Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa

An Excursion—Arab Encampments—Commencement of the Hilly Region—The Plateau—Turkish Stronghold—Berber Settlements—The Picturesque Fountain—Wady Welád ʿAli—Khalaifa—Beautiful Ravi...

Wady Rán—Jebel Msíd—Singular Monuments—Structure Described—Conjectural Character—Other Ancient Ruins—Approach to Tarhóna—The Governor’s Encampment—Ruins near ʿAín Shershára—Kasr...

Roman Sepulchre in Wady Talha—Wady Tagíje—Remarkable Monument—Description of Monument—Wady Zemzem—Roman Sepulchres at Taboníye—Gharíya—Roman Gateway—Arab Tower—Roman Inscription...

Wady Sháti, or Shiyáti—Éderí and its Gardens—Wady Shiúkh—Sandy Region—Reach the Wady—Ugréfe—Jerma Kadím—The Last Roman Monument—The Groves of the Wady—End of the Wady—Arrival at...

Setting out from Múrzuk—Tiggerurtín, the Village of the Tinýlkum—Gathering of the Caravan—Tasáwa—Arrival of the Tuarek Chiefs—Reformation of Islám—Return to Múrzuk—Move on final...

Hatíta—Sculptures in Telísaghé—Subject of Sculptures, Two Deities Fighting about a Bull—Herd of Bulls—Cattle formerly Beasts of Burden in the Desert—Fine Valleys—Breaking up of...

Fezzán, a Berber Country—The Berbers—Their Real Name Mázigh; the Name Tuarek of Arab Origin—The Azkár—History of the Azkár—The Hadánarang—Degraded Tribes—The Imghád—The Kél—View...

The Town of Bárakat—The Date-groves of Bárakat and their Inhabitants—Alpine Lake—The Tawáti—High Mountain Pass—Deep Ravine of Égeri—Threatened Attack—Region of Granite Commences...

Picturesque Peak—Valley of Arókam—Caravan of Merábetín—Aséttere—The Guinea Worm—The Caravan (at Aísala)—Berber Inscription—Ikadémmelrang—Peculiar Mounts—Marárraba, the Halfway—B...

Tághajít—Character of the Borderers—New Alarms—Order of Battle—Mohammed Bóro—A Tardy Acknowledgment—Formidable Threats—The Compromise—Mountains of Ásben—Valley of Tídik—Sad Disa...

The Name Aïr or Ahír—Country of the Goberáwa—The Kél-owí—Recent Conquest—Descent in the Female Line—Mixed Population—Language-Sections of the Kél-owí—The Irólangh—Tribe of the S...

Attempt at Bullock-riding—Tuarek Blacksmiths—The Double Horn of Mount Cheréka—Ásodi and its Ruins—Mounts Eghellál, Bághzen, and Ágata—Mounts Belásega and Abíla—The Valley Tígged...

The Retail Traders from Tawát—The Learned ʿAbdallah—Aspect of the Town—The Sultan’s Quarter—Interview with the Chief—Mohammed Bóro’s House and Family—Markets of Ágades—Manufactu...

Ágades not identical with Aúdaghost—Meaning of the Name—The Songhay Conqueror Háj Mohammed Askiá (Leo’s Ischia)—The Associated Tribes—Leo’s Account of Ágades—The Ighedálen—Tegíd...

Abortive Commencement of Journey—The Valley Tíggeda full of Life—Tin-téllust deserted—Arrival in Tin-téggana—Stay in Tin-téggana—Mohammed el Gatróni—Turbulent State of the Count...

Taking Leave of Tin-téggana—Trachytic Peak of Teléshera—Valley of Tánegat—The Salt Caravan—Wild Manners of the Tuarek—Mount Mári—Richer Vegetation—Well Álbes—Tebu Merchants—Chém...

Travelling in Earnest—Home of the Giraffe and _Antilope leucoryx_—The Mágariá—The _Cornus nabeca_ and the Feathery Bristle—Princely Present—Animals (_Orycteropus Æthiopicus_)—Th...

Dissembling of the Chief—His steadfast Character—Mr. Richardson’s Health—Separation—Different Roads to Kanó—Animated Intercourse—Native Warfare—The First Large Tamarind-tree—Vil...

An African Dandy—My Protector Elaiji—Camp Life—Fortifications and Market of Gazáwa—March resumed—Desolate Wilderness—Site of Dánkama—Struggle between Islámism and Paganism—Encam...

The Name Háusa—Origin of the Háusa Nation—The Seven States—Origin of the Town of Kátsena—The Mohammedan Missionary Ben Maghíli—Kings of Kátsena—The First Moslim—The Oldest Quart...

My Situation in Kanó—Debts—Projects—The Commissioner—Difficulties—Sickness—Interior of Kanó; Animated Picture—The Quarters of the Conquered and the Ruling Race—The “Serkí” and t...

Leaving Kanó quite by myself—My Trooper—Get off later—Domestic Slavery—Gezáwa—My Runaway Servant ʿAbdallah—The Sheríf and his Attendants—Mules in Negroland—Kúka Mairuwá—Insecuri...

Intercourse—Change of Life in Negroland—Region of the Dúm-palm—The Kúri Ox—The River Wáni—Enter Bórnu Proper—Zurríkuló—News of the Death of Mr. Richardson—Sandy Downs—Déffowa—In...

Peculiar Character of the Alluvial Plains of Bórnu—The Attentive Woman—Entrance into Kúkawa—Servants of the Mission—Debts of the Mission—Interview with the Vizier—Sheikh ʿOmár—M...

Documents—Beginning of written History—Pedigree of the Bórnu Kings—Chronology—Harmony of Facts—The Séfuwa Dynasty—Ébn Khaldún—Makrízí and Ébn Batúta—Surprising Accuracy of the C...

My Friends—The Arab Áhmed bel Mejúb—The Púllo Íbrahím from the Senegal—Dangerous Medical Practice—Áhmed the Traveller—My Bórnu Friends—The Vizier el Háj Beshír; his Career; his...

Character of the Road to Ngórnu—Ngórnu—Searching the Tsád—Longer Excursion—Character of the Shores of the Tsád—The Búdduma and their Boats—Fresh Water—Swampy Plains—Boats of the...

Leaving Kúkawa—The Road Southwards—Inhospitality near the Capital—Buying with a Shirt—The Winter Corn—The Shúwa Arabs—Múngholo Gezáwa—Fair Arabs—Magá District—The Gámerghú Distr...

Question about Snowy Mountains—The Blacksmith—Shámo District—A Storm—Molghoy—The Southern Molghoy—Large Kúrna-trees—Structure of the Huts—Deviations from Negro Type—The Marghí,...

The Conquering Tribe—The Granite Hills—Valley and Mountain Chain—Isolated Mountain Groups—Múbi—The Surrounding Country—Origin of the Fúlbe—Bágma and Peculiar Structures—Camels a...

Approach to the River—Mount Alantíka and the Bénuwé—The Tépe or “Junction”—The great Arm of the Kwára—The Traveller’s Pursuits—Highroad of Commerce—The Frail Canoes—Bathing in t...

Inauspicious Entrance—Curiosity of Natives—Quarters—An Arab Traveller to Lake Nyassa—The Governor Mohammed Láwl—The Audience—The Mission repulsed—The Governor’s Brother Mansúr—O...

Start from Ribágo—Hospitable Treatment in Sulléri—Demsa-Póha—The Memorable Campaign Southward—View of a Native Settlement—Beautiful Country—Bélem again—Mʿallem Dalíli and his Fa...

Supplies—The Herbage—Tropical Rains—Mr. Vogel’s Statement—The Winged Ant—Various Kinds of Cultivation—Intended Excursion to Kanem—Mr. Overweg’s Memoranda—Political Situation of...

Money Matters settled—A Repentant Servant—Delights of Open Encampment—Dawerghú—Treatment by Slaves—Variety of Trees—Scarcity of Water—The Town of Yó—Marriage Customs—Character o...

The Welád Slimán—Their Power—Slaughter of the Welád Slimán—Interview with Sheikh Ghét—Interview with ʿOmár—Specimen of Predatory Life—Runaway Female Slave—Rich Vales—Large Deser...

Bír el Ftáim—The Fugábú—Projects frustrated—Kárká and the Keghámma—Elephant’s Track—Bóro—Bérendé—Towáder—Beautiful Vale—Preparations for Attack—Left behind—Regularly formed Vall...

Set out on another Expedition—The Camp, or Ngáufate—The _Chef de Police_ Lamíno—Army in Motion—Lamíno again—Major Denham’s Adventure—The Town of Márte—Ála—Encampment at Díkowa—F...

News from Mándará—Áfagé—Thieves forced to fight—The Sweet Sorghum—Variations of Temperature—Shallow Watercourses—Subjection of Mándará—Extensive Rice-fields—Hard Ground—Elephant...

The Deléb-palm—New Features—Worship of Ancestors—Cut off from the Army—Spoil and Slaughter—Alarm and Cowardice—Músgu Weapons—The Túburi not attacked—Ngáljam of Démmo—Destruction...

Another Alarm—Policy of Negroland—Cattle Indigenous or Imported—Another District Plundered—The Músgu Slave—Narrow Escape—Attack by Bees—African Netherlands—Miseries of Slave Hun...

Mr. Richardson was waiting in Paris for despatches, when Mr. Overweg and I reached Tunis, by way of Philippeville and Bona, on the 15th of December, 1849; and having, through th...

As soon as it became apparent that the preparations for our final departure for the interior would require at least a month, Mr. Overweg and I resolved to employ the interval in...

It was past three in the afternoon of Thursday, February 14th, when we started from the dwelling of our host, in order to pursue our route in a south-easterly direction. We were...

Meanwhile the instruments provided by Government had arrived, and proved in general well adapted for their purposes.[6] But the tents and arms had not yet reached us; and I thou...

We lost the best part of the morning, our men not being able to find their camels, which had roamed over the whole wady. Our road was almost the same as that by which I had retu...

There are three roads from el Hasi: the westernmost called Trík eʾ duésa, after a small cluster of palm-trees; the second, called Trík eʾ safar, stony and more desolate than the...

Unfortunately our stay in Múrzuk seemed likely to become a very long one, as the chiefs from Ghát, who were to take us under their protection, were not yet sent for; the courier...

Accompanied by Mr. Gagliuffi, the Greek doctor, and the Bin-básha, we left Múrzuk by the western gate. My parting from Mr. Gagliuffi was cordial. He had received us and treated...

_July 5._—We had to separate from the Tinýlkum, and from our luggage, without having any certainty as to where and when we might overtake them. The chiefs of Ghát, too, had star...

There can be no doubt that even Fezzán, in ancient times, had a population entirely different from that dwelling near the coast; but the original black inhabitants of that count...

On the morning of the 26th of July I once more found myself on the back of my camel, and from my elevated seat threw a last glance over the pleasant picture of the oasis of Ghát...

_Friday, August 9._—There had been much talk about our starting at midnight; but, fortunately, we did not get off before daylight, so that I was able to continue my exact observ...

The sensations of our guides and camel-drivers had been uneasy from the very moment of our encamping; and Mr. Richardson, at the suggestion of Ánnur, had on the preceding day se...

The name Aír, exactly as it is written and pronounced by the natives at the present day, first occurs in the description of Leo, which was written in 1526. The country Káher, me...

_Thursday, September 5._—We saw the old chief on the day following our arrival. He received us in a straightforward and kindly manner, observing very simply that even, if as Chr...

_Friday, October 4._—At length the day arrived when I was to set out on my long-wished-for excursion to Ágades. For although at that time I was not aware of the whole extent of...

_Friday, October 11._—Early in the morning the whole body of people from Tawát who were residing in the place, ʿAbd el Káder at their head, paid me a visit. The Tawátíye are sti...

Previously to Mr. Cooley’s perspicuous inquiries into the Negroland of the Arabs, this place was identified with Aúdaghost, merely on account of a supposed similarity of name. B...

_Wednesday, October 30._—We at length left Ágades. I felt as if I had enjoyed a glimpse of a totally different world, a new region of life, many relations of which were as yet o...

_Thursday, December 12._—At length the day broke when we were to move on and get nearer the longed-for object of our journey, though we were aware that our first progress would...

_Friday, Dec. 27._—At length we were to exchange our too easy wandering for the rate of real travelling. Early in the morning a consultation was held with the elder men of the K...

_Friday, Jan. 10._—The important day had arrived when we were to separate not only from each other, but also from the old chief Annur, upon whom our fortunes had been dependent...

_Saturday, Jan. 18._—We made a good start with our camels, which, having been treated to a considerable allowance of salt on the first day of our halt, had made the best possibl...

In order to render intelligible the anterior history of Kátsena, it will be necessary to enter into some preliminary explanation respecting the whole country of Háusa. The name...

Kanó for us was a station of importance not only from a scientific, but also from an economical point of view. Instead of being provided with ready cash, we had received in Múrz...

_Sunday, March 9._—The traveller who would leave a place where he has made a long residence, often finds that his departure involves him in a great deal of trouble, and is by no...

The ghaladíma,[38] or governor of the Gháladí, which (as we shall see in the historical account of the Bórnu empire) comprised all the western provinces of Bórnu from the komádu...

_Saturday, March 22._—The ghaladíma had promised to send me a horseman last evening, as I wanted to start early in the morning; but as we neither saw nor heard anything of him t...

_Wednesday, April 2._—This was to be a most momentous day of my travels; for I was to reach that place which was the first distinct object of our mission, and I was to come into...

1. A chronicle (“diván”), or rather the dry and sterile abridgment of a chronicle, comprising the whole history of Bórnu, from the earliest time down to Ibrahím, the last unfort...

I shall now give an account of my stay in Kúkawa before setting out on my journey to Ádamáwa. Regarding Kúkawa only as the basis of my further proceedings, and as a necessary st...

_Thursday, April 24_:—Sheikh ʿOmár, with his whole court, left Kúkawa in the night of the 23rd of April, in order to spend a day or two in Ngórnu, where he had a tolerably good...

_Thursday, May 29._—At four o’clock in the afternoon I left the “chínna ánumbe,” the southern gate of Kúkawa, on my adventurous journey to Ádamáwa. My little troop was not yet a...

_Friday, June 6._—We now commenced travelling more in earnest. Íbrahíma had been busy looking after his master’s subjects, who had been carried away into slavery, all about the...

We had now reached the border of Ádamáwa, the country after which I had been panting so long, and of which I had heard so many interesting accounts, a Mohammedan kingdom engraft...

_Wednesday, June 18._—At an early hour we left the inhospitable place of Sulléri. It was a beautiful fresh morning, all nature being revived and enlivened by the last night’s st...

At length I had reached the capital of Ádamáwa, having had altogether a very lucky and successful journey; but now all depended upon the manner in which I should be received in...

Having made these few remarks with regard to the interesting work of conquest and colonization which is going on in Ádamáwa, I now return to my quarters in Ribágo, in order to c...

I had left Kúkawa on my journey to Ádamáwa in the best state of health, but had brought back from that excursion the germs of disease; and residence in the town, at least at thi...

_Thursday, Sept. 11._—Having decided upon leaving the town in advance of the Arabs, in order to obtain leisure for travelling slowly the first few days, and to accustom my feebl...

We had now joined our fate with that of this band of robbers, who, in consequence of their restless habits, having been driven from their original dwelling places in the Syrtis,...

_Saturday, Oct. 11._—With the rest of our people, and with the remaining two camels carrying the smaller part of our luggage, we accompanied the following day the more active pa...

_Tuesday, Nov. 25._—Ten days after having returned to our headquarters, from the wearisome journey to Kánem, I left Kúkawa again, in order to join a new warlike expedition. The...

_Saturday, Dec. 6._—At length, after a protracted stay, we left our encampment at Díkowa, though still in complete uncertainty whether the expedition was directed against Mándar...

_Friday, Dec. 26._—At length we went onward to pursue our march, turning considerably out of our road towards the east, in order to avoid the residence of Ádishén, and to preven...

_Wednesday, Jan. 7._—This was the day when we were to bid farewell to all projects of penetrating further towards the south or south-east. It was rather remarkable, that, early...