before he was born, so that he could both walk and talk immediately after his birth, but he was very much distorted in shape. When he was grown up, he broke the chain of gold which his mother had brought from heaven into two pieces, after which she, together with her husband, vanished in a moment, taking with her one half the chain, and leaving the other half and the empire to her son. This chain, which the Macassars say is sometimes heavy and sometimes light, at one time dark colored and at another bright, was ever afterward one of the regalia of the kings until it was lost in a great revolution.

[17] Odoardo Barbosa (in Spanish, Balbosa) was a gentleman of Lisbon, who travelled in the East during his youth. From his writings it appears probable that he visited Malacca before it was conquered by the Portuguese in 1511. His work appeared in 1516. In 1519 he joined Magellan, and was treacherously murdered by the natives of Zebu, one of the Philippines, in 1521, four days after the great navigator, whom he accompanied, had suffered a like fate.

[18] Mr. Wallace estimated the value of the goods carried there from Macassar alone at 200,000 guilders (80,000 dollars), and those brought from other places at 50,000 guilders (20,000 dollars) more.

[19] The name of this island comes from the Portuguese word _flor_, a flower; plural, _floris_.

[20] The Rajah of Sangir, a village from twelve to fifteen miles southeast of the volcano, was an eye-witness of this fearful phenomenon, and thus describes it: “About 7 P. M., on the 10th of April, three distinct columns of flame burst forth, near the top of Tomboro Mountain, all of them apparently within the verge of the crater; and, after ascending separately to a very great height, their tops united in the air in a troubled, confused manner. In a short time the whole mountain next Sangir appeared like a body of liquid fire, extending itself in every direction. The fire and columns of flame continued to rage with unabated fury until the darkness, caused by the quantity of falling matter, obscured it at about 8 P. M. Stones at this time fell very thick at Sangir, some of them as large as a man’s two fists, but generally not larger than walnuts. Between 9 and 10 P. M. ashes began to fall; and soon after, a violent whirlwind ensued, which blew down nearly every house in the village of Sangir, carrying their tops and light parts along with it. In that part of the district of Sangir adjoining Tomboro, its effects were much more violent, tearing up by the roots the largest trees, and carrying them into the air, together with men, houses, cattle, and whatever else came within its influence. The sea rose nearly twelve feet higher than it had ever been known to do before, and completely spoiled the only small spots of rice-lands in Sangir, sweeping away houses and every thing within its reach.”

[21] “Native Races of the East Indian Archipelago, Papuans,” by George Windsor Earl, M. R. A. S. London, 1853.

[22] Possibly the “spots,” of which Mr. Earl speaks, may have been caused by some disease, for spots of a lighter hue than the general color of the body are often seen among all Malays. Both the straight-haired Malaysians and the frizzled-haired Melanesians have the odd custom of rubbing _lime_ into their hair, which gives it a dull-yellowish or reddish tinge. Mr. Earl, however, states that he has seen one native whose hair was naturally _red_, a kind of partial albinoism.

[23] Mr. Jukes remarks, and I believe, most correctly, that “if the term ‘jura kalk’ is applied lithologically to these tertiary rocks, it is to a certain extent applicable, as they have a concretionary and oölitic structure. If, however, it is meant to have a chronological meaning, it is either incorrectly applied, or the formation is incorrectly extended on the map to the neighborhood of Kupang.”

[24] “Voyage of the Dourga in 1825 and 1826,” by Captain Kloff, translated by G. W. Earl.

[25] A paal, the unit of measure on land in the East Indian Archipelago, is fifteen sixteenths of a statute mile.

[26] The Dutch name for this tree and its fruit is cacao. Our word chocolate comes from the Spanish “chocolate,” which was a mixture of the fruit of this tree with Indian corn. These were ground up together, and some honey was usually added. After sugar-cane was introduced, that was also added to neutralize the bitter qualities of the cocoa.

[27] This name must not be confounded with that of the cocoa-nut-tree, or _Cocos nucifera_, which is a palm. The word cocoa is supposed to have been derived from the Portuguese word _macoco_ or _macaco_, a monkey, and to have been applied to the cocoa-nut palm, from a fancied resemblance between the end of the shell, where the three black scars occur, and the face of a monkey.

[28] Francis Valentyn, the author of the most comprehensive and accurate history and description of the Dutch possessions in all the East, was a Lutheran clergyman. He was born at Dordrecht, about the year 1660. In 1686 he arrived at Data via as a minister, and having resided some time at Japara, near Samarang, he was transferred to Amboina, the future field of his ministry and literary labors. After a residence of twelve years in the Spice Islands, he was obliged to return home on account of ill-health. Having remained in Holland for eleven years, he sailed a second time for India in 1705. Arriving at Java, he remained on that island for two years, and then proceeded to the Spice Islands, where he resided for seven years, and in 1714 he returned again to Holland. Immediately after his arrival he devoted himself to arranging his copious notes for publication. His first volume was published in 1724; this was followed by seven others, all fully illustrated, the last appearing in 1726. They embrace a complete description and history of all the Dutch possessions from the Cape of Good Hope to Japan. The date of the death of this eminent man is not known, but he must have been in his sixty-sixth year when he finished his great work.

[29] According to official statements, the total yield from 1675 to 1854 was 100,034,036 Amsterdam pounds.

[30] De Cauto, who visited these islands in 1540, says: “The Persians call the clove _calafur_, and speaking on this matter, with permission of the physicians, it appears to us that the _carofilum_ of the Latin is corrupted from the _calafur_ of the Moors (Arabs), for they have some resemblance. And as this drug passed into Europe through the hands of the Moors with the name _calafur_, it appears the Europeans did not change it. The Castilians (Spaniards) called cloves _gilope_, because they came from the island of Gilolo (probably one of the chief sources of this article at that time). The people of the Moluccas call them _chanqué_. The Brahmin physicians first called them _lavanga_, but afterward gave them the Moorish name. Generally all nations give them a name of their own, as we have done; for the first of us (the Portuguese) that reached these islands (the Moluccas), taking them in their hands, and observing their resemblance to iron nails, called them _cravo_, by which they are now so well known in the world.”

[31] In 1855 the population of the islands east of Amboina was thus divided, and so little change has occurred that these figures closely represent the relative numbers of each class at the present time:

---------+----------+--------+------------------------+-------+-------- Islands. |Mestizoes.|Burgers.| Villagers. |Slaves.| Total. | | +-----------+------------+ | | | |Christians.|Mohammedans.| | ---------+----------+--------+-----------+------------+-------+-------- Haruku | 88 | 288 | 3,204 | 3,544 | 64 | 7,188 Saparua | 162 | 2,912 | 7,340 | 1,154 | 97 | 11,665 Nusalaut | 4 | 63 | 3,386 | | 26 | 3,479 ---------+----------+--------+-----------+------------+-------+--------

[32] In 1854 the western part that is included in the residency of Hila was supposed to contain a population of two thousand four hundred and sixty-eight; the middle peninsula and the bay visited on this voyage, twenty-four thousand one hundred and ninety-four; the northern coast under Wahai, forty thousand nine hundred and twenty-five; and, in the great area east of Elpaputi Bay, it was supposed that there dwelt between twenty-one and twenty-two thousand; making a total of eighty-nine thousand and eighty-seven, about ninety thousand; but Dr. Bleeker, who gives these figures, thinks there are half as many more people among the mountains, and that the whole population of the island should be put down at one hundred and fifty thousand. He gives the population of these islands for 1855 in round numbers as follows:

Amboina 29,500 Haruku 7,900 Buru 9,200 Amblau 1,000 Bonoa 1,500 Nusalaut 3,500 Manipa 700 Saparua 11,600 Ceram 150,000 ------- Total 214,200

These figures may be regarded as good estimates of the population at the present time.

[33] This name Alfura, in Dutch Alfoera, is also written Alfora, Alafora, Arafura, and Halafora. Mr. Crawford finds that it is composed of the Arabic articles _alor_, _el_, and the preposition _fora_, without; and was simply a general denomination given by the Portuguese when they were supreme in the Moluccas to all the native inhabitants who were without the pale of their authority.

[34] This Gunong Api most not be confounded with another similar volcano of the same name north of Wetta, and still another near the western end of Sumbawa, at the northern entrance to the Sapi Strait.

[35] De Barros, in Crawfurd’s “Dictionary of the India Islands.”

[36] Subsequently I learned that two of them were still living when he reached France.

[37] From Valentyn and later writers we learn that eruptions have occurred in the following years: 1586, 1598, 1609, 1615, 1632, 1690, 1696, 1712, 1765, 1775, 1778, 1820, and 1824.

[38] Heavy earthquakes, without eruptions, have occurred in 1629, 1683, 1710, 1767, 1816, and 1852.

[39] In this case the facts that the water in the roads did not pour out into the sea, and that the “flood” did not come until half an hour after the shock had occurred, indicate that this wave had its origin elsewhere, and that there is no need of supposing, as in accounting for the great wave of 1852, that any part of the group was raised or depressed.

[40] Mr. Crawford thinks this is a corruption of _burungdewata_, which in Malay means “birds of God.”

[41] Vide Ramusio, vol. i., p. 376, in Crawford’s “Dictionary of the India Islands.”

[42] In the same length of time Mr. A. R. Wallace collected sixty-six species on this island.

[43] A similar cause produces the rainless district of Peru, but there the prevailing wind throughout the year, at least in the upper strata of the atmosphere, is from the southeast.

[44] This date is corroborated by Pigafetta, who wrote in 1521, and remarks in regard to this point: “Hardly fifty years have elapsed since the Moors (Arabs) conquered (converted) Malucco (the Moluccas), and dwelt there. Previously these islands were peopled with Gentiles (i. e., heathen) only.”

[45] Vide Pigafetta in Crawfurd’s “Dict. India Islands.”

[46] He has since been canonized, and is worthily considered by his people a model of piety and devotion to the missionary cause.

[47] Mr. A. R. Wallace, who has travelled more widely than any other naturalist over the region where these magnificent birds are found, gives the following complete list of the species now known, and the places they inhabit: Arru Islands, _P. apoda_ and _P. regia_; Misol, _P. regia_ and _P. magnifica_; Wagiu, _P. rubra_; Salwatti, _P. regia_, _P. magnifica_, _Epimachus albus_, and _Sericulus aureus_; coast regions of New Guinea generally, _Epimachus albus_, and _Sericulus aureus_; central and mountainous regions of the northern peninsula of New Guinea, _Lophorina superba_, _Parotia sexsetacea_, _Astrapia nigra_, _Epimachus magnus_, _Craspedophora magnifica_, and probably _Diphylloides Wilsonii_ and _Paradigalla carunculata_.

[48] This number is divided according to nationalities as follows: Europeans, 550; natives, 102,423; Chinese, 1,434; Arabs, 11.

[49] Crawfurd’s “Dictionary of the India Islands.”

[50] For an accurate representation of these rings, see the drawings of concretionary structure in Dana’s “Manual of Geology,” p. 99, fig. 85.

[51] I had little idea, when the above was written, that this ship was no other than the Hartford, made so famous by Admiral Farragut’s brave and successful assault on the forts below Mobile, and that Rear-Admiral H. H. Bell, then commanding our Asiatic squadron, was on board; and that during that same year (1866) it would be my privilege to meet him, and receive from him and the other officers of our United States ships so much kind assistance in making long voyages on the coasts of China, Corea, and Japan.

[52] Vide Max Müller’s “Lectures on the Science of Language,” First Course, p. 224.

[53] Queen Elizabeth’s letter is as follows: “We for them” (the East India Company) “do promise, that in no time hereafter you shall have cause to repent thereof, but rather to rejoice much, for their dealing shall be true and their conversation sure, and we hope that they will give such good proof thereof that this beginning shall be a perpetual confirmation of love betwixt our subjects in both parts, by carrying from us such things and merchandise as you have need of there. So that your highness shall be very well served, and better contented, than you have heretofore been with the Portugals and Spaniards, our enemies, who only and none else of these regions have frequented those your and the other kingdoms of the East, not suffering that the other natives should do it, pretending themselves to be monarchs and absolute lords of all those kingdoms and provinces, as their own conquest and inheritance, as appears by their lofty titles in their writings. The contrary whereof hath very lately appeared unto us. That your highness, and your royal family, fathers and grandfathers, have, by the grace of God, and their valor, known, not only to defend your own kingdoms, but also to give war unto the Portugals in the land which they possess, as namely: in Malacca, in the year of human redemption, 1575, under the conduct of your valliant Captain Ragamacota (_Rajah makuta_) with their great loss and the perpetual honor of your highness’ crown and kingdom. And now, if your highness shall be pleased to accept unto your favor and grace and under your royal protection and defence, these our subjects, that they may freely do their business now and continue yearly hereafter, this bearer, who goeth chief of the fleet of four ships, hath order, with your highness’ license, to leave certain factors with a settled house or factory in your kingdom, until the going thither of another fleet, which shall go thither on the return of this—which left factors shall learn the language and customs of your subjects, whereby the better and more lovingly to converse with them.”

[54] For a detailed list of the quantities exported each year, and the average price, see Appendix D.

[55] Vide Marsden’s “History of Sumatra,” p. 322 _et seq._

[56] While this work is going to the press, the specimens referred to have all arrived in perfect order, though the ship that brought them was obliged to put in twice in distress, having one time been nearly dismasted by a cyclone, that kept her on her beam ends for eight hours.

[57] This accords with Van Dijk’s statement, that while the purity of English coals is represented by 81.08, that of the Orange-Nassau mines in Borneo would be represented by 98.46, and this by 69.47.

[58] The total population of this residency is estimated at 527,050, of which 132 are Europeans; about 522,345 natives; 2,790 Chinese; 1,716 Arabs; and 67 from other Eastern nations.

[59] The population of the island is 54,389. Of these, 110 are Europeans; 37,070 natives; 17,097 Chinese, and 56 Arabs.

[60] ‘Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London.’

INDEX.

A.

Abreu, Antonio d’, sent to search for the Spice Islands, 23; is the first to reach the Bandas, 215; pillars of discovery erected by, 256.

Achin, country, people, and trade, 448; English appear at, 449.

Alfura, name whence derived and its signification, 203, and _note_; bloody laws of, in Ceram, 205; of Kaibobo, 207; drunken revels of, 209, 210; of Buru, their customs and belief, 271-273; of the Minahassa, 365.

Amahai, bay of, described, 202; village of, _ib._

Amboina, residence of Rumphius, 13; island and city described, 130-132; famous for its shells, 133; life of foreigners at, 211; trade of, 249.

_Amuk_, defined, 383.

_Anak gadis_, or virgin children, 497, 507.

_Anon depressicornis_, an antelope, 325.

Ants, abundance of and trouble caused by, 288, 289.

Army, headquarters of Javanese, 43; Dutch, in Sumatra, 456.

Arrack, how made, 68.

Arriens, governor of the Moluccas, 213; kind invitation given the author, _ib._; visits Banda, 213 _et seq._

Aru Islands, account of, 244.

Assilulu, visit to the village of, 149-161.

Ayar Bangis, port of, 453.

B.

Baba, island of, described, 127.

Babirusa, skulls of, 150; distribution of, _ib._; young one seen at Kayéli, 292; author hunts for, on Limbi, 325; one commits suicide, 331.

Bachian, island of, described, 299; great python killed on, 334; fauna of, 380.

_Baju_, a, described, 34.

Bali, described, 93; fauna of, _ib._; separation from Java, 93, 94; fauna of, 94; religion of, 95, 96.

_Bali_, a town hall, 477.

Bamboo, used by the Malays, 86.

Banana, tree and fruit described, 84, 85; native name for, 159; different kinds, _ib._

Banca, description and geology of, 534; income of, 535.

Banda, author arrives at, 128; and revisits, 214; description of the group, 214, 215; early inhabitants of, 216; religion of, _ib._; natives of, exterminated by the Dutch, 217; convicts banished to, 217, 218; the group only walls of a crater, 224; compared with that of the Tenger Mountains, _ib._; nutmeg parks on, 227; residency of, 242.

Banteng, the _Bos sondaicus_, 72.

Bantiks, a people near Menado, 343.

Barros, Jão de, history of, 97, _note_; his description of Celebes, 97; describes the many languages spoken in the Moluccas, 163; his description of the Bandas, 215, 216.

Barus, a port in Sumatra, 442.

Batavia, purpose of going to, 13; foundation of, 24; police of, 383.

Batta, grave of a, 417; Lands, a description of, 423; are cannibals, 424; referred to by Marco Polo, 425; by Sir Stamford Raffles, _ib._; draw the author’s carriage, 426, 427; author visits a village of, 440; houses of, _ib._; eat a man, 442; missionaries among, 443; Madame Pfeiffer among, 444; kill two American missionaries, 445; origin of their cannibal customs, 446.

Barbosa, Odoardo, cited, 63; history of, 100, _note_; describes the natives of Celebes, 100.

Bears, of Sumatra, 510, 511.

Bencoolen, bay of, 486; history of, 487, 489.

Benzoin, a resin, 63.

Betel-nut; tree described, 180; mode of chewing the, 181.

Birds.— Bird that guarded the double cocoa-nut tree, 15; of Java, 80, 81; trade in, on the coast of New Guinea, 242; luris, _ib._; crown pigeons (_Megapodiideæ_), 242; doves (_Columba ænea_ and _Columba perspicillata_), fruit planted by, 243; of paradise found at Aru Islands, 244; Pigafetta’s account of, _ib._; kingfishers at the Bandas, 246; _Pitta vigorsi_, a rare species, _ib._; _Carpophaga luctuosa_, a white dove, 255, 268; the prince parrot (_Platycercus hypophonius_), description of, _ib._; luris, red (_Eos rubra_), 256, 259; kingfishers at Buru, 258; hunting luris, 259; parrakeets, _ib._; _Trichoglossus cyanogrammus_, _ib._; luris, Moore’s description of, 260; _Tanygnathus macrorynchus_, a large, green parrot, 268; _Carpophaga perspicillata_, a long-tailed dove, _ib._; _Muscicapidæ_, _ib._; _Monarcha loricata_, _ib._; _Tropidorynchus bouruensis_, 269; _Anas rajah_, or “prince duck,” 283; author incurs great danger in procuring, _ib._; _castori rajah_, 289; _Megapodius Forsteni_, _ib._; _M. Wallacei_, _ib._; mode of shooting, skinning, and preserving, 288, 289; _Corvus enka_, 335; _Dicrurus_, _ib._

Birgos latro, the great hermit crab, 148.

Bleeker, Dr., on the geology of Laitimur, 247; on the ichthyology of Lake Linu, 344.

Blood-suckers, author tortured by, 492, 493, 508.

Boats, with outriggers, 57; see also _leper-leper_.

Bonang, the, described, 190.

Bonoa, situation of, 253.

Bosche, Governor Van den; entertains the author at Padang, 387.

_Bos sondaicus_; the ox of Madura, 72.

Bread-fruit, tree and fruit described, 92.

Breech-loader, Sharpe’s, 43.

Bridge, suspension, made of rattan, 428, 430; of bamboo, 474; of rattan, 475.

Bua, valley of, 462; cave of, 463, 464.

Buffalo, the, described, 35; habits of, 35, 36; color of, 36; fights with tigers, 36; wild ones in Sumatra, 413.

Buru, described, 256; history of, 270, 271; Alfura of, and their customs and belief, 271-273; alternation of seasons in, 298.

Buton, description and geology of, 380, 381.

C.

Camphor-trees, described, 433; kinds of, _ib._

Cannibals; mode of eating men, 444; see also Battas.

Cassowary, eggs of, 150; habitat of the, _ib._

Cauto, Diogo de, history of, 98, _note_; his description of Celebes, 98, 99.

Celebes; description and history of, 97-100; northern peninsula of, 322; gold-mines in, 379; fauna of, 380.

Cemetery, Chinese, at Batavia, 35.

Ceram, described, 201, 202; head-hunters of, 203; Alfura, _ib._; landing on the south coast of, 207; alternation of seasons in, 298.

Ceram-laut, natives of, 242; elevation of, 243.

_Cervus rufa_, 80; _mantjac_, _ib._

Chair, to travel in, described, 141, 142.

Chilachap, port of, 57.

Christmas Island, passed, 13.

Cinnamon, kinds of, and their distribution, 425.

Cleft, of Padang Panjang, 390-392, 459, 460.

Clove, tree and fruit described, 153; distribution of, 153, 154; quantities obtained in previous years, 153; mode of gathering the, 155; names for, 156; history of, 157; yield of, in Saparua, Haruku, and Nusalaut, 197.

_Clypeastridæ_, abundant at Saparua, 186.

Coal, near Siboga, 436; near Bencoolen, 492-495; abundance of, 494; on the Limatang, 521; on the Inem, 524.

Cock-fighting, Malay passion for, 61.

Cocoa-nut, the double, 14; palm, described, 81-83; oil, mode of making, 83; kind eaten by Malays, 82, 83; importance of, 84; beaches lined with trees of, 149; a portable fountain, _ib._; abundance of, on the upper Limatang, 523; rafts of, _ib._

Cocoa-trees at Amboina, 138; history of, 138, 139.

Coffee, store-houses for, at Menado, 346; history of, 347-349; how brought to Padang and when sold, 453; exports to the United States, 455, and Appendix D.; where large quantities could be profitably raised, 504, 505.

_Coir_, a rope made of gomuti fibres, 370.

Controleur, duties of, 67; in Ceram summons the head-hunters, 203.

Cooking, Eastern mode of, 31.

Coral, _Meandrinas_, or “brain corals,” 285; different kinds of, and appearance beneath the sea, 286-287; _Fungidæ, Gorgonias_, raised reefs, 508.

Cotton, raised by the natives on the Limatang, 527.

Crawfurd, Mr. John, cited, 96; in regard to Mount Tomboro, 108.

D.

Damma, described, 126; hot springs in, 126, 127.

Deer, author hunts, on Buru, 290-292; their venison smoked and made into _dinding_, 292; _Axis maculata_, 387; hunted by tigers, 413.

Dias, Bartholomew, his discovery of southern extremity of Africa, 22.

Dilli, city of, 122; name whence derived, 124.

Diving, skilful, 103.

_Draco volans_, described, 144.

Dugong found at Aru Islands, 244.

_Duku_, the, described, 90.

Durian tree and fruit described, 91, 92.

E.

Earl, Mr., cited in regard to a plateau, 95; people near Dilli, 116.

Earthquake, experienced by the author at Amboina, 167-169; diseases caused by several, 169, 170.

Elephants, native mode of killing, 495; author comes near a stray one, 513; distribution of, _ib._

Elizabeth, Queen; her letter to the rajah of Achin, 449, _note_.

Eugene Sue, describes Rahden Saleh, 38.

Exquisite, an Eastern, described, 42.

F.

_Feest Kakian_, a revel of the head-hunters, 210.

Fever, Batavia, described, 39.

Fishes; large one caught at Limbi, 332; _Ophiocephalus striatus_, 354; _Anabas scandens_, _ib._; _Anguilla Elphinstonei_, _ib._

Fishing, boats used by Malays, 52; Malay mode of, 329.

Floris described, 111; cannibals of, _ib._

Flying-fish, 106; can fly during a calm, 122.

Forest, home in a tropical, 261; nature’s highway through, 263.

Fountain, “youth’s radiant,” quoted from Moore, 297.

_Fringilla oryzivora_, the rice-bird, 80.

G.

_Gallus bankiva_, 60, 61; other species of, 60.

Galunggong, Mount; eruption of, 75, 76; compared with the Tenger Mountains, 77.

_Gambang_, of Java, 190.

Gambling, Malay vice of, 61.

Geology, of Timur, near Kupang, 119, 120; of the Banda group, 241; of Amboina, 247; of Buru, 263, 293; of Bachian, 299; of the Minahassa, 376; of Gorontalo, 379; of Buton, 381; of a cliff at Tapanuli Bay, 441; of the Padang plateau, 477; of the cliffs of Bencoolen Bay, 489, 490; of the region near Tebing Tingi, 508; of the region of the upper Limatang, 522; of Banca, 534.

Gillibanta, passed, 187.

Gilolo, west coast of, 310; Alfura of, 311; “the bloodhounds” of, _ib._

Goitre, prevalent in the interior of Sumatra, 416; probable cause of, _ib._

Gold-mines in Celebes, 379; geological age of, _ib._; mines in Sumatra, 404-406; distribution of, 406; ornaments of, 431, 432; mode of obtaining, 432.

_Gomuti_ palm, fibres of, 360; made into a rope, 370; _tuak_ or wine of, 371.

Goram, situation of, 243.

Gorontalo, bay of, 377; country and tribes near, 378.

Gresik, village of, 56.

Gunong Api, of Sapi Strait, 106, 107; of Banda, 214-219; author ascends, 228; description of, 228-234; account of eruptions of, 237; the one near Wetta, 245; of Banda compared to Ternate, 317.

H.

Haruku, one of the Uliassers, 178; north coast of, 182; population and description of, _ib._

Head-hunters, of Ceram, 203; clothing, 203, 204; dance of, _ib._; of Sawai Bay, 205, 206.

Hinduism, history of, 62.

Hitu, a part of Amboina, 130; remarkable appearance of hills on, 131; excursion along the coast of, 141.

Horse, author thrown from a, 341; of Sumatra, 409.

Hospital, at Batavia, 39.

Houtman, commander of first Dutch fleet to the East, 24; arrives at Ternate, 307.

_Hukom_, _Biza_, _Kadua_, _Tua_, and _Kachil_, meaning of, 338.

Hunting in the tropics, 139.

I.

Ice, used in the East, 31; whence brought, and where manufactured, 31.

Inkfish, an _Octopus_, author dines on, 172.

J.

Java, Sea, 19; meaning of the word, 21; described by Ludovico Barthema, 23; compared with Cuba, 77-79; description of, 77, 78; population of, 78; imports and exports, 79; forests, _ib._; fauna, 79-81; flora, 81-89; separated from Sumatra and Bali, 93, 94.

Jewels, from the heads of wild boars, 151; Rumphius’s account of, 152.

Jukes, Mr., cited on the geology of Sandal-wood Island, 112; Timur, 119.

Junghuhn, Dr., cited, 52, 53, 109.

K.

_Kampong_, a, described, 132.

Kayéli, bay of, 256; village of, 257; description of, 269; history of, 270; a threatening fleet arrives off, 283.

_Kayu-puti_, trees and oil described, 282, 283; distribution of, 283.

Kema, village of, 323; great python killed near, 334.

Ki, some account of the group, 243.

Kissa, described, 125.

Klings, whence their name, 63; early voyages of, to the archipelago, 405.

Kloff, Captain; describes the natives of Kissa, 125.

Korinchi, reformers of, 471.

Kubus, the tribe of, described, 533.

Kupang, village of, 113; bay of, _ib._; population of, 114; oranges of, _ib._

L.

_Ladangs_, native gardens, 264.

Lepers, author visits a village of, 343; description of the, 343-346; description of the disease, 345.

_Leper-leper_, a native boat, 165; dangerous voyage in, 165, 166.

Letti, described, 125.

Limatang, river of, 518, 520, 521; author descends, 521-533.

Limbi, an island near Kema, 324; author visits for Babirusa, 324-332.

Living, Eastern mode of, 32.

_Lombok_, the, described, 264.

Lombok, island of, separated from Bali, 93; fauna of, 94; flora, _ib._

Lontar, one of the Banda Islands, 214; shores of, 219; author visits it, 223-227; beautiful nutmeg-groves of, 225.

Lotus, fragrant, 358; land of, by Tennyson, 366.

Lubus, tribe of, 411; habits, 419.

M.

Macassar, harbor of, 100; praus of, 100, 101; city of, 103-105; tombs of princes near, 105.

Madura, a low island, 55; Strait of, 56; cattle of, 60; south coast of, 71; whence its name, _ib._; coffee-trees on, 72; manufacture of salt on, 72.

Magellan, Ferdinand, his discovery of the Spice Islands, 305-307.

Maize, history of, 265-267.

Makian, island of, described, 299; eruptions of, 299, 300.

_Malabrathrum_, a gum, 62.

Malay, first sight of, 18; language of, 20; physical characteristics of, 33, 34; passion for gambling, _ib._; are mostly Mohammedans, _ib._; language affected by the Portuguese, 122; speak many dialects, 162, 163; migrations of, from Gilolo, 313.

Mango, tree and fruit described, 89, 90, 148.

Mangostin, described, 88, 89.

Manindyu, lake of, 397; crater of, 399, 401; village of, _ib._

Marco Polo, his account of Java, 21.

Marriage, feast at Kayéli, 274; Mohammedan laws in regard to, 275; at Amboina, 275-278; Malay ideas of, 279.

Matabella, situation of group, 243; Wallace’s description of, _ib._

Menado, village of, 342; bay of, 346, 351; Tua, an island, 346.

Menangkabau, kingdom of, 394; former capitals of, 468; history of, 469-474; arts in, 472, 473.

Minahassa; the most beautiful spot on the globe, 316; mode of travelling in, 335; population of, and area, 339; cataract in, 356; mud-wells and hot springs in, 358-364; Alfura of, 365; most charming view in, 369; products of, 370, 375; graves of the aborigines of, 373; Christianity and education in, 375; geology of, 376.

Mitarra; small island near Ternate, 317.

Mohammedan religion, first converts to, 51; at Gresik, 56; jealousy, 159; requires the shaving of the head, 273; filing the teeth, 274.

Moluccas, history of the, 146; population and how divided, 195; Catholicism in, 307, 308; Christianity introduced, 308; of what islands composed, 309.

Monkeys, of Sumatra and Java, 408, 409; large troops of, 410; sagacity of, 478; a flock of, 509.

Monsoons, calms during the changing of, 16; name whence derived, 44; east and west, _ib._; rainy, 45; sky thick in the eastern, 120; eastern at Amboina, Ceram, Buru, and New Guinea, 128, 129; western boundary of, 486.

Mosque, Mohammedan, in Samarang, 50.

Mount, Ungarung, 45; Slamat, _ib._; Sumbing, 46; Prau, residence of the gods, 46-48; Japura, 48; Tenger, 73; Bromo, 74; Tomboro, eruption of, 108-110; Tompasso, 357; Singalang, 393; Mérapi, _ib._; Ophir, 404; Seret Mérapi, 420, 422; Lubu Rajah, 423; Sago, 461-468; Talang, 480; Ulu Musi, 499; Dempo, 516.

Mud-wells, in the Minahassa, 359-364.

Müller, Dr. S., ascended Gunong Api of Banda in 1828, 236.

_Musa paradisiaca_, the banana-tree, 85; _textilis_, 340.

N.

Natal, port of, 453.

Nautilus, shells of, purchased at Kupang, 119; said to be common on Rotti, _ib._; those secured at Amboina, 134, 135.

Navigating mud-flats, 57.

Nusalaut, name whence derived, 178; author visits, 187; surrounded by a platform of coral, 187; natives of, in ancient costume, _ib._; description and population of, 188.

Nutmeg-tree, when found, 215; gathered by the natives, 216; description of tree and fruit, 222; mode of curing the fruit, 222, 223.

O.

_Orangbai_, an, described, 136.

Orang-utan, habits of, 408, 409.

Ophir, whence the gold of, 405.

Opium, mode of selling and smoking, 279-282; history of, 280.

P.

Padang, city of, 385; Panjang, 392; Sidempuan, 423.

Padangsche Bovenlanden, or Padang plateau, 390; native houses in, 393; dress of the natives of, 394; author travels in, Chap. XV.; geology of, 477.

_Paddy_, described, 66.

Pagi Islands; natives of, and their habits, 482, 483.

Palembang, author arrives at, 529; description and history of, 530, 531; mosque of, 531; Lama, 532.

_Pandanus_, a screw-pine, 84.

Papandayang, Mount, eruption of, 74, 75.

Papaw, tree and fruit described, 85.

Papua, natives of, 311, 312; taxes levied on, 314; author thinks of going to, 315.

Pasuma, plateau and people of, 516-519.

_Pedatis_, described, 68.

Pepper, an article of trade, 446-448; distribution of and native names for, 447, 448.

Periplus of the Erythræan Sea, 62.

Pigafetta, his account of birds of paradise, 244; account of the Philippines, 308.

Pinã-cloth, how made, 143.

Pine-apples, introduction and history of, 142.

_Piper betel_, leaves of, chewed by the Malays, 181.

Pirates, in the Moluccas, 318; from China, _ib._; from Mindanao, 319; Malays escape from, 320; a surprise of, _ib._; praus of, 321; a challenge from, _ib._; Dutch cruise for, 322.

Plough, kind used by Malays, 36; mode of using, 36, 37.

Pompelmus, a gigantic orange, 19.

Ponies, Javanese, 65.

Post-coaches of Java, 64.

Pumice-stone, great quantities of, 110.

Python, one seen near Kema, 333; stories concerning, 333-336; author presented with one, 537; it escapes, 539; author has a deadly struggle with, 541.

R.

Raffles, Sir Stamford, history of, 488.

Railroads in Java, 49.

_Rambutan_, described, 89.

_Ranjaus_, 86.

Rattan, kinds of, 511; how gathered, 511, 512.

Reef, first coral, visited, 123; author’s boat strikes on one, 183; waves breaking on a, 199.

Reinwardt, Professor, cited, 53; ascended Gunong Api of Banda, in 1821, 236; predicts an eruption, 312.

Rejangs, customs and laws, 496-498.

Reynst, Gerard, arrival at Banda, 236.

Rhinoceros, native pits for, 495; distribution of, 509.

Rice, manner of gathering in Java, 66.

Rivers; Musi and its valley, 499; Inem, 521, 522.

Roads, post, in Java, 64.

Roma, described, 126.

Roses, abundance of, in the Minahassa, 352, 366.

Rotti, island of, 116; people of, _ib._

_Ruma négri_, a public house, 355; beautiful one, 366.

_Ruma, Satan_, or Devil’s Dwelling, author visits, 437-442.

Rumphius; his “Rariteit Kamer” referred to by Linnæus, 13; grave of, 260; sketch of life of, 251.

S.

_Saccharum, sinensis_, 69; _officinarum_, _ib._; _violaceum_, _ib._

Sacrifice, human, 117.

Saleh, Rahden, palace of, 37, 38; manners and acquirements of, 38; described by Eugene Sue, _ib._

Salt, manufacture in Madura, 72; Java, 72, 73; Borneo and Philippines, 73; quantity of, _ib._; prices of, 73, _note_.

Samarang, arrive at, 45; described, 48.

_Sambal_, described, 32.

Sandal-wood Island, description of, 113; horses of, _ib._

Sandy Sea, the, 74.

Saparua, name whence derived, 178; island described, 184; history, _ib._; town of, 184, 185; bay of, 186.

_Sapi_, described, 60.

Sarong, description of the, 18, 34.

Sawai bay, people of, 205.

_Sawas_, described, 66; fertility of, 67.

Schneider, Dr., cited, 120, 247.

Schools, in the Spice Islands, 193; how supported, _ib._; welcome to the Resident, 194; classes of, 195.

Sclater, Mr., cited, 94.

Semao, island of, 113.

Sequiera, first brings Portuguese into Eastern Archipelago, 23.

Shells, collecting, at Kupang, 117-119; _Trochus marmoratus_, 175; _Strombus latissimus_, 176; _Scalaria preciosa_, 185; _Cypræa moneta_, 186; best place in the Spice Islands to gather, 198; harp, _ib._; _Mitra episcopalis_ and _papalis_, 199; _Tridacna gigas_, found on hills, 248; _Auricula_ in Ceram, 255; _Rostellaria rectirostris_, _ib._

Siboga, author comes to the village of, 434; country about, 435 _et seq._; coal near, 436.

Singapore, history and description of, 536.

Sinkara, lake of, 476; kampong, _ib._

Siri, Malay name for the _Piper betel_, 181.

Snakes, swimming, 14.

Springs, Damma, 126; in Java, 127; hot, in the Minahassa, 360-364.

Strait, Sunda, 13-19; Sapi, passed through, 106-108.

_Styrax benzoin_, described, 63.

Sugar-cane, kinds of, 69; history of, 69, 70.

Sugar-Loaf Island, passed, 121.

Sulphur, from volcanoes, 53.

Sumatra, grand mountains of, 43; author travels in, 384-532; Dutch army in, 456; Hinduism in, 471; Mohammedanism in, 471; unimproved areas in, 502; true source of the wealth of, 505.

Sumbawa, seen, 107; Mount Tomboro in, 108.

Sundanese, a language of Java, 25.

Surabaya; business of, 56; shipping at, _ib._; harbor of, 57; situation of, _ib._; population of, _ib._; dock-yard, 58; machine-shops, _ib._; artillery works, 59; streets of, 60.

Surakarta, residence of Javanese princes, 26.

Surf, on south coast of Ceram, 208; revolt in, 257.

T.

_Tandu_, a, described, 49.

Tanjong O, feared by the natives, 200; Flasco, beautiful sunset seen at, 377.

Tapanuli, bay of, 434, 436; geology of a cliff near, 441; natives that come to the bay of, 448.

Teak, durability of, and different purposes used for, 59; abundant in Java, 79; distribution of, 267.

Telegraph-lines in Java and Sumatra, 65.

Tenger Mountains, seen, 73; Sandy Sea in, 74; Bromo in, _ib._; compared with the Bandas, 241.

Ternate, island and village of, described, 300, 303, 304; history and account of the eruptions of, 300-309; the prince of, and his territory, 309, 310; trade of, 315; author experiences four earthquakes at, in four days, 316; houses of foreigners at, 317.

Tidore, peak and village of, 312, 313; prince of, 313.

_Tifa_; a kind of drum, 137; discordant sounds of, 179; mode of beating, 180.

Tigers, ravages of, 413; native traps for, 491; natives destroyed, 503, 504; fight with a bear, 510; abundance of, 513-517.

Timur, different races on, 115; southeast monsoon in, _ib._; northwestern coast of, 121.

Timur-laut, described, 127; natives of, at Banda, 218.

Tin, distribution of, 535.

Tobacco, history of, 265, 266.

Tondano, lake of, 367, 368; village of, 368; Klabat, mantled with clouds, 369; tragedy occurred near, 372.

Trees.— Upas, 54; _Antiaris toxicaria_, 54, 55; anchar, 55; _Artocarpus incisa_, and _integrifolia_, 92, 93; _Carophyllus aromaticus_, the clove, 153; Palmyra palm, 222; _Borassus flabelliformis_, _ib._; _Myristica moschata_, the nutmeg, _ib._; _Tectona grandis_, the teak, 267.

_Tripang_, described, 101-103.

U.

Uliassers described, 178.

V.

Valentyn, his description of an earthquake wave, 240; history of Buru, 270; history of Ternate, 304; describes the eruption of Mount Kemaas, 336, 337.

Valley of Poison, 53.

Van Dijk, cited, 476, 492, 494.

Vidua, Carlo de, sinks in a solfatara, 354.

_Viverra musanga_, 79, 80.

W.

Wakasihu, visit to the village of, 161-164; rajah of, 161; shells gathered at, 162.

Wallace, A. R., cited, 94, 95; list of the birds of paradise, 314, _note_.

Wetta, described, 124.

Wilkinson, Sir Gardner, cited, 62.

X.

Xavier, St. Francis, visits the Moluccas, 307.

Z.

Zoological gardens, at Batavia, 38; at Samarang, 60.

THE END.

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