CHAPTER XV.

Palenque. — The Forest. — The Palace or Monastery. — Night at Palenque. — Brilliancy of the light of the fireflies. — Pyramidal Mounds and Temples. — Tablet of the Cross. — Hieroglyphs. — An Indian Statue. — Antiquity of the Buildings. — The Tower. — Stucco Ornamentation. — Action of the tropical climate upon the Ruins. — Note upon the decipherment of the hieroglyphic characters.

It was a bright tropical morning when we mounted our horses and followed the narrow path leading to Palenque. After riding for a league through woods, savannahs, and cornfields, we reached and crossed the river Michol.

As we approached the ruins, the forest was so thick that we were not able to see anything beyond the track which had been cleared for us by our men. At a distance of about three Spanish leagues from San Domingo, we came to the borders of a small running stream. Dr. Coller stopped and said that at this point we should dismount, as we had arrived at our destination. We then went up a steep slope, on the summit of which I could see dimly, the pillars and ruined roof of the “Palace.”

Our Indians met us at the entrance. They had already cleared the brushwood which had overgrown the quadrangles, and had removed all that interfered with any exploring work that they thought we might wish to carry out. The luxuriance of the vegetation was surprising. In one of the open courts we observed a large plant which we found to be a species of arum. The leaves were of an extraordinary size, and averaged four feet six inches long by three feet six inches wide; the stalks were over seven feet high.

The greater part of the day was occupied in making a survey of the ground plans of the building, as far as it was possible to trace them amongst the accumulations of fallen ruins. Upon the completion of this work, and after having made an examination of the series of small chambers below the corridors, it became evident that the building was erected with the intention of establishing a monastery, similar to those which were described by the historians of the conquest of Mexico as being dedicated to the use of the priests who worshipped and performed ceremonies at the shrines of the god Quetzalcoatl, and who, in addition to those duties, were given the charge of educating the children of the chiefs. They also trained those youths who were intended to become priests.

It is to be regretted that this great structure was called by its first discoverers “The Palace,” and that its purpose was rendered perplexing by theories connected with the dwellings of Kings or Caciques.

According to the investigations of Mr. Stephens, its extreme dimensions were two hundred and twenty-eight feet long, by one hundred and eighty feet wide. The height of the rectangular mound upon which it is placed has been variously estimated. It appears to have been about twenty feet high. Upon the summit of this platform was built with stone and mortar, the various foundations upon which the buildings and galleries of the monastery were erected. The base upon the east front was about ten feet high. The height of the building may be estimated to have been nearly twenty-four feet. Thus it may be concluded that the whole height from the ground to the roof must have been approximately fifty-four feet. The architectural proportions seem to have been well designed.

The interior gave me the impression of being Moorish in its style, especially with respect to the open inner courts, the arrangement of the corridors and the lavish employment of stucco ornamentation, brilliantly coloured. A closer investigation into architectural details left the subject in doubt, but there still remained upon the mind the feeling that in some unintelligible manner, the construction had been directed either by foreigners or by Indians who were partly descended from men of foreign origin. The forms of ancient mosques and of the inner courts and quadrangles of Arabian or Moorish and Spanish public buildings were indistinctly recalled to the memory. It was however to be observed, upon an examination of the methods adopted at Palenque in supporting the weight of the roofs, that the arches (if it is permissible for that term to be applied to straight converging slopes covered with flat coping stones,) are absolutely exceptional and unlike any other arch that is known. I was reminded, to a certain extent, of the ruins of Alatri, near Mycenæ on the plains of Argos, and of an Etruscan tomb near Perugia, but the system employed by the American architects, in placing the cap or terminal cross stones was essentially different.

In the exploration of the ruins our attention was chiefly directed to certain doubtful points, particularly with regard to the chambers which are beneath the corridors, and are entered from the level of the courts. There have been several conjectures respecting the purposes of these cells. I think that it is probable that they were used as dormitories. In some of the chambers there was a low, wide stone table, placed against the wall at the end. These benches were large flat smooth slabs of limestone supported on four stone legs. In height, shape and dimensions they were like the wooden bedsteads used by the Indians at the present time.

There is a square tower in one of the inner courts which must be considered as the most singular structure in Palenque. In position and manner of construction it is abnormal in character. It was probably intended for some special object, after the monastery had been completed. When Captain Del Rio saw this tower, in 1787, he estimated its height to be sixteen yards. In 1870 there were heaps of rubble and fallen stones piled against the base, which made it difficult for me to make exact measurements, but an approximate estimate gave the sides of the square near the base as twenty-three feet, and the height about forty-five feet. The peculiarity about the construction is the fact that it consists of a tower within a tower. The inner structure contains a steep and narrow staircase. Light is obtained through large openings in the sides of the outer tower, and then through smaller openings in the walls of the interior one. The steps appear to have led up to the top. The walls are formed of rough slabs of limestone which had been thickly coated over with cement, portions of which still remained. It was raised to a height which commanded views of the adjacent temples.

Upon my return to the eastern front, I found that the Indians had slung the hammocks in the outer corridor overlooking the forest. A few minutes before sunset we heard the strange and beautiful notes of a solitary bird singing amongst the ruins. The song resembled in its tone that of a thrush. Dr. Coller said that the bird was a kind of nightingale, and that it was only known to live within and around the Palenque temples. The bird sang in a slow, deliberate manner, each of the notes having a short interval of time between them. The song was maintained during the twilight, and ceased as soon as it became dark and the night had begun. It was an evening hymn to the setting sun. The hoarse screams and movements of troops of monkeys then disturbed the precincts. These harsh noises gradually stopped, and as the night advanced the forest became silent. The moon was up and we knew that it was shining brightly above the trees, but we could only see occasionally its faint glimmer. I had expected to hear the croaking of frogs or the sounds of cicadas, the usual accompaniment to a tropical evening, but although there was a running stream of water at the foot of the mound, these familiar sounds were absent.

The brushwood covering the ground was made brilliant by numerous fireflies. The light which shone from these beetles far exceeded anything of that nature that I had seen in other regions, and I took the opportunity of ascertaining the strength of the illuminating power. I sent one of the men into the wood to catch the largest firefly that he could find, and then, after having made the corridor dark by extinguishing our candles, the insect was held about two inches from a blank page of my note book, Dr. Coller watched the experiment. We found that the light was steady and shed a soft clear phosphorescent glow over the paper. The luminous power was sufficient to enable us to read or write with ease over a surface two inches square. After writing a few notes upon what had been done during the day we added:—

“Written by the light of a firefly in the Palace, in the ruins of Palenque, the night of Wednesday, March 10th, 1870, the candle (firefly) held by Dr. Albert Coller. The light about equal to that of a small wax candle and very pure. The light rather greenish.”

“Dr. A. J. COLLER.”

Before turning into my hammock I visited the horses tethered at the base of the mound near the stream. They were much worried by flies, mosquitos, and small ticks called garrapátas, which find their way under the skin and cause great irritation. In the corridor, thirty feet above them, we were not troubled with any of these pests, but there were numerous bats. The Indians said that, sometimes, horses were seriously injured by bats biting them above their hoofs.

In the morning, upon the earliest indications of dawn, the solitary nightingale again began its song, and the clear staccato, and singularly musical note was again heard amongst the ruins until sunrise, when it ceased. Thus this bird sang its song of praise as the herald of the day.

At sunrise Dr. Coller returned to San Domingo, leaving me alone at Palenque to carry out the investigation of the mounds and temples, a work which he thought would be laborious and oppressive. My guides were however well acquainted with the ruins, and I consequently knew that I should be spared all unnecessary exertion. But until I began the exploration I had no idea of the difficulties that had to be encountered. The men were employed in cutting a path through the brushwood and it was impracticable to do more than follow a certain line of direction and obtain ideas of distances by counting the number of paces or by noting intervals of time. I soon ascertained that with the means at my disposal it was hopeless to expect to do more than obtain a general knowledge of the extent and form of the chief structures, and the positions of the mounds. It was a serious disappointment to find that it was impossible to make a thorough examination without the aid of a large number of Indians to cut down the trees and clear the ground. This would have been a work involving much time and expenditure and was entirely beyond my power. The forest was sombre, for the light that penetrated through the trees, was insufficient. It was however possible to obtain a fair knowledge of the extent of the space covered by the mounds, and their distances from the monastery. The ground plan of the inclosure could also be approximately understood.

The first and, with respect to its altar, the most important building that I saw, was that known by the name of the Temple of the Cross. Before ascending the sides of the mound upon which it stands, I examined the formation of an ancient causeway which covered, for some distance, the stream near its base. I traced it for about one hundred and fifty yards. A small portion was sufficiently preserved to enable the system of construction to be ascertained. It appears to have been intended for the purpose of confining the rivulet that ran beneath it, and thus to secure a dry roadway, or crossing, during the rainy season. It was stated by the Indians, that there still existed, in the forest, the remains of a stone bridge. As far as I could understand their description, it appeared that in shape it was not unlike the ancient Chinese bridges, and rose to the centre by steep gradients.

After finishing the measurements of the causeway we began to ascend the mound. About halfway up the slope, the men stopped and pointed to a place where, lying with its face on the ground, was the stone of the cross. As this tablet had been the subject of much investigation, and is undoubtedly, with respect to its meaning, the most remarkable monument at Palenque, I was anxious to examine it with the utmost care. I directed the Indians to turn it over and thoroughly clean it from moss and dirt, so as to enable me to make a sketch of it. I found that, in consequence of the action of the earth upon the face of the stone, parts of the sculpture were difficult to trace, but the central figures were quite distinct. I was able to make a satisfactory outline, chiefly confining my attention to the cross, the bird surmounting it, and the dress of the man, having in his hands what seemed to be a child, which he was presenting as a votive offering.

The bird, with its long double tail feathers, was probably the representation of the Quetzal, the sacred bird of the Quichés, and thus it may be assumed that the temple in which this tablet formed the centre of the altar-piece, was dedicated to the worship of the god Quetzalcoatl. But, judging by the peculiarities of the dress worn by the principal worshipper, I formed the opinion that he was not, as has previously been supposed, a priest offering sacrifice. The worshippers and the offerings have, I believe, other significations.[81]

The temple, placed upon the top of the mound, must have been—when it was externally perfect—a graceful and well proportioned shrine; but when I saw it, the outer walls were so enveloped in brushwood and enclosed by trees, that it was not practicable to do more than obtain a conception of its proportions. After having measured the length, breadth and height, and made a ground plan, I examined the interior. A corridor ran along the front; within was the chamber which had contained the inscribed stone slabs which formed the back of the altar, in the centre of which had been the figure of the cross. This, and the right and left hand tablets, had been all closely joined together so as to form one subject,[82] the meaning of which was probably explained by the hieroglyphic characters. The right hand tablet, which had been removed, I had already seen at the museum in Washington.

After leaving this sanctuary, we descended the southern slope until we reached the base, and then began to ascend the adjoining mound, on whose summit was another temple. Thus we proceeded until we reached a singular little structure which has been considered to be exceptional, from the fact that the figure upon the altar had been placed upon a base supported by what are supposed to have been two tigers. I could only trace the remains of the feet, as everything within and without the temple was in ruins. Following the direction of the quadrangular precincts, we finally crossed over an unusually lofty mound, and then arrived at the back or western face of the monastery.

We had completed a slight survey of the mounds and temples on the sides of the inclosure, having passed successively over them and examined the altars, as far as their more or less ruined state permitted. These all varied in their dimensions, but they were evidently built for analagous purposes as shrines for the worship of the Indian gods.[83] There was, however, one important exception which requires to be noticed.

At the south-west angle of the monastery—and connected with it in such a manner that it seems to have been an adjunct to the main building—are the ruins of a structure which has been considered to have been a temple, but which, I think, served for a different purpose. It stands upon a mound about forty-five feet high. Its frontage was found to be longer than that of any of the other temples. In the interior there was no altar, but the upright slabs of stone placed upon the inner wall were covered with hieroglyphs. When the Indians, who accompanied Mr. Stephens, saw these groups of characters they declared that the building was an escuela or schoolhouse. Other opinions were also given, but the subject has not received any investigation. I think it is probable that the opinion of the Indians was correct, and that it was here that the boys were taught the meaning of the hieroglyphic symbols, and were thus able to read and interpret the signs placed upon the idols and altars.

In the afternoon we re-entered the monastery. We had been for nearly seven hours occupied in crossing over the mounds and clearing a path through the forest, and yet at no time did I estimate that we were more than five hundred yards from our starting point. At the end of this part of the day’s work, I found that I was able to establish some deductions respecting the positions and heights of the raised platforms and the character of the stone edifices.

It may be concluded that Palenque consists of a group of mounds having buildings upon them exclusively devoted to the purposes of religion. In the year 1840, five of the mounds had temples upon their summits which were in a fair state of preservation. The survey of Captain Antonio Del Rio was made in the year 1787, and, as he was an officer of the Artillery, his Report, with respect to the general plan, and the bearings and distances of the mounds then remaining, may be accepted as being correct. He states that he visited the ruins called Casas de Piedras (stone houses) on the 5th of May, and finding that nothing could be distinctly made out in consequence of the forest, he engaged a large number of Indians from Tumbalá, who felled the trees and afterwards cleared the ground by fire, thus opening up a sufficient space to enable him to observe the true positions of the mounds and buildings. He found that they were all contained within a rectangular area, four hundred and fifty yards long and three hundred yards wide. In the centre was the mound upon which stood the largest structure. This was surrounded by other edifices, “namely: five to the northward, four to the southward, one to the south-west, and three to the eastward.”

Thus it appears that in 1787 there were thirteen mounds with buildings upon their summits, besides the large platform earthwork upon which was placed the “Palace.” In 1806, nearly twenty years afterwards, the Spanish Government ordered another survey to be made. The expedition was placed under the orders of Captain Dupaix, who had served as an officer in the Dragoons. He reported that, at that time, eleven temples were still standing. Thirty-four years later, Mr. Stephens could only discover five temples not utterly ruined. It is strange that in these short intervals of time, such changes should have happened amongst monuments of this nature. With regard to this subject, it is of consequence to notice the statements given by the local authorities who made the original discoveries which led to the survey of Del Rio. The explorations were conducted, under the orders of the Spanish authorities at Guatemala, by one of the principal inhabitants of the village of San Domingo, named Calderon, aided by the Government architect, Bernasconi. In their Report, which was made only three years before that of Del Rio, they declared that there were evidences of the ruins of numerous houses occupying a large space of land to the west of the temples. Nothing was known by my Indians upon this subject. It should, however, be observed, with respect to undiscovered ruins, that any rumours relating to what may, or may not, exist in the heart of a tropical forest, must necessarily be doubtful, for where nothing can be seen, except what may happen to be found in the direction of the path, much must be unknown.

On the slopes of the ground in front of one of the temples I saw a large and rudely carved statue, which in consequence of its form and manner of sculpture is of much importance. There is reason to believe that it was intended to represent Quetzalcoatl, an Indian god, a mythical or real personage, who, for many reasons connected with Palenque, requires to have an especial consideration given to him. It is a distinctive characteristic of this statue, that the features are essentially different from those of the Indians whose figures are to be seen upon the altars of the temples and within the courts and corridors of the monastery. These have receding foreheads and sharply defined prominent faces, quite unlike the present races in Central America, but in a marked degree resembling the tribes of the North American Indians, who had the custom of flattening the heads of their children.

The statue by my measurement, was a few inches more than eight feet in height, exclusive of the lower part of the stone, which tapered off in such a manner as to show that it had been originally placed upright and fixed in the ground. The feet stood on a base upon which was carved the hieroglyph which probably denoted the name. The forehead was low and straight. The face was completely different in type and expression, from that of any known race of Indians. The head was surmounted by a kind of high tiara. The left hand held in front of the figure a small head, in the same position as in the little figure at Ocosingo.

As, after completing the circuit of the mounds, there were still a few hours at my disposal before leaving Palenque so as to reach the village before nightfall, I decided to devote the time to the investigation of certain problems regarding the age and construction of the buildings. But in the first place, attention should be directed to the manner in which the open courts within the monastery are disposed, and access is obtained to the rooms beneath the corridors. Commencing from the east front, there are two ranges of corridors which are separated throughout their whole length by a strong wall, which receives the thrust of the two inner slopes supporting the roof. There is only one entrance or means of communication between them in the existing northern portion of the ruins. The interior width of each of these galleries is about seven feet four inches. After passing across them, the principal court is reached and the floor of the open space is seen ten feet below. A wide flight of large and well hewn stone steps leads down to the bottom, which appears to have been paved with several layers of cement. This court is twenty-eight paces wide. The rooms are entered through doorways in the sides of the inclosing walls. Opposite to the first flight of steps there are similar steps leading to a second series of corridors. Passing through these, another court is reached, and beyond is the outer gallery which runs along the western side of the building. The total width of this cross section of the monastery is approximately one hundred and seventy-six feet.

When wandering amongst these courts, and looking at the vestiges of an unknown state of civilisation, I endeavoured to form conclusions with regard to the purpose and antiquity of all that was seen. The problem is difficult to solve. It has been surmised that the temples of Palenque were erected during a period not exceeding four centuries before the Spanish conquest. This opinion was based upon what has been observed with respect to the condition of the ruins, and the freshness of portions of the colouring of the stucco. This method of estimating comparative antiquity presents some local difficulties.

The square tower was originally faced with thick cement, and then covered with washes of colour, in the same manner as the walls of the Teocallis in the Quiché city of Utatlan upon which the faded colours are still visible. If the existing outer coating was the only one that had been given it would be reasonable to infer that the age of the tower was not great. But it happens that in those places where portions of the stucco have fallen, there have been numerous applications of colour, and therefore admitting that the latest may look bright and fresh, it is not possible to estimate the periods that may have elapsed between the dates of successive layers. Although I was at first inclined to think that the building could not be ancient, yet a more careful examination left the subject indeterminate. Any conclusions which may have been thought probable on account of the state of the walls and roofs are equally uncertain. With regard to this matter it is necessary to take into consideration certain existing conditions.

Immediately behind the ruins are the slopes of the sierras which I traversed on the way from Tumbalá. They are covered with loose fragments of the limestones of which they are formed. These were the building materials used by the architects of the temples. Their small size and flat surface were suitable for the purpose, when combined with mortar, the mixing of which the Indians well understood. The walls of the monastery were made with layers of these flat stones bound together with quantities of this mortar. The outer faces were carefully arranged to receive a thick casing of cement, which was so hard and sound, that it is evident the builders must have had an accurate knowledge of the best proportions of the substances required for its composition. The cement had a smooth surface and in several places it was still perfect. The colours laid upon it are red, blue, yellow and white. They appear to have been made more or less vivid and varied in accordance with what was thought necessary to obtain good contrasts. The stucco figures and scrolls were skilfully designed, and were coloured in a manner which was harmonious and effective. The sound state of the cement where it is sheltered from the action of the rain is extraordinary. It is strange that in this tropical climate where, for half the year there are continuous and heavy rainfalls, the variations from the damp, close atmosphere in the summer to the dry season of winter should not have had a more destructive influence upon buildings, mainly composed of rubble and mortar.

In one instance, that of the tower, the astonishing growth of tropical vegetation has had the effect of preventing its fall. Thick creepers have wound themselves like strong ropes around the walls and bound them firmly together. The walls at the corners of the entrances to the courts were remarkably uninjured. The cement was intact, and this, even in positions where it might have been expected that, in a long course of time, in consequence of being partly exposed and partly sheltered, it would have broken away and fallen.

It would be justifiable to conclude from these evidences of stability that the buildings are comparatively modern. But there is a difficulty with regard to this assumption which has to be considered. In the year 1525, when Cortes on his march from Mexico to Honduras passed with his expeditionary forces within a few leagues of this place, the temples had been already abandoned. Consequently not less than four centuries must have now elapsed since Palenque was deserted. If then, within the tropics, buildings made of such perishable materials have remained for that long period in a fair state of preservation, it may be inferred that there are some local circumstances which have caused an exceptional power of resistance to the disintegrating action of the climate. The forest may have afforded some protection, and therefore the age of the monastery may be greater than might be estimated from the condition of the ruins.

There are, however, other facts which are opposed to any theories of great antiquity. The Indians had cleared, for my inspection, the stone steps leading from the western side of the principal court. Upon these were carved groups of hieroglyphs which were in an almost perfect state. The edges of the steps were unworn. It was therefore made evident that in an open court, completely exposed to the weather and the influence of the tropical rains, inscriptions graven upon the surface of these flat stone slabs had remained uninjured.

After looking at the sculptures, and the coloured stucco figures which adorned the piers and inner walls, I endeavoured to establish some standard of comparison by which I might be able to form well-founded conjectures regarding their age. I thought of various ruins in Egypt and Asia Minor, then of those belonging to later periods in Italy and Great Britain, but there were such essential differences in the materials used, and the influences of the atmosphere, that it was not possible to establish any assured conclusions. Opinions formed upon the results of an examination of the temples on the mounds would be equally unsatisfactory, for some of them, especially in their interiors, were in a comparatively good condition, others were in ruins. But, there are proofs of a moderate antiquity. The lintels that once supported the walls over the doorways and other openings have completely disappeared. In only one instance, which came under my notice, were there any signs of the thick, hard beams of zapote wood which had been employed for that purpose. A broad lintel in the monastery had left its impress upon the under surface of the wall which had weighed downwards upon it. The marks of the fibre and the shape of the lintel were clearly defined upon the mortar. Dr. Coller found amongst the ruins a piece of this wood. It was exceedingly heavy and close-grained, and was of the nature of what is known, in the East Indies, by the name of iron wood. The zapote trees grow chiefly in the forests in the valley of the Usamacinta and towards the lake of Peten.

When the evening drew near, I called my Indians together and entered the forest on the way back to the village. As I rode slowly forward I felt that these mysterious ruins contained a secret which has yet to be unravelled. The priests of a powerful race, having strange and unknown forms of religion, had been for centuries worshipping at these shrines. Within the sanctuaries were graven upon tablets of stone those records which, when interpreted, may throw some light upon what is now obscure.[84]