Part 6

The district or parish of Paratounka includes seven ostrogs and the Kurilles islands; viz. the ostrog of the same name, Saint Peter and Saint Paul, Koriaki, Natchikin, Apatchin, Malkin, and Bolcheretsk. The number of parishioners contained in these ostrogs, does not exceed four hundred; and including the Kurilles islands, the general calculation is not more than six hundred and twenty Christians. The rector of Paratounka is allowed by the empress a salary of eighty roubles, and twenty _pouds_[61] of rye flour. His parishioners of consequence, pay no tythes; but he receives alms and other casual emoluments attached to his church. For a marriage, a christening, or a burial, these priests demand whatever they please. There is no regulation in this respect, and every thing is governed solely by their caprice, which occasions considerable impositions and abuses. In general however, they endeavour to proportion their demands to the abilities of their parishioners, a discretion that is entitled to applause.

The Kamtschadales are free. They are subject only to an annual tribute to Russia, which consists, as I have already said, in various kinds of furs; so that the produce of their chace, turns almost entirely to the advantage of the empress. Every chief of a family is obliged to furnish for himself and for each of his children, even such as are in their minority, a certain quantity of skins equivalent to his share of taxation: this may amount to seven roubles more or less, and the skins, I am told, are generally valued at the lowest possible price. This mode of paying tribute must produce a considerable revenue to the crown, if we merely judge from the number of sables the province annually supplies, which is something more than four thousand. The toyon of each ostrog collects the taxes, and remits them to the treasurer of the crown; a receipt is previously given to every individual of the amount of his tribute, and each Kamtschadale takes care to mark with his seal, or some other sign, all the furs that he delivers.

The current coins are the golden imperial of ten roubles; the rouble, and half rouble. There are very few silver coins below this value; a proof that no article of merchandize is expected to produce less than half a rouble. Copper and paper money have not yet reached this peninsula. A variety of old silver coins of the times of Peter I. Catherine I. and Elizabeth, abound here. A considerable branch of commerce may be made of them; the silver is purer and more valuable than that of common coins.

The pay of the soldiers or Cossacs is fifteen roubles a year. The officers sent by government to so distant a country, receive double salaries.

The peninsula of Kamtschatka, when major Behm presided at Bolcheretsk, was under the jurisdiction of the government general of Irkoutsk. Upon the departure of this governor, whom the English saw upon their first arrival in 1779, captain Schmaleff was deputed in his room, and enjoyed for a year the power and satisfaction of doing good to the inhabitants, who entertain for him an equal respect and gratitude. M. Renikin supplied his place in 1780, and was recalled in 1784 for reasons which I am obliged to suppress. At this period the Kamtschatka department was reunited to that of Okotsk. The chiefs and officers of the different ostrogs have since been subject to the orders of the governor at Okotsk, and to the decisions of its courts of justice; these are themselves subordinate and accountable to the governor general residing at Irkoutsk. The present commanding officer, or governor, at Bolcheretsk, which was formerly the capital of Kamtschatka, is now merely a sergeant; the name of the person I left there was _Rastargouieff_, and he had been nominated to the office by M. Kasloff.

The governors in these various ostrogs are not accountable to one another for their administration, not even inferior officers to their superiors; the authority of each is limited to the inhabitants of his own district; which has doubtless induced the empress to appoint an inspector general, _capitan ispravnick_, whose business is to visit every year all the Kamtschadale villages, receive their complaints, examine their differences, judge them, and punish such as are guilty; in short to maintain order and peace among them. It is also a duty of his function to encourage commerce, particularly their fishing and hunting, to inspect the regular payment of their tribute, the stock of provisions of each individual for his own support, and that of his family, the repairs of the bridges and roads, which unfortunately are very few, and kept in very bad order. In a word, the inspector general should consider it as incumbent upon him to introduce among these people the manners and customs of Russia. This important office was confided, in 1784, to baron de Steinheil, who fixed his residence at Nijenei. Affairs calling him elsewhere, he was succeeded by M. Schmaleff, who, in accompanying us, was making the tour of his office.

The government is not purely military; there are some tribunals established for hearing and deciding causes and other matters juridically. Such are the tribunals of Tiguil, Ingiga, and Nijenei-Kamtschatka; they are subject to the jurisdiction of the court of Okotsk, in the same manner as in Russia the magistrates of the subordinate towns hold from those of the capital, in whom the final decision rests. There is beside at Bolcheretsk a kind of consular jurisdiction, or vocal tribunal, called in Russia _Slovesnoisoud_. The judges are merchants; they take cognizance of all disputes relating to commerce, and their decisions are either confirmed or annulled by the court to which they are carried by appeal. The Russian code of laws is the only one that is attended to; it is too well known to require that I should enter into particulars; and I could only repeat what has been already related by various historians and travellers better informed upon the subject than myself.

I ought however to add, that the property of the Kamtschadales devolves, of course, upon their decease, to the next heir, or to whomsoever it is bequeathed. The will of the testator is equally respected, and as literally adhered to, as it could be with those nations of Europe who are most scrupulous on the subject of successions.

Divorces are neither practised or allowed among the Kamtschadales. The Russians seem to court their alliance, though it procures them no particular privilege. Their motive is obvious. By frequent marriages, it is possible that before the end of the present generation, the race of the indigenes may be totally extinct.

The penalty of death, abolished in all the dominions of the empress, is never inflicted in Kamtschatka. In their earliest migrations, the Russians, when accused of harassing the natives, were condemned to the knowt; the Kamtschadales also, for various offences, were liable to this cruel punishment; but it is no longer practiced. When the natives are guilty either of petty or capital offences, the punishment is whipping. It may be questioned whether they have gained by the change. The present mode of punishing them being more simple and expeditious, it is resorted to with less scruple, and is liable to frequent abuse.

The Kamtschadale idiom appeared to me to be uncouth, guttural, and difficult to be pronounced; the words are broken, and the sounds disagreeable. There are as many different dialects and accents as there are ostrogs. For instance, upon leaving Saint Peter and Saint Paul, we are astonished to hear a different jargon at Paratounka: this is the case with villages the nearest to one another. Notwithstanding these variations of idiom, I considered it as incumbent upon me to procure a vocabulary, which will be found at the end of my journal. I shall add to it the Koriac, the Tchouktchi, and the Lamout languages. My attention to the subject was unremitted, and I received very considerable assistance. I shall finish the article of my abode at Bolcheretsk, with some observations that will tend to prove the impossibility of my leaving it sooner.

Towards the end of November the cold became on a sudden so severe, that in a few days the rivers were all frozen, even the Bolchaïa-reka, which seldom happens, because of the extreme rapidity of its current. The next day it got rid of the ice that covered it, and from that time I saw no more stop before Bolcheretsk, lower than the house of the governor. Though frozen in various places, it presents a great number chasms, where the water is seen to flow as usual.

On each shore of the peninsula, there is a sensible difference in the atmosphere. During the fine weather, a drought prevailed at Saint Peter and Saint Paul's, whereas at Bolcheretsk they complained of frequent showers; meanwhile autumn had not proved this year more rainy than common. Very heavy rains are injurious in this country, because they occasion floods, which drive the fish from the rivers; a famine most distressing to the poor Kamtschadales is the result, as it happened last year in all the villages along the western coast of the peninsula. This dreadful calamity occurs so frequently in this quarter, that the inhabitants are obliged to abandon their dwellings, and repair with their families to the borders of the Kamtschatka, where they hope to find better resources, fish being more plentiful in this river. M. Kasloff had intended to proceed along the western coast, having already made his visit through the east; but the news of this famine determined him, contrary to his wishes, to return, rather than be driven to the necessity of stopping half way, or perishing with hunger from the difficulty of procuring dogs and provision.

The wind varied considerably during my residence at Bolcheretsk; it was most commonly west, north-west, or north-east; it blew sometimes from the south, but seldom from the east. The south and west winds are almost invariably attended with snow. Scarcely a week passed, even to the month of January, without our experiencing two or three violent tempests; they commonly proceeded from the north-west. These gales of wind lasted always a day or two, and sometimes seven or eight days. It would have been the height of imprudence to venture out at such a season. The sky was completely obscured, and the snow, supported by these whirlwinds, formed in the air a thick fog, that prevented us from seeing at the distance of six yards. Woe to all travellers who are exposed to this terrible weather! necessity compels them to stop, or they run the risk of losing themselves, or of falling every moment into some abyss; for how is it possible they should find their way, or advance a step, when they have to resist the impetuosity of the wind, and to disengage themselves from the heaps of snow that suddenly encompass them? If such be the dangers encountered by the men, what must we suppose the poor dogs to suffer. Nothing is more common, when overtaken by these hurricanes, than to find ourselves separated from the sledges of our companions, to the distance of two wersts or upwards from each other, and proceeding in an opposite direction[62].

The frequency of these tempests, and the deplorable accidents they occasion, convinced us of the necessity of deferring our departure. M. Kasloff was equally as impatient to arrive at the place of his destination, as I was to continue my journey, that I might execute my commission with the diligence that had been recommended to me; but every one whose advice we asked, condemned our eagerness, and proved particularly as to myself, that, entrusted with such important dispatches, it would be rashness to proceed. This reflection pacified me. M. Kasloff anticipated my wishes, by giving me a certificate, accounting for my long residence at Bolcheretsk, by a relation of the circumstances that had occasioned it. The gales of wind having at length ceased towards the middle of January, we eagerly set about preparing for our departure, which was fixed for the 27 of that month.

We furnished ourselves in the best manner we could with brandy, beef, rye, flour, and oatmeal. A considerable quantity of loaves were prepared for us, of which we reserved some to supply us during the first few days of our journey, and the rest were cut into thin slices and baked in an oven like biscuits: what was left of our flour, we put into sacks as a resource in time of need.

M. Kasloff had ordered that as many dogs as possible should be collected. Multitudes were presently brought from all the neighbouring ostrogs; we had also provision for them in abundance, the only difficulty was how we should carry it. We had resolved to set off early in the morning of 27; but when we came to load our sledges, we found our baggage so considerable, that, in spite of the number of hands employed, it was not completed till the evening. We were out of humour; no day in my life ever appeared so tedious. Vexed at the delay, we would not defer our departure till the next day, and were no sooner informed that every thing was ready, than we ran to our sledges and were out of Bolcheretsk in a moment.

We started at seven o'clock. It was moonlight, and the snow added to its brightness. Our departure merits a description. Conceive of our numerous cavalcade amounting to thirty-five sledges[63]. In the first was a sergeant of the name of Kabechoff, who was appointed to superintend and direct our procession. He gave the signal, and instantly all these sledges set off in file. They were drawn by three hundred dogs[64] of equal courage and speed. Presently the line was broken, the order disturbed, and all was confusion. A spirited emulation animated the conductors, and it became as it were a chariot race. It was who should drive fastest; no one was willing to be outstripped; the dogs themselves could not bear this affront; they partook the rivalship of their masters, fought with one another to obtain the precedence, and the sledges were overturned, frequently at the risk of being dashed to pieces. The clamour of those who were overturned, the yelping of the struggling dogs, the mixed cry of those that proceeded, and the confused and continual chattering of the guides, compleated the disorder, and prevented us both from knowing and hearing one another.

To enjoy this tumult the more at my ease, I quitted my sledge where I was imprisoned, and placed myself in a smaller one, in which, beside the pleasure of driving myself, I could see what was passing around me. Fortunately no accident happened, and I had no reason to repent of my curiosity. This embarassment was chiefly occasioned by the concourse of the inhabitants of Bolcheretsk, who, from attachment as well as respect, were desirous of accompanying M. Kasloff to Apatchin[65], where we arrived about midnight: the distance of Bolcheretsk from this ostrog is forty-four wersts.

A few moments after our arrival a tempestuous wind arose, which would greatly have incommoded us, if it had happened during our route. It continued the rest of the night and all the next day, which we were obliged therefore to spend at Apatchin.

Here we received the last adieux of the inhabitants of Bolcheretsk. I was struck with their gratitude and attachment to M. Kasloff, and the regret they expressed at leaving him, as well as their concern for me, and the interest they took in the success of my journey. I was the more pleased with their attentions, as I had observed while at Bolcheretsk, that the French nation was not held in any high esteem by them; they had even so bad an opinion of us, that it was with difficulty they were brought to believe what had been told them of the politeness and cordiality of the crews of the French frigates to the inhabitants of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. In proportion however as they heard their countrymen extol our conduct, their prejudice grew weaker. I endeavoured by my conversation and behaviour to destroy it entirely. I dare not flatter myself to have succeeded; but it appeared to me that a complete change at last took place in their sentiments respecting us.

The disadvantageous impression which they had imbibed of the character and genius of our nation, originated in the perfidy and cruelty exhibited in the person of the famous Beniowsky in this part of the peninsula. This slave called himself a Frenchman, and acted like a true Vandal.

His history is known. During the troubles of 1769 he served in Poland under the colours of the confederates. His intrepidity induced them to make choice of him to command a medley troop of foreigners, or rather robbers, like himself, whom they kept in pay, not from choice but necessity. With Beniowsky at their head, they ransacked the country, massacring every one they met. He harassed the Russians, to whom he was as formidable as to his own countrymen. They soon felt the necessity of getting rid of so dangerous an enemy: he was taken prisoner, and it may be supposed they adopted no very lenient measures respecting him. Banished to Siberia, and afterwards to Kamtschatka, his fiery and vindictive genius accompanied him. Escaped from the mountains of snow, under which the Russians supposed him to be buried, he suddenly made his appearance at Bolcheretsk with a troop of exiles, to whom he had imparted a spark of his own audacity. He surprised the garrison and took possession of the arms; the governor, M. Nilloff, was killed by his hand. There was a vessel in the port; he seized it: every one trembled at his aspect; all submitted to his will. He compelled the poor Kamtschadales to furnish him with the provisions he demanded; and not content with the sacrifices obtained, he gave up their habitations to the unbridled licentiousness of his banditti, to whom he set the example of villainy and ferocity. He embarked at length with his companions, and sailed, it was said, towards China, carrying with him the execrations of the people of Kamtschatka. This suppositious Frenchman was the only one they had yet seen in the peninsula; and from such a specimen of our nation, they certainly could not love, and had sufficient reason to fear us.

M. Schmaleff quitted us at break of day, and set off for Tiguil, on the western coast, to complete the visit of his government[66].

We left Apatchin almost at the same time. Our retinue being less numerous we made more expedition. Having passed the plain in which this ostrog is situated, we met the Bolchaïa-reka, upon which we journeyed for several hours. We followed it through all its windings, sometimes in the middle of a forest, and sometimes at the foot of steep and dreary mountains, which arise at intervals on its banks. Fifteen wersts from Malkin we left this river, because the current began to put in motion the ice which was broken in different places; and before we reached this ostrog, we crossed the Bristraïa. We arrived about two o'clock. The distance from Apatchin is sixty-four wersts, and having no change of dogs, we were obliged to stop, to give them time to rest.

The toyon of Malkin came to meet M. Kasloff, and offered him his isba. Considerable preparations had been made for our reception, which induced us to pass the night there. He treated us with the utmost respect, and entertained us in the best manner he could. I regretted that his cares had not extended to the article of our repose. Mine was terribly interrupted by the noise of our steeds, to which I was not yet accustomed. The shrill and incessant howlings of these cursed animals, seemed close at my ears, and prevented me from sleeping during the whole night. It is necessary to have heard this nocturnal music, the most disagreeable I ever experienced, to judge of what I suffered in habituating myself to it; for in the course of my journey I was obliged to learn to rest in defiance of it. After a few bad nights, sleep at last overpowered me, and I was insensible to all noise. By degrees I became so inured to the cries of these animals, that I could repose in the midst of them in perfect tranquillity. I shall mention in this place, that the dogs are only fed once a day, at the end of their journey; their repast consists commonly of a dried salmon distributed to each of them.

The ostrog of Malkin is similar to those which I have already described. It contains five or six isbas and a dozen balagans, is situated upon the border of the Bistraïa, and surrounded with high mountains. I had no time to visit the hot springs that are said to be in this neighbourhood, the waters of which are strongly impregnated with sulphur; and one in particular, issuing from the declivity of a hill, forms at the bottom a bason of tolerably clear water.

From Malkin we went to Ganal, which is forty-five wersts, but we were unable to travel with the speed we had expected. The Bistraïa was not completely frozen, and we were obliged to wind about and to cross woods, where the snow, though deep, was so far from firm, that our dogs sunk to their bellies, and were extremely fatigued. This induced us to abandon this road, and make again for the Bistraïa. We came up to it at ten wersts from Ganal, and found it in the state we had wished. The solidity of the ice promised us expeditious travelling, and we readily embraced the advantage. We followed this river till we came to the ostrog which is upon its bank, and consists of four isbas and twelve balagans. It offered nothing remarkable.

We only learned that there had been some very terrible hurricanes, and that they had not yet subsided, though their force was considerably diminished. There is no difficulty in accounting for the violence of these tempests. The surrounding high mountains form so many recesses in which the wind is embayed. The fewer avenues it has to escape at, the more impetuous it becomes: it seeks out a passage, rushes through the first that offers, breaks out in whirlwinds, scatters the snow over the roads, and generally renders them impassable.

Having spent a very indifferent night in the house of the toyon of Ganal, we set off the next day for Pouschiné. The distance is ninety wersts, which however we performed in fourteen hours; but the last half of the journey was very painful. No road being opened, our sledges sunk three or four feet in the snow, and the jolts were so frequent, that I was happy to escape with being only once overturned. We judged from the snow upon the trees, that it must have proceeded from the north, and been very heavy, which was confirmed by the inhabitants. Our road lay invariably through a forest of birch trees, and for some time we lost sight of the mountains, by which we had passed the preceding evening; but as we drew nearer to Pouschiné they became visible again.

The Kamtschatka runs by the lower end of this ostrog, which is larger than that of Ganal. The only thing I remarked in this place was, that the isbas had no chimneys; they have only, like the balagans, a narrow opening in the roof to let out the smoak, which is frequently closed up by a trap door to confine the heat. It is not possible to continue in apartments warmed in this manner; we must either come out, or prostrate ourselves on the floor, if we would escape being stifled, or at least blinded, by the smoke: it does not ascend directly towards the roof, but spreads a thick black cloud over the chamber; and as it seldom has time wholly to evaporate, the interior part of these isbas is lined with soot, which gives them a disgusting aspect and a most offensive smell.