Category: Travel Writing

Travels in southern Abyssinia, Volume 1 (of 2)

Reception in Tajourah.—Arrangements for our 36 stay.—Occupation.—Amusements.—Geological character of the country.—Engaging camels for the journey.—Customs of the townspeople.—Public buildings.—Religious ceremonies, law, and justice.

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I.

2. CHAPTER II.

3. CHAPTER III.

Reception in Tajourah.—Arrangements for our 36 stay.—Occupation.—Amusements.—Geological character of the country.—Engaging camels for the journey.—Customs of the townspeople.—Pu...

4. CHAPTER IV.

Reception of visitors by the Sultaun of 61 Tajourah.—Arrival from Shoa of Demetrius and Joannes.—Ruins and remains of antiquity.—Preparations for our departure.—The day fixed fo...

5. CHAPTER V.

6. CHAPTER VI.

7. CHAPTER VII.

8. CHAPTER VIII.

9. CHAPTER IX.

Staying at Allulee.—Amusements.—More camels join our 148 Kafilah.—Introduced to Ohmed Medina.—Journey to Gurguddee.—Halt for the night.—Murder of a slave.—March to Khrabtu.—Proc...

10. CHAPTER X.

11. CHAPTER XI.

12. CHAPTER XII.

Conversation with Ohmed Medina respecting the course of 195 the river Hawash.—Description of that river.—Its termination in Lake Abhibhad.—The various watersheds of the basin of...

13. CHAPTER XIII.

14. CHAPTER XIV.

15. CHAPTER XV.

16. CHAPTER XVI.

17. CHAPTER XVII.

Stay at Herhowlee.—Dankalli sell their female children for slaves.—Pillar of sand and cloud of fire indications of rain.—Engage escort of Hy Soumaulee.—Comparison between modern...

18. CHAPTER XVIII.

Stay at Barradudda.—Milk diet.—Wound myself by 271 accidental discharge of my gun.—Bedouin skirmish.—Mode of warfare among the Dankalli.—Compensation for wounds and injured prop...

19. CHAPTER XIX.

20. CHAPTER XX.

21. CHAPTER XXI.

Purchase tobacco, with remarks on its use among the 313 Dankalli.—Make cover for hat.—Conversation with Ohmed Medina.—Journey to Bundurah.—Singular effect of refraction.—Joined...

22. CHAPTER XXII.

Journey to Kuditee.—Territory of the 331 Wahama.—Description of halting-ground.—Meet with party of friends returning from Shoa.—Strange request.—Custom of incising skin with sha...

23. CHAPTER XXIII.

Journey to Hiero Murroo.—False alarm at 345 starting.—Necessity for being prepared for strife in Adal.—Abu Bukeree, Sheik of the second Debenee tribe.—Old friend of Lieut. Barke...

24. CHAPTER XXIV.

Delay in giving up the recovered stores.—Interview with 360 father of Mahomed Allee.—Accompany him to kraal.—Entertainment there.—Condition of the stores.—Murder in our camp.—Oc...

25. CHAPTER XXV.

Journey to Mettah.—Conversation upon different roads 380 through Adal to Shoa.—Commercial jealousy between the Muditu and the Dankalli.—Battle of Hihillo.—Surprise sleeping frie...

26. CHAPTER XXVI.

Journey to Murroo.—Remarks upon the climate of 391 Adal.—Pass some small extinct volcanoes.—A little farriery.—Cautions for practitioners of medicine resident among the Dankalli...

27. CHAPTER XXVII.

28. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Journey to Sakeitaban.—Visit to Durtee Ohmed.—Halt at 418 Sakeitaban.—Proceed to Mullu.—Bad road.—Threats of assassination.—Shields of the Dankalli, and care of their arms.—Arri...

29. CHAPTER XXIX.

Journey to Annee.—Proceed over Plain of Mullu.—Halt in 431 sight of Berdudda.—Muditu kraal and funeral.—Hare hunt.—Arrive at Annee.—Muditu visitors.—Moonlight scene.—Stay at Ber...

30. CHAPTER XXX.

Journey to How.—Aleekduggee Sageer.—Immense 445 Kafilah.—Water-cure for determination of blood to the head.—Attack of the Galla.—Display of forces.—Ras ul Kafilah balances profi...

31. CHAPTER XXXI.

Journey to Mulkukuyu.—Forest on the right bank of the 455 Hawash.—The ford of Mulkukuyu.—Passage of the river.—Congratulations.—Scorpion hunting.—Visit the Hippopotamus lake.—Jo...

32. CHAPTER XXXII.

Journey from Azbotee to Dinnomalee.—Start with escort 474 in the night.—Pass Sheik’s tomb.—Reach Kokki.—Wahama town.—Arrive at Dinnomalee.—Detained by Custom-house officers.—Get...

33. CHAPTER I.

Arrival in Aden.—Preparations for my journey into Africa.—Departure for Tajourah.—Stay in that town.—Unsuccessful endeavours to proceed farther.—Return to Aden.—Time, from 24th...

34. CHAPTER II.

BERBERAH is situated on the same coast of the sea of Babel Mandeb, but about 130 miles to the eastward of Tajourah. It is remarkable for having been a mart for the exchange of A...

35. CHAPTER III.

Reception in Tajourah.—Arrangements for our stay.—Occupation.—Amusements.—Geological character of the country.—Engaging camels for the journey.—Customs of the townspeople.—Publi...

36. CHAPTER IV.

Reception of visitors by the Sultaun of Tajourah.—Arrival in that town, from Shoa, of Demetrius and Joannes.—Ruins and remains of antiquity.—Preparations for our departure.—The...

37. CHAPTER V.

WE first passed a small stream which a shower among the hills during the preceding night had produced, and which was now running directly into the sea: then the well, with the u...

38. CHAPTER VI.

Staying at Dulhull.—March 31st, Journey to Segallo, distance one and a-half miles, general direction S.S.W.—Halt for the night.—Journey to Daddahue, distance ten miles, general...

39. CHAPTER VII.

Leave Daddahue.—Journey through the Rah Issah to Bulhatoo, distance seven miles, general direction, W. S. W. and S.—Halt for the night.—Journey from Bulhatoo to Dafarrè, distanc...

40. CHAPTER VIII.

The Salt Lake.—Journey to Gunguntur, distance from Aleex’ Shaitan, ten miles, general direction, W. S. W.—Scene of the murder of three Soldiers of the British Mission, in 1840.—...

41. CHAPTER IX.

Staying at Allulee.—Amusements.—More camels join our Kafilah.—Introduced to a new-comer, Ohmed Medina.—Journey to Gurguddee, time marching one hour and a-half, direction S. W.—H...

42. CHAPTER X.

Journey from Saggadarah.—Reach Bellad Hy, time marching, four hours, general direction S.S.W.—Halt for the night.—Journey to Ramudalee, time marching, seven hours, general direc...

43. CHAPTER XI.

Staying at Ramudalee.—Himyah and his matchlock.—Chase of a hyæna.—Visitors from the Debenee tribe.—Guinea-fowl shooting.—Ahkeem shooting.—Arrival of Lohitu, Chief of the Debenee...

44. CHAPTER XII.

Conversation with Ohmed Medina respecting the course of the river Hawash.—Description of that river.—Its termination in Lake Abhibhad.—The various watersheds of the basin of the...

45. CHAPTER XIII.

Leave Gobard for Arabderah.—View of Lake Abhibhad from the ridge of San-karl.—General direction of march south, time occupied two and a-half hours.—March to Saggagahdah, general...

46. CHAPTER XIV.

THE plain of Sagagahdah is of considerable extent. It stretches in one straight line from the country of the Issah Soumaulee, in the south-east, to Jibel Obinoe, in the north-we...

47. CHAPTER XV.

Journey from Sagagahdah to Mokoito, general direction W.S.W., time marching four hours.—Meet old friends.—Conversation upon origin of the Dankalli people.—Journey from Mokoito t...

48. CHAPTER XVI.

Journey from Ahmahguloff to Koranhedudah, general direction S.W., time occupied three hours.—Pass Jibel Obinoe.—Plain of Amardu.—Account of myrrh-tree.—Description of halting-pl...

49. CHAPTER XVII.

Staying at Herhowlee.—Dankalli sell their female children for slaves.—Pillar of sand and cloud of fire indications of rain.—Engage escort of thirty Hy Soumaulee. Comparison betw...

50. CHAPTER XVIII.

DURING the evening of our first day’s halt at Barradudda, a party of the women of Herhowlee came into camp, bearing upon their loins, in the usual fashion, large skins of milk....

51. CHAPTER XIX.

Journey from Barradudda to Thermadullah, general direction south by west, time marching three hours and a-half.—Quarrel with Ras ul Kafilah.—Cooking scene.—Dankalli improvisator...

52. CHAPTER XX.

Journey from Thermaduddah to Alee-bakalee, general direction, south by west, time marching, one hour.—_May 1st._ Journey from Alee-bakalee to Hasanderah, general direction, sout...

53. CHAPTER XXI.

Purchase of some tobacco, with remarks on its use among the Dankalli.—Make cover for hat.—Conversation with Ohmed Mahomed.—_May 3_, Journey from Hasanderah to Bundurah.—General...

54. CHAPTER XXII.

Journey from Bundurah to Kuditee, general direction south-west, time marching, four hours.—Territory of the Wahama.—Description of halting-ground.—Meet with party of friends ret...

55. CHAPTER XXIII.

Journey from Kuditee to Hiero Murroo, general direction west by south, time marching one hour and a-half.—False alarm at starting.—Necessity for being prepared for strife in Ada...

56. CHAPTER XXIV.

Delay in giving up the recovered stores.—Interview with father of Mahomed Allee.—Accompany him to a kraal.—Entertainment there.—Condition of the stores.—Murder in our camp.—Occu...

57. CHAPTER XXV.

Journey from Hiero Murroo to Mettah.—General direction, W.S.W., time marching four hours and a-half.—Conversation upon different roads through Adal to Shoa.—Commercial jealousy...

58. CHAPTER XXVI.

Journey from Mettah to Murroo, general direction, W.S.W., time marching, three hours and a-half.—Remarks upon the climate of Adal.—Pass some small extinct volcanoes.—A little fa...

59. CHAPTER XXVII.

EVERY morning I accompanied Himyah with his matchlock, after the numerous herds of antelope that came in sight. On one occasion, I slightly wounded a fine doe, which, getting aw...

60. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Journey from Murroo to Sakeitaban, general direction, W.S.W., time marching, one hour.—Visit to Durtee Ohmed.—Halt for short time at Sakeitaban.—Proceed to Mullu, general direct...

61. CHAPTER XXIX.

Journey from Mullu to Annee, general direction, W.S.W., time marching, six hours.—Proceed over Plain of Mullu.—Halt in sight of Berdudda.—Muditu kraal and funeral.—Hare hunt.—Ar...

62. CHAPTER XXX.

Journey from Annee to How, general direction W.S.W., time marching six hours.—Aleekduggee Sageer.—Immense Kafilah.—Water-cure for determination of blood to the head.—Attack of t...

63. CHAPTER XXXI.

Journey from How to Mulkukuyu, general direction south-west, time marching, four hours and a-half.—Forest on right bank of Hawash.—The ford of Mulkukuyu.—Passage of the river.—C...

64. CHAPTER XXXII.

Journey from Azbotee to Dinnomalee, general direction, W.N.W., time marching, seven hours.—Start with escort in the night.—Pass Sheik’s tomb.—Reach Kokki.—Short halt.—Wahama tow...