Part 1
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TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,
FROM
MODERN WRITERS.
_Pub^d. by Harvey & Darton,_
_Jan^y. 1, 1823._
TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,
FROM
Modern Writers.
WITH
REMARKS AND OBSERVATIONS;
EXHIBITING A CONNECTED VIEW OF
THE GEOGRAPHY AND PRESENT STATE
OF THAT
QUARTER OF THE GLOBE.
BY THE
REV. WILLIAM BINGLEY, M. A. F. L. S.
_Late of Peter-house, Cambridge, and Author of Animal Biography, &c._
DESIGNED FOR THE USE OF YOUNG PERSONS.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR HARVEY AND DARTON, GRACECHURCH-STREET.
1821.
ADVERTISEMENT.
In the preparation of this, and of the preceding volumes, of Travels in the South of Europe, in South America, and in Africa; as well as in the Biographical Conversations on Celebrated Voyagers and Travellers, it has been the design of the author, by a detail of anecdotes of extraordinary adventures, connected by illustrative remarks and observations, to allure young persons to a study of geography, and to the attainment of a knowledge of the character, habits, customs, and productions of foreign nations. The whole is supposed to be related in a series of daily instructions, from a parent to his children.
The "Biographical Conversations on Celebrated Travellers," contain a further account of the United States and of Canada, in Professor's Kalm's Travels through those countries; and of the northern regions of America, in the Narratives of Hearne's Journeys from Hudson's Bay, to the Northern Ocean.
The vignette represents the natural arch, called Rockbridge, described in page 102.
_Charlotte Street, Bloomsbury, London, 22d July, 1821._
INDEX OF THE COUNTRIES, AND PRINCIPAL PLACES AND OBJECTS DESCRIBED.
Page
NORTH AMERICA in General, 1
UNITED STATES in General, 3
_Account of New York and its vicinity._
Inhabitants of New York, 12--Situation, Streets, Population, Hotels, 13--Stores, Public Buildings, Columbia College, 14--Town Hall, Trades and Professions, 15--House-rent, Provisions, Religion, Courts of Law, 16--Long Island, New Jersey, River Hudson, Newark, Fishkill, Steam-boats, 17--Emigrants, 18.
_Narrative of Fearon's Journey from New York to Boston._
New Haven, 18--New London, Norwich, New Providence, 19-- Pawtucket, Boston, 20--Bunker's Hill, Cambridge, Harvard College, 21.
_Weld's Voyage up the River Hudson, from New York to Lake Champlain._
River Hudson, 22--West Point, Albany, 23--River Mohawk, Cohoz Waterfall, Saratoga, 25--Skenesborough, Lake Champlain, 26--Ticonderoga, Crown Point, 27.
_Hall's Journey from Canada to the Cataract of Niagara._
Prescott, 28--River St. Lawrence, Lake Ontario, Kingston, 29--Sackett's Harbour, Watertown, Utica, 30--Skaneactas, Waterloo, Geneva, Canandaigua, Burning Spring, 32--Rochester, 33--Lewistown, Queenston, 34--York, Ancaster, Mohawk Indians, 35--Mohawk Village, 36--Falls of Niagara, 37.
_Hall's Journey from Niagara to Philadelphia._
Fort Erie, Buffalo, Batavia, Caledonia, 41--Genesee River, Bath, Painted Post, 42--Susquehanna River, Wilksbarre, 43--Wyoming, Blue Ridge, Bethlehem, Nazareth, 44--Moravians, 45--Lehigh Mountain, German Town, 46.
_Description of Philadelphia._
Streets, Houses, 46--Shops, Wharfs, Water-Street, Public Buildings, 47--State-house, University, Prison, 48--Markets, Inhabitants, 49--Funerals, Climate, 50--Carriages, 51-- Taverns, 52--Delaware River, Schuylkil River, 53.
Trenton, College, 53--Residence of Joseph Buonaparte, 54.
_Fearon's Journey from Philadelphia to Pittsburg._
Great Valley, Mines, 54--Lancaster, Harrisburgh, Carlisle, Chambersburgh, 55--London, Waggons, North Mountain, 56--Bloody Run, Bedford, Dry Ridge, Alleghany Mountains, Inhabitants, Log-houses, 57--Laurel Hill, Little Chesnut Ridge, Greensburg, Turtle Creek Hill, Inhabitants, 58-- Pittsburg, 59--Manufactures, 60--Climate, American Population, 61--Farms, Emigration, 62.
_Birkbeck's Expedition from Pittsburg into the Illinois Territory._
Travelling, 63--Cannonsburg, Washington in Pennsylvania, State of Ohio, Wheeling, 64--St. Clairsville, 65--Farms, Zanesville, Rushville, Lancaster, 66--Chillicothe, Pike Town, 67--Hurricane tract, 68--Lebanon, Cincinnati, Schools, 69-- State of Indiana, 70--Camp Tavern, 71--Vincennes, Indians, 72--Princeton, 74--Harmony, Mount Vernon, Big Prairie, 75-- Woods, and Farms, 76--Hunters, Little Wabash, Skillet Fork, 77--Shawnee Town, 78--Harmony, 79--Animals, 80--English Prairie, 81.
_Weld's Excursion from Philadelphia to Washington._
Schuylkil River, Chester, Brandywine River, Wilmington, 82--Elkton, Susquehannah River, Havre de Grace, Baltimore, 83.
_Description of Washington._
Origin, situation, form, Streets, Inhabitants, Capitol, 85--President's House, Post-Office, River Potomac, Tiber, 86--Markets, Shops, Inhabitants, Congress, Senate, 87--Representative Chamber, George Town, 88--Alexandria, Mount Vernon, 89.
_Weld's Journey from Washington to Richmond in Virginia._
Country, 89--Hoe's Ferry, Rappahannoc River, Plantations in Virginia, 90--Tappahannoc or Hob's Hole, Urbanna, 91--Fires in the Woods, 92--Gloucester, York, Williamsburgh, College, 93--Hampton, Chesapeak, Norfolk, 94--Dismal Swamp, James River, 95--Taverns, Petersburgh, Richmond, 96--Falls of the James River, Inhabitants of Virginia, 97.
_Weld's Return from Richmond to Philadelphia._
South-west or Green Mountains, Country and Animals, 98-- Fire-flies, 99--Seat of Mr. Jefferson, Lynchburgh, 100--Peaks of Otter, Fincastle, Soil and Climate, 101--Sweet Springs, Jackson's Mountains, Rockbridge, 102--Maddison's Cave, Emigrants, 103--Lexington, Staunton, Winchester, Potomac River, Stupendous Scene, 104--Frederic, Philadelphia, 105.
_Michaux's Journey from Pittsburgh to Lexington._
Wheeling, River Ohio, 106--Marietta, Point Pleasant, 107--Gallipoli, Alexandria, 108--Limestone, Kentucky, 109--Inhabitants, 110--Mays Lick, Lexington, 111-- Louisville, 112--Caverns in Kentucky, 114.
_Michaux's Journey from Lexington to Charleston._
Vineyards, 114--Kentucky River, Harrodsburgh, Mulder Hill, Barrens or Kentucky Meadows, 115--Nasheville, 117--Cairo, Fort Blount, 118--West Point, Cherokee Indians, 119-- Kingstown, 120--Knoxville, Holstein River, Tavern, Macby, 121--Woods, Log-houses, Greenville, Jonesborough, 122-- Alleghany Mountains, Linneville Mountains, Morganton, 123--Lincolnton, 124--Chester, Winesborough, Columbia, 125--Charleston, 126.
_Description of Charleston._
Situation, Quays, 126--Streets, Houses, 127--Public Buildings, Trees in the Streets, Inhabitants, 128--Vauxhall, Hotels, Market, Provisions, 129--Marshes, 130.
Adjacent country, 130--Raleigh, Newbern, Savannah, in Georgia, 131.
_Bartram's Excursion from Charleston into Georgia and West Florida._
Augusta, 133--Country, fossil shells, Fort James, Dartmouth, 134--Indian monuments, 135--Cherokee Settlements, Sinica, 135 --Keowe, Tugilo river, 136--Sticoe, Cowe, 137--Cherokee Indians, 138--Fort James, 140--Country near the Oakmulge and Flint rivers, Uche, 141--Apalachula, Coweta, Talasse, Coloome, 142--Alabama river, Mobile, Pensacola, 144--Mobile, Pearl river, Manchac, Mississippi river, 145--Mobile, Taensa, 146--Tallapoose river, Alabama, Mucclasse, Apalachula river, Chehau, Usseta, 147--Oakmulge, Ocone river, Ogeche, Augusta, Savannah, 148.
_Mr. Bartram's Journey from Savannah into East Florida._
Sunbury, 148--Fort Barrington, St. Ille's, 149--Savannahs near river St. Mary, River St. Juan, or St. John, Cowford, 150--Plantation, 151--Indian Village, 152 Charlotia or Rolle's Town, Mount Royal, 153--Lake George, Spalding's Upper Store, 154--Adventure with Alligators, 155--Alligators' nests, 157--Lake, Forests, Plantation, Hot Fountain, Upper Store, Cuscowilla, 159--Sand-hills, Half-way Pond, Turtles, Lake of Cuscowilla, 160--Alachuas and Creek or Siminole Indians, 161--Talahasochte, Little St. John's River, 162.
_The River Mississippi._
Source, Length, Banks, 165--Tides, New Orleans, 166--Adjacent Country, Natchez, 167--Navigation of the Mississippi, 168-- New Madrid, the Ohio, Illinois Territory, Kaskaski, 169--St. Louis, 170.
_Pike's Voyage from St. Louis to the Source of the Mississippi._
St. Louis, 170--Illinois River, Buffalo River, Sac Indians, Salt River, 171--Rapids des Moines, Jowa River, Jowa Indians, Rock River, 172--Turkey River, Reynard Indians, Ouisconsin River, Pecant or Winebagoe Indians, 173--Sioux Indians, Prairie des Chiens, 174--Sauteaux or Chippeway River, Scenery of the Mississippi, Sioux village, Canoe. River, St. Croix River, 176--Cannon River, Indian Burying-place, Falls of St. Anthony, 177--Rum River, Red Cedar Lake, Beaver Islands, Corbeau or Raven River, 178--Pine Creek, Lake Clear, Clear River, Winter Quarters, Indians, 179--Falls of the Painted Rock, Pine River, Chippeway Indians, 180--Leech Lake, Pine Creek, 181--Indians, Falls of St. Anthony, Prairie des Chiens, 182--Sioux and Puant Indians, Salt River, 183.
WESTERN TERRITORY OF AMERICA 184
_The River Missouri._
_Lewis and Clarke's Voyage from St. Louis to the Source of the Missouri._
St. Louis, Osage River, Osage Indians, Big Manitou Creek, 185--Kanzes River, Platte River, 186--Pawnee Indians, Ottoe and Missouri Indians, 187--Indian Villages 188--Water of the Missouri, Fruit, Yankton Indians, 189--Teton Indians, 191-- Ricara Indians, Chayenne River, 194--Le Boulet or Cannon-ball River, Mandan Indians, 196--Winter Quarters, 197--Fort Mandan, Ahanaway and Minnetaree Indians, 198--Knife River, 199--Little Missouri, Indian Burying-place, 201--Yellow Stone River, 202 --Porcupine River, Muscle-shell River, 203--Great Falls of the Missouri, 205--Maria's River, 207--Three Forks of the Missouri, 209--Source of the Missouri, 210.
_Lewis and Clarke's Travels from the Source of the Missouri to the Pacific Ocean._
Rocky Mountains, 210--Mountainous Country, Indians, 211-- Travellers' Rest Creek, Koos-koos-kee River, Chopunnish Indians, 213--Shoshonees and Snake Indians, 214--Pierced-nose Indians, 217--Indian Fisheries, 218--Solkuk Indians, 218-- Columbia or Oregan River, Echeloot Indians, 219--The Pacific Ocean, Indians in the Vicinity of the Coast, 221.
_Lewis and Clarke's Return from the Pacific Ocean to St. Louis._
Rocky Mountains, 225--Travellers' Rest Creek, Clarke's River, Maria's River, Missouri River, 226--Yellow-stone River, Jefferson's River, 227--La Charette, St. Louis, 228.
_Pike's Journey from St. Louis, through Louisiana to Santa Fe, New Spain._
Missouri River, St. Charles, Osage River, Gravel River, 229 --Yungar River, Grand Fork, Osage Indians, 230--Kanzes River, Pawnee Indians, 231--Arkansaw River, 232--Indians, 233--Grand Pawnees, Rio Colorado, 234--Rio del Norte, 236--Santa Fe, 237.
MEXICO or NEW SPAIN in general 239
_Pike's Journey from Santa Fe to Montelovez._
St. Domingo, Albuquerque, Sibilleta, 247--Passo del Norte, Carracal, Chihuahua, 248--Florida River, Mauperne, Hacienda of Polloss, 249--Montelovez, Durango, 250.
_Description of the City of Mexico._
Situation, 250--Ancient City, 251--Quarters, Teocallis or Temples, 252--School of Mines, Valley of Mexico, 253--Streets, Aqueducts, Dikes or Embankments, Public Edifices, 254--Public Walk, Markets, Chinampas, 255--Hill of Chapoltepec, Lakes of Tezcuco and Chalco, 256.
_Description of some of the most important Places in Mexico._
Tlascala, 256--Puebla, Cholula, Vera Cruz, 257--Xalapa, Volcano of Orizaba, Coffre de Perote, Volcano of Tuxtla, Papantla, Indian Pyramid, 259--Acapulco, 260--Guaxaca or Oaxaca, Intendancy of Yucatan, Bay of Campeachy, 261-- Merida, Campeachy, Honduras, Balize, 262--Nicaragua, Yare River, 263--Leon de Nicaragua, 264.
BRITISH AMERICAN DOMINIONS 264
_Nova Scotia_ in general ib.
Halifax 265
_Canada_ in general 265
_Description of Quebec._
Situation, Cape Diamond, 267--Lower Town, Houses, Streets, Mountain Street, 268--Shops or Stores, Taverns, Public Buildings, Upper Town, 269--Charitable Institutions, Wolf's Cove, Heights of Abram, Markets, 270--Maple Sugar, Fruit, Climate, 271.
_Mr. Hall's Journey from Quebec to Montreal._
Jacques Cartier Bridge, Cataract, Country Houses, 272-- Post-houses, Trois Rivieres, River St. Maurice, Falls of Shawinne Gamme, Beloeil Mountain, 273--Beloeil, Montreal Mountain, 274.
_Description of Montreal._
Situation, Buildings, Streets, Square, Upper and Lower Towns, Suburbs, Religious and Charitable Institutions, 275--Public Edifices, Parade, 276--Markets, Climate, 277.
_Route from Montreal to Fort Chepewyan._
La Chine, 277--St. Ann's, Lake of the two Mountains, Utawas River, Portage de Chaudiere, 278--Lake Nepisingui, Nepisinguis Indians, Riviere de Francois, Lake Huron, Lake Superior, Algonquin Indians, 279--Grande Portage, River Au Tourt, 280-- Lake Winipic, Cedar Lake, Mud Lake, Sturgeon Lake, Saskatchiwine River, Beaver Lake, Lake of the Hills, Fort Chepewyan, 281.
_Account of the Knisteneaux and Chepewyan Indians._
Knisteneaux, 282--Chepewyans, 285.
_Mackenzie's Voyage from Fort Chepewyan, along the Rivers to the Frozen Ocean._
Fort Chepewyan, 288--Lake of the Hills, Slave River, Great Slave Lake, 289--Red-knife Indians, 290--Slave and Dog-rib Indians, 291--Quarreller Indians, 294--North Frozen Ocean, Whale Island, 295.
_Mackenzie's Return from the Frozen Ocean to Fort Chepewyan._
Indians, 296--Account of the country, 297--Woods and Mountains, 298--Fort Chepewyan.
_Description of the Western Coast of America, from California to Behring's Strait._
California, Gulf of California, Missionary Establishment, Indians of California, 299--Monterey, New Albion, Nootka Sound, 300--Indians of Nootka Sound, 301--Port St. Francois, Indians, Prince William's Sound, 302--Cook's River, Alyaska, Cape Newenham, 303--Behring's Strait, Cape Prince of Wales, 304.
DAVIS'S STRAIT and BAFFIN'S BAY 304
_Ross's Voyage of Discovery, for the purpose of exploring Baffin's Bay, and enquiring into the Probability of a North-west Passage._
Cape Farewell, Icebergs, Disco Island, 305,--Kron Prin's Island, Danish Settlement, Wayat's or Hare Island, Four Island Point, Danish Factory, 306,--Esquimaux of Greenland, Danger from the Ice, Whales, 307--Arctic Highlanders, 308--Arctic Highlands, Prince Regent's Bay, 315--Sea Fowls, Crimson Snow, Cape Dudley Digges, 317--Wolstenholme and Whale Sounds, Sir Thomas Smith's Sound, Alderman Jones's Sound, Lancaster Sound, Croker Mountains, 318, 319.
_Parry's Voyage for the Discovery of a North-west Passage._
Lancaster's Sound, Possession Bay, 319--Croker's Bay, Wellington Channel, Barrow's Straits, 320--Bounty Cape, Bay of the Hecla and Griper, Melville Island, 321--Cape Providence, North Georgian Islands, 322--Winter Quarters at Melville Island, 323--Cape Providence, Lancaster's Sound, Baffin's Bay, the Clyde, Esquimaux Indians, 333.
LABRADOR in general 336
GREENLAND in general 339
_Explanation of the Plates in this Volume._
Plate Page
_Vignette_, Rock Bridge 102
1. Washington (_Frontispiece_) 85 Pyramid of Cholula, near Mexico 257 New York 13
2. Philadelphia, Second Street 46 Philadelphia, United States Bank 48 Philadelphia, High Street 46
3. Quebec 268 Cataract of Niagara 37 Montreal 276
The Binder is requested to place the Frontispiece opposite to the Title, and the above Explanation, with the other Plates, together, after the Table of Contents.
TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA,
FROM
MODERN WRITERS.
First Day's Instruction.
NORTH AMERICA.
This division of the great western continent is more than five thousand miles in length; and, in some latitudes, is four thousand miles wide. It was originally discovered by Europeans, about the conclusion of the fifteenth century; and, a few years afterwards, a party of Spanish adventurers obtained possession of some of the southern districts. The inhabitants of these they treated like wild animals, who had no property in the woods through which they roamed. They expelled them from their habitations, established settlements; and, taking possession of the country in the name of their sovereign, they appropriated to themselves the choicest and most valuable provinces. Numerous other settlements have since been established in different parts of the country; and the native tribes have nearly been exterminated, while the European population and the descendants of Europeans, have so much increased that, in the United States only, there are now more than ten millions of white inhabitants.
The _surface_ of the country is extremely varied. A double range of mountains extends through the United States, in a direction, from south-west to north-east; and another range traverses nearly the whole western regions, from north to south. No part of the world is so well watered with rivulets, rivers, and lakes, as this. Some of the _lakes_ resemble inland seas. Lake Superior is nearly 300 miles long, and is more than 150 miles wide; and lakes Huron, Michigan, Erie, Ontario, and Champlain, are all of great size. The principal navigable _rivers_ of America are the Mississippi, the Ohio, the Missouri, and the Illinois. Of these the _Mississippi_ flows from the north, and falls into the Gulf of Mexico. The _Ohio_ flows into the Mississippi: it extends in a north-easterly direction, and receives fifteen large streams, all of which are navigable. The _Missouri_ and the _Illinois_ also flow into the Mississippi: and, by means of these several rivers, a commercial intercourse is effected, from the ocean to vast distances into the interior of the country. Other important rivers are the _Delaware_ and the _Hudson_, in the United States, and the _St. Lawrence_, in Canada. The _bays_ and harbours of North America are numerous, and many of them are well adapted for the reception and protection of ships. _Hudson's Bay_ is of greater extent than the whole Baltic sea. _Delaware Bay_ is 60 miles long; and, in some parts, is so wide, that a vessel in the middle of it cannot be seen from either bank. _Chesapeak Bay_ extends 270 miles inland. The _Bay of Honduras_ is on the south-eastern side of New Spain, and is noted for the trade in logwood and mahogany, which is carried on upon its banks.
The _natural productions_ of North America are, in many respects, important. The forests abound in valuable timber-trees; among which are enumerated no fewer than forty-two different species of oaks. Fruit-trees of various kinds are abundant; and, in many places, grapes grow wild: the other vegetable productions are numerous and important. Among the quadrupeds are enumerated some small species of tigers, deer, elks of immense size, bisons, bears, wolves, foxes, beavers, porcupines, and opossums. The American forests abound in birds; and in those of districts that are distant from the settlements of men, wild turkeys, and several species of grouse are very numerous. In some of the forests of Canada, passenger-pigeons breed in myriads; and, during their periodical flight, from one part of the country to another, their numbers darken the air. The coasts, bays, and rivers, abound in fish; and various species of reptiles and serpents are known to inhabit the interior of the southern districts. Among the mountains most of the important metals are found: iron, lead, and copper, are all abundant; and coals are not uncommon.
THE UNITED STATES.
That part of North America which is under the government of the United States, now constitutes one of the most powerful and most enlightened nations in the world. The inhabitants enjoy the advantage of a vast extent of territory, over which the daily increasing population is able, with facility, to expand itself; and much of this territory, though covered with forests, is capable of being cleared, and many parts of it are every day cleared, for the purposes of cultivation.
The origin of the United States may be dated from the time of the formation of an English colony in Virginia, about the year 1606. Other English colonies were subsequently formed; and, during one hundred and fifty years, these gradually increased in strength and prosperity, till, at length, the inhabitants threw off their dependance upon England, and established an independent republican government. This, after a long and expensive war, was acknowledged by Great Britain, in a treaty signed at Paris on the 30th of November, 1782.
The _boundaries_ of the States were determined by this treaty; but, some important acquisitions of territory have since been made. In April, 1803, _Louisiana_ was ceded to them by France; and this district, in its most limited extent, includes a surface of country, which, with the exception of Russia, is equal to the whole of Europe. _Florida_, by its local position, is connected with the United States: it belonged to Spain, but, in the year 1820, it was annexed to the territories of the republic.
Geographical writers have divided the United States into three regions: the _lowlands_ or flat country; the highlands, and the mountains. Of these, the first extend from the Atlantic ocean to the falls of the great rivers. The _highlands_ reach from the falls to the foot of the mountains; and the _mountains_ stretch nearly through the whole country, in a direction from south-west to north-east. Their length is about 900 miles, and their breadth from 60 to 200. They may be considered as separated into two distinct chains; of which the eastern chain has the name of _Blue Mountains_, and the western is known, at its southern extremity, by the name of _Cumberland_ and _Gauley Mountains_, and afterwards by that of the _Alleghany Mountains_. The Alleghanies are about 250 miles distant from the shore of the Atlantic. Towards the north there are other eminences, called the _Green Mountains_ and the _White Mountains_. The loftiest summits of the whole are said to be about 7000 feet in perpendicular height above the level of the sea.