Travels in Southern Europe and the Levant, 1810-1817 The Journal of C. R. Cockerell, R.A.

"On the 1st of May we reached Adalia (or Satalia). It stands on a plain which breaks abruptly into the sea and looks very rich and Oriental from a distance. Considering the way...

"Two days' riding down the river brought us to Nasli Bazar, which is within the government of Karasman Oglu, and the fact was at once perceptible. Greeks were numerous and impud...

ATHENS--THE EXCAVATION OF MARBLES AT BASSÆ--BRONSTEDT'S MISHAP--FATE OF THE CORINTHIAN CAPITAL OF BASSÆ--SEVERE ILLNESS--STACKELBERG'S MISHAP--TRIP TO ALBANIA WITH HUGHES AND PA...

LIFE IN SMYRNA--TRIP TO TRIOS--FOSTER FALLS IN LOVE--COCKERELL STARTS ALONE FOR TOWN OF SEVEN CHURCHES--PERGAMO--KNIFNICH--SUMEH--COMMERCE ALL IN THE HANDS OF GREEKS--KARASMAN O...

ÆGINA MARBLES CALLED FOR BY BRITISH GOVERNMENT SHIPS--LEAVES ATHENS FOR CRETE AND EGYPT WITH HON. FRANCIS NORTH--CANEA--CONDITION OF CRETE--BY LAND--RETIMO--KALIPO CHRISTO--CAND...

With one exception there were no Englishmen, artists or others, in Naples at that time, but a number of Frenchmen, with some of whom Cockerell struck up a great intimacy. In spi...

ATHENS--TO ZANTE FOR SALE OF PHIGALEIAN MARBLES--RETURNS TO ATHENS--FEVER--SPENCER STANHOPE--TRIP TO MARATHON, ETC.--RAMAZAN--LIVING OUT IN THE COUNTRY--A PICNIC AT SALAMIS--PRE...

ALI PASHA--PSALLIDA--EUPHROSYNE--MUKHTAR--STARTS FOR A TRIP TO SULI--CASSIOPEIA--UNABLE TO FORD RIVER--TURNS BACK TO JANINA--LEAVES TO RETURN TO ATHENS--CROSSES THE PINDUS THROU...

"We had nothing but west winds, very unfavourable for us. Meltern, as this wind is called, follows the rim of the coast of Asia Minor, being north in the Archipelago, west along...

Cockerell's mother had wished him to take out an English manservant with him, but the common sense of the rest of the family had overruled this scheme. He writes, therefore, spe...

"On the second day we started on our expedition to visit the Labyrinth. It was delightful to get away from a place where we were little better than State prisoners, unable to go...

"The Mainiote border comes to within half a mile of Kalamata, and the neighbourhood of its ferocious population, who are as savage and even braver than the Turks, makes the latt...

"I started from London on Saturday, April the 14th, 1810, with 200l. in my pocket to pay expenses. By the favour of Mr. Hamilton I was to carry out despatches to Mr. Adair, our...

"My first few days were spent in writing, executing commissions, and fitting out my good Cannady, who was to return with the answers to the despatches; all as it turned out to n...

"Hitherto we had had an anxious time, but once they were landed we felt at ease about the marbles. Henceforth the business is in Gropius' hands. The auction has been announced i...

"I told you we were going to make a tour in the Morea, but before doing so we determined to see the remains of the temple at Ægina, opposite Athens, a three hours' sail. Our par...

About the middle of September, Cockerell, with Ingilby[14] and Foster, set sail for Greece. They stopped on their way to pay a visit to the Plain of Troy. The facilities for tra...

"We left the stylæ and went down to Andritzena by a shorter road. In going up, the drivers, to be able to charge us more, had taken us round a longer way. Andritzena is not only...

My father was now in for a long stay in the country, and seeing something more of it than the usual tourist, even of those days. One or two entries from his diary give one a sli...

Life in Smyrna--Trip to Trios--Foster falls in love--Cockerell starts alone for town of Seven Churches--Pergamo--Knifnich-- Sumeh--Commerce all in the hands of Greeks--Karasman...

Ali Pasha--Psallida--Euphrosyne--Mukhtar--Starts for a trip to Suli--Cassiopeia--Unable to ford river--Turns back to Janina--Leaves to return to Athens--Crosses the Pindus throu...

Athens--To Zante for sale of Phigaleian Marbles--Returns to Athens--Fever--Spencer Stanhope--Trip to Marathon, &c.--Ramazan --Living out in the country--A picnic at Salamis--Pre...

Ægina Marbles called for by British Government ships--Leaves Athens for Crete and Egypt with Hon. Francis North--Canea--Condition of Crete--By land--Retimo--Kalipo Christo--Cand...

Athens--The excavation of marbles at Bassæ--Bronstedt's mishap--Fate of the Corinthian capital of Bassæ--Severe illness--Stackelberg's mishap --Trip to Albania with Hughes and P...

Back into civilisation--Nasli Bazar--Nysa--Guzul--Hissar (Magnesia)--The plague--Aisaluck (Ephesus)--Scala Nuova--A storm --Samos--Priene--Canna--Geronta--Knidos--Rhodes--Mr. No...